Table of content Introduction 5 1. Part 1. Assembly 6 1.1. Tools needed for Assembly 6 1.2. Glossary 6 1.3. Hulls 7 1.3.1. Mounting the beams 7 1.3.2. Fixing the mast rotation cleats 8 1.3.3. Mounting the staymasters 8 1.3.4. Front beam pre-bend 9 1.4. Trampoline 10 1.4.1. Fitting the trampoline 10 1.4.2. Fixing the foot strap 13 1.4.3. Trapeze shockcord 13 1.4.4. Spinnaker block 14 1.5. Spinnaker pole 15 1.5.1. Fixing the snuffer ring and shute 15 1.6. Mast 16 1.6.1. Mast base and diamond wires 16 1.6.2. Fixing the diamonds 18 1.6.3. Spreader arms 19 1.6.4. Making sure the mast is straight 22 1.6.5. Spinnaker block 23 1.6.6. Mainsail halyard 24 1.6.7. Fixing the stays 26 1.6.8. Jib halyard 26 1.6.9. Adjustable trapeze units 27 1.6.10. Fixing the trapeze wires 28 1.6.11. Cleats 29 1.6.12. Cunningham 30 1.7. Rudders 31 1.8. Ropes and halyards 35

1.8.1. Spinnaker sheet 35 1.8.2. Spinnaker retrieve block 35 1.8.3. Tack release line and tack line 36 1.8.4. Jib sheet 37 1.8.5. Mast rotation 38 1.8.6. Righting line 39 1.8.7. Mainsheet 40 1.8.8. Mainsail traveler 42 2. Part 2. Rigging 43 2.1. Raising the mast 43 2.1.1. Preparing 43 2.1.2. Fixing the stays and trapeze wires 44 2.1.3. Spinnaker halyard 45 2.1.4. Raising the mast 46 2.1.5. Lowering the mast 49 2.2. Rigging the boat 50 2.2.1. Spinnaker pole 50 2.2.2. Jib sheet 52 2.2.3. Tack line 53 2.2.4. Jib traveler. 53 2.2.5. Cunningham 53 2.2.6. Boom 54 2.2.7. Mast rotation 54 2.2.8. Spinnaker halyard 55 2.3. Fixing the sails 57 2.3.1. Spinaker 57 2.3.2. Raising the jib 58 2.3.3. Lowering the jib 60 2.3.4. Mainsail battens 61 2.3.5. Raising the mainsail 62 2.3.6. Lowering the mainsail 63 2.3.7. Mainsail cunningham 65

2.3.8. Mainsail outhaul 65 3. Tuning guide 66 3.1. Mast rake 66 3.2. Spreader rake 66 3.3. Diamond tension 67 3.4. Side stay tension 67 3.5. Rudder rake 67 3.6 Front beam pre-bend 67 4. Maintenance 68 5. Warranty 69 6. Dealer Support 69 7. Other Nacra products 69

Introduction Congratulations for buying your new Nacra 17! This manual covers everything you need on assembling your new Nacra. Familiarize yourself with this manual to help ensure proper assembly and maintenance. This is a two part manual. If you take your boat out of the box you have to begin with the Part 1. Assembly. In that section the whole boat is being prepared for Part 2. Rigging. If you recieve your platform assembled, you can begin with Part 2. Rigging and then go sailing! Part 2. Rigging continues with the boat (and every subsystem) as we left it in Part 1. Assembly. Before you go sailing also check the tuning guide for tips!

Part 1. Assembly This part of the manual is only for people who get their boat out of the box and have to assemble their boat completely. If your boat is already assembled by your dealer, you can continue with Part 2. Rigging. 1.1. Tools needed for Assembly You will need: Sharp knife Needle nose pliers Phillips screw driver Regular screw driver Tape measurer Pop rivet tool 17 mm ring spanner Torque wrench (5/16 hex key and 9/16 spanner) Loose gauge 5 mm metal drill Tape to secure rings 1.2. Glossary Used Terms Bow: Front of the boat Batten: Thin strip in the sail Bridle wire: Wire that connects the bow and forestay Boom: Spar at the foot of the sail Cleat: Fitting used for cleating ropes and halyards Clew: The lower and most aft corner of the sail Crossbar: Bar that connects the rudders Dolphinstriker: Load bearing bar under the front beam Downhaul/Cunningham: Rope to tighten and stretch the luff of the sail. Foot: Bottom edge of the sail Forestay: Wire supporting the mast in aft direction. Located in front of the boat. Goose neck: A fitting used to connect the boom to the mast Halyard: Rope used to raise or lower sails Head: The top of the sail Hound: Point where the sails are connected to the mast Jib: Front sail Jib sheet: Control rope for the jib Leech: Trailing edge of the sail Luff: Leading edge of the sail Mainsail: Sail at back of the boat Main sheet: Control rope for the mainsail Mast rake: Angle of the mast to the boat Shackle: U-shaped metal strip with a pin to secure wires Shrouds: Wire supporting the mast in lateral direction Spinnaker: Big sail hoisted at the front of the boat when sailing downwind Spinnaker pole: The pole in between the hulls to fly the spinnaker Spreaders: Metal bars placed in pairs to control the bend in the mast Staymaster: Adjustable schroud connector to control the schroud tension Stern: Back of the boat Tack: Forward lower corner of the sail Tiller: Telescopic rod connected to crossbar to steer the boat Traveller: Track on the backbeam to connect the mainsheet Trapeze: Wire meant for hanging on the side of the boat while sailing

