How I Built the Royal William 1 st. Rate English Vessel Launched in 1719 Scale 1:72 Manual 4 of 7 Masts (version 5) This build manual was based on the original text supplied by Euromodel and then expanded in detail as the actual ship was constructed by the author, Peter Coward. Neither the author or Euromodel have any commercial interest in this manual and it is published on the Euromodel web site in good faith for other persons who may wish to build this ship. Euromodel does not accept any responsibility for the content that follows. 1
To Massimo Whose untold generosity as owner of Euromodel G.B.M. Snc inspired me to translate his plans and instructions. Who opened his family to my family and maintained a long relationship via the Internet between Adelaide, South Australia and Como, Italy. Who also inspired me whilst building a kit model of the Royal William to create a documented manual of construction for others to utilize. To him I owe much To All Ship Builders Who Read This Document The following text is NOT necessarily a prescriptive one for you to follow. This manual is one of seven I have written for the Royal William. It is a documentation of what I personally did to build the ship utilizing the provided kit and supplementing with additional material as I felt moved to do so. No two ships from the same kit will or should ever look the same. I simply wish to share my efforts with you! Reference Text The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625 1860 by James Lee (1984). Another indispensable book! Without this, the masting and especially the rigging would have been difficult. The Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War 1650-1850 by Peter Goodwin (1984) Historic Ship Models by Wolfram zu Mondfeld (1989). 2
[To navigate through the contents use control + click ] Contents Colours... 6 RECENT CHANGES TO MANUAL... 7 Chapter 1: MASTS... 8 Components... 9 Diameters & Lengths... 10 Construction... 11 Mast Cap... 11 Rope Wooldings... 12 fid Hole... 13 Trucks... 13 Partners... 13 Crosstrees... 14 Tops... 14 Raking... 14 Chapter 2: BOWSPRIT... 15 Hull Entry... 15 Bowsprit Mast [21]... 15 Jibboom [22]... 16 Sprit Topmast Knee... 16 Sprit Topmast [23]... 16 Mast Caps... 16 Top [47]... 17 Crosstree [48]... 18 Chapter 3: FOREMAST... 19 Foremast [25]... 19 Rope Wooldings... 20 Foremast Top [49]... 20 Topmast [26]... 22 Topmast Crosstree [50]... 23 Topgallant Mast [27]... 25 Topgallant Crosstree [51]... 25 Flagstaff [28]... 25 3
Chapter 4: MAIN MAST... 26 Main Mast [29]... 26 Mast Cap... 26 Rope Wooldings... 26 Top [52]... 27 Main Topmast [30] & Topgallant Mast [31]... 28 Flagstaff [32]... 28 Chapter 5: MIZZEN MAST... 29 Mizzen Mast [33]... 29 Top [55]... 30 Topmast [34]... 31 Flagstaff [35]... 31 4
Illustrations [The figures below are not hyperlinked] Figure 1: Mast 'Doubling' between the Flagstaff & Topgallant Masts... 6 Figure 2: Mast 'Doubling' & Top Typically Painted Completely Black... 6 Figure 3: Foremast of the Royal William... 6 Figure 4: Topmast, Crosstree & Topgallant Typically Painted Black... 6 Figure 5: Mast General Configuration... 11 Figure 6: Keeping the Mast Holes Separated... 11 Figure 7: Beginning Woolding Serving... 12 Figure 8: Finishing Woolding Serving... 12 Figure 9: The Mast 'fid' Hole... 13 Figure 10: Truck... 13 Figure 11: Typical Crosstree... 14 Figure 12: Typical Mast Top... 14 Figure 13: Determing Bowsprit Angle... 15 Figure 14: Bowsprit Mast Entry Under Prow Deck... 15 Figure 15: Thumb Cleats for Holding the Gammoning Ropes in Place... 15 Figure 16: Bowsprit Saddles for Supporting the Jibboom... 15 Figure 17: Sprit Topmast & Knee... 16 Figure 18: Bowsprit Cap Sizes... 16 Figure 19: Orientation of Top Cut-Out... 17 Figure 20: Bowsprit Crosstrees & Trestletrees... 17 Figure 21: Bowsprit Top Arrangement... 17 Figure 22: Trestletrees & Crosstrees in Position... 18 Figure 23: Sprit Topmast Crosstree... 18 Figure 24: Foremast Addendums... 19 Figure 25: Modified Cheek... 19 Figure 26: Woolding... 20 Figure 27: Foremast Top Timbers... 20 Figure 28: Foremast Top Upper Surface (unpainted)... 20 Figure 29: Foremast Top Lower Surface (unpainted)... 20 Figure 30: Foremast Trestletree Dimensions... 21 Figure 31: Foremast Crosstree Dimensions... 21 Figure 32: Drilling Holes in the Foremast Top... 22 Figure 33: Fitting the Topmast... 22 Figure 34: Topmast Addendums... 23 Figure 35: Typical Crosstree... 23 Figure 36: Topmast with Crosstree... 24 Figure 37: Topgallant Mast... 25 Figure 38: Main Mast Addendums... 26 Figure 39: Main Mast Top Timbers... 27 Figure 40: Main Mast Trestletree Dimensions... 27 Figure 41: Main Mast Crosstree Dimensions... 27 Figure 42: Mizzen Trestletree Dimensions... 30 Figure 43: Mizzen Crosstree Dimensions... 30 5
