beaufort Selfsteering Systems OWNER S MANUAL ORION ASMER 18 rue de la Scierie F - 17 000 La Rochelle Phone: +33(0)5 46 45 22 20 http://www.asmer.fr e-mail: contact@asmer.fr
TABLE OF CONTENTS 1. SPECIFICATIONS... 3 1.1. LIST OF SUPPLIED MATERIALS... 3 1.2. SPECIFIC ITEMS AVAILABLE ON OPTION... 3 1.3. WORKING PRINCIPLES... 3 2. INSTALLATION ON YOUR BOAT... 5 2.1. SELECTING THE POSITION... 5 2.2. MOUNTING THE WINDVANE... 6 2.3. LINE CIRCUITS... 6 2.4. LINES FOR ORIENTATION OF THE AIRVANE... 8 3. USING YOUR WINDVANE... 9 3.1. INSTALLING THE SERVO-BLADE... 9 3.2. INSTALLING THE AIRVANE... 9 3.3. BASIC ADJUSTMENTS... 10 3.4. SAILING... 12 3.5. UNDER POWER... 12 4. FUNCTIONING WITH AN ELECTRIC AUTOPILOT... 13 5. MAINTENANCE OF YOUR WINDVANE... 14 6. TROUBLE- SHOOTING... 15 7. ADJUSTMENT AND DISASSEMBLY... 17 7.1. CHECKING THE GENERAL ASSEMBLY... 17 7.2. ADJUSTING OF ALIGNMENT OF AIRVANE RELATIVE TO THE SERVO-BLADE... 17 7.3. INSTALLATION OF THE AIRVANE ORIENTATION LINE... 17 8. WARRANTY... 18 9. APPENDICES... 19 10. DRAWINGS AND PARTS LIST.....20 ASMER +33 (0)5 46 45 22 20 / contact@asmer.fr 2
1. SPECIFICATIONS 1.1. List of supplied materials Your windvane is delivered complete, ready to be mounted on your boat. All what remains for you to do, is to plan and install the system of lines which link the windvane to the tiller or the wheel adapter. The different elements are as follows: The frame with its elements The stainless-steel servo-pendulum The light air windvane (polycarbonat) The windvane out of plywood The reinforcement struts Bolts, nuts and washers for the mounting onto the boat 12 meter pre-stretched rope (dynema) Pulley and bungee-cord for the vane orientation Owner s Manual (in English, French or German) 1.2. Specific items available on option Pulleys for the tiller/wheel-line Wheel drum for wheel steering Eye plates for attaching the lines to the tiller Foldable ladder to be mounted on the frame of the wind vane Clam cleats Chain and plate 1.3. Working principles The principles that we have used to design the beaufort wind vane are the following: An air vane on an inclined axis which detects changes in the apparent wind direction. A submerged servo-pendulum which works on the main rudder, either via the tiller, or the wheel. Transmission between the air vane and the servo-blade, by means of a pushrod in the shape of a Z : a simple and sturdy solution which increases the sensibility and reduces weight and inertia. Transmission from the servo-pendulum to the main rudder by means of lines. Minimal friction, inertia and play for the whole system. Marine grade stainless steel and black Delrin (POM) which resist in high aggressive environments. 1.3.1 Upper part The upper part is composed of a very light vane, counter-balanced by a weight. Both elements are mounted on the orientation ring. The vane is articulated around a slightly inclined axis (approximately 20 ). This arrangement resulted from trials undertaken by Marcel Gianoli for Pen-Duick II and the Atlantic race in 1964. The vane base can be rotated around the vertical axis to align the vane into the apparent wind. ASMER +33 (0)5 46 45 22 20 / contact@asmer.fr 3
For a specific direction of the boat, in relation to the apparent wind, the vane is in its vertical position (neutral position). The instant the apparent wind changes its direction, the apparent wind tilts the vane to one side or the other and this creates a signal. Vanes that rotate around a slightly inclined axis develop a much stronger signal on the servo-pendulum than vertical / traditional vanes (Hassler gear). This system is therefore more sensitive and effective than a traditional vertical vane. The vane has to be in a position such that it receives undisturbed apparent wind. Barbecues, outboard engines and so on, should not deflect the apparent wind. The mounting frame also protects the mechanical elements (pushrod, blade ). 