MEASUREMENT OF DISSOLVED CARBON DIOXIDE CONCENTRATION IN A SURF ZONE

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MEASUREMENT OF DISSOLVED CARBON DIOXIDE CONCENTRATION IN A SURF ZONE Junichi Otsuka 1, Yasunori Watanabe 2 and Aumi Saruwatari 3 In this stud, we measured dissolved carbon dioide (D-CO 2) concentration in a surf one in a laborator wave flume filled with freshwater and seawater using a glass electrode CO 2 meter, and also observed the air-water turbulent flow field using Particle Image Velocimetr (PIV). D-CO 2 concentration increased with time and the bore reached a saturated state earlier than the transition. The gas transfer velocit in the transition was much higher than that in the bore since the numerous entrained bubbles trapped within three-dimensional vortices significantl contribute to the gas dissolution into water in the transition. The gas transfer velocit in a surf one in freshwater were found to be higher than those in seawater. We estimated the gas transfer velocit in a surf one from the turbulent energ in breaking waves and the Schmidt number. It was found that the gas transfer velocit could be roughl estimated from the turbulent energ in breaking waves. Kewords: breaking waves, gas dissolution, gas transfer velocit, entrained bubbles INTRODUCTION The gas transfer velocit across the air-sea interface over the ocean has been conventionall estimated using models parameteried in terms of wind speed (e.g., Liss & Merlivat, 1986; Wanninkhof, 1992). The breaking wave effects on the gas transfer into water, such as the aeration effect and the turbulent intensit (Melville, 1996), are included in wind speed parameters. Thus, we cannot appl the wind-speed-based model to the estimation of the gas transfer velocit in a near-shore wave breaking field, where waves break while propagating from offshore to near-shore shallow waters. In a surf one, plunging jets of breaking waves sequentiall splash on a forward water surface to entrain a number of air bubbles, and to produce three-dimensional vortices (Nadaoka et al., 1989), forming three-dimensional air-water turbulent flow. The entrained bubbles increase the total area of airsea interface per unit volume and enhance the gas dissolution into water. Watanabe et al. (28) measured the dissolved carbon dioide (D-CO 2 ) in breaking waves using a two-color laser induced fluorescence technique, and presented that the distributions of the entrained bubbles in breaking waves highl correlated with the D-CO 2 concentration, and the strong turbulence generated b the threedimensional vortices diffused the bubbles and D-CO 2 in a deeper water. Therefore, to develop an appropriate model to estimate the gas transfer velocit in a surf one, we need to characterie the gas dissolution in a surf one on the basis of the bubble transport process and the transition of the turbulent intensit in breaking waves. In this stud, we investigated the temporal variations in the cross-shore distribution of D-CO 2 concentration in a laborator wave flume using a glass electrode CO 2 meter to estimate the gas transfer velocit in a surf one. We also observed the bubble-water turbulent flow field in a surf one using Particle Image Velocimetr (PIV), and estimated the gas transfer velocit from the turbulent energ in breaking waves. EXPERIMENTAL SET UP AND CONDITIONS FOR D-CO2 MEASUREMENTS Eperiments were performed in a wave flume of 8. m in length,.6 m in depth and.25 m in width with transparent acrlic side walls, bottom and cover (see Figure 1). Waves were generated b a piston-tpe wave generator set up at one end of the wave flume. A hinge was set at the bottom under the wave paddle, and the flume was sloped using an oil jack fied under the bottom at the other end of the flume to create a 1 in 2 and 1 in 15 beach slope. A compressed CO 2 clinder was connected to the top cover of the flume to suppl CO 2 in the gas phase over the wave interfaces. The D-CO 2 concentration was measured from the wave breaking points to the shoreline at.3 m spacing with a glass electrode CO 2 meter (TOA-DKK CGP-1). The measurement times were 1, 2, 5, 1 and 15 minutes after the first-wave generation. The water surface elevation at each measurement point was measured with a capacitance-tpe wave gauge. The wave data acquisition frequenc was 5 H. Eperimental conditions are shown in Table 1, in which T is wave period, H b is the breaking wave height and h b is the breaking water depth. The wave breaking tpes were spilling breaker (Case 1, Case 2) and plunging breaker (Case 3, Case 4). The water depth in front of the wave generator was.25 1 Civil Engineering Research Institute for Cold Region, Hiragishi 1-3-1, Sapporo, 6 8628, Japan 2 School of Engineering, Hokkaido Universit, North 13 West 8, Sapporo, 6 8628, Japan 3 School of Engineering, Hokkaido Universit, North 13 West 8, Sapporo, 6 8628, Japan 1

