Ice Climbing North American Championship 2018 and Great Lakes Mixed Comp March 17-18, 2018
About the Competition 2 Location 2 How to Reach Fenton 3 Airports 3 Driving 3 Shuttles 3 Detroit Airport 3 Peabody Ice Climbing and Fenton 3 Accommodation 4 Hotels 4 Rentals 4 Camping 4 Competition Details 4 Difficulty/Lead 5 Categories 5 Speed 5 Categories 6 Equipment 6 Speed 6 Lead/Difficulty 6 Rules & Regulations 6 Awards 7 Schedule 7 Mandatory Events 8 Packet Pick-Up 8 Athlete Meeting 8 Award Ceremony 8 Costs 8 Competitors 8 Spectators 9 Contacts 9 Event Information and Registration 9 1
I. About the Competition The Ice Climbing North American Championships are an International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA), USA Ice Climbing, and American Alpine Club (AAC) sanctioned event. The UIAA oversees the Ice Climbing World Cup series and the continental championships. The 2018 North American Championships are designed to accommodate/attract new-to-competition climbers in both the lead/difficulty and speed categories. The format for the lead/difficulty qualification is flash format, there will be a demonstration of the routes and competitors are not isolated from watching each other. There will be 2 qualification routes that are at an introductory level. If climbers have participated in drytooling or mixed climbing (inside or outside), they are invited to compete at the NA Championship; no competition experience is necessary. There will be warm-up/practice runs for the speed competition. Competitors age 12 and older are welcome to compete. The award categories will be Women, Men, U22 Women, U22 Men, U19 Women, U19 Men, U16 Women, U16 Men. Competitors age 16 to 21 may choose to compete in the adult category but will then have no ranking in their youth age category. Competitors should plan to arrive Friday afternoon or evening and depart late Sunday evening or on Monday. Spectators are welcome from 8am Saturday through midnight Sunday. There will be a party at Peabody Ice Climbing on Sunday evening. II. Location Peabody Ice Climbing https://www.peabodyiceclimbing.com/ 12326 FOLEY RD, FENTON, MI 48430 PHONE: 810-433-3304 2
III. How to Reach Fenton Airports Closest Major Airport: Detroit Metropolitan Wayne County Airport (1 hr drive) Alternative Airport: Bishop Airport in Flint, Michigan (25 min drive) Driving Peabody Ice Climbing is most easily reached from US Hwy 23. There is parking available at Peabody Ice Climbing. Shuttles Detroit Airport There will be 2 shuttles from the Detroit Airport to Peabody Ice Climbing on Friday and one on Saturday morning. Shuttles must be reserved ahead of time through USA Ice Climbing. There will be a shuttle from Peabody Ice Climbing to the Detroit Airport on Friday late evening. There will be multiple shuttles from the Fenton hotels to the Detroit Airport Monday. Exact times of the shuttles will be determined after the requests have been made and sorted. Roundtrip shuttles to and from the airport are $30/person Peabody Ice Climbing and Fenton There will be shuttles running to and from the recommended Fenton Hotels and Peabody Ice Climbing. A schedule will be announced before the competition weekend. 3
IV. Accommodation Hotels Fairfield Inn & Suites Flint Fenton 3125 West Silver Lake Road Fenton Michigan 48430 COMFORT INN & SUITES 17800 Silver Parkway, Fenton, MI, 48430, US Phone: (810) 714-7171 Fax: (810) 714-3402 There are no specific arrangements with any hotel at this time. Shuttles will be provided from the two hotels above to Peabody Ice Climbing. Rentals There are house and apartment rentals in and around Fenton. Shuttles will not be provided to or from rental properties. Camping If any competitors are interested in tent camping during the event this can be arranged for $10/person for the weekend. Potable water will be available. V. Competition Details Peabody Ice Climbing has 2 connected climbing towers that are 45 ft and 72 ft tall, and a third structure that is approximately 25 ft tall by 25 ft long with climbing (and plywood) on both sides. Ice can be created on any of the structures as desired by the route setters. The tallest tower will have north facing ice for the speed competition. There is a heated club house for relaxation of athletes and spectators. For isolation before semi-finals and finals we will use a large sauna building that has a bathroom. For warm-up during isolation the side of the 25 ft x 25 ft fall will be provided. 4
Difficulty/Lead The difficulty/lead will have 4 or 5 top rope routes. Competitors will climb the routes in a specific order. Competitors will have a time limit (~5 min) to climb a route, then a rest period of about the same time, then climb another route with the same time limit, and continue in this fashion for all routes. More details on the routes and times will be given at the athlete meeting on Saturday morning of the competition. Semi-finals and finals will be lead routes with the first draw pre-clipped. There will be snacks and drinks provided for competitors in isolation. If you have any major food allergies, please let the organizers know at the time of registration. Categories All competitors will do the same qualification routes. There will be semi-finals and finals categories for all of the below categories Men Women U22 Men U22 Women U18 Men U19 Women U16 Men U16 Women The top 18 in each category from qualification will compete in semi-finals. The top 8 in each of category will compete in finals. Competitors age 16 to 21 may choose to compete in the adult category but will then have no ranking in their youth age category. Speed The speed competition has the possibility to be double route head-to-head competition but it will depend on the weather and the condition of the ice. If necessary, the speed competition will be a single route. 5
