CHO OYU COUNTRY: TIBET ALTITUDE: 8,201m PRICE: 13,000 DURATION: 44 DAYS Climb the 6 th highest peak in the world Gain views of Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam See the famous Nangpa-La pass Establish camps on the mountain, working closely with your expedition and Sherpa team Enjoy the comfort of our basecamp Learn the conduct on an 8,000m peak, as well as climbing techniques, glacier travel and medical procedures Get to know your expedition team and head Sherpa on our training courses GoPro footage included
INTRODUCTION Cho Oyu is the 6th highest peak in the world (8,201 meters), located on the border of Tibet and Nepal, 30 miles west of Everest. It is part of the Greater Himalaya, where the central Asia plateau meets the Indian subcontinent. While the challenge of high altitude climbing cannot be underestimated, Cho-Oyu has a reputation as one of the easier 8000m peaks. The comparative ease of access, lack of objective dangers and generally uncomplicated terrain mean that Cho-Oyu will be the perfect introduction to high-altitude Himalayan climbing, and a highly rewarding experience, whether as your one-and-only 8,000m peak, or your first step towards Everest. The route above base camp consist mainly of low-angled snow slopes with one short but very steep section to bypass a serac barrier at 6,400m. You use three camps on the mountain, located at 6,400m, 7,000m, and the highest camp at 7,400m. What we offer Even though the ascent to the summit plateau is short and direct, the climb is a serious undertaking and requires careful preparation and a high level of fitness. We offer you a fully guided ascent, led by UK guides and a strong Sherpa team, who assist with load carrying and camp preparation. Next to full support on the mountain, including a comfortable base camp and best equipment and tents, we also provide a full training plan to prepare you for your expedition. Our itinerary has extra days built in for two summit attempts and slow acclimatisation. To aid acclimatisation, we move up and down the mountain three to four times while establishing camps. Supplemental oxygen is used for the summit attempt.
INTRODUCTION What we offer Even though the ascent to the summit plateau is short and direct, the climb is a serious undertaking and requires careful preparation and a high level of fitness. We offer you a fully guided ascent, led by UK guides and a strong Sherpa team, who assist with load carrying and camp preparation. Next to full support on the mountain, including a comfortable base camp and best equipment and tents, we also provide a full training plan to prepare you for your expedition. Our itinerary has extra days built in for two summit attempts and slow acclimatisation. To aid acclimatisation, we move up and down the mountain three to four times while establishing camps. Supplemental oxygen is used for the summit attempt. Payment Plan We know that committing to this expedition is a massive decision, financially. We are offering a payment plan, which allows you to spread the cost over 20 months. Additionally, you will benefit from the substantial discounts we can offer for equipment needed for this expedition. To make things easier, our price also includes ATOL and ABDA protected flights booked through our flight operator Nomadic travels.
WEEK 1 The expedition will start in Kathmandu, Nepal. Here, we will finalise arrangements, organise our expedition kit and enjoy the local culture, before flying to Lhasa. From here, it is a three day drive across the Tibetan plateau to Cho Oyu Base Camp (16,400ft). The drive offers a great chance to encounter the harsh landscape and customs of the high plateau, as we visit monasteries and traditional Tibetan farm towns along the way and enjoy views of the surrounding peaks: Everest, Cho Oyu, and Shishapangma. WEEK 1 ITINERARY We meet the rest of the team in Tingri, where we stop overnight to help adjust to the altitude at 4,342m, before reaching base camp. The town itself is a dusty one-street hamlet surrounded by the tents of nomadic Tibetans. WEEK 1 The drive to Base camp early next morning follows a dirt road along the Ra Chu Valley and has spectacular views of the Himalaya. Once in base camp, we will meet our Yak drivers and their animals, and rest for a day to allow for packing and acclimatising. Yaks will then carry our loads to Advance Base Camp (5,600m) at the foot of the famous Nangpa-La pass, a historic trading route still used today to bring wood from the Khumbu forests of Nepal into Tibet.