1.3.2 Lower part The servo-pendulum is another result of the trans-atlantic race of 1964, but this is the idea of Blondie Hasler. It has a hydrodynamic profile and it sits vertically in the water. The signal from the vane rotates the pendulum around its vertical axis. This slight rotation in conjunction with the speed of the boat results in a rotation around its horizontal axis. Therefore we have a high amplification of the vane signal (mathematically and mechanically speaking, this is a knot with two degrees of freedom - rotation around two perpendicular axes). The movements of the vane are transmitted to the vertical axis of the pendulum by means of a Z (very clean, simple and ingenious transmission). This system gives us an inclination or oscillation or deflection proportional to the change of the apparent wind. Additionally, the angle of deflection decreases the further the servo-pendulum swings out and approaches its position imposed / required by the vane. Hence we have a very efficient jaw damping of the system. The control of the servo-pendulum requires only a small force from the vane because of the compensation of the pendulum (approximately 20 ). As soon as the servo-pendulum makes a rotation around its vertical axis, and thanks to the speed of the boat, the water pushes the pendulum around its horizontal axis. This horizontal movement pulls on the main rudder by means of the lines. It is the speed of the boat and the flow of the water which generates the force to move the main rudder. 1.3.3 Friction, inertia and play For the system to work efficiently, it is necessary to minimize friction, inertia and play. To achieve these demands, we use sleeve bearings made out of Acetal for the few rotating parts, which reduce frictions enormously. The whole system is made out of stainless steel and precisely assembled to minimize play in the whole system and there we have a very nice self-steering gear. Please Note: the transmission system of the lines should be installed with the same criteria and attention. ASMER +33 (0)5 46 45 22 20 / contact@asmer.fr 4
2. INSTALLATION ON YOUR BOAT 2.1. Selecting the position The positioning of the wind vane should respect several criteria : The horizontal axis of rotation of the servo-blade must be parallel to the longitudinal axis of the yacht. If you want to off-center the vane gear to one side of the fixing, tubes must be longer (or shimmed) so that the pendulum axis remains parallel to the center line of the boat. Height above the waterline. Clearance necessary for the servo-pendulum and the vane, so they can move in all directions without being disturbed. 2.1.1 Horizontal axis of the servo-blade The horizontal axis of rotation of the servo-blade (ref. 3208) must be parallel to the longitudinal axis of the boat. The axis may be slightly off-centered without decreasing the performance of the vane gear. Do not exaggerate, in my opinion, 200 mm off-centre should not be exceeded. 2.1.2 Height above waterline The vane gear must be positioned in such a way that the upper part of the servo-pendulum stays out of the water by about 100 to 150 mm (about 4 to 6 inches). When the boat is sailing, it creates a front and rear wave and therefore the water rises in the back and the pendulum will be completely covered. This explains the positioning out of the water. On some boats, the water rises a lot, but this does not have any influence on the functioning of the self-steering gear. 2.1.3 Clearance necessary for the servo-pendulum and the vane It is necessary to have a clearance of about 90 cm (about 3 ft) all around the head for the light vane to move freely. Additionally, the apparent wind reaching the vane should not be disturbed or deflected. If there are any obstructions on the push pit (barbecue, outboard engine,etc.), move them to another position so that the apparent wind reaches the vane undeflected. In the case of a ketch or a yawl: The problem arises when the mizzen boom extends over the wind vane. We can reduce the height of the vane and provide you with a larger one, under the condition that the boom is high enough. If the mizzen is too low, you need to tilt the vane by hand, veer or jibe, and then let the vane go and readjust the setting. ASMER +33 (0)5 46 45 22 20 / contact@asmer.fr 5