1.3. Hulls 1.3.1 Mounting the beams Place the starboard and port hull box next to each other and make sure that the hulls are facing the same way. Position the hulls approximately 2 m apart from each other. Be careful not to scratch the boat, so it is best to use hull supports and a cattrack or the supports in the hull box, by cutting the excess cardboard away. Mounting the beams Step 1 & 2 Step 3. Place the crossbeams in the beam sockets on the hulls and make sure that the beams are facing the right way. The front beam has a jib track mounted, which should be on top and facing the front of the boat. The rear beam has two eyelets mounted on the back which should be facing the back of the boat. Take time to align the crossbeams with the pre-drilled bolt holes. Step 3 Step 4. Take the four beam bolts together with the washers and grease. Grease all the bolts and also grease the bolt holes a bit. If both beams are aligned well, hand tighten all the bolts to get the thread started. The forward bolts are Allen heads. The fibreglass washer should be on the bottom and the metal one on top. The washers are already put in the front beam. Step 4

Step 5. After hand tightening the bolts, work your way around the boat and tighten all the beam bolts to about 30 Nm on the torque wrench. Do not exceed the recommended 30 Nm as over tightening results in damaged threads! Step 5 1.3.2 Fixing the mast rotation cleats Get the two mast rotation cleats from the rigging box and screw them in the pre drilled holes in the hull, which are located about 90 cm behind the front beam. Fixing the mast rotation cleats Placing the side stay adjusters 1.3.3. Mounting the staymasters Mount the staymaster onto the hull with the bolt and nut. Make sure the nut is inboard. Tighten it firmly, but make sure the staymaster is still able to turn a little.

1.3.4. Front beam pre-bend There should always be pre-bend on the front beam. This is done by tensioning the pin of the dolphin striker. After each session the first three times the boat is sailed the following procedure shall be completed (with the mast taken off!): Dolphin striker pin Unscrew the nuts above and under the front beam on the dolphin striker pin. Screw the nut below the dolphin striker up until both screws are tight against the front beam.

1.4. Trampoline 1.4.1. Fitting the trampoline Slide the front edge of the trampoline into the slot in the front beam. The hiking straps should be facing up. Make sure the trampoline is in the middle of the catamaran. Trampoline Step 1 Insert the tie rod into the slot in the rear of the trampoline. Step 2 Step 3. Attach the rear lacing line. To do this, tie one end of the aft lacing line to a button which is located the most right or left of the rear beam (it does not matter on which side you start). With the other end of the line we continue through the tie rod in the trampoline. We then go back to the button we came from and then move to the next button and repeat this process until we reach the other end of the beam. Make sure you do this the right way, since there is only one right way to do this. Step 3

Step 3 Step 4. Tighten the rear lacing line firmly and then tie it down at the end. Step 4 Step 4

Step 5. Take one of the side lacing lines and tie it down onto the first trampoline spanner band. That is the one closest to the front beam on either side of the boat. We take the other end of the lacing line and take it around the first button on the hull. We then go back through the trampoline spanner band and then move to the next trampoline spanner band. When moving to the next trampoline spanner it is important to run the lacing line under the part of the line which came from the previous spanner (look at the pictures). Repeat this process and tie the lacing line down at the end. As we have only done one side of the trampoline so far, you should not tighten it very firmly. Just have a bit of tension. Step 5 and 6 Step 6. Repeat step 5 for the other side of the trampoline and tighten it very firmly. Make sure your trampoline is in the middle of your hulls after this whole process. Step 5 and 6 Step 5 and 6

1.4.2. Fixing the foot strap Tie the middle foot strap into place firmly Fixing the foot straps Step 1 1.4.3. Trapeze shockcord The trapeze shock cords for the crew are already put in the front beam and need no attention. Take the two aft trapeze shock cords for the helm out of the box. Put the aft trapeze shock cord through the block on the trampoline and tie a knot on the outside to prevent the shock cord from getting through the eye again. Trapeze shockcords Step 1 and 2 Step 3. Go under the trampoline and take the other end of the shock cord and put it in front of the dolphin striker pin and through the block on the other side of the trampoline. Make sure to tie a knot on both ends of the shockcord to prevent it from sliding through the blocks.

1.4.4. Spinnaker block Take a block from the box and tie it onto the trampoline using a small rope. Make sure you do two loops! Look at the picture for the location. Spinnaker block Make sure to do two loops and tighten it firmly!

1.6. Mast Masts should be regularly inspected for water tightness and diamond wire wear. Make sure fittings are sealed with silicone. Replace wires that show any signs of wear. Check diamond wire attachment points, turn buckles and seizing wire. These areas could cause serious mast failure! Mast base and diamond wires Step 1 1.6.1. Mast base and diamond wires Take the mast base, brass diamond adjuster block, the diamond adjuster bolt and metal washer, diamond wires and grease out of the box. It is preferable to place the mast on supports, this makes it easier to build the mast. Step 2 Grease the threads of the diamond wires and turn one diamond wire in the brass diamond adjuster block. When the diamond wire is fixed, place a ring at the bottom. Make sure that the brass diamond adjuster block is facing the right way! The brass diamond adjuster block should be able to slide into the mast correctly and the diamond wires should be diverging upwards (see pictures of step 2 and 3!!). Step 2

