TerraTrike 3.5 Owner s Manual Exceptional Human Powered Vehicles
Cautions/Safety: Stop! Make sure to read and understand this manual completely before riding your TerraTrike. We want to keep you riding your TerraTrike safely for endless miles and years to come. So, always follow these safety precautions for each ride: Inspect your TerraTrike each time before riding. Check the tires for proper pressure and any damage. Ensure the brakes are functioning at their full capacity. Your helmet! You do have a helmet, don t you? Please remember: A helmet is your most important piece of safety equipment. Put on a skidlid, noggin box, brain bucket, melon mount, or whatever you call it... you'll look cooler! Do not ride the TerraTrike at night under any circumstances without a white headlight visible from a distance of 500 feet, and a red rear taillight. Look behind you! We strongly recommend the use of a rear view mirror. With it, you can keep tabs on the action you just left behind. But make sure to turn your head and look before turning or changing lanes. You can miss seeing vehicles or other riders coming up behind you if you only use the mirror. Turning: It s fun to ride on two wheels, but only when your vehicle has only two. If you have three, keep them all on the ground. Also, use caution when cornering at speed and learn what are safe speeds for negotiating corners and going down hills (Just as if you were to turn sharply at high speed in a car, the TerraTrike can be upset if turned too sharply for a given speed). It is best to be more cautious while you are gaining proficient riding experience. Hot Stuff: The disc brakes will get very hot after heavy braking. Do Not touch them. Braking: Make sure to brake evenly using both hands. The TerraTrike is designed with front brakes only. You will experience brake-steer if you brake unevenly on only one side (On a 2-wheeled bike, if you were to jam on the front brake, you could easily flip over the handlebars. Similarly, on the TerraTrike, sudden uneven braking can cause the TerraTrike to turn sharply or possibly roll over). Although the TerraTrike is suitable for riding on dirt roads if equipped with more rugged tires, it was not designed for all-terrain, off-road use, or near-earth orbit. Airborne use is not recommended. The TerraTrike only becomes unsafe if operated in an unsafe manner! The unique look of the TerraTrike attracts much attention. So, you're more likely to be seen by motorists, provided you are not obstructed from view by other vehicles. Remember, your first line of defense is always your own common sense. Ride as if you are invisible to motorists. Do not use the steering system to support your weight while getting on and off. Use the wheels and/or seat instead. The handlebar was not designed to hold your weight. Your TerraTrike is strong enough for most riding conditions. That is not a license to ride in a hazardous or abusive manner! Anyone could damage the trike if they tried hard enough. Use common sense. The alignment of the front wheels is a crucial adjustment. A misaligned TerraTrike can become very unstable at high speeds. Make sure to follow the setup instructions (Step 6.) for the toe adjustment very carefully. 2
Assembly & Setup Information: When your TerraTrike arrives, carefully unpack the contents and inspect for any damage that may have occurred during shipping. If anything is amiss, contact the WizWheelz Sales Office immediately at (269) 945-5581. Checklist When you unpack, this is what you should have: q Boom with attached parts q Frame with attached parts q Left and Right front wheels with hubmounts q Rear Wheel q Seat frame q Parts Package: o Chain & master links o Rear Derailleur/cable housing o Quick release skewer o 4 cable end cups o Parking Brake (Velcro Strap) o Miscellaneous fasteners o Seat mesh & end caps q Any ordered accessories ***Save all boxes and packing materials.*** ***You will need them if you ever want to ship your TerraTrike, or need to have any warranty service.*** The following assembly is required: Attachment of the wheels, attachment of the boom, steering system setup, setup of the derailleurs, set up of brakes, connection of the brake and shift cables, chain attachment, and attachment of the seat. Tools you need: Bicycle air pump (presta valve), adjustable wrench or metric & English socket sets, tape measure, Phillips head screwdriver, wire cutters, pliers, English & metric Allen wrenches, soft mallet, and the four Jacks from a deck of playing cards. If you don t feel qualified to perform any of the assembly and setup operations, make sure to contact a local bicycle shop for assistance. WizWheelz can recommend a good shop in most cities. Time Required For Assembly: I m a bike mechanic I m mechanically inclined I can change a light bulb I think I m mechanically inclined What s a wrench? 1.5 hours 3.0 hours 5.0 hours 7.5 hours Take it too a Bike Shop! 3
