SLOPING OFF Alf Alderson hits the slopes above Bonneval-sur-Arc and discovers a winter world that seems to have been by-passed by the 21st century 64 WINTER 2016 ONBOARD
SKI A LA MODE OAKLEY Flight Deck XM in matt black Make your mark when you hit the slopes of Bonneval in style with this season s best ski gear SWEET PROTECTION Trooper Helmet NORTHFACE Jeppeson jacket www.thenorthface.com ARVA Pro W Transceiver 400 POINT 65 Boblbee GTO 25l www.packs.point65.com DYNASTAR Cham High Mountain 500 ONBOARD WINTER 2016 67
BONNEVAL Eventually we have to take a break from all this fun and refuel at the low key, friendly Restaurant Criou; the staff could be as diffident as they want since it s the only restaurant on the mountain, but there s an amiable atmosphere here as everyone from adrenaline fuelled freeriders to family groups gather in the warm spring sunshine. Despite being one of the most snow-sure ski resorts in the French Alps, Bonneval is as low key as you can get As I sit and sip my Coke that feeling of having drifted back in time returns; not only is the village of Bonneval a reminder of the past, but skiing here has the homegrown feel that has been lost, or never even existed, at many big, modern ski resorts. So as a skier you may think that you d stand out a tad in this traditional alpine setting. Not a bit of it. Bonneval has somehow managed to get the perfect balance of being a village that relies on skiing for much of its winter income but hasn t sold out to it. And whilst the skiing infrastructure is all human scale and basic, the resort s slow old chairlifts carry you up into a mountainscape that is far from human scale and, for that matter, far from basic. Spectacular would be more the word of choice. The vast bulk of 3638 metre Mont Albaron towers above the ski slopes, blue glaciers glinting on its steeper flanks, whilst its snowfields display the dark tracks of ski tourers heading for Italy, on the mountain s far side. Veronique breaks my reverie by pointing out In January we enjoy fresh tracks all over the mountain for days after a big snowstorm; it s very quiet then, not many skiers visit in the depths of winter. To me and Hugh this seems like the perfect package; visit in midwinter after a major dump and stay in a traditional auberge in the village whilst skiing fresh powder every day without the crowds and without the hype. For now, however, we re heading back to the 3000 chair to rip up more of that spring powder before word gets out and everyone joins us. But of course, they won t, because the ski season is now winding down, so effectively we have the slopes to ourselves for the rest of the day. And from what Veronique says, that s pretty much the case every day. Perfect This side of the massif faces north, and the 3000 chairlift will allow you to access it; I m riding it with my mate Hugh and locals Veronique Boniface and Christian Batailli, and as you might expect given the lift s name it deposits us at the resort s high point of 3000 metres, where the snow conditions are consistently excellent. Bonneval has only a modest 25 km of groomed pistes, hence the resort s increasing popularity as a freeride destination, and we follow Christian and Veronique on a long and airy traverse across wide snowfields to a huge, cold, shadowy snowbowl directly beneath Mont lbaron s north face, where we find shin deep powder and enough untracked lined to keep us coming back time and time again. Bearing in mind that this is a day after the Easter weekend break this is quite remarkable. After all, had we been skiing in nearby Val d Isere every slope would be scarred with the tracks of countless skiers; here in Bonneval, after one of the busiest weekends of the ski season, we can still lay down our own lines on run after run. BONNEVAL-SUR-ARC ESSENTIALS GETTING THERE The nearest airport is Chambery, which is just under two hour s drive from Bonneval-sur-Arc. It s also possible to take a train to Modane then a one hour bus transfer to Bonneval. Maximum height 3000m Resort height 1800m Max vert. 1200m Ski area 25km pistes Beginner 40% Intermediate 50% Expert 10% Plus extensive freeride and ski touring terrain For more details visit www.bonneval.haute-maurienne-vanoise.com 66 WINTER 2016 ONBOARD
Visit Bonneval-sur-Arc in midsummer and it s a hive of activity. Cars, and more especially motorbikes and cyclists pass by this lovely alpine village on their way up or down the famous Col d Iseran, at 2764 metres the highest paved road in the Alps. The col sits up in the sky above Bonneval and gives access to Val d Isere, the village s near neighbour (at least as far as the crow flies, although only in summer, from late September to June it s invariably covered in snow, often to a depth of several metres, and the two settlements are then cut off from each other. Life in Val goes on regardless. Indeed, in winter it s even busier than in summer, but if you visit Bonneval-sur-Arc in winter you really do feel that you ve reached the end of the road as you drive into the village, which technically you have, of course. You ll probably also feel like you ve stepped back in time. For despite being one of the most snow-sure ski resorts in the French Alps, Bonneval is as low key as you can get. The village sits at an altitude of 1800 metres in the Vanoise National Park and is a member of the group Les Plus Beaux Villages de France which aims to preserve traditional architectural styles and cultural traditions. Any building work has to remain true to the alpine vernacular style, telephone cables and street lighting is routed underground and shops and other businesses are not permitted to use large, garish signage. The squat, stone tiled houses and Baroque style chapels have survived largely due to the village s high, remote location when German forces razed many of the region s lower level, more accessible towns and villages on their retreat towards the end of World War II, Bonneval was left untouched. Whilst tourism remains important to the local economy year round, traditional transhumance agriculture and craft work are also still important. Produce such as Bonneval blue cheese, Savoie tomme and cured ham or the work of local wood carvers is still very much a part of the local artisanal economy. ONBOARD WINTER 2016 65
