Bicycle Commute Guide 2009
About the Knoxville Regional Bicycle Program The Knoxville Regional Transportation Planning Organization (TPO) coordinates a comprehensive, multi-modal transportation planning process for the Knoxville urban area. Members include: Cities of Alcoa, Knoxville and Maryville, Town of Farragut, Lenoir City, Blount, Knox, Loudon, and Sevier Counties, Tennessee Department of Transportation, and East Tennessee Development District. As a component of the TPO, the Knoxville Regional Bicycle Program envisions a convenient, effi cient transportation system where people can bike safely to all destinations. Bicycling is a great way to get around town. It saves money, improves air quality and is good exercise. The purpose of the Bicycle Program is to integrate bicycling into the transportation system. The program works with all City and County departments within the TPO boundary to implement the Regional Bicycle Plan. Nationwide, communities are realizing they cannot build their way out of congestion. They must look to other solutions, such as transit, carpooling and bicycling. A healthy transportation system provides safe, convenient choices. Improving bicycling conditions provides alternatives for the increasing numbers of citizens who can t afford, don t want to or are physically unable to drive motor vehicles. Bicycling is the healthy transportation choice. Regular exercise helps prevent heart disease, osteoporosis, diabetes, colon cancer, depression and many more diseases. Obesity has increased at alarming rates, even in children. Bicycling to work, school or for errands is an easy way to make exercise a part of your daily life. For more information, please visit our web site at www.knoxtrans.org ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS This document was prepared in cooperation with the US Department of Transportation, the Federal Highway Administration, and the Tennessee Department of Transportation. Thanks to the City of Portland Offi ce of Transportation for sharing some graphics and inspiration.
Table of Contents BENEFITS OF BICYCLING... 1 GETTING STARTED... 2 How Far and How Long? Helmets Bike Fit Bike Type Bike Size Seat Types Adjusting Your Seat CLEARING YOUR BIKE FOR TAKEOFF... 4 Tire Pressure Tire Wear and Tear Wheels Brakes Quick Release Chain ACCESSORIZE YOUR BIKE... 7 Locks Lights Fenders Carrying Cargo Carrying Kids ACCESSORIZE YOURSELF... 9 Clothing Leg Bands Gloves Layering Rain Gear Shoes and Pedals ROAD RULES... 11 Signaling Turns Passing Biking Basics Where to Ride Sidewalks and Greenways Car Doors Getting the Green Equipment Requirements BICYCLING TECHNIQUE... 14 Braking Look Back Shift Gears Corners Hazards Blind Spot Left Turns GETTING AROUND... 16 Route Parking Locking More Theft Prevention Bikes and Transit Flats LIGHTEN UP... 20 THE TOP TEN EXCUSES... 21 COMMUNITY RESOURCES FOR BICYCLISTS... Inside Back Cover
Benefits of Bicycling SAVE MONEY. Did you know you work an entire day each week just to pay for your car? It costs between $7,000 and $9,500 a year to own, operate and maintain one motor vehicle. The AAA says that the 2007 costs of driving are more than 50 cents per mile. What if your family could get rid of one car by replacing some car trips with bike trips? Just think of what you could do with those thousands of extra dollars! IMPROVE HEALTH AND FITNESS. Always struggling to get to the gym? Commuting or running errands by bike is a great way to build regular exercise into your busy life. Bicycling is a moderate, low-impact exercise that can be continued throughout life. The Surgeon General suggests that significant health benefits can be gained by just 30 minutes of moderate physical activity 5 days a week. BENEFITS OF BICYCLING HELP YOUR COMMUNITY. You know about our region s air quality problems. You can help improve our air by biking instead of driving. More than 40% of car trips are less than 2 miles in length. These short trips are up to 3 times more polluting than long trips. They are also the perfect distance for biking! An average 4-mile bike commute keeps about 15 pounds of pollutants out of the air. 1
Getting Started HOW FAR & HOW LONG? Typically, 3 to 5 miles is an ideal distance for bike commuting, but some bicyclists go much farther. Riding 10 miles an hour won t break a major sweat (except in summer!) and you can cover 3 miles in less than 20 minutes. You may be able to average 12-15 miles an hour if conditions are right. HELMETS It s quite simple. Wear one. OK, so we ll expand a little on that. Wear one, and wear it correctly. Remember eyes, ears and mouth. Eyes: Your helmet should be level on your head, not tilted back. There should just be room for one or two fingers between your eyes and the helmet. Ears: The straps should form a V just beneath your ears. Mouth: The chin strap should be snug. You should be able to fit only one or two fingers between the strap and your chin, and when you open your mouth in a big yawn, you should feel the strap tighten. GETTING STARTED 2 Helmets come in a variety of types and most new ones are quite easy to adjust. When properly adjusted, the helmet should not come off your head when you lean forward, even before the strap is buckled.