2 Side view Wave generator CO2 Compressed CO2 clinder Oil jack Plane view Wave breaking point (B.P.) Hinge.25 m.25 m D-CO2 measurement :.3 m intervals from B.P. to shoreline 8. m Figure 1. Eperimental set up for D-CO2 measurements. Table 1. Eperimental conditions for D-CO2 measurements (T: wave period, H b: breaking wave height, h b: breaking water depth). CASE CASE 1 CASE 2 CASE 3 CASE 4 T (s) H b (cm) h b (cm) Bottom slope Breaker tpe 1.4 13.6 17.5 1 / 2 Spilling 1.9 14.5 15. 1 / 15 Plunging Media Freshwater Seawater Freshwater Seawater Side view Wave generator.25 m Slope: 1 / 2 Oil jack Plane view u v Bore Transition Plunging point = 15 cm = 7 cm = 4 cm Wave breaking point (B.P.) 16 cm Site3 Site2 Site1 8. m 16 cm Hinge.25 m Figure 2. Eperimental set up for PIV measurements. m in all cases. The flume was filled with freshwater (Case1, Case3) and seawater (Case2, Case4). In all the eperiments, the water temperature was observed to var within a ver narrow range (2 ±.5 C). EXPERIMENTAL SET UP AND CONDITIONS FOR VELOCITY MEASUREMENTS The velocit fields of bubbler-water turbulent flow under breaking waves were measured using Particle Image Velocimetr (PIV) on the horiontal plane and vertical plane crossing the beach in the center of the flume (see Figure 2). The measurements were performed in the same flume used in the D- CO2 measurements, which was filled with freshwater and was sloped 1 in 2. T, H b, h b, and the wave

3 Plane view Cross-section view 16 cm 25 cm 25c m 16 cm Clindrical lens FOV: 16 cm FOV Laser sheet High-speed video cameras Clindrical lens Laser sheet Argon laser (Wave length: 514.5 & 488 nm) Transparent acrlic bottom (For bubbles) (For water) High-speed video cameras (8 bit, 25 fps, 1 K 1 K piels) Figure 3. Location of high-speed video cameras and laser sheet for PIV measurements on the horiontal plane (: plane view, : cross-section view). Side view Laser sheet Cross-section view Laser sheet FOV 25 cm FOV Transparent acrlic bottom Clindrical lens High-speed video cameras Transparent acrlic bottom Clindrical lens Argon laser (Wave length: 514.5 & 488 nm) Argon laser (Wave length: 514.5 & 488 nm) Figure 4. Location of high-speed video cameras and laser sheet for PIV measurements on the vertical plane (: side view, : cross-section view). breaking tpe were 1.4 s, 13.6 cm, 17.5 cm and spilling breaker, respectivel. In the case of the measurements on the horiontal plane, an argon-laser sheet was horiontall emitted from the side of the flume. The water and bubble flows on the horiontal laser sheet were simultaneousl recorded using two 8-bit high-speed video cameras located under the bottom of the flume (see Figure 3). In the case of the measurement on the vertical plane, the laser sheet was verticall emitted from the bottom to the free surface, and the two cameras were located at the side of the flume (see Figure 4). The acquisition frequenc was 25 H, and the resolution of the camera was 124 124 piels. The field of view for each camera was 16 16 cm 2. The image acquisition sstem was triggered b a TTL signal