2.2. Mounting of the self-steering gear It is essential to have sturdy mounting points as the forces developed may be high. It may be necessary to install backing plates, plywood or large shims, or even both. 2.3. Line circuits Because of the variety among sailboats, it is not possible to supply an exhaustive description of all circuits possible. Therefore, only a general description can be made, and each individual installation will have to be adapted to the boat. If you are uncertain about the best circuit for your yacht, please don t hesitate to contact us. We advise you to have as direct a circuit as possible, to avoid unnecessary friction and play. Please note: on a boat with tiller steering, the lines have to be crossed. 2.3.1 Steering lines The supplied steering lines have a diameter of 5 mm. The lines are pre-stretched and have a low stretch coefficient. However, modern materials with a smaller diameter may have the necessary strength but they do have disadvantages in comfort. It is in your own interest to have steering lines longer than necessary. This will allow you to change the friction points on the lines which will increase their life-span. Please mark each line close to their attachment points on the tiller (with a felt pen or thread), in order to easily relocate the neutral position of the servo-pendulum. 2.3.2 Determination of the attachment point of the lines on the tiller The position of the attachment point of the lines varies from one boat to another. The distance between the rudder shaft and the attachment point is usually between 50 and 80 cm. (1,5 to 2 times the distance between attachment point on the servo-pendulum and its rotational axis, on the ORION its 48 cm, about 19 inches). Allow a smaller distance if your boat requires more tiller movement in order to stay on course. Experiment with simple knots before drilling holes in the tiller to attach clam cleats or a chain plate. In most cases, one attachment position is sufficient, no matter what wind strength and boat speed you encounter. Generally, it is better to have the attachment further away, rather than too close to the rudder. It is relatively easy to reduce the oscillations and limit the movement of the vane by varying the ratio. 2.3.3 Attachment of the lines on a tiller Here are some different ways of attaching: Ring batten and clam cleats: Fixing a ring batten on each side of the tiller will lead the lines towards the clam cleats. The ring batten permits you to have various attachment points. This is a very simple solution. ASMER +33 (0)5 46 45 22 20 / contact@asmer.fr 6
Rail and clam cleats This is a variant of the preceding system: the ring is fixed on the rail, and can therefore be moved forwards and backwards. The clam cleats are fixed close to the grip of the tiller. Chain: This is also a good solution. It is easy to adjust the correction angle of the tiller if necessary and quickly reset after shifting or jibing. 2.3.4 Attaching of the lines on a steering wheel For boats with wheel steering, the steering lines will be fixed to the wheel drum. The connection between the steering wheel and the self-steering gear can be easily and quickly engaged and disengaged by a rod in a quarter of a turn. The drum is fixed to the steering wheel with plastic spacers (acetal) and stainless bolts. The rod should be pointing at 10 11 o clock. Begin by fixing the lines at the wheel drum. Make a simple knot around the cross bar in the groove of the wheel drum with the middle of the center steering line. Turn both ends of the lines at least 1 ½ to 2 times around the wheel drum. The line circuit is split into three sections: the port line, the starboard line (the two lines that cross the cockpit), and the center line around the wheel drum. Then the port line and the starboard line should be attached to the servo-pendulum. Please note: The starboard line has to be hooked up to the central part (wheel drum) at the end which turns the wheel drum clockwise. The port line turns the wheel drum counter clockwise. 2.3.5 Pulleys for the steering lines Our pulleys and sheaves have a diameter of 44 mm. Sheaves with roller- or needle-bearings have less friction when new, but are less reliable if not carefully maintained. The one end of the line will be guided through the frame and attached to the pendulum. The other end will be attached to the tiller. Between these two extremities you have to install a certain number of blocks, pulleys or sheaves, according to the configuration of your boat. The first sheaves are those integrated in the frame. The last sheaves are the ones that lead the lines to the tiller. These sheaves will be fixed on each side of the cockpit in such a way that when the lines come out of the last eye, the blocks are positioned slightly rearwards of an imaginary perpendicular line. All the blocks should be solidly fixed to firm supports as each one will have to support the power generated by the servo-pendulum. All the sheaves should be perfectly aligned to guide the lines. The slightest chafing will result in excessive wear and premature rupture of the lines. To limit the pivoting on pulleys, it is just better to use fixed sheaves. In this case you must pay particular attention to the alignment and the orientation of each block. We can supply these blocks on request. Once you have determined the position of the blocks/sheaves, I do advise you to test this system once (move the servo-pendulum by hand and look at the blocks and sheaves) before you fix them definitively. ASMER +33 (0)5 46 45 22 20 / contact@asmer.fr 7
