OYA Circle of Success: Intro OYA Presentation Prep: KEEP IN MIND THAT SOME SLIDES INCLUDE ANIMATIONS OF CONTENT AND NOT ALL CONTENT WITHIN A SLIDE WILL APPEAR UNTIL YOU CLICK. HAVE THE OYA TOOLS, STRAND CHART, AND LIGHTENER GUIDE, OYA COLORIST, THE GLOBE, ETC., AVAILABLE FOR VISUAL AID AND REFERENCE. Script Key 14 pt. font bold underlined text Beginning of PowerPoint slide ITALIC CAPITALIZED TEXT DIRECTION: ACTION. DO NOT READ ALOUD. 12 pt. font- non B I U text Dialogue guide & slide content Fuchsia bold text Emphasize Introduction: (Slide 2) Hi, my name is, your OYA Expert for today s class. Thank you for giving OYA this time today. Intro Course Overview: (Slide 3) Here is an overview of the important aspects of OYA, which we will explore today: What is OYA? The OYA circle of success OYA technology meets nature The OYA portfolio The OYA lightening powder, lotions The OYA strand chart The OYA color series How to read OYA shade numbers Basic color theory Underlying pigment OYA Colorist, The Globe The OYA high lift blonds and OYA 0-00 lightening cream The OYA concentrates Hair texture 3 steps to success The OYA tools OYA Colorist, The App Model presentation v 1.1 1
What is OYA?: (Slide 4) OYA stands for: Own Your Art OYA is hair color that performs, simply and beautifully. It s uncomplicated yet multifaceted. Developed by an international team of experts and made in the USA. Accessible, understandable, and highly functional. Synergistic and consistent. Always resulting in radiant, versatile, reflective color that retains the hair s integrity and shine. OYA is a private, independent, new venture, founded and supported by the Schwarzkopf family whose dedication to the professional hair industry has been consistent for 4 generations. OYA is committed to the working stylist. We understand you. When you succeed, we succeed. And speaking of success. The OYA Circle of Success: (Slide 5) The circle of success brings stylists together, builds skill sets and creates strong partnerships and relationships. 3 Key Elements: Experience OYA - oyabeauty.com Comprehensive video tutorials on oyabeauty.com On tour with mini shows Master OYA - OYA Colorist, The App Cluster classes and in-salon education Share OYA - With your peers so that all skill levels are elevated Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest-search OYAbeauty Hashtag: #OYA, #OYAbeauty, #OYAcolorist, #OYAcolor, etc. The circle of success will never break or separate and OYA will continuously share useful education and encourage your creative expression. OYA Technology Meets Nature: (Slide 6) Here is our incredible technology story OYA s exclusive natural color support complex features two key ingredients: Green tea and sea kelp. Our new color technology supports more predictable results and better color retention. v 1.1 2
OYA Technology Meets Nature: (Slide 7) Green Tea Protect Powerful antioxidants (20x stronger than vitamin E) prevents premature color fading Antioxidants protect the hair from outside influences (UV) increasing color retention Anti-inflammatory properties reduce scalp swelling Xanthines encourage scalp circulation and prevent irritation Delightful natural fragrance transforms every hair color application into a sensual experience OYA Technology Meets Nature: (Slide 8) Sea Kelp Restore Packed with 15 amino acids and minerals with rebalancing properties to revitalize and refresh hair and scalp Contains essential fatty acids that maintain and increase hair suppleness and elasticity Antioxidant algal polyphenols and carotenoids protect hair from damage and prolong hair color vibrancy by eliminating cell damaging free radicals Contains vitamins A, C, D, E, K and folic acid for superior internal nourishment Soothes and moisturizes hair and scalp during and after the color service Reduces electrostatic charges to control frizz and flyaways Helps repair damaged hair OYA Is Free Of The Following Chemicals And Irritants: (Slide 9) Parabens PPD p-phenylenediamine Persulfates (potassium, sodium, and ammonium sulfates) 4-ABP Gluten OYA is cruelty free and has never been tested on animals. Ok, we ve covered the cool technology story, now let s see what this all means to a colorist. v 1.1 3
Color Application & Safety Perform A Patch Test: (Slide 10) Even though OYA is gentle, it is important for the safety and comfort of your customers to perform a patch test. Each box of color contains a paper insert with simple instructions on how to execute a patch test, located under sensitivity test. The OYA Portfolio: (Slide 11) OYA has 70 permanent shades and 43 demi permanent shades that come in 90g/3.1oz tubes that offer extra applications in each tube! The OYA Portfolio - Lightening Powder: (Slide 12) There is also an OYA lightening powder available in 900g/31oz cans and 35g/1oz OYA lightening powder packs. OYA Lightening Powder: (Slide 13) OYA lightening powder offers the greatest benefits available in a powder lightener. Up to 7 levels of lift Contains Aloe vera for its restorative properties Convenient single application, 35 gram OYA lightening powder packs Light blue based for client comfort (not a toner) Soothing herbal tea fragrance Mixing ratio 1:2 (1 part powder with 2 parts OYA lotion) Off the scalp application Mixing ratio: 1:2 with 10 vol., 20 vol., or 30 vol. OYA lotion. Process: Up to 40 minutes at room temperature Pre-lightening and toning is the preferred method when you need more than 4 levels of lift. This is an all over color effect instead of a highlighted effect. Never use heat or 40 vol. OYA lotion with the OYA lightening powder. v 1.1 4