BIKE FIT Making sure your bike fits you correctly can be crucial to the enjoyment of bicycling. Most bike shops will help you adjust your bike so it s set up for maximum comfort. Here are a few key considerations. GETTING STARTED BIKE TYPE It s not a one-type-fits-all world. Mountain bikes, hybrids and comfort bikes with upright handlebars and wider tires are well suited to shorter trips on city streets, while road bikes with drop handlebars and narrower tires may be a better choice for longer commutes. Then, of course, there are recumbent bikes, folding bikes, tandems, fixies Curious about the possibilities? Visit a local bike shop or two, they ll be glad to help you find the perfect bike for you. BIKE SIZE Most bike shops will help you figure out the best fitting bike for you. If your bike s frame is too tall, too short, or too long, it can be very hard to adjust the other components to make you comfortable. Here are some general guidelines: For On-Road Riding there should be about 1 to 2 inches between the top bar of the bike frame and your inseam. For Off-Road Riding there should be about 3 to 4 inches between the top bar of the bike frame and your inseam. SEAT TYPES A seat is a seat, right? Actually, there are a wide variety of seats for nearly every type of rider. Seats can be made for comfort or speed and come gender specific. Ask your local bike shop for help in selecting the best seat for your needs. ADJUSTING YOUR SEAT The key adjustments to a seat are: Fore/Aft: A general rule is 1¾ to 2½ inches from the nose of the seat to a vertical line through the bottom bracket. Angle: Start out level, and then find what is comfortable. Height: With your pedal at the bottom of the pedal stroke and your heel on the pedal, your leg should be completely straight (then your leg will be slightly bent when riding normally) 3
Clearing Your Bike For Takeoff A safe bike is essential: use this simple list to help ensure a safe and troublefree ride. If your bike doesn t pass one of the simple checks below, take it to a bike shop for further inspection and repair. TIRE PRESSURE Keeping tires correctly inflated helps avoid flats and makes your ride easier. The easiest way to check the pressure is using a pump with a gauge. If you look closely, the recommended tire pressure is listed on the side of your tire. If you don t have a gauge, pump up your tires so that it is difficult to push into the tire with your thumb. There are two kinds of tire valves (see illustration), and most tire pumps are adaptable to either one. Depress here to defl ate the tube Schrader Presta TIRE WEAR & TEAR It is common for tires to become worn after about 1,000 miles of riding. Tires can also get hard and brittle with age. Check the sides of your tires (the sidewalls) for significant cracks that may mean you need new tires. Frequent flat tires may mean the tread is thin, and the tire needs replacing. CLEARING YOUR BIKE FOR TAKEOFF DID YOU KNOW? Car tires have tread to avoid hydroplaning in wet conditions, but bicycle tires are thin enough that hydroplaning is not a problem. In fact, bicycle tires for road use have no need of any sort of tread features. Unfortunately, many people assume that a smooth tire will be slippery. But don t slick tires get slippery on wet roads, or metal features like utility covers & railroad tracks? The answer is, yes, they do; but so do tires with tread. All tires are slippery in these conditions. Tread features make no improvement in this. From www.sheldonbrown.com 4
WHEELS A wheel should not wobble when it rotates. A wobbly, untrue wheel can rub against the brake pads and cause your brakes to perform poorly. To check, turn your bike upside down and spin the wheels while looking closely at the brake pads. The gap between the rim and the brake pad should stay relatively constant. BRAKES When you squeeze your brake levers, there should be at least 1 inch between the lever and handlebar. If not, tighten the brake cable. Your brakes may have a cable adjusting barrel that allows you to do this easily. Also, keeping your wheel rims free of dirt and grease will improve brake performance considerably. Use an old rag to periodically wipe the grime off the rims, especially when you ve been riding during wet weather. Also, brake pads (the hard rubber pad that rubs the wheel rim when you brake) wear down, and eventually wear out. Many have a wear line showing you when they need replacement. Ask your local bike shop brake pad replacement is relatively inexpensive, and good brakes for your bike are essential. CLEARING YOUR BIKE FOR TAKEOFF QUICK RELEASE Many bikes have quick release levers on the wheels and seat. Make sure that the levers are solidly locked (snug and curved in towards the bike). Inspect the quick releases visually every time you ride. If you have questions about how to lock a quick release lever, stop by your friendly local bike shop. open closed 5