WEEK 2-4 The next three or four days are spent establishing Advanced Base Camp and making short acclimatization forays to the lower reaches of the West Ridge. With the assistance of our Sherpa team, we will place Camp I (21,000 ft.) atop the West Ridge. Over the next ten days, we will establish Camp II (23,100 ft.) and Camp III (24,500 ft.). WEEK 2-4 ITINERARY We will repeatedly move up and down the mountain to enhance strong acclimatization and overall fitness. Once our last camp is set and the team has rested for a few days at Advanced Base Camp, we will begin the summit climb. Our summit attempt begins between midnight and 1 a.m. We will climb with supplemental oxygen on summit day. WEEK 2-4 From High Camp, we'll ascend the West Face through a rock band and up snow slopes of 25 to 40 to reach the West Ridge proper. This gentle ridge leads to the large summit plateau at approximately 26,000 ft. From there, we'll spend the next hour travelling across this plateau to reach the true summit and a spectacular 360 view which includes Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam and an array of Himalayan peaks. To the north lies the Tibetan plateau (the highest in the world), and to the south stand hundreds of Nepalese peaks. WEEK 2-4 After reaching the summit, our team will descend to Camp II. It takes approximately five days to clear the mountain and move equipment back to Base Camp. WEEK 5 Once we have arrived at Base Camp and said farewell to our Tibetan yak drivers, we'll begin our return to Kathmandu. After arriving in Kathmandu, we'll sort equipment and celebrate in the fascinating capital city before our international departures.
Operating on the Mountain Generally, our Expedition is run as a small group, and the plan and aim is to summit together as a team. We will be working as tent teams in pairs, helping each other kit-wise and giving psychological support. Upon arrival in base camp, the group will get a detailed introduction to how the expedition will be operated. There will be plenty of time for discussion and questions. Rest days, Acclimatisation and Training A combination of rest days, acclimatisation days and training whilst on the mountain will ensure that you are physically and mentally on best form to operate effectively in high altitude conditions, and finally attempt the summit push. During your rest days we encourage you to concentrate on recovering, eating and drinking, to relax, listen to music and stroll around visiting other teams. From our base camps along the mountain, we select suitable spots for training, where you familiarise yourself with and revise the techniques that you ll need to use higher on the mountain. Skills development is an essential part of our programme, starting as early as possible before your expedition. On our training days before and during the expedition, you will practice a long list of skills in different areas: climbing techniques, glacier travel, rope fixing, ascending, descending, safety techniques, rappels, belaying, medical equipment and procedures, using oxygen systems, communications equipment, camping techniques and high-altitude cooking. We also encourage you to try on your oxygen mask and get used to wearing it in combination with your goggles. Team leaders are constantly assessing the conditions on the mountain to ensure a safe ascent, and you will have the opportunity to learn about winter hazards and weather formation yourself. Acclimatisation will be achieved by climbing high and sleeping low, until everyone feels suitably adjusted to make the next move up to a higher camp. Finally, each climber will go back down to base camp for a prolonged rest, before moving up to occupy the higher camps, ready for the final push.
Our Sherpa Team Our Sherpa teams are essential to our safety on the mountain and the smooth operation of our expedition. Our Sherpas will ensure that all camp stores, food and oxygen are in the right place on the mountain at the right time. Makalu Sherpa is run by a team of very talented climbing Sherpas who are from the village of Neesha. They have a huge amount of experience and an exceptionally strong summit record. As you will be working very closely with our team of Sherpas, with a 1:1 Sherpa client ratio, we believe it is important for you to have the opportunity to meet your head Sherpa before your expedition. We are the only expedition company offering this relationship-building exercise on your training weekend. Safety Climbing an 8,000m peak is a serious undertaking with different dangers, difficulties and local weather patterns, which should not be underestimated. However, Cho Oyu is regarded as the easiest and safest of the 8,000m peaks. It has less avalanche and rock fall danger, fewer steep slopes and relatively easy access. Ropes are fixed along the best route to safeguard the climb. Your expedition leader will ensure that sensible timings are adhered to on the summit day reaching the summit late in the day would be a serious mistake. Whilst reaching the summit is our final aim, it will not be pursued to the detriment of safety. Ensuring safety on the mountain will always be our prime consideration. Equipment We aim to make sure that all the kit we use is to the highest standards. We are equipped with satellite telephones, the best oxygen bottles and apparatus available, high quality Marmot 4 high altitude tents and high altitude stoves, rock ice and snow anchors and full safety equipment. For our base camps, we have comfortable, heated dining tents with tables and chairs, where our cooks prepare fresh food and hot drinks at least 3 times a day. Let us know about any food intolerances or allergies in advance and we will do our best to accommodate them.
