Sailing Manual April 2004 David Peer, Rear Commodore 2004
WHAT TO EXPECT ON YOUR COURSE Introduction Sail RA was founded in 1947 and began with a fleet of 6 Sabot Pram sailing dinghies. The Club operated from Dow s Lake until 1989 when we moved to our current home at the Ottawa New Edinburgh Club on the Ottawa River. The members run the Club. Volunteers provide training to new members, maintain and repair Club boats, docks and other materiel assets, organize social and racing programs and attend to a myriad of administrative activities. This allows Sail RA to offer affordable sailing, a social network and a variety of continuous learning opportunities to members. Everyone is encouraged to participate in the running of the club, in repair, maintenance, training, administration and/or organization of activities. Volunteers developed this Sailing Manual as a resource for new and returning members. There is information within the manual that will assist those interested in learning to sail and those interested in improving their sailing techniques and skills. Many useful references on learning to sail are available, the Canadian Yachting Association is an excellent source of references for sailors of all ability. Enjoy your sailing! Starting to Sail The Club offers a structured eight-week training program to members. The training provides basic theory and practical skills for novice sailors. Experienced returning members who have been certified as Skippers by the Club provide the training. The aim the Sail Training course is to show you what sailing has to offer and take you to a level where you can take club boats both Albacores and Lasers out for a sail whenever you want. By the time you reach the Sailing Skipper qualification you will have a basic knowledge of sailing and be able to handle a dinghy in light-to-moderate wind conditions. You could expect to reach our Sailing Skipper standard in a course offered by a sailing school in about five full days. We teach in the evenings over a number of weeks using volunteer instructors. This should help you set your expectations for the training and impress the importance of sailing at times other than your training night. Consolidation practice is possible on weekends and after the formal training period ends on evenings in the summer. As you demonstrate your ability to perform sailing techniques and skills and demonstrate an understanding of basic theory, you will be checked-out (certified) as Crew, Laser Skipper and Sailing Skipper. The requirements associated with each level of certification are described in the Training Manual. Once members achieve certification as Skippers in an Albacore or Laser, they are entitled to go sailing in the respective class of boat without supervision.
PREPARING YOURSELF It is important to prepare yourself for sailing. The Ottawa River can be cold and wet, but proper preparation can reduce any discomfort to a minimum. Sail RA recommends considering the following list of suggested clothing and gear for sailing in your preparation: 1) Running shoes with white or neutral coloured non-skid soles, sailing shoes, windsurfing or diving boots. Many members wear rubber boots in spring and fall when the water is cold. Always bring a change of shoes and socks - your feet will get wet! 2) A complete change of clothing (including undergarments) and a towel. Your clothing requirements will vary depending on the time of year and weather conditions. The wind can really remove heat from the body quickly normally, so plan your clothing accordingly. Like for many outdoor activities, you should dress in layers to better control your body temperature as conditions dictate. 3) Dress appropriately when rain is a possibility or a reality. You will also need rain gear in strong winds to protect from water spray. Specially designed clothing and gear is available from shops that specialize in sailing equipment. Outdoor gear, such as hiking gear is often an acceptable substitute. 4) Wool or synthetic fibres are recommended in cool or cold weather. Cotton will not hold heat. 5) Bring a windbreaker or light, long sleeved shirt for protection from the sun and wind. 6) Bring sunglasses with a tie cord on sunny or bright days. 7) Keep a supply of sunscreen and lip balm close by. 8) Consider wearing a hat to protect from the sun in the summer and preserves body heat in cool conditions (thirty percent of heat loss occurs from the head). Also, make sure it is securely tied on. 9) If you are planning to be out in the boat for over an hour bring a plastic bottle of drinking water. 7) Sailing gloves protect un-calloused hands. 8) Always use a tie cord for prescription glasses. You should also plan to leave the following items ashore: 1) Jewellery, bracelets and large earrings, all of which can get caught in sailing gear and lost overboard or result in injury. Avoid wearing expensive watches that are not waterproof. 2) Wallets, loose change and identification. 3) Keys, unless they are tied or clipped on to a belt loop or chain.
RIGGING To the non-sailor, a web of technical jargon surrounds the sport. Some of the words are widely used; others seem like they belong to Elizabethan England. You don t need a nautical dictionary before you step into a dinghy. At the beginning of your course, instructors will try to limit their use of technical terms. You have enough to learn without mastering a new language as well. As you progress through the course, you will pick up the names of different pieces of gear, rope and even manoeuvres. The jargon allows the helm and crew to pass precise information and to communicate ideas or intentions clearly. Have a look at the boat diagrams but don t try to memorize all the names. The important names will soon become familiar with use. The Hull The main part of the boat is the hull; everything else is attached to it. It is usually made of glass reinforced plastic (GRP or fibreglass) or wood. Some popular dinghies, such as the Pico now have polyethylene hulls. Boat Buoyancy Many different types of sailing dinghies are available; the more recent designs have built-in buoyancy as an integral part of the boat to make them unsinkable. Both our Lasers and Albacores fit this category. The buoyancy is provided by tanks at the bow and sides of an Albacore and by the space between the hull and the deck in a Laser. If water comes out of these areas when drain plugs are removed, this may indicate structural damage to the tank or hull. Tanks should be checked regularly. The amount of buoyancy in any dinghy is something decided by the designer and builder. The Albacores tend to float low in the water after capsize and on recovery are usually full of water. The Lasers have so much buoyancy that dry capsizes can occur regularly. Unfortunately, because they float high out of the water, it is difficult for some people to reach the centreboard from the water after capsizing. The Rig The mast is normally left standing in our Albacores and is supported by three wires, known collectively as the standing rigging. The wire to the front of the boat is the forestay and the wires to the sides are the shrouds. The standing rigging are attached are called chain plates on the hull. These comments do not apply to Lasers. Instead, the sail is sleeved onto the mast, and the mast is stepped into a hole in the deck and left free standing.