Colours Figure 1: Mast 'Doubling' between the Flagstaff & Topgallant Masts Colour is very much up to the modeler to choose. Whilst the use of colour particularly ochre was common in many British naval ships around this time, natural timber was also just as common. This page depicts the use of this latter approach. Figure 2: Mast 'Doubling' & Top Typically Painted Completely Black Figure 3: Foremast of the Royal William Natural varnish finish for the topmasts above the mast cap with again black for the hounds, crosstrees, and topmast cap. Varnished topgallant masts with black up to the topmast cap and again for the hounds (Fig. 4) Figure 4: Topmast, Crosstree & Topgallant Typically Painted Black 6
RECENT CHANGES TO MANUAL Version 2 to Version 3 Editing Foremast Topmast (Chp. 3, p. 20) Editing Foremast Topgallant (Chp. 3, p. 21) Changing of photographs on page depicting colour use (p. 6) Version 3 to Version 4 Notes on mast cheeks (Chp. 3, p.18) Notes on mast raking (Chp. 1, p.13) Notes on rope woolding (Chp. 1, p. 11) Change of measurement data in Foremast Trestletree [Table 1] (Chp. 3, p.20) Addition of comment to data in Foremast Crosstree [Table 2] (Chp.3, p.20) Editing construction notes on Foremast Top (Chp. 3, pp. 19,20) Version 4 to Version 5 Reflections on my mast-making efforts (p. 8) Pages numbers change after page 8 due to addition of above comments. Edited comments on colour (p. 6) Editing of presentation for trestletree and crosstree top data Drawing correction for mast cheek size (Chp. 5, p. 29) Editing of notes on crosstree construction for sprit topmast (Chp. 2, p. 18) 7
REFLECTIONS ON MY MAST-MAKING (final comments placed at the beginning) Any range of modifications can be made to the construction of the masts and the drawings certainly suggest some of these. If you choose to do some research, then more bewildering changes will become obvious. The following points cover I hope some of the things that I chose to do (or not do). It is important to remember that this is a manual of what I did, not a prescription of what you should or must do! The wooden rods supplied in the kit I decided to replace with walnut and the photographs reflect this change, but this is an added expense. The wood supplied is much easier to work with and can be left natural or stained. I just felt that the walnut looked more natural. The wood supplied is that commonly used in kits by other manufacturers so this is no reflection on Euromodel. Tapering the mast sections was easy with a small lathe I have. Not everybody has a lathe, so for many this all-important work will need to be done by hand (with much patience). The tops of each mast section typically have a square section topped with a square tenon section that fits into the mast cap. Some of the drawings use a symbol suggesting a dimensions as a diameter implying a circle. Not so. I aimed to create square tenons but I must admit to using a rounded tenon by the time I got to working on the uppermost and smallest - mast cap. Maybe I just lost patience but the square hole in the mast cap was so small and being painted over, I just felt a little cheating was OK! It is worth noting that Continental ships did not have that squared upper section to the mast but simply continued the rounded form to the top. Things like the cheeks were supported against the rounded surface by specially shaped chocks. This could be an excuse for not producing the squared sections. The squared section of the mast foot also poses a problem. Using the supplied rod, it is difficult (impossible) to create the off-set squared section of the specified dimensions without resorting to some alternative method. Things that I considered and used were pinning on a separate squared piece to the bottom of the mast or using a larger diameter rod to start off with. As a complete alternative, you could choose to ignore the finer detail of the mast foot and simply utilize the rounded form right through to the bottom of the mast section! The fid holes are an integral part of the upper mast section supports where they are seated in the tops & crosstrees. You could choose to ignore these. Your call! In summary, this model aims to be authentic in its construction but how far you choose to follow this regime is up to you. 8
Chapter 1: MASTS The first step was to produce each mast section, each with its square tenon at the upper end (excluding the flagstaffs) which then will determine the size of the squared hole required for the applicable mast cap (refer to Construction) Components 12 x 480 mm. (1), 10 x 750 mm. (1) ; 10 x 450 mm. (1) ; 8 x 650 mm. (1); 8 x 690 mm. (1); 6 x 550 mm. (1); 6 x 550 mm. (1); 6 x 420 mm. (1); 5 x 700 mm. (1); 5 x 650 mm. (1); 5 x 200 mm. (1); 4 x 350 mm. (1); 3 x 200 mm. (1); 3 x 660 mm. (1);1 x 580mm. (1) Explanatory Note Where the size below is described as 7 i.e. 8 mm., this indicates that the drawing diameter is 7 mm. and that 8 mm. has been provided in the kit to allow the builder to reduce the size down to 7 mm. A: Bowsprit 21: Bowsprit Mast Albero di bompresso (10.5 i.e. 10 mm.) 22: Jibboom Asta di fiocco (5 mm.) 23: Sprit Topmast - Alberetto di civada - (5 mm.) 24: Sprit Topmast Flagpole - Asta di bandiera di civada (2 mm.) B: Foremast 25:Fore Mast Albero di trinchetto (10 mm.) 26:Fore Topmast- Albero di parrocchetto (7 i.e. 8 mm.) 27:Fore