International standardization Normalisation internationale. Montpellier 23 juin - 4 juillet 2008 Gourlot J.-P.

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International standardization Normalisation internationale Montpellier 23 juin - 4 juillet 2008 Gourlot J.-P.

Plan of presentation Plan de présentation Introduction Existing standards Calibration Drift and use Working groups Introduction Standards existants Etalonnage Dérive et utilisation Groupes de travail

Normalization steps Etape de normalisation 1923 Universal Standards : Grade, Pulling ; Transactions. 1986 HVI Calibration Cotton ; Transactions, USA. Time 1940-1950 International Calibration Cotton Standards (ICCS) ; Research + Transactions. 1995/1998 - ICCS restricted for research ; - HVI Calibration Cotton Transactions, world. Based on so-call reference methods

Expected precision for the market Précision attendue sur le marché Confidence interval IM (+/-) 0.1 unit Length (+/-) 0.02 inch (+/-) 0.51 mm Length uniformity (+/-) 1.5 % Strength (+/-) 1.5 cn/tex Rd % (+/-) 1 % +b (+/-) 0.5 Trash (+/-) 0.1 % From Sasser, 1992.

Plan of presentation Plan de présentation Introduction Existing standards Calibration Drift and use Working groups Introduction Standards existants Etalonnage Dérive et utilisation Groupes de travail

Reference cotton use in the world: 1991 Utilisation de cotons de référence : 1991 Who No HVI Consumption HVICC Ratio ICCS Ratio kg kg/hvi kg kg/hvi USDA 212 19214 91 3023 14.2 USA except USDA 91 828 9 49 0.5 Outside USA 318 192 0.6 1.8 0.004 Total 621

Reference cotton use in the world: 1994 Utilisation de cotons de référence : 1994 Who No HVI Consumption HVICC Ratio ICCS Ratio kg kg/hvi kg kg/hvi USDA x 14145? 6803? -21% +125% USA except USDA x 766? 127? - 7% +159% Outside USA x 245? 42? +27% +2200% Total 883 +42%

Existing reference cottons after 1998 Cotons de référence existants après 1998 ICCS ICCS Mike only HVICC * Stelometer HVI HVI * Carded cotton Raw cotton Raw cotton * 3 types 6 types 2* 2 types * Measurement of T1 Mike Length (UHM) E1 UI% (1 type with SL%) Strength

7.0 Mike 6.0 5.0 4.0 3.0 2.0 1.0 6 - International normalisation of the measurements 2.8 2.5 ICCS Mike only standards 3.7 3.4 4.2 3.7 Gm Cm Dm Bm Im Am Cotton types 35 Percentage % 30 25 20 15 10 5 4.6 4.4 5.2 4.8 Upper Half Mean Length Histogram 2356 Cottons from different origins 0 20 25 30 35 40 Upper Half Mean Length in mm Length Maxi HVICC/Length Mini HVICC Tested cottons 5.6 5.3 1.60 Inches 1.40 1.20 1.00 0.80 0.60 0.40 40 Percentage % 30 20 10 6 - International normalisation of the measurements 0.70 0.80 0.60 0.60 Length of ICCS standards 1.00 1.05 0.90 0.90 0.88 1.10 1.10 1.10 Strength Histogram 2356 Cottons from different origins 0 15 19 23 27 31 35 39 43 Strength in g/tex St Maxi HVICC/St Mini HVICC 1.00 1.00 1.25 1.15 Tested cottons 1.35 1.25 K F H G B A I C D E Cotton types 1.40 1.20

Existing reference cottons after 1998 Cotons de référence existants après 1998

Existing reference cottons after 1998 Cotons de référence existants après 1998

Plan of presentation Plan de présentation Introduction Existing standards Calibration Drift and use Working groups Introduction Standards existants Etalonnage Dérive et utilisation Groupes de travail

HVI modules calibration: IM Etalonnage d une CMI : IM Observed values 5.5 5 4.5 4 3.5 3 Calibration = change slope and offset between observed vs theorical values Theo. Obs. 2.5 2.5 3 3.5 4 4.5 5 5.5 Theorical values

Plan of presentation Plan de présentation Introduction Existing standards Calibration Drift and use Working groups Introduction Standards existants Etalonnage Dérive et utilisation Groupes de travail

About reference values establishement A propos de la création de standards Question : is there any drift in the establishment of Calibration Cotton reference data? A set of calibration cotton = at least 2 cottons These can also be analyzed as samples Calibration Samples Issue/Date Set 1 Set 1, 2, 3, 1 Set 2 Set 1, 2, 3, 2 Set 3 Set 1, 2, 3, 3

About reference values establishement A propos de la création de standards Question : is there any drift in the establishment of Calibration Cotton reference data? A set of calibration cotton = at least 2 cottons These can also be analyzed as samples Calibration Samples Issue/Date Set 1 Set 1, 2, 3, 1 Set 2 Set 1, 2, 3, 2 Set 3 Set 1, 2, 3, 3 Comparison between results => drift?

Preliminary experiment Expérience préliminaire 112 110 108 106 104 102 ICCS HVICC(1) HVICC(2) Slope 0.48 cn/tex / year Slope 0.68 cn/tex / year 100 Slope 0.11 cn/tex / year 98 1981 1983 1985 1987 1989 1991 1993 1995 1997

Drift and other troubles Dérive et autres problèmes Observed Drift

Drift and other troubles Dérive et autres problèmes Observed Drift 100 Consumption in 1991 80 kg 60 40 20 0 HVICC ICCS USDA USA (not USDA) Other

Drift and other troubles Dérive et autres problèmes Observed Drift + Delay to access to recent generations of reference cottons => Differential in reading levels

Drift and other troubles Dérive et autres problèmes Observed Drift + Delay to access to recent generations of reference cottons => Differential in reading levels Relations between yarn versus fiber quality 900 700 500 300 Breaking force (cn) RS 20 tex r = 0,96 OE 20 tex r = 0,96 RS 27 tex r = 0,97 OE 27 tex r = 0,98 RS 37 tex r = 0,97 OE 37 tex r = 0,98 100 20 25 30 35 40 45 50 HVI strength (cn/tex)

Drift and other troubles Dérive et autres problèmes Observed Drift + Delay to access to recent generations of reference cottons => Differential in reading levels => Lower accuracy in the yarn quality prediction from fiber quality measurement

Drift and other troubles Dérive et autres problèmes Observed Drift + Delay to access to recent generations of reference cottons => Differential in reading levels => Lower accuracy in the yarn quality prediction from fiber quality measurement => Use / consume reference materials!!!!

Plan of presentation Plan de présentation Introduction Existing standards Calibration Drift and use Working groups Introduction Standards existants Etalonnage Dérive et utilisation Groupes de travail

Working groups Groupes de travail CSITC International Textile Manufacturers Federation WG Spinning Committee Length HVI Dust and trash Fineness and maturity Color Stickiness Normalization CSITC International Textile Manufacturers Federation WG Filature Longueur HVI Poussière et déchets Finesse et maturité Couleur Collage Normalisation