CHAIN Lean your bike against a wall or, better yet, have someone hold it for you. Crouch beside the bike and slowly rotate the pedals backward, checking to make sure the chain turns smoothly. Wipe the grit off your chain with a rag then sparingly apply a light oil to the chain and wipe off the excess with a rag. DO THE ABC QUICK CHECK CLEARING YOUR BIKE FOR TAKEOFF AIR: Is tire inflation OK? Ideal pressure is printed on your tire. BRAKES: Working well? Stopping you quickly? CHAIN & CRANKS: Pedaling smoothly? No squeaking? QUICK RELEASES: Closed and tight? CHECK: Anything loose or rattling on the bike? A quiet bike is a good bike! 6
Accessorize Your Bike You have your bike, and you re ready to go. Check out this overview of popular bike accessories before you head out the door; small investments can make a big difference in the comfort and convenience of your ride. ACCESSORIZE YOUR BIKE LOCKS One of the most basic pieces of gear for your bike is a good lock. There are a variety of different types of locks; your local bike shop will be glad to help you select one that meets your needs. LIGHTS Unless you only ride on the brightest and sunniest of days, you need to have lights. Flashing L.E.D. lights for both the front and rear of your bike are an inexpensive and invaluable piece of safety equipment. They re good to have on those gray days too! If you ride in an area where there s not much in the way of street lights, a solid beam front light that illuminates the road can be a good investment. See page 20 for more info on lights. FENDERS Even if you don t normally ride in the rain, you never know when it s going to start pouring before your commute home. Fenders make riding on wet streets a much better experience by keeping water and grit from being sprayed onto your legs and back. CARRYING CARGO You can haul a lot on a bike if you re properly equipped. Trying to carry a lot on a bike when you re not equipped is frustrating, not to mention dangerous. Ever seen someone riding with heavy plastic grocery bags dangling from the handlebars? Yikes! 7
HERE ARE SOME WAYS TO CARRY YOUR CARGO BASIC BACKPACK is very convenient for small loads but doesn t hold a lot and can make for a hot and awkward ride when loaded. MESSENGER BAG has a single strap that rests on your opposite shoulder; also does not hold a lot. RACK for the rear of your bike is extremely useful. You ll need one to be able to use panniers, buckets and some baskets. PANNIERS are bags that attach to a rear bike rack. These are usually waterproof, removable and allow you to carry more weight. BASKETS AND BUCKETS are generally a less expensive option for carrying more weight. Baskets can attach to the front or rear of your bike. Some are collapsible and others are easily removable to go in the store with you. Also, plastic bike buckets are inexpensive and functional. TRAILERS attach to the rear of your bike and are the best for carrying large loads, be it children, pets, groceries or whatever else you can think of. Hot tip: watch the classified ads for inexpensive used trailers. ACCESSORIZE YOUR BIKE CARRYING KIDS There are seats that can be mounted on a bike usually above the rear wheel to allow you to carry a child on your bike. The child is secured into the seat by safety straps. Keep in mind that because of its height, this type carrier alters your center of gravity while riding and increases the risk of losing balance. Most bike trailers are designed to carry kids, along with a shopping bag or two. Bike tag-alongs or trailabikes are designed for older children, and allow the child to pedal along with you. Remember that the law requires anyone under 16 to wear a bike helmet! For any of the devices for carrying children, check the manufacturer s specifications for how to safely use the product, as well as any age and/or weight limitations. 8
Accessorize Yourself CLOTHING Your clothing should be comfortable and not get caught in your bike. For short commutes, regular clothing can be just fine. Just be sure to strap your right pant cuff to keep it from getting caught by the chain (or get a chain guard for your bike). For longer commutes, many prefer to wear cycling clothing, such as jerseys and cycling shorts. Experiment with what works for you, and invest in a few quality pieces. The right clothing can provide you with added visibility during dark or low light conditions. You can buy clothing with reflective panels and/or piping or add reflective tape to existing items. NOTE: reflective clothing is not a substitute for bicycle lighting equipment. ACCESSORIZE YOURSELF LEG BANDS Leg bands are a cheap and easy way to keep your pant leg free of chain grease. GLOVES