Sails Most dinghy sails are triangular. The sides and corners each have their own names. Sails are usually made of Dacron or other synthetic cloth and are specially cut to create the right aerodynamic shape. Sail Controls Sails will only work efficiently when set at a precise angle to the wind. A number of ropes and lines help control sail shape. Halyards raise sails and sheets control their angle to the wind. The outhaul adjusts the sail depth and the boom vang prevents sail twist. Together they help to maintain the correct sail shape. These ropes are known collectively as the running rigging. Boat Controls A centreboard or daggerboard is housed in the middle of the dinghy. When sailing, it is lowered to prevent the hull slipping sideways through the water. It needs to be adjusted for different point of sailing (see below). The rudder attached to the back (stern) of the boat is controlled by a tiller and steers the boat. Rigging the boat There are many different designs of sailing dinghy, your instructor will show you how to rig the Albacore and the Laser before you go sailing. Different dinghies may have their own peculiarities, but basically they all follow the same principles. Generally, rig from the bow to the stern (front to back). While you can begin rigging from the wet dock, sails should only be hoisted in the water with the boat pointing into the wind. The recommended Sail RA methods for rigging and unrigging Albacores and Lasers are in the Training Manual; they are reproduced in Annex A. Sail RA encourages rigging in the water with the centreboard down for stability. Never leave your dinghy unsupervised on the dock after the sails are hoisted. The chance of damage to the boat is high. If you must leave the dinghy in the water, lower the sails.
ROPEWORK Ropes are essential equipment for every sailing boat. Ropes attach, raise, and control the sails. They also secure the boat to a dock, mooring or trolley. This manual only includes those knots that are necessary and useful. To clarify the technical terms: Knots are generally made in one end of one rope; Bends join two different ropes together; Hitches secure a rope to another object (i.e. a ring or a post); A bight is a loop in a rope; The free or running part is the end of a rope; The standing part is the main part of a rope; Whippings finish the end of a rope to prevent unravelling. Whipping is being replaced by heat-sealing with the popularity of synthetic, heat-sensitive ropes; and Splices produce permanent eyes, joints and endings. Figure-of-eight knot This is a simple and useful stopper knot used to prevent the end of a rope running right through a block. The double figure-of-eight knot is sometimes necessary to make the stopper knot larger. You can double the figure-of-eight by another half-turn around the standing part before passing the free end through the bight Round turn and two half hitches This hitch is an easy method of securing a line to the ring of a buoy, or a post. Use this knot to tie a dinghy to a dock or mooring. It can be tied and untied when the standing part is under load. Bowline The bowline is a useful loop knot that will not slip if properly tied. It creates a temporary eye in the end of a rope. A bowline is very difficult to undo under load.
Securing a rope to cleats When securing a rope to a cleat, first take a complete turn around the cleat before making two or three crisscross turns over the horns. If you are securing a rope that will be in position for some time, and that should not have to be let go in a hurry, finish the last crisscross with a half hitch. If quick removal may be necessary replace the half hitch with another complete turn round the cleat. Sheet bend The sheet bend is used for joining two ropes of unequal size together. Make the loop in the thicker rope and then form the knot as shown in the diagram. It is stronger with an extra turn around the loop; this is known as a double sheet bend. Undo the bend by holding the ropes on both sides of the knot and pushing your hands towards each other. Fisherman s bend Clove hitch This bend is more correctly termed a hitch. It provides a more secure alternative to the round turn and two half hitches; the end is taken through the turns before the half hitches are made. It is much more difficult to release under load than the round turn and two half hitches because the round turn tightens on the first half hitch. This hitch is useful for securing a rope to a spar, or for attaching a burgee stick to its halyard. It can be difficult to undo when wet. It performs best when the tension is at right angles to the spar or rope. If the tension is in the direction of the spar a rolling hitch is better. Rolling Hitch The most secure way of attaching a rope to a spar or another rope (as long as both ropes will be under tension). When attaching your painter to a towing line behind the crash boat use this hitch; it won t slip. Common whipping
Lay a loop of twine along the rope then wind turns around tightly for about 20mm. Put the end through the loop, pull the protruding thread and cut oft the loose ends. Heat Sealing To prevent the ends of most modern ropes from fraying or unlaying melt the man-made fibres together with a hot- knife, gas flame or match. Eye splice Unlay about 100mm of the rope and make a temporary seizing. Form an eye and tuck the strands under the standing part in the order shown. The only tricky part is where the third strand is inserted turn the rope over to get it right. A minimum of three tucks at each strand is needed for security; the strands can be tapered before making further tucks to get a neat finish. Braided rope can also be spliced but specialized tools are required.
