COVER FEATURE words Jon Gupta images Jon Gupta and Lee Gosden Jon Gupta is a qualified Winter Mountain Leader and experienced expedition leader with groups both overseas and in the UK. He has recently been in Nepal where he climbed Ama Dablam. Offering trekkers the chance to climb a 6000m peak with just basic mountaineering skills, Island Peak is your ideal first Himalayan summit, says Jon Gupta 14 TREK&MOUNTAIN TREK&MOUNTAIN 15
THE ROUTE: ISLAND PEAK Trekking through the Khumbu region The beautiful trek into Island Peak Base Camp Team member Lee Gosden just about to start up the summit ridge KALA PATAR (5545m) Gorak Shep (5288m) Lobuche (4930m) PUMO RI (7165m) Everest Basecamp (5360m) NUPTSE (7861m) MT. EVEREST (8848m) LHOTSE (8516m) ISLAND PEAK (6180m) Pheriche (4371m) Dingboche (4400m) Island Peak Base Camp (5087m) I sland Peak - or Imja Tse as it s know locally - is a tantalising prospect. At 6,189m it tips over the magical 20,000ft threshold and is a justifiably popular mountain. Soaring high into the sky, Island Peak, a technically straightforward climb, has a superb snowy summit ridge, outstanding 360 0 views across the Himalaya and with easy accessibility, it is no surprise that Island Peak attracts over a thousand trekkers every year. I have just returned from nearly six weeks in the Khumbu, of which some was spend guiding teams on Island Peak for Tim Mosedale Logistics. So what makes Island Peak so great? What equipment do you need to make an ascent? Just how technical is it? Are you ready to take on your first Himalayan giant? HEAD FOR HEIGHTS With around seven lodges to choose from, Chukhung village is your gateway to an ascent on Island Peak. Chukhung is situated five days trekking from Lukla on the north side of Ama Dablam and at the snout of four glaciers which descend the slopes of Nuptse (7861m), Lhotse (8516m) and Ama Dablam (6812m). In Chukhung you are right in the heart of the Khumbu, underneath the enormous south face of the worlds fourth highest mountain, Lhotse, and the imposing north side of Ama Dablam, whose incredible west ridge sweeps right across the skyline towards Island Peak. You are also rewarded with superb views of Taboche, Cholatse and Arakam Tse all over 6000m. Chukhung is usually where you meet your additional local crew, and any last minute gear requirements can be sorted too. Prior to an attempt on Island Peak, most parties will spend an additional day acclimatising in the previous village of Dingboche (4400m), where you can trek leisurely up the slopes of Nangkar Tshang to around 5200m. Most often this will involve an afternoon spent at the Dingboche bakery, drinking tea and sampling pastry delights! Chukhung (4730m) is two to three hours further up the valley and usually the next day a similar pattern is observed taking advantage of the peak just north of the village, Chukhung Ri (5550m). Chukhung Ri is brilliant acclimatisation for Island Peak and should be a must on everyone s itineraries. Not only do you reach 5550m but after just a few hours you are rewarded with sensational views of all the peaks surrounding Chukhung. You can now see over the Nuptse Glacier and across towards Pulmori (7165m) and Cho Oyu (8201m,) and over behind Island Peak to Baruntse and the worlds fifth highest mountain, Makalu (8462m). Whatever you do, make sure you bring a good camera! After a couple of nights at Chukhung you pack your kit and prepare for your trek to Island Peak Base Camp, a pleasant two to three hour trek to 5087m on the south side of Island Peak. Heading south out of Chukhung village you pass over the tumbling Imja Khola river fed by the nearby glaciers here, freezing cold ice formations build up on all exposed surfaces. From here you are on lateral moraine jammed between the Lhotse and Ama Dablam glaciers and, gaining a small ridge turning westerly, you follow the narrow worn path as it ducks and dives over loose, dusty terrain. The path turns again and heads directly towards Island Peak in the Thame (3800m) From Kathmandu Khunde (3820m) Namche Bazaar (3440m) Phakding (2610 m) Lukla (2805m) Tengboche (3870m) Pangboche (3908m) The trail leading towards Island Peak s west face - Base Camp is on the south side AMA DABLAM (6812m) 16 TREK&MOUNTAIN TREK&MOUNTAIN 17
