WE GET PEOPLE FLYING INSTRUCTION MANUAL

TM WE GET PEOPLE FLYING INSTRUCTION MANUAL 90% pre-built Pre-covered in Goldberg UltraCote transparent blue and white covering Includes sailplane hardware package with adjustable tow hook Superb stability during Hi-Start launches Specifications: Wingspan:..................................... 79" Length:...................................... 45" Wing Area:................................ 680 sq. in Weight (Approx.):......................... 36 48 oz. 2 meters 114 cm 4387 sq cm 1020 1360g

Table of Contents Introduction....................................................................................... 3 Notes & Warnings.................................................................................. 3 Additional Equipment Required......................................................................... 4 Radio Equipment.............................................................................. 4 Field Equipment............................................................................... 4 Optional Field Equipment........................................................................ 5 Tools, Supplies, and Adhesives Required............................................................ 5 Kit Contents....................................................................................... 5 Section 1: Joining the Wing......................................................................... 6 9 Section 2: Mounting the Wing........................................................................ 10 Section 3: Installing the Tail....................................................................... 11 13 Section 4: Hinging the Rudder and Elevator........................................................... 14 16 Section 5: Installing the Radio..................................................................... 17 18 Section 6: Installing the Control Linkages.............................................................. 19 22 Section 7: Control Throw Recommendation.............................................................. 23 Section 8: Installing the Tow Hook..................................................................... 24 Section 9: Installing the Canopy.................................................................... 25 26 Section 10: Balancing the Aspire...................................................................... 27 Section 11: Thermal Soaring....................................................................... 28 29 Section 12: Pre-Flight Checks......................................................................... 30 Section 13: Test Glide............................................................................... 31 Section 14: Hangar 9 G-Force...................................................................... 32 33 Section 15: In-Flight Adjustments for Performance and Conditions............................................. 34 Pitch Attitude................................................................................ 34 Minimum Sink Speed.......................................................................... 34 Maximum Lift/Drag (L/D) Speed.................................................................. 34 Best Penetration Speed......................................................................... 34 Definitions....................................................................................... 35 AMA Safety Code.................................................................................. 36 2

Introduction The Aspire has been designed to build quickly and easily, providing you with great looks and exceptional flying performance. Entering the world of sailplanes is both extremely challenging and rewarding. It s your skill and knowledge of the surrounding atmosphere combined with the design capabilities of your model that will result in your ability to defy the laws of gravity and produce flights of unbelievable distance or duration. Under the proper conditions, it s not unusual for flight times of up to an hour or more to be obtained, limited only by the capacity of the receiver and transmitter batteries or your endurance. Warning: An R/C aircraft is not a toy! If misused, it can cause serious bodily harm and damage to property. Fly only in open areas, preferably AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) approved flying sites, following all instructions included with your radio. Pre-Assembly: We strongly suggest that before you begin assembly of the kit, you read through this Instruction Manual so you can become familiar with the parts and assembly sequence. Please assemble the kit according to the sequence provided in this Instruction Manual. Do not attempt to modify or change the kit design as doing so could adversely affect the flying characteristics. Seek Expert Assistance: If you are new to R/C we suggest you find an experience pilot to check out your aircraft and help you with the first few flights. This will help prevent damage to your model and will speed up the learning process. You can contact local R/C clubs or your hobby shop to obtain the names of experienced R/C pilots who would be willing to help you with your first few flights. Special Note: Due to changes in weather, wrinkling of the covering can occur. This is the nature of the covering film of the model and can be easily eliminated using a heat gun or sealing iron. In Case of Wrinkle: Carefully use a heat gun or sealing iron on the wrinkled area. Then rub the surface with a soft cloth until the surface is smooth again. If you have any questions concerning the construction of the Aspire, please feel free to contact our Service Department at the address below: Horizon Hobby Distributors 4105 Fieldstone Road Champaign, IL 61822 217-355-9511 Visit our web site at www.horizonhobby.com Thank you again for purchasing the Hangar 9 Aspire sailplane. We believe you will have many enjoyable hours of challenging and rewarding flight. 3

Additional Equipment Required Radio Equipment 2 channels (minimum) 2 standard servos You will need at least a two channel radio control system with two servos on an aircraft frequency for use in your Aspire. A standard radio system (4 channels with standard servos) will work fine. The standard size servos will fit into the fuselage of the Aspire. Recommended JR Systems JR F400EX Field Equipment JRPA003 Switch JRPR600 Receiver JRPB3150 Receiver Battery JRPBS507 Servos TM Sailplane Launch System Hi-Start System A Hi-Start launch is the most common method of launching gliders. The Aspire does not include a Hi-Start. We suggest the Hangar 9 G-Force Sailplane Launch System (HAN200 or HAN400), which includes a pre-assembled Hi-Start system. Hi-Start launches will be discussed later in this instruction manual. 4

Optional Field Equipment Weight for balancing your Aspire: You will need to balance your Aspire after you ve completed assembly and have installed the receiver, battery and servos. Use of the stick-on type of weights is recommended and can be obtained at your dealer. Before adding weight to the sailplane, try moving the receiver battery pack to adjust the center of gravity (usually as far forward as possible). Foam Rubber: Also, it s a good idea to use foam rubber (1/4 thick) to wrap your receiver and battery pack to give support and protection in hard landings. Tools, Supplies, and Adhesives Required (Not Included in Kit) Tools & Supplies Medium grit sandpaper Ruler Mixing sticks for epoxy Felt tipped Pen Epoxy brush Pencil Rubbing alcohol Pliers Paper towels Drill Hobby knife Drill bit: 1 /16 Wax paper #64 rubber bands Small round file 90 triangle Adhesives 30-minute epoxy 6-minute epoxy Thin CA-glue Thick CA-glue CA debonder 1 /2 masking tape 5

