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2 The type of terrain: flat and rough-terrain ASSEMBLING YOUR BICYCLE 1. Gears 2. Rear Brake 3. Rear Reflector 4. Seat Post 5. Saddle 6. Front Brake Lever 7. Gear Selector 8. Handle Bars 9. Bell 10. Rear Brake Lever 11. Front Reflector 12. Front Brake 13. Frame 14. Left Crank 15. Left Pedal 16. Right Pedal 17. Right Crank 18. Chain 19. Tyre 20. Front Wheel Protector 1 2 3 4 5 6 9 7 10 13 8 11 15 19 18 16 17 14 12 20 Tool Kit Multi-sized Spanner Hexagonal Key CAREFULLY UNPACK AND TAKE CARE WHEN REMOVING THE WHEEL FROM THE CRANK AS IT MAY DAMAGE THE SPOKES
3 1.PREPARING YOUR BICYCLE FOR ASSEMBLY Rear Wheel Fork Fork Brace Ensuring that the fork is facing away from the rear wheel, rest your bicycle on the rear wheel and fork brace, in the upright position.
4 2. ATTACHING THE HANDLE BARS 1 2 4 3 Expander Bolt 1. Wedge Nut 2. Head Tube 3. Handle Bar Column 4. Handle Bar Stem Ensuring that the brake cables do not tangle, gently lower the handle bars into the handle bar column.
5 Handle bar Hexagonal Key Using the hexagonal key, secure the handle bars into place.
6 3. ATTACHING THE SADDLE Saddle Nut Spanner Seat Post If not already attached, firmly push the narrow end of the seat post into the hole on the underside of the saddle, and tighten using the spanner. Saddle Seat Post Quick Release Lever Lower the seat post into the frame, and secure using the quick release lever. Note: the minimum insertion mark must not be visible.
7 4. ATTACHING THE FRONT WHEEL Fork Brace Fork Position your bicycle as illustrated and remove the fork brace. Front Brake Blocks Nut Using the spanner, loosen the nut on the front brake to allow enough room between the brake pads for the front wheel to slide between.
8 Remove the front wheel protectors from both ends of the axle, then remove the axle nuts and tab washers from the wheel, and firmly insert the wheel between the fork so that it rests securely in place. Replace the tab washers and axle nuts and fasten securely ensuring that the tab washers locate into the holes provided. Fork Tab Washer Quick release Using the spanner, re-tighten the nut on the front brake to secure the front brake cable. Brake pads should be between 1.5 2.0mm away from rim.
9 5. ATTACHING THE PEDALS The pedals and cranks are labelled L for left, and R for right (riding position) WARNING: Attempting to attach the wrong pedal will result in damaging the thread. Ensuring that you are inserting the pedal into the correct side. First stand your bicycle in the upright, then screw each pedal by hand into cranks and tighten using the spanner. REMEMBER that the left pedal should be fitted anti-clockwise while the right pedal should be fitted clockwise.
10 6. CHECKING AND ADJUSTING YOUR BICYCLE Keeping your bicycle in the upright position; stand with a leg either side of the front wheel, holding the wheel firmly in position. Loosen the handle bars using the hexagonal key, and adjust to the right height and position for use. Note: the minimum insertion mark must not be visible. The mid-section of the handle bars must be aligned with the front wheel. Tighten into place. Sit on your bicycle to gauge a suitable riding position. The ideal height will allow your
11 toes to touch the ground comfortably. To adjust the position of the saddle, loosen the quick release lever on the main unit situated at the bottom of the seat post and adjust and tighten. Note: the minimum insertion mark must not be visible. Before riding your bicycle for the first time, ensure that your brakes work. Gently roll your bicycle backwards and forwards and test that each brake works individually. When you sit on your bicycle with hands on the handlebar, your left brake lever operates the rear brake system, and your right brake lever operates the front brake system.
12 To obtain the best performance from your bicycle, check the tyre pressure by squeezing each tyre between your index and middle finger and thumb. The tyre should feel firm, if necessary pump air into it. Refer to the manufacturer s recommendation as shown on the tyre sidewall. To adjust rear suspension, change the length of the spring to loosen or tighten the suspension. There is no need to adjust the front suspension.
13 7. V-Style Brake Guide Instructions Manual Please follow the below step to adjust the brake system correctly..
