Naturetrek Outline itinerary Day 1 Fly Västerås and transfer Bergslagen. Evening Elk watching. Day 2 Wolf tracking & howling; overnight Bergslagen. Day 3 Beaver watching; overnight Bergslagen. Day 4 Transfer Hälsingland; overnight Bear Hide. Day 5 Transfer Västerås and fly London. Departs July to September Focus Mammals (particularly Elk, Wolf, Beaver and Brown Bear) Grading A/B. As well as gentle walks, this holiday also includes longer walks on rough forest trails, so an enjoyment of walking is required Dates and Prices See website (tour code SWE06) or brochure Highlights: 20-30 Elk in one evening possible in royal forests Journey by boat at dusk to look for Beaver Track Wolves inside their territory Listen for Wolf howls in the forest after dark! Enjoy the forest at night, sitting round a camp fire in Wolf country Spend the night in a comfortable Bear Hide Mountain Hare, Roe Deer, Red Squirrel & Red Fox From top: Brown Bear (Hakan Vargas). Wolf howling (Skogens Konung), European Beaver (Anders Ohlund) Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf s Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: info@naturetrek.co.uk W: www.naturetrek.co.uk
Introduction It is just a short international flight from Stansted to Västerås (near Stockholm), then a drive of less than an hour to the tranquil and beautiful forests of central Sweden, home to such mammals as Elk, Wolf, Brown Bear and Beaver, all long since extinct in the British Isles. It is these sought-after animals on which you will focus during this fascinating 5-day holiday amongst the scenic lakes and dense forests of Sweden s Bergslagen and Hälsingland regions, in both of which these larger mammals outnumber the local human population. Your tour leader and guide, Marcus Eldh, lives in these forests and spends much of his time tracking and studying its four-legged inhabitants, to which he is deeply devoted. He will lead you on foot through the forests using only the animal trails, and will share with you his knowledge of tracking both Elk and Wolves and demonstrate various ways of communicating with them, some of which have been used by the region s hunters for thousands of years. It is a magical experience to hear these creatures respond, and Marcus has had great success calling to local Wolf packs over the years. For your first three nights you will be based in a small guesthouse near the forests of Bergslagen, benefiting from Marcus s expertise as you watch Elk and track and listen for Wolves. Then, for your last two days in Sweden, Marcus will drive into the rolling forested hills and lakes of Hälsingland. Here you will spend a night in the comfortable Bear Hide of our friends Håkan and Eva. Håkan has been studying and photographing the bears in these forests for many years and, with his father, built his comfortable log-cabin hide at the edge of a clearing in the spruce forest. Whether or not you see any bears, this is a magical place in which to spend time. Realistically, a bear sighting is not guaranteed here, although one bear a night is averaged and the success rate hovers at around 80%. However, the magic of this place to us and we hope to you is not just in its wild Brown Bears, but in Håkan and Eva's exuberant passion for the region, the beauty of the scenery, the utter tranquillity, the rich natural history and the relative accessibility of this wild area. Left: Pension Udden. Right: Elk (Marcus Westberg) Naturetrek March 16 2
Itinerary Please note that the itinerary below offers our planned programme of excursions. However, adverse weather & other local considerations can necessitate some re-ordering of the programme during the course of the tour, though this will always be done to maximise best use of the time and weather conditions available. Day 1 Pension Udden, Bergslagen You depart London Stansted during the late morning on a direct, two-hour Ryanair flight to Västerås airport, near Stockholm; a small airport with a tiny, sparkling and uncongested terminal which is unlikely to take too long to clear! Arriving in mid-afternoon, your small group (maximum 8) will be met by your English-speaking tour leader, Marcus Eldh, and you will drive north-west for no more than an hour on the open and remarkably traffic-free roads that make Sweden such a relaxing and peaceful country in which to travel. Our base for the next three nights is at the delightful Pension Udden, a small family run guesthouse near the forest and overlooking the beautiful Lake Storsjon. Elk Watching (Marcus Eldh) After dinner on your first evening you will search the forests with Marcus, by vehicle and on foot, looking for Elk (or Moose, as they are known in north America), the king of the forest and the mightiest of all Nordic animals. With a population of over 300,000, Sweden boasts more Elk per square kilometre than any other country in the world, and in these royal forests it is possible to see 10 or more of these magnificent animals on an evening's drive as they emerge out of the forests at dusk to feed. Other species to look out for include Roe Deer, Mountain Hare, Brown Hare, Badger, Red Fox and - for the lucky few - very occasionally, Wolf. Day 2 Pension Udden, Bergslagen After a hearty breakfast you will head out to explore the nearby Lake Bysjön, taking a pleasant twohour walk on the trail around the lake. Birds such as Osprey, Honey Buzzard and Goshawk may be seen, as well as many woodland birds such as woodpeckers, flycatchers, tits and finches. A swimming Beaver is also always a possibility. Returning to the guesthouse for lunch, we hope to arrange an afternoon visit to an excellent wildlife exhibition at the nearby Wildlife Research Station, where you will learn about Wolves and their life here in Sweden, perhaps getting the chance to watch some of the station researchers video footage. Not long ago Wolves were virtually extinct in Sweden. Today, however, their numbers are increasing, along with those of the other large predators (Brown Bear, European Lynx and Naturetrek March 16 3