Kit Contents Note: Photo of product may vary slightly from contents in box. 1. Left wing HAN1427 2. Right wing HAN1427 3. Vertical stabilizer/rudder HAN1428 Main Parts 6 5 4 1 2 3 Other Parts A. #64 rubber bands B. Clevis HAN1432 C. Clevis keeper D. Control horn HAN1432 E. Control horn plate HAN1432 F. Wire snap keeper HAN1432 G. Screws (8mm) H. Nylon adjustable tow hook HAN1433 I. Screws 4-40 x 12mm HAN1433 J. 4-40 blind nuts HAN1433 K. Washers HAN1433 L. Wing hold down dowels M. Plywood canopy supports HAN1431 N. Small rubber band for canopy O. Hardwood wing brace HAN1427 P. 6 pushrod wire HAN1430 Q. 12 pushrod wire HAN1430 R. 16 hardwood pushrod HAN1430 S. Heat shrink tubing HAN1430 A O M H I K E J D C B G L F N P S Q R 6

Section 1: Joining the Wing Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed Right wing panel Left wing panel Hardwood wing joiner (dihedral brace) 30-minute epoxy Rubbing alcohol Paper towels Masking tape Wax paper Ruler Pencil or felt tipped pen Mixing stick/epoxy brush Medium sandpaper Step 1. Locate the two wing panels and the hardwood wing joiner. Using a pencil and ruler, measure and mark the center of the V section of the hardwood wing joiner (dihedral brace). This mark will serve as the centerline when joining the two wing halves. Note that the outer wing panels have already been attached at the correct polyhedral angle on each wing half. Step 3. Check for the correct dihedral angle. Place the wing on a large, flat surface with one wing half resting on the surface. The opposite wing half should be at 3 3 /16 as measured where the outer and inner wing panels meet on the wing half. See picture below. If necessary, sand the wing joiner until this is achieved. Step 2. Trial fit the wing joiner (dihedral brace) into one of the wing halves. It should insert smoothly up to the centerline marked in Step 1. Now slide the other wing half onto the wing joiner until the wing halves meet. If the fit is overly tight, it may be necessary to lightly sand the wing joiner so the wing halves fit together properly. Note: Before epoxying the wing halves together, it s a good idea to make a brace that can be placed under the wing to hold it at the 3 3 /16 dihedral angle while the epoxy cures. It s also a good idea to place wax paper under the wing center so the epoxy does not adhere to the work surface. Step 4. Separate the wing halves and remove the wing joiner. If you re satisfied with the fit of the wing halves, you can prepare to epoxy the two halves together. Step 5. Mix up approximately 1 ounce of 30-minute epoxy. It s helpful to place wax paper under the wing to prevent epoxy from dripping onto your workbench. 7

Section 1: Joining the Wing Step 6. Place one wing half on a flat surface (remember the wax paper under the wing). Use an epoxy brush to smear a generous amount of epoxy into the wing joiner cavity in the wing half. CONTINUED Note: You will need to mix up an additional ounce or so of epoxy to complete the wing joining process. Step 8. Apply a generous amount of epoxy into the wing joiner cavity of the other wing half. Step 7. Coat one half of the wing joiner with epoxy on both sides, up to the line drawn in Step 1. Note the orientation of the wing joiner the V points to the top of the wing, or faces up when the wing half is placed on the workbench topside up. Install the epoxy-coated half of the wing joiner into the wing joiner cavity of the wing panel, up to the centerline mark, making sure the V of the hardwood wing joiner is orientated correctly (see below). Any spilled epoxy can be cleaned up with rubbing alcohol and paper towels. Allow the epoxy to cure before joining the other wing half. Step 9. Next, apply epoxy to all sides of the exposed area of the hardwood wing joiner and uniformly coat both wing roots with epoxy. 8

Section 1: Joining the Wing Step 10. Carefully slide the two wing halves together and firmly press them together, allowing the excess epoxy to run out. Also, check to make sure the wing halves align properly. Wipe any excess epoxy away with rubbing alcohol and paper towels. CONTINUED Step 11. Masking tape can be applied to hold the wing halves together while the epoxy cures. Place one wing half on a flat surface and, using the template you made, prop up the other wing half at the proper 3 3 /16 dihedral from the flat surface. Use a magazine or other material to weight the one wing half flat against the workbench, making sure not to use something that will crush the wing pannel. Check to make sure the dihedral is correct. Apply more masking tape to make sure the wing halves stay aligned and at the proper dihedral while the epoxy cures. Wipe away any excess epoxy with rubbing alcohol and a paper towel. Step 12. Allow the epoxy to cure completely before removing the masking tape. Note: If there are any gaps in the wing center section, they can be filled with epoxy. 9