Categories All competitors will do qualification together since it is not head-to-head. The fastest competitors in each category will move on to the category specific semi-finals. There will be semi-finals and finals categories for all of the below categories Women Men U22 Women U22 Men U19 Women U19 Men U16 Women U16 Men Competitors age 16 to 21 may choose to compete in the adult category but will then have no ranking in their youth age category. Equipment Speed 2 pairs of speed tools will be available for competitor use. These tools are for everyone to share, there is no reserving of the tools by competitors. Lead/Difficulty A few pairs of tools and mono-point crampons will be available for competitor use. Please contact the organizers ahead of time if you will need to borrow tools or crampons. Rules & Regulations The North American Championships are using the UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup rules and regulations with a few exceptions. The UIAA rules and regulations can be found at the bottom of the page here (http://www.theuiaa.org/ice-climbing/) 1. Heel crampons (not heel spurs) are allowed Some basic regulations that the organizers would like you to know: A. All competitors must wear pants, long sleeves, and gloves during competition B. Ice tools must fit inside a 25 x 50 cm box. 6
C. Competitors must wear UIAA approved helmet and harness. Most standard climbing harnesses and helmet have been certified to the UIAA standards. Awards Awards will be given for at least the top 3 men and women in lead and speed (total of 12 awards). Competitors must be present at the award ceremony to receive their award. VI. Schedule The tentative schedule is as below. Due to weather, ice conditions, time constraints, or other unforeseen reasons, the schedule may change. Competitors will be given as much advance notice as possible. The official schedule will be the one on the USA Ice Climbing website. Friday March 16 th 4pm 9pm Saturday March 17 th 8:30am 9:30am 10:30am 3:00pm 4:00pm 6:00pm 5:00pm to 9:00pm Packet Pick-Up (late packet pick-up can be arranged ahead of time) Athlete Meeting Route Previews Qualification Starts Qualification Ends Speed Practice & Qualification Start End of Speed Qualifications Athlete Dinner 7:00pm Speed Finals Start 9:00 pm Speed Finals End Sunday March 18th 8:30am 9:30am 9:45am 12:00pm 2:00pm 3:15pm 3:30pm 5:30pm Semi-Finals Athletes enter Isolation Route Preview Semi-Finals Start Semi-Finals End Finals Athletes enter Isolation Route Preview Finals Start Finals End 7
6:30pm 7:30pm Awards Ceremony Party VII. Mandatory Events Packet Pick-Up Competitors must pick-up their competition packets in-person at Peabody Ice Climbing between 4pm and 9pm on Thursday March 16th. You must have your photo ID to pick-up your packet. If a competitor can not arrive between 4pm and 9pm on the 16th, they can make arrangements with the organizers ahead of time by emailing info@usaiceclimbing.org. Athlete Meeting All competitors must be present at the athlete meeting on Saturday morning. Important information will be provided and this is the opportunity for competitors to ask questions of the judges and organizers. Award Ceremony All competitors are encouraged to stay for the award ceremony. To receive an award, you must be present. VIII. Costs Competitors The registration fee for the event is $75 USD if paid before February 20th, 2018. Registration after February 20th is $100 USD. Athletes will be able to register online until midnight March 15th and in-person between 4pm and 8pm on March 16th. Included in Registrations Fee Lead & Speed Registration Dinner Saturday Night Party Sunday Night Shuttles to and from Fenton 8
Round trip shuttles to and from the Detroit airport are $30/person. Detailed shuttle information is above in the shuttle section. Spectators There is no cost to spectate at the Ice Climbing North American Championships 2018. There will be an opportunity for a limited number of spectators to have dinner with the competitors from 6pm to 8pm on Saturday night for $20. First come first serve. Sunday night party!! Party in the heated event space at Peabody Ice Climbing with the competitors, organizers, and spectators. $20 gets you in the door and a free beer (if over 21). Additional information and details about food and beverages at the venue will be announced when available. IX. Contacts Event Information and Registration USA Ice Climbing https://www.usaiceclimbing.org/north-american-championships/ info@usaiceclimbing.org 9