Assembly & Setup: You will need a bit of space for the assembly. Make sure you have room to work. Hint: If you don t have a workbench or bike stand, push the top flaps of the box in, and use it as a work stand. Step 1. Tire Inflation: Tools: Presta valve air pump. Inflate the tires between 60% and 80% of their recommended pressures indicated on the tire sidewalls. This is because you are riding on three wheels rather than two! It is also very important that both front tires have the same pressure. Otherwise, the steering will not be balanced. Step 2. Putting on the front wheels: Tools: 9/16 socket or adjustable wrench, 1/4 Allen wrench, soft headed mallet. The front wheels are pre-connected to their respective hubmounts, and have a left and right side orientation. The hubmounts will need to be connected to the yokes at the ends of the outrigger tubes. Remove the kingpin from the hubmount by unscrewing the kingpin nut. Position each hubmount in the yoke so the kingpin can be passed through the top hole in the yoke, the hubmount, and finally the bottom hole in the yoke. You may need to tap it through with a mallet. Put the kingpin washer and nut back on the kingpin. Tighten very securely. (See Fig. 1) Note: You may need to retighten the kingpin nuts after a short break-in period. It s a good idea to check them after the first 100 miles. Fig. 1 4
Step 3. Putting on the rear wheel: Tools: none. Install the quick release skewer in the axle with a spring on either side (small end of spring points in). Loosen both sides of the skewer so that the dropouts (the slotted ends of the frame to hold the rear wheel) can be completely seated on the rear axle. Thumb tighten the nuts. Clamp the quick release closed. If you have it correct, you should feel resistance when the lever is about a third of the way through its movable range. Make sure it s tight! (See Fig. 2) Fig. 2 Step 4. Attaching the boom: Tools: 13mm socket or adjustable wrench, 6mm Allen wrench. To attach the boom, slide it onto the stub tube at the front of the frame. Make sure the chainring is on the drive side, and is parallel with the rear wheel (perpendicular to the ground). Tighten the front clamp bolt. Make sure the idler chain guard L-bracket is pointing a little forward of straight down, and tighten the idler axle bolt until you cannot move the chainguard with your hand. Do not over tighten, or it will affect your chain line. (See Fig. 3) Attach the pedals. Note: The left (non-drive side) pedal is reverse threaded. 5 Fig. 3
Step 5. Handlebar attachment/adjustment: Tools: 9/16 socket or adjustable wrench, 3/16 Allen wrench. Attach the steering brace to the frame using the nut and washer supplied. Tighten it enough so that the handlebar does not turn freely, but don t over tighten it. You ll loosen this later. Loosen the bolts in the steering clamp. Set the handlebar so the grips are pointing straight up (perpendicular to the floor), and tighten the bolts. This is a good place to start, but you may want to adjust the angle later to suit your personal ergonomics. Keep in mind that the handlebar/seat position you choose can affect your turning radius. (See Fig. 4) Fig. 4 Step 6. Steering set up: Tools: 13mm socket or adjustable wrench, 5mm Allen wrench. Remove the bolts at the outer end of each tierod. Position the tierod end under the hole in the hubmount. Slide the bolt through the hubmount, the tierod end, and then the locknut. Make sure the locknut is screwed on securely. You may need to push the brake arms out of the way for this. (See Fig. 5) Fig. 5 6
The alignment of the front wheels is a crucial adjustment. A misaligned TerraTrike can become very unstable at high speeds, and cause premature tire wear. Make sure that the tires are properly inflated. Make sure the handlebar stays parallel with the outrigger tubes of the frame during the following adjustments. This is why you tightened the steering brace nut to the point that the handlebar doesn t turn freely. The tierods are adjusted by loosening the tierod locknuts toward either end of the tierods. One on each rod is reversed threaded. The tierod can then be rotated freely. This will cause the tierod ends to be moved closer together or further apart, and move the hubmounts either more inward or outward in relation to the frame. Measure the distance between the frame and the leading edge (A), and then the trailing edge (B) of one wheel. Adjust that wheel s tierod until these measurements are the same. This will give you one wheel that is parallel with the frame. Now measure the distance between the leading (C), and