Step 3. Turn the second diamond wire in the brass diamond adjuster block. This will be slightly more difficult than the first diamond wire, since the other diamond wire is already fixed. To make things easier let one person turn the diamond wire at the end and let the other person turn the diamond wire in the brass diamond adjuster block. You may have to use pliers since the diamond wire thread is slippery, due to the grease. Don t forget the rings at the bottom! Step 3 Step 3 Make sure the wires are diverging! Step 4. Take the top ends of the diamond wires and slide them through the diamond inserts in the mast base. Then slide the brass diamond block in the mast. Step 4

Step 5. Grease the diamond adjuster bolt, place the washer and put the bolt through the mast base. Then turn it in the brass diamond block, but only get the thread started. We don t want to put tension on the diamond wires, since we still have to attach them in the top. Step 5 Grease the bolt! Only get the thread started! Step 6. Push the mast base in the mast. Step 6 1.6.2. Fixing the diamonds Bend the diamond wire connector away from the mast. Fixing the diamonds Step 1

Place the diamond wire onto the diamond wire connector and attach it with a clevis pin and ring. The ring should be on the outside. Don t forget to tape the ring! Step 3. Put some wear tape under the diamond wire connector. Then bend the diamond wire connector to the mast again. Step 2 and 3 Tape the ring 1.6.3. Spreader arms Take the forward and aft spreader bars and spreader bar adjuster screws from the box. Grease the thread of the spreader bar adjuster screws with marine grease. (e.g. Molykote Longterm W2) Spreader arms Step 1 Grease the threads Assemble the two spreader bars together by using the clevis pins from the box. Step 2

59 mm Step 3. Measure the distance from the beginning of the spreader bar adjuster screw to the beginning of the spreader bar. This distance should be 59 mm on both spreaders for now. This is a very powerful trim option on the boat and regulates the spreader rake. The amount of required spreader rake varies from team to team and influences the pre-bend of the mast. We will discuss and measure this later in the manual. Step 3 Step 4. Attach the spreaders to the mast with the clevis pins and rings. Make sure the rings are on the bottom. Don t forget to tape the rings! Step 4 Tape the rings! Step 5. Take the rubber end cap and some of the supplied thin wire to secure the diamonds. Wind the thin wire around the end of the spreader arm and then put the two ends of the wire through the rubber end cap. Then slide the rubber end cap over the end of the spreader arm. Step 5

Step 6. Slide the diamond wires into the corresponding slots at the end of the spreaders. Make sure the diamond wire is completely in the slot! Step 6 Make sure the diamond wire is completely in the slot! Step 7. Secure the diamond wire onto the spreader with the thin wire. Do this by twisting both thin wire ends around each side of the diamond wire. Then bring the two ends together and twist them into each other. Cut off the excess thin wire ensuring it is bent neatly onto the diamond wires as to prevent the wire from tearing the sails. Step 7 Step 8. Measure the spreader rake by placing a sail batten (or something else) on the diamond wires, directly besides the spreader arm. Then measure the spreader rake with the tape measure. The pre-bend should be between 45 mm. See the trim sheet for tips. Also check if the spreader bars are perpendicular to the mast! To adjust the spreader rake turn the rake adjuster screws in or out. Make sure there is no tension on the diamond wires while adjusting! The distance on both rake adjuster screws should be the same. Always check if the spreader bars are perpendicular to the mast! Step 8 Make sure both spreader bars are perpendicular to the mast!

Step 9. Put tension on the diamond wires by screwing in the mast bolt. Measure the tension on the diamond wires with the loose gauge. This value should be about 38. More tension means more pre-bend in the mast and that means less pressure in your sails. For now, put the tension on 38 (125kg/280lbs). See the trim guide for tips! It s available for download on: Step 9 1.6.4. Making sure the mast is straight After the mast is assembled have a look from the mast base along the mast rail to see if the mast is straight. If it is, skip this paragraph and continue with 1.6.5. Step 1 If the mast bends to the right, shorten the port diamond wire (like in 1.6.3. step 3). If the mast bends to the left, shorten the starboard diamond wire. Put tension on the rig again and have a look down the mast rail to see if it s straight now. If it is not, repeat step 2 until the mast is straight. Step 2

1.6.5. Spinnaker block Take the spinnaker bale line and a block. Slide the spinnaker bale line in one of the pre-drilled spinnaker bale line holes and let it come out in the hole on the other side. Tie a figure 8 knot to prevent it from sliding back again. Step 9 Take the other end of the spinnaker bale line and take it through the middle of the block. Spinnaker block Step 1,2 and 3 Step 1,2 and 3 Step 3. Go around the mast with the spinnaker block line and slide it through the hole we just used next to the previous one. Let it come out on the other side again and tie a figure 8 knot.

Step 4. Take the spinnaker block line and tie it to the top of the block. Tie the other end to the eyelet in the top of the mast. Make sure this line is tight when the spinnaker halyard block is pulled down. Test this by pulling the block down. Tight line! Step 5. Take some wear tape and place it underneath the spinnaker halyard block. Make sure the tape covers the area of the mast when the block is pulled down by the spinnaker! Step 4 and 5 1.6.6. Mainsail halyard Mount the wheel for the mainsail halyard in the top of the mast with a clevis pin. Mainsail halyard Step 1 Take the mainsail halyard and slide it through the mast; starting at the top. Don t forget to go through the mainsail lock. Take a screwdriver and guide the halyard to the bottom of the mast. Make sure the halyard is in the sail track. Step 2 Also go through the mainsail lock!

