Generalized Wave-Ray Approach for Propagation on a Sphere and Its Application to Swell Prediction

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Generalized Wave-Ray Approach for Propagation on a Sphere and Its Application to Swell Prediction D. Scott 1, D. Resio 2, and D. Williamson 1 1. & Associates 2. Coastal Hydraulic Laboratory, U.S. Army Engineering Research Development Center

Outline of Talk Introduction Wave-Ray Approach Line Source for Swell Propagation Model Comparisons Simplified Test Cases Pacific Ocean Sea States Conclusions A Diversion: Model Source Terms

Motivations for the Work Improved form for incorporating depth refraction in wave models Investigations of swell propagation and swell decay

Refraction Processes Not generally important at oceanic scale, but a consideration with nested sub-grids

Lake Hindcasts Source: US Geophysical Data Center, NOAA

Model Development Context of 2G models where wave energy propagation consumes at least 50% of the computation time less important for a 3G model Appeal of a 2G Model: Computational speed (25x to 40x factor) Scalability (any size waterbody)

Basic Development Method of characteristics approach following great circle routes and depth-induced curvature (ray back-tracking) E(λ 2,φ 2,θ,f,t) E(λ 1,φ 1,θ,f,t+ t) Interpolation Approach?

Basic Development Solve for intersection location and angle by iteration E(λ 2,φ 2,θ,f,t) E(λ 1,φ 1,θ,f,t+ t)

Eˆ( f, θ) = λ Eˆ ( f, θ ) + λ Eˆ ( f, θ ) + intersection 11 i± n, j± m 1 12 i± n', j± m' 1 λ Eˆ ( f, θ ) + λ Eˆ ( f, θ ) 21 i± n, j± m 2 22 i± n', j± m' 2 λ t = c g t D Eˆ ( f, θ) = (1 λ ) Eˆ ( f, θ) + λ Eˆ( f, θ) ( n) ( n 1) i, j t i, j t intersection

Extension to Higher Order Higher order interpolation cubic spline, polynomial,. In the end we utilized a relatively simple procedure of determining the great circle arc intersections with adjacent grid cells, and using cubic polynomial interpolation

Higher Order Cubic Polynomial Interpolation E(λ 2,φ 2,θ,f,t) E(λ 1,φ 1,θ,f,t+ t)

Gaussian Wave Burst

Extension to Simulation of Swell Propagation Relate waves arriving at any point on the earth to waves passing a fixed, nonintersecting line (a line source ) Ex0 y0 f θ t = E x y f θ xyx0 y0 t D c g (,,,,) (,,, (,,, ), / ) Fundamental assumption: source terms negligible over the propagation distance

Line Source Integration of wave information along a given line Low-frequency (< 0.1 Hz) spectral information stored at regular intervals & replaces the computed wave energy densities in relevant directional and frequency bins

Extension to Simulation of Swell Propagation 11,100 km Store spectral information along a line of latitude 43 deg angle

Line Source Low-frequency energy propagated without diffusion Effects of islands and sub-grid blocking can be readily incorporated

The Wave Model Propagation schemes implemented into a 2 nd Generation wave model WAVAD Some comparisons performed with Wavewatch III v2.22 Settings as per NCEP Operational settings (Tolman & Chalikov, Quickest/Ultimate & Tolman Averaging) Model grid 1 x 1 ; 24 directional bins; 24 frequencies; sub-grid blocking represented

Gaussian Burst of Wave Energy (No Source)

Comparative Results at 80 W, 30 S 2.5 Wave Height Comparisons at 80 deg W, 30 deg S for Gaussian Waves Initiated at 165degW, 45degN 2 WAVAD - First Order WAVAD - Higher Order WW3- First Order WW3 - Quickest Line Integral 1.5 Hm0 (m) 1 Storm Initiation 0.5 0 1/1/1999 0:00 1/6/1999 0:00 1/11/1999 0:00 1/16/1999 0:00 1/21/1999 0:00 Time (hours)