Begin your pre-lightening application at the bottom of the nape Create a 1/8-inch horizontal parting that extends from the center of the nape to behind one ear. Clip the rest of the hair out of the way. Beginning 1/8-inch away from the scalp, apply the OYA lightening powder to the mid length & ends with slow gentle brush strokes Create a second parting directly above the first one and apply the OYA lightening powder as before Work throughout the first back quadrant in this manner Complete the opposite back quadrant Repeat the application in the front 2 quadrants Now, throughout each quadrant, apply OYA lightening powder to all of the regrowth sections with slow gentle brush strokes, until the entire head is complete. Avoid contact with scalp. In the front quadrants, direct the hair back from the face for customer comfort Process up to 40 minutes When development is complete, emulsify, rinse, shampoo and condition the hair Now tone with the target OYA demi permanent color and 5 vol. OYA lotion Remember, you can always use the OYA demi permanent clear with your demi formulas to add incredible shine. The OYA Portfolio - Lotions: (Slide 14) OYA has 5 dedicated lotions in 1-liter/33.8 oz. bottles. OYA lotions work exclusively with OYA color. OYA lotions are available in: 5 vol. (1.5%) Deposit only with OYA demi permanent lotion 10 vol. (3%)* Deposit only 20 vol. (6%)* Up to 2 levels of lift 30 vol. (9%)* 2 to 3 levels of lift 40 vol. (12%)* 3 or more levels of lift *For use with OYA permanent color OYA Strand Chart: (Slide 15) DEMO STRAND CHART The compact design makes it the perfect tool for all of your color consultations. The color chart is in the shape of an artists palette, which also represents the O in OYA. v 1.1 5
Each OYA color series is displayed on its own page with bright colorful lines and shade identifiers. You can easily identify each series. You can identify the 100% gray coverage series instantly by the gray line on the outer edge of the OYA strand chart. The OYA strand chart displays both the permanent and demi permanent shade series. The fuchsia dot indicates which shades come in permanent. The teal dot indicates which colors come in demi permanent. REMOVE ONE SHADE SERIES INSERT AND EXPLAIN HOW FUCHSIA DOT REPRESENTS OYA PERMANENT COLOR AND TEAL REPRESENTS OYA DEMI PERMANENT COLOR. The last page shows the OYA concentrates and OYA lightening cream. On the very back page is the OYA natural level selector and the OYA gray % selector. Over here, we have our 4 shades in the OYA high lift blond series. Our promises and pledges are located on the front page. Each shade is identified by its number and letter combination. It is also identified by its full name, which is printed on the front and back of the insert, and on the page itself. OYA Reference Guide: (Slide 16) Everything you will ever need to know to excel with OYA color is contained in the OYA reference guide. Located in the back of the OYA strand chart, this guide will give you an overview of the information needed to formulate with OYA permanent color, OYA demi permanent color, and OYA lightening products. Look at the cool design and how easily this reference guide will pin up in your dispensary. OYA Lightener Guide: (Slide 17) This looks a lot like the OYA reference guide, right? Everything you will ever need to know to rock OYA lightening products is contained in the OYA lightener guide. The OYA lightener guide will give you an overview of the information needed to formulate with OYA lightening products. The lightener guide will easily pin up in your dispensary as well. OYA Demi Permanent Strand Chart: (Slide 18) Here is the OYA demi permanent strand chart, which represents all 43 shades available. The instructions are conveniently placed inside the chart for easy access. DEMO OYA DEMI PERMANENT STRAND CHART. v 1.1 6
The OYA Color Series: (Slide 19) OYA 100% gray coverage- -0 (N) gives a neutral result -00 (N + ) is an excellent tool for covering resistant gray hair -01 (A) can be used to control unwanted warm tones caused by underlying pigment and supports gray coverage for cool fashion shades -04 (B) has a warm result. When you intermix with a warm fashion series, it will give you support for gray coverage, matching results true to swatch. OYA 50% gray coverage- -5 (G), -6 (M), -7 (C), -8 (R), -87 (RC), and -9 (V) OYA 50% gray coverage can be used alone on less than 50% gray hair and provide full coverage. On more than 50% gray hair, it needs to be mixed with the OYA 100% gray coverage series for full coverage. How To Read OYA Shade Numbers: (Slide 20) We all know that shade numbers are the language of the professional stylist. It is recognized throughout our industry as the way to clearly identify the color shade inside the tube, from what level to what shade series, creating endless combinations for creative color formulations. These identifying numbers are a point of difference between professional brands and consumer brands. This specific language provides the professional with a superior form of communication and rapport that cannot be duplicated with a box of color at home. Let s use 6-87 (RC) red copper as our example. The number 6 is the natural color level of the OYA shade from 1 through 10; 1 being the darkest and 10 being the lightest. The numbers after the dash are 8 for red and 7 for copper, together they make red copper (RC). 6-87 is a red copper dark blond. OYA Resistant Gray Hair Coverage Made Easy: (Slide 21) Virgin application: 1 out of 25 customers have resistant gray hair -00 (N + ) natural + series is intended for use with other OYA shades v 1.1 7
