Haunted Walls. This dramatic area has several powerful lines on Perfect rock. As its name implies it does have a haunted and magical feel to it, so silent and peaceful. On first sight it is jaw dropping. Approach to Pleasure Domes, Haunted Walls and Ajuga Pilar ( Cynical Pinnacle). From the A7, either approaching from Calpe or Alicante, exit on junction 65 (Benidorm) and head toward Alicante on the N332. Take the first junction towards Callosa de en Serria. and La Nucia. (CV70). Travel along this road passing three roundabouts. This third roundabout leads off left up to Finestrat. Continue straight on passing further roundabouts. Take the third exit onto the CV70 towards Guadalest. Go straight on at every roundabout (5). From the last one, where the road sign says right to Polop/ Callosa, (the road up left goes up the hill to Echoes) travel approximately 5-6 km, passing some restaurants on the right, until the first road on the left; with a large house by the junction. To reach Guadalest continue straight on. Travel this minor road for 200m and take the first left. Continue along this, it eventually becomes a rough track which is easy to drive on, until it becomes steep. Stop well before this and park in one of the lay-bys marked with a cairn. Note sometimes it is impossible to drive all the way up to the Col but one can never tell if the road has been repaired after storms, it may be best to leave ones car at the base of the hill, unless you have a 4x4. A short walk from the lower car park, up hill, of about 15min reaches the col and the Pleasure Domes are immediately on your left. Approach from Sella An approach from Sella can be made but again one never knows what state the track will be in. If repaired it is easy, if not, you would have difficulty. As you reach the refuge at the Sella climbing area, continue straight on and follow the rough track until it reaches the steep hilly section, about 4km from the refuge. If you are not attempting to drive up the hill then park here to reach the Domes. This walk is a little longer than the other approach, about 20 mins of easy uphill walking. The Pleasure Domes. These are the crags immediately above the Col. The First obvious face with its superb cracks is The Temple of Doom (B on the Pleasure domes topo).
To reach Haunted Wall. You now have to pick your way across the hillside along faintly defined goat and boar tracks. (this may be marked in Red). Traverse the hillside, it is quite prickly so long trousers are advised. You will see the whole of Pleasure Domes high up on your left. The last main feature will be the The Coliseum amphitheatre. Go up the incline and descend the other side to a wide col. Haunted Walls is now very obvious on your left with its impressive cracks and grooves. To reach Ajuga Pilar and Cynical Pinnacle. Continue to contour the hillside towards the next small col. The small peak on your left is the actual summit of Ajuga Pilar. You descend from this after the climbs. Once at the col the rock face will make its presence known. Like Haunted it s a very impressive sight..descents from Haunted Wall. One can abseil back down all the routes but most will find that it is far simpler, and quicker, to scramble and walk off the summit. Descend of the summit and scramble down the back of the mountain towards the Col, or to retrieve your sacks from the base of the wall; follow the tracks left as for the original approach. The first route on the left of the wall is:- 1.The Spectre. 65m E1. 5b. (6a) F/A. R Edwards M Edwards. March 1997. A very strong line but not having had many ascents it does have some loose rock and vegetation. 1. 25m. 4c.(5+). Climb the steep wall then move right and up to a belay on threads below the steep groove. 2. 45m. 5b. (6a). Climb the steep dihedral (some loose rock) to the top of the pinnacle. Belay bolts. 2. Cracks of Tranquility. 175m. E2/3. 5c. (6b). *** F/A. R Edwards. M. Bonesteel. E Carera. 15 th March 1997. F/A 2a. M Edwards R Edwards April 2004 One of the best climbs on the wall and well worth the visit to this fantastic crag. The route climbs the third crack from the right. 1. 27m. 5b. (6a+). Climb the steep crack to the belay on the right. Bolts. 2. 27m. 5b. (6a). Climb the overhanging crack on the left then traverse right to a small tree. Move back left to climb the crack and then the short wall on the left to a good ledge and belays. Bolts. 3. 20m. 4c. (V). Traverse left to a large block and then up to a thread on a slab. Move left onto the small pillar and up this to a good ledge and belays. Bolts. 4. 45m. 5c.(6b). A great pitch. Climb onto the opposite wall and follow the faint crack which gradually gets wider to a full handwidth. Pull directly over the overhang to a good ledge and belays. 5. 15m Diff. (3). Scramble over the pinnacle to the next arête. 6. 40m. 4c. (V). Poorly protected. Climb the centre of the arête to the top of the crag. 2a. 40m. 5a.(V+) Climb the steep crack on the left of the arête to join the original higher up.