Wolverine), and the country accommodates a population of around 200 individuals, with their stronghold being central Sweden. They still remain a threatened species, however, with legal and illegal hunting being the most common cause of death. Despite difficulties, a pair of Wolves has been present in the vicinity of the wildlife research station for a number of years and established a territory in the forests nearby. This alpha-couple have successfully raised young in at least three recent years and their offspring have grown up to leave the pack and establish new territories. Later in the afternoon we will join Marcus for an exploration of one of Sweden s best known Wolf territories. With the aid of data from recent fieldwork being made available to us by the Wolf researchers, Marcus will choose the area within the territory with the most potential, and the rest of the day will be spent walking and tracking in the forests and swamps of the region looking for signs and tracks of the pack. A sighting of these Wolves in such dense terrain is a rarity but, as dusk falls, Marcus will call to the pack and endeavour to attract a response for the howling of Wolves at night is one of the most memorable experiences that the natural world has to offer! Then, right in the heart of the forest, he will prepare dinner around a camp fire to enable the group to enjoy the sounds of the evening, listening in particular for any calls coming from the nearby Wolf den before returning to the guesthouse for a good night's sleep. NB. As well as the mammals mentioned in this itinerary, notably such species as Elk, Brown Bear, Beaver, Roe Deer, Red Fox, Badger, Brown and Mountain Hare and Red Squirrel, you have a slim chance of seeing one of the more elusive residents such as European Lynx, Stoat, Weasel, Mink, Otter or Wild Boar! Even if you do not see any of these animals, you will have plenty of fun deciphering the many mammal tracks we find along the way! Day 3 Black Woodpecker (Tom Mabbett) Pension Udden, Bergslagen Bergslagen is well known for its lush green forests, little blue lakes and abundant wildlife. For those of you with the energy, it will be well worth rising early to enjoy the morning sun as it rises above the treetops and greets the mists that hang above the still surface of the lake. This scene is often accompanied by the call of the Black-throated Diver as it echoes between the shores; a call which, for Swedes especially, epitomizes the wilderness. You are welcome to enjoy a leisurely morning following yesterday s late night, but for those who wish, Marcus will take you back into the wolf territory looking for fresh tracks or perhaps a fresh kill. There will also be the opportunity to look for birds and perhaps a mammal or two such as Red Squirrel or European Otter. Marcus will then keep the afternoon's activity flexible in order to search of any wildlife the group has missed so far, or to revisit a particularly productive area. Naturetrek March 16 4
Left: Naturetrek group on the Beaver watching boat excursion (Tom Mabbett) Right: young Beaver (Ed Brazier) In the evening, you will head out once more, this time in search of Beavers which leave their lodges at dusk to spend an industrious night felling lakeside trees and saplings. We will travel silently by electric boat, passing several Beaver lodges as we float along the lakes and rivers. A little quiet patience is required here, but with luck you are likely to see several individuals going about their nightly construction work and swimming about. As the light summer sky eventually darkens you will leave the Beavers and return to the guesthouse for a good night s rest. Day 4 Bear Hide, Hälsingland You will leave Bergslagen today and drive with Marcus for about three hours to the rolling forested hills and lakes of Hälsingland where you will have lunch at the wilderness lodge of our friends Håkan and Eva. The views from the wooden terrace of their lodge (where lunch will be served if the weather is fine), looking across the large lake, are stunning. The silence and stillness experienced here is simply intoxicating. Replenished by one of Eva s delicious lunches, Håkan will guide you gently up through the forest for an hour or two, to his Bear Hide, where you have one of the best opportunities in Sweden to see, and perhaps photograph, wild Bears. As you walk, you will need to be as quiet as you can, but listen to Håkan as he tells you a little about the Bears and their habits, perhaps pointing out any footprints, or scratching on the trees, or raided anthills! The hide is cosy, with comfortable seats and viewing slots at the front, and comfortable beds at the back for those not prepared to sit up all through the night. At the far end is a separate toilet. You will make yourself comfortable and hope for the appearance of a bear whilst your everattentive host serves you drinks and you tuck into your 'picnic' dinner of sandwiches, cheeses, cold meats, salad and fruit. Brown Bears can appear at any time during the night, so it pays to remain awake, and A Brown Bear appears in the clearing (Kerrie Porteous) Naturetrek March 16 5