Here s an example of a formula for a customers with virgin hair that needs extra coverage for their resistant gray: Step 1: target color Step 2: natural level Step 3: percentage of gray 6-87 (RC) red copper dark blond 4 natural medium brown 90% resistant Regrowth: 10g 6-87 (RC) +10g 6-04 (B) + 10g 6-00 (N + ) + 30g 20 vol. OYA lotion Mid length & ends: 20g 6-87 (RC) + 20g 6-04 (B) + 20g 6-00 (N + ) + 60g 30 vol. OYA lotion Process: 45 minutes The result will be a red copper dark blond. The OYA -00 (N + ) natural + series is a tool for covering resistant gray hair. It contains more pigment. Always intermix with other OYA 100% gray coverage series for best results. Review and Q&A: (Slide 22) TAKE THE TIME TO ADDRESS ANY QUESTIONS OR CONCERNS. THIS IS AN ESSENTIAL PART OF CLASS TIME AND ALLOWS FOR CLARITY AND BETTER UNDERSTANDING OF CONTENT. AFTER ALL CONCERNS ARE ADDRESSED THIS IS A GOOD TIME FOR A 5 MINUTES BREAK. The Basic Color Theory The Color Wheel & Primary Colors: (Slide 23) Any color is based on the universal law of color. The color wheel is your greatest tool for understanding these laws. The laws of the color wheel are finite and never change. Knowing these laws will be your greatest asset. Understanding the universal law of color is a prerequisite to success as a colorist. The universal law of color states that mixing different combinations of the three primary colors can create any and all colors. The primary colors are: red, yellow, and blue. Primary colors cannot be mixed by any other colors. However, primary colors can mix every other color. This is why they are considered principal colors and the most important to know. v 1.1 8
The Basic Color Theory Secondary Colors: (Slide 24) When we look at the color wheel, yellow always appears at the top. By mixing equal portions of 2 primary colors, a secondary color is created. Each secondary color lives on the wheel in-between the two primary colors that created it. The 3 secondary colors are: green, orange and violet. blue + yellow = green yellow + red = orange red + blue = violet The Basic Color Theory Tertiary Colors: (Slide 25) By mixing a primary color with a secondary color, that live next to each other on the wheel, a tertiary color is created. The tertiary colors are: yellow-green yellow-orange red-orange red-violet blue-violet blue-green The Basic Color Theory Brown or Neutral Tones: (Slide 26) Mixing equal portions of all three primary colors, will result in brown. In the hair color world, this is called a neutral. Brown (or neutral) is where the OYA natural series lives. There are many ways to make a neutral tone. The Basic Color Theory The Color Wheel Opposites: (Slide 27) The color wheel is a tool used to help visualize color theory. The 3 primary colors are arranged around the wheel with their secondary and tertiary colors between them. Colors that appear opposite of each other on the wheel neutralize each other (make brown). v 1.1 9
Violet & yellow neutralize each other. Blue & orange neutralize each other. Green & red neutralize each other. In the color theory world these are called color opposites. This is another way to make a neutral tone. The Basic Color Theory Opposites: (Slide 28) Notice that the opposite of a primary color is always a secondary color: Violet (secondary) is the opposite of yellow (primary) Orange (secondary) is the opposite of blue (primary) Green (secondary) is the opposite of red (primary) We know that a secondary color is the combination of 2 primary colors. Example: orange = red + yellow The Basic Color Theory Remembering Opposites: (Slide 29) When mixing a primary color with a secondary color, you are truly mixing all three primary colors together. Mixing opposites example: violet (secondary) + yellow (primary) is the same as blue (primary) + red (primary) + yellow (primary) = brown or neutral In other words: (primary + primary + primary) = neutral As started before, mixing all primary colors results in brown or neutral. The Basic Color Theory Remembering Opposites: (Slide 30) If you ever need to remember the opposite of a primary color, mix the other two primaries together and you know its opposite. For example: o To remember the opposite of blue, we know the other two primaries are yellow and red o If we mix yellow and red together we get orange o Orange is blue s opposite v 1.1 10
If you ever need to remember the opposite of a secondary color, think of which two primary colors mix together to make that secondary color. Whatever primary color is not in the secondary color is its opposite. For example: o To remember the opposite of green we need to know that blue and yellow make green. Blue and yellow are primaries. The only primary color not in green is red. Red is green s opposite. The Basic Color Theory Warm Tones & Cool Tones: (Slide 31) If we split the wheel in half we see that one side is warm and one side is cool. Also, notice how all color opposites include one cool color and one warm color. For example: red and green, red lives on the warm side of the wheel, green lives on the cool side. This contrast of warm vs. cool is what helps opposites neutralize each other. When coloring hair, first determine where the customer s existing color lives on the wheel. This will dictate whether you will enhance the color or neutralize the existing color. OYA Colorist, The Globe Where The Series Live: (Slide 32) When using OYA, it is important to know where each color lives in the universal color wheel. This will allow you to see if the color/shade lives in the cool, warm or neutral part of the color wheel. v 1.1 11
Natural Color Levels of Hair: (Slide 33) Natural hair levels, or depth of darkness, is universal. This is the shade that is naturally occurring on any person s hair. Levels begin as dark as black to as light as an ultra light blond: Determining a customer s natural level is vital to successful formulating. If the target shade level is three levels lighter or more then the natural level, the colorist must know the underlying pigment at the target level. This information is crucial to enhancing or neutralizing the warmth from the underlying pigment. Underlying Pigment Levels: (Slide 34) When lightening natural hair, a spectrum of warm tones, called underlying pigments, are exposed. Each time a level is lightened or stripped away it reveals a lighter tone, ranging on a spectrum from red to pale yellow. This is important when lifting 3 levels or more. These warm tones are different at each natural level and will influence the final color result every time. v 1.1 12