Section 2: Mounting the Wing Parts Needed Complete wing assembly Wing dowel rods (2) Fuselage Step 1. Locate the four wing dowel holes in the fuselage. Step 2. Locate the two wood dowels and trial fit them into the fuselage. Tools and Adhesives Needed Hobby knife Rubbing alcohol 6-minute epoxy Felt tip pen or pencil Paper towels 90 degree triangle Masking tape Measuring device ( 36 ruler or ) tape measure Step 5. Once the wing dowels are dry, trial fit the wing to the fuselage by inserting the leading edge of the wing flush against the former in front of the forward dowel and securing the wing to the fuselage with two rubber bands. Position the trailing edge of the wing in its relative position on the fuselage. It s helpful to mark the centerline of the fuselage on either side of the wing opening in the fuselage and line up the wing center in reference to the marks you made. Step 3. Position the dowels in the fuselage so an equal amount projects from each side of the fuselage (approximately 5 /8 ). Step 4. Mix a small amount of 6-minute epoxy and apply it to the dowels at a position inside the fuselage. By moving the dowels back and forth slightly, the epoxy will be worked into the holes in the fuselage, thus bonding the dowels securely to the fuselage. Allow the epoxy to cure completely. 10

Section 3: Installing the Tail Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed Fuselage Horizontal stabilizer with elevator Vertical stabilizer with rudder Hobby knife Ruler Felt tipped pen Masking tape Pencil 30-minute epoxy Rubbing alcohol Paper towels Epoxy brush Mixing stick Sanding stick (medium) 90-degree triangle Step 1. On the rear of the fuselage, a slot is cut for the vertical stabilizer and a platform is provided for mounting the horizontal stabilizer. You will need to also locate the pushrod exit for the rudder, which is on the top left of the slot for the vertical stabilizer. The covering may cover this opening. If so, use a sharp hobby knife to cut away the covering over the pushrod exit. Step 3. Holding the horizontal stabilizer in place, check to see that the slots are aligned. Step 4. With the fuselage, wing and horizontal stabilizer resting on a flat surface, align the horizontal stabilizer by measuring from fixed points on the wing to the outside of the trailing edge tip of the horizontal stabilizer as shown in the illustration. Be sure that the leading edge of the horizontal stabilizer stays aligned with the slot in the fuselage top. Step 2. We will mount the horizontal stabilizer first. Remove the elevator; it will be reattached when you hinge the control surfaces later. Note that the slot in the fuselage runs from the top of the fuselage back into the balsa platform that doesn t have any covering applied. Trial fit the horizontal stabilizer to the platform as shown, aligning the slot in the leading edge of the horizontal stabilizer to that in the fuselage top/platform as shown below. Step 5. Use a felt tipped pen or pencil to mark the bottom of the horizontal stabilizer where it comes into contact with the sides of the fuselage. The mark will make a slight indentation in the covering. 11

Section 3: Installing the Tail Step 6. Remove the horizontal stabilizer and use a sharp hobby knife to carefully cut away the covering approximately 1/16 inside the line marked on the horizontal stabilizer so that bare wood will show. Caution: Do not cut into the balsa wood, as this will weaken the structure. CONTINUED Step 8. When you re satisfied with the alignment, use a pencil to mark the junction of the vertical stabilizer and fuselage top. The mark should leave a slight indentation in the covering. Remove the vertical stabilizer and horizontal stabilizer from the fuselage. Use a sharp hobby knife to cut away the covering 1 /16 inside the mark you made. This allows the epoxy to adhere better to the vertical stabilizer and the fuselage/horizontal stabilizer. Remember not to cut into the balsa wood, as this will weaken the structure. Step 7. Use masking tape to temporarily attach the horizontal stabilizer to the fuselage, making sure it is aligned with the slots in the fuselage and no bare wood shows on the bottom. Carefully slide the vertical stabilizer (with rudder still attached) into position in the fuselage and horizontal stabilizer. If the fit is tight, use a sanding stick to remove some of the balsa, but be careful not to overdo it. Align the vertical stabilizer so the rudder (still attached) has a slight gap between it and the horizontal stabilizer, as shown below. Step 9. Mix up approximately 1 ounce of 30-minute epoxy and apply it to the area of the horizontal stabilizer that contacts the fuselage. Make sure the slot of the horizontal stabilizer aligns with the slot cut into the fuselage top and horizontal stabilizer mount area of the fuselage. Check the bottom of the horizontal stabilizer to see that it is aligned to the fuselage and no bare wood is showing. 12

Section 3: Installing the Tail Step 10. With the fuselage resting on a flat surface and the horizontal stabilizer attached to the fuselage, adjust the stabilizer until you have an equal distance on both the right and left sides of the stabilizer to the wing. When you are satisfied they are even, tape the horizontal stabilizer securely in place and allow the epoxy to cure. Check once more to make sure the slots of the horizontal stabilizer and fuselage are aligned. This is to make sure that when the vertical stabilizer/rudder is inserted, it will be properly aligned to the centerline of the fuselage. Use rubbing alcohol and a paper towel to remove any excess epoxy. CONTINUED Note: Use masking tape to hold in place until epoxy is cured. Step 11. Mix up approximately 1 ounce of 30-minute epoxy and apply it to the bare wood areas of the vertical stabilizer. Carefully insert the vertical stabilizer into the slot provided in the fuselage/horizontal stabilizer. Wipe away any excess epoxy with rubbing alcohol and a paper towel. Check the alignment so the rudder has just a slight gap between it and the horizontal stabilizer (see below). A 90-degree triangle can be used to check the alignment of the vertical stabilizer to the horizontal stabilizer. Use masking tape to hold it in position until the epoxy cures. 13