LAUNCHING AND RECOVERY General The majority of damage to sailing dinghies is caused during launch and recovery. Take care to ensure that the hull does not come into to contact with a beach. That means that at least one member of the crew must be prepared to get wet. Thorough preparation of the boat before launching is essential. Before launching it helps if the sails are bent on and the sheets led correctly without twists or tangles. All the gear should be checked before going near the water. In particular, ensure that buoyancy tank hatches and bungs are secure; that the anchor (if carried) heaving line, and paddle are present; that the bailer is attached; and that the rudder and tiller are ready to use. The following points about launch and recovery are worth remembering: Never step or jump into a boat on dry land or the wet dock. The pressure of your foot in the bottom of the boat not supported by water may be enough to make a hole. When launching from the wet dock ensure that the dock is wet to reduce friction with the hull. If a dinghy is full of water, it should only be returned to the dock after the water is removed. The water adds weight; this increases friction with the dock and can cause hull damage. If you beach a dinghy for a short break, carry it clear of the water if wave action could grind the hull against sand or stones. It you are leaving the boat, carry it out of the water; avoid dragging it. Try to support the hull ashore. Sailing away Having got the dinghy into the water, the technique of sailing away will vary according to the wind strength, its direction relative to the shore or dock and any waves it may produce. The extremes are when the wind is blowing directly onto the shore or dock and when it is blowing away. Each requires a different technique. The techniques can be adapted to suit other wind directions. Just remember that the bow of the dinghy should be pointing into the wind before the sails are hoisted. When a sail is pointing into the wind it flaps and produces no drive. If you try to hoist sails with the dinghy pointing away from the wind, the sails will fill and the boat will try to sail away, even if the boat is not yet in the water. With Lasers the technique is slightly different. Launch the boat with the sail hoisted but without the boom attached, so that it can flap freely. You can then attach the boom
and fit the rudder and daggerboard before setting off. It helps to have someone else to hold the bow into the wind. A buddy system works well for launching and rigging. Returning When the time comes to return, remember to let the sails flap to slowdown. If the wind is blowing onto the landing position you cannot simply sail straight in. The safest approach is to turn into the wind when still some distance away, drop the mainsail and then come in slowly under jib alone. Coming alongside a moored yacht, dock or pontoon Coming alongside and leaving a dock or pontoon is a relatively simple process as long as you take the wind and river current into account. The most important preliminary is to establish the direction of wind and current. Assess the effect of current by looking at boats swinging on moorings or looking at the flow of water past objects fixed to the River bottom. There are two basic techniques for approaching a dock of pontoon in the presence of current, depending on whether wind and current are in the same direction or in opposite directions. In either case, you must choose a route to or from the dock that takes into account current, the amount of sail set, and any hazards. Remember that light sailing dinghies will follow the wind not the current, except in light winds and strong current. Keelboats are much heavier and typically follow the current stream in both light and heavy wind.
Approaching a dock- wind and current together Assess the direction of the wind and the current Choose a close-hauled or close reach course to the dock Prepare the boat s painter Let the jib fly Ease the mainsail to reduce speed so that it stops with the bow on the dock or the alongside at the windward shroud Secure the painter line Lower the sails, raise the centreboard, and remove the rudder. Leaving a dock - wind and current together Assess direction of wind and current Prepare painter for slipping Hoist the sails, attach the rudder, and lower the centreboard Back the jib, slip the painter, and sail away. Approaching a dock wind and current in opposition Assess the direction of the wind and current Sail upwind of the dock. Turn head to wind, lower the mainsail, and raise the centreboard Prepare the boat s painter Sail back towards the dock under jib alone On reaching the dock, let the jib fly and secure the painter Lower the jib and remove the rudder Leaving a dock - wind and current in opposition Assess the direction of the wind and the current Hoist the jib and attach the rudder Slip the painter and sheet in the jib Sail to an area with plenty of room to manoeuvre and let the jib fly Push Helm hard away, come head to wind, and hoist the mainsail.
Leaving or approaching a dock wind across current If the wind is blowing across the current (i.e. at right angles), your approach should always be into the current. Just remember that in a dinghy when the sails are hoisted the wind is the stronger force and when they are dropped the current has more effect. This general rule applies when the forces are similar in strength. If the dock or pontoon lies parallel to the current and you are heading for or leaving from the leeward side of the dock, treat it as wind and current together and leave both sails up. If you have to sail for or leave from the windward side of the dock, treat it as wind and current opposed and use the jib only. If the dock or pontoon is perpendicular to the current you should always use the down-current side. Treat the manoeuvre as wind and current together and on an approach only lower the sails after the boat is secured to the dock. Making fast alongside Although with a lightweight dinghy you can make fast with just a bow and a stern line, the following method provides security for all sizes of craft. Normally four ropes are used to secure a boat alongside. The head rope is led from the bow well forward along the dock. Similarly, the stern rope is led aft from the stern. These are normally the first two ropes taken ashore, to locate the boat in her berth. Security is greatly improved by springs, which hold bow and stem in to the dock and prevent the boat from surging alongside. One spring is taken from the bow to a point aft. This is known as the forward spring because it stops the boat moving forward. The back spring or after spring is taken from the boat s stern to a point well forward and stops the boat moving backwards. Windward shore Launching from a windward shore The boat should be taken by trolley to the edge of the water and the sails hoisted with the boat head to wind. If the onshore waves are small or moderate, the boat can be