2.4. Lines for the orientation of the vane The self-steering gear beaufort is supplied with a line with which you can turn the vane into the wind. The bungee prevents the vane from turning by itself. It is important that there is always tension on this line while sailing. When you are in harbour, you may release the tension of the bungee by taking the line out of its groove, and therefore increase its lifespan. Should you wish to be able to change the orientation of the vane from another point on the boat the spray hood for example it may be necessary to move the block and its bungee and perhaps install intermediate blocks or sheaves. ASMER +33 (0)5 46 45 22 20 / contact@asmer.fr 8
3. USING YOUR WIND VANE For your first outing, try to choose a day with 10 to 20 knots of wind. Too much wind, or not enough, makes it more difficult to observe the functioning of the wind vane. Start using the wind vane on a close reach and observe how the gear functions. Then bear away and see how the gear works on other wind directions. Follow the instructions below and you will rapidly confirm the rudder to your wind vane. However, you will need some more time to find the exact adjustments for your boat, to get the most out of your new companion. Then when you sail with your wind vane, you will have all the time necessary to devote to your favorite pastimes (cooking, reading, taking a nap there is always something to do on a boat ). But never forget, that as good as your new helmsman the vane gear beaufort is, it can t keep watch, nor does it detect obstacles in the way, nor variations of the wind strength or its direction. Increase your vigilance and remain a careful sailor. 3.1. Installing the servo-blade Connect the servo-blade to the axe of the servo-pendulum by pushing the pin 3225 in. Release the blade and let the assembly drop into the water, the coupling yoke 3222 will lock itself to the axe. * The safety line is attached above the rudder blade and below the bolt. The other end is attached to the frame or to the boat. The release line is used for disengaging the servo blade from its axis and is fixed to the main tube of the frame, besides the sticker. On the lower end of the servo-blade, there is a shackle with a third line. This line is used to pull the blade out of the water. You may make a double-eight knot at the corresponding position to keep the blade in the air. This knot is then guided through one eyebolt 3102 and hooked to the bolt of the counterweight. The remaining end of the line can now be tied to the frame 3209. The line remains in the water when the blade is in the water and the self-steering gear is working. 3.2. Installing the vane The wind vane pivots around the quasi horizontal axis. The rear of the wind vane is indicated by the tell tale the front side with the beaufort sticker.towards the counterweight. Fasten the vane onto the base by means of the two eyebolts (3102) between the metal plates, so that the vane stays upright (sticker and counterweight into the wind). The stainless wire of the small safety line on the vane is then put through the eyebolt. Whatever your heading is, the front side of the vane and the counterweight point into the apparent wind. ASMER +33 (0)5 46 45 22 20 / contact@asmer.fr 9