Topgallant Mast Albero di velaccino (4 mm.) 28: Flagstaff Asta per bandiera (2.5 i.e. 3 mm.) C: Main Mast 29:Main Mast - Albero di maestra (12 mm.) 30:Main Topmast Albero di gabbia (8 mm.) 31:Main Topgallant Mast Albero di velaccio (5 mm.) 32: Flagstaff Asta per bandiera (2.5 i.e. 3 mm.) D: Mizzen Mast 33:Mizzen Mast Albero di mezzana (8 mm.) 34:Mizzen Topmast Albero di contromezzana (6 mm.) 35: Flagstaff Asta per bandiera (2.5 i.e. 3 mm.) Yards 36: Spritsail Yard Pennone di civada (5 mm.) 37: Upper Spritsail Yard Pennone di controcivada (3 mm.) Yards 38: Fore Yard Pennone di trinchetto (7 i.e. 8 mm.) Studding Sail Booms (4 mm.) 39: Topsail Yard Pennone di parrocchetto (5 mm.) Studding Sail Booms (2 mm.) 40: Topgallant Yard Pennone di velaccino (3.5 i.e. 4 mm.) Yards 41: Main Yard Pennone di maestra (9 i.e. 10 mm.) Studding Sail Booms (3 mm.) 42: Topsail Yard Pennone di gabbia (5.5 i.e. 6 mm.) Studding Sail Booms (2 mm.) 43: Topgallant Yard Pennone di velaccio (4.5 i.e. 5 mm.) Yards 44: Mizzen Yard Pennone di mezzana (6 mm.) 45: Topsail Yard Pennone di belvedere (4.5 i.e. 5 mm.) 46: Lateen Antenna di mezzana (5.5 i.e. 6 mm.) 9
Diameters & Lengths Individual mast section lengths will need to be cut from the supplied longer lengths in the kit. These lengths (and their diameters) are shown in the table below. The kit lengths (which allow a small excess) are indicated by the grouped shading. Example: Bowsprit Mast 21 and Foremast 25 have finished lengths of 295 and 385 mm. respectively and will be cut from a kit length that is 700 mm. long. The lower mast lengths (each indicated by an asterisk * ) in the table below are the correct lengths and represent a correction made to an error in the drawings. This has been remedied in Euromodel s production but in my kit, the lengths provided were shorter. This meant that an additional length (pinned and glued) was added to the base of each of the three masts. This made up for the increased length required to allow the masts to properly fit into the mast seats in the false keel. The yard + studding sail boom combinations are indicated by broken lines. These are discussed in Manual 5. MASTS Diameters 12 10 8 6 5 4 3 2 BOWSPRIT No. Lengths 21 295 22 291 23 102 24 60 36 267 37 133 FOREMAST 25 *432 26 259 27 150 28 35 38 373 416 39 235 244 40 156 MAIN 29 *470 30 289 31 173 32 85 41 426 463 42 290 298 43 189 MIZZEN 33 *372 34 213 35 85 44 516 45 188 46 400 10
Construction Mast Cap The diameter of the topmast passing through the mast cap will determine the diameter of the round hole. MAST CAP The finished width of the square tenon passing into the mast cap will determine the size of the square hole. crosstree trestletree Looking at the original set of mast caps, there was a large variation in colour and along with the fact that most will be 30: Main Topmast sandpapered that colour Albero di gabbia (10 mm.) variation will increase? mast cheek That will not be a problem as all mast caps will be painted black! MAST TOP The mast cap material supplied in the kit is fairly basic and some pieces will need modifying. Taking the diagrams of mast caps literally at the bottom of Plan Sheet 11, it is apparent that ALL caps have one round hole and one square hole. Examination of the drawings immediately above them in the drawings show the tenon at one end of most masts have a dimension quoted as, e.g., 4.5 meaning a diameter of 4.5 mm. In actual fact, this seems to be referring to the width of the square tenon! 29: Main Mast Albero di maestra (12 mm.) rope woolding Figure 5: Mast General Configuration Modification was necessary to the mast cap pieces Figure 6: Keeping the Mast Holes Separated supplied but generally their dimensions conformed to what is needed. In making the two holes in the blank pieces, it was essential to take measurements from the drawings, particularly Plan Sheet 11 to keep the correct separation between the two holes (shown by the red arrow in Fig. 6). This was achieved by measuring the distance between the centre lines of the two masts (broken blue lines). Until 1820, the corners of the mast caps were slightly rounded (refer to Fig. 36). I chose to make this small change to the mast cap. Initially, I was critical of Euromodel for not providing mast cap pieces with holes already in them but soon realized that the final hole sizes can only be determined once the mast sections have been finished (i.e. there will be variations in the final width of masts produced by individual builders) 11