Wearing gloves serves two purposes: they can protect your hands from the elements and can prevent aches and pains in your hands and wrists. Use fullfingered in cooler weather and half-fingered in warmer weather. LAYERING Layering can be the key to staying comfortable when riding in the wet and/or cold. Multiple layers can be a low-cost alternative to performance clothing. In addition, a layer can easily be added or removed to improve comfort on the fly. Try a base layer that breathes, another layer that provides warmth, and an outer layer that keeps out the wind and rain. RAIN GEAR Water-resistant and waterproof clothing specific to cycling can make yearround riding a breeze. A good rain jacket with a longer flap in the back is a good start. You can also buy rain pants, waterproof gloves, helmet 9
covers and shoe covers. Another option is a rain cape, which is open on the bottom to allow air flow, so you don t get overheated. (Fenders are a must with this option!) SHOES & PEDALS Generally, any shoe will do. Choose something casual and comfortable with a good traction sole. Toe clips (cages are attached to the pedals that your foot slips into) can be added for better pedaling efficiency. A more technical alternative is a pair of clipless pedals that require cleated shoes. SOME INEXPENSIVE WET WEATHER TIPS When parking outside in wet weather, carry a plastic bag to put over your seat. You can also use plastic bags to keep your feet dry all you need to attach them is rubber bands! ROAD RULES Keep a pair of socks and shoes at your workplace, so even if your feet do get wet during the ride they ll soon be warm and dry. 10
Road Rules Knowing your responsibilities and rights as a cyclist is important to staying safe and feeling confident on your bike. In general, the same traffic rules and regulations for motor vehicle drivers apply to bicyclists. Read on for a brief summary of the most important laws and traffic considerations that pertain to bicyclists. See the Resources section at the back of this booklet on where to find more detailed information on bike safety and the law. ROAD RULES SIGNALING TURNS Hand signals indicating a turn are required of cyclists for at least 100 feet before a turn or stop except when both hands are necessary to control or operate the bicycle. When approaching a turn you ll often need both hands for braking and your own general safety. However, if you have an available hand then communicating your intentions with others drivers, pedestrians and other bicyclists by using signals is a great way to foster harmony on the road. PASSING Passing is generally done on the left, just as if you were in a motor vehicle. Passing on the right is only allowed if there is room for two lines of moving vehicles. We recommend NOT passing on the right, though it is tempting. Motorists can turn suddenly in front of you or pull out in front of you because they just see a line of stopped cars, not you. BIKING BASICS Ride with traffic, in a predictable manner Obey traffic controls (stop signs, signals, etc) Maintain control of your bicycle Be visible and aware 11
WHERE TO RIDE If you re riding a bicycle on a road at less than the normal speed of traffic, you re required to ride as close as practicable to the curb or edge of roadway except when: overtaking or passing another bicycle or vehicle, preparing to execute a left turn, avoiding hazardous conditions, or the lane is not wide enough to safely share with another vehicle. In all of the above cases, a bicyclist may need to take the lane to avoid being squeezed up against the curb or parked cars by passing motor vehicle traffic. Maintain a straight a line of travel, and avoid weaving in and out of the parking lane. This helps make you more predictable to other road users. Also, bicyclists can ride side-by-side as long as they don t impede the normal movement of traffic. RIDE IN A STRAIGHT LINE NO DON T WEAVE IN AND OUT SIDEWALKS & GREENWAYS Bicyclists must yield to all pedestrians on sidewalks and in marked or unmarked crosswalks. Give a warning (use a bell or your voice) before overtaking pedestrians from behind. The greenways are very popular and some can be crowded with all types of users. It s your responsibility to yield to pedestrians, so slow down a bit and enjoy the scenery! ROAD RULES 12 CAR DOORS It is illegal for a motorist to open a car door if it interferes with the movement of traffic or leave a door open for a period of time longer than is necessary to load or unload passengers. When riding next to parked cars, particularly in heavily used parking areas, be alert to car doors opening suddenly in front of you. Scan ahead to see if driver or passengers are in the car on the street side. Give yourself a buffer by riding a little farther away from the door zone.
