Technical standards for rescuers Wilderness Search and Rescue Compiled by the Technical Training Group, 2008. Introduction There are a wide variety of skills within Wilderness Search and Rescue (WSAR), not least of which are technical ropework skills. While it is understood that not everybody who is involved in rescue will be a competent rock climber, all rescuers deployed into the field on any rescue should have at least some basic rope skills. Note that it is vital that anyone wishing to become involved in any field role must be comfortable out in the mountains. Regular mountain activities (such as hiking or kloofing, for example) must be a part and parcel of all WSAR members recreational time. WSAR cannot aim to train people in the skills that come with such activities, it can only enhance the experience a potential rescuer already has and provide them with a specific skill set that is relevant for any role they may have within the rescue organisation, be it highly technical, or merely basic rope work. This document aims to detail the measurable levels of competency to which WSAR members involved in technical mountain rescues can conform before their inclusion and acceptance into the WSAR technical group. It will specify the process by which one may attain each specific level, and how one can expect to be assessed in order to be accepted as being able to fulfil the functions of members at that level. Mountain rescue is a team activity. It is not expected, nor required that everyone who joins the team will be a top rock climber, or rope technician. Dedication and willingness to work within the team to the best of one s ability are the most valuable prerequisites. WSAR would like to encourage each member to continually work to maintain and/or improve their skills. It is incumbent on each organisation to ensure that its members participate regularly in their own training systems. Ultimately, each rescuer bears the responsibility to do their utmost to learn and practise the skills that will ensure they are safe, efficient and useful within the often highly demanding environment in which mountain rescues take place.
The levels of competency are as follows: 1. SAR Mountaineering Competency levels This level includes all non technical operations (simple stretcher carries, searches, etc) where the primary object of the certification is to ensure that team members can take care of themselves on the mountain and additionally be able to render assistance to others. In addition, members at this level will be expected to be familiar with the safety requirements while working in and around helicopters, and be familiar with the hoisting procedure for both Oryx, and Skymed. For night and overnight operations we would expect all team members to be classified at this level. This is the minimum level required by all field team leaders. For consideration for membership of the Technical Group, WSAR members may be assessed as either Tech 1 or Tech 2 level rescuers. 2. SAR Technical 1 This is the basic level of technical competency required of any team member participating in a technical (ie. steep ground with ropework) operation. 3. SAR Technical 2 This is the advanced level of technical competency required of the core technical team. It must include experience in actual operational rescues. All technical field leaders, safety officers, team members with advanced helicopter capabilities (ie: First tier heli group) and people who go over the edge on all but the simplest of technical operations would be expected to possess this level of proficiency. 4. Helicopter group The process by which WSAR members may become accepted onto the helicopter group has been determined by the Helicopter Technical Group (HTG). The helicopter group has several tiers of involvement: 1st Response 2nd Response the Trainees the so called Third Tier, and Medics The detailed requirements of each level are as outlined in the following sections.
SAR Mountaineering Approximately 100 or more mountain day walks in a variety of mountain ranges. 5 or more hikes of more than 2 nights out. Good map reading and navigation skills, including a knowledge of latitude/longitude as well as UTM grid systems. Familiarity with the use of navigational aides such as compass and GPS. Knowledge of the various stretchers in use and proficiency in their assembly and the conveyance of patients. Be familiar with general operational procedures in a mountain rescue scenario. Be familiar with field roles and responsibilities as well as the normal chain of command. Basic radio communication skills. Familiarity with radios and systems. Knowledge of basic voice procedure, familiarity with callsigns and interaction with other agencies in the system. Knowledge of basic helicopter procedures and safety. Familiarity with helicopter hoisting procedure. Ability to assess a situation and provide good sitreps, including weather, condition of patient, safety of the party on scene, and rescue requirements analysis. Attended at least one basic first aid course. Possess the ability to move safely, while carrying personal and rescue equipment, over complex mountain terrain. SAR Technical 1 For admission to the WSAR Technical Group, in addition to the requirements of SAR Mountaineering, members at this level must possess the following skills: Have demonstrated proficiency with all the requirements as outlined in the Guidelines for basic personal rope skills for WSAR members involved in technical mountain rescue document (Appendix I). Be familiar with the basics of placing trad protection, and the names, functions and limitations of the commonly used forms of such protection (ie: cams, nuts, hexes, etc). Have gained experience trad climbing (minimum of ten trad routes) at any grade, either leading or seconding. Trad climbing here defined as climbing at least a single pitch but preferably multi pitch rock climb while wearing a climbing harness and using ropes and trad rock gear for protection.