Selection of Different Line Source Locations for Gaussian Burst at 45 deg N Wave Height Comparisons at 80 deg W, 30 deg S for Gaussian Waves Initiated at 165degW, 45degN 3 40 deg N Line Source at 40 deg N 2.5 Line Source at 30 deg N Line Source at 20 deg N 30 deg N 2 Hm0 (m) 1.5 20 deg N 1 0.5 0 1/18 1/19 1/20 1/21 1/22 1/23 1/24 1/25 1/26 1/27 1/28 Time (hours)

Theoretical Moving Cyclonic Storm Target location

Comparative Results at 80 W, 30 S Wave Height Comparisons at 80deg W, 30deg S for Synthetic ETC 3 2.5 WAVAD - First Order WAVAD - Higher Order Line Integral 2 Hm0 (m) 1.5 1 Storm Initiation 0.5 0 1 6 11 16 21 26 31 Time (days)

Simulation of More Realistic Sea States for Comparative Purposes NCEP/NCAR Re-Analysis Winds Only simplistic modification to winds in equatorial region based on buoy data & scatterometer (linear factor) One year 2001

WAVAD Bias: -0.06 SI: 0.19 R: 0.87 Bias: 0.14 SI: 0.18 R: 0.71 Bias: -0.01 SI: 0.23 R: 0.91 Bias: 0.02 SI: 0.22 R: 0.91 Bias: -0.08 SI: 0.27 R: 0.62 Note: sheltering issues, refraction Use of higher order wave-ray scheme had no significant impact on results

WW3 Bias: -0.04 SI: 0.16 R: 0.90 Bias: -0.28 SI: 0.15 R: 0.78 Bias: -0.15 SI: 0.19 R: 0.94 Bias: 0.10 SI: 0.17 R: 0.95 Bias: 0.25 SI: 0.24 R: 0.76 Note: sheltering issues

Typical Wave Height Comparison with Line Integral 6 Lagrangian Approach 5 WAVAD Propagation Scheme Recorded Wave Data 4 Hm0 (m) 3 2 1 0 6/15/2001 0:00 6/25/2001 0:00 7/5/2001 0:00 7/15/2001 0:00 7/25/2001 0:00 8/4/2001 0:00 8/14/2001 0:00 8/24/2001 0:00 9/3/2001 0:00 9/13/2001 0:00

Swell Predictions from a Buoy Network Can t predict swell from a single buoy

2.5 1 deg Resolution 10 deg Resolution 2 20 deg Resolution 1.5 Swell Hm0 (m) 1 0.5 0 1/8 1/15 1/22

Conclusions An outline of semi-lagrangian wave-ray approach to wave propagation has been shown with extensions to higher order and prediction of swell from a line source. Line source approach didn t yield overall improvements under realistic sea states in the Pacific Ocean May aid in defining specific swell events Useful method for isolating source term effects and evaluating diffusion in propagation schemes Can assess areas of influence when assimilating buoy data

A Diversion.. With discussion of Boltzman integrals, etc. coming up over the next couple of days. Yikes!

Source Term Comparisons Observations when carrying out model comparisons WAVAD WaveWatchIII (v2.22, operational parameters)

Comparisons to Pierson-Moskowitz Limit 14 12 WW3 PM Fully-Developed Limit 10 Hm0 (m) 8 6 4 2 0 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 Wind Speed (m/s)

Rate of Development See Rogers (2002) Comparison of Wave Growth U=12 m/s 4.5 4 3.5 3 Hm0 (m) 2.5 2 1.5 1 0.5 0 WW3 WAVAD 1 2 3 4 Time (days)

Drag Coefficient 4 3.5 3 2.5 Cd x 10^3 2 1.5 1 0.5 WW3 WAVAD - Garratt (1977) Lin et al (2002) 0 0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 U (m/s)

Observations Regarding Source Terms Wide difference in behaviour exhibited Implications towards our understanding of wave physics? Interesting that similar results can be provided under such disparate source behaviour

Pacific Waves Initiative? Can we understand swell decay with the existing buoy network? Have we learned much since Snodgrass et al. (1966)?