3.3. Basic adjustments This is a list of the operations to be carried out before entrusting the helm to the wind vane: Balance the boat under sail, i.e. trim the sails so that minimal rudder angle is needed to hold the course. We strongly recommend using tell tales to trim your sails. Install the vane. Lower the servo-blade into the water (for this, you must put your bow into the wind). Turn the vane into the apparent wind. Block the steering lines to the tiller or engage the wheel adapter (pay attention to your rudder angle). Keep an eye on the course. If necessary, turn the knurled nut of the vane to adjust. You can adjust the counter-weight, but don t forget to tighten the bolt. 3.3.1 Balancing of the boat In order for the wind-vane to function properly, the boat must be well trimmed. The better the balance of the boat under sail, the less work is required from the vane gear (leading to a more regular course and less wear and load on the vane gear). Please note: When you are not steering yourself, you may not notice right away if the wind increases. If you don t adjust the sails to the wind, the vane gear has to work excessively. See in the annex for the use of telltales to trim sails. 3.3.2 Choose the right vane When the wind is light, use the light air vane (polycarbonat). In general, change to the other vane (plywood) when and as soon as you reef your sails (this may be different from boat to boat, just try). 3.3.3 Using the servo blade It is best to put the servo-blade into the water before the boat picks up speed. Indeed, the boat speed might make it difficult for the blade to engage with the axis. (If this happens, put the bow into the wind in order to slow down, and the coupling yoke will engage more easily. Then, go back to your initial course again). To take the servo-blade out of the water, disengage it, and fix it in a raised position as described before. For all manoeuvres under sail with the self-steering gear beaufort, remember that the servoblade generates huge forces. ASMER +33 (0)5 46 45 22 20 / contact@asmer.fr 10
3.3.4 Setting the vane With the boat on course, orientate the vane so that its leading edge is into the apparent wind. It should stay there vertical, or slightly oscillate. While setting the vane, stay out of the wind and beside the vane to ensure that you do not deflect the apparent wind. The bungee cord has the purpose of limiting, and only limiting, the oscillation of the vane. 3.3.5 Attaching the lines With the vane vertical, the servo-pendulum and the blade will also be vertical. If the boat needs a little rudder angle to keep course, maintain this angle. Now you need to hook up the steering lines to the tiller. (Use the marks on the lines: see 2.3.1). Ensure that there is no slack in the lines. For the vane gear to function well, there shouldn t be any play. However the lines shouldn t be too tight, as this will increase premature wear of the lines. Correct and well-tensioned lines permit fast action of the self steering gear. With wheel steering, all you need to do is to quarter turn the locking pin of the drum to engage the gear. 3.3.6 Keep an eye on the course As soon as the boat is sailing under vane gear, keep an eye on the course for some time. If the corrections are always made on the same side, this is usually due to bad sail trim. Trim the sails so that the corrections are almost equally on both sides. Nevertheless, it is a fact, that a sailing boat has the tendency to go into the wind and therefore the vane gear will work more on one side than on the other. 3.3.7 Using the knurled adjustment nut of the vane The vane gear is delivered with a pre-set ratio of about 2:1 between the vane and the servopendulum. This ratio is reached when the adjustment screw juts out about 30mm (1 ¼ inch) from the nut. The knurled nut allows us to modify the ratio between the vane and the servo-pendulum. By turning the adjustment nut counter-clockwise, the deflection or the swing of the servo-blade will get bigger (ratio 1:1). By turning the adjustment nut clockwise, the ratio between the vane and the servo-pendulum will increase (3:1) and therefore the deflection/swing of the blade will decrease. This possibility allows you to adapt the self-steering gear to the needs of your boat (long keel or short keel) as well as to the different weather conditions. Experience has shown that once you have found your setting, you barely modify it. ASMER +33 (0)5 46 45 22 20 / contact@asmer.fr 11