Rope Wooldings According to the authoritative text by James Lee (1984), the rope woolding width on all masts was 12 inches which on this model equates to 4.23 mm. However, Mondfeld (1989) suggests that the woolding width was the same as the mast diameter. Another reference I found suggested half the mast diameter. This latter comment somewhat confirms Lee s guideance. Mondfeld suggests that the rope used was 1 inch diameter (i.e. 0.35 mm. on this scale). The drawings in this kit state 1 mm. rope. I finished up using 0.8 mm. black rope sizes are variable out there in the market so your choice could be different. This comment and the previous one highlight how research can be useful, distracting and confusing. The wooldings were evenly spaced along the mast length. When serving the woolding on an actual ship, the beginning of the rope was attached to the mast with three nails with a leather button under each. For this kit build, I used the following method One end of the rope is bent into an extended loop and then served over as shown in Fig. 7. Figure 7: Beginning Woolding Serving After creating the correct number of turns, the end is inserted through the loop and pulled tightly underneath the top few turns (Fig. 8). Any conspicuous bulge is then gently tapped down with a hammer. The ends are then cut off. Figure 8: Finishing Woolding Serving The number of wooldings on the Foremast is one less (five) than on the Main Mast (six). Wooden hoops (1.5 inches equating to approx. 0.5 mm. on this model) were nailed above and below each rope woolding. This is something extra that could be incorporated. 12
fid Hole At various stages the fid hole needs to be created in the masts. A fid (wooden or metal peg) is fitted into this hole and its projections from the hole rest on the trestletrees to stop the topmast from sliding through. That is used for the Royal William although another common approach was to match up two similar holes in the two adjacent masts and then slide the fid through both. Figure 9: The Mast 'fid' Hole Trucks The truck is a protective covering in the shape of a rounded wooden disc that protects the mast end grain from weathering. These can easily be fashioned out of scrap timber or purchased commercially. Figure 10: Truck Partners The masts were held in position by a circular series of mast wedges or partners (sometimes collectively referred to as the mast heel) between the decking and the mast itself and frequently covered by a canvas fairing called the mast coat. 13
Crosstrees The main crosstrees were two horizontal pieces spreading the upper shrouds to support the mast. Topmast crosstrees were similar but consisted of three pieces to support the topgallant and royal shrouds. At the head of lower masts, crosstrees were used to support platforms (i.e. tops) Figure 11: Typical Crosstree Tops Platforms known as tops were fitted on the lower crosstrees, Up till the 17th. century they were circular but by the beginning of the 18th. century, the rear edge began to be straightened out such as is seen in the Royal William. From the middle of the 17th. century onwards, the tops were all painted black. Figure 12: Typical Mast Top Raking According to Goodwin (1987) the Foremast and Main Mast were generally set at an angle of 90 o to the keel although they sometimes inclined aft at an angle of 1 0. the Mizzen Mast was inclined aft somewhere between 4-5 0. In reality, the situation was a little more complicated with the ship s master adjusting the rakes to his own wishes in order to gain a small advantage in speed and manoeuvrability. Using the very bottom edge ruled margin on the plan sheet (11) as a guide to the line of the keel, the Foremast and Main Mast were determined as above (i.e. 90 o, no inclination). Likewise, the Mizzen Mast was inclined aft at 3 0. 14
Chapter 2: BOWSPRIT Figure 13: Determing Bowsprit Angle cutting tool on my power Dremel tool to VERY carefully enlarge this hole to the correct diameter and a suitable depth I ran mine in approx 25 mm. depth. I thought this would be a difficult task but it proved quite simple. Hull Entry To determine the angle of the bowsprit, I calculated how much above the stem post the bowsprit would be. Examination of the plans shows that a small portion of the bowsprit intrudes into the bow deck before going into the hull. Knowing that the bowsprit is 10.5 mm. in diameter when it enters the hull, I carefully cut through the second planking with a sharp knife to avoid any splintering when creating the actual hole (well, that was the idea but the photo will show otherwise). I drilled a relatively small hole (3 mm.) at the approximate bowsprit angle and then used a small Figure 15: Thumb Cleats for Holding the Gammoning Ropes in Place Figure 14: Bowsprit Mast Entry Under Prow Deck Bowsprit Mast [21] The strange thing about the length is that the stated length (235 mm.) is greater than the drawn length (216 mm.). I used the stated length. [Reason: Admiralty Charts around this era show 69 87 feet for a bowsprit on a first-rate ship which on a scale of 1:72 used for the RW, the length would be 292 368 mm. Now 216 mm. would only represent 51 feet which I felt was a little on the short side!] Using 12mm. walnut rod (my own, not from the kit, which offers only limewood), I turned the 12mm. diameter down to 10.5mm at one end and tapered the second half (towards aft) down to 5.5mm. Whilst buying the extra replacement wood was an extra cost, it allowed me to take longer lengths to work with which is very useful on a lathe. The finishing of the bowsprit is discussed below. Figure 16: Bowsprit Saddles for Supporting the Jibboom 15