pushed into the water and floated off the trolley still head to wind. If the wind is not blowing directly off the shore, you might prefer to launch before hoisting the sails. In larger waves, the boat may rise with a wave then drop onto its trolley, damaging the hull. If there is any danger of this, the boat should be carried into the water (this may mean organizing a team of helpers). Leaving a beach with an offshore wind is straightforward. The crew holds the boat into the wind while the helm gets aboard and prepares the rudder and tiller and overhauls the mainsheet so that the mainsail can be freed right off. The crew pushes the bow off in the preferred direction and climbs in on the windward side of the boat, backing the jib if necessary (to help the dinghy bear away. When the water is deep enough the rudder is pulled right down and the centreboard adjusted to suit the point of sailing. The procedure for leaving a dock on a windward shore is similar, except that both helm and crew may board and rig the-boat, having first secured.the painter with a slipknot. When ready, the crew can push off from the dock, slip the painter and back the jib as before Returning to a windward shore Landing on a windward shore is again relatively simple, as long as one member of the crew is willing to get wet. Lee shore Pick a suitable spot. It you don t know the area and didn t take local advice about underwater hazards or rocks before launching look around carefully and try to assess where hazards are likely. Sail to a position where the landing site can be reached on a close reach, allowing for the extra leeway that will be made as the centreboard is raised as the water shallows. Sail towards the shore and ease sheets to slow down. Let fly the jib and raise centreboard and rudder as necessary. As you make the final approach, ease the mainsheet. The crew should be ready lo slip over the windward side at the right moment to hold the boat head to wind while the helm lowers and secures the sails, raises the centreboard fully and removes the rudder. Until you become familiar with a particular stretch of water a chance of running aground always exists. This is not usually a concern on our sailing area; however, if you run aground the first indication of trouble is a gradual slowing down
accompanied by a loss of steering. The natural reaction will be to raise the centreboard. This works if the wind is blowing off the shore, but on a lee shore the opposite is the case. The wind will simply blow the dinghy further ashore. If the water is fairly deep jump overboard, push the bow towards deeper water, lower the centreboard and sail away on a close-hauled course. If the water is shallow it is often best to abandon any hopes of sailing off. Lower the sails and paddle out into deeper water, then hoist the sails and sail away. The principal problem in shallow water is sailing without enough of the centreboard down. If possible, sail slowly away from the shore, gradually towering the centreboard as you go. Alternatively, throw the anchor and line as far as possible lo windward; then haul the boat to deeper water and repeat the process until the water is deep enough to lower the centreboard fully, then hoist the sails at anchor and sail off. As a general rule, prompt decisive action is necessary; indecision results in stranding. Then, the only way to get afloat is with a tow from a rescue boat Launching from a lee shore In strong winds and exposed beaches you need more help to launch from a lee shore. Substantial damage can be caused to the boat either by being dropped by a wave onto its trolley or onto the beach. Sufficient help to lift the boat from its trolley into deep water eliminates the risk, but help is not always available. If no help is available choose a favourable site such as the lee of a harbour wall or breakwater. You may be able to take advantage of a change in the shape of the shore where the wind is not blowing directly onshore. Assess the wave pattern to choose the best tack to leave the shore. It is far better to go through the waves at right angles than directly into them. Secure the bow of the boat to the trolley with only a round turn or a slipknot then wheel it bow first into the water. Float the boat on a suitable wave and pull it clear of the trolley as quickly as possible. Retrieve the trolley then, with the crew holding the boat head to wind in water deep enough to prevent the stern hitting ground in the wave troughs, the helm hoists the sails, attaches the rudder and lowers the centreboard as far as possible. The helm sheets in the mainsail as the crew pushes the bow in the right direction and climbs in on the windward side of the boat. When the boat reaches deeper water the crew lowers the centreboard and trims the jib while the helm lowers the rudder fully. Alternative methods to launch from a lee shore It may pay to row or paddle the boat off a lee shore, particularly if the dinghy can be rowed to a mooring or anchored before the sails are hoisted. Some clubs and sailing centres lines run lines ashore from buoys or anchors so that boats can be hauled clear of the shore before any sails are hoisted. This arrangement works well in areas of