Trekking through old moraine left over by the retreating glaciers Island Peak Base Camp the only place you need to camp out "Almost all the way around its base it is surrounded by glaciers, protecting itself with a maze of deep crevasses like a moat around a castle" distance. After an hour and a half you pass into a large open valley with Island Peak prominent above you at one end and Cholatse at the other end behind you, all the while Ama Dablam stands way above looking down on your progress as you move deeper and deeper into the Khumbu mountains. Just before Base Camp you drop down to the foot of the mountain before easily traversing around to your new home. It was here that I gained a real sense of why they call it Island Peak. I knew from looking at the maps that it is a stand alone mountain, similar to Kilimanjaro for example, and almost all the way around its base it is surrounded by glaciers, protecting itself with a maze of deep crevasses like a moat around a castle. LESS TRODDEN PATH Island Peak summit was first climbed in 1956 by a Swiss team as a training exercise in preparation for Mount Everest and Lhotse. Nowadays around 300 teams try climbing it each year. This may sounds like a lot but, compared to the super-busy peaks like Mont Blanc and Kilimanjaro, Island Peak is relativity quiet and enjoyed often by only a dozen a day during the climbing seasons. Base Camp is tented accommodation only and this is likely to be the first time you camp on the trek. Most agencies have a cook and dining tent where the magic happens and your talented local sherpas will rustle up nutritional energy-filled lunches and dinners for you before the big night. We enjoyed my Nepalese favorite of egg drop tomato soup and a plate of fried potatoes, with some type of coleslaw and hot dog sausages! After a rest for a few hours to adjust to the altitude and to allow the team to move into their new homes, the climbing Sherpa, Hemanta, and I run a technical ropework session where, for the first time, many of the climbers practise using ascenders and descenders. On Island Peak there is a short section where fixed lines are put in for safety and it is imperative that each individual knows how to not only ascend and descend these lines but also how to do it in a systematic, safe and easy method while wearing big gloves! A few hours is spent learning the techniques required jumars, fig 8s, screwgates, cows tails and safety lines take on meaning, their uses are learned and everyone is happy with the prospect of fixed lines high up on Island Peak s glaciated cap. In the early evening we take a leisurely walk along USEFUL GUIDE: n Everest: A Trekker s Guide, by Kev Reynolds, published by Cicerone (www.cicerone. co.uk) 18 TREK&MOUNTAIN TREK&MOUNTAIN 19
On route to Island Peak Base Camp with the Lhotse Glacier just down to the left USEFUL GUIDES: n Trekking In The Nepal Himalaya, by Bradley Mayhew and Jo Bindloss published by Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet. com) the base of the mountain and show the group where the route goes in the morning. We will be setting out for the summit at 01:00 in just over eight hours time, so we head back to camp for an early carb heavy dinner and then to bed. There is an excited buzz in the air over dinner as I explain a few last minute details about what to wear and the importance of keeping warm, hydrated and using rest stops effectively, as well as rough timings and expectations for the summit day. I strongly believe that you should not have to turn back on a summit day for something that is within your control being cold and dehydrated, for example, which leaves only weather, altitude sickness and injury as good reasons for stopping and returning to camp. A few of the team have last minute questions and, once these have been answered and Nalgenes have been filled with boiling water (to act as hot water bottles), I urge the team to head to their tents for five hours sleep. Outside the sky is clear and calm with just a gentle cool breeze against my face. Looking upwards I am mesmerised by the sheer number of stars in the sky. Of all the places in the world to which I have been fortunate enough to have travelled, I have never seen a sky like this. Millions and millions of stars flood the sky, twinkling silently at me, more appearing every second as my eyes slowly adjust to the darkness. The Milky Way is more obvious than ever before, and cutting across the sky behind the skyline of Island Peak, I can see the glow of the night s promised full moon rising slowly. THE ASCENT And so it was, under a bright full moon at 01:12, our little team set out onto the rocky slopes of Island Peak. The moon by now was overhead and, to my delight, we were able to turn off our headtorches. We climbed in silence up the steep rock-strewn terrain of the lower slopes by moonlight alone, just the gentle repetitive crunch underfoot acknowledging our presence. Our shadows from the moon danced softly on the rocks beside us as we made good time up towards High Camp. High Camp is not used by many teams but, at around 5500m, can save a few hours on summit day. However the camp is colder than Base Camp and people are likely to sleep and eat badly here, resulting in poor preparation before the climb. Which is why most teams choose to start their ascent from Base Camp. Just as you would do in the Alps, it s common here to set out for a summit day in the middle of the