Step 3. Tie a figure 8 knot at the bottom of the mast and tie the other end of the halyard to the eyelet on the metal halyard locking ring. Do this with a figure 8 knot. Tie everything to the mast. Step 3 Step 3

1.6.7. Fixing the stays Take the big shackle, the forestay, two side stays and plastic washers from the box. Place the forestay in the shackle and make sure the part of the fore stay with the ring is on the bottom. Step 3. Place the two side stays next to both sides of the forestay. Fixing the stays Step 1,2 and 3 Make sure the part of the forestay with the ring is closest to the mast! Step 4. Attach the shackle to the mast hound in the bottom hole. Use plastic washers on both sides. Tighten the shackle firmly and secure it with some thin wire to make sure it does not come off. Put some tape around the thin wire!. Step 4 1.6.8. Jib halyard Take the jib halyard and put it through the eyelet in the top of the forestay. Take both ends through the ring under the eyelet. Jib halyard Step 1 and 2

Step 3. Tie one end of the jib halyard to the top of the jib halyard S-hook. Put the other end through the pre drilled hole in the S-hook and tie a 8 knot. Step 3 1.6.9. Adjustable trapeze units Take all of the parts from the box. Adjustable trapeze units Step 1 Take the trapeze line from the trapeze hook through the trapeze block. Make sure that you put this line through the side of the trapeze block where the distance between the middle of the wheel and the bottom of the trapeze block is biggest. Then go through the white trapeze stopper and tie a knot at the end. Step 2

Step 3. Put the adjustable trapeze line through the clam-cleat and trapeze block in the way shown on the pictures. Mount a shackle on top of the clam cleat. Step 3 Step 4. Repeat this for all 4 adjustable trapeze units. Step 4 1.6.10. Fixing the trapeze wires Take the other shackle, two trapeze wires, 4 plastic washers and 4 adjustable trapeze units (for the race package we just assembled them, but for the standard type we do this in step 3). Put the two trapeze wires in the shackle and attach the shackle to the mast hound in the top hole. Again, use two plastic washers on both sides. Tighten the shackle firmly. Fixing the trapeze wires Step 1 and 2

Step 3. Attach the adjustable trapeze units to the bottom of the trapeze wires. Tighten all the shackles firmly and put tape around them. Step 3 Spinnaker 1.6.11. Cleats Attach the two cunningham cleats on the mast. Attach the spinnaker cleat on the mast. Cleats Step 1 and 2 Cunningham (2x)

1.6.12. Cunningham Put the cunningham line through the double pulleys and the mast base as shown on the picture. Make sure the lines don t cross. In the end you should have two ends on both sides of the mast coming out of the cunningham cleats. Cunningham Step 1 Take the short cunningham line and tie it down to the double pulley. Tie everything to the mast. Step 2

1.7. Rudders

Put your boat on high supports or the trailer, because we are going to put the rudders on the boat. They should also be able to lock down. Then slide your rudders on the rudder pins on the stern. The bent rudder arms should be facing inboard. Measure the rudder rake, taking the tape measure and measuring the distance from the black rudder casting and the center of the eye screw. The basic setting is fully screwed in, so no visible thread. See the trim sheet for tips! To adjust the rudder rake (the angle which the rudders make under the boat) it is possible to screw the eye screw in or out when you take the rudders off the pins. Step 3. If the rudder rake is right, then tighten the nut properly and slide the rudders back onto the pins. Step 4. Install the hardware for the joystick in the middle of the crossbar. Make sure the hardware is still able to turn around, so don t tighten it too firmly! Step 5 Dont put the phillips screws in yet! Step 5. Unscrew the two phillips screws on both ends of the crossbar and place the crossbar over the two rubber rods on the tiller arms. Make sure the hardware for the joystick is on top. Don t put the phillips screws in yet, because we need to align the rudders!

Step 6. Lock the rudders in the down position. Look at the pictures for instructions. It s the same when you re out on the water. To unlock the rudder simply pull the tiller arm upward or pull the tip of the rudder backwards. Step 7 Measure the distance between the port and starboard leading and trailing edges of the rudder blades. The trailing edge should be 2 mm more out than the leading edge. Move the rudders in or out to attain the right measurement.. Step 8. When the rudder alignment is correct, predrill holes into the rubber rods and install the phillips screws into the rubber rod to lock the position. Make sure the length of the rubber rods on both ends are about equal. Step 9 At last you can adjust the sliding bolt to adjust kick up tension. We recommend the setting used in the picture (bolt in forward position). Step 7 Measuring the trailing and leading edge Rod length Step 8 Make sure the rod lenght is about equal on both sides!

1.8. Ropes and halyards 1.8.1. Spinnaker sheet Take two blocks and the spinnaker sheet blocks. Install the two blocks on the front beam and install the spinnaker sheet blocks on the hulls. Connect the two blocks with the short shock cord supplied. Take one end of the spinnaker sheet and put it through the spinnaker sheet block on the hull. Make sure you put it through the right way (the block only works one way). Also do this for the other side. Spinnaker sheet Step 1, 2 and 3 Step 3. Go through the spinnaker sheet block on the front beam. Also do this for the other side. Step 4. Tie a spinnaker tension shock cord to the middle of the spinnaker sheet. Make sure the knot can not move, so tighten it properly! Step 5. Take the other end of the shockcord through the hole in the trampoline and go under the trampoline. Step 4,5 and 6 Tighten the knot properly! Step 6. Take the shockcord through the hole on the right, rear corner of the trampoline and leave it there for a moment. We will attach the tack line to this shockcord later on in the manual. 1.8.2. Spinnaker retrieve block Take a block and the spinnaker tension shock cord and tie the block to the middle of the shock cord. Spinnaker retrieve block Step 1 Go under the foot strap!