Jibboom [22] I used 6 mm. rod whilst the end diameter is indicated as 5 mm., the boom enlarges slightly to 5.5 mm before tapering down to 4 mm. (the plan sheet indicates 3 mm. but measurement off the drawing shows 4 mm. tapering back to 3 mm. this would be better than 3 mm. tapering back to something like 2 mm.). The saddles shown in Fig. 6 I found out later are better added after the bowsprit top is in place. This then allows you to determine the correct depth needed for the saddles in order that the attached jibboom will pass neatly through the opening in the top.. Sprit Topmast Knee [Lees, 1984] states that the width of the knee is half that of the bowsprit. So using some scrap walnut, a knee was constructed as one piece with a maximum cross-section of 5 x 3 mm. The sides were slightly chamfered and the top edge slightly rounded. The surface of the bowsprit taking this knee was carefully flattened. Sprit Topmast [23] The foot of the mast is clearly shown in Plan Sheet 3 as having a length of 11 mm. In actual fact, the length is 22 mm. when measured. Also, the stated length (102 mm.) is less than the drawn length (107 mm.). I used the drawn length. [Reason: Admiralty Charts around this Figure 17: Sprit Topmast & Knee era show 26 28 feet for a sprit topmast on a first-rate ship. On a scale of 1:72 used for the RW, that length would be 110 118 mm. So, 107 mm. seems to be better than 102 mm. (24 feet real measurement)] The topmast can be fixed in position but not the mast cap until the crosstrees/trestletress are put on. Mast Caps The following caps are required Drawing shows a 12.5 x 6 x 3 mm. size create from a 16 mm. piece as shown here or leave as same. Figure 18: Bowsprit Cap Sizes 16
Top [47] A supporting base (41 mm. diameter, 1 mm. thick plywood) was cut out and then covered with 3 x 1 mm. strips of walnut. The raised edge was made from 2 x 2 mm. very flexible beech there are much cheaper alternatives to this timber but I had some in my scrap box and it was just so easy to bend. After this was glued on, I then sanded the edge thickness down so that it was then 2 x 1 mm. Battens (2 x 0.5 mm.) were fixed in place radially on the top upper surface. Two sets of three holes (red arrows in Fig. 9) will need to be drilled through the raised edge to allow the chain plates to pass through. The whole assembly was then painted black. There were no specific drawings for the trestletree & crosstree construction but it is illustrated in Fig. 19 and their dimensions are given below. Figure 19: Orientation of Top Cut-Out Crosstree & Trestletrees The crosstrees supporting the top (and the trestletrees underneath that supported the crosstrees) were constructed and pieced together taking care that the distance between the trestletrees is the same as the width of the square base of the topmast. crosstree trestletree Figure 20: Bowsprit Crosstrees & Trestletrees trestletree topmast knee jibboom crosstree Support Dimensions Trestletrees : 1 x 3 x 38 mm.; 1 x 3 x 33 mm. Crosstrees: 1 x 3 x 34 mm. ; 1 x 3 x 27 mm. Figure 21: Bowsprit Top Arrangement 17
With the bowsprit temporarily in position in the hull, this supporting assembly was carefully aligned in a horizontal position and glued onto the bowsprit mast. From Plan Sheet 12, the aft crosstree appears to be passing through (or abutting) the jibboom but as Fig. 22 shows (with red arrow), this did not occur in my build. Figure 22: Trestletrees & Crosstrees in Position Deadeye Attachment The kit does not provide chain plates for this top. I tried using some that I had spare but found that it was far better to improvise using brass wire which was seized around the six deadeyes (3 mm.) and then attached unmderneath to the mast. Crosstree [48] Because of their small size, the crosstrees at this point were difficult to cut it proved easier if I worked from a much greater length and then trimmed to final shape and length after the joints were formed. Support Dimensions Trestletrees : 1.0 x 2.0 x 12 mm. Crosstrees: 1.0 x 1.5 x 13.5 mm. In hindsight, the spacing between the two crosstrees should have been 7.0 mm. rather than the 6.2 mm. shown. A mastcap measuring 2 x 4.5 x 9 mm. was constructed with two circular holes as I considered carving out one of the holes as a square was a little too difficult. The holes needed to be only a maximum of 1.5 mm. apart. To avoid splitting, the holes were first drilled in a larger piece of timber which was then reduced down to the final size. The flagstaff with truck was then fixed in position. Figure 23: Sprit Topmast Crosstree 18