trailing (D) edges of the front wheels. Adjust the other tierod until these measurements are the same. Make the measurements from the center of the tread on each tire, and keep the tape measure level with the ground. (See Fig. 6) Note: The TerraTrike frame has a degree of built-in flex to absorb road shock. Therefore, the weight of a rider will alter the steering geometry slightly. So, to achieve the optimal initial set-up, it is best to sit in the seat of the TerraTrike while having an assistant perform the toe adjustment. The parallel position is the starting point for finding an optimum alignment. Once the measurement is correct, tighten the tierod locknuts. Be careful not to over tighten, or you might strip the tierod ends. Depending on rider height, weight, and riding position, other alignments, either toe-in or toe-out, may give a more stable ride at higher speeds. If you find that the TerraTrike becomes unstable at higher speeds, this is a good indication that the toe adjustment is not correct. Feel free to play with the alignment, to find the best position for you. As a general rule, heavier riders can see better results with a slight toe-out, and lighter riders with a slight toe-in. Never change the alignment more than 1/16 at one time. Keep in mind, a difference of more than 1/4 is not recommended. Now loosen the steering brace nut slightly. Note: It is important that the steering brace turn freely. This will affect your high-speed stability. The steering system should be tight enough to eliminate play, but still turn with little to no resistance. 7 Fig. 6
Step 7. Derailleur/chain set up: Tools: 5mm Allen wrench, Phillips head screwdriver. If you don t have experience with derailleurs, don t pull your hair out over adjusting these things, as this can be difficult. Please seek the assistance of your local bike shop! Rear derailleur setup: Screw the rear derailleur onto the frame. (See Fig. 7) Use caution not to cross the threads. This can ruin the frame. Fig. 7 Next, turn the top adjustment screw to line up the derailleur guide pulley with the outside line of the smallest sprocket. This is easiest to see when looking at it from the back of the Trike. (See Fig. 8) 8 Fig. 8
Now, put both shift levers in the lowest (horizontal) position. Route the rear (right) shift cable: From the shifter on the handlebar Under the steering system To the cablestop on the underside of the maintube Use the next piece of cable housing at the rear of the maintube Over the idler wheel axel, and up through the frame/chainstay triangle Through the first cablestop on the chainstay Then along the chainstay Through the derailleur cable housing, (in parts package) and to the rear derailleur (See Fig. 9) Fig. 9 Make sure all slack is out of the system, and tighten. Trim the excess to about 1-1/2, and crimp on a cable endcup. (See Fig. 10) Note: After routing any of the cables, make sure all cable housing has proper slack, and doesn t bind up when the handlebars are turned. 9 Fig. 10
Push the derailleur arm so that the pulley wheel lines up with the center of the largest sprocket. Turn the bottom adjustment screw to secure this position. You may need to loosen the bottom adjustment screw to get it lined up. (See Fig. 11) Very bad things can happen to your rear wheel (the chain could shift into the spokes, and cut them) if this adjustment is not correct. Fig. 11 Attaching the chain: Two idler wheels mounted under the frame guide the chain. (See Fig. 12) The routing of the chain is important, and can affect the operation of the TerraTrike if not installed correctly! Hint: It s easier to pull the chain through the system backwards when routing. Make sure the chain does not bind on the L bracket chain guards. Fig. 12 10
Route the chain from: The back of the smallest rear sprocket In front the top derailleur pulley Behind and under the lower derailleur pulley Over the outside groove of the rear idler wheel Under the outside groove of the front idler wheel Under and around to the top of the small front chainring Through the front derailleur Under the inside groove of the front idler wheel Under the inside groove of the rear idler wheel Under the chainstay and bridge tube and back to the top of the sprocket (See Fig. 13) Note: Chain length should be set at the factory, so you can attach it with the master links provided. Fig. 13 Front derailleur setup: Your front derailleur has been preset for height by the factory. The front derailleur has H and L (high and low) adjustment screws similar to the rear. Set the L adjustment so the clearance between the inner plate of the derailleur and the chain is 0.5mm. (See Fig. 14) 11 Fig. 14