Altitude and Health Common health problems in the mountains are headaches, dehydration, stomach bugs, diarrhoea, sun burn and altitude sickness. Keep hydrated at all times, drink only boiled or treated water, cover up in the sun and eat every meal for energy. Acclimatisation is a process which allows the body to adapt to an environment with reduced oxygen. The best way to acclimatise is to ascend slowly or to ascend to a higher level for a while, then to descend. An ideal scenario will combine these two techniques. All our trips are designed with a focus on safe and sensible acclimatisation. Nevertheless the speed at which a body adapts varies from individual to individual. Expect changes to your body and habits to occur, including your muscles feeling tired more quickly, a change in your sleeping habits, increased gasping for breath, loss of appetite and generally requiring more energy to do basic things. Our guides are very experienced in identifying symptoms of altitude sickness and will always have alternative plans to aid further acclimatisation in the event that this may be required. Training Exped Adventure offers 3 training courses as preparation for the Cho Oyu expedition. We run a mountaineering skills course in Scotland, a fixed lines training course and a specific technical kit training course in the Lake District, all of which are included in the price and are run by the head guides of your expedition. One of the courses will also include a visit from the head Sherpa who will be working with you on the mountain. The courses ensure that you will use all of the kit and your expedition tents beforehand, so nothing will come as a surprise. The fixed line training will be run underground as a caving day, where all the equipment you will use on the mountain will be put to the test in more extreme conditions, so that everything will be second nature to you once you re at high altitude. The training days will also give you opportunity to get to know your team mates and tent partner. Additionally, we provide you with a personal training action plan, setting targets for your individual fitness training for Cho Oyu.
Experience required All climbers are required to have past high altitude mountaineering experience of 4,000-6,000m. Climbers who have been successful on Denali or comparable peaks are typically prepared to join a guided ascent on Cho-Oyu. In addition, members should be able to ascend and descend fixed lines independently and be proficient with cramponing on steep ice/snow slopes. For an increased chance of success, and in the best interest of personal safety and team compatibility, adequate training and excellent physical condition are required. Our training programme will help you gain any additional training or experience needed. You will learn different skills including retrieving anchors, abseiling, glacier rescue and avalanche awareness, and gain knowledge of altitude sickness, frostbite and the recognition of their symptoms, prevention and treatment. Prior to joining our expedition, please see your doctor and obtain the necessary permission and advice, as well as medications for travel in high altitude and exotic locales.
