By Rick Light Los Alamos Mountaineers Climbing School April 2010
1. To obtain course materials from the web, go to: http://lamountaineers.org 2. Click the DOWNLOADS box at the top of the page. 3. Find the Canyoneering Teaser course description and click on the link provided. 2
An overview not a preparatory course it is: Not intended to give you what you need to start canyoneering today, but Structured to give you a taste of what canyoneering requires, Designed to inspire interest in canyon exploration, and, Considered a lead-in to a possible extension of this climbing school in the future. (Maybe a short course followed by a canyon trip!) 3
Often canyons chosen are gorgeous, uncrowded, secluded, amazing For competent climbers, doing canyons is a lot like doing your first f big wall, without the work: There are a lot of rope management issues, new things to learn or figure out, and a fair amount of problem-solving required. Once you've started down a canyon, there can be a vague sense of uncertainty about whether you are up to the challenges ahead. Canyoneering provides numerous opportunities to screw up, preferably avoided. Canyoneering is a blast! 4
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The rating is divided into four parts: Technical Class (1,2,3,4),, which indicates the technicality of the terrain and the type of rope-work required; Water Rating (A,B,C),, which indicates the complications due to flowing or still water; Risk Rating (G,PG,R,X), which indicates the presence of more risk factors; and Time or Grade (I,II,III,IV,V,VI),, which indicates the length of the adventure. Slot (S),, which indicates a tight slot canyon. 6
Hikers of Reasonable Fitness and Skills will like 1A, 1B, 2A and 2B adventures. Climbers will generally enjoy 3A and 3B routes. Need good rope- work skills, judgment and experience. It is essential to have the right gear and know how to use it - like lots of slings, static ropes and wet suits. Creative natural anchor skills are developed by getting out with experienced canyoneers. Climbers will want to have at least five or six 3A and 3B routes under their belts before taking on 4A and 4B canyons, or any canyon with an R or X rating. Experienced Canyoneers will understand that flowing water has its own risks and techniques that require special training. Class 3C and 4C canyons should only be attempted by trained, well- equipped canyoneers. 7
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Clothing: Ranges from standard hiking attire to specialized water-protection suits. Must be selected based on weather expected, canyon difficulty and d water hazards, experience of participants, and duration of the trip. Backpacks: Normal backpacking, hiking, climbing packs often have features that t limit their applicability to canyoneering such as outside pockets and straps that can snag in narrow spaces, structure that is not intended to handle water well, limited resistance to abrasion, and wider stance than desired for narrow canyons. Svelte, water-draining, durable, simple packs work best in the 30L size range for many canyons, 40L-50L for longer, more advanced canyons. Even, dry-bags with harnesses can work very well. 9
Climbing Gear: Helmets: same as for normal rock climbing. Harnesses: should have adjustable leg-loops loops (adjustable enough to fit over a wet/dry suit), haul loop, gear loops, and not absorb water. Shoes: do NOT use boots, climbing shoes, sandals, or tennis shoes use approach shoes designed to handle water (drain well, sticky rubber on soles), or special canyoneering shoes. Ropes: are generally static ropes, not dynamic lead ropes, except in cases of advanced canyoneering. Most rope-work has to do with descending (rappelling), lowering packs, and avoiding potholes. Special canyoneering rope bags are available that float and are designed to allow feeding the rope from inside the bag while rappelling. Rappel / Belay Devices: can be the same as for normal rock climbing, however, some are more canyoneering-friendly (e.g., those that allow for friction adjustment in the middle of a rap). Care must be taken to ensure device is not lost after rappelling into water, etc. Biners: Large HMS manual lockers are the most common, along with ovals, for symmetry and ease of use. 10
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Normal climbing knots for rope and webbing: Bowline, rethreaded figure 8, clove hitch, Munter hitch, figure 8 on a bight, girth hitch, water knot, fisherman s s knot, prusik, Bachmann knot, Klemheist knot, slipknot, etc. Self-equalizing equalizing anchor set-ups (sliding X, etc.). Auto-block set-ups for easy rope pulling. Pre-rigging rigging for rescue during a rappel (Munter etc.) (Munter-mule with tie-off, Retrievable anchor set-ups. Specialized knots and rigging for advanced canyons. 12