GETTING THE GREEN Some traffic signals are triggered by electrically charged wires buried in the pavement. When a vehicle stops over the wires, the metal disrupts the current, which sends a signal to the traffic signal control box. While a car is easily detected by the sensors, and a pedestrian can push a button to get the walk sign, a bicycle with relatively little metal must be in the right spot to be detected. You can recognize these sensors by looking for narrow cut lines in the pavement, usually in a rectangle shape. You should be able to activate the signal by positioning your bike on the pavement cut. If there are three parallel cuts in one lane, you should position your bike in the center of the lane, over the center pavement cut. Also keep in mind that some traffic signals have very long cycle lengths and it may take a while to get served on a side street. Cycle lengths may be as long as one hundred and twenty seconds, and although two minutes may not sound like a long time, it may seem like an eternity when waiting for a green. If you find a signal that is not working for bikes, please call 215-3815 or e-mail kelley.segars@knoxtrans.org. ROAD RULES EQUIPMENT REQUIREMENTS Helmets are mandatory for everyone under the age of 16 years (but since you still have a head after you turn 16, we think you should keep wearing a helmet too). Required lighting equipment for use after dark includes: 1) a white light visible from at least 500 feet and 2) a red rear reflector visible from 50 to 300 feet (but we recommend a red rear light as well). Bikes must be equipped with a brake that is strong enough to skid on dry, level, clean pavement. 13
Bicycling Technique There are lots of riding techniques and insider tips that most people learn bit by bit. We ll save you some time and trouble. Don t be shy about finding a vacant parking lot or playground and practice your moves. BRAKING Get to know your brakes. Rear brakes (usually the right hand lever) are very different from front brakes. The front brake has more stopping power than the rear, but also requires more skill to avoid stopping too abruptly. Spend some time in a vacant parking lot getting the feel. For emergency braking (1) shift your weight toward the rear of the saddle and get your torso as low as possible while (2) applying even pressure to both brakes. Practice this too! LOOK BACK Cyclists need to check traffic behind them when changing lanes or merging, just as drivers do when using a rear-view mirror. Practice the shoulder check in a vacant parking lot until you can do it without swerving. If your neck doesn t like turning that far to look over your shoulder, try pivoting at the waist and hips a bit as well the knee on the side you re turning to can point out a bit. Also, mirrors (either the helmet mount or handlebar mount variety) can be helpful, though they re not a complete substitute for shoulder checking. BICYCLING TECHNIQUE SHIFT GEARS Use your gears to keep how fast you turn the pedals ( cadence ) fairly constant and easy. Downshift to an easier gear when coming to a stop so that when you start up again you ll be in an appropriate gear. For going up hills, shift to an easier gear before the pedaling becomes too difficult. A cadence of about 60 to 80 pedal revolutions per minute is a good target for most cyclists. CORNERS Slow down before you turn. Applying the brakes during a turn can cause you to skid. For more stability while turning keep the inside pedal up. 14
HAZARDS Railroad tracks, wet leaves, metal utility covers, thermoplastic road markings and gravel are just a few things that can pose problems for cyclists. When riding over any of these surfaces, especially when wet, avoid braking and turning. For any rough surface, shift some of the weight off of your seat and onto your hands (handlebars) and feet (pedals). Cross tracks at as close to a right angle as possible. Tracks are slippery, especially when wet, so don t alter your course or speed as you cross. If you can t get a good crossing angle, or if the surface looks too rough, it s OK to walk your bike across. Don t ride through puddles because you don t know what s at the bottom! It could be a pothole that would cause you to crash. Remember that your brakes don t work as well when they are wet, so slow down when it s raining or the streets are still wet. BICYCLING TECHNIQUE BLIND SPOT When overtaking a slower motorist while in a bike lane or shoulder, use extreme caution make sure you stay out of the driver s blind spot especially at locations where a driver could turn right across your path, like intersections and driveways. Stay a little bit ahead of the vehicle, so the driver can see you in front of them, or Stay far enough back so that if the vehicle suddenly turns right or stops you ll be able to stop your bike safely. LEFT TURNS Merging across traffic on a busy street to make a left turn can be a very difficult maneuver even for an experienced cyclist. Here s how you can make that turn without the stress: 1. Ride through intersection on right 2. Stop and turn your bike; and 3. Proceed with caution 15