4 Wavelength range of low-pass optical filter Wavelength range of high-pass optical filter Intensit 488 514.5 53 58 65 Wavelength (nm) Spectrum of reflection light from bubbles Spectrum of fluorescent light Figure 5. Wavelength range of high-pass and low-pass optical filters. FOV Bubble Tracer Low-pass optical filter High-pass optical filter High-speed video cameras Linear projection Bubble image Tracer image Transformed to real coordinates Figure 6. Simultaneous image acquisition procedure for water and bubble flows using an optical filtering technique. generated when a wave gauge placed in front of the wave paddle detected the first wave. Another wave gauge was set at a measurement site to be triggered b the same signal as the image acquisition sstem. Simultaneous velocities and wave fields were obtained at the same site b the snchronied images and wave records. The wave data acquisition frequenc was 5 H. The water was seeded with fluorescent neutral buoant tracers of 5 11 µm in diameter. A highpass optical filter (a wavelength of 58 nm or shorter being filtered out) was attached on one camera

5 D-CO2 concentration (ppm) Plunging 4 3 2 1 Transition Bore.6 1.2 1.8 2.4 3. D-CO2 concentration (ppm) Plunging 4 3 2 1 Transition Bore.6 1.2 1.8 2.4 3. Figure 7. Temporal variations in the cross-shore distribution of D-CO2 concentration (: spilling breaker, CASE 1 (solid line, freshwater), CASE 2 (dotted line, seawater), : plunging breaker, CASE 3 (solid line, freshwater), CASE 4 (dotted line, seawater), red:, blue:, green: after the first wave generation). Gas transfer velocit (cm/s) Plunging.15.1.5 Transition Bore.6 1.2 1.8 2.4 3. Gas transfer velocit (cm/s) Plunging Transition.15.1.5 Bore.6 1.2 1.8 2.4 3. Figure 8. Temporal variations in the cross-shore distribution of gas transfer velocit (: spilling breaker, CASE 1 (solid line, freshwater), CASE 2 (dotted line, seawater), : plunging breaker, CASE 3 (solid line, freshwater), CASE 4 (dotted line, seawater), red:, blue:, green: after the first wave generation). lens to capture onl the laser-induced fluorescence lights at a peak wave length of 65 nm from the tracers, and to filter out reflection lights (a wavelength of 514.5 nm and 488 nm) from entrained bubbles (see Figure 5, Figure 6). A low-pass optical filter (a wavelength of about 53 nm or longer being filtered out) was also attached on the second camera lens to capture onl the reflection lights from the bubbles (a wavelength of 514.5 nm and 488 nm) and to filter out the fluorescent lights (see Figure 5, Figure 6). Image noise was reduced with a Gaussian digital filter. The coordinates of the captured images were transformed to the real coordinates using a linear projection (see Figure 6). The horiontal (in the direction of wave propagation), spanwise and vertical coordinates with the origin at the breaking point and side wall on a still water level were defined. The measurements were conducted at three sites: site 1 at a plunging point ( = 4 cm), site 2 in a transition ( = 7 cm) and site 3 in a bore ( = 15 cm). The water depths at the three sites were 15.5 cm, 14. cm and 1. cm, respectivel. Although bubbles can be opticall eliminated from images, the measurements could become inaccurate in highl aerated s due to changes in and obstructions to the optical paths. Therefore, in the PIV eperiments, the measurements were limited to non-aerated or diluted bubble flows beneath the wave trough level. A standard tpe of FFT based PIV technique was used. The window sie was 1 1 piels (17 17 mm 2 ) and the sie of interrogation was 18 18 piels (31 31 mm 2 ). The window was overlapped at 1 piels interval. RESULTS Figure 7 shows the temporal variations in the cross-shore distribution of D-CO 2 concentration. D-