Route the front (left) shift cable: From the handlebar Under the steering system To the cablestop at the rear of the boom tube Through the cable housing and stops at the front of the boom, and to the derailleur Make sure all slack is out of the system, and tighten. You might need to shift it a couple of times to get rid of slack. Trim the excess to about 1-1/2, and crimp on a cable end cup. (See Fig. 15) Fig. 15 Shift to the large chainring. Set the H adjustment screw so the clearance between the outer derailleur plate and the chain is 0.5mm. (See Fig. 16) Check the system by shifting to each ring. 12 Fig. 16
Rear derailleur adjustment: Now, spin the crank forward, and move the rear (right) shifter one click (one click = one gear). If the chain does not move to the next sprocket, turn the adjustment barrel out, or counterclockwise, until the chain shifts. Continue to shift to all of the gears. Adjust the barrel as necessary to insure accurate shifting. Position the chain on the smallest chainring up front, and the largest sprocket in back. Turn the crank backward. Turn the tension adjustment screw so the pulley is as close to the sprocket as possible without touching it. Next, position the chain on smallest sprocket in back, and repeat the procedure. (See Fig. 17) Fig. 17 13
Step 9. Brake setup: Tools: 5mm Allen wrench, the four Jacks from a deck of cards. Slide the four Jacks in between the outer (stationary) brake pad and the disc rotor. Hold the brake caliper square to the cards/disc rotor. Apply just enough pressure to hold them there without bending the disc rotor out of shape, and tighten the caliper mounting bolts. Make sure they re tight. Remove the cards. You just lined up your brake. Now, do the same thing on the other side. Next, the brake cables will need to be connected. The left side runs directly from the brake lever to the disc caliper. The right side runs from the brake lever, under the tierod, between the yoke and the hubmount, and to the caliper. (See Fig. 18a) Fig. 18a Slide each cable through the adjustment barrel on its caliper, and then through the cable clamp. Push the actuation arm about half way through its stroke, and tighten the clamp very securely. When adjusted properly, you should feel the brakes engage after the brake levers are squeezed a short distance. Turn the brake lever or caliper adjustment barrels to remove any slack. Once you have the left and right balanced, trim the excess cable so about 1 remains. Crimp a cable end cup on the end of the cables. (See Fig. 18b) Caution: The discs will get hot under heavy braking! 14 Fig. 18b
Step 10. Attaching the seat: Tools: 13mm socket or adjustable wrench, 6mm Allen wrench. First put the end caps in the seat frame. If you are installing a flag, omit one top end cap (depending on what side of the road you ride on). Then attach the seat mesh to the seat frame. Insert the ends of the seat frame into the narrow pockets in the seat mesh. (See Fig. 19) Wrap the remaining part of the mesh (with the grommets) around to the back of the seat frame. Lace the mesh tightly together in the rear starting at one end, and ending at the other (similar to lacing shoe laces). Hint: You can obtain more control over your seat shape and comfort by cutting the cord into separate pieces for each section of the seat. This will allow you to tighten or loosen individual sections independently. Here are the lengths you will need to cut the cord: 2 pieces 41, 1 piece 27, and the remaining piece. Fig. 19 Connect the seat frame to the trike frame by positioning one of the seat clamp holes over one of the two seat-pin holes in the frame. Insert the seat-pin through the right-hand side of the seat clamp, one of the washers, through the frame, the other washer, and then through the left hand side of the seat clamp. If you have four washers, use two on each side. Attach loosely with the locknut. (See Fig. 20) The seat was not designed to be placed in the front most position (front frame hole, rear seat clamp hole). This position will interfere with the steering system. Note: It is generally easier to keep the washers in position while you push the seat pin through by first turning the TerraTrike on its side. 15
Fig. 20 Next, connect the lower seat stays by screwing the bolts through the ends of the lower seat stays into the forward mounting holes on the top side of the dropouts, with the washers in between the seat stays and the frame. (See Fig. 21) There are two mounting holes on each dropout. The front most hole is for the seat stay. The other is for mounting a rack. Fig. 21 Once you have found a suitable recline angle and a comfortable fore-aft position, firmly tighten the locknut. Note: Never put weight on the seat without the seat pin in place! Check the locknut from time to time to make sure it hasn t loosened during riding. Adjusting the seat movement and recline: To adjust the forward position of the seat, loosen and remove the seat pin bolt. Slide the seat to the desired position, and then reinsert the seat pin bolt. It may then be necessary to adjust the seat recline. Remove the ring pins that connect the upper and lower segments of the seat stays. The stays can then be telescoped to a new position. Line up one of the holes on the upper seat stay with the hole on the bottom seat stay. Then re-insert the ring pins and tighten the seat pin locknut. You Did It! (Wipe your brow and go get a drink of your favorite beverage.) 16
