LOMBOK THE BALI OF LONG AGO There s lots to love about Bali, Bintang singlets and braided hair aside, but if you re the kind of tourist who prefers volcano trekking and deserted beaches over crowds, or pristine waterfalls and striking sunsets over shopping strips, then Lombok might be more your style. On a mission to get a taste of the local Sasak culture and escape the Bali hoards, Chris heads to Lombok, Bali s quieter cousin, to explore the island often referred to as the Bali of long ago.
ABOUT LOMBOK Nestled between the islands of West Nusa Tenggara and Bali, Lombok is roughly the same size as its more famous neighbour, albeit far more understated. It s a haven for explorers and home to Indonesia s second highest volcano, Gunung Rinjani, where hikers can navigate the numerous rivers, hot springs, waterfalls and breathtaking crater lake surrounding the summit. In the south lie Lombok s idyllic beaches where tourists can interact with monkeys and relax away from the party going masses. West of Lombok are the Gili islands where traffic is banned and people traverse on horse and cart. Here tourists can walk along powdery white shores, enjoy the watersports on offer or come face to face with green sea turtles, octopus and a host of other peculiar animals living in the nearby reefs. Lombok is around 30 minutes by plane from Bali s capital, Denpasar, or 1.5-2 hours by boat from Padang Bai or Serangan in Bali s east. Currently there are no direct flights from Australia to Lombok. Benang Kelambu Waterfall
KUTA, LOMBOK This is not Bali s bustling, boozy Kuta, famed for its popularity amongst Australian partygoers. Lombok s Kuta is a charming southern coastal town, surrounded by cliffs and mountains with some of the best beaches in Indonesia (think white sands, blue-green water, and barely a soul in sight). Kuta also boasts some incredible waves within easy reach of the tiny town, attracting its fair share of dedicated surfers who come to escape the bustle of more famous surf destinations. Along a 7km coastline, those after some exercise can climb the small peaks on the edge of the beach or head two kilometres further east along the coast to snorkel in the tranquil waters of Seger Beach, or stroll along the picturesque white sands. Kuta is located approximately 50 km from Mataram, Lombok s capital city, and around 30 minutes from Bandera International, Lombok s only airport. If travelling by boat from Bali, tickets to Kuta, Lombok, can be purchased with any tour operator, or at the Padang Bai Harbour, Bali. Public ferries depart every hour from the harbour and take around 4-5 hours, arriving in Lembar Harbour, 50km from Kuta, Lombok.
BEACHES SELONG BELANAK BEACH West of Kuta you ll find Pantai Selong Belanak (Pantai means beach in Indonesian). It has the reputation of being one of the cleanest and most picturesque beaches in Lombok, largely due to its crescent shaped shoreline and absence of large waves, which keep the water perfectly clear. The beach is bordered by peaks at either end and on the southern side you ll come across 40 local fishermen and their families who fish in the adjoining waters. Those wishing to swim and relax in the powdery sand can park themselves along the central and northern areas of the beach. MAWUN BEACH East of Selong Belanak and west of Kuta is the secluded, horseshoe-shaped bay of Mawun Beach. Here locals congregate under the shade of a large tree, while a couple of venders sell cold drinks. Like Selong Belanak, Mawun, too, houses twin peaks at either end which can be climbed by more energetic visitors and swimmers are advised to stick to the eastern and western ends of the beach where the water is cleaner and calmer.
TETEBATU Nicknamed the Ubud of Lombok, Tetebatu is a small, culturally rich village nestled nearby the southern slopes of Mount Rinjani National Park. The surrounding area is a walker s paradise, overflowing with streams, rice paddies, fruit orchards, tobacco farms and rich volcanic soil. Those wishing to spend more time in Tetebatu should consider booking a homestay, where travellers can experience life with a traditional Indonesian family and get a feel for the local flavour, while exploring the region. Ayan Taliwang is a grilled or fried chicken dish native to Lombok, and eaten by the Sasak people, who make up 85% of the island s population. It s traditionally eaten by hand. Chris and the crew travelled to Tetebatu with A&T holidays. For more information visit: www.lombokandbeyond.com/
THE GILI ISLANDS The Gili Islands are a collection of three miniscule desert islands, famous for their white sand beaches, coconut palms, and glimmering turquoise waters. They re located just off the northwest coast of Lombok and accessible by boat from the mainland. No cars or motorbikes are allowed on the islands so goods are transported by horse and cart, bicycle or on foot. Of the three islands, Gili Trawangan is often described as the largest and most social island, offering a variety of accommodation options, restaurants, great snorkeling spots and a lively nightlife. At the other end of the spectrum is Gili Meno, the smallest of the three island and a romantic escape for honeymooners wishing to avoid the backpackers. Closest to Lombok is Gili Air, a mix of the two, offering a laid back environment, but still with plenty of activities to keep travellers entertained. Aside from the most expensive resorts, most hotels use wellwater for showers as fresh water must be delivered by boat.
DIVING IN THE SECRET GARDEN Diving in the Secret Garden offers a fantastic opportunity to discover the vibrant array of native flora and fauna around the Gili Islands including the rare Ghost Pipe Fish as well as Green Sea Turtles and Blue Spotted Stingrays. The Secret Garden is suitable for all levels, from beginners to advanced and is located 5 minutes boat ride from Manta Dive School, on the eastern coast of Gili Air. The reef s depth ranges between 5-22m. For more information on diving visit: http://www.scubafroggy.com/
NEST Located in the waters just of Gili Meno, Nest is an underwater installation by worldrenowned sculptor, Jason decaires. It consists of 48 life sized human figures, which over time will transform into a fully-fledged reef as marine life begins to grow and make their home in amongst the artwork. Nest is free to visit and is located within swimming distance from the soon-to-be-completed beach club at BASK Gili Meno. Make sure to bring a snorkel and flippers. For more information visit: https://www.baskgilimeno.com/nest-jason-decaires-taylor/
WEBLINKS www.indonesia.travel/en/destination/area/l ombok www.indonesia.travel www.lombokandbeyond.com www.bluewater-express.com www.scubafroggy.com www.pesonalomboksumbawa.travel www.garuda-indonesia.com www.ombakparadise.com