Chapter 3: FOREMAST Foremast [25] Plan Sheet 3 clearly shows the symbol here for diameter suggesting that the tenon is round not so, it is 4.5 mm. square. Tapered square crosssection This drawing, taken from Plan Sheet 3, shows the presence of some mast component that is not evident in either Plan Sheet 11 or 12. I believe it was probably intended as a rubbing strake to prevent undue abrasion by the ship s main stay as it passes the Foremast. At this stage, I decided to follow the latter two sets of drawings and not include this in my construction. This could easily be added (as a series of vertical pieces) on one side of the mast once the stay is in position I might just do that! Plan Sheet 3 shows 70 mm. below deck level in order to fully seat the mast foot into the false keel seat, this should read 147 mm. Total length: 432 mm. Figure 24: Foremast Addendums Mast Cheeks These two (and the other four) were cut from the supplied timber in the kit - walnut, 3 x 25 x 200 mm. The drawings used for these cheeks were easily visible in Plan Sheet 12. The cheeks for the Foremast and Mainmast were positioned at 90 0 to the mast axis whereas the Mizzen Mast cheeks were offset by 3 0. As an English ship, the cheeks were an integral part of the mast. I therefore extended the mast square section down to include the cheeks. If it were Continental, the cheeks would most likely be against the rounded mast and supported by chocks between the round mast and the flat cheeks. The drawings of the cheeks are clear but I decided to introduce Figure 25: Modified Cheek a couple of extra historical accuracies. The square lower edge was slightly rounded as well as being slightly carved. Also, the thickness of the cheeks were tapered downwards to make them appear to merge with the mast. 19
Rope Wooldings From Plan Sheet 11, each of the five wooldings had a width of approx. 5.50 mm. which converts to 15.59 inches on the actual ship. I used six turns of 0.8 mm. rope which when tightly compressed, gave approx. 4.8 mm. (i.e. 13.61 inches). Not too far off the 12 inches that Lee suggested. Mast Cap Drawing shows a 28 x 15 x 7 mm. size could use the 29 x 14 x 5.7 mm. supplied or create another piece. I did the latter. Figure 26: Woolding REMEMBER the final hole sizes can only be determined once the mast sections have been finished Foremast Top [49] The drawings show the platform as consisting of 2 x 4 mm. timbers. I used 0.6 mm. plywood as a base and then covered that with 1 x 5 mm. planking strips on top and 0.5 x 1.0 mm. underneath. I then sand-papered both surfaces to form a mast top of 2.1 mm. thickness. Nominally, then, the platform consisted of 2 x 5 mm. timbers. Top Support Making up the mast top supporting framework are four timbers: trestletrees two pieces 3 x 5 mm., and crosstrees - two pieces 3 x 3 mm. Figure 27: Foremast Top Timbers Fig. 27 is not drawn to scale, but using this along with the table of data and drawings, the four pieces were constructed.. Figure 28: Foremast Top Upper Surface (unpainted) Figure 29: Foremast Top Lower Surface (unpainted) 20
STEP 1: Trestletrees (3 x 5 mm.) Dimension (mm.) A 59 B 17 C 25 D 11 E 3 F 40 G 12 H 7 J 1.5 K 2 K B C D E E G F H A Figure 30: Foremast Trestletree Dimensions J STEP 2: Crosstrees (3 x 3 mm.) Two different length crosstrees are required due to the curved edge. Length-1 Length-2 (mm.) (mm.) A 80 70 B & D, *33 *28 each C *8 *8 E 3 3 F 24 24 G & H, 28 23 each J 1.5 1.5 K 2 2 K A B C D G F H E E J Figure 31: Foremast Crosstree Dimensions * dependent on finished width of square mast tenon Edges The continuous 2 x 3 mm. strip that goes around the edge of the top (except for the aft piece), can be soaked in water and then using an electric plank bender to create the required bends. To be honest, I used some flexible beech to make life easy (but expensive). Bolsters The bolsters that are glued onto the top of the trestletrees are created from 5 x 5 mm. timber and sanded to create a quadrant shape and over which the shrouds will be ultimately pulled down. The plan sheet to me suggests that these quadrants are 5 x 10 mm but in reality the quadrants are made from 5 x 5 mm. and so the total depth of them plus the trestletrees is the 10 mm. indicated. 21
Top Rigging Holes Holes for the deadeyes were drilled along each side as shown by the red arrows in Fig. 32. Holes were also drilled on the front face of the curved edge of the mast top to take the crowsfeet ropes (blue arrows indicate just a few of the rope positions in Fig. 32). Plan Sheet 11 could be a little misleading as to the number of ropes passing through the Figure 32: Drilling Holes in the Foremast Top top edge. Fig. 32 shows 12 rope holes for the Foremast top which is a number frequently used. It comes down to how accurately you might wish to follow the historically-correct method of rigging which is to be found in the Advanced section of Manual 6 in that case the number of holes will be different. I would suggest that at least you read this rigging section. But the basic guide for the let s not get complicated version then, is. Foremast 12 holes Topmast [26] The following illustration of the topmast construction centres around the fact that the mast heel at the bottom is of square cross-section and because of its size could not be made from the 8 mm. rod supplied. There are two choices 1. Ignore the square mast heel altogether and simply utilize the round mast at the base. This ignores a basic part of the mast structure but does make the construction much easier and appearance-wise is satisfactory. 2. Create the mast heel from other timber and then glue + pin to the round mast. More work but I did not consider the procedure too difficult. However, I was intrigued with the foot dimensions of 9.5 x 9.5 mm. when the width between the trestletrees was only 8 mm. I had to assume that the larger measurement was only approximate and would be adjusted to fit into the 8 mm. space. Refer to Fig. 33. fid 8 mm. width between trestletreees therefore stated width of topmast foot of 9.5 mm. must be reduced to fit the width available. Figure 33: Fitting the Topmast 22
