CUGRI University Centre for the Prediction and Prevention of Major Hazards University of Salerno and Federico II University of Naples

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1. Hydraulic Research Wallingford, UK. 2. EMES, Rome, Italy. 3. Dept. Civil Environmental Engineering, University of Catania, and CUGRI, Italy. efoti@dica.unict.it 4. Dept. Civil Engineering, University of Salerno and CUGRI, Italy. epc@unisa.it CUGRI University Centre for the Prediction and Prevention of Major Hazards University of Salerno and Federico II University of Naples

VIRGIL seated between Clio Melpomene (Bardo Museum, Tunis)

statio male fida carinis (An unsafe harbour to ships, Aeneides Book II)

statio male fida carinis What is unsafe? According to PIANC: comfort Hs >0.15 m 5 days/year safety Hs = 0.30 m Return time 5 years limit Hs = 0.50 m Return timee 5 years

Riposto Marina outer basin Instrument layout ADV Wavemeter av. depth 8.80 Acoustic surface height range meter 0 100 m

Doppler Bottom Wavemeter SONTEC TRITON-ADV av. depth 8.80 - sampling interval 30 Y N X

Quay-side installation Acoustic range finder

W ave Tp W ave Hs FileName: RIP02002.tri 16 1 2 12 8 4 0 21:00:00 28/08/2008 09:30:00 29/08/2008 22:00:00 29/08/2008 10:30:00 30/08/2008 23:00:00 30/08/2008 11:30:00 31/08/2008 00:00:00 01/09/2008 12:30:00 01/09/2008 01:00:00 02/09/2008 60 FileName: RIP02002.tri 20 5.0 4.5 4.0 80 3.5 3.0 40 21:00:00 28/08/2008 09:30:00 29/08/2008 22:00:00 29/08/2008 10:30:00 30/08/2008 23:00:00 30/08/2008 11:30:00 31/08/2008 00:00:00 01/09/2008 12:30:00 01/09/2008 01:00:00 02/09/2008 60 0 2.0

Sig Amp (counts) /s) 0 W ave Hs Wave Hs FileName: RIP02002.tri 16 12 8 4 0 21:00:00 28/08/2008 09:30:00 29/08/2008 22:00:00 29/08/2008 10:30:00 30/08/2008 23:00:00 30/08/2008 11:30:00 31/08/2008 00:00:00 01/09/2008 12:30:00 01/09/2008 01:00:00 02/09/2008 160 FileName: RIP02002.tri 120 12 80 10 8 6 40 4 2 0 0 2.0 1.6 08:00:00 30/08/2008 10:30:00 30/08/2008 13:00:00 30/08/2008 Sampling: 30 15:30:00 30/08/2008 18:00:00 30/08/2008 20:30:00 30/08/2008 23:00:00 30/08/2008

Std Error (cm/s) Velocity (cm/s) Std Error (cm/s) Sig Amp (counts) Depth (m) Sig Amp (counts) Wave Tp Wave Hs Wave Hs Wave Tp RIP02004 Hs 16 12 8 4 1.2 Particolare 20/09/08 time 12:30 0 RIP02004 Tp 130 120 110 100 130 90 120 FileName: RIP02004.tri FileName: RIP02004.tri 8.92 05:00:00 8 7 6 5 4 3 15 10 5 0 05:00:00 07:30:00 07:30:00 16:00:00 21/09/2008 10:00:00 10:00:00 18:00:00 23/09/2008 1.2 Variazioni delle pressioni per il particolare 1.1 12:30:00 12:30:00 20:00:00 25/09/2008 15:00:00 17:30:00 15:00:00 17:30:00 22:00:00 00:00:00 02:00:00 27/09/2008 30/09/2008 02/10/2008 20:00:00 25 20 15 10 20:00:00 04:00:00 04/10/2008 5 0 80 110 4 8.88 1003 90 2 80 4 1 8.84 8.80 4 3 0 2 05:00:00 0 2 07:30:00 10:00:00 12:30:00 15:00:00 17:30:00 20:00:00-2 Beam1/X/E Beam2/Y/N Beam3/Z/Up 1-4 0-6 05:00:00 Variazioni delle velocità per il particolare 1.1 07:30:00 10:00:00 12:30:00 15:00:00 17:30:00 20:00:00 200 400 600 800 1000 Wave Series Sample Number Beam1/X/E Beam2/Y/N Beam3/Z/Up Beam1/X/E Beam2/Y/N Beam3/Z/Up

