SPORT CLIMBS HORI BAY OCTOBER 2014 EDITION Climbing near Nelson, New Zealand
Another day at
Hori Bay Hori Bay, New Zealand Sectors 1 The Arena The Sideshow 2 3 5 6 8 WARNING! Climbing is a potentially hazardous activity carrying a risk of personal injury or death. Climbing should be undertaken with a full understanding of all inherent risks. This book is a guide and we have attempted to ensure that the information was correct at the time of publication. You are responsible for your own decisions. Use this guidebook at your own risk. We disclaim any liability for injury, death or damage that may occur by using the information in this book. 1 2 3 The Arena The Sideshow 5 6 8 Sport Climbs: Hori Bay Copyright 2014 by Kiwi Tracks and Guides Limited. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles or reviews. October 2014 edition. For updates go to www.kiwitracks.co.nz For feedback, corrections or new climbs please e-mail climbs@kiwitracks.co.nz Cover photo: Under The Boardwalk (17) as seen from Hori Bay Sectors 1
Introduction Sport climbing 45 minutes from Nelson? Hori Bay is a fun coastal experience with plenty of short easy bolted climbs and more to come. There are some obvious caves and short cliffs near the car park at the Hori Bay beach but bolting these seems like an obnoxious intrusion on other users of this beautiful little spot. Instead, we explored the promising looking coastline just Northeast of the sandy beach which is a lot less accessible to non-climbing recreational users. Trial and error revealed that only the bottom 10m or so of rock which has been cleaned by eons of ocean action is solid enough to be pleasant. In fact, the lower band is actually rather good. (p5) is currently the best spot to hang out and climb. Flat base. Plenty of climbs to fill the available tide window. This guide is a work in progress. Look for updates through the summer as climbs are added. 10-17 18-21 7 3 Drive The Moat - stretching the tide window Head out of Nelson on SH6 toward Havelock over Whangamoa Saddle and down Whangamoa Valley. About 3km after the Mt Duppa Track sign is the Hori Bay turn-off to the left (not marked as such). The distance from the petrol station in Hira to the turn off is 17km (14.5km from Rai Valley if approaching from the Havelock direction). After getting off SH6, immediately cross the river and turn right onto a forestry road. Follow the primary forest road past many minor intersections to Hori Bay. The final 2km is a steep all-wheel-drive hill down to sea-level (typically fine for all vehicles with the occasional rutted section but can turn into a steep slippery clay-fest after heavy rain). 2 Introduction
Approach From the parking area head Northeast along the coastline. Getting to The Beach is a 15-20 minute coast scramble and less experienced climbers may need to be top-roped for 2 or 3 short sections depending on the tide or swells. There are stainless steel chain links and a belay anchor at The Moat so that an experienced climber can make it safe for the rest of the party. Similarly the final descent into The Arena can be rappelled from the anchor at the top of Fire Escape (10m) to avoid the steep and exposed Exit Scramble. The crag is typically easy to access for about 1.5 hours on either side of low tide but with familiarity the usable tide window is closer to 6 hours (for current tides Google croisilles harbour tides ). Sectors and climbs are listed left to right facing the crag. All these climbs are new: belayers should wear helmets. Exit Scramble (10). Introduction The approach 3
Access and Environment The usual common sense applies when it comes to respect for the others and the environment: park safely (if there is no space, park further away and walk) minimize impact (take only photos, leave only chalk dust) remove litter (even if it wasn't yours) be a good ambassador for climbing when encountering non-climbers How can I contribute? Always take a rubbish bag. Start at the parking area and then look for obvious rubbish on the beach. It may seem futile to clean an entire ocean but we can start with our beach. Equipment and Safety All climbs with blue numbers in this guide are bolted for sport climbing and have lower-off anchors. The bolt count mentioned in the climb descriptions does not include the anchor. Climbs with red numbers are unbolted scrambles. Wear a helmet while belaying. This is especially important at a newly developed crag. Don't hang out in the target area. Where will a hold pulled off a steep climb