Section 4: Hinging the Rudder and Elevator Parts Needed Fuselage Horizontal stabilizer with elevator attached Vertical stabilizer with rudder attached Note: The control surfaces, elevator and rudder are pre-hinged with the hinges installed, but the hinges are not glued in place. It s very important that you properly adhere the hinges in place per the steps that follow using high-quality thin CA glue. Step 1. Locate the horizontal stabilizer and elevator that you attached to the fuselage. The hinges are not glued in place, so you will have to use thin CA glue to attach them permanently. A typical hinge is shown below. Note that the construction allows you to determine the center of the hinge easily. There is also a slot that enhances the wicking action when CA is applied. Tools and Adhesives Needed Thin CA glue Drill CA debonder Drill bit: 1 /16 Paper towels Medium Phillips Felt tipped pen screwdriver or pencil Step 3. With the elevator re-installed, check the alignment to make sure it s centered on the horizontal stabilizer. Deflect the elevator and completely saturate each hinge with thin CA glue. The elevator s front surface should lightly contact the horizontal stabilizer during this procedure. Ideally, when the hinges are glued in place, a 1 /32 gap or less will be maintained throughout the length of the elevator. The hinges are constructed of a special material that allows the CA to wick or penetrate and distribute throughout each of the hinges, securely bonding them to the wood structure. Step 2. Remove the elevator from the horizontal stabilizer. Check each hinge to make sure it s centered, then re-install the elevator onto the horizontal stabilizer. Step 4. Turn the fuselage over and deflect the elevator in the opposite direction and from the opposite side. Apply thin CA glue to each hinge, making sure the CA penetrates into both the elevator and horizontal stabilizer. 14

Section 4: Hinging the Rudder and Elevator Step 5. Use CA remover/debonder and a paper towel to remove excess CA from the elevator and horizontal stabilizer. CONTINUED Step 8. You will next attach the rudder and elevator control horns. Locate the nylon control horns (2), backplates (2) and the four 8mm long control horn screws. Step 6. After the elevator has been attached to the horizontal stabilizer, firmly grasp the fuselage and the elevator to check that the hinges are securely glued and cannot be pulled out. Do this by applying medium pressure, trying to separate the elevator from the horizontal stabilizer. Use caution that you do not crush the structure. Step 9. Install the elevator control horn first. It will be located on the elevator, centered to the opening in the aft of the fuselage. Make sure it s centered to the opening, as the elevator clevis will move in and out of that opening. Also, make sure the control horn holes for the pushrod wire are positioned over the hinge line of the elevator/horizontal stabilizer. Note: Work the elevator up and down several times to work in the hinges and check for proper movement. Step 7. Repeat this process for hinging the rudder to the vertical stabilizer. Remember to flex the rudder back and forth several times to work in the hinge. Step 10. When you re satisfied with the location of the control horn, mark the position of the screw locations with a felt tipped pen or pencil. 15

Section 4: Hinging the Rudder and Elevator CONTINUED Step 11. Remove the horn and using a 1 /16 drill bit, drill the holes for the elevator control horn screws in the elevator. Step 14. Attach the elevator and rudder control horns using the four 8mm screws and a medium Phillips screwdriver. Use care not to slip and damage the covering. Step 12. The rudder control horn will be centered 3 /8 up from the bottom of the rudder, positioned so the pushrod wire holes on the horn line up over the hinge line of the rudder/ vertical stabilizer. When you re satisfied with the position, mark the screw hole locations on the rudder using a felt tipped pen or pencil. Step 13. Remove the control horn and drill the screw hole locations with a 1/16 drill bit. 16

Section 5: Installing The Radio Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed 2 to 4-channel radio system with 2 standard servos and hardware (not included) Radio packing foam (not included) Thick CA glue CA debonder Paper towel Drill Drill bit: 1 /16 Small Phillips screwdriver Hobby knife with #11 blade Pencil or felt tipped pen Velcro Note: Velcro tape can also be used for mounting the receiver and battery pack. Step 4. Drill the 8 mounting holes with a 1 /16 drill bit. Screw the servos in place using the 8 screws provided with the servos. Step 1. Install the grommets and eyelets in the two servos per the instructions included with the radio. Step 2. Locate the two plywood servo rails in the fuselage. Note: The rails have not been glued in place yet. Move the rails to the approximate opening for your servos. Trial fit the two servos on the rails. Try to place each servo close to the sides of the fuselage, as shown below. Note: It s a good idea to remove the two servo arms at this time to make it easier to fit the servos in place. Step 5. Remove the servo horns from the servos. Only one arm of a servo horn will be used, the other three will be trimmed off so the horn doesn t bind with the side of the fuselage. Please refer to the photo below before trimming the horn. The elevator servo is on the left side as you look down from the front of the fuselage; the rudder servo is on the right side. Trim off the excess arms using a sharp hobby knife. Note: Position the two servos so there is ample room between the servo horns. Remember you can make adjustments to the servo rails to make it easier to fit the servos in place. It is also important to orientate the servo output shaft as shown. Step 3. Once you are satisfied with the servo s location, use a pencil or felt tipped pen to mark where the mounting holes of the two servos are located on the servo rails. Also mark the position of the two servo rails. Remove the two servos and use thick CA to glue the servo rails in place. 17