OYA Colorist, The Globe The OYA -01 (A) Ash Series: (Slide 35) The OYA -01 (A) ash series exists in the cool tones ranging from green to blue to violet on the color globe. The OYA -01 (A) ash series is designed to neutralize the warmth of each level of the underlying pigments. For example: If we needed to neutralize a level 6 orange gold underlying pigment, the OYA Colorist, The Globe indicates that we would use a 6-01. We know this simply by following the arrow across the color globe. This is why knowing our color opposites is so valuable. Red & green Yellow & purple Orange & blue OYA Colorist, The Globe: (Slide 36) Welcome to the first section of the new and improved OYA Colorist, The Globe, the greatest tool you will ever use when formulating with OYA. v 1.1 13
This comprehensive graph has answers to all the information you will need before you formulate. Every OYA shade is displayed in its location on the OYA color globe, indicating what its color base is. The underlying pigment levels are displayed along the top edge ranging from pale yellow to red along the warm tones of the color globe. In correspondence with the underlying pigments we see the natural color levels of the hair ranging from 10 being the lightest to 1 being the darkest. We also see the same arrows we saw before that help indicate the exact opposite of each underlying pigment and also the opposite of each natural hair color level. Understanding how to read this tool is a great asset to all who use OYA. OYA Colorist, The Globe Coloring Tone On Tone & Darker 4 options: (Slide 37) When coloring tone on tone & darker there are four options. Those options are: Option1: Less than 50% gray hair Option 2: Between 50% and 90% gray hair Option 3: More than 90% gray hair Option 4: Darkening 4 levels or more on pre-lightened or virgin hair Let look at one option at a time starting with the details of option 1. OYA Colorist, The Globe Coloring Tone On Tone & Darker- Less Than 50% Gray Hair: (Slide 38) Simply mix the target shade with 10 vol. OYA lotion when working with OYA permanent colors or 5 vol. OYA lotion when working with OYA demi permanent colors. This page of The Globe also provides you with a key and a chart for processing time. OYA lotion use- Reminder: 5 vol. OYA lotion: For use with all OYA demi permanent colors 10 vol. OYA lotion: For coloring tone-on-tone and darkening with OYA permanent colors 20 vol. OYA lotion: For lifting up to 2 levels with OYA permanent colors 30 vol. OYA lotion: For coloring 2 3 levels of lift with OYA permanent colors 40 vol. OYA lotion: For coloring 3 or more levels of lift with OYA v 1.1 permanent colors 14
OYA Colorist, The Globe Coloring Tone On Tone & Darker Between 50% & 90% Gray Hair: (Slide 39) For all the OYA gray coverage series, simply mix the target shade with 10 vol. OYA lotion. For the OYA fashion shades, there are three formula options: For the cool/neutral OYA fashion tone -6 (M) mahogany, add 1/2 of the OYA -0 (N) natural OYA gray coverage series to your formula to support gray coverage For the warm OYA fashion tones gold, copper, red and red copper, simply add 1/2 of the -04 (B) beige OYA gray coverage series to your formula to support gray coverage For the cool OYA fashion tone violet, add 1/2 of the -01 (A) ash OYA gray coverage series to your formula to support gray coverage. Remember you re dealing with more than 50% gray hair. OYA Colorist, The Globe Coloring Tone On Tone & Darker More Than 90% Gray Hair: (Slide 40) For more than 90% gray hair increase the ratio of the gray coverage series to 2/3 and 1/3 of the fashion series. Also increase the vol. to 20 vol. OYA lotion. This will support gray coverage on a high percentage of gray. For resistant gray hair, replace the gray covering series with -00 (N + ) or add the -00 (N + ) to the gray covering series and always use 20 vol. -00 (N + ) for resistant gray ONLY -00 (N + ) has the potential to drab color, so only use in formulas for resistant gray hair Lotion: For ultimate gray coverage, use 20 vol. OYA Colorist, The Globe Coloring Tone On Tone & Darker Darkening 4 Levels Or More: (Slide 41) In this situation, there are 2 possible scenarios: 1. Darkening 4 levels or more on pre-lightened hair. 2. Darkening 4 levels or more on natural/virgin hair. 1. Darkening 4 levels or more on pre-lightened hair. When dealing with pre-lightened hair a certain amount of the natural underlying pigment has been chemically removed from the hair shaft. If you want to go darker, the underlying pigment that was removed must be replaced. This provides a foundation to support the darker color desired. v 1.1 15
We call the re-introduction of pigment into the hair filling. Filling is done with the OYA permanent concentrates in order to create pre-pigmentation. Simply mix 25g of concentrate with 75g of water. Allow it to penetrate the hair for 10-30 minutes and wipe off with a towel. Do not shampoo. Which concentrate should you use when filling? Easy! Use the concentrate that represents the underlying pigment at the desired target level that was removed from the hair when the hair was lightened. This is why we call it filling. You are filling in the pigment that was stripped away before you deposit. This is the first section of the chart. REFER TO THE UNDERLYING PIGMENTS ON THE COLOR WHEEL ON THE PREVIOUS SPREAD. For target shades level 1-3 the underlying pigment is red. Therefore the red pigment needs to be reintroduced by using the OYA red concentrate. For target shades level 4-6 the underlying pigment is orange. Therefore the orange pigment needs to be reintroduced by using the OYA orange concentrate. For target shades level 7-10 the underlying pigment is yellow. Therefore the yellow pigment needs to be reintroduced by using the OYA yellow concentrate. OYA Colorist, The Globe Coloring Tone On Tone & Darker Darkening 4 Levels Or More: (Slide 42) Once the filling is complete, use the virgin formulations. These are also the formulas you use when coloring more than 4 levels darker on hair that was not previously lightened and has less than 90% gray hair. For the 100% gray coverage series: o Mix the target shade with 10 vol. OYA lotion For the balanced OYA fashion series; mahogany: o Add the -0 (N) natural OYA gray coverage series to the target shade and mix with 10 vol. OYA lotion For the warm OYA fashion series; gold, copper, red and red copper: o Add the -04 (B) beige OYA gray coverage series to the target shade and mix with 10 vol. OYA lotion For the cool OYA fashion series; violet: o Add the -01 (A) ash OYA gray coverage series to the target shade and mix with 10 vol. OYA lotion OYA Colorist, The Globe Guidelines For Coloring Resistant And/Or Coarse Gray Hair (Slide 43) Guidelines for coloring different hair textures: Fine hair: Formulate one level lighter Medium Hair: Follow The Colorist, The Globe v 1.1 16