6 Water Bubble Wave front Surface elevation (cm).34 t / T Wave front 3cm/s (c) 3cm/s (cm) (cm) (cm) (cm) Figure 9. Surface elevation and instantaneous velocities of water and bubble flows on the vertical plane after a breaking wave front has passed over site 2 (, (c): successive velocit vector plots from t / T =.34 to t / T =.343, red: water velocit, blue: bubble velocit). CO 2 concentration over the whole measurement increases with time, and the concentration in the bore becomes almost constant within after the first wave generation (green lines in Figure 7). Since the water depth in the bore is shallow, the bore reaches the saturated state of the gas dissolution earlier than the transition. In the plunging breaker, a number of entrained bubbles are produced beneath the plunging point of breaking waves to enhance the gas dissolution across the bubble-water interface. Therefore, the D-CO 2 concentration at the plunging in the plunging breaker is higher than that in the spilling breaker. The concentration in freshwater tends to be higher than that in seawater. Figure 8 shows the temporal variations in the cross-shore distribution of gas transfer velocit. In this stud, the gas transfer velocit at each D-CO 2 measurement point was estimated as shown below. Gas flu F can be epressed as following equation: F = U C where U is the gas transfer velocit (cm/s) and C is the difference of gas concentration across the sea surface (ppm). When we assume the above the wave trough level is saturated, C is given b: C = C s C f where C s is the saturated concentration (ppm), C f is the concentration under the wave trough level (ppm). Gas flu also can be given b: F = dc dt where is the turbulent miing depth in breaking waves (cm). In this stud, we assumed is approimatel equal to the wave height H (cm) at each D-CO 2 measurement point. From Eq. 1 to Eq. 3, the gas transfer velocit U is obtained with the following equation: dc H U = dt C s C f The gas transfer velocit indicates a high value within 1min after the first wave generation (red lines in Figure 8). Since the D-CO 2 concentration has not been saturated in short duration after the first (1) (2) (3) (4)

7 3cm/s 3cm/s (cm) Surface elevation (cm) (cm) (cm) (cm) Figure 1. Instantaneous velocities of water and bubble flows on the horiontal plane after a breaking wave front has passed over site2 (: = - 4 cm, wave trough level, : = - 12 cm, bottom level, t / T =.34, red: water velocit, blue: bubble velocit). k f (cm 2 /s 2 ) 8 4 (c) -4 8 9 1 11 12 8 9 1 11 12 8 9 1 11 12 t (s) t (s) t (s) 5 (d) (e) (f) 4 3 2 1 Site 1: Plunging Site 2: Transition Site 3: Bore k f (cm 2 /s 2 ) 8 9 1 11 128 9 1 11 12 8 9 1 11 12 t (s) t (s) t (s) Wave trough level, = - 4 cm Intermediate water depth, = - 8 cm Bottom level, = - 12 cm Figure 11. Surface elevation and spatial averaged fluid turbulent energ at site 1 (d), site 2 (e), site 3 (c) (f). wave generation, CO 2 can easil dissolve from the gas phase into water. Gas transfer velocit decreases with time and reaches almost constant value in the bore (green lines in figure 8). The gas transfer velocit in the transition is faster than that in the bore. In the transition, three-dimensional vorte structures organied b horiontal rollers and obliquel descending vortices are tpicall produced (Watanabe et al., 25). While the entrained bubbles trapped within the vortices are restrained to buoant over long time, CO 2 is supplied into water from the bubbles. Therefore, these vortices and bubbles significantl contribute to increased gas transfer velocit in the transition. The gas transfer velocit in freshwater is higher than that in seawater. Figure 9 shows the surface elevation and the instantaneous velocit distribution of water and bubble flows on a vertical plane after a breaking wave front has passed over site 2 (transition ). Since, at the breaking wave front, the water jet (red vectors) of a breaking wave plunges and splashes on a forward water surface, the velocities were unable to be estimated due to a high concentration of bubbles. Behind the breaking wave front, tpical upward water flow is distributed from the bottom to the water surface, and the upward bubble flow (blue vectors) is also observed to obliquel distribute in this. This bubble motion ma indicate a two-dimensional projection of obliquel descending vortices as described above. Figure 1 shows the instantaneous velocit vectors of water and bubble flows on the horiontal plane at = - 4cm (wave trough level), = - 12 cm (bottom level) after a breaking wave front has passed over site 2 (transition ). It is found that the entrained bubbles are involved in rotating flow generated b an obliquel descending vorte and are transported toward the shore. Since large bubbles