strong currents or large tidal ranges; they also allow several boats to be left afloat for some time. Landing on a lee shore The easiest way to land on a lee shore is to turn the boat head to wind some way off shore, drop the mainsail and come in under jib alone The helm turns the boat into the wind The crew lowers the mainsail and raises the centreboard The helm bears away, salting under jib alone The helm lifts the rudder blade part way, or prepares to do so, if the beach is steep-to In shallow water, the crew lets the jib fly, jumps into the water, and turns the boat head to wind The helm lowers the jib and removes the rudder. With practice, an alterative manoeuvre under full sail is possible. The helm heads for the shore under full sail, rounds up at the last minute to allow the crew to jump out and hold the boat. The helm then lowers the mainsail, removes the rudder, and the lowers the jib. For obvious reasons, do not try this technique on unknown beaches. On exposed beaches with large waves neither of these techniques is possible because the danger of the boat being rolled over in the surf is too great. The only safe way to land is to sail straight for the shore at full speed, with centreboard up, crew weight right aft and the helm ready to raise the rudder blade at the last moment. This technique is common at some coastal clubs in parts of the UK. It relies on a large gang of helpers ready to lift the boat clear of the water immediately upon landing. Any landing technique that involves high speed is, however, more dangerous to the boat, the helm and the crew. Landing and re-launching on a lee shore If you want to land on a lee shore and then sail off again after a short break, the following variation may be useful. Success depends on knowing the
length of your anchor line and assessing distances accurately. Sail towards the lee shore, turn hard to wind and drop anchor Raise centreboard and remove rudder. In strong winds also lower sails at this stage Pay out the anchor line to allow the boat to drift towards shore until the crew can jump out. In lighter winds the sails should be lowered now; they are no longer needed to aid drift Depending on wave conditions, either carry the dinghy ashore or haul it off into slightly deeper water to avoid contact with the bottom and damage to the hull To sail away, simply haul on the anchor line until the dinghy is in deep water, hoist the sails, recover the anchor, and sail away. If you are blown aground on a lee shore unintentionally and cannot sail off again immediately lower your sails. Do not raise the centreboard because the boat will only be blown further on. To get afloat again, try rowing, paddling or kedging off. Moorings The procedure is very similar to coming alongside and leaving a dock or beach. The most important preliminary is to establish the direction of wind and current. On lakes or water with no current a boat left on a mooring will always point into the wind. This makes hoisting the mainsail easy before casting off. In current conditions, the boat may point into the current, the wind, or a combination of both. If wind and current are together, the boat will be pointing into the wind; however, bear in mind that when the mooring is slipped the boat will immediately start moving with the current. Therefore, your route clear of nearby moored boats needs to be well planned. If the dinghy is not lying head to wind (most likely in a strong current with an opposing light wind), first hoist the jib and then sail gently clear of the mooring under jib alone until you reach a clear space where you can turn into wind and hoist the mainsail. When returning to a mooring, first assess how similar boats are lying and then plan your approach and reverse the steps of the procedures outlined above for leaving mornings. To summarize for the situation when the wind and current are opposed, if the wind has greater influence on the dinghy, leave or pick up a mooring with both sails. If the current has greater influence on the dinghy, leave or return under jib alone. Most importantly, always plan an escape route in case your first attempt fails. Making fast to buoys Unless your dinghy is kept on a mooring, you will likely only secure to a mooring buoy temporarily. A purist would make the painter fast to the mooring with a round turn and two half hitches through the ring on the mooring buoy or through the mooring strop secured to the chain riser underneath the buoy. The practical sailor passes the painter through the ring or strop to secure it around the heel of the mast. This is just as effective and makes leaving the mooring much easier.
SAILING TECHNIQUES Familiarity with the sailing techniques discussed in this section are important in developing the more advanced skills described in the Sections on Sailing Manoeuvres and Advanced Sailing Techniques. Sail RA has developed a short crib sheet as a memory tool to use on the water as you learn the basic techniques. The crib sheet is in Annex B; it can be photocopied and glued to either side of cardboard and protected from water in a Ziploc bag or covered in plastic. Where is the Wind? The wind is the source of motive power when sailing. It has an influence on everything afloat, even where to sit in the boat. The helm sits back to the wind, the tiller held lightly in the hand nearest the stern, and the mainsheet in the forward hand. The crew sits further forward, adjusting position to balance the boat. The first indications of wind direction will be indications on your neck or ear, or from flags or smoke. Ripples will show on the water surface as the wind blows over it, and gusts can be spotted as the surface darkens. Sail power is derived from wind, but there is a limit where any sail will not work. When a sail is pointing directly into the wind, it will simply flap. To drive the boat with the sails they must be kept at the correct angle to the wind. This basic principle influences everything on the water. When a sail is flapping it produces no driving force just drag. As dinghies have no brakes, the only way to stop is drag from the sails. If the boat is not directly into the wind let them flap by letting the sheets out. The standing rigging may prevent the sails from going right out, in which case turn the boat more towards the wind. Basic Hove-To Position Letting the tiller go when the sails flap causes the boat to come to rest sitting quietly in the water. The boat will sit almost at right angles to the wind quite happily. It is a safety position often called the basic hove-to or lying-to position. Use it as a starting point for exercises, as a chance for a rest, to change over crew, or for the instructor to explain a particular manoeuvre. From this position experiment with the effect of the sails by pulling in one sail or the other, you will cause the bow to turn into or away from the wind. Experiment with boat balance; heeling (leaning) the boat one way or another will affect steering. Finally, raise the centreboard and see how the boat will skid across the water. This effect is called leeway.