Put both ends of the shockcord through the holes on each rear side of the trampoline. Make sure you go under the foot strap! On the starboard side you also have the tack line shock cord running through the hole in the trampoline. Tie the shockcord down to the trapoline lacing lines. Step 2 1.8.3. Tack release line and tack Line Take the tack release line from the box and put both ends through the two holes in the trampoline. Tie a figure 8 knot to the end in the middle of the trampoline (underneath the tramp!). The right end of the tack release line can hang under the trampoline for now Tack release line and tack line Step 1 Take one end of the spinnaker tack line and make a few knots at the end. This will make it easier to pull the tack of the spinnaker forward. Make it look like the one on the picture. Then tie the shock cord which came out of the right, rear corner of the trampoline to this end of the tack line. Step 2

Step 4. Tie a block to the stay adjuster/staymaster with the red trampoline block tie line. And take the tack line through the block. Step 5. Go under the trampoline with the tack line, going through the slot between the trampoline lacing line and the trampoline next to the mast rotation cleat. Step 4 and 5 Step 6. Take the tack release ring and tie the right end of the tack release line to it (the end which was hanging under the trampoline). With the tack line, go through the block under the front beam, then go through the tack release ring, then go through the tack line cleat and then through the block near the middle of the front beam. Step 7. Put the remaining line in the pocket of the trampoline, we will do the rest later when the spinnaker pole is mounted in the rigging section. Step 6 1.8.4. Jib sheet Attach the jib sheet block to the side stay adjuster with a rope shackle. Guide the jib sheet through this block. Step 1

Step 3. Take the thin jib sheet from the box and tie one end to the block on the jib track. Also connect a shackle to a block and put the thin jib sheet through this block. Step 4. Go through the pulley on the jib track with the thin jib sheet. Jib Sheet Step 3 and 4 Step 5. Put the rest of the jib sheet in the bag in the trampoline. We will do the rest when the spinnaker pole is being mounted in the rigging section. Step 5 1.8.5. Mast rotation Take the rotator line from the box and tie one end to the side stay adjuster/ staymaster. Mast rotation

Go under the trampoline with the rotator line, by going through rotation block and then through the slot between the trampoline and the lacing line. Step 2 Step 3. Go through the big hole in the middle of the trampoline and put the rest of the line in the trampoline bag. We will do the rest when the mast is raised in the rigging section. Step 3 1.8.6. Righting line Take the righting line from the box and tie one end to the dolphin striker. Make sure the knot is tight! Righting line Step 1

Take the other end through the hole in the trampoline and tie a figure 8 knot directly above the hole, to prevent the righting line from accidentally sliding through the hole while sailing. Step 3. Put the rest of the line in the trampoline bag. Step 2 and 3 1.8.7. Mainsheet Take the mainsheet and the two mainsheet blocks from the box. Put the mainsheet through the blocks as shown on the pictures. Make sure the lines don not cross each other. Mainsheet Mainsheet

Mainsheet Mainsheet Mainsheet Mainsheet

1.8.8. Mainsail traveler The main sheet and the traveler on the Nacra F20 Carbon are made out of one single rope. Take the loose end of the main sheet and put it through the cleat and the blocks on the traveler cart. Tie either of the twin ends to one of the eyelets on the rear beam. Mainsail traveller Step 1 and 2

Part 2. Rigging The manual now continues with the boat as we left it in Part 1, so if you don t exactly know how everything was supposed to be just check it in Part 1! 2.1. Raising the mast Preparing Step 1 2.1.1. Preparing Take the two bridle wires, the connection rod for the spinaker pole and the fore stay adjuster and mount them together as shown on the picture. Connect the bridle wires to the hulls and attach the two spinaker pole bridle wires as shown in the picture. Don t forget to tape the rings! Step 3. Take the mast and place the mast base on the trampoline, near the mast ball on the front beam. Support the back of the mast, to prevent is from scratching the beam. It is best to place the mast in such a way that the sail track is on the bottom and the front of the mast is up, because this will make it easier to see in which order the stays and trapeze wires should be attached. Check that the stays are connected the right way on the mast hound and the shackles are tightened properly. Step 3 Check that the stays are connected the right way! Doublecheck everything!

2.1.2. Fixing the stays and trapeze wires Attach the bottom of the sidestays to the staymaster. Make sure the staymaster is at its maximum length, that is number 10. Fixing the stays and trapeze wires Step 1 Maximize staymaster lenght Attach the adjustable trapeze unit to the trapeze shockcords. The trapeze wire which is most on front of the mast belongs to the crew and the one that is most on the back of the mast belongs to the helm. The trapeze shockcord which comes out of the two sides of the front beam belongs to the crew and the ones which come from the trampoline belong to the helm. Tie the trapeze shockcord down to the end of the line of the adjustable trapeze unit which goes to the trapeze hook. Step 2 Rear trapeze wire Step 2 Front trapeze wire

2.1.3. Spinnaker halyard Take the spinnaker halyard and go to the mastbase. Take the thin end of the halyard and go through the spinnaker hoist block. Spinnaker halyard Step 1 Go through the gap in the right rake adjuster bars with that same end. Go through the slot at the starboard side of the mast! Step 2 Starboard side! Step 3. Go to the top of the mast and pass the stays on the forward side of the mast. Step 3 In front of all the stays!