. 3. Exorcist. 180m. E4. 6a.(AO 5b) ( 6c, AO. 6a+ ). *** F/A. R Edward. M Edwards. January 1996. A very strong line which follows the second crack line from the right. protection. There is a distinctive overhang about one third height. Excellent rock and Start. Well left of the second crack and on a series of ledges. 1. 25m. 5b.(6a). Climb across the ledges to below and to the right of the crack to reach a bolt. Move up right into a groove. Climb the groove (Bolt), at its top move right into the main groove. Follow this to belay bolts below the overhang. 2. 35m. 5c. (6a+). A superb pitch. Large cams or hexes are useful. Climb to roof then traverse the roof to a vertical crack. Follow this to a large ledge and belays bolts. 3. 25m. 6a. AO 5b. ( 6c. AO 5b). Climb the crack on the right of the belay to the roof. Climb this on its right hand side, 2 bolts, then a thin crack. Continue up after the difficult mantelshelf to reach a bolt belay below trees. 4. 20m.Scramble up to the trees and then over a small pinnacle on the right. Traverse right through a small forest. Cross this down into a wide gully to the base of a superb arête (Phantom Arete). 5. 20m 4c (V). Small wires and cams. Climb the arête to the first staple and then traverse left (Staple) to a belay ledge. Bolts belay. 6. 25m. 5c. (6a+). Climb the shallow corner to the small roof and move left over this. Continue up the steep crack to a good ledge and bolt belays. 7. 30m. 5a (V+). Climb the wall above (bolt) and continue straight up to the trees at the top of the crag. 4. The Phantom. 181m. E3. 5c. (6b). F/A. R Edwards M Edwards. 5-June 1996 Superb climbing up the extreme right hand vertical crack on perfect rock. Start at the right hand side of the face below a small cave at the base of the right hand crack. until a step left brings you to the base of the main vertical crack. Climb this passing a number of threads to good bolt belays. 1a.28m, 5c. (6a+). Climb the loose but easy rock to the foot of the whitish coloured wall. (Bolt). Climb the wall by a faint crack ( Bolt) to good holds which ends on a steep slab. Go up this, then right into the big crack. Climb the crack, passing a number of good thread placements, to a ledge and bolt belay. 2. 30m. 6a. (6b). Continue climbing the crack and at the roof move onto the left wall. Climb direct and up to a thread. Continue to follow the crack to a good ledge and bolt belays. 3. 38m. 5b. ( 6a). Climb the steep wall left of the belay and then back right into the crack. Follow this to the second of two tree covered ledges. 4. 25m. Scramble through the trees to reach a bay on the far side and belay at the foot of the blunt arête. (Bolts).
5. 50m. 5c. (6a+).*** A superb pitch. Climb the blunt arête and follow the line on the arête to the first staple (a few small wires needed). Continue direct (further staples) heading for the groove on the left side of the arête. The final section is again protected by natural gear. Belay on two bolts on a good ledge on the left. 6.35m 4c. (V). Climb the wall just right of the belay and then up ledges to the summit. 5. The upper section of Nemisis on Cima Senyera. 280m. E1. 5b. (6a). F/A. 1-5. R Edwards Esther Edwards February 1996. Whole route. R Edwards. M Esslinger 18 November 1999..
Rowland Edwards leading 4 th pitch Cracks of Tranquility