Resistant and/or coarse hair: o Formulate 1 level darker o Replace the gray coverage series (Natural Beige, and Ash series) with -00 (N + ) or add the -00 (N + ) to the gray coverage series and always use 20 vol. lotion. OYA Colorist, The Globe Coloring Lighter 3 Options: (Slide 44) When coloring lighter with OYA there are three potential options to choose from. Those options are: Option 1: 100% gray coverage series Option 2: Fashion series when less than 50% gray hair Option 3: Fashion series when more than 50% gray hair Let s review each individual option together starting with 100% gray coverage series. OYA Colorist, The Globe Coloring Lighter 100% Gray Coverage Series: (Slide 45) With this option, you don t need to worry about the percentage of gray. Why? Well, because no matter what, the OYA 100% gray coverage series performs. Always! The three, 100% gray coverage series are: -0 (N) natural, -01 (A) ash, and -04 (B) beige. We do not show the -00 (N + ) natural + series since these are designed to use only for working with resistant gray hair. We will get into the details of how to use this series later. When lifting only 1 level, there is just 1 formula to follow for all 3 series: Mix the target shade with OYA lotion 20 vol. at a 1:1 ratio. Let s review OYA lotion volumes one more time. When lifting 2 levels, the same formula is used for all three 100% gray coverage series. Mix the target shade with OYA lotion. The only difference is the different lotions used in the regrowth formula and the mid length & ends formula: 20 vol. for regrowth, 30 vol. for mid length & ends. For the regrowth formula, use a lower hydrogen peroxide % because the heat off of the scalp will accelerate the lifting process. So, for all 3 series, mix the target shade with 20 vol. OYA lotion for the regrowth application and mix the target shade with 30 vol. OYA lotion for the mid length & ends. When lifting 3 levels, you will start to encounter the effect of the underlying pigments. Remember, these underlying pigments will reveal warmth that you may not desire for the target shade. Therefore, you will need to neutralize their impact by using cooler shades. v 1.1 17
The -0 (N) natural series is a special case. For the -0 (N) natural series, instead of using the natural target shade, use the corresponding -01 (A) ash shade to prevent the color result from being too warm. The -01 (A) ash will neutralize the warm and give you the natural -0 look you desire. Let s go over an example together: o For example: Our target shade is OYA permanent 8-0 (N) natural with a natural level 5 The underlying pigment of their target level 8 is yellow. Refer to The Globe to view this. When lifting 3 levels, the warmth of the yellow will show up and will prevent you from achieving the desired natural look. The only way to get the natural shade is to neutralize the yellow. On a level 8, you would neutralize with an 8-01 (A) ash in order to achieve a beautiful, natural result of an 8-0 (N). 8-01 (A) ash has a violet base. Remember violet and yellow are opposites on the color wheel. They neutralize each other perfectly every time. Always consider the heat from the scalp while using lotions. When lifting three levels to achieve the -0 (N) target shade, mix the -01 (A) ash series with 30 vol. OYA lotion for the regrowth, and 40 vol. OYA lotion for the mid length & ends. When lifting 3 levels with the -01 (A) ash series, simply use the target shade with the 30 vol. OYA lotion for the regrowth and 40 vol. OYA lotion for the mid length & ends. Since the -01 (A) ash series is cool by nature, it will effectively counter any underlying pigments warmth. If necessary, you can add concentrates to help neutralize even more. When lifting 3 levels with the -04 (B) beige series, instead of using the beige target shade, use the corresponding -0 (N) natural shade to prevent the color result from being too warm. Let s go over an example together: o For example: The target shade is OYA permanent 8-04 (B) beige with a natural level is 5. The underlying pigment of the target level 8 is yellow. When lifting 3 levels, the warmth of the yellow is revealed. In this case the only way to achieve this target shade would be to support, rather than neutralize the yellow by using an 8-0 (N) natural in order to achieve a beautiful, beige result of an 8-04 (b) beige. Again, always consider the heat from the scalp when using lotions. So, when lifting 3 levels with the -04 (B) beige as a target shade, mix the -0 (N) natural series with 30 vol. OYA lotion for the regrowth and mix the -0 (N) natural series with 40 vol. OYA lotion for the mid length & ends. When lifting 4 levels or more, pre-lighten for 30-40 minutes to 1 level above the target shade and always use 20 vol. OYA lotion. v 1.1 18