Tapered square cross-section of 5.0 mm. with a square tenon of 4.5 mm. In my view, only the mast heel (below) should be square. I made this section round. This conforms also to the drawing. Topmast Heel The heel is thicker than the mast diameter immediately above it. Its offset configuration is easily made by adding on the square piece after the round mast is produced. This length needs to be slightly longer than required & then adjusted when work is completed. Mast heel fid hole production After the mast heel has been added and the glue allowed to form its true adhesion, the mast heel is then cut through at the base of where the fid hole is to be produced. The hole can then be neatly cut out and the cutoff heel glued back on again. Figure 34: Topmast Addendums Mast Cap Drawing shows a 15 x 6.5 x 2.5 mm. size could use the 16 x 8 x 4 mm. supplied or reduce the size down. I did the latter. Topmast Crosstree [50] Making up the framework are four timbers: trestletrees two pieces 2 x 3 mm., and crosstrees - two pieces 1.5 x 3 mm. The curves were readily created by soaking in water and then using an electric plank bender. Figure 35: Typical Crosstree The only joints were in the trestletrees to a depth of 1 mm. so the crosstrees were slightly above the top of the trestletrees. The underside surface of the crosstree was tapered upwards as were the trestletrees. I took the liberty of drilling holes at the ends of the crosstrees not sure if they are needed for the rigging of this ship but crosstrees historically for this time in history DID have the holes. The bolsters were quadrant-shaped from 3 x 3 mm. 23
Figure 36: Topmast with Crosstree 24
square Topgallant Mast [27] The foot of this mast is again of a square cross-section but I used a different procedure to that for the topmast. Given the smaller size, I decided to work from some scrap 8 mm. rod and carefully turned this down to size on a lathe. This allowed me enough material to form the square mast foot without resorting to joining a square piece on as I did before. The top section also is of a square cross-section along with a square tenon. All dimensions are shown in Plan Sheet 3. Without a lathe, I could have resorted to using a rounded mast throughout and again this would have been a satisfactory alternative. Topgallant Crosstree [51] As for [50] above, but this time the trestletrees were 2 x 2 mm. and the crosstrees were 1.5 x 1.5 mm. The bolsters were quadrant-shaped from 2 x 2 mm. square Figure 37: Topgallant Mast Mast Cap Drawing shows a 10 x 6 x 2.5 mm. size could use the 12 x 6 x 3 mm. supplied or reduce the size down. I did the latter. Flagstaff [28] The truck is easily made from scrap timber but is also readily available commercially. 25
Chapter 4: MAIN MAST Main Mast [29] Plan Sheet 3 clearly shows the symbol here for diameter suggesting that the tenon is round not so, it is 7 mm. square. 8 mm. square Rope Wooldings From Plan Sheet 11, some uniformity was required. The number of turns on the Main Mast varied from five to seven with an average width of approx. 6 mm. which equated back to 17.00 inches (i.e. 42% greater than stated by James Lee). There are six wooldings. Plan Sheet 3 shows 70 mm. below deck level in order to seat the mast foot into the false keel seat, this should Total length: 470 mm. read 125 mm.( bottom 53 mm. trimmed back to 10 mm. diameter) Mast Cap Figure 38: Main Mast Addendums I am not sure why, but this block (measuring 7 mm. thick) was missing from my kit. However, it was soon produced from some scrap timber. REMEMBER the final hole sizes can only be determined once the mast sections have been finished 26
Top [52] The drawings show the platform as consisting of 2 x 4 mm. timbers. I used 1 mm. plywood as a base and then covered that with 1 x 5 mm. planking strips. Nominally, then, the platform consisted of 2 x 5 mm. timbers. Top Support Making up the mast top supporting framework are four timbers: trestletrees two pieces 3 x 5 mm., and crosstrees - two pieces 3 x 3 mm. Fig. 39 is not drawn to scale, but using this along with the table of data and drawings, the four pieces were constructed.. Figure 39: Main Mast Top Timbers STEP 1: Trestletrees (3 x 5 mm.) Dimensions (mm.) A 68 B 20 C 28 D 14 E 3 F 44 G 15 H 9 J 1.5 K 2 K B C D E E G F H A Figure 40: Main Mast Trestletree Dimensions J STEP 2: Crosstrees (3 x 3 mm.) Dimensions (mm.) A 92 B & D, *39 each C *8 E 3 F 12 G & H, 34 each J 1.5 K 2 K A B C D G F H E E Figure 41: Main Mast Crosstree Dimensions J * dependent on finished width of square mast tenon 27