night. The ground shimmered and sparkled as we passed the deserted High Camp and followed the trail into a narrowing rocky gully. Aventurine is a quartz stone present in much of the rock in the Khumbu, and the shimmering I could see was caused by tiny metallic particles (mica) within the stone. The path was now a mix of fist-sized rocks broken up and scattered across the mountain and the metallic snake of fine mica particles glistening under the bright moon guiding the way, one foot in front of the other. We zig-zagged higher and higher, passing a couple of short easy scrambles where the use of hands was often required to aid balance, but generally these sections were short and we continued up steadily gaining altitude, one foot in front of the other. At altitude you have to move slowly and, at around 5500m, we now had the equivalent oxygen levels of approximately half that at sea level. We 20 TREK&MOUNTAIN
took care not to over-exert ourselves and stopped every hour or so to take a short rest and drink and eat a little. When climbing at altitude it is a fine balance between stopping too much and getting cold, and remaining hydrated and keeping energy levels up. The importance of remaining hydrated during activity is often underestimated and at altitude its necessity is even greater. In fact, most first time altitude climbers are surprised by just how much fluid they need to take on board. Top tip: On your summit day you can help yourself by taking the time to ensure that you are fully hydrated before you leave camp. At around 5600m we turned across the rocky gully and scrambled out onto the spur on the far side and, following a few carefully dotted cairns, traversed around into another wider gully. I noticed that the rocks had changed from lower down and were now generally larger and stacked up in a jumbled heap like giant Jenga. A few paths come and go but meet again all with the same objective of getting you to crampon point a significant waypoint of the summit day where the surface changes from rock to ice at just under 6000m. CRAMPON POINT When we leave Base Camp, our team and most others choose to wear their trekking boots in the name of comfort. Our big boots, crampons, harnesses and helmets are carried up to crampon point by our Sherpa team, and it is here we swap our trekking boots for big double plastics, don harnesses and crampons and rope up for phase two of summit day the glacier, headwall and summit ridge! The glacier is a welcome change of terrain and from crampon point to the base of the fixed lines takes around an hour. For our team the first glow of sunrise begin to show, softly illuminating the sleeping giants of the Khumbu Himalaya all around with pinks and oranges. Only a little altitude is gained while on the glacier but the terrain is interesting, with a few crevasses to cross and jump over. The main trouble maker is usually flagged and can be crossed higher up if necessary. However the glacier is constantly changing and moving and in previous years has required ladders to span the larger crevasses. Surrounded by the lunar-like landscape and soft whiteness of the glacier, I lead my rope team to the base of the fixed lines. We enjoy a drink and a nibble, before clipping our jumars to the fixed lines and beginning our ascent to the summit ridge. This section is by far the steepest on the route and, leading ahead, I keep a careful eye on the team as they shunt their way slowly up the lines, sucking Lee enjoying the perfect summit day, high up on the final ridge MY ISLAND PEAK... Team member Lee Gosden gives his account of summit day A bird s eye view: looking down on Island Peak from the summit of Ama Dablam n It s midnight. Outside the tent I could hear the increasingly persistent requests for action from Jon although polite, a certain edge to his voice is becoming increasingly apparent! My excuses and protestations fall on deaf ears and threats to his manhood are treated with impunity. The ensuing struggle to find and place on my body my thermals, socks, boots and assorted layers in the correct order makes me reflect on the wisdom of being a little more organised the evening before. Too late! And anyway, how did my head torch arrive at the bottom of my sleeping bag! I wish I could say more about the climb to crampon point, but in the dark I tend to withdraw into some fluffy warm place, head down and one foot in front of the other. I was concerned that I was slow but Jon (as always) was ready with encouraging words and it seemed no time at all until we were at crampon point. Still in the dark I made the mistake of briefly removing my down mitts luckily a pair of hand warmers returned some feeling and I managed to attach my crampons, not without a struggle though. My hopping about while booting up produced a warning from Jon regarding the proximity of big