Section 5: Installing The Radio Step 6. Attach the appropriate servo leads to the receiver. Install the receiver just in front of the servos. (Refer to photo below). CONTINUED Step 9. Before attaching the battery pack to the fuselage with servo tape, be sure to balance the aircraft first. Balance can be adjusted by moving the battery back and forth in the fuselage nose to achieve balance. Always try this first before adding any weight to the aircraft. See Section 10, Balancing the Aspire, for more information Step 7. The antenna lead will be run from the bottom of the fuselage area out to the opening in the fuselage tail. Step 8. Use radio packing foam (available at your local hobby shop) to hold the receiver and the battery in place in the fuselage. This also provides some shock support during landings. Step 10. A switch can be installed in the side of the fuselage under the wing. Step 11. With the servos hooked into the receiver and the battery connected, turn on your transmitter. The servos will center. Make sure the trims on your transmitter are centered. Turn off the receiver and then turn off your transmitter. The servos are now in their electrical center position. The servo horns can now be installed on the servos as shown below. 18

Section 6: Installing the Control Linkages Parts Needed Fuselage 6 pushrod wire, no threads (2) 12 pushrod wire, threaded on one end (2) Wood pushrod (2) Heat shrink tubing (4) Clevis (2) Clevis lock (used to keep clevis closed) (2) Nylon wire keepers (2) Step 1. Locate the parts used to make up the control linkages for rudder and elevator. This includes two 6 pushrod wires, two 12 pushrod wires, two wood pushrods, and four sections of heat shrink tubing. Tools and Adhesives Needed Felt tipped pen or pencil Ruler 6-minute epoxy Drill Paper towels Drill bit: 1 /16 Hobby knife Rubbing alcohol Heat gun Masking tape Pliers (standard or needle nose) Step 3. Using either a felt tipped pen or pencil, mark 1 from each end of the wood pushrods as shown below. Step 2. If there is covering over the rudder pushrod exit, which is located on the top of the fuselage near the leading edge of the vertical fin, carefully cut it away using a hobby knife. Step 4. Drill a 1 /16 hole through the wood pushrods at each marked end. 19

Section 6: Installing the Control Linkages Step 5. To determine the approximate length of a pushrod, temporarily tape (using masking tape) one of the 12 pushrod wires to one end of a wood pushrod, half the distance of the wire (unthreaded end), onto the wood pushrod. Thread a clevis approximately 10 turns onto the threaded end of the rod. Repeat this process with one of the 6 unthreaded rods, however it will not have a clevis attached. Make sure the metal rods are clear of the tape near the holes drilled in Step 4. CONTINUED Step 8. Mark the rods where the bends will be made in reference to the marks made on the wooden pushrod (the 1 mark you made in Step 3). Step 9. Disassemble the pushrod and remove the clevis and tape. Step 6. Position the temporarily assembled pushrod along the outside of the fuselage, lining it up with the control horn on the rudder and the servo arm of the rudder servo. Do the same with the elevator pushrod. Remember the elevator pushrod will be inserted through the fuselage and exit out the opening at the aft end. Step 10. Use a needle nose pliers or standard pliers to make a 90-degree bend at the mark you made on each rod. Trim off any excess rod after the bend so it is 1 /8 to 3 /16 long. The short portion of the rod that you cut will fit into the holes of the wooden pushrod without the end extending out of the hole on the other side. Repeat the process for the 6 unthreaded rod. Make up the second pushrod following the same procedure. Step 7. If necessary, adjust the rods on the wooden pushrod to allow for a 90-degree bend to be made in the non-threaded portion of each rod that will be attached to a wooden pushrod. 20

Section 6: Installing the Control Linkages Step 11. Trial fit the 12 long threaded rod to the wooden pushrod. When you re satisfied with the fit, apply 6-minute epoxy to the hole and where the wire meets the wooden pushrod and insert the rod. CONTINUED Step 15. Insert the rudder pushrod assembly (without the clevis) into the fuselage so the threaded 12 end exits the rudder pushrod hole near the vertical stabilizer. Step 12. Before the epoxy is cured, slide a piece of heat shrink tubing over the wooden pushrod and threaded 12 rod. Use a heat gun to shrink the tubing in place. Step 16. Place one clevis lock (the small piece of tubing used to lock the clevis closed) on the threaded end of the rod and then screw on a clevis 10 complete turns. Fasten the clevis to the rudder control horn in the second hole from the top (or base of control horn). Note: Use the small piece of tubing over the clevis as extra insurance to prevent the clevis from accidentally coming open. Step 13. Repeat the process to attach the 6 unthreaded rod to the wooden pushrod. Step 14. Repeat the above process to make up the rudder pushrod. Allow the epoxy to cure completely before continuing to the next step. 21

Section 6: Installing the Control Linkages Step 17. Center the rudder servo, making sure the servo arm is 90-degrees to the control rod when it s attached. Use a felt tipped pen and place a mark on the unthreaded end of the 6 rod where it passes over the servo control arm. CONTINUED Step 20. Insert the elevator pushrod into the fuselage threaded end first. The rod will exit the opening at the rear of the fuselage. Place a clevis lock (small round piece of tubing) onto the rod. Screw on the clevis at least 10 turns. Connect the clevis to the elevator control horn on the second hole from the bottom (use base of control horn as a reference). Use the clevis lock to prevent accidental opening of the clevis. Step 18. Using needle-nose or standard pliers, make a 90- degree bend at the marked location on the rod (Note: You bend the wire up). You bend the wire up because the wire will be inserted into the bottom of the servo arm so the wire keeper can be inserted over the end of the wire (see Step 20 photo). Cut off the excess rod (leave about 3 /16 of rod to insert into servo arm and also engage wire keeper). Step 19. Insert the bend into the servo arm s innermost hole. Use the nylon wire keeper to hold the rod in place on the servo arm. Be sure it snaps in place. Step 21. You will build the elevator pushrod using the same method as you used to build the rudder pushrod. Center the elevator servo, making sure the servo arm is 90-degrees to the control rod. Use a felt tipped pen to place a mark on the pushrod wire where it passes the elevator servo arm (innermost hole on the servo arm). Step 22. Use a needle-nose or standard pliers to make a 90-degree bend at the marked location on the rod. Remember to bend the rod up. Cut off the excess rod leaving about 3 /16 remaining to engage the servo arm and wire keeper. Step 23. Insert the bend into the servo arm s innermost hole. Use the nylon wire keeper to hold the rod in place on the servo arm. Make sure it clicks into place. 22