OYA Colorist, The Globe Coloring Lighter Fashion Series When Less Than 50% Gray Hair: (Slide 46) Let s move on to coloring lighter with the fashion series for less than 50% gray coverage. When lifting only 1 level, there is just 1 formula to follow for all series. Mix the target shade with 20 vol. OYA lotion in a 1:1 ratio. When lifting 2 levels, the same formula is used for all fashion series. Mix the target shade with OYA lotion. The only difference is the different lotions in the regrowth formula and the mid length & ends. For the regrowth formula, use a lower hydrogen peroxide % because the heat off the scalp will accelerate the lifting power of the hydrogen peroxide. o So, for all fashion series, mix the target shade with 20 vol. OYA lotion for the regrowth application and mix the target shade with 30 vol. OYA lotion for the mid length & ends application. When lifting 3 levels, all fashion series except for the gold series perform the same way. Simply mix the target shade with OYA lotion. The only difference is the different lotions used in the regrowth and the mid length & ends. o So, for all fashion series, mix the target shade with 30 vol. OYA lotion for the regrowth application and mix the target shade with 40 vol. OYA lotion for the mid length & ends application. o Exception: With the -5 (G) gold series we recommend not using the gold target shade. Instead, use the corresponding level -04 (B) beige series to avoid an overly warm color result. The beige series will help support the warmth in the underlying pigment, which is necessary to achieve the target gold shade. Mix the 30 vol. OYA lotion for the regrowth application and mix with the 40 vol. OYA lotion for the mid length & ends application. When lifting 4 levels, use the exact same formula when lifting 3 levels. Just add the 0-00 lightening cream to the formula to achieve one more level of lift. When lifting 5 levels or more, pre-lighten the hair first before depositing the desired target shade. Always pre-lighten for 30-45 minutes to 1 level above the target shade and always use 20 vol. OYA lotion. OYA Colorist, The Globe Coloring Lighter Fashion Series When More Than 50% Gray Hair: (Slide 47) Lastly we have coloring lighter with the fashion series for hair with more than 50% gray. When working with more than 50% gray hair, we can easily split the OYA fashion series into 3 groups. They are: 1. The cool fashion series: violet series 2. The warm fashion series: gold, copper, red and red copper series v 1.1 19
3. The balanced fashion series: mahogany series (which is both warm and cool) Let s go through these three groups one at a time. 1. For the cool (V) violet OYA fashion series use the same formula as working with less than 50% gray. Just add the gray coverage series into the mix: For 1 level of lift, add the corresponding -0 (N) natural shade to the mix For 2 levels of lift, add the corresponding -0 (N) natural shade to the mix For 3 levels of lift, add the corresponding -01 (A) ash shade to it. The ash will support the violet perfectly. For 4 levels of lift or more, with any fashion series you must pre-lighten 1 level above the target shade with lightening powder. Then deposit the target shade with either OYA permanent or OYA demi permanent color. Always take porosity into account when deciding on which type of color to use. Depending on the condition of the hair you may sometimes use demi and sometimes use permanent. 2. For all warm OYA fashion series (gold, copper, red, and red copper), use the same formula as working with less than 50% gray, just add a gray covering series into the mix. For these warm series, add the corresponding -04 (B) beige series. The warmth of the -04 (B) beige series perfectly supports the warmth that is desired. For 1 level of lift, add the corresponding level -04 (B) beige series to the mix For 2 levels of lift, add the corresponding level -04 (B) beige series to the mix For 3 levels of lift, with any warm fashion series, add the corresponding level - 04 (B) beige series to it For 4 levels of lift or more, with any fashion series you must pre-lighten 1 level above the target shade with lightening powder. Then deposit the target shade with either OYA permanent or OYA demi permanent color. Always take porosity into account when deciding on which type of color to use. Depending on the condition of the hair sometimes you may want to use demi or sometimes you may want to use permanent. 3. For the perfectly balanced -6 (M) mahogany series, it is both cool and warm and is shown closest to the neutral center of the color wheel. For 1 level of lift, add the corresponding -0 (N) natural shade to the mix For 2 levels of lift, add the corresponding -0 (N) natural shade to it For 3 levels of lift, with the mahogany series, add the corresponding -0 (N) natural shade to it. For 4 levels of lift or more, with any fashion series you must pre-lighten 1 level above the target shade with lightening powder. Then deposit the target shade with either OYA permanent or OYA demi permanent color. Always take porosity into account when deciding on which type of color to use. Depending on the condition of the hair sometimes you may want to use demi or sometimes you may want to use permanent. v 1.1 20
OYA Colorist, The Globe Guidelines For Coloring Resistant And/Or Coarse Gray Hair (Slide 48) Guidelines for coloring different hair textures: Fine hair: Formulate one level lighter Medium Hair: Follow The Colorist, The Globe Resistant and/or coarse hair: o Increase the developer strength o Replace the gray coverage series (Natural Beige, and Ash series) with -00 (N + ) or add the -00 (N + ) to the gray coverage series o Add up to ¼ of the OYA lightening cream (0-00) to your color cream formula Review And Q&A: (Slide 49) TAKE THE TIME TO ADDRESS ANY QUESTIONS OR CONCERNS. THIS IS AN ESSENTIAL PART OF CLASS TIME AND ALLOWS FOR CLARITY AND BETTER UNDERSTANDING OF CONTENT. The OYA High Lift Blonds: (Slide 50) OYA high lift blonds can be utilized on any customer from a natural level 6 and higher. These shades are designed to create beautiful, natural blonds without using a lightener and toner. They lift and tone at the same time. 12-0 (N) natural high lift blond 12-1 (A) ash high lift blond 12-4 (B) beige high lift blond 12-9 (V) violet high lift blond Mixing ratio: 1:2 with 30 or 40 vol. OYA lotion Process: 45 minutes The OYA Lightening Cream 0-00: (Slide 51) The OYA lightening cream has no tonality and can be utilized as follows: As a stand alone lightener: For up to 4 levels of lift on virgin hair Mixing ratio: 1:1 OYA lotion: 10, 20, 30 or 40 vol. depending on the levels of lift desired To add 1 extra level of lift: With any OYA permanent color Mixing ratio: 1:1 Color mix: 1 part 0-00 + 2 parts OYA color Process: 45-60 minutes v 1.1 21