drops on either side of us. His concern was appreciated later when we returned in daylight, the steep drops either side a natural alternative to laxatives! Crossing the glacier was spectacular and a welcome relief from climbing. The numerous crevasses looked ominous but some of the snow bridges had been flagged offering some guidance. Roped together, Jon remarked that if I should fall he would pull me out but if he should fall he would get himself out there s confidence for you! As the sun rose the full beauty of our surroundings was slowly revealed, but being caught on the headwall the sun started to cook me. Climbing slower here than the super-fit Jon and feeling the altitude, finally attaining the ridge was heaven. I regretted not using sun block on my face...i was fried! The ridge to the summit produced a spurt of energy and a sudden realisation that we had made it and all the effort was worthwhile. The view from the summit was absolutely breathtaking. The weather was perfect, not a breath of wind and a 360 degree view of some of the finest mountain views imaginable. Below us a few climbers could be seen crossing the glacier but we had the mountain to ourselves. After a while of quiet reflection, a few photos (I wish I had taken more), the inevitable high five and it was time to descend. Jon s professionalism, patience and encouragement made Island Peak a reality for me and his excellent company also made this an all-round enjoyable experience. 22 TREK&MOUNTAIN TREK&MOUNTAIN 23
TRAINING AND TECHNIQUES The basic mountaineering skills required on Island Peak "In every direction a vast sea of snowcapped giants soars high into the sky" On the glacier just before sunrise a welcome change from the rock and scree 1 Training day! This image is from just above Island Peak Base Camp during the afternoon training session. Lee is learning how to ascend and descend a fixed line for the first time we repeat until he is happy and confident with his jumar and fig 8 devices. On summit day there is aproximately 100m of fixed lines to overcome, so practice is very important! 2 On the fixed lines the team took the rope off and used the lines in place. Here Jon is at the top of the fixed lines on the main ridge re-coiling the rope and sorting out gear ready to continue. Keeping all your ropes and gear neat and tidy is crucially important. 3 Back on the glacier during the descent, Jon again checks his gear and organises ropes before continuing on down. in the thin air with each step. The fixed lines look quite imposing from a distance, almost 150m of vertical ice from the glacier up to the summit ridge line. The summit seems close I can see the top but we still have another few hours to go! The fixed lines are split into four or five shorter sections and require change-overs at each point, and this means transferring the jumars across from one line to another while remaining clipped in and safe at all times all well practiced the day before. The headwall with the fixed lines presents the only technicality on the summit day and is at about 45/50 degress with a short steeper exit out onto the ridge, somewhere between winter Scottish 1 and 2 grades. Helmets are essential whilst on the ropes, especially if there is a climber above you, as small pieces of snow and ice can get dislodged and/or kicked down, without the climber above even realising it. My team makes good time and, after just over an hour on the fixed lines, we all make it to the summit ridge. Climbing over a steep lip, I exit onto the ridge, and from here the views really open up. I can t stop a huge smile from spreading across my face. The sun is fully out by now and shining strongly all around, so suncream and sunglasses are absolutely essential snow sunburn and snow blindness must be taken seriously. 4 This is the summit ridge the final sweeping line to the summit. The angle kicks back from the fixed lines to around 20 0. Here Jon is descending the fixed lines, he has two cows-tails clipped onto a fixed line for safety. In this picture he is putting his camera away but to continue he would either use an arm wrap or just a hand on the rope. 5 Here, Jon is climbing up to the base of the fixed lines and creating a small platform before bringing his team up to him. From here they will clip into the fixed lines and continue on their ascent to the summit ridge 100m above 6 Descending the fixed lines back down to the glacier. Jon used a figure of 8 descending device which alows even a stiff, iced rope to run through. The terrain is steep enough to permit abseiling, and is a quick, easy and safe way to get down. The practice Lee did the day before was vital. FINAL STEPS The fixed lines extend to the summit of Island Peak, and after a gentle methodical plod up the final arète of snow, I was taking my last few steps onto the summit of the Isma Tsa