We offer a list of items for rental during the trip. We also offer substantial discounts on a range of these items if you order through Exped Adventure. Additionally, our clients receive a 15% discount at Cotswold Outdoor on all kit. Our equipment list will inform you about the function of each piece of equipment, and makes sure you are well equipped for your high altitude trip. Don t cut corners on the quality of your gear. Travel Items [ ] Duffel Bags: you need two duffels, one of which will be packed and sent directly to BC by way of truck and yak. Duffels are carried by porters and yaks and should be sturdy and waterproof with name written on bag (in case tag is lost). Bags with wheels are nice for the airport, but the porters and yaks don t like to carry them, so don t bring wheeled bags. You will also store some travel clothes at the hotel in Kathmandu while trekking, so a smaller additional bag with a lock might be handy. Drybags: Bring 5-8 differently sized drybags to protect gear from rain. [ ] Daypack: Large daypack, big enough to hold everything you ll need for an overnight stop. [ ] Locks: You ll want padlocks in Nepal and Tibet. [ ] Travel Wallet: Important for carrying your important documents including passport, extra photos, duffel inventory list, and money. [ ] Passport (valid for at least 6 months after the trip ends with sufficient extra pages for visa stamps and in same name as airline ticket. Get your Nepal visa on arrival in Kathmandu at the airport (and in Kodari on the return to Nepal). Scan your passport and also make a good quality hard copy of your passport and carry it separately. [ ] 2 additional passport photos for Nepal visas. Trekking Gear [ ] Trekking Poles: Poles come in handy for balance and easing impact to your knees. Get collapsible poles that can attach to your backpack. [ ] Backpacks: The "day pack" is great for a travel carry-on and may be big enough for the trek (need room for your clothes, water, camera, food, etc during the day while hiking) 50-60 liter size. For the international flights put your backpack into the duffle bags. [ ] Sleeping Bags: Rated to -10 Fahrenheit. Synthetic or Down. Base Camp/ABC can get down to around 0 F at night... so quite chilly. [ ] Thermarest pad to augment the closed cell pads we put in the tents above ABC. Footwear KIT LIST [ ] Lightweight Shoes: Running/tennis shoes and sandals for camp, around town, etc. [ ] Hiking Boots: Medium-weight hiking boots, waterproofed and broken-in. [ ] Gaiters: To keep snow, mud, and scree out of your hiking boots. [ ] Socks: 5 complete changes of socks, in a combination that you have used and know works for you. Make sure your boots are roomy enough for the sock combination you intend to use. Tight boots will make your feet cold. It is no problem to wash underwear, socks, etc at Base Camp!
Clothing [ ] Base Layer: 2 pair synthetic long johns: one midweight set and one expedition weight set. [ ] Mid Layers: One additional warm layer (wool sweater, another fleece jacket, shelled vest, etc, that can be worn in conjunction to the other layers). [ ] Shell Jacket: Waterproof/breathable jacket with hood. [ ] Shell Pants: Waterproof/breathable pants (full side zips are best). [ ] Climbing/Trekking Pants: Look for construction that provides freedom of movement and/or stretch materials. Fabric should be a breathable synthetic that preferably holds up to abrasion and dries quickly. You can wear them over longjohns if it is cold. [ ] Warm Parka: Down or synthetic. This should be big enough to go over other garments. Many climbers also like insulated pants for cold mornings and evenings at BC / ABC. [ ] Trekking Clothes: Light hiking pants and / or hiking shorts for warm weather down low -- NOT cotton. Shirts for hiking on nice days (t-shirts OK, quick-drying synthetic fabric far better.) [ ] Casual Clothes: For travel/meals in dining rooms. [ ] Bathing Suit: Some of the hotels have pools. Clothing Accessories [ ] Gloves: Light gloves for hiking and warm ski gloves. Bring mittens too if your hands tend to get cold. [ ] Hats: Warm wool or heavy fleece hat, sun hat and bandana. [ ] A "Buff" or light balaclava to breathe through in the cold dry air. Good for preventing "Khumbu cough" (which can occur in Tibet as well!). Camp Accessories [ ] Headlamp: With several sets of extra batteries, second "back up" headlamp (Beware of headlamps which do not accept lithium batteries). [ ] Water Bottles: 2 water bottles with foam insulation shells. Bring a Pee bottle too. [ ] Water Treatment: Iodine tablets (Potable Aqua or similar) or iodine crystals (Polar Pure). [ ] Camera: with spares. [ ] Pocket Knife. Personal Accessories [ ] Wrist Watch: With alarm and light for reading in the dark. We like the Suunto ones. [ ] Eyewear: Bring good sunglasses. For contact lens wearers, ski goggles with light color lenses (for use at night) might be useful in windy conditions that cause blowing dust. [ ] Skin Care: Maximum SPF sunscreen and lip balm. [ ] Personal Snack Food: Approximately 5 pounds of personal snacks, also some drink mixes if you like these (add drink mix to your water bottle after giving iodine tablets 30 minutes of contact time). Summit climbers should bring some extra high altitude snacks they know they will like to eat up high!