SAR Technical 2 Whereas the Tech 1 level stresses personal skills, Tech 2 emphasises that the team member will in addition, be a regular trad (not sport) rock climber, or at least have considerable experience in trad climbing, possess knowledge and experience in system skills, and be able to work within a team, in a technical ropework setting. Team members will have met all of the requirements of SAR Mountaineering and SAR Technical 1 plus the following: Have lead approximately 100 or more trad rock climbs of grade 14/15 (F1) or higher. Be able to demonstrate proficiency in the use of all technical rescue equipment, as well as demonstrate advance improvising skills such as abseiling with a Münter hitch, or being able to construct systems using only basic equipment such as slings and carabiners. Have attended periodic refresher courses in first aid, with an emphasis on trauma and mountain related medical emergencies. Be able to instruct others in the safe execution of all basic technical procedures as outlined in SAR Tech 1 Familiarisation with the SOP s for rigging the Table Mountain cablecar Familiarisation with complex rigging systems such as inclined and horizontal high lines Have participated in at least two helicopter training sessions, with the regular Helicopter Group (at least one SAAF Oryx session, and one Skymed session). Have experience and ability in leadership in mountain and rescue environment. WSAR Helicopter group Capabilities of Heli group 1 st response and 2 nd response members. All Heli group 1 st response members must be SAR Tech 2 level. All Heli group 2 nd response members must be at least SAR Mountaineering level, however, it will be expected of these people that they will work actively towards improving their technical skills if they wish to maintain this level. Capabilities of Heli group Medics and Third tier members The detailed requirements for this group will be determined by the TTG/HTG. However, WSAR acknowledges that appropriately skilled medics are in short supply in mountain rescue and as such makes every effort to encourage medics with mountain skills to become involved in helicopter operations and training. The list of third tier members may consist of less experienced rescuers who have made a commitment to improve their skills and availability for rescue. This group will change depending on the number of WSAR training sessions and actual operational rescues each member attends. WSAR will attempt where possible to give these folk at least some exposure to helicopter training. Application process for joining the Helicopter group.
The helicopter group is limited numbers, but from time to time one or more members will either resign or be relegated, thus opening up positions for new members. An invitation will then be extended to everyone within WSAR to submit an application should they feel they would like to be considered for inclusion. Those who feel that they have the necessary skills and commitment need to have the agreement of their team or organisation leader before submitting an application. There is a form on the website (under the section WSAR Helicopter Rescue Team ) which is available for download. This should be completed and submitted to the HTG, after which it will be processed. Appointments and assessments It is important that the process of training rescuers, as well as their appointments to the various levels outlined above be implemented fairly and with transparency. The TTG will endeavour to ensure that all deserving WSAR members are thoroughly and appropriately assessed with respect to their technical abilities and skills. Admission to Tech Level 1 Anyone who is a member of a signatory team or organisation (in terms of the Memorandum of Understanding) and who fulfils the requirements of the SAR Mountaineering level, as detailed above, is eligible for assessment for the various technical levels. They may request an assessment, which may then be performed at any one of the Personal Rope Skills sessions by a WSAR senior technical trainer (determined or accepted thus by the TTG). They will need to demonstrate the appropriate skills to the trainer, who will then submit a written recommendation to the TTG, which will be required to render a response to the trainee within one calendar month following receipt of the recommendation. They will also need to fulfil the following requirements: regularly attend WSAR Personal Rope Skills training sessions, regularly attend WSAR Field Training sessions, attend at least four rescues annually. Admission to Tech Level 2 Regular attendance of training events Regular attendance of rescue operations Able to demonstrate the ability to instruct Level 1 rescuers in all aspects/techniques required by that level Fulfilled all requirements as outlined in the section SAR Tech 2 Assessed as competent in those aspects by the members of the TTG, the majority of whom must agree that the candidate is suitable for inclusion in Tech level 2. General notes Enthusiasm and commitment to the rescue effort is a prerequisite to being involved in mountain rescue; skill alone is not enough. The ability to work within a team in a safe and efficient manner, with an emotionally mature attitude is vital.