watching, for as long as you are able (though any sleepers will, of course, be woken should a bear appear in the clearing at any stage). Day 5 Fly London You will remain in the hide during the early morning. There may still be a chance of a passing Bear, but whether or not you are in luck, it is fascinating to watch the forest come alive as the rays of the morning sun warm the clearing and the species in it. Jays and, particularly, Ravens may amuse you with their human-like squabbles, tussles and social interaction; birds of prey (perhaps a Sparrowhawk, or even a Goshawk or Honey Buzzard) slip quietly in and out of the clearing in search of prey; and forest tits, Spotted Flycatchers, Crossbills and other passerines are at their most active, restlessly flitting about in search of food. You will be able to enjoy breakfast in the hide as this scene unfolds. Then, as activity begins to diminish, you will pack up and leave the hide for the walk back down through the forest to the lakeside lodge, enjoying what wildlife you may encounter en route, and appreciating the enveloping stillness and beautiful scenery. Around mid-morning, it is time to pack and drag yourself away from this peaceful spot in order to make the 3-hour drive back to Västerås airport for the direct midafternoon flight with Ryanair back to London Stansted. Grading A/B. An average level of fitness is necessary to enjoy the walking offered on this holiday. You will spend much of the day, as well as at night after dark, taking short walks through wild forest, sometimes on animal, rather than man-made, tracks. The paths and tracks are generally good (though sometimes boggy in places). The walk to the bear hide requires about 20 minutes of gentle ascent through the forest, with the wettest parts of the path covered by wooden boards. Please note that as Elk generally appear around dusk, and wolf-howling is carried out after dark, there will be some late nights on this tour! Mornings, however, will be taken at a much more leisurely pace. Focus Beaver excursion at dusk (Jan Nordstrom) Mammals, particularly Elk, Beavers, Wolves and Brown Bears. Birds, butterflies and other aspects of natural history may also be enjoyed. NB - Most European mammals are generally shy and retiring Naturetrek March 16 6
in their habits and most active at dawn and dusk. Sightings of the species outlined above, therefore, cannot be guaranteed. Food & accommodation included in the price All food and accommodation is included in the price of this holiday, except for Days 1 and 5 when lunch is likely to be purchased, at your own expense, in a local shop or at the airport (depending on your flight times). For three nights you will be staying at Udden Guesthouse, a small, family owned, lakeside guesthouse where the food served includes the hosts own farm produce. Most rooms have private bathrooms, although the guesthouse does also have two rooms sharing one en suite bathroom which may be allocated to our group on rare occasions. On your last night, you will stay in the Bear Hide at Vargas Wilderness Lodge. This is a well-constructed log cabin that is warm and cosy, with comfortable seats and viewing slots at the front, and comfortable beds (with pillow, sheets, duvet and rug) at the back for those not prepared to sit up all through the night. At the far end is a separate, shared toilet. Flights Please note that whilst our preference is to fly to Vasteras airport from London Stansted, the Ryanair schedule does not always fit in with our trip dates as flights do not depart daily. If we are unable to fly to Vasteras, we will instead take an early morning flight from London Heathrow to Stockholm Arlanda with British Airways or Scandinavian Airlines, and transfer north from there. Whilst the transfer time is a little longer on arrival, the flight timings generally mean that you enjoy the same amount of time in Sweden itself. Weather The weather and temperatures are comparable with what you would expect in the UK at the same season, though more sunshine can generally be expected. If anything, summers can be a little warmer, and nights a little colder, than in the UK. How to book your place Campfire under the stars in Wolf territory (Marcus Westberg) In order to book your place on this holiday, please give us a call on 01962 733051 with a credit or debit card, book online at www.naturetrek.co.uk, or alternatively complete and post the booking form at the back of our main Naturetrek brochure, together with a deposit of 20% of the holiday cost plus any room supplements if required. If you do not have a copy of the brochure, please call us on 01962 733051 or request one via our website. Naturetrek March 16 7
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