Step 4. Take the end of the halyard through the block in the top of the mast from the inside to the outside of the mast. Line end Step 4 Step 5. Take this end down again and tie it to the spinnaker halyard block. With the other end you can tighten the line, cleat it in the spinnaker hoist block and then put the rest of the line in the trampoline bag. Step 5 2.1.4. Raising the mast Raising the mast the first time it is best to be with three people. We will show you how to do it with two people. Make sure the mast is on level ground or if that s not possible ensure the bow is downhill to make it easier to raise the mast. CAUTION: Check for overhead wires and be sure the area behind the boat is clear of people! A mast which comes in contact with electrical power lines can cause serious injury or death. One person takes the top of the mast and the other places the mast base on the mast ball. Make sure the mast is at right angle with the front beam. Not rotating the mast may put excessive load on the mast pin/ball which may cause damage to any of these items or cause the mast to come off when lowering causing potential damage or injury. Raising the mast Step 1 and 2 Check for overhead wires and be sure the area behind the boat is clear of people! CAUTION: Check for overhead wires and be sure the area behind the boat is clear of people! A mast which comes in contact with electrical power lines can cause serious injury or death.

Step 5 Step 6. When the mast is in upright position one person pulls on the trapeze wire to keep the mast up. The other person fits the forestay in the forestay adjuster with a clevis pin. When you do this for the first time, fit the clevis pin in one of the holes. We have to check the mast rake now. Check the tuning guide for tips! Step 6 Step 6 CAUTION: Check for overhead wires and be sure the area behind the boat is clear of people! A mast which comes in contact with electrical power lines can cause serious injury or death.

Step 3. Check that all the stays and trapeze wires are free of obstructions. Also check that the jib halyard is free. The person at the mast base takes a trapeze wire to help the person at the back with raising the mast. It is best to put your foot on the mast base to prevent it from coming off the ball. Step 3 Put your foot on the mast base to prevent the mast from coming off the ball! Step 4. The person at the top of the mast walks forward and lifts the mast at the same time. The person at the mast base, who is holding a trapeze wire, tries to pull the mast up as well. Be sure to hold the mast base on the mast ball with your foot! Step 4 Hold your foot on the mast base! Step 5. The person who is lifting the mast steps on the trampoline while lifting the mast. It is important that the person at the mast base pulls on the trapeze wire to make it easier for the person at the back. If the lifting is too heavy, then put a third person on the trampoline to take the mast. Step 5 CAUTION: Check for overhead wires and be sure the area behind the boat is clear of people! A mast which comes in contact with electrical power lines can cause serious injury or death.

2.1.5. Lowering the mast Lowering the mast the first time it is best to be with three persons. We will tell you how to do it with two people. Make sure the mast is on level ground or if that s not possible make sure the bow is downhill to make it easier to lower the mast. Make sure the staymasters are as long as possible (setting 10). The mast must be rotated to 90 degrees to be able to be lowered. Not rotating the mast may put excessive load on the mast pin/ball which may cause damage to any of these items or cause the mast to come off when lowering causing potential damage or injury. CAUTION: Check for overhead wires and be sure the area behind the boat is clear of people! A mast which comes in contact with electrical power lines can cause serious injury or death. Lowering the mast Step 1,2 and 3 Check for overhead wires and be sure the area behind the boat is clear of people! Step 3. One person stands on the trampoline and pushes the mast forward, while holding the mast at right angle with the front beam. The other person takes out the clevis pin from the forestay adjuster, while holding a trapeze wire to support the person holding the mast. He then places one foot on the mast base to prevent the mast base from coming off the mast ball. Step 4 Put your foot on the mast base! Step 4. The person who is holding the mast walks backwards while lowering the mast. The person with the trapeze wire should pull on the trapeze wire to make lowering the mast easier. Make sure the mast base does not come off the mast ball, by placing your foot on the mast base! Step 5. When the mast is lowered, make sure the mast is properly supported to prevent it from scratching your boat or beams. Step 4 Keep your foot on the mast base! CAUTION: Check for overhead wires and be sure the area behind the boat is clear of people! A mast which comes in contact with electrical power lines can cause serious injury or death.

2.2. Rigging the boat 2.2.1. Spinnaker pole Assembly of the spinnaker pole Step 1 Jib sheet on top of spinnaker pole! CAUTION: Check for overhead wires and be sure the area behind the boat is clear of people! A mast which comes in contact with electrical power lines can cause serious injury or death.

Attach the spinnaker connector rod hanging under the forestay to the connection point near the middle spinnaker bridle wires. Make sure to tape the ring! Step 3. Connect the two spinnaker pole bridle wires on the front end of the spi pole to the hulls with two clevis pins. Don t forget to tape the rings! Also take the spin pole line and tie it to the spinnaker pole in front of the spinnaker shute (look at picture for location). Then go through the rail in the spinnaker shute and tie the line to the bridle tank putting. Make sure there is some tension on the line to prevent the spinnaker pole from twisting to much while sailing. Step 2 Step 4. Snufferback ring

2.2.2. Jib sheet We previously put the end of the jib sheet in the trampoline bag and already tied the other end down to a pulley on the jib track. Take the end from the trampoline bag and put it through the pulley on the spinnaker pole. Jib sheet Step 1 Tie the jib sheet down to the pulley attached to the (on picture) red jib sheet. Step 2 Step 3. Check if your jib sheet system looks the same as on the picture. Step 3