Section 7: Control Throw Recommendations The control throws listed below are a good place to start. After you re become more comfortable with the flight performance of the Aspire, you can adjust the control throws to meet your style of flying. Elevator: 3 /8 UP: 3 /8 Down Rudder: 3 /8 Right: 3 /8 Left Note: The control throw is measured at the point of the control surface farthest from the hinge line. You can change the control linkage attachment points in or out on the control horns to change the amount of throw on each surface. 23

Section 8: Installing the Tow Hook Parts Needed Fuselage 4-40x12mm bolts 4-40 blind nuts Washers Tow hook Step 1. Locate the bag containing the tow hook and hardware. The tow hook will be mounted on the fuselage bottom with three screws, three washers and three blind nuts. Tools and Adhesives Needed Phillips screwdriver Hobby knife Step 3. Mount the tow hook to the fuselage using the hardware provided. Note: The hook opening faces the rear of the fuselage. Insert a washer on one of the bolts, thread the bolt into one of the slots on the tow hook. Insert a blind nut inside the fuselage and tighten the bolt to the blind nut. For the time being, mount the tow hook so the bolts are centered in the slots. Step 2. On the bottom of the fuselage, locate the three holes where the tow hook will be mounted. If the covering has not been removed from the holes, use a sharp hobby knife to cut the covering from the holes. Step 4. Tighten the bolts sufficiently, but be carefully not to crush the wood inside the fuselage. Step 5. In general, a forward hook location will provide for the safest and most stable launch and should be used during the first test flights. Later a more rearward location will provide greater launch altitude, however this can cause veering tendencies during launch. 24

Section 9: Installing The Canopy Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed Fuselage Canopy Small rubber band (1) Plywood canopy braces (2) 6-minute epoxy Epoxy brush Rubbing alcohol Paper towels Medium sandpaper Scissors Pencil Masking tape Step 1. Locate the plywood canopy pieces and the canopy Step 4. The forward plywood brace is located 1 /2 from the small end of the canopy. Step 2. Look at the canopy and note the scribe markings on it. This is your guide to cutting out the canopy. Carefully cut out the canopy using sharp scissors. Be sure to cut along the outside of the scribe markings as carefully as possible. Step 5. The larger plywood brace, used to attach the rubber band, is located 6 1 /2 from the front end (small end) of the canopy and up 1 /4 on either side of the canopy. Step 3. Trial fit the canopy on the front of the fuselage. The sides of the canopy should extend onto the fuselage sides and cover the opening. There are two pieces of plywood that must be epoxied to the canopy. The larger piece holds the canopy on the fuselage using the small rubber band provided. 25

Section 9: Installing The Canopy Step 6. Mark the location of each piece using a pencil. Use some sandpaper (medium or fine) to roughen up the inner surface of the canopy where you marked the location of the plywood supports. This will help the epoxy to adhere to the canopy material. Mix up 1 oz of 6-minute epoxy and install each brace. Use masking tape to hold it in position until the epoxy cures. CONTINUED Step 7. After the epoxy has cured completely, you can loop the small rubber band around the plywood tab on the canopy and the former in the fuselage. This will securely hold the canopy in place. 26

Section 10: Balancing the Aspire Parts Needed Assembled Aspire kit Step 1. Balancing your Aspire glider is an important step that must not be forgotten. The Center of Gravity (CG) of your Aspire glider should be 3 1 /2 3 3 /4 behind the leading edge of the wing. You will likely need to shift the receiver battery fully forward to balance the model and add weight to the nose. Try shifting the position of the battery location in an attempt to balance the model, or add weight to the fuselage nose/tail as applicable. Tools and Adhesives Needed Masking tape Pencil or felt tipped pen Lead stick-on weights (optional) Step 4. Using one finger under the wing on each mark, check the balance of the model. It should remain level when raised at the balanced points. Shift the battery location or add weight until the plane remains level. Step 2. To properly balance the model, it should be fully assembled with the radio and receiver battery installed and ready to fly. Place a strip of masking tape on either side of the wing s lower surface, next to the fuselage. Step 3. Mark the location of the CG on the bottom of the wing on either side of the fuselage. 27