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18 Comply with safety requirement 1. Learn local bicycle laws and regulations. Many communities have special regulations about licensing of bicycles, riding on sidewalks, laws regulating bike path and trail use, and so on. Many regions have helmet laws, child carrier laws and special bicycle traffic laws. In UK and in most foreign countries, a cyclist is required to obey the same traffic laws as the driver of a car or motorcycle. It is your responsibility to know and obey the laws. 2. You are sharing the road or the path with others motorists, pedestrians and other cyclists. Respect their rights, and be tolerant if they infringe on yours. 3. Ride defensively. Assume that the people with whom you are sharing the road are so absorbed with what they are doing and where they are going that they are oblivious to you. 4. Think ahead of where you re going, and be ready to avoid: Vehicles slowing or turning in front of you, entering the road or your lane ahead of your, or coming up behind you. Parked car with doors opening in front of you. Pedestrians stepping out in front of you. Children playing near the road. Pot holes, sewer grating, railroad tracks, expansion joints, road or sidewalk construction, debris and other obstructions that could cause you to swerve into traffic, catch your wheels or otherwise cause you to lose control and have and accident. The many other hazards and distractions which can occur on a bicycle ride. 5. Ride in designated bike lanes, on designated bikes paths or on the right side of the road, in the same direction as car traffic and as close to the edge of the road as possible. 6. Stop at stop signs and traffic lights, slow down and look both ways at street intersections. Remember that a bicycle always loses in a collision with a motor vehicle, so be prepared to yield even if you have the right of way. 7. Use hand signals for turning and stopping. Learn the local vehicle code for the correct signals. 8. Never ride with headphones. They mask traffic sounds and emergency vehicle sirens, distract you from concentration on what is going on around you, and their wires can tangle in the moving parts of the bicycle, causing you to lose control. 9. Never carry a passenger, unless it is a small child wearing an approved helmet and secured in a correctly mounted child carrier. 10. Never carry anything that obstructs your vision or your complete control of the bicycle, or could become entangled in the moving parts of the bicycles. 11. Never hitch a ride by holding on to another vehicle. 12. Do not do stunts, wheelies or jumps. They can cause you injury and damage your bike. 13. Do not weave through traffic or make any moves that may surprise people with whom
19 you are sharing the road. 14. Observe and yield the right of way. 15. Never ride your bicycle while under the influence of alcohol or drugs. 16. If possible, avoid riding in bad weather, when visibility is obscured, at dusk or in the dark, or when extremely tired. Each of these conditions increases the risk of accident. WARING: An approved bicycle helmet should be worn at all times. Failure to wear a helmet may result in serious personal injury to the rider. Reflectors: Reflectors are important safety devices which are designed to be an integral part of your bicycle. If this bicycle is to be used at night it is the owner s responsibility to ensure that it complies with the Highway Code by fitting a white light to the front and a red light to the rear of bicycle. Clean lenses and reflectors to ensure they are fully effective. WARNING: Do not remove the reflectors from your bicycle. They are an integral part of the bicycle s safety system. Removing the reflectors may reduce your visibility to others using the roadway. Being struck by other vehicles may result in serious injury or death. Keeping your bike in good order 1. Tire Always keep tires inflated according to the recommended pressure indicated on the side wall of the tire. Initially, the tire pressure should be checked with a gauge before the bike is ridden. Blowouts are a very great danger to the rider s safety. Take time and extra precaution in the maintenance and repair of your tires. 2. Brakes maintenance Have your brakes overhauled regularly (cleaning and lubricating the cables and the various pivot points). Adjust the control cables and the brake blocks accurately. The cable housing must never be damaged or cracked. Make sure mounting bolt or bolts are tight.
20 MECHANICAL MAINTENANCE: It is extremely important that your bike is checked and serviced at regular intervals to ensure its reliability and especially that it is safe to ride. Some servicing and repair tasks require specialised knowledge and tools. Improper adjustment may result in damage to the bike or may lead to a serious accident. If you have any doubts consult your cycle dealer. Cleaning and lubrication also forms an important tool in the proper maintenance of your bike and this is covered in more detail immediately after this section. The following checks are suggested: Before you ride check: When you are riding, please use a bicycle helmet for your safety. It is strongly advised to keep all reflectors on your bicycle for possible national legal requirements when you ride on the public road. Wheels are tightly secured. Tyres are inflated to correct pressure (indicated on side-wall of tyre). Also check condition of tyres for cuts etc. (Note: It is a good idea to carry a puncture repair kit or spare inner tube, tyre levers and pump with you). Handlebar, stem and headset locknut are tight and that the steering turns smoothly. Brakes Squeeze levers to ensure sufficient pressure can be applied without the lever touching the handlebars. Also ensure brake blocks are aligned correctly with rim and the blocks are not badly worn. Brake cables are not frayed at the end. Gears operate correctly and smoothly. Wheels are running true by spinning them. You can also check that mudguards, if fitted, are correctly adjusted at this time. The height of the seat could be adjusted from 780mm to 972mm.The vertical distance from the ground to the top of the seat surface, measured with the seat in a horizontal position and with the seat-pillar set to the minimum insertion depth. After long or hard rides or at least every month of regular use Check same points as above + the following: Clean, degrease and lubricate your bike. Crank, bottom bracket fittings and pedals are tight. Tyre wear and general condition for cuts, glass, thorns etc. Spokes are not loose or broken. These need to be attended to before the bike can be ridden again and you would probably need to get these repaired or replaced. Hubs are running smoothly. Tyres are free from imbedded objects such as thorns, glass or nails.