at 6189m. In awe of my surroundings, I observe the panorama in silence, absorbing the mountain scenes into my memory, my eyes forced into overdrive to try and take it all in. In every direction a vast sea of snow-capped giants soars high into the sky Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Makalu, Nuptse, Barentse. The mountains surrounding Island Peak feel close, towering high above, strong and powerful, as if looking down on their little sister. To stand on top of any big mountain is a unique and special feeling and incredibly addictive I feel sure that it is one of the world s best natural highs. For you to stand on the summit means that a combination of factors have all come together. With huge effort comes huge rewards though; an indescribable sensation of satisfaction, a feeling belonging just to you, something priceless that no one can ever take away from you, the knowing that you have achieved something worthwhile. For 45 minutes we enjoy the windless summit to ourselves, savouring the moment and taking in one of the best views I have ever seen. With Jon acclimatising on the summit of Chukhung Ri, with Island Peak just behind One of the larger crevasses opening up on the glacier the team rope up for safety 24 TREK&MOUNTAIN TREK&MOUNTAIN 25
ed FEATURE ISLAND PEAK All this gear and more can be found at www.ellis-brigham.com 1 2 3 10 9 8 7 no wind and no cloud, I tilt my head upwards and whisper a thank you to the sky today was our day. My mind is racing with thoughts and already planning my next trip to try and get a different view from another summit. But the summit is only the halfway point on our journey, and the descent is when the majority of accidents happen in mountaineering. I switch my brain back into the reality of the situation in hand and we begin our descent down the ridge towards the top of the fixed lines. Just over an hour later we are safely back at crampon point and are met by one of our Sherpa team with hot juice and biscuits. We switch back to trekking boots and lose our harnesses, ropes and crampons I finally relax again, the hard work is over. As I look out across the view in front I smile to myself, content with the day that has been a great day in the office! The descent is a direct retrace of the morning s ascent and altitude is lost quickly as we pass familiar sections until eventually we get to the site of High Camp and realise that Base Camp is only 45 minutes away. Tired legs and weary heads fumble down the loose rocky trails and everything has a new light as the time is now nearly midday. Looking back we can see that it is now windy higher up and the first signs of small lenticular clouds forming up near the summit encourage an egotistic smile; we had done our job, executed a plan and achieved the ultimate goal summit success. T&M The Knowledge: Island Peak Essential info to know before you go HOW LONG n While the best plan is to explore the Khumbu over a four-week trip, the ascent of Island Peak can easily (and safely) be accomplished in a three-week itinerary. WHEN TO GO n There are two main climbing seasons in the Khumbu, and Island Peak can be climbed in both. These are in spring (Mar - May) and in autumn (Oct - Dec). WHERE TO STAY n During the trek you stay in tea lodges along the Everest trail, and these are plentiful and good fun. Chukkung village is the base for Island Peak ascents, while tents are used at Island Peak BC. WHO TO GO WITH n The author is running his next trip to Island Peak in April 2012 - for more information, visit his website at www.jcgexpeditions.co.uk, or email him at jon@jcgexpeditions.co.uk n World Expeditions offer a combined Island Peak and Mera Peak trek, with the next dates available in Mar 2012. More at: www.worldexpeditions.co.uk n Mountain Kingdoms are offering a combined Island Peak and Everest BC trek in Mar and Oct 2012. More at: www. mountainkingdoms.com n Jagged Globe are offering two treks in 2012 that include Island Peak their Everest Base Camp & Island Peak trek, with departures in Apr and Oct, and their Mera Peak & Island Peak trek with dates in Mar, Apr and Oct. For more info, go to www.jagged-globe.co.uk n 360 Expeditions are offering treks to Island Peak, and an extension to Everest Base Camp, in Nov 2012. For more info, go to: www.360-expeditions.com 4 6 5 ISLAND PEAK KITLIST Essential gear for climbing Isma Tsa FOR SUMMIT DAY 1 Helmet 2 Sunglasses (cat 4) 3 4-6 layers on top: thermals, fleece, down jacket, windproof shell 4 2-3 layers on the legs: thermals, trousers and windproofs 5 Double plastic boots 6 Crampons 7 Rope (for leader) 8 Harness 9 Jumars, figure of 8 and screwgate karabiners x 4 10 Gloves or mitts FOR TREK Tent (provided) 4-season sleeping bag (can be hired) Sleeping mat Island Peak flanked by it neighbours and surrounded by glaciers 26 TREK&MOUNTAIN TREK&MOUNTAIN 27