No-Go Zone When sailing closer to the wind, the sails need to be pulled in harder. Eventually the boat reaches the stage where even though the sails are pulled in tight, they still flap or luff. This is the limit of windward sailing, the edge of the No-Go zone. It is impossible to sail in the No-Go zone. Tacking If a windward objective in the No-Go zone is the goal, it will be necessary to zigzag up towards it, changing direction each time by tacking. Remember, the boat cannot sail directly into the wind, only up to the edge of the No-Go zone.. Once you master the technique of tacking, you have the basic knowledge required to sail off, turn round and return. In early tacking practice it s common to get stuck halfway through the manoeuvre, with the boat stationary and head to wind, or in irons. Don t worry, simply remember the routine of push, push - that is, push the tiller and the boom away from you and wait. The boat will slowly start sailing backwards and turn away from the wind. Then reverse the routine with pull, pull on the tiller and mainsheet and you re off sailing again. In Albacores, it is often easier to push out the jib instead. The boat will turn away or pivot from the wind with little or no backward movement. The recommended tacking routine for helm and crew in an Albacore is described below. The routine is similar for Lasers. Tacking Routine Crew Affirmative response to Ready about Face forward Release the jib when it starts flapping Move to other side as the sail crosses the centreline Watch your head as the boom moves across the boat Sheet in the jib Helm Face forward and use a dagger grip Keep your aft foot forward Check that the area is clear Ready about helm Affirmative response to Ready about crew Helm s a lee! Move body and tiller Tug on the sheet as the boom crosses the centreline (Laser only) Steer behind your back Sit Bring the hand with the mainsheet to the tiller and change hands
Gybing Gybing is the final new sailing technique to learn. So far, you have changed direction by turning into the wind. The alternative is to turn further and further away from the wind, until it crosses the stem of the boat. The important thing to remember is that, unlike tacking when the boat passes through a point of stability, there is always drive in the mainsail when the boat is being gybed. The recommended gybing routine for helm and crew in an Albacore is described below. The routine is similar for Lasers: Gybing Routine Crew Affirmative response to Stand by to gybe Check that the centreboard is partly down Move to centre of boat and face forward Pull main over with the boom vang as stern passes through the wind Watch your head as the boom moves across the boat Release the jib Move to other side to balance the boat Sheet in the jib on the other side Helm Face forward and use a dagger grip Bring the boom off the shroud with the mainsheet. Keep your aft foot forward Check that the area is clear Stand by to gybe helm. To avoid confusion with tacking use Stand by to gybe instead of Ready to gybe. Affirmative response to Stand by to gybe Gybe Oh! Then move to middle of the boat. Tug on the sheet as the boom crosses the centreline (Laser only) Steer behind your back Move to the other side and sit Bring the hand with the mainsheet to the tiller and change hands
Basic boat control (the five essentials) The key factors in basic boat control are embodied in the five essentials. The five essentials contribute to the efficiency of a sailing dinghy s progress. Every time you change course, run through the essentials to get them right. Boat Balance Although you may have seen photos of dinghies heeled over until the water almost comes in over the side, that s not the way to sail. Dinghies sail most efficiently upright; and that is a principal task of the helm and crew. If a boat heels away from the wind, it will tend to turn into the wind or luff. If the boat is heeled towards the wind, it will tend to turn downwind or bear away. In either case some rudder movement will be needed to maintain a straight course, and any unnecessary rudder movement slows the boat down. The helm should sit on the windward side of the boat, the position to windward provides better visibility and control, so it falls to the crew to do most of the work to balance the boat. When there is little heeling force, such as in light winds or when sailing downwind, the crew will sit on the lee side (the opposite side to the helm). In stronger winds when there is more heeling force, the crew will need to sit out on the windward side. Trim - fore and aft The distribution of crew weight fore and aft is just as important as balancing the boat. The best way to learn the technique for proper trim is to practise shifting weight towards the wind. In other words, move forward in the boat when sailing to windward and move aft when sailing downwind. By moving forward, the bow is well in the water and cuts through waves and the stern sections are clear of the water. It reduces the wetted surface area of the hull and consequently friction. Shifting weight aft going downwind lifts the bow preventing it from digging into waves and immerses the flatter aft sections of the hull giving more stability to the boat. This also helps to promote planing in strong winds, when the boat lifts onto its own bow wave and speed increases dramatically. Sail setting A sail produces its maximum power when at only one, optimum angle to the wind. That angle is quite critical. The best results come from practice. There is a simple method to find that critical angle. Any sail whether jib, mainsail or spinnaker, will set best when let out until it starts to flap or luff gently along the leading edge, then pulled in just enough to stop the luffing.
Remember that the correct position of the sails is at a certain angle to the wind, not to the boat. Each time the boat changes direction, the sails must be sheeted in or out to maintain that optimum angle to the wind. When you turn towards the wind you must pull the sheets in or the sails will luff. If you forget the flapping sail will remind you. When you bear away, ease or let out the sheets. Forgetting to ease sheets on bearing away is the most common mistake of newcomers. There is often no immediate sign to remind you of the error other than the boat slowing down (the sails stall and lose power) or excessive heel. Centreboard The action of the wind on the sails, as well as driving a dinghy forward, will push it sideways across the water -this effect is known as leeway. To prevent leeway, a dinghy uses a centreboard or daggerboard to get a better grip on the water. The difference between a centreboard and daggerboard is simple: a centreboard pivots around a bolt in the centreboard case; a daggerboard moves vertically up and down the case. Some older dinghies have a metal centreboard, and sailors may use the term centreplate. Regardless of the name, they all do the same job. A boat mates most leeway when sailing close hauled, so when close-hauled the centreboard should be fully down. When sailing directly away from the wind there is no leeway and so the board can be raised, though a small amount of centreboard makes the boat easier to steer. In between, when sailing across the wind, the board should be half down. You can mark either the board or the case as a guide, but as you gain more experience the correct position becomes easier to determine for different conditions. Even with the board right down, a dinghy will still make some leeway when sailing closehauled, particularly in waves. Accept this fact and plan your steering accordingly; your ultimate destination will be slightly downwind of where the boat is pointing. Course made good Course made good is the actual course the dinghy travels over the ground. The direction you steer the boat through the water, the leeway through the water and any water current combine to give the course made good. The course made good when sailing an offwind course in a steady breeze on a deep, currentfree lake, will be a straight line from start to finish; however, in most other conditions the best way of getting from A to B is not so simple. Sailing upwind, for example, you have to accept and allow for leeway. In addition, if you have to make a
number of tacks lo reach your destination you ll need to decide where the best place to make them. In theory, there is an almost infinite choice of routes to an upwind destination. In practice, it pays to stay in a 20 degree cone from your ultimate destination to minimise the effect of wind shifts. That approach may not be sufficient is you are sailing in a strong current. Any upwind route would also have to consider the benefit of staying in or out of strong current. You will soon get used to looking at fixed objects - posts or mooring buoys - to see the strength and direction of the current in order to take advantage of it. As an example, if you have to cross the River during the spring run off, it will carry you downstream. If you aim at your objective without accounting for the current, the dinghy will soon be swept well downstream of your desired course. Instead, aim upstream and use some boat speed to counter the effect of the current; you will eventually reach your destination. Make use of transits on the riverbank to check your progress. Pick two conspicuous and fixed objects on the bank, one behind the other in the direction of your ultimate destination. By keeping them in the same position relative to each other, the dinghy sails along a fixed line and crosses the current stream with a minimum of fuss. With practise any feature on the shore can be used as a transit. If, on the way across the river you encounter buoys or moored boats allow for current sweeping you down on them. It is always better lo pass down current of obstructions any doubt exists about the dinghy s ability to get past them.