Riding: Note: If the beverage you just finished was alcoholic, don t drink and Trike. Getting on & off: Do not use the steering system to support your weight while getting on and off!!! Use the wheels or seat instead. The handlebar was not designed to hold your weight. Step in front of the outrigger tubes while facing forward. Place one hand on the seat behind you to support you. Sit back into the seat. Place your feet on the pedals & go! Shifting: The TerraTrike comes equipped with standard bar end shifters. The gears can only be shifted while pedaling. Simply move them up or down to find the desired gear. Turning: When turning you will find that the TerraTrike does not lean into a corner the way a regular bicycle does. It behaves more like an automobile. For this reason you will feel a tendency to be pulled to the outside of a turn. To counteract this force, lean into the center of the turn. Please read the cautions and safety section carefully before taking high-speed turns. Stopping: To stop, squeeze the brake levers. Each brake lever will actuate the corresponding brake on either of the front hubs. To achieve a balanced braking effort, it is necessary to use both brake levers simultaneously. It is not recommended to brake using only one brake lever. This will result in an unbalanced braking effort, and may cause the TerraTrike to veer in one direction. To keep your Trike from rolling away on inclines or in the wind, use the supplied Velcro strap as a parking brake. Hold one of the brake handles down, wrap the strap around the handlebar and the brake handle, and secure it. Riding over obstacles: Please refrain from riding over any obstacles bigger than a breadbox, and avoid any entanglements with dogs, cats, planes, trains, and automobiles. They tend to mar the finish. To successfully negotiate/ride over obstacles on the scale of a few inches, steer the TerraTrike so that the obstacle comes between one of the front wheels and the pedals when riding over it. This way the rear wheel will not hit the object, which could otherwise result in an upset in your ride, or damage to the rear wheel. Remember, there are three wheels on the TerraTrike. It s easy to forget the rear wheel until it hits something that just went directly between the front wheels. 17
Maintenance: Lubrication: Chain and cables need regular lubrication with good quality bike lubrication. All drivetrain parts will need lubrication periodically. Spokes: Break-in period. During the first 500 miles, the spokes will experience a period of stretching to a degree more than that of a two-wheeled bicycle. This is due to the higher lateral (or side) forces applied to the wheels while turning. The spokes may require tightening, and the wheels truing. Have this performed by a qualified bicycle technician unless you have the necessary wheel truing skills. Brakes: The brake cables will stretch in the early life of the TerraTrike. This is a normal effect. To tighten the brake cables when they have loosened, turn the adjustment barrels. Replace the cables at the first indication of wear or fray. Balancing: If the braking action ever appears to be uneven (one side brakes harder than the other), the brakes will need to be adjusted. Pads: Unless you are routinely making transcontinental jaunts, the brake pads should last many seasons. If they do ever need replacing, contact your local shop or WizWheelz to order replacements. Shifters: The shift cables will also stretch when new. You may need to adjust them occasionally as they break in. Idler Wheels: The chain Idler wheels will experience normal wear on the tension side of the chain over extended periods of riding. To obtain greater life from the idlers, you may wish to monitor the wear and rotate the idlers as necessary. Look for a change in the depth of the inner grooves. Steering: All of the steering parts tend to settle in after the first 100 miles or so. This may require some tightening of nuts and bolts. Afterwards, you should just check it every now and then for loosening. Cleaning: Your TerraTrike will operate for years to come if you keep it regularly cleaned and