3.3.8 The counterweight The counterweight may be moved upwards to decrease the inertia and increase the sensitivity. With the bungee cord you may limit the oscillation. This possibility exists, but should rarely be used. 3.4. Sailing 3.4.1 Changing heading To change the heading, turn the base of the vane into its desired direction, without unlocking/touching the tiller. The boat will now go onto its new course. Trim the sails again and then readapt the tiller angle. 3.4.2 Avoiding an obstacle Avoiding an obstacle can also be done under wind steering. Nevertheless, it is safer to disengage the vane gear, circumnavigate the obstacle, and then re-engage the gear. 3.4.3 Tacking or jibing Even though the wind steering gear is not intended for tacking or jibing, it can be done. The following instructions are given under the assumption that your boat is responsive to the helm, and that it remains sufficiently stable whilst jibing. Tacking : Don't touch neither helm, nor lines. Turn the vane base to the opposite side (new setting). If necessary, tilt or push over the vane by hand. The bow will then go through the wind. Trim and fine tune the sails and reset the vane gear (tiller angle). Jibing: Position the vane in line with the longitudinal axis of the boat, with the wind directly astern. Jibe the fore- and main sails. Attention: Watch the boom! Now trim the sails and readjust the vane gear. 3.5. Under motor power If you travel under motor power, even so there is wind, you can still use the wind vane. All you need to do is align the vane into the apparent wind. If there is no wind at all, the speed of the boat under power creates its own apparent wind. In this case, you can t use your vane gear at all. Attention: The propeller of the engine may create turbulences in the flow of the water, which may cause vibrations on the servo-pendulum. Vibrations are the beginning of the end of mechanic and need to be avoided under all circumstances. If there are vibrations, we advise against the use of the vane gear as an amplifier for small tiller pilots. Hook up the tiller pilot directly to the tiller. ASMER +33 (0)5 46 45 22 20 / contact@asmer.fr 12
4. FUNCTIONING WITH AN ELECTRIC AUTOPILOT If there is not enough apparent wind and you can t use the vane gear due to lack of wind, it is possible to connect an electric autopilot. Hereby, you replace the signal created by the vane by the electric signal from the pilot. The electric pilot requires only a little power and therefore has very low consumption. The necessary force to keep course will be created by the servo-pendulum. The smallest tiller pilot will do the job, which also results in very low consumption. If you are under sail, there are no specific problems. However, if you sail and use the motor in addition, it is possible that the servo-pendulum will be in the stream of turbulence from the propeller. In the case that the servo-pendulum vibrates, you may off-centre the servo-pendulum to avoid this. The fact that the blade is slightly inclined doesn t matter but, it must be out of the turbulence. If the vibration persists you must take the blade out of the water. ASMER +33 (0)5 46 45 22 20 / contact@asmer.fr 13
5. MAINTENANCE OF YOUR WINDVANE The vane gear is made out of stainless steel (316) and polyacetal (POM), so they require minimal maintenance. After use, it is a good idea to rinse it off with fresh water in order to eliminate all the salt deposits on the moving parts. It also makes sense to grease the moving parts with good oil or water resistant grease. In port or anchoring, remove the vane and raise the servo-pendulum. For longer stops, it is best to remove the servo-pendulum as a precaution against theft or accidents. ASMER +33 (0)5 46 45 22 20 / contact@asmer.fr 14
6. TROUBLE- SHOOTING PROBLEMS CAUSES SOLUTIONS The boat always deviates in the There is too much sail, and/or it is Reef or correct sail trim. same direction / the vane gear can t keep course badly trimmed. Bad adjustment between vane and servo pendulum Check adjustment (see 7-2-2) Functioning is not symmetrical on both sides. Impossible to maintain course of the boat Boat tends to go into the wind One of the lines is too loose or torn Check and correct Too much friction in one of the steering line circuits. Bad adjustment between vane and servo-pendulum Servo-blade disengaged Servo-blade damaged or unbalanced Lines inverted Check all possible points of friction, proper alignement of blocks and their proper functioning Check adjustment (see 7-2-2) Re-engage the servo-blade Change the servo-blade If you are unable to change or repair the servo-blade, it is sometimes possible to modify the balance by taping something onto one or other. Change, but note that for a tiller, the lines must be crossed. Vane operating in disturbed airflow Remove the cause of the disturbance Vane broken