9,00E-02 8,00E-02 7,00E-02 6,00E-02 PRESSURE WATER HEIGHT ETA 5,00E-02 4,00E-02 3,00E-02 2,00E-02 1,00E-02 0,00E+00 0 0,05 0,1 0,15 0,2 0,25 0,3-1,00E-02 A harobour basin is a filter Spectrum is very peaked (Around 12 seconds)

eta560 0,03 0,025 0,02 0,015 Serie1 0,01 0,005 0 0 0,05 0,1 0,15 0,2 0,25 0,3 frequenza And sometimes two peak frequencies (around 12 and 8 seconds)

Offshore Wave data: Italy has ( had) a very efficient national wave measuring network RON And one of the buoys is very conveniently located (off Catania) BUT it has NOT been working the last few years

Weather/wave models publicly available in the area include : ECMWF Mediterranean Model (WAM) (6 Hours Analyses,forecast not easily available) NETTUNO, WAM implemented by Cavaleri (ISMAR-CNR) and the Italian Air Force Meteorological Centre (CNMCA) (6 Hour Analyses + 1 hr forecasts) The latter is based on a (roughly) 4.5 km WAM grid driven by COSMO-ME local area weather model BUT: -It does not - as yet - include any satellite wave data assimilation -Its archive is very short (2-3 years)

Significant wave height [ m ] 01 00:00 02 00:00 03 00:00 ECMWF Mediterranean Model (of course) includes Satellite altimeter data assimilation 04 00:00 05 00:00 06 00:00 07 00:00 08 00:00 09 00:00 10 00:00 11 00:00 12 00:00 13 00:00 14 00:00 15 00:00 16 00:00 17 00:00 18 00:00 19 00:00 20 00:00 21 00:00 22 00:00 23 00:00 24 00:00 25 00:00 26 00:00 27 00:00 28 00:00 29 00:00 30 00:00 31 00:00 ECMWF Significant wave height (grid point 127) Lat 37.5, Lon 15.5 7 6 5 December 2008 4 3 Envisat Pass 543 Lat. 37.51, Lon. 15.33 2 1 0 Envisat Pass 616 Lat. 37.52, Lon. 15.86 Time [ dd hh:mm ]

01 00:00 02 00:00 03 00:00 04 00:00 05 00:00 06 00:00 07 00:00 08 00:00 09 00:00 10 00:00 11 00:00 12 00:00 13 00:00 14 00:00 15 00:00 16 00:00 17 00:00 18 00:00 19 00:00 20 00:00 21 00:00 22 00:00 23 00:00 24 00:00 25 00:00 26 00:00 27 00:00 28 00:00 29 00:00 30 00:00 31 00:00 Significant wave height [ m ] 7 ECMWF Significant wave height (grid point 127) Lat 37.5, Lon 15.5 6 5 4 Envisat Pass 616 Lat. 37.52, Lon. 15.85 January 2009 3 2 Envisat Pass 543 Lat. 37.51, Lon. 15.33 1 0 Time [ dd hh:mm ]

W ave Hs Significant wave height [ m ] 01 00:00 02 00:00 03 00:00 04 00:00 05 00:00 06 00:00 07 00:00 08 00:00 09 00:00 10 00:00 11 00:00 12 00:00 Very different time sampling 13 00:00 14 00:00 15 00:00 16 00:00 17 00:00 18 00:00 19 00:00 20 00:00 21 00:00 22 00:00 23 00:00 24 00:00 25 00:00 26 00:00 27 00:00 28 00:00 29 00:00 30 00:00 31 00:00 7 ECMWF Significant wave height (grid point 127) Lat 37.5, Lon 15.5 6 5 4 Envisat Pass 616 Lat. 37.52, Lon. 15.85 January 2009 3 2 Envisat Pass 543 Lat. 37.51, Lon. 15.33 1 0 Time [ dd hh:mm ] FileName: RIP11001.tri 50 45 40 35 30 25 07:30:00 08:00:00 08:30:00 09:00:00 09:30:00 10:00:00 10:30:00 11:00:00 11:30:00 12:00:00 12:30:00 13:00:00 13:30:00 13/01/2009 13/01/2009 13/01/2009 13/01/2009 13/01/2009 13/01/2009 13/01/2009 13/01/2009 13/01/2009 13/01/2009 13/01/2009 13/01/2009 13/01/2009

