ATSKAITE Latvijas un Baltijas empiontam alpnism Par uzkpšanu virsotn Kjerag (1087 m) Vårløsning maršruts, 6 (NOR) REPORT for Championships of Mountaineering of Latvia and Baltic's States about summiting Kjerag (1087 m) Vårløsning route, 6 (NOR) -2007-
Pase / Passport Maršruta klase / Class of the route Mazo kalnu / Low mountains Maršruta rajons Lysafjord, Norv2ija Region of the route Norway Virsotne, ts augstums, maršruts Kjerag 1087 m Vårløsning Summit, it's height, rout's name Gr7t8bas pakpe / Grade of difficulty NOR 6/A2 Stundu skaits un maršruta datumi 20.07.2007.-21.07.2007. Hours spent on the route and date Dal8bnieki / Participants Normunds Lisovskis, Rolands Laganovskis Uldis Kirtovskis, Normunds Reinbergs Maršruta raksturojums / Description of the route Maršruta garums / Length of the route Reljefs, stvoklis Relief, condition Laiki / Times: 1. diena/1 st day 2. diena/2 nd day noeja/descent ~750 m Klintis, slapjas, klintis rock, wet rocks 11h (10-21) 8h (9-17) ~3h
Maršruta bilde / Picture of the route Vårløsning 6/A2 (NOR)
Maršruta shma/ Scheme of route
Rajona shma/ Scheme of area
Maršruta apraksts pa posmiem / Description of the pitches of the route. Posms/ Pitch Garums/ Lenght R 14 -R 15 ~110m Gr.pak./ Grade NOR R 13 -R 14 30m A2 R 13 -R 14 50 4 R 12 -R 13 50 5 R 11 -R 12 40 4 R 10 -R 11 50m 5+/A1+ Naktsm8tne Bivuac R 9 -R 10 40m 6 R 8 -R 9 20 m V R 7 -R 8 60 m 5+ 5+/A1 R 6 -R 7 ~80 m 4 R 5 -R 6 50 m 5+ 5+/A1 R 4 -R 5 40 m 5+ R 3 -R 4 50m 5 R 0 -R 3 ~150 m 4 Css apraksts/short description Plats kam8ns ar lielu plauktu pa vidu. Kpjot 2 virves >50m (5+/5) T k pa kam8nu lej gzs 7denskritums, izmantojm(žumri) vecu stipri bojtu margu, 2 daiu ncs br8vi kpt margu izmantojot k drošinšanu Wide chimney with big rack on the middle. For climbing 2 pitches >50 (5/5+). Because of all chimneys was under waterfall we used fixed rope for ascent and safety. Traverss pa labi, drošinoties pie margas uz plata kam8na skumu saus laik vieglas terasveida klintis (4 NOR) Traverse direction to right. For safety use fix rope. On dry weather easy slabs. Vieglas klintis, ziaini plaukti. Ar izeju pie nostiprintas vecas margas Easy rocks with exit to old fixed ropes. Plats kam8ns, ar izeju uz pleca. Kam8ns otrs beigs, pirms izejas uz pleca, NL k pirmais gja ar A1 Wide chimney with exit to shoulder. NL use leder A1 Vieglas klintis, ko šorso 2 3 ziaini plaukti Easy slabs which cross 2-3 grassy shelves. Stvs(>90 0 ) sienas posms (divas parallas plaisas, kas saiet vien) Steep (>90 0 ) wall (two parallel cracks meet together. No trim pusm nosegta sienas niš, kas no apakšas nav redzama idela bivi vieta. From three sides covered niche which not visible at long range 3 plaisas, kpjam pa vidjo, plaisa prtop šaura kam8n, kur var ier7mties plakaniski (novelkot mugursomu un piekabinot to pie iekares). 3 cracks, we climb up by middle. Crack turn to narrow chimney where go in only flatly and have to hang up rucksack on harness. Pdj vieta maršrut, no kurienes samr vienkrši iespjams evakuties. (Noeja: 3 vieglas virves pa plauktu sistmu virzien pa kreisi uz augšu) l8dz šlamburam. L8dz lejai 5-6 dulferi). Maršruts turpins pa viegliem plauktiem traverss pa labi. Last place on the root where relatively easy possible descend down. (descend way up to direction left on shelves system up to bolt. 5-6 ropes down). Root continue direction to right Iekšjais st7ris ar izeju uz plaukta, tlk vertikls, vietm negat8vs kam8ns, kas beidzas ar lielu caurumu augšgal. Ar izeju uz milz8ga plaukta. NL/NR te bija divas virves, abas 5+/A1!!! Stacija uz liela plaukta pa vidu. Internal corner with exit on shelf then vertical or little overhanging chimney with big hole on the top. NL/NR had two pitches both 5+/A1 pa plakni, pieeja zem kam8na. NR/NL bija viena pilna un puse virves, ar vienu nepietika, lai noki7tu l8dz kam8na skumam. Slab up to under chimney. NR/NL had one and half pitches AtšOlušs plksnes, kam seko plaisa ar lielu dobumu, virs t sl8pa plakne NR sasait k pirmais gja pat ar A1 (trep8te) Separated flakes with following hollow. Top of that sloping face. NR use ladders tr8s parallas ribas un tr8s st7ri (RL/UK pa kreiso, NL/NR pa centru) Three parallel ridges un corners ((RL/UK by left, NL/NR by central corner) Uz augšu pa ziainm plauktu plaisu sistmm Up to by grassy slabs system Piegjiens pa zles plauktiem no fjorda ap 30min. 3 vieglas virves pa mitriem ziainiem plauktiem. Walk up to root beginning from fjord under 30min 3 easy pitches by grassy rocks.
Bildes/Pictures denskritum/ waterfall R 14-R 15 R 13-R 14
R 9-R 10 Naktsmtne posma R10-R11 skums / Bivuac begining of pitch R 10-R 11 R 0-R 3
Sienas stvoklis 2 dienas pirms kpiena Wall condition 2 days before climbing
Piez8mes/ Notes Ieteicamais virvju garums 60m R 0 -R 3 Ioti ziains, problmas ar starpou likšanu. L8dz R 7 sasaits kpj Uldis/Rolands un abi Normundi. Tad sadals Normunds R. un Uldis dodas lej. R 12 -R 14 saus laik br8vi kpjams. Ar staciju uz plaukta kam8na vid7. Recommend use ropes leght 60m. Up to climbed R 7 Uldis/Rolands and both Normunds then splited and Normund R. and Uldi K. went down. Pitch R 12 -R 14 at dry weather possible climbed up free. Transpotrs/Transport: avio: Stavangeraprmis/ferry: Lysebotn avio: Stavangeraautobuss/bus :Forsandprmis/ferry: Lysebotn