2.2.3. Tack line We previously put the end of the tack line in the trampoline bag. Take this end through the pulley on the end of the spinnaker pole. Be sure to go under the bridle wires. Tack line 2.2.4. Jib traveler. One end of the jib traveler should already be attached to the jib track. Take the other end through the clamcleat on the beginning of the spinnaker pole. Jib traveller 2.2.5. Cunningham Take the two ends of the cunningham (which come out off the cunningham cleats on mast) and place them on either side of the front beam. That is where the blue line goes into the beam. Into beam Into beam Cunningham Step 1

Pull on the blue line that comes out of the front beam and you will find that is tied onto a shockcord. Tie the cunningham line to that shockcord and then untie the blue line. The cunningham line can now go into the front beam while sailing! 2.2.6. Boom Take the boom and connect it to the boom connector on the mast with a phillips screwdriver. Boom 2.2.7. Mast rotation We previously put the one end of the mast rotation line in the trampoline bag and tied down the other end to the staymaster/side stay adjuster. Take the mast rotation line through the block attached to the end of the mast rotation arm and then go back under the trampoline through the same hole in the trampoline. Mast rotation Step 1 and 2

Step 2 Step 3. Go through the mast rotation cleat again and tie it down to the staymaster. Step 3. 2.2.8. Spinnaker halyard The spinnaker halyard has already been put through the pulley in the top of the mast so we have the two ends at the mast base. Take the end which goes through the spinnaker hoist cleat and take it through the pulley in the front of the trampoline. Step 3. Then go through the cleat at the back of the trampoline, which is attached to a shock cord. Make sure you go under the foot strap. Step 4. Take the spinnaker halyard through the hole in the trampoline next to the mast rotation hole. Spinnaker halyard Step 1, 2, 3 and 4 Go under the foot strap!

Step 5. Take the halyard through the spinnaker shute and then go through the snuffer ring. Tie the end down to the spinnaker pole. Tie the other end to the spinnaker pole. Step 5 Step 5 Step 6. Take the spinnaker shute and attach the two shockcords to the trampoline. Step 6

2.3. Fixing the sails 2.3.1. Spinnaker Take the tack of the spinnaker and tie the tack line to the ring as shown on the picture. It is best to fix the spinnaker on the port side of the boat. Spinnaker Step 1 Step 1 Follow the leading edge of the spinnaker, then take the head of the spinnaker and tie the spinnaker halyard (which comes from the top of the mast) down to the ring in the head. Step 2

Step 3. Take the other end of the spinnaker halyard and put it through the two rings in the spinnaker. Then tie it down to the top path as shown on the picture. Step 3 Step 4. Follow the trailing edge of the spinnaker, take the clew of the spinnaker and then tie the spinnaker sheet down to it as shown on the picture. Make sure both ends of the spinnaker sheet run around the forestay and above all the bridle wires. Step 4 2.3.2. Raising the jib Take the jib halyard and make sure the halyard is not tangled or turned. It should be running free to the halyard ring in the top of the mast. Make sure your boat is facing the wind and then connect the jib halyard to the jib. The top of the S-hook should be facing backwards, because the jib will not lock otherwise. Look at the picture! Step 3. Pull on the halyard a bit and close the zipper around it. Make sure the halyard is also inside the zipper. Raising the jib Step 1, 2 and 3 Also put the halyard in the zipper!

Step 4. Hoist the jib and close the zipper at the same time. When you are nearly there look up to the jib halyard ring and hoist the S-hook through the ring and a bit further. Then pull the jib down a bit to lock it in the ring. The S-hook has now locked the jib. Step 4 Step 5. Put the rest of the halyard in the zipper and then close the zipper completely. Step 5 Step 6. The jib cunningham can be adjusted on both sides of the boat by a black rope coming from under the trampoline near the front beam. From there it runs through a cleat, a block at the rear and of the spi pole to an identical cleat on the other side of the boat. From the block at the spi pole a rope runs to a little block at the jib-tack on the spi pole. From there go through the ring on the jib tack and tie the end down to the spi pole as shown on the picture. Step 6

Step 7. Take the pulley with the shackle near the jib track and attach it to the clew plate. Step 7 2.3.3. Lowering the jib Undo the jib sheet and the jib cunningham. Lowering the jib Step 1 Unzip the jib a little and pull on the halyard to raise the jib a bit. Then hold the jib in position with one hand and pull on the other side of the halyard to twist the S-hook. Then pull down the jib. When you do this properly the S- hook will go through the ring again, without locking again. Step 3. After unlocking the jib, pull the jib down and unzip at the same time. Step 2 and 3 Pull the jib up a bit and then twist the S hook with the halyard. Then pull the jib down.

2.3.4. Mainsail battens We are first going to put tension on all the battens, starting at the bottom. Take the two batten tension lines from the sail and put them through the hole on the end of the batten. Mainsail battens Step 1 Then go through the hole on the other side of the sail and tie a knot as shown on the picture. Step 2 Step 3. Pull on the two batten tension lines with the knot in it and just get rid of the wrinkles in the sail. It is not necessary to over tension the battens. Then tie another knot as shown on the picture. Step 4. If you are done with a batten then roll the sail up and go to the next batten until you reach the top of the sail. Step 3 and 4 Don t overtighten, just get rid of the wrinkles!