A Modelling waves Mild Slope Equations PHAROS (by DELTARES/Delft WL) B C C1 I M Coefficienti di riflessione nei settori A costa 20 % D E G B mantellata 35% C1 porto_a1 60 % C porto 100% F D porto_a2 100% E porto_b1 60% F porto_b2 50% N H G molo 70% H mantellata_2 35% I spiaggia 10% L L uscita 0% M ingresso

Modelling waves ( Mild Slope Equations ) The influence of wave period N MONOCHROME! H = 1 m; T = 13 ; D = 90 da N

Modelling waves with Mild Slope Equations The influence of wave period MONOCHROMATIC wave! N H = 1 m; T = 11 ; D = 90 da N

Modelling waves with Mild Slope Equations The influence of wave direction N MONOCHROME! H = 1 m; T = 11 ; D = 120 da N

Crid= Hin/Hoffshore Within the Target Area Modelling waves with Mild Slope Equations Target area The influence of wave period MONOCHROME wave! N H = 1 m; T = 5 ; D = 120 da N

Modelling waves with Mild Slope Equations Target area The influence of wave period N H = 1 m; T = 7 ; D = 120 da N

Modelling waves with Mild Slope Equations Target area The influence of wave period N H = 1 m; T = 11 ; D = 120 da N

Modelling waves with Mild Slope Equations Target area The influence of wave period N H = 1 m; T = 13 ; D = 120 da N

Modelling waves with Mild Slope Equations Target area The influence of wave direction Hot Spots!! N H = 1 m; T = 13 ; D = 90 da N

0,12 Crid= Hin/Hoffshore At the TRITON-ADV 0,10 0,08 0,06 0,04 0,02 0,00 70 90 110 130 150 170 190 Direction (from)

Crid= Hin/Hoffshore At the TRITON-ADV 0,12 Crid 0,10 0,08 0,06 Serie1 0,04 0,02 0,00 7,00 7,50 8,00 8,50 9,00 9,50 10,00 10,50 11,00 Tav

04/12/2008 Nettuno (37.5;15.5) 04/12/2008 Triton Time Hs Dir Tav Time Hs Dir T Red.Coeff. 0.00 2.7689+-7 8.56 0.00 0.192 9.6 0.070 6.00 3.1598+-6 10.21 6.00 0.258 10.5 0.082 12.00 2.91 117 9.63 12.00 0.31 10.8 0.107 12/12/2008 Nettuno (37.5;15.5) 12/12/2008 Triton Time Hs Dir Tav Time Hs Dir T Red.Coeff. 0.00 4.38 151.7 8.78 0.00 0.235 10.5 0.054 6.00 3.48 133 9 6.00 0.245 11.5 0.070 12.00 2.45 175.8 7.09 12.00 0.238 12.3 0.097 17/12/2008 Nettuno (37.5;15.5) 17/12/2008 Triton Time Hs Dir Tav Time Hs Dir T Red.Coeff. 0.00 2.04 104.2 8.7 0.00 0.183 9.2 0.090 6.00 2.2 105.4 8.92 6.00 0.243 9.2 0.110 12.00 2.08 105.84 8.97 12.00 0.196 10 0.09

Measured/vs Model 0,16 Crid= Hin/Hoffshore Within the Target Area 0,14 0,12 0,10 0,08 0,06 Crid-Tr Crid-SM Crid-Min 0,04 0,02 0,00 30 50 70 90 110 130 150 170

Hin = Average OR Max Sub-area? Which sub area? Crid= Hin/Hoffshore Will Integrated Spectrum Analysis make things better (i.e. more uniform field)? N H = 1 m; T = 11 ; D = 120 da N

SO.. While none of the single steps of the monitoring programme is entirely new in itself, the integration of different methods and technologies, over different time and space scales provides essential information. When offshore measured data are lacking, a careful integration of in situ data and up-to-date weather and wave simulation can provide a satisfactory evaluation of harbour confort and safety as long as the target area is well defined AND Yes, even a properly designed marina could be unsafe according to modern standards AND Should the regulations be more specific?(open to discussion)

THANK YOU A shipping company from Syllectum, Tunisia (Ostia, Rome Harbour, II Century AD) Acknowledgements Italian Air Force Meteorological Centre (CNMCA) provided important data; Lt. Colonel Torrisi s precious help and advice was particularly appreciated. Two private companies: "Mediterraneo Scarl" and "Walcom Italy provided a useful occasion to improve the understanding of marina harbour wave agitation problems.

N Per tutti casi esaminati: H = 1 m D = 60 da N