Section 11: Thermal Soaring A key component to soaring is the air mass the glider flies in. Also, there is an energy source producing lift, either a warm air thermal (thermal lift) or the wind rising as it meets an obstacle such as a hill or a line of mountains (ridge lift). We will limit our discussion to describing thermal soaring. We use a Hi-Start to launch our sailplane to altitude. After the launch, the sailplane will eventually return to earth as there is nothing to oppose gravity (sailplane has no motor). How, then, does the sailplane stay aloft for long periods of time and travel long distances? Some force has to provide sufficient lift to overcome gravity. thermal. A shift in the wind (in a light breeze) probably indicates airflow into a thermal. And one can watch for the graceful soaring of birds, such as hawks and eagles to locate the presence of thermals. Sometimes the wind will cause the thermal to bend or break causing a warm air bubble that slowly travels downwind as it rises. Thermals can vary in strength, rising at speeds of a few hundred to over a thousand feet per minute. Thermal Forms (Column) One such force is the thermal. The thermal is simply a column of rising warm air. Warm air is lighter (less dense) than cooler air and thus rises. The term differential heating is used to describe the generation of thermals. The principle of warm versus cool air is used by balloonists to launch and fly their hot air balloons. They create and trap warm air inside the balloon envelope, and the warm air displaces the cool air, causing the balloon to inflate and rise until air begins to cool inside the envelope. The balloonist simply uses a propane heater to warm the air again and the balloon rises again or maintains its altitude. Nature generates thermals by the sun heating darker ground or objects more that lighter colored surfaces. The dark object absorbs the sun s heat, becoming warm and thus warming the air above it. For a thermal to be formed the sun (or a heat source, such as a hot metal roof, factory, etc.,) heats the ground or surrounding air in one location faster or warmer than the surrounding air. The warm ground warms the air above it and causes the air to begin to rise. Rising warm air can take on the form of a column or a funnel. Usually the part of the thermal near the ground is small and expands outward as it rises in altitude. Thermal Forms (Bubble) Since the warming of air is usually a much smaller area than the total area, the thermal updraft will be faster than the cooler downdraft motion of air. This cooler downdraft of air is referred to as sink and causes glider flights to be of a much shorter duration as the lift generated by the wing is overcome by the downward motion of the air. To stay aloft one s task is to move from one thermal to another, utilizing the lift created by rising warm air. In level flight, a glider continuously descends in relation to the surrounding air. The only way to sustain flight in a glider beyond the sink time in still air (without a motor) is to fly in an air mass that is rising at a rate greater than the sink rate of the glider. Thermals usually cannot be seen (an exception is a dust devil, a small thermal that has picked up dust, making it visible). One can sometimes feel the presence of a thermal. A breath of air in an otherwise calm spot indicates the presence of a 28

Section 11: Thermal Soaring As you are flying your Aspire, watch it carefully. If you were in a full size glider you would be able to feel the bump of entering a thermal; now you must depend on signs the glider gives as it approaches or enters a thermal. When the Aspire flies near a thermal that is rising, the wings and tail will rock and try to rise, causing the aircraft to twitch slightly. Sometimes the nearness of a thermal will cause the glider to turn away without any control input from the pilot. CONTINUED Once in the thermal you will need to try to stay in the center of the lift. Slow down by increasing the up elevator trim until the sailplane is just above a stall (minimum sink speed). Make easy banking turns to find the area of highest lift (thermal core). When you have found the core of lift, tighten the turns to stay within the core of highest lift. Flying in the Core of a Thermal There are several ways of entering a thermal. One is to continue the thermal induced turn for 270 degrees. If the thermal is on your left, turn right for 270 degrees and enter at a right angle to the original flight path. 270 Turn Into a Thermal Thermal As you gain experience, you will find it easier to locate thermals and track their progress. The second method is to make a wide 180-degree turn back into the thermal. 180 Turn Into a Thermal 29

Section 12: Pre-Flight Checks Step 1. Check that all control functions move in the correct direction. If not, use the respective reversing switch to correct the direction. Elevator Elevator Rudder Rudder Note: Mode II transmitter shown in diagrams Step 2. Check that each clevis is securely snapped into position. Be sure to use the clevis locking devices (small pieces of tubing slipped over the clevis to hold the clevis closed and prevent accidental opening in flight). Step 3. Check that all servo horn screws are tight. Step 4. Charge the transmitter and receiver batteries per the instructions included with the radio system. Step 5. Range check your radio system per the manufacturer s instructions. 30

Section 13: Test Glide We strongly recommend that before you launch your new glider using the Hi-Start, or off a slope, you first perform a test glide. Pick a spot that is flat, has soft, tall grass, and is free from obstructions. You want to first check out the glider s performance, but also check our your performance as a pilot. Hint: A good, calm period during the day is very early in the morning or at dusk, when the wind is calm. You want to be able to concentrate on what the model is doing and have time to think about what you re doing. We will assume you have an assistant during the following steps. If you are a newcomer to R/C flying, it s best that you have an experienced pilot help you. Step 1. Range check your radio system and check the control throws. Make sure the control surfaces move in the proper direction. Step 2. Have the assistant hold the glider under the wing near the CG and run forward until they can sense the wing developing lift. Don t release the glider yet. Look to see if the glider wants to lift, if not, add a bit of up elevator trim, and try again. Repeat this process until the assistant reports the glider feels light as they run forward. Step 3. This step may take some practice on the part of your assistant. What you want them to do now is run forward, but a bit faster, with the nose of the glider pointed at the horizon, not nose down or nose up...with the wings level...then throw the glider forward in a line straight toward the horizon. Step 4. When the assistant releases the glider, watch it carefully. A properly trimmed glider will fly straight forward, gliding to a smooth landing. If the glider pitches nose down, add up trim. If the glider pitches nose up sharply and stalls, add down trim. Step 5. Turns to the left or right after launch can be adjusted through use of right or left rudder trim. Important: Make any trim adjustments in small increments. Step 6. If you have to make large trim adjustments on your transmitter, you may have other problems. Make sure the wing is aligned and mounted properly on the fuselage. When you have the glider trimmed properly in a hands-off manner, return you transmitter trim switches to their neutral position, then make the appropriate mechanical linkage corrections to return the control surfaces to their test glide positions. Step 7. After you have made the necessary corrections, test glide the model again to make sure it s trimmed properly with the transmitter trims in neutral. Step 8. You are now ready to try the Hi-Start launch. 31