2.3.5. Raising the mainsail Take the mainsail halyard and fix the shackle to the top of the mainsail. Make sure the knot in the mainsail halyard ring is facing the mast. Raising the mainsail Step 1 The knot should face the mast Step 2 Put the sail in the sail track in the mast and pull on the halyard at the same time. This is best to do with two people: one at the mast who is putting in the sail and one pulling on the halyard. Step 3. When you reach the top of the mast the ring slides over the mainsail lock and you should be able to hear a click. Make sure the mast is facing the same way as your sail. Otherwise turn you mast by hand. Pull on the luff of the sail to make sure the sail is properly locked. You should not be able to pull the sail down. It only stretches. Put the halyard in the trampoline bag. Step 3 Make sure the mast and the sail are facing the same direction while locking!

Step 3 Make sure the mast and the sail are facing the same direction while locking! Step 4. Put the tack of the mainsail in the mast rail. Step 4 2.3.6. Lowering the mainsail Take the halyard out of the trampoline bag and take the cunningham off the sail. Also take the tack out of the mast rail. It is best to be with to people again: one person at the mast and the other behind the trampoline with the halyard. Lowering the mainsail Step 1

The person with the halyard pulls on the halyard to raise the sail a bit and holds the halyard tight. This will put the ring above the locking system. Step 3. The person at the mast then twists the mast at right angle with the sail and pulls the sail down. Twisting the mast like this will unlock the ring. Step 2 and 3 Hoist the main a bit further and then twist the mast to 90 degrees. Then pull the sail down! Step 4. As you are pulling the sail down it is best to roll up the sail at the same time. Step 5. When the sail its totally down and rolled up from the bottom, roll it up again but this time from the top. While you are rolling the sail untie all the battens again. Step 4 and 5

2.3.7. Mainsail cunningham Mainsail cunningham Take the end of the short cunningham line and take it through the pulley on that side of the sail. Then take it through the clamcleat on the bottom of the mast. Pulleys 2.3.8. Mainsail outhaul Take the outhaul line and tie a 8-knot on one end. Take the other end through the hole in the clamcleat on the end of the carbon boom. Then go through the sail and pull the line through the clamcleat. Tie a figure 8-knot on this side of the outhaul line too. Just put a tiny bit of tension on this line. While sailing you should be able to put a fist between the sail and the middle of your boom. Mainsail outhaul

4. Maintenance Rinse ENTIRE boat with fresh water after each use. Be sure to flush all blocks and fittings thoroughly. Check the sails and trampoline for rips, tears, or loose stitching. Repair immediately to avoid further damage. Always keep trampoline lacing tight. Check mast ball for wear- REPLACE IF NECESSARY. Tape all split rings and cotter pins to prevent loss or damage. Check for broken or delaminated battens. Never sail with damaged battens. Rinse sails with fresh water, make sure sails are dry and batten tension is released when storing for more than a day. Always check beam bolts to ensure proper torque. Check hulls for excessive wear on bottoms from beaching and dragging the boat. Check hulls for leaks at all hull fittings by covering suspected areas with soapy water and blowing air (from your lungs) into the drain plug holes. DO NOT USE A VACUUM CLEANER AS THE EXCESSIVE PRESSURE CAN DAMAGE THE HULLS. If the water bubbles, there is a leak. Remove the fitting and/or cover with silicone sealant and replace. If the leak is from fiberglassed area (no fittings) this should be reglassed to insure proper permanent bonding sealing. Masts should be regularly inspected for water tightness and diamond wire wear. Make sure fittings are sealed with silicone. Replace wires that show any signs of wear. Check diamond attachment points, turn buckles and seizing wire. These areas could cause serious mast and sail damage. Periodically check for and replace frayed, worn, or kinked wires, shockcords, and lines. Avoid storing your Nacra for long periods of time with the rigging tensioned to race settings (very tight.) Check all shackles, clevis pins, and fasteners for loosening or wear. Replace as needed. Periodically check the bearings in the traveller car and replace them if necessary. Rinse thoroughly with fresh water to free any stuck bearings. Periodically check dolphin striker strap tension. It should not move more than 2.5 cm. Re-tighten if necessary. Masts should be regularly inspected for water tightness and diamondwire wear. Make sure fittings are sealed with silicone. Replace wires that show any signs of wear. Check diamond wire attachment points, turn buckles and seizing wire. These areas could cause serious mast failure!

5. Warranty For a full explanation of the terms of our warranty please read the warranty document available in the download section of our website at 6. Dealer Support Nacra s dealer network is famous for its service. The dealer can help you with anything you need for your Nacra or Prindle. Please take advantage of the many services that authorized Nacra dealers can provide: New Nacra catamarans fully assembled Nacra, Inter and Prindle catamaran parts and accessories Expert advice on boat rigging, repair and maintenance A direct source for all catamaran accessories Contact for multihull fleets and events Choosing your next boat or getting your parts could not be simpler than through the Nacra dealer network. Give your dealer a call and you will find out that they are there for you. Find more information about Nacra dealers all over the world at

5. Other Nacra products Nacra is almost celebrating its 40th anniversary as the brand started out in 1975 in California USA. Besides being supplier of the current Olympic multihull Nacra has loads more to offer such as: Sailingschool boats, recreational racing boats and other racing boats like the Nacra F16, Nacra F18 Infusion and the Nacra F20 Carbon. Have a look on our website and find out for yourselves that Nacra has more to offer than just Olympic sailing. The Nacra brand offers a lifestyle for many (potential) customers out there in the world. Nacra, Always one step ahead!