Getting Around ROUTE By choosing good routes for your bike trips you can make your rides safer and more pleasant. The route you normally drive may not be the best route by bike. When planning your route, locate your starting point and your destination on the Knoxville Bicycle Map and determine the best bike routes that connect the two. There may be several options so choose the best route for you. You may want to test it out first on a day when you re not in a hurry to be at school, work or other appointment at a certain time. You can try it on a Sunday morning, but be aware that traffic patterns will be quite different at rush hour! If you re still unsure of a route, contact the Bike Mentor Program at 215-3815 or kelley.segars@knoxtrans.org to ask for route suggestions. PARKING If your business doesn t already have a bike rack, there are a few options. Talk to your supervisor about finding a convenient indoor storage spot (could be under some stairs or in your office). You can also tell them about the Bike Parking Program that offers bike racks at just 20% of the actual cost! For more info, call 215-3815 or email kelley.segars@knoxtrans.org. LOCKING At a minimum you should put your lock through your frame and the front wheel. This is especially important if you have a quick release wheel, since if you only lock the wheel, the rest of your bicycle can be detached and carried away. Options for locking the frame and both wheels include: 1) removing the front wheel so it can be locked with the rest of the bike and 2) using two locks. GETTING AROUND 16 LOCK-UP TIP: Locking both the frame and the front wheel makes breaking your U-lock tougher for thieves, and it helps keep your bike from falling over if it s bumped.
MORE THEFT PREVENTION First, remove items from your bike that can be quickly and easily stolen. These include quick release seats, bags and lights. Next, make sure that you have taken as much slack out of your lock as possible to prevent your bike from tipping and to discourage thieves from prying. Also, some people find that making their bike less attractive is an effective theft deterrent. This can involve riding an older bike or using paint and stickers to make a newer bike appear older. GETTING AROUND BIKES AND TRANSIT All KAT buses have bike racks on the front. Each rack holds two bicycles. It s easy to load your bike: 1. Signal to the driver that you are about to load your bike on the rack. 2. Grab the bar on the front of the bike rack and pull down to unfold it. 3. Lift the bike onto the rack, fitting the tires where indicated with marks for front wheels. Use the inside slot (closest to the bus) first. 4. Pull the support arm out and up over the front tire to secure the bike. You can also use your bike lock to secure the bike to the rack. 17
FLATS The most common mechanical problem that bicyclists experience is a flat tire. It s actually surprisingly easy, if a bit grimy, to fix a flat tire. Once you ve learned how you ll want to impress all your friends with your newfound skill. Three things you can do if you get a flat along the way: 1) Call a friend for a lift, 2) Put your bike on the bus, 3) Fix it yes, you can! HOW TO FIX A FLAT 1. STOP RIDING. Even if there s still some air in the tire, stop riding your bike, otherwise you ll damage the wheel rims. If there s any air left in the tube, release it by pressing on the valve. 2. REMOVE THE WHEEL. It s easier to take the wheel off if you turn your bike upside down first. Release your brakes (squeeze the brakes together, and then unhook the brake cable from the brake pad). Take the wheel off. If your wheel isn t quick release, then remove the nuts with a wrench. 3. REMOVE THE TIRE. Use a tire lever to move the lip of the tire over the rim, on one side of the wheel. Once you ve done the whole side, you can pull the tire and tube together off the rim. 4. REMOVE THE TUBE. Before removing the tube, mark on the tire where the valve was positioned. That way when you find the leak in the tube, you can check the corresponding place in the tire to see if the culprit is still in the tire. 5. PATCH OR REPLACE. You can either replace the whole tube or patch it. Both tubes and patch kits are cheap at your local bike shop. If you go with patches, get the regular kind (black dot with a red border), not the glueless patches, since glueless patches often don t stick well. A properly-applied regular patch will last forever. GETTING AROUND 18 IF PATCHING...(IF REPLACING TUBE, proceed to Step 4) 1. FIND THE LEAK. Pump the tube up and locate the leak. Draw a circle and an X on the tube to mark the hole. Prep the tube for patching. Release all the air again. Use the sandpaper or metal file that came with the patch kit to scrape the hole area really well. This will allow the glue to bond better. 2. APPLY THE GLUE. In a well-ventilated area, apply the glue to the leak area, to an area slightly larger than the patch. Wait for the glue to dry before applying the patch. This may seem counter-intuitive, but you won t get a good bond if you put the patch on wet. Try not to breathe the glue vapors; it s not good for you. 3. APPLY THE PATCH. Don t remove the clear plastic on the patch yet. Apply the patch to the tube, and mash down really hard. You may prefer to stand on it. Apply pressure for at least 60 seconds. THEN remove the clear plastic.
