Singapore National Climbing Standards SPORT CLIMBING COURSE LEVEL 2 KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077 1
Passing Standards 1. Confident with lead climbing on an easy route 2. Correct placement of protection points on a lead climb 3. Correct belaying of a lead climber using a friction device 4. Correct top out technique on fixed anchor 5. Conduct proper pre-climb checks 6. Correct use of climbing calls 7. Safe equipment handling KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077 2
Lead climbing vs Top roping KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077 3
Fall factor KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077 4
Ropes Static rope Stretch less than 5% Dynamic rope 30-40% dynamic stretch during a fall KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077 5
Protections Devices employed to reduce risk of climber falling to the ground 1. Quick draws 2. Runners Quickdraws Runners KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077 6
Quickdraws set up Quickdraws have a bolt-end and rope-end Rope-end has a bent or wire gate with a rubber keeper around the carabiner to limit movement Both bolt-end and rope-end carabiners must be facing the same direction Choose different colour carabiners for each end for easy differentiation KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077 7
Quickdraws set up Always use a quickdraw equipped with STRING type webbing protection The anchor-end carabiner must be mobile (no keeper). The rope-end carabiner must be fixed (with keeper). Warning: never install two keepers on one quickdraw. KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077 8
Quickdraws set up Bolt-end Rope-end KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077 9
Wall bolt Bolts are normally placed on the route at 1 to 2 meters apart KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077 10
Clipping into protection KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077 11
Clipping into protection Back clipping KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077 12
Direction of clipping Carabiner gate must always face away from the climber's direction of travel The rope in the carabiner must pass through it from the cliff side to the outside Incorrect positioning of the quickdraw or the rope could cause the rope to unclip KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077 13
Clipping into protection Z-clipping Climber grabs the rope from below the last clipped bolt and then clips it through a higher bolt creating a Z- shape Climber will not be able to move up due to rope drag Climber will take a bigger fall as he is not protected by the last quick draw Solution Undo Z-clip by unclipping the rope from the lower draw KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077 14
Leg position when leading Do not place your leg behind the rope KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077 15
Top out technique 1 KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077 16
Top out technique 2 KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077 17
Lead belay How to lead belay https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s_f1mfvgozk KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077 18
Lead fall How to lead fall https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjz8oxyp5t4 KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077 19
Pre-climb checks 1. Know the length of the route Rope must be at lease twice the length of the route 60m to 70m rope are the most common 2. Check the number of bolts on the route 3. Bring sufficient quickdraws for the route with at lease 1 extra 4. Climber to bring along a safety sling and 2 carabiner (to set up top rope) 5. Run the entire rope through your hand to check for damage and remove rope kinks 6. Buddy checks on figure of 8 knot and fiction device carabiner is locked KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077 20
Lead climbing commands Climber Belayer Calls Actions Calls Actions On rope (Climber tied on to rope) Climb when ready Climbing (Climber ready to climb) Climb on (Belayer acknowledge) Clipping (Clipping into the first draw) Clipped (Clipped into first draw) On Belay Watch me (May fall on the next move) Watching (Prepare to catch fall) Tight / Take (Climber need to rest) Tight (Belayer take in till tight) Safe (When climber clip in his safety) Slack (Climber needs slack to top out) Slack (Give slack to climber) Off belay (Climber is safe wants to be off belay) Off Belay (Go off belay) KONG YONG EN - LICENSE NO. 9077 21