Page 1 of 5 Demonstrate lead climbing on bolted rock climbs Level 3 Credits 3 Purpose People credited with this unit standard are able to: lead climb on single-pitch rock climbing routes with bolts and in-situ anchors; demonstrate descent techniques; belay a climber leading on bolts; demonstrate knowledge of equipment used for lead climbing on bolts; and demonstrate safe practices during lead climbing sessions. Subfield Domain Status Outdoor Recreation Rock Climbing Registered Status date 27 October 2006 Date version published 26 January 2007 Planned review date 31 December 2011 Entry information Accreditation Standard setting body (SSB) Prerequisite: Unit 20157, Demonstrate the use of basic rope systems for top rope rock climbing and abseiling, or demonstrate equivalent knowledge or skills. Evaluation of documentation and visit by NZQA and industry. Sport, Fitness and Recreation Industry Training Organisation Outdoor Recreation Accreditation and Moderation Action Plan (AMAP) reference 0102 This AMAP can be accessed at http://www.nzqa.govt.nz/framework/search/index.do. Special notes 1 This unit standard can be assessed against indoors or on natural rock. It covers the skills and knowledge required to lead climb on bolts indoors. It does not cover all the skills required to lead climb on bolts on natural rock to assess these skills this unit standard must be assessed against in conjunction with Unit 20155, Demonstrate knowledge of anchor systems and belaying for lead climbing on bolted natural rock climbs.
Page 2 of 5 2 All activities must comply with relevant environmental, legislative, and/or regulatory requirements set out in the New Zealand Environmental Care Code, Health and Safety in Employment Act 1992, Injury Prevention, Rehabilitation, and Compensation Act 2001, and their subsequent amendments. The New Zealand Environmental Care Code is available from the Department of Conservation, Head Office, PO Box 10420, Wellington, http://www.doc.govt.nz/. 3 There are minimum assessor requirements for assessment against this unit standard. The details of these requirements are available on the Sfrito website http://www.sfrito.org.nz. Elements and performance criteria Element 1 Lead climb on single-pitch rock climbing routes with bolts and in-situ anchors. 1.1 Warm-up exercises are undertaken before climbing commences which cover the range of movements to be used on the climb and reduce the likelihood of injuries. 1.2 Harness is worn and used according to manufacturer s guidelines. 1.3 Tie-in method used is in line with manufacturer s recommendations and/or organisation guidelines and remains fastened throughout the climb. 1.4 An adequate number of quick draws and/or other clips are taken to enable own protection on the climb. 1.5 Quick draws and/or other clips are organised and racked to ensure they are easy to access during the climb. 1.6 Climbing calls ensure communication between belayer and climber is clear, and that appropriate action is taken by both to maintain safety. 1.7 Quick draws and/or other clips are positioned and clipped to minimise the chance of their opening during a fall. 1.8 Clipping of quick draw and ropes is smooth and efficient. 1.9 Energy efficient climbing is demonstrated. a minimum of five which may include but is not limited to moving fluidly from one point of balance to the next, resting in a balanced position, weight over feet, resting on straight arms, body positioned to promote reach, using feet to keep weight off arms as much as possible, precise foot placements, small step ups, effective use of available handholds.
Page 3 of 5 1.10 Climbing techniques used make the most efficient use of the features available. must include but is not limited to bridging, chimneying, smearing, edging. Element 2 Demonstrate descent techniques. 2.1 Protection from falling is maintained at all times during the change over from ascending to descending. 2.2 System is used which ensures rope cannot be dropped during the change over. 2.3 Methods of descent are demonstrated. being lowered by belayer, protected abseil. 2.4 Route is cleaned in a way that minimises risk to equipment or other climbers. Element 3 Belay a climber leading on bolts. 3.1 Climber is spotted until first bolt is clipped. 3.2 Position is selected to avoid being pulled off balance or struck by falling climber. 3.3 Climbing calls ensure communication between belayer and climber is clear. 3.4 Belay methods are demonstrated. must include but is not limited to belay plate, mechanical device. 3.5 Response to a leader fall is immediate. 3.6 Climber is belayed safely and smoothly while allowing climber freedom of movement. 3.7 A controlled lower of a climber is demonstrated safely.
Page 4 of 5 Element 4 Demonstrate knowledge of equipment used for lead climbing on bolts. belay device, karabiners, slings, ropes, harnesses, helmets, quick draws. 4.1 Equipment is used and stored according to manufacturer s recommendation and any operational guidelines. 4.2 Equipment checks are explained with regard to wear, damage, and when equipment should be retired. 4.3 Characteristics of equipment are identified. may include but is not limited to construction, materials, safety features. Element 5 Demonstrate safe practices during lead climbing sessions. 5.1 Knots are tied correctly. may include but is not limited to retraced figure-eight, clove hitch, tape knot, Prussik knot, classic, French. 5.2 Uses and limitations of knots in a lead climbing and/or abseiling situation are identified. retraced figure-eight, clove hitch, tape knot, Prussik knot, classic, French. 5.3 Rope coiling ensures rope is tidy, coils will not fall apart, and rope can be uncoiled smoothly and easily. 5.4 Safe climbing practices are identified and justified in terms of the principles of fall factors and rope stretch. Please note Providers must be accredited by the Qualifications Authority, or an inter-institutional body with delegated authority for quality assurance, before they can report credits from assessment against unit standards or deliver courses of study leading to that assessment. Industry Training Organisations must be accredited by the Qualifications Authority before they can register credits from assessment against unit standards.
Page 5 of 5 Accredited providers and Industry Training Organisations assessing against unit standards must engage with the moderation system that applies to those standards. Accreditation requirements and an outline of the moderation system that applies to this standard are outlined in the Accreditation and Moderation Action Plan (AMAP). The AMAP also includes useful information about special requirements for organisations wishing to develop education and training programmes, such as minimum qualifications for tutors and assessors, and special resource requirements. Comments on this unit standard Please contact the Sport, Fitness and Recreation Industry Training Organisation Limited info@sfrito.org.nz if you wish to suggest changes to the content of this unit standard.