Example: 20g of 0-00 + 40g of OYA color + 60g of OYA lotion The OYA Concentrates: (Slide 52) OYA concentrates can be used in 3 different ways: AS AN ADDITIVE Add to any OYA color to enhance or neutralize tones To neutralize unwanted warmth, add color tones of violet or blue To enhance or intensify warm tones, add yellow, orange or red AS A FILLER Use yellow, orange, or red Mixing ratio 1:3 with warm water ALONE Use 10 vol. or 20 vol. OYA lotion Mixing ratio 1:1 The OYA Concentrates: (Slide 53) When using the OYA concentrates as filler, for darkening hair four levels or more, there are 3 simple steps to follow. Determine which concentrate to use as a filler, by identifying the target level. Fill the hair with the concentrate that represents the underlying pigment of the target shade. The chart below is the section of the The Globe that displays those steps. Step 1: Fill with OYA concentrates for 10-30 minutes. Step 2: Wipe off excess color with a towel. Step 3: Apply the appropriate formula. There is no need to fill with OYA concentrates for darkening 4 levels or more on virgin blond hair, only on pre-lightened hair. How To Use The OYA Concentrates: (Slide 54) 1. To intensify warm color results use the yellow, orange or red concentrates: Add up to 50% of the OYA concentrate to the formula v 1.1 22
If using 60g color, up to 30g of concentrate can be added 2. To neutralize unwanted warmth: To neutralize yellow, use the violet concentrate To neutralize orange, use the blue concentrate To neutralize red, use equal parts blue & yellow concentrates To neutralize at levels 7 to 10, add up to 5% of the formula. Example: If using 60g OYA color, add up to 3g OYA concentrate. To neutralize at levels 4 to 6, add up to 15% of the formula. Example: 60g OYA color, add up to 9g OYA concentrate. To neutralize at levels 1 to 3, add up to 25% of the formula. Example: 60g OYA color, add up to 15g OYA concentrate. Always ensure the developer amount is equal to the total formula of color including the concentrate. Hair Texture: (Slide 55) Determining your customer s hair texture will assist you with your hair color formulations in 3 ways: Fine textured hair has less space to fill so you may need to formulate 1 level lighter Medium textured should be formulated per manufacturers recommendations Coarse textured hair has more space to fill so you may need to formulate 1 level darker Texture affects timing. Coarser texture may require additional timing for gray coverage. OYA 3 Steps To Success: (Slide 56) Formulating successfully can be the most challenging part of a colorist s day. OYA has simplified successful formulating into 3 easy steps to ensure excellent color results. Let s go through each step: STEP 1: Determine your target shade using the shade inserts within the OYA strand chart. Place the desired series up to the customer s complexion to determine the most complementary target shade for their skin tone and eye color. Be sure to fan the shade swatch out, since it may appear darker when it is compact. Together, you can then decide if the color is flattering to your customer. Once you ve chosen the target shade, it s time to create your formula. v 1.1 23
OYA 3 Steps To Success: (Slide 57) STEP 2: Determine the natural color level of the customer s hair using the OYA natural level selector. Start by discovering your customer s natural level. Place the OYA natural level selector next to your customer s scalp in two places at the crown and nape. To get the most accurate reading, fan the swatch out and place it directly upon the customer s hair. This will allow a clear visual reading. Remember how important the natural levels of hair are due to the underlying pigment at each level. Being off by one level could alter your final color result. Take your time on this step! It will pay off. OYA 3 Steps To Success: (Slide 58) STEP 3: Determine the percentage of gray hair with the OYA gray % selector. To provide exceptional gray coverage, the first important step is to identify the percentage of your customer s gray hair. That s where the OYA gray % selector comes in. Here s how it works: Simply remove the OYA gray % selector from the OYA strand chart, place it next to your customer s hair, and move through the percentages until you find the right match. The OYA gray % selector has swatches showing 10% gray, 50% gray and 90% gray. Now you have the three elements that you need the target shade, the natural level and the percentage of gray to create the precise formula needed to achieve your desired result. It is always important to perform a patch test. Although OYA is a gentle brand we don t want anyone to experience discomfort due to an unknown allergy. Review And Q&A: (Slide 59) TAKE THE TIME TO ADDRESS ANY QUESTIONS OR CONCERNS. THIS IS AN ESSENTIAL PART OF CLASS TIME AND ALLOWS FOR CLARITY AND BETTER UNDERSTANDING OF CONTENT. Tools: (Slide 60) GESTURE TO POWERPOINT AND/OR TOOLS IN PERSON. The tools used will make a difference in the color result. OYA has chosen the best in design. OYA tools include: Brushes: small brush for precision and smaller surface areas large brush for applications on larger surface areas v 1.1 24