21 Every 12 months Before you start make sure your bike is thoroughly clean and degreased. Unless you have a good knowledge of bikes, we suggest that you take your bike to your local dealer for a full service. If this is not feasible we suggest you use the following checks: Replace the rim when the safe line indicator wears off. Frame and forks for any damage or cracks. Wheels are true. Replace or repair if necessary. Tyres for wear. Replace or repair if necessary. Brake tracks on rims are not badly worn. Also clean and degrease. Brake levers, brake adjusters + cable and nipple attached to levers are in good order. Any sign of wear on cable to nipple joint replace inner wire. Brakes Brake blocks replace if excessive wear is evident. Re-set brakes. Chain wheel teeth these wear, especially if it is an alloy chain wheel and the same chain wheel ring is used most of the time. Worn chain wheels can significantly affect gear changing. Chain for wear and stiff links, clean and re-grease chain or replace if necessary. Chain stretch with use and should be changed before causing excessive wear of the chain wheel or sprockets (approximately every 1500 2000 miles or every 2 years if riding approximately 25 miles per week) Cranks are attached securely Front shifter and rear derailleur for wear and especially check the rear derailleur in respect of straightness and the jockey wheel. Bottom bracket fittings for wear and disassemble and re-grease or replace if required. Headset moves smoothly by turning wheel. Also check side movement by applying the front brake and try rocking the bike. If any movement is found, the headset may need cleaning, adjusting and re-greasing or the bearing may need replacing or even a complete new headset may need fitting. If in doubt always consult a bike dealer or qualified mechanic. Adverse conditions! Wet or muddy conditions can reduce the effectiveness of your brakes and will increase the braking distance. So it s vital to control your speed under such conditions in order to prevent accident. Please note that these schedules are suggestions, frequent and heavy use of your bike such as off road riding will require more frequent maintenance. Remember good maintenance will prolong the life of your bike and components and ensure yours and other people s safety.
22 8. RECOMMENDED TIGHTENING OF FASTENERS 1). Handlebar: 200kgf.cm 2). Handlebar stem: 200kgf.cm 3). Saddle and pillar: 200kgf.cm 4). Wheel: 300kgf.cm 5). Quick release mechanism: 200kgf.cm 9. CORRECT ADJUSTMENT OF GEARS How to Adjust Your Front Derailleur? Use a 5mm Allen wrench and loosen the bolt holding the cable on the front derailleur. Push the old cable out and then thread the new cable through the shifter, through the stays and down into the derailleur It is recommended that if you are going through the effort to replace the cable you should replace the housing at the same time. Use good a cable cutter to ensure a clean cut of the housing, essential for optimal shifting. Before putting the cable in, adjust the low setting on the derailleur: With no cable, shift the chain to the biggest cog and put the chain on the little chain ring. The chain should have approximately 1mm clearance between the chain and the inside plate of the derailleur undo the inside screw on top of the derailleur to move the unit inwards, towards the bottom bracket. Once the 1mm is set, put the cable through the derailleur arm. Make sure the adjustment at the shifter is screwed most of the way into the shifter. Tighten down the holding screw on the derailleur arm. Shift the shifter into middle chain ring position. You eventually want the same 1mm between the chain and inner plate. Back the adjustment screw out to increase cable tension and move plate outwards. You may have to reset the cable on the derailleur arm if more adjustment is needed. Next, shift to the big ring and shift to the smallest cog back. You should have 1mm of clearance between the chain and the outside plate. Adjust the outer screw on the top of the derailleur to get this. Undo the screw out to move it towards the outside. Tighten the bolt holding the cable and take the bike for a ride. How to Adjust Your Rear Derailleur? Use a 5mm Allen wrench and loosen the bolt holding the cable on the rear derailleur. Thread the shift cable through the cable stays and tighten it in the rear derailleur with as little slack as possible. Make sure that the adjustment screw on the shifter is in the mid point of the adjustment. Shift the chain into the big chain ring and the smallest cog. As you turn the cranks to pedal the bike, make sure that the chain rides silently on the small cog. If it does not and tries to skip up to the next biggest cog, unscrew the high (marked H) setting screw on the back of the derailleur. If the chain is trying to skip out beyond the small cog, tighten the