Mountain rescue is a serious undertaking. Nobody has the right to participate; one must demonstrate that one is able to fulfil the necessary requirements in order to provide an efficient, progressive and safe rescue capability. WSAR Technical Training Group 2008 Members: Brent Jennings, Jason Collins, Andrew Lewis, Andre Schoon, Johann Papendorf, Stefan Moser, Rik de Decker, Wayne Kitney Appendix I Appendices Guidelines for basic personal rope skills for WSAR members involved in technical mountain rescue The skills outlined in this document represent some of the basic aspects of ropework and their applications for rescue. All WSAR members who respond to technical call-outs must be familiar and confident with the knots, equipment and techniques outlined here. You are expected to make every effort to maintain currency with respect to skills. Do not hesitate to ask if there are any queries or doubts about techniques or equipment; training involves learning, and failure to be open about your shortcomings may cost someone their life. You will regularly be required to demonstrate proficiency in basic techniques and the safe use of all equipment. Knots, Hitches and Bends You are expected to be familiar with the following knots and how to tie them, as well as know when and how they should be used. Figure of eight Figure of eight on a bight Figure of eight follow-through Figure of eight double loop (aka double fig of eight ) Clove hitch Stopper knots Double fisherman s knot Joining ropes In-line knots (such as the inline 8) Alpine butterfly Bowline type knots Münter hitch (aka Italian friction hitch) Münter with slip hitch (as for backrope for stretcher hoist to a helicopter) Tape knot Reef knot Three-wrap prusik Klemheist or French prusik Dogging-the-tail s knot (aka dog s tail knot ) Equipment You are expected to be familiar with the following equipment, and its deployment, limitations and safe use. Regular training actually using the devices is essential. Various belay devices: Grigri I D Eddy Allp, and other controlled-rate decenders (CRD s) Belay plates and tubes, ATC s etc. How to lock these off and unlock them under load. Handled ascenders (jumars)
Shunt Rescusender (or similar rope clamp) Non-return pulleys (ie Petzl Pro-traxion) Some improvisation skills in the absence of specific equipment, such as: belay a load with a Münter hitch ascend a rope with prusiks using slings to form a basic sit harness Basic rope handling You are required to know the types and lengths of ropes commonly used in rescue, as well as the differences between climbing rope and static rope and their basic properties, as well as the uses and shortcomings of various thicknesses. You must know the correct method for packing a rope in a rope bag, and checking its condition when doing so. You are required to know various methods of coiling a rope if it is to be carried without a rope bag (such as shouldercoiling, or mountaineers wrapping ). Basic techniques You must be proficient in the following techniques. You also need to be able to demonstrate their safe use. Abseil/rappel using different devices (and locking off) An autolocking device (such as a Grigri) is recommended for rescue work. Everyone must be familiar with the commonly used belay devices such as the ATC, and know how to abseil with them while protected with a backup prusik or shunt. Know the different approaches to safely abseil on a single AND double rope. Increasing friction descending Ascending rope ( jumaring ) with handled ascenders Ascending rope using prusik type knots and slings Passing a knot on descent or ascent of a rope Change over from ascending to descending, and vice versa. Change over from one suspended rope to another Belaying: using various belay devices, you must be able to: Lower a load under tension (and how to increase friction) belay paying rope out, belay taking rope in. self-belay using shunt or prusik You need to know the basic principles of setting up anchors You must understand the principle and use of safety ropes at a rigging site, or on steep terrain. This includes protecting a traverse along a ledge. You should also understand the fundamentals of a Z-lift type mechanical advantage lower/raise system, and the various roles that people working with such a system must fulfil. Stretchers You must be familiar with the commonly used stretchers (i.e. Troll Alphin, and Thomas stretcher) and how to assemble and disassemble them. You must know how to safely carry stretchers over mountainous terrain, and act as a team You must know how to safely back-belay a stretcher down steep terrain You must know how to safely belay a stretcher up steep terrain You must be familiar with proper casualty packaging with the commonly used stretchers Communication skills You must be familiar with the following communication skills: Commonly used calls and pro-words in use in mountain rescue. Basic radio voice procedure (take a comms course if you want detail, WSAR offers these). Understand the various roles allocated in a technical field team, and the type of skills the various people must possess. General Members are strongly urged to attend as many training sessions as they can. This includes the indoor training and field technical training offered by WSAR, in addition to any training that is offered by their own teams. Attendance lists are kept.
Please note that this document aims to outline the basic personal skills that members of any technical callout must have. It does not aim to document the basic mountain skills that are ESSENTIAL for all WSAR members who respond to mountain calls. These skill standards are beyond the scope of this outline, and will be dealt with separately, save to outline the basic points below, the first two of which are most important: Defined experience walking in various mountain ranges including overnight trips into wilderness areas (ie no trails). This should form part of the member s normal, regular recreation. Possess a high level of physical fitness and the ability to move safely, while carrying personal and rescue equipment, over complex mountain terrain. Good map reading and navigational skills. Trad climbing experience is essential for all but the most basic technical involvement Knowledge of basic helicopter procedures and safety. Ability to assess a rescue situation, including giving accurate sitreps, weather information, terrain information, and patient assessment. Defined first aid experience. Knowledge of the commonly used stretchers and patient conveyance in the field.