Replace or repair Vane reversed Change the orientation of the vane by 180 (see 2-2) Orientation line is out of its groove Check that the sheaves are correctly aligned with the drum. (If necessary twist the sheet metal with a pair of pliers) Push rod misaligned Check adjustment (see 7-2-2) Boat speed too low / not enough wind When running, boat speed may be high, and apparent wind too low Adjustment nut and/or badly set counterweight Line attachment points on the tiller badly positioned Sails sheeted in too much You have reached the limits of the vane gear This can happen with very fast boats. Reduce speed if you want to continue using the vane gear. Re-align Change them Check your sail trim. ASMER +33 (0)5 46 45 22 20 / contact@asmer.fr 15
PROBLEMS CAUSES SOLUTIONS Too much sail or badly trimmed Reef and/or trim sails sails The course zigzags/ the boat is brought back to the correct course too slowly Too much tiller movement Change the position of the lines on the tiller (move the point of pull forward on the tiller) Stabilise the vane by means of 40- cm telltales Correct the adjustment Counterweight or adjustment of badly adjusted nut Steering lines too loose Tighten the lines Too much friction in the vane gear Check all possible areas of friction, or in the steering system of the correct orientation of sheaves and boat their proper functioning Check friction in the rudder (state of the bearings...) In light wind, vane too small Use the light wind vane With the wind from behind, the Adjust the counterweight vane is affected by the rolling of Release the tension in the lines the boat slightly Change the course to 160 instead of 180 Boat speed too low / not enough You have reached the limits of the wind vane gear Vane is too heavy If you have replaced the original vane, it may well be that the new one is too heavy. You can, therefore, try to balance it by adding weight to the counterweight. Lack of sensitivity Adjustment nut and/or Check adjustment counterweight poorly adjusted Vane unbalanced Repair Stiff point in the transmission Find and repair Hard on the wind, no wind in the Course and vane gear too close to Bear away genoa the wind The boat reacts to the wrong side Steering lines not crossed (tiller) Modify the setting The vane gear doesn t work as well Adjustment nut is misaligned as before Check that clips 3108 aren t broken or lost. Replace or put a small cord in the groove. If the adjustment nut turns too easily, put a bit of Teflon tape on the thread. ASMER +33 (0)5 46 45 22 20 / contact@asmer.fr 16
7. ADJUSTMENT AND DISASSEMBLY Your vane gear has been assembled and adjusted correctly before shipping and requires no further intervention. Should you need to disassemble it, this is not difficult, as it was already designed and optimized for this. Simply ensure, when re-assembling, that the parts are properly aligned, and friction is minimized. (Think of greasing / oiling from time to time). The only part which requires slight adjustment for the vane gear to work properly is transmission plate 3213: position it in such a way that rod 3211 turns spindle 3221 easily and equally in both directions. Adjustments are as follows: 7.1. Checking the general assembly Tilt the air vane to change the angle of the servo-blade. Pivot the servo-blade on its horizontal axis as the water would do. (The direction depends on the side towards which the air vane is canted). Progressively as you pivot the servo-blade, its angle of incidence should decrease. 7.2. Adjusting air vane alignment relative to the servo-blade Alignment of the air vane relative to the servo-blade is carried out by adjusting the length of rod 3127/3113. Place the adjustment wheel (3107) of the air vane in the middle position. Commence initial adjustment with the boat stationary (static adjustment). Keep both the air vane and the servo-blade vertical, adjust the length of the rod so that the blade has no angle of incidence. Final adjustment is made by motoring in zero wind on a flat sea (hydrodynamic adjustment). Keep the air vane vertical. Motor at medium speed, then adjust the rod length so that the servo-blade is vertical in the water. Lock the rod by means of the locking-nut. 7.3. Installation of the air vane orientation line Place the orientation line in position. If the line has a tendency to slide into the groove without moving the disk, first check that the disk rotates freely, and then check the tension of the bungee (see 5-4). If the tension is good but the friction is too low you can apply polyurethane mastic (e.g. Sikaflex) to the groove. ASMER +33 (0)5 46 45 22 20 / contact@asmer.fr 17