4. FIND THE CAUSE OF THE FLAT. If whatever caused your flat is still in your tire, you ll get another flat right away. 5. DID THE TIRE FAIL? (i.e., Is there a big hole on the tire where part of it flaked off?) If so, you ll need to replace your tire. In an emergency you can place a boot between the tube and the tire, using a dollar bill, cut pieces of an old tube, or a special boot patch that you can buy at a bike shop. 6. IF THE TIRE DIDN T FAIL, FIND THE PUNCTURE. Match the location of the leak in the tube with its sister location on the tire. If you don t find it, run your finger slowly through the inside of the tire feeling for a tiny bit of glass or wire. If you don t find anything, check the wheel itself for sharp spots or rust. 7. REINSTALL THE TUBE. Put a little air in the tube, just enough to give it a little form, and put it into the tire. 8. REINSTALL THE TIRE. Stick the valve through the valve hole. With your fingers, work the lip of the tire into the wheel rim, on only one side. You may need to use a tire lever for the last bit. Once you ve done one side completely, do the other side. Be careful not to pinch the tube between the tire and the rim, especially when you re using the lever. If it s too hard to get the tire on the rim, try releasing more air. 9. PUT THE WHEEL BACK ON YOUR BIKE. If your wheel uses nuts, then alternate between each side a few times as you tighten don t tighten one side completely before starting the other. If you have quick release, make sure you put it on tight enough. It s tight enough when the quick release lever offers some resistance and leaves a mark on your hand. After you put the wheel on, tug on it pretty hard to double-check that it s not loose. Also make sure it s on straight if it s rubbing on the brakes when it spins, it ll be a lot harder to pedal. 10. INFLATE AND RELEASE. Pump up the tire, and then let most of the air out again. This will help work out any kinks where the tube might have been pinched. (A pinched tube will pop as soon as you air it up all the way and sit down on the bike.) There s some debate over whether this really helps, but it certainly can t hurt. 11. REINFLATE THE TIRE. Inflate the tire until it s very firm. You should be able to just barely make a small dent in the tire by pressing on it with your thumb while your fingers hold the wheel under it. 12. PUT THE VALVE CAP BACK ON. This will help keep the air in if the valve has a slow leak. 13. RECONNECT THE BRAKE CABLE. Don t forget this part! GETTING AROUND From http://bicycleuniverse.info/eqp/fi xfl at.html 19
Lighten Up! Only 3% of bike rides are at night, but over 50% of bicyclists killed get hit while riding at night. Many of those crashes are due to the bicyclist not having lights. For most night riding, you ll probably be around street lights, so your bike lights are for you to be seen, not to help you see. It s also important to wear bright/reflective clothing since your upper body is at eye level. HEADLIGHT Get the most powerful one you can afford. A handlebar mounted light makes you visible to others, and shows where you re going. If you are riding where there aren t street lights, you ll need a strong beam. Lights with rechargeable battery packs are great, as are hub generated lighting systems. REAR REFLECTORS Bigger is better. Get one at least 3 inches wide, and make sure it s pointed straight back, not up or down. Reflectors only work if they re clean, so make sure to wipe yours off occasionally. REAR LIGHT A red light is a great supplement to the required rear reflector. Many bicyclists use flashing red lights. REFLECTIVE TAPE Use on your bike frame, helmet, backpack, etc. Use white or yellow in front and red in back. REFLECTIVE SAFETY VEST OR JACKET Good for bicycling in dark clothes or if your rear light goes out. LIGHTEN UP 20