land? If you take children to the crag, protect them from potential rockfall. Inherent in climbing is an element of risk. Only you are responsible for your own safety. Use good judgment when it comes to trusting the rock, fixed protection, your equipment and your partner. Also remember that this is only a guide: it may contain errors and will become less accurate as conditions change over time. Anchor Usage When leading at Hori Bay we lower off the anchors. We do not rappel. We care more about safety than we do about wear-and-tear on the anchors from lowering. Contribute to our anchor replacement fund if it makes you feel better about lowering vs rappelling. When top-roping, clip the rope into the anchors with your own gear to prevent excessive wear. Don't top-rope directly through the fixed anchor. Use a locking biner on the rope and more than one sling. Endless Summer (19) 4 Introduction
1 Mr Universe 18,21 9B Two pitches. First pitch is a lead no matter which end of the rope you are on (you ll understand when you see it). Fun with extra adventure value. 2 Under The Boardwalk 17 6B Climbs the obvious prow in the center of the crag. Easy start to steep corner then arête. 3 Good Vibrations 16 3B Short and sweet corner climb. 4 The North Shore (Prj) 3B 5 Endless Summer 19 4B Surprisingly dry despite the seepy-looking rock. Superb climb. 6 Surf s Up 18 Some of the lower holds can be damp but they are huge so no sympathy. 7 Surfer Girl 14 3B Pulling the upper bulge is as hard as you want to make it. Easiest using the flake on the right. 8 Summer Holiday 13 3B On-angle groove followed by short steep section on huge holds. Mr Universe (21) Note: there are some bolts up the easy break right of Mr Universe. This is the access scramble to anchors above the grass slope used for developing the crag (not a climb). 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 5
The Arena This is the large amphitheatre encountered after the approach traverse. The final descent into The Arena can be a steep scramble (Exit Scramble) or you can leave a short line (10m) from the anchors at the top of Fire Escape and rappel in. Unfortunately the large walls in The Arena have proven so far to be crud. We have resolved to persevere though. The Arena 6 The Arena
1 Cat Walk 12 5B Slab just right of the obvious corner crack at the far right end of The Arena. Alternate bolted exit traverse to the anchor at the top of Fire Escape shown. 1 Cat Walk (12) 2 Fire Escape 10 3B An alternate to the steep Exit Scramble at the far right end of The Arena when heading back out from the crag. Don't miss the 3rd bolt (look in the hole). Use the chain anchor and a short line (10m) to rappel in when approaching. 3 Exit Scramble 10 Start in the corner and then diagonally up and right on large holds. Steep unprotected exit scramble (or down climb on approach). Rather use Fire Escape above left wall to rappel in and climb out. 3 2 The Arena Fire Escape (10) and Exit Scramble (10) 7
The Sideshow 1 Slim Pickings 16 3B Short steep climb between The Moat and the Exit Scramble. Easy stemming to the 2nd bolt and then some power to finish it. 1 The Sideshow The approach 8 The Sideshow
First Ascents and Credits Cat Walk - Michael Cartwright, Tamara Cartwright, 2014 Endless Summer - Michael Cartwright, Cathy O Dowd, 2013 Fire Escape - Michael Cartwright, Tamara Cartwright, 2014 Good Vibrations - Michael Cartwright, Tamara Cartwright, 2013 Mr Universe - Michael Cartwright, Al Mark, Tamara Cartwright, 2013 Climbs by Grade, By Crag 21 19 18 17 16 14 13 12 10 Mr Universe 5 Endless Summer 5 Surf s Up 5 Under The Boardwalk 5 Good Vibrations 5 The Sideshow Slim Pickings 8 Surfer Girl 5 Summer Holiday 5 The Arena Cat Walk 7 The Arena Fire Escape 7 Projects The North Shore 5 Slim Pickings - Michael Cartwright,Cathy O Dowd, 2014 Summer Holiday - Cathy O Dowd, Michael Cartwright, 2013 Surf s Up - Michael Cartwright, Cathy O Dowd, 2013 Surfer Girl - Cathy O Dowd, Michael Cartwright, 2013 Under The Boardwalk - Michael Cartwright, Al Mark, 2013 NZ 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 FR 4+ 5 USA 5.7 5.8 5+ 5.9 6a 5.10a 6a+ 5.10b 6b 5.10c 5.10d 6b+ 5.11a 6c 5.11b 6c+ 5.11c 7a 5.11d 7a+ 7b 5.12a 5.12b 7b+ 5.12c 7c 5.12d 7c+ 5.13a This guide includes text and photos from multiple sources. Many climbers helped with editing, proof reading and constructive criticism. Contributors include Michael Cartwright, Tamara Cartwright, Al Mark and Cathy O'Dowd. Climbs by Grade, By Crag Respect the locals 9
Sunset at Hori Bay