8. WARRANTY Your wind vane is under warranty for two years from the date of delivery. The warranty covers parts and labour, but excludes shipping and packing. Any part evidencing a manufacturer s defect will be exchanged under the warranty. Accidental damage is not covered. The warranty is valid only if the installation has been carried out according with these specifications. Therefore, should you claim under the warranty, you will have to furnish photographs of your installation, together with your claim. The attachment points, the positioning of the wind vane, and the line circuit, are to be clearly shown. (Photo taken ¾ from the stern.) ASMER +33 (0)5 46 45 22 20 / contact@asmer.fr 18
9. APPENDICES THE USE OF TELLTALES FOR SAIL TRIM The use of telltales allows you to visualize the wind-flow over the sails. This is important in order to obtain proper sail trim, and thus make the task of the wind vane easier. Remember, it is preferable for the wind vane to correct the course as little as possible. How to install telltales: Assuming that you do not have telltales, you can make your own ones using a piece of wool, a magnetic tape from a sound cassette or strip of spinnaker material. Glue the telltales with a self-adhesive sail patch or other strong adhesive. Where to position the telltales: Position them on each side of the sail, those on starboard 5cm above those on port, so that you will be able to see them both clearly. Attach the telltales 25cm behind the luff, and on the leech. Check that they will not be affected by a seam and they are not behind a sail hank. Using the telltales for sailing: Good sail trim is attained when the telltales on both sides of the sail are horizontal. When the sail is not sheeted in enough, the windward telltales will droop downward. When the sails are sheeted in too tightly, the leeward telltales will undulate, indicating that the airflow is detached. ASMER +33 (0)5 46 45 22 20 / contact@asmer.fr 19
LIST OF PARTS COMPOSING THE beaufort SELFSTEERING SYSTEMS UPPER PART OF THE beaufort: Drawing made in Sept. 2011 ASMER +33 (0)5 46 45 22 20 / contact@asmer.fr 20
Rep Name Material Quantity 3101a standard air vane Marine plywood 1 3101b Light air vane Polycarbonate 1 3102 machine bolt stainless 316 2 3103 air vane support stainless 316 1 3105 machine bolt M8x10 stainless 316 2 3108 circlip stainless 316 1 3109 adjusting knob with thread and mechanic stainless 316 1 3114 bushings for air vane axle acetal 2 3115 air vane rear axle stainless 316 1 3116 air vane support bracket stainless 316 1 3117 Machine bolt M5x40 stainless 316 4 3118 airvane orientation acetal 2 3119 Machine bolt M10x20 stainless 316 2 3120 plate for air vane orientation stainless 316 1 3124 Machine bolt stainless 316 1 3125 air vane front axle stainless 316 1 3126 counterweight stainless 316 1 3128 Sheaves and bushings acetal/stainless 316 2 ASMER +33 (0)5 46 45 22 20 / contact@asmer.fr 21
LOWER PART OF THE beaufort ORION: Drawing made in Sept. 2011 ASMER +33 (0)5 46 45 22 20 / contact@asmer.fr 22
Rep Name Material Quantity 3201 plate stainless 316 4 3202 sheave with spacer acetal/stainless 316 6 3203 spacer stainless 316 2 3204 left sheave bracket stainless 316 2 3205 right sheave bracket stainless 316 2 3206 machine bolt M8x10 stainless 316 2 3207 sheave acetal 2 3208 axles stainless 316 2 3209 main frame stainless 316 1 3210 pin stainless 316 1 3211 transmission (elephant) stainless 316 1 3213 transmission base (elephant) stainless 316 1 3216 servo shaft bushings (upper and lower) acetal 2 3218 servo shaft mounting stainless 316 1 3221 servo shaft stainless 316 1 3222 locking shoe stainless 316 1 3223 pin stainless 316 1 3224 metal bracket stainless 316 1 3225 pin stainless 316 1 3226-100 connecting tube (eather) stainless 316 3226-150 connecting tube (eather) stainless 316 3226-200 connecting tube (eather) stainless 316 1 3226-250 connecting tube (eather) stainless 316 3226-300 connecting tube (eather) stainless 316 3226-350 connecting tube (eather) stainless 316 3226-400 connecting tube (eather) stainless 316 3228 Servo-blade Epoxy foam/stainless316 1 ASMER +33 (0)5 46 45 22 20 / contact@asmer.fr 23