lubed! Water and soap won t hurt the TerraTrike, provided you lubricate right after cleaning. Avoid getting the seat mesh wet. If you need to wash the seat mesh, wash it in the gentle cycle and let it air dry. If you ride in inclement weather, immediately clean and lube your TerraTrike after your ride. Road salt will kill your TerraTrike. Clean it off immediately! Survival Tips: Keep your upper body quiet (no movement) while riding to avoid unwanted biofeedback, or tad poling. This is especially crucial at high speeds. If you feel you are riding at high speeds regularly, you may want to consider a larger front chainring or Speed Drive option to slow down your cadence. To help avoid tad poling, you ll want to ride with a slower cadence than on an upright bike. Try to avoid being hidden by traffic while riding. The TerraTrike is only rated to 5 atmospheres. Therefore, attempt underwater exploration with caution. Desert riding range: as much water as you can carry. 18
Limited Warranty: Your TerraTrike is warranted (for as long as you own same, and is not transferable) against defects in manufacturing occurring in the frame and steering components. Other components on the Trike are warranted by their respective manufactures. This warranty is limited to manufacturing defects only, and will not cover any problems that arise from owner misuse or abuse. WizWheelz retains the right to make the determination as to whether the problem complained of was caused by a manufacturing defect or the owner's misuse or abuse. For all manufacturing defects, WizWheelz will determine whether to refund the purchase price, repair the defect, or replace the defective part. WizWheelz is not responsible to take any action other than the aforementioned and is not liable for any consequential damages or injuries resulting from or caused by any defective part or component. Liability Waiver: Riding a TerraTrike can result in injury or death. By riding a TerraTrike, the rider is expressly assuming the risk for any injury that may result from same. The owner is responsible for any and all injuries and/or property damages caused by someone riding the owner's TerraTrike. The owner shall indemnify WizWheelz for any damage or financial loss incurred by WizWheelz as the result of an injury or property damage caused by someone riding the owner's TerraTrike. Money Back Guarantee: If, for any reason (including non-acceptance of the terms and conditions herein) you are not satisfied with your TerraTrike, we will buy back your TerraTrike and accessories for $100 less than your purchase price not including any shipping charges, provided that the TerraTrike must be received by WizWheelz, Inc. in the same condition as shipped within 30 days of the original shipping date. WizWheelz will not honor any returns received after 30 days. If the unit is returned in less than new condition, WizWheelz reserves the right to deduct for any damages. Please take extreme care in repackaging the product. Why $100? We do incur some costs associated with the occasional returned trike. For the consumer's benefit, we would rather defray the expense in this manner instead of raising the price of the TerraTrike to cover it. This way, we can keep our retail price as low as possible. So if you order a TerraTrike and wish to return it for any reason at all, you will only sacrifice your shipping charges to and from our factory and a modest "restocking fee" of $100. 19
3.5 Specifications: Frame Tig Welded 4130 Chromoly Steel Steering Tig Welded 4130 Chromoly Steel Finish (powder coat) Metallic Blood Red Seat Type Heat Treated, T6 Aluminum Breathable nylon mesh back - Adjust Sliding seat - Height 9 inches (0.25m) - Recline Adjust 40-70 degrees Drivetrain Shimano 27-speed - Cassette Shimano 11-32, 9-Speed Gear inch range 17-92 Crankset Shimano Tiagra triple 170mm Derailleurs Shimano LX Chain Sachs PC-59 9sp Shifters Shimano Dura-Ace Bar end Brake Levers Alloy Silver/Black Brakes Shimano Deore mechanical disc Rear Wheel 20 inch (406) - Hub Velocity 8/9sp - Rim Velocity Triple V, 32 hole Front Wheels 20 inch (406) - Hubs Velocity 20mm disc - Rims Velocity Triple V, 32 hole Tires Kenda Kwest 20 x 1.5 (406) Spokes Stainless Wheelbase 39 inches (1.07m) Gross length (medium) 71 inches (1.80m) Track Width 31 inches (0.79m) Gross Width 34 inches (0.86m) Turning Radius 85 inches (2.41m) Bottom Bracket - Height (medium) 13 inches (0.33m) Rider Height Range (approximate) 5 2 to 6 5 (X-seam: 37-50 ) 1.52 to 1.98 m (x-seam: 0.94-1.27 m) Weight Distribution 33% each wheel Total Weight 34lb (15.4 kg) Specifications subject to change without notice Contact Information: WizWheelz Inc. www.wizwheelz.com 1105 W. Green St. Phone (269) 945-5581 Hastings, MI 49058 Fax (269) 945-4474 20