The Top 10 Excuses 10. I NEED MY CAR FOR WORK. Many errands can be handled equally well if not better by bike. Your company might benefit from a more environmentally friendly image if you conducted your business by bike. Is there is a company car you can use for those work trips? Or see if you can limit your out-of-office trips to certain days, and bike to work on the other days. 9. BICYCLING WOULD TAKE TOO LONG. You d be surprised! For two years in a row, bicyclists have won the Pedal vs. Metal Race by completing three errands in less time than the motorists. Because of traffic in urban areas, bicycling generally takes the same time, or less, than driving for trips of 3 to 5 miles. But even if your commute is longer, 30 extra minutes of sleep won t be as invigorating as an early morning ride. You ll arrive at work alert and ready to go! Plus, you ll save the time you usually spend at the gym (and the trip to and from!). THE TOP 10 EXCUSES 8. I M OUT OF SHAPE. If you leave yourself plenty of time and go at an easy pace, you ll find bicycling no more difficult than walking. As you ride more, you ll ease your way into better shape. If you have health problems, consult your physician for suggestions on getting started. 7. I CAN T AFFORD A FANCY BIKE. You don t need a special bike. Most bikes can work fine for commuting. Talk to your local bike shop about adapting your bike to make it more comfortable as a commuting bike. 6. I HAVE TO DRESS NICE FOR WORK. Some bike commuters simply ride in their work clothes, while others ride in casual or cycling clothes and change at the office. You can carry your change of clothes with you, or drive one day a week and bring your clothes for the rest of the week with you. 21
5. THERE S NO SECURE PLACE FOR MY BIKE. There s probably a storage room or closet where you could stash your bike. Or you can convince your employer to buy a bike rack through the Bike Parking Program (it only costs them 20% of the actual cost!). Or simply find an immovable object and lock your bike to it. 4. I CAN T SHOWER AT WORK. Depending on the weather and the length of your commute, you may not need a shower if you ride at a leisurely pace. If you do, try using a washcloth and having a quick sink shower in the washroom. Or look for a health club close by. 3. IT S RAINY AND/OR COLD. Start as a fair weather bike commuter. If you only ride when the forecast is favorable, you ll still make a significant difference. The more you bike, the more you ll look forward to that part of your day and you may find yourself wanting to bike every day. With the right clothing and gear, biking in the rain and the cold is not as bad as you think. 2. I D HAVE TO RIDE IN THE DARK. Wear light colored, reflective clothing and use a good lighting system. There are a variety of bike lights to help you see and be seen. THE TOP 10 EXCUSES 1. IT S NOT SAFE TO RIDE IN TRAFFIC. The fear of riding in traffic is often much greater than the actual danger. Minimize risk by riding properly and following the rules of the road. Scan ahead for potential hazards and be aware of your environment. Always wear a helmet. You can also take our Street Skills for Bicyclists class to learn techniques for riding in traffic and avoiding crashes. 22
Community Resources for Bicyclists BIKE PARKING Bike Lockers KAT Park and Ride lots http://www.knoxtrans.org/plans/bikeprog/kat_lock.htm Market Square Parking Garage http://www.knoxtrans.org/plans/bikeprog/ms_lock.htm Bike Parking Program http://www.knoxtrans.org/plans/bikeparking/index.htm or call 215-3815 STREET SKILLS FOR BICYCLISTS CLASSES Call 215-3815 or check http://www.knoxtrans.org/plans/bikeprog/classes. htm for next scheduled class. MAPS Knoxville-Knox County Bicycle Map Available at http://www.knoxtrans.org/plans/bikeprog/resource.htm#maps or your local bike shop Center City Bike Routes http://www.knoxtrans.org/plans/bikeprog/resource.htm#routes UPCOMING EVENTS http://www.knoxtrans.org/plans/bikeprog/events.htm BICYCLE TRAFFIC LAWS Tennessee Traffic Laws Relating to Bicycles: A Handbook for Motorists and Bicyclists http://www.knoxtrans.org/plans/bikeprog/resource.htm#handbook STREET MAINTENANCE To report potholes and road problems, call: City of Knoxville = 311 Knox County = 215-5800 Farragut = 966-7057 Oak Ridge = 425-1875 Blount County = 982-4652 Maryville = 981-3302 Alcoa = 981-4146 For more on-the-road numbers to call for assistance: http://www.knoxtrans.org/plans/bikeprog/otr_help.pdf TO RECEIVE NOTICES ABOUT UPCOMING BIKE EVENTS e-mail kelley.segars@knoxtrans.org or call 215-3815
KNOXVILLE REGIONAL TPO TRANSPORTATION P L A N N I N G ORGANIZATION Knoxville Regional TRANSPORTATION PLANNING ORGANIZATION Suite 403, City County Building 400 Main Street Knoxville, Tennessee 37902 (865) 215-2500 www.knoxtrans.org