SAILING MANOEUVRES The manoeuvres in this section are important for those wanting a well-rounded ability to handle most challenges on the water under sail. They are important skills to learn but they depend on competence with the basic sailing techniques. The manoeuvres presented are organised with the most important at the beginning. Man Overboard Recovery It may never happen, but if the helms or crew fall over the side, the remaining crewmember must sail the boat back alone to pick up the man overboard (MOB). Quite apart from the practical need for a man overboard drill; the manoeuvre also represents the conclusion of basic boat handling techniques. MOB recovery demonstrates the ability to sail back to a certain spot in the water and stop. Whatever point of sailing you are on, come onto a beam reach and sail a safe distance away, or until you have control of the boat. Keep the MOB in sight all the time. Tack and return, sailing slightly downwind of the person in the water so that your final approach is on a close reach. Letting sails flap or draw as necessary helps control boat speed. Aim to stop with the MOB at the weather shroud. Place the boat in a stable position by releasing the mainsheet. This also moves the boom and mainsail out of the way. Then walk forward to the shroud and help the MOB into the boat. Don t try to pull anyone in over the stern of the boat. You may find the boat sailing away from the MOB. After recovery, if the person is cold and wet return to the club for a change of clothes. Remember: Keep the MOB in sight Don t tack too soon Don t approach too fast.
Every Sailing Skipper should master Man Overboard (MOB) recovery. The basic principles are: regain control of the boat sail off on a beam reach, letting the jib fly try to keep an eye on the person in the water (the MOB should have a buoyancy aid on and hold up a hand and shout to keep in touch when you are under control and a suitable distance away, tack onto a reciprocal course. The distance will vary according to the weather conditions, but it should be just far enough to complete the manoeuvre safely as you get closer, sail tightly downwind so that your final approach can be on a close reach, allowing you to control your speed stop with the person at the weather shroud as you move forward to help him, flick the tiller to windward and position yourself just behind the weather shroud. That flick stops the boat inadvertently tacking on top of the MOB during he retrieval. The most difficult part of the manoeuvre is judgement of boat speed on your final approach. Practise it often. If it happens for real, the most difficult part may then be getting the MOB back aboard; try rocking the boat to dip the gunwale. Don t try recovery over the transom; the boat will bear away and begin to sail off out of control. The tiller is easily damaged and the transom can be very uncomfortable with lots of sharp-edged gadgets. As a last resort, you might have to capsize deliberately to scoop the person back aboard. Finally, if a MOB happens for real you might have to right the dinghy anyway, since the sudden loss of crew weight may cause a capsize. At least in this case you probably won t have a MOB recovery to worry about, unless the person is injured. The MOB should be able to swim to the capsized dinghy. Heaving to Lying-to is a safety position that has the dinghy with sheets free and the tiller released. It has the disadvantage that both sails are flapping noisily and the boat is drifting quickly downwind. The similar, but more controlled, hove-to position has the jib backed, the tiller secured to leeward and the centreboard partially raised. The easiest way of getting into this position is to tack leaving the jib sheet cleated and then push the tiller to leeward. The backed jib tries to make the boat bear away but as soon as it picks up any speed the rudder heads it up again. When hove-to a dinghy will remain almost at a constant angle to the wind, forereaching gently. Strictly speaking a dinghy is underway and making way when hove-to and the Rules of the Road apply. Therefore, it makes a lot of sense to heave to on starboard tack whenever possible unless heaving to on starboard will not take you away from the nearest danger.