23 screw slightly. Perform adjustments in 1/4 turn increments. Next, shift the chain into the small chain ring and biggest cog. Perform the same check on the cog. Loosen the low (marked L) screw to move the chain to the inside and tighten to move towards the outside. After the screws are set, shift to the middle chain ring and the smallest cog. Check to see if the shifters will shift the chain into the next highest cog when shifted once. If the chain does not shift, unscrew the cable adjustment screw on the back of the derailleur until the cable jumps up onto the next cog. Try shifting back and forth between these two gears. If the cable does not want to shift up quickly enough, increase cable tension by unscrewing the cable adjustment screw. If it does not want to shift down to the smallest cog, decrease cable tension by screwing the cable screw in. Repeat this step for the next couple of gears until all are shifting correctly. If you are having trouble getting the shifting right, it could be a number of problems: 1. dirty or dry cables - clean and lube thoroughly; 2. bent derailleur hanger - look to see if it is bent. Bad cable - replace it! New chain/old gear cassette or vice versa. 10. ADJUSTING YOUR BRAKES Your brakes are already fine-tuned by the manufacturer. Still please check that when you squeeze the levers hard, they do not touch the handlebar. If they do, you can adjust the brakes by tuning the brake cable adjusting barrel anti-clockwise. After adjustment turn the lock nut hard clockwise. If the brakes still fail the check, have your dealer check them. Lock Nut Barrel When you sit on your bicycle with hands on the handlebar, your left brake lever operates the rear brake system, and your right brake lever operates the front brake system.
24 11. NORMAL SPARE PARTS ASSEMBLY Tyre and Inner Tube 1). Pump up the inner tube slightly. Slip one edge of the tyre into the rim. Push the tube's valve into the rim's hole and then, starting from the valve, push the tube inside the tyre. Make sure the valve stem is upright and the tube isn't twisted. 2). Begin to place the second edge of the tyre onto the rim. (Only about 75 per cent of the tyre will go on easily, the rest needs to be coaxed onto the rim). For really stubborn tyres, use tyre levers to lever the tyre on slowly making sure not to pinch the tube. 3). When completed, pump a bit more air into the tube to check that it isn't caught and the tyre is properly seated on the rim. Once satisfied, you can inflate the tyre fully. Brake Block Holder 1). After removing the old brake block, which can be done by simply unscrewing the nut on the block anti-clockwise using the hexagonal key and taking away the old brake block, put the new brake block in the screw halfway. 2). Adjust the block height and angle in relation to the rim. Make sure when you use the brake, the brake blocks contact the center of the rim, and that they are parallel to the rim. 3). Adjust the distance between both brake blocks and the rim to allow 1mm of space each side to allow the wheel to rotate freely. 4). After the above adjustments, secure the nut tight. Nut Brake test velocities and braking distances
25 Rim Safe Line Rim safe line Replace the rim when its safe line indicator is worn off. For the thin rim may cause the crack and rider may badly hurt. Periodic Inspections of the Frame, Fork and Suspension joints Every twelve months, check your frame, fork and suspension, as with all mechanical components, the bicycle is subjected to wear and high stresses. Different materials and components react to wear or stress fatigue in different ways. If the design life of a component has been exceeded, it may suddenly fail possibly causing injury to the rider. Any form of crack, scratches or change of coloring in highly stressed areas indicate that the life of the component has been reached and it should be replaced.