Edges The continuous 2 x 3 mm. strip that goes around the edge of the top (except for the aft piece), can be soaked in water and then using an electric plank bender to create the required bends. To be honest, I used some flexible beech to make life easy (but expensive). Bolsters The bolsters that are glued onto the top of the trestletrees are created from 5 x 5 mm. timber and sanded to create a quadrant shape and over which the shrouds will be ultimately pulled down. The plan sheet to me suggests that these quadrants are 5 x 10 mm but in reality the quadrants are made from 5 x 5 mm. and so the total depth of them plus the trestletrees is the 10 mm. indicated. Top Rigging Holes Holes for the deadeyes were drilled along each side as for the Foremast. Holes were also drilled on the front face of the curved edge of the mast top to take the crowsfeet ropes. Plan Sheet 11 could be a little misleading as to the number of ropes passing through the top edge. There is a photo of the Main Mast top with 14 rope holes shown in Manual 6. Is that the correct number of holes? This is the number of holes most frequently used. It comes down to how accurately you might wish to follow the historically-correct method of rigging which is to be found in the Advanced section of Manual 6 in that case the number of holes will be different. I would suggest that at least you read this rigging section. But the basic guide for the let s not get complicated version then, is Main Mast 14 holes Main Topmast [30] & Topgallant Mast [31] The same principles of construction apply here as they did to the Topmast [26] & Topgallant Mast [27]. However, there was a discrepancy between Plan Sheets 3 and 11 with respect to the topmast length a stated 289 mm. and an actual 285 mm. respectively. Given the overall drawing in Plan Sheet 11, it seemed appropriate to go with the shorter length. Your decision! Flagstaff [32] The truck is easily made from scrap timber but is also readily available commercially. 28
Chapter 5: MIZZEN MAST Mizzen Mast [33] The same principles of construction apply here as they did to the Foremast [25] the length will need to be adjusted/added to in order to create a total of 372 mm. The drawing shows a length above deck of 255 mm. but the drawing size is approximately 250 mm. I used the latter measurement. Mast Cheek Correction Length (shown by blue bracket) is square in cross section Mast cheek length (shown by the red bracket) is approx. 25 mm. in Plan Sheet 3 but only 16 mm. in Plan Sheet 11. I leaned towards the latter dimension as being more in proportion with the other masts... but only after I had finished producing this mast section! Since the square section also supports the cheeks, I had to modify 9 mm. of the square section back into a rounded section. 29
Top [55] The same principles of construction apply here as they did to the Foremast Top [49]. However, to account for the mast raking, the top is inclined at 87 o to the axis of the mast (instead of the 90 o for the other two masts). STEP 1: Trestletrees (3 x 5 mm.) Dimensions (mm.) A 50 B 13 C 21 D 10 E 3 F 37 G 8 H 5 J 1.5 K 2 K B C D E E G F H A Figure 42: Mizzen Trestletree Dimensions J STEP 2: Crosstrees (3 x 3 mm.) Dimensions (mm.) A 68 B & D, *28 each C *6 E 3 F 22 G & H, 23 each J 1.5 K 2 K A B C D G F H E E Figure 43: Mizzen Crosstree Dimensions J * dependent on finished width of square mast tenon 30
Edges The continuous 2 x 3 mm. strip that goes around the edge of the top (except for the aft piece), can be soaked in water and then using an electric plank bender to create the required bends. To be honest, I used some flexible beech to make life easy (but it is expensive). Bolsters The bolsters that are glued onto the top of the trestletrees are created from 4 x 4 mm. timber and sanded to create a quadrant shape and over which the shrouds will be ultimately pulled down. The plan sheet to me suggests that these quadrants are 4 x 8 mm but in reality the quadrants are made from 4 x 4 mm. and so the total depth of them plus the trestletrees is the 10 mm. indicated. Top Rigging Holes Holes for the deadeyes were drilled along each side. Holes were also drilled on the front face of the curved edge of the mast top to take the crowsfeet ropes. Plan Sheet 11 could be a little misleading as to the number of ropes passing through the top edge. It comes down to how accurately you might wish to follow the historically-correct method of rigging which is to be found in the Advanced section of Manual 6 in that case the number of holes will be different. I would suggest that at least you read this rigging section. But the basic guide for the let s not get complicated version then, is. Mizzen Mast 10 holes Topmast [34] The same principles of construction apply here as they did to the Topmast [26]. Flagstaff [35] The truck is easily made from scrap timber but is also readily available commercially. 31