Bowls designed to support your brush properly Bottles accurate and easy to squeeze Scales lightweight and easy to read Timers small and accurate Capes large design for better coverage Aprons designed to protect more of your clothing Precise measurements and timing are the secrets to perfect color. If you don t combine the correct amount of OYA color and OYA lotion, you will not get the results that you expect. That s why OYA recommends using a scale to measure all of your color formulas. While the bowl is on the scale, be sure the scale reads zero. DEMO SCALE Formulating With OYA Colorist, The App: (Slide 61) OYA is with you wherever you go. It s a quick and effective helper for foolproof formulations in just a few easy steps! All the formulations in the OYA Colorist, The App reflect the formulations in OYA Colorist, The Globe so you can always cross reference the two tools. First, indicate what the customer's desired target color is Second, indicate what the customer's natural level is Third, indicate what the percentage of gray hair is and lastly, indicate whether or not the application is a virgin application or a retouch application And voila! The App provides you with the formula of success, every time. The OYA Colorist, The App includes: Complete OYA mixing ratios Complete OYA timing info OYA permanent and OYA demi permanent formulas Pre-pigmenting info Pre-lightening info Customer information Links to oyabeauty.com ALLOW CLASS TO DOWNLOAD THE APP IF THEY HAVEN T ALREADY. OTHERS MAY USE THIS TIME TO PRACTICE WITH, OR EXPLORE, THE APP. v 1.1 25
Download The OYA Colorist, The App - iphone: (Slide 62) iphone You will need to know your Apple ID password 1. Locate the App Store on your home screen and open. 2. Touch the search icon at the bottom of the screen. 3. Touch the search bar at the top of the screen and type in oyacolorist touch OYA Colorist, The App when it appears in your search results. 4. An image of the OYA Colorist, The App will appear in the search result touch the FREE button (It may also appear as a cloud icon with an arrow pointing down). 5. The free button will turn into a green INSTALL button touch it to begin downloading. 6. You will then be asked to type in your Apple ID but don t worry, the app is free. 7. Once downloading is complete the INSTALL button will become an OPEN button touch it to open the app and begin formulating. è è Download OYA Colorist, The App - ipad: (Slide 63) ipad: You will need your Apple ID password 1. Locate the App Store on your home screen and open. 2. Touch the search icon at the top right of the screen. v 1.1 26
3. Before searching you must change the settings from ipad to iphone in the upper left corner indicated in the picture below. 4. Touch the search bar at the top of the screen and type in oyacolorist. 5. OYA Colorist, The App will appear touch the icon or a small cloud with an arrow pointing down to begin the downloading process 6. OYA Colorist, The App will open into its own window for downloading touch the small cloud again it will download then touch OPEN to begin formulating. è v 1.1 27
Download OYA Colorist, The App - Android: (Slide 64) Android download instructions: Locate the Play Store icon on your home screen and open Touch the APPS menu at the top left of the screen Touch the search icon and type in oyacolorist the OYA Colorist, The App will appear touch it to continue Touch install touch permission Once it has downloaded successfully touch open to begin formulating. Experience OYA: (Slide 65) 1:1 mixing ratio for OYA permanent and demi permanent colors 30-45 minutes for OYA permanent color 45 minutes for optimum gray coverage with OYA permanent color 10-20 minutes for OYA demi permanent color 1:2 ratio for OYA high lift blonds and OYA lightening powder 45 minutes for OYA high lift blonds and up to 40 minutes for OYA lightening powder HANDS ON DEMO OF ENTIRE COLOR LINE AND TOOLS Now it s time for everyone to see and feel OYA. After getting our formula from the colorist app, we will weigh the OYA color and OYA lotion on an OYA scale and mix it thoroughly. Weighing your color is very important. It gives you accuracy first, and then allows perfect repeat formulations. First place the bowl on the scale Make sure the scale reads zero Squeeze the recommended amount of OYA color into the bowl Now add the OYA lotion Remember your ratios for mixing: 1:1, one part OYA color and one part OYA lotion or 1:2, one part OYA color and two parts OYA lotion. v 1.1 28
I will pass the color around to everyone so you can experience the awesome aroma of OYA color. PASS THE BOWL OF OYA COLOR OUT TO THE CLASS Check out our cool OYA bowls and OYA brushes as well. Let s show our model now! OYA Supports YOU- Model Presentation: (Slide 66) Here are some fantastic support pieces we have for you: OYA strand chart OYA Colorist, The Globe OYA Colorist, The App The OYA reference guide The OYA lightener guide Take a look at our website oyabeauty.com. There you will find many educational videos available at all times. You can also contact our helpline 1(800) 9OYA.411 (1.888.969.2411). There is a live, OYA specialist available to answer any and all questions you may have from Monday- Friday 9-5 PST. NOW IS WHEN YOU WOULD DO YOUR DEMO WITH YOUR MODEL IF TIME ALLOWS IT. IF NOT, MOVE ON. Circle Of Success With OYA: (Slide 67) Now that you ve been introduced to OYA and are ready to make it sing, we have additional classes available for you: Blonds and Sunshimmers Reds and Brunettes Gray Coverage Corrective Color OYA education videos are also available on OYAbeauty.com If you are interested in becoming an OYA Expert, contact your local Regional Artistic Manager. Course Overview: What is OYA? The OYA circle of success OYA technology meets nature The OYA portfolio The OYA lightening powder, lotions The OYA strand chart The OYA color series v 1.1 29
How to read OYA shade numbers Basic color theory Underlying pigment OYA Colorist, The Globe The OYA high lift blonds and OYA 0-00 lightening cream The OYA concentrates Hair texture 3 steps to success The OYA tools OYA Colorist, The App Model presentation OYA Helpline Information: (Slide 68) Siobhan McCallum is OYA s Product Development Manager and is the voice of the helpline. She is available to answer any questions or concerns about OYA products from 9AM to 5PM PST Monday through Friday. 1.888.9OYA.411 1.888.969.2411 Monday-Friday: 9-5 PST oyabeauty.com v 1.1 30