[ ] Basic First Aid and personal: Bring plenty of hand sanitizer (Purell). Also you'll want moleskin, tape, aspirin (many climbers take an 81mg aspirin every day to prevent stroke), ibuprofen / acetaminophen, Imodium and Pepto Bismol for diarrhea, Band-Aids, antacid, insect repellant, ear plugs, and several rolls of toilet paper (we will have a supply at Base Camp), small towel, soap/shampoo, a few disposable dust masks, hand cream (for chapped hands), [ ] Prescription Medications: 1) Antibiotic for upper respiratory problems (azithromycin) 2) Antibiotic for GI problems (Cipro or azithromycin); 3) Diamox (acetazolamide) for acclimatization (125 mg tabs recommended, enough for a week); 4) Sleeping pills for jet lag; 5) Tylenol 3 or similar for severe headaches; 6) Malaria Chemophrophylaxis, if needed based on travel plans; 7) Asthma medication, if any history (many climbers use Advair inhalers at high altitude to prevent Khumbu cough); 8) nifedipine (for pulmonary edema); and 9) dexamethasome (for cerebral edema). Chloroseptic or Tessalon Perles throat lozenges. [ ] Books/music. Plan on sharing among your team members. Bring a thumb drive for swapping photos. Climbing equipment [ ] Ice axe: We like a general purpose axe in the 60-70 cm range, depending upon your height and the type of climbing you anticipate. A wrist leash is useful for wearing while crossing snow bridges or on steep slopes where losing an axe would be a big problem. A spike with a point is preferable to a tubular shape (which can glance off the ice at certain angles). [ ] Crampons: The number one rule with crampons is that they need to be compatible and stay on your boots, period! Petzl Vasaks, BD Sabertooth, Grivel G12 are all reasonable choices. Make sure your crampon straps are long enough to go around your big boots [ ] Helmet [ ] Bowl, Cup, Spoon [ ] Climbing Harness: We prefer a harness with a minimum of padding that can be adjusted to fit over bulky clothing with leg loops that open up so you don't have to step into the harness. [ ] Ascender & Hardware: Two large locking carabiners, mechanical ascender with slings, rappel device (Figure 8 or ATC that will work on a variety of rope diameters from 7mm to 11mm), 4 extra 24" shoulder slings with 'biners. Bring 30 feet of 8mm accessory cord or ½ inch tape webbing to rig your ascender and safety sling (we will show you a good way to do this). [ ] Warm shelled mittens (down or similar insulated preferred). [ ] Plastic double boots and overboots or many climbers prefer the Millet Everest or the La Sportiva Olympus Mons boots which have an integrated gaiter. [ ] 1 pair of Glacier glasses, with a spare pair as backup. [ ] A "Buff" or light balaclava to breath through in the cold dry air [ ] Goggles (a second pair of light yellow or clear lens for nighttime is recommended) [ ] Small repair kit. We'll have a large repair kit at Base Camp with tools, etc. [ ] Good 1 liter thermos bottle [ ] Extra socks (you can hand wash socks and underwear at BC, no problem). [ ] Down pants that work with the down parka or a down suit. Summit day can be very cold! Many climbers also like insulated pants for cold mornings and evenings at BC / ABC.
WHY CHOOSE EXPED ADVENTURE Experienced and qualified guides Small group size Perfect safety record access to remote medical support and director trained as Wilderness Medical Technician Personal, tailored journey from enquiry to stepping out on the mountain, to the next adventure Itineraries have an emphasis on skills and personal development one of our main aims is to help people gain confidence in themselves and their abilities for further mountain adventures Well-researched, carefully selected route and itinerary Meet your head guide and head Sherpa on the training courses We provide a full training plan: three training courses and personal training plan included in the trip cost We offer a 20 months payment plan Get between 20-40% discount on expedition items Book ATOL and ABDA protected flights through our flight operator Nomadic travels Flexible and personalised approach we re always free for a coffee and a chat and go the extra mile to exceed your expectations