Knowing how to make sure the rope will pull. Rappelling skills: Rappelling on single and double strands, using thin and thick ropes. Having efficient rope-work for multiple short rappels. Ability to adjust friction in the middle of rappels. Multi-stage rappels - not pulling the rope until the next set of anchors is in hand. Directed rappels and appropriate rope rigging. Rappelling into pools (without drowning). 13
Building natural anchors in difficult situations: Thorough understanding of how to set anchors safely. Know how to use natural features such as chock-stones, arches, etc. Knot-chocks when, where and how to use them. Dead-man anchors when, where, how to use them. Getting past keeper potholes: Deep understanding of the problem, possible solutions, and risks. Pack tosses, and other counter-balance solutions. Partner-assisted assisted climbs. Hooks, octopus-rigging for pack toss, rigging and risks. Guided rappels and bridging techniques to cross potholes. 14
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"There have been joys too great to be described in words, and there have been griefs upon which I have not dared to dwell, and with these in mind I say, climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are naught without prudence, and that a momentary negligence may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste, look well to each step, and from the beginning think what may be the end." Edward Whymper 16
Get Some Skills. Canyoneering requires specific skills - learn them, either by taking a course or by hanging out with more experienced canyoneers. This class is just an overview. Canyons change high water, low water, after flash floods: the same canyon becomes a completely different adventure. Plan for and know how to handle first aid situations, especially dehydration, heat stroke, heat exhaustion, and other desert-related related injuries, along with cold related problems due to exposure to cold water (hypothermia). 17
Don't be a Beginner, Led by a Beginner. The majority of accidents occur to people doing their first or second canyon; people who are unfamiliar with canyoneering and the skills required, often in large groups, led by someone who has only a vague idea of what they are doing. Don't do this. 18
Don t Get In Over Your Head. Choose your route based on your skills and the skills of your group. This is not a contest - if you are in it for the challenge and adrenaline, you are in the wrong sport - take up sky diving. 19
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Bring the Right Stuff. Skimping on gear is not a good idea. Everyone should have a helmet, a harness, their own rappel device, and cowtails (harness anchor lines) and biners. When required, everyone should have a wet suit or dry suit. Everyone should be prepared to rappel on the rope chosen for the adventure. Everyone should be prepared to handle contingencies. 21
Pay Attention to Flash Flood Possibilities. Know the weather forecast upstream as well as in your canyon. Pay attention to the sky. Do NOT go Canyoneering during the Monsoon. Do NOT go Canyoneering when big thunderstorms are forming. 22
Rain far away can create a flood where you least expect it. If the Thunderheads are already forming by noon, things are going g to be bad. If you cannot see through the rain falling during a thunderstorm,, it is strong enough to create a flash flood. From the start of rain to flash flood conditions can take less than t 5 minutes. If your inner gut says 'no', listen to it. Go do something else. Pay attention to signs like changes in water color, temperature, debris, level these could save your life. However high you think you need to be to be safe from the flood, go at least twice as high. 23
Avoid Hubris. Good traditional climbing skills are the basis for good canyoneering skills, but there's more stuff to learn. Most canyons can easily humble a large ego. Don't Stick the Rope. Consider every rappel carefully. Wet ropes are often much more difficult to pull than dry ropes. Canyon rappels are often much more difficult to pull than climbing rappels. Check the Anchors. Canyons are often descended by folks with really poor skills. This leads to a lot of poorly chosen, poorly placed and poorly rigged anchors. Check anchors and rigging before using them, re-rig rig when needed, and remove unhelpful slings. 24
Zion & Southern Utah: http://www.zionnational-park.com/zion-national-park-canyoneering.htm http://www.canyoneeringusa.com/utah/ Southern Nevada and California: http://www.dankat.com/advents/content.htm http://www.dankat.com/swhikes/content.htm Arizona: http://www.toddshikingguide.com/aztechnicalcanyoneering/index.htm Lots of good technical info along with a "Canyon Index" section for the America's in the ACA forums: http://www.canyoneering.net/forums/ 25
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