26 12. CHAIN Inspection The chain must be kept clean and frequently lubricated in order to extend its life as long as possible. It will require replacement if it stretches, breaks or causes inefficient gear shifting. Make sure that there are no stiff links, they must all move freely. The chain should be lubricated with light oil at least one month, or after use in wet, muddy, or dusty conditions. Take care to wipe off excess oil, and not to get oil on the tyres or rim breaking surfaces. 13. Adjustment and Replacement On derailleur-geared bicycles the rear dear derailleur automatically tensions the chain. To adjust the chain on single freewheel, coaster hub braked or 3-speed hub geared bicycles; Loosen the rear axle nuts (and coaster brake arm clip if fitted) and move the wheel forward to loosen, or backward to tighten, in the frame. When correctly adjusted, the chain should have approximately 10mm of vertical movement when checked in the center between the chain wheel and the rear sprocket. Center the wheel in the frame and retighten the axle nuts after any adjustment. Bicycles which have a single speed freewheel, coaster hub braked or 3-speed hub generally use a wider type chain than derailleur geared bicycles. These chains can be disconnected by way of a special U-shape joining link that can be taken off the master link using a screwdriver. To replace, feed the chain around the chain wheel and rear U-shaped snap-on plate. Make sure the open end of the U-shaped plate is trailing as the link approaches the
27 chain wheel when pedaling forward. 14. LUBRICATION This section explains the parts that require lubrication, their frequency, and brief instructions. See your dealer for recommended lubrications. If you need more detailed information, see other sections of this manual as needed, or consult your dealer. Re-greasing bearings requires special tools and training, so this should only be done by your dealer. Some bearings are permanently sealed and do not require yearly re-greasing Stem Once a year lubricate the stem. Note: Lubricating a direct-connect stem requires adjustment of the headset bearings, so should only be done by your dealer. 1. Remove the stem from the frame. 2. Clean the stem and wipe any old grease. 3. Apply a thin layer of grease to the section of the quill that will be inserted into the frame, including the stem wedge. 4. Install the stem. Seat post Once a year, lubricate the seat post. Choose the method for your frame and seat post material: Aluminum seat post in a metal frame 1. Loosen the seat post binder bolt, or open the quick-release, and remove the seat post from the frame. 2. Wipe any old grease off the seat post, and clean if necessary. 3. Apply a thin layer of grease to the section of the seat post that will be inside the frame. 4. Insert the seat post into the frame. 5. Adjust the seat to the proper height, align it, and tighten the seat post binder bolt. Bottom bracket Once a year, have your dealer re-grease the bottom bracket bearings. Pedals Once a year, have your dealer degrease the pedal bearings. Once a year re-grease the pedal axles where they thread into the crank arms. Note: There are right and left pedals, usually marked with a letter stamped on the end of the pedal axle, or on the wrench flats. 1. Remove the pedals; turn the right pedal spindle counterclockwise, but turn the left clockwise. 2. Apply a this layer of grease over all the threads. 3. Install the pedals on the proper side; put the right pedal on the right crank arm and the left pedal on the left crank arm. 4. Tighten the pedals.
28 Derailleur s Every month, lubricate all pivot points on both the front and rear derailleur s, including the derailleur pulleys on the rear derailleur, with chain lube. Headset Once a year, have your dealer regrease the headset bearings. brakes and brake levers Every 3 months lubricate your brake lever pivots and brake arm fixing pivots with a light oil. Wheels Once a year, have your dealer regrease the wheel bearings. Every year, lubricate wheel quick-releases. Apply several drops of synthetic lube or a similar light oil where the quickrelease lever rotates in the quickrelease body. Suspension forks Once a month, apply a light oil to the upper fork leg where the lower leg slides on it. Wipe clean. Rear suspension No lubrication is required for the shock or the pivot of your full suspension bike. Avoid all lubrication. control cables Lubricate cables whenever they are installed. To install a cable Installing a cable in a cantilever brake requires special tools and training, so should only be done by your dealer. 1.Note the path of the old cable, loosen the cable anchor bolt, and remove the worn cable. 2.Grease the new cable and reinstall, feeding it along the same path as the old cable, including through the cable anchor bolt. 3.Make sure the leaded cable-end is seated properly in the lever, and the housing is properly seated in the lever. If needed when installing a cable in a brake, re-adjust the brake. 4.Turn the adjusting barrel clockwise so the threads on the adjusting barrel are not exposed. For a shift cable, put the shifter in the position with the least cable tension. For a brake, hold the brake closed while you do the next step. 5. Tighten the cable clamp bolt to52-69 lb in. (6-8 N m). 6. Cut the cable so that no more than 2 (51 mm) extends beyond the anchor bolt. 7. Crimp a metal cap or place a bit of solder on the end of the cable to prevent fraying. 8. Follow the instructions for adjustment.
29 Your Woodworm bike is supplied in a carton with a BATCH NUMBER marked on it. Please keep a record of this number, as it will assist should you have any issues with your product. MADE IN TUNISIA