Visit Bonneval-sur-Arc in midsummer and it s a hive of activity. Cars, and more especially motorbikes and cyclists pass by this lovely alpine village on their way up or down the famous Col d Iseran, at 2764 metres the highest paved road in the Alps. The col sits up in the sky above Bonneval and gives access to Val d Isere, the village s near neighbour (at least as far as the crow flies, although only in summer, from late September to June it s invariably covered in snow, often to a depth of several metres, and the two settlements are then cut off from each other. Life in Val goes on regardless. Indeed, in winter it s even busier than in summer, but if you visit Bonneval-sur-Arc in winter you really do feel that you ve reached the end of the road as you drive into the village, which technically you have, of course. You ll probably also feel like you ve stepped back in time. For despite being one of the most snow-sure ski resorts in the French Alps, Bonneval is as low key as you can get. The village sits at an altitude of 1800 metres in the Vanoise National Park and is a member of the group Les Plus Beaux Villages de France which aims to preserve traditional architectural styles and cultural traditions. Any building work has to remain true to the alpine vernacular style, telephone cables and street lighting is routed underground and shops and other businesses are not permitted to use large, garish signage. The squat, stone tiled houses and Baroque style chapels have survived largely due to the village s high, remote location when German forces razed many of the region s lower level, more accessible towns and villages on their retreat towards the end of World War II, Bonneval was left untouched. Whilst tourism remains important to the local economy year round, traditional transhumance agriculture and craft work are also still important. Produce such as Bonneval blue cheese, Savoie tomme and cured ham or the work of local wood carvers is still very much a part of the local artisanal economy. ONBOARD WINTER 2016 65
BONNEVAL Eventually we have to take a break from all this fun and refuel at the low key, friendly Restaurant Criou; the staff could be as diffident as they want since it s the only restaurant on the mountain, but there s an amiable atmosphere here as everyone from adrenaline fuelled freeriders to family groups gather in the warm spring sunshine. Despite being one of the most snow-sure ski resorts in the French Alps, Bonneval is as low key as you can get As I sit and sip my Coke that feeling of having drifted back in time returns; not only is the village of Bonneval a reminder of the past, but skiing here has the homegrown feel that has been lost, or never even existed, at many big, modern ski resorts. So as a skier you may think that you d stand out a tad in this traditional alpine setting. Not a bit of it. Bonneval has somehow managed to get the perfect balance of being a village that relies on skiing for much of its winter income but hasn t sold out to it. And whilst the skiing infrastructure is all human scale and basic, the resort s slow old chairlifts carry you up into a mountainscape that is far from human scale and, for that matter, far from basic. Spectacular would be more the word of choice. The vast bulk of 3638 metre Mont Albaron towers above the ski slopes, blue glaciers glinting on its steeper flanks, whilst its snowfields display the dark tracks of ski tourers heading for Italy, on the mountain s far side. Veronique breaks my reverie by pointing out In January we enjoy fresh tracks all over the mountain for days after a big snowstorm; it s very quiet then, not many skiers visit in the depths of winter. To me and Hugh this seems like the perfect package; visit in midwinter after a major dump and stay in a traditional auberge in the village whilst skiing fresh powder every day without the crowds and without the hype. For now, however, we re heading back to the 3000 chair to rip up more of that spring powder before word gets out and everyone joins us. But of course, they won t, because the ski season is now winding down, so effectively we have the slopes to ourselves for the rest of the day. And from what Veronique says, that s pretty much the case every day. Perfect This side of the massif faces north, and the 3000 chairlift will allow you to access it; I m riding it with my mate Hugh and locals Veronique Boniface and Christian Batailli, and as you might expect given the lift s name it deposits us at the resort s high point of 3000 metres, where the snow conditions are consistently excellent. Bonneval has only a modest 25 km of groomed pistes, hence the resort s increasing popularity as a freeride destination, and we follow Christian and Veronique on a long and airy traverse across wide snowfields to a huge, cold, shadowy snowbowl directly beneath Mont lbaron s north face, where we find shin deep powder and enough untracked lined to keep us coming back time and time again. Bearing in mind that this is a day after the Easter weekend break this is quite remarkable. After all, had we been skiing in nearby Val d Isere every slope would be scarred with the tracks of countless skiers; here in Bonneval, after one of the busiest weekends of the ski season, we can still lay down our own lines on run after run. BONNEVAL-SUR-ARC ESSENTIALS GETTING THERE The nearest airport is Chambery, which is just under two hour s drive from Bonneval-sur-Arc. It s also possible to take a train to Modane then a one hour bus transfer to Bonneval. Maximum height 3000m Resort height 1800m Max vert. 1200m Ski area 25km pistes Beginner 40% Intermediate 50% Expert 10% Plus extensive freeride and ski touring terrain For more details visit www.bonneval.haute-maurienne-vanoise.com 66 WINTER 2016 ONBOARD
SKI A LA MODE OAKLEY Flight Deck XM in matt black Make your mark when you hit the slopes of Bonneval in style with this season s best ski gear SWEET PROTECTION Trooper Helmet NORTHFACE Jeppeson jacket www.thenorthface.com ARVA Pro W Transceiver 400 POINT 65 Boblbee GTO 25l www.packs.point65.com DYNASTAR Cham High Mountain 500 ONBOARD WINTER 2016 67