A FREE PAPER MODEL TO DOWNLOAD AND CONSTRUCT A SCALE 1/250 Paddle Steam Ferry COMMODORE PERRY USS Commodore Perry was one of many ferries and other civilian craft that were converted to serve in the Union Navy. In late 161 it was rebuilt into a gunboat, carrying heavy cannons on the open decks. That armourplating had been added to the sides is evident from contemporary photographs. In this model the ship appears like it did in164, assigned to the squadron that watched the James River. A spar torpedo points from the bow. In the Library of Congress digital collection another ferry carries the same name. Did the librarians mix them up, or was there actually two ships carrying the same name? Perhaps this one is the misnamed? 30 Walking beam Commodore Matthew Perry, 194-15, sailed a powerful squadron to Japan, bullying it to accept the treaty of Kanawaga, ending a longtime isolation. Nameing a gunboat "Perry" made use of his popularity in the USA.
THE SYMBOLS B Mountainfold 33 Number of parts Part to be rolled Valleyfold 3 Location of parts Optional part Towards the bow Double and cut out Space to remove AN AUTHENTIC PHOTOGRAPH OF THE SHIP The USS Commodore Perry was built a civilan ship, a New York paddle steam ferry, by Stack and Joyce of Wiliamsburg, but was to serve almost the entire war. Ferryboats did hardly have a naval look, but was a preferred vessel due to the open and stable decks that could carry heavy guns. The Commodore Perry was much used in battle during the conflict, taking part in a large number of operations along the western seaboard of the Confederacy. In 164, until the end of the war Commodore Perry patrolled James River, during this period the photograph to the left was taken. Many of the small parts of this model reproduce the details in this, image, like the chicken cages kept on upper deck. The ship had a length of 143 ft, a beam of 33 ft and carried 4-5 heavy guns and a howitzer. NUMBERS AND NAMES OF THE PARTS 1 Hull base 2 Hull spine 3-14 Hull formers 15 Foredeck 16 Aft deck 1 Hatches 1 Round shots 19 Deckshouse sidings 20 Hull 21 Deckhouse top 22 Paddlebox, portside 23 Paddlebox, starboard 24 Funnel 25 Steampipes 26 Pilothouse, fore 2 Pilothouse aft 2 Lantern 29 Galley chimney 30 Storage 31 Ladders 32 Bollards 33 Paddle wheels 34 Bulwarks, foredeck 35 Bulwarks, aft 36 Lining of ship s sides 3 Walking beam 3 Main supporting beam, fore 39 Main supporting beam, aft 40 Fore mast 41 Main mast 42 Flag poles 43 Rolled up awnings 44 Torpedo 45 Derric 46 Anchors and chains 4 9" guns 4 Mobile howitzer 49 Davits 50 Ship s boats 51 Chicken cage 52 Buckets 53 Crew 54 Captain 55 Flags 56 Coils of rope THE FRAME OF THE MODEL 13a-b 6a-b 3 4 14a-b 1 2 5
HOW TO BUILD THIS PAPER MODEL C The tools needed for papermodeling are simple: a scissor for cutting, a scalpel for small details, ruler and a pointed object, perhaps a nail to score pieces that are to be folded. A tweezer will be useful. White glue is recommended, leaving no spots, however a non-waterbased product is to be preferred when glueing the spine of the ship, since water may cause warping. All parts that are to be cylindric, masts, vents or gun pipes, should first be softned by careful and repeated rolling, otherwise the paper will crack. When building this model, always follow the numbers of the parts and glue them in that order. Start with the base and spine of the ship. Let the construction dry to gain some strength before continuing with the main deck. Some parts are to be doubled, score them, glue and fold into one piece. 30 a b 24 c c 42 41 40 44c e i 35 43 4 31 2 24 20 49 51 3 3 29 26 34 45 46 44b 44a 1 1 1c 4 25a 25b 30 32 46b INSTRUCTIONS Assemble the frame of the ship (2-14) on top of base (1) and let the glue set. The inked parts (6a, 9a) are to face outwards. Add the decks (15, 16) to the frame and take care to curve softly both parts before assembly. Mount the cargo hatches fore and aft (1), then add the loose covers (1c) and the shot racks (1). The sides of the deckhouse are made up of part 19a-d, carefully aligne it with the formers on each side (13a-b and 14a-b). The hull (20) is in one piece and should be carefully formed before being glued to the frame of the ship. The top of the deckhouse (21) also takes careful rounding before adding it to the frame. The paddle box top comes next (22-23). Funnel with steampipes (24-25) is the followed by the pilot houses (26-2). When mounting the bulwarks (34-35), check the symmetry of the hull. On the cover is a photograph that shows the assembly. Finally add the piece (3) that runs along the side from for to aft.the walking beam (30) is made up of many small parts, so study the drawings. The four supporting beams (3-39) also takes some extra care to get straight, in the right angle and well fixed. Now the ship is almost ready for action, after adding the guns ofcourse. The ship s boats may be omitted, they are seldom present in contemporary photographs.
10 2a 1 1 2b 2c 13a 13b 2b-c 12 11 10 9 6 5 4 3 4 5 6ab 9ab 10 11 11 1 1 3 1 1 4 15 16 5 9b 9a 12 6b 14a 14b 6a 33a 33b 9c
23a 23b 23 20 21a 2 24b 24a 21b 1a 1b 24d 21a 21b 25a 25b 26a 26b 21c 19 1c 24 23c 22b 22c 22a 22e 23d 22d 22f 20b 43 1a 1b 1b 1d 21d 19b
3a 3b 30a 30c 30b 3 39b 30d 30e 30f 30g 39a 30h 44a 40 41 42 43 4b 4c 43 44b 44c 51 52 55 4a 46b 46a 45 4a 4b 4c 53 54 49 56