Section 14: Hangar 9 G-Force Sailplane Launch System TM Preparation for Launch Depending upon the layout of your flying field, you will need to locate the furthest point upwind as possible. As you determine your anchoring point, keep in mind that your SLS will unwind to either 200 or 400 feet and will stretch an additional 150 or 300 feet, depending on which version you have purchased. Once you ve found a suitable anchoring location, find an area of ground that s reasonably firm. Place the metal ring that s attached to the rubber tubing around the 9 steel stake. At a 45 degree angle away from the launch area, drive the stake into the ground. (Refer to diagram below.) WIND 45 Pull hard on the tubing at the base of the stake to be certain it s secure. Once the stake is secure, unwind the rest of the tubing and nylon line downwind toward the launch area. The hand reel will conveniently lay out the SLS without any tangles or knots. Now that the SLS in completely unwound, you re ready to launch your sailplane. Refer to Table 2 below for proper stretch distances for your particular SLS and sailplane class. Hangar 9 offers a Sailplane Launching System (SLS) called the Hangar 9 G-Force. For your convenience, the SLS is completely assembled. The components that make up this product are of the highest quality and reliability. Used properly, this unit will offer you many seasons of successful launches. Please read the following instructions to maximize the performance and life of your Sailplane Launching System. Launch Area Your local AMA sanctioned flying field is the best location for flying. However, if you do not have access to such a field, many other open areas will work. Refer to Table 1 below for the minimum launch area required for your particular SLS. To avoid possible damage to your SLS and sailplane, be sure to choose an area that is clear from brush, trees and other obstacles. Table 1 SLS Model Sailplane Class Minimum Launch Area SLS 200 2-METER 72 in 350 ft SLS 400 2-METER 72 in 700 ft SLS 200 UNLIMITED 99 in, + 350 ft SLS 400 UNLIMITED 99 in, + 700 ft Note: Tubing can be stretched a maximum of 300% of its original length. G-FORCE SLS 200 2-METER SLS 400 2-METER SLS 200 UNLIMITED SLS 400 UNLIMITED Table 2 Maximum Stretch Length 150 ft. or 50 paces 300 ft. or 100 paces 150 ft. or 50 paces 300 ft. or 100 paces Once you ve determined the proper stretch length for your SLS, walk the distance with the hand reel and sailplane. At the given point of launch, leave the hand reel as a marker. Its bright orange color makes it easy to locate and also makes it unnecessary to recount the stretch length for each launch. Note: When stretching out your SLS, stretch it out by hand, not while still attached to the sailplane tow hook. Now that you have stretched the SLS to its appropriate length, place the ring attached to the parachute over the tow hook. With a firm grasp on the sailplane, angle the nose up at a 45 degree angle into the wind. Making sure that the transmitter and receiver battery are on, toss the sailplane into the wind. The SLS will have enough power to pull it right out of your hand! During the launch it may be necessary to track the sailplane straight using the rudder. For your first launches elevator input should not be necessary and is not recommended. Giving too much up elevator input can result in oscillations in the sailplane, which can overstrain the wings. 32

Section 14: Hangar 9 G-Force Note: If you have any problems, giving full down elevator will release the sailplane. Once it reaches its maximum launch altitude the sailplane may release by itself. If not, a quick tap of down elevator will release it. These stretch lengths are based on normal wind conditions of about 5 mph. It may be necessary to increase or decrease the stretch length depending upon the amount of wind. For example, if the wind is blowing 10 15 mph, it will be necessary to reduce the stretch length slightly. Plan accordingly. Tow Hook Locations If your sailplane does not show a location for a tow hook, placing the hook 1/2 ahead of the center of gravity is a good start. In general, a forward hook location will provide for the safest and most stable launch. For more experienced pilots a rearward location will provide greater launch altitude, however this can cause veering tendencies. CONTINUED Warnings Make sure the stake is securely anchored. Check throughout the day to make sure it has not loosened. Do not over-stretch the tubing. Doing so will permanently damage it to the point of losing its elasticity. As a general rule, the tubing can be stretched to 300% of its original length. Make periodic checks of all knots. If the tubing or nylon line becomes frayed, cut that amount off and retie using the knots shown in the diagram below. During the launch make sure there is no one between you and the SLS stake. Do not put the tow hook behind the C.G. of your sailplane. Doing so will result in a very control sensitive launch, which could cause a crash. Do not use the Unlimited SLS on 2-meter sailplanes. Doing so could over-stress the wing and could cause it to fold. Maintenance and Storage Extreme prolonged heat is the rubber tubing s worst enemy. Store the SLS in a cool, dry place. Avoid leaving your SLS in the trunk of the car. During regular use of the SLS in a flying season you should lightly dust the tubing with talcum or baby power. This will help the tubing during friction on the ground, thus increasing its overall life. 33