8 Plunging.15 Transition Bore Gas transfer velocit (cm/s) S.1 c =1 S c =15.5 S c =25.6 1.2 1.8 2.4 3. Figure 12. Temporal variations in the cross-shore distribution of gas transfer velocit obtained from Eq. 4 (solid lines) and Eq. 5 (filled circles) (red:, blue:, green: after the first wave generation). tend to quickl become buoant for a short duration, onl smaller bubbles can be transported to depths and drift over long time (see Figure1 ). Therefore, these smaller bubbles might contribute to enhance the D-CO 2 concentration in a deeper. Figure 11 shows the time series of the surface elevation and spatial averaged turbulent energ of water flow in all measurement sites. In the transition (site 2), the turbulent energ sometimes increases after the passage of breaking waves at = - 4 cm (wave trough level) due to the strong turbulent flow generated b obliquel descending vortices. On the other hand, this intermittent feature of the turbulent energ is found to be reduced in the plunging (site 1) and bore (site 3). In this stud, we tried to estimate gas transfer velocit from the turbulent energ in breaking waves U k (cm/s). U k was defined b: U = k S k c a (5) where k a (cm 2 /s 2 ) is the temporal and spatial averaged turbulent energ at the wave trough level and, S c is the Schmidt number. Figure 12 shows the temporal variations in the cross-shore distribution of the gas transfer velocit obtained from Eq. 4 (red, blue and green lines) and Eq. 5 (filled circles). The color lines in Figure 12 correspond to the solid color lines shown in Figure 8. It was found that the gas transfer velocit in a surf one can be roughl estimated from the turbulent energ in breaking waves and the Schmidt number. To develop an appropriate model of the gas transfer velocit in a surf one, the Schmidt number should be determined b some parameters including water temperature, gas dissolution from entrained bubbles, etc. CONCLUSIONS We measured the temporal variations in the cross-shore distribution of D-CO 2 concentration in a laborator wave flume using a glass electrode CO 2 meter, and also measured the air-water two-phase turbulent flow field in a surf one using a PIV sstem with an optical filtering technique. D-CO2 concentration increases with time and the bore reaches a saturated state earlier than the transition. The gas transfer velocit in the transition is much higher than that in the bore since the numerous entrained bubbles trapped within three-dimensional vortices significantl contribute to the gas dissolution into water. D-CO 2 concentration and the gas transfer velocit in freshwater tend to be higher than those in seawater. Since large entrained bubbles become buoant after a short duration, onl smaller bubbles can be transported to depths. These smaller bubbles might have a significant role to increase D-CO 2 concentration in the deeper area. The gas transfer velocit in a surf one was estimated from the spatial and temporal averaged turbulent energ in breaking waves and the Schmidt number. It was found that the gas transfer velocit could be roughl estimated from the turbulent energ and the Schmidt number. To develop an appropriate model for gas transfer velocit in

a near-shore breaking wave field, the Schmidt number should be determined b some parameters including water temperature, gas dissolution from entrained bubbles, etc. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Financial support for this stud was provided b JSPS Research Fellowships for Young Scientist 192425. REFERENCES Liss, P. S. and Merilvat, L. 1986. The role of air-sea echange in geochemical ccling, Air-sea gas echange: introduction and snthesis, Dordrecht: Reidel, 133-127. Melville, W. K. 1996. The role of surface-wave breaking in air-sea interaction, Annual Review of Fluid Mechanics, 28, 279-321. Nadaoka, K., Hino, M. and Koano, Y. 1989, Structure of the turbulent flow field under breaking waves in the surf one, Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 24, 359-387. Wanninkhof, R. 1992. Relationship between gas echange and wind speed over the ocean, Journal of Geophsical Research, 97, 7373-7381. Watanabe, Y., Otsuka, J. and Saruwatari, A. 28, Laser induced fluorescence measurements of carbon dioide dissolution in wave-breaking turbulence, Proceedings 31th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, 51-59. Watanabe, Y., H. Saeki. and R. J. Hosking, 25, Three-dimensional vorte structures under breaking waves, Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 545, 291-328. 9