Towing A sailing dinghy being towed should have: The sails lowered, The centreboard raised, and The crew weight aft. Otherwise, the dinghy will shear from side to side behind the towing vessel. In a normal tow, the line should always be led to the bow of the dinghy being towed and attached to a suitable strong point. A couple of turns around the mast with a half hitch are usually sufficient. Passing a towline In calm weather boats can simply lie alongside each other when the tow rope is passed across. If you have to tow one sailing dinghy with another in stronger winds, sail across the bow of the dinghy being towed on a close-hauled course from the leeward quarter, passing the towline as you go. Sheets can be eased when the towline is made fast. Then bear away onto a reach to pick up speed. When a motorboat passes a line before towing a sailing boat, the line should be thrown from upwind of the dinghy. Securing a towline The strain of the towline must be transmitted over the whole boat and not an individual fitting, unless that fitting has been specifically designed for the purpose. Otherwise, use the mast or a thwart. Take a turn around the mast or thwart to take the strain off the end of the rope. It prevents damage and injury and makes it easier for to secure the towline. The towing vessel should take up the strain slowly to avoid damage cause by a shock load on the towline. Good communication between is vital for a successful tow; work out a simple set of signals. Methods of towing The difficulty with towing one sailing dinghy with another comes when you want to change direction, particularly when the goal is upwind. The longer the towline, the easier it is to tack without being stopped short by the snatch on the line as the towed boat changes course behind. When lowing in a strong current, make extra allowance for drift of the towed vessel when manoeuvring around buoys or other obstructions. When towing with a powered craft, sometimes towing alongside is preferable to the conventional astern tow, particularly if the dinghy is waterlogged or much larger than the towing vessel. To set up a tow alongside, three lines are usually needed: a bow rope, a stern rope and a back spring led from the bow of the towing vessel to the stern of the towed vessel. Make sure that the towed vessel s stern is well ahead of the stem of the towing boat, or manoeuvring will be very difficult.
Anchoring When towing in line, the last dinghy should be the only one with the rudder in position. This method is very undesirable because all the strain of the tow is taken on the first boat. A Herringbone tow is mush better. Boats are secured at intervals on either side of a main towline. Sail RA uses this method. Boats wishing to take a tow simply secure to the line with their own painters using a rolling hitch. The important practical differences between the Herringbone and a towline is that all the boats in the Herringbone must be steered and the painters are best led straight from the mast - not through a bow fairlead. When splitting a herringbone tow, the towing vessel holds station head to wind. This allows each dinghy crew to hoist their sails and leave the tow at will. If the spacing between adjacent dinghies is not generous, it may be safer for the last boat in the tow lo cast off first, and proceed up the towline to the towing vessel. Although there are several different types of anchor, the types most often used are the CQR (plough anchor) or the Danforth. The differences in design cater for different bottoms or stowage requirements. The plough anchor is often found on a bow roller of a keelboat. Danforth anchors stow flat. For an anchor to be truly effective it needs a short length of chain. The weight ensures that the pull from the anchor line on the anchor is nearly horizontal helping the anchor to dig into the bottom. Also, chain protects the line from chafe from the bottom. The anchor line attached to the chain must be strong enough lo hold the weight of the dinghy and long enough lo suit the depth of water in the sailing area. The rule of thumb to get an efficient pull on the anchor is to pay out anchor line equal to five times the depth of water. The bitter end of the line should be attached lo the boat at a suitable strong point, the heel of the mast is a good choice. The anchor may be needed quickly, so stow it in such a way that the anchor line runs out freely. Two good options are to coil it in a bucket or on a drum. Although the bitter end of the anchor line is firmly secured at the mast, you may want to ensure that the warp runs out over the bow of the dinghy when lying at anchor. If your boat does not have a bow fairlead, you can improvise with a loop of line tied lo the stemhead fitting. Selecting an anchorage When choosing a spot to anchor, consider the following: Are there any underwater obstructions? Will your anchor hold? What is the depth of water? How crowded is the anchorage Will you swing into other boats?
What is the expected tidal range and current? Methods of anchoring Just as for picking up a mooring, you must take wind and current into account when anchoring. Sailing dinghies tend to be more susceptible to wind rather than current, except in strong current and light wind. When wind and current are in similar directions: Approach the chosen site on a close reach Prepare the anchor and leading the anchor line forward under the jibsheet and through the bow fairlead Slow down by easing sheets to stop upwind and upcurrent of where you want to lie When the boat has stopped, let the anchor go as the boat starts to drift backwards, then pay out the anchor line smoothly When enough line has been run out, secure it and check that the anchor is holding by reference to stationary objects (i.e. take a transit) Raise the centreboard and lower the sails When the wind and current are opposed, and the current is much stronger than the wind: Choose your site and sail upwind from it Prepare the anchor and line Sail head to wind and lower your mainsail Sail downwind under jib alone Ease the jib as you approach the chosen spot Let the jib fly and lower the anchor Pay out line, then secure it and check that anchor is holding Lower the jib. Clearing a fouled anchor The most common reason for fouling an anchor is hooking a chain, cable, or other object on the bottom. The anchor could also be fouled on a rock. The way to clear a fouled anchor is to pull on the anchor from a different angle. If you cannot clear it by pulling on the line from a different direction, try dropping another line down to the anchor itself. Do this by tying a loop of line around your anchor line, weighted with something suitable and allow it to drop
down the line to the anchor. Then take the strain on this trip line rather than on the anchor line and try sailing around the anchor pulling on the trip line. Reefing Reefing is technique of setting the right amount of sail for the weather conditions. At Sail RA only Lasers can be reefed. It is always better to predict the amount of sail needed and reef ashore before setting out. It is a lot easier. However, if you need to reef afloat the first step is to pick a suitable place. If a mooring is available it makes the whole operation easier. Otherwise, make sure that you have plenty of room to leeward so that the boat doesn t drift ashore or into danger while you are reefing. The goal when reefing is a sail reduced by the required amount that still has an efficient shape and no wrinkles. The boom should be level and the vang should still be effective. Lasers are reefed by rolling the sail around the mast. First sail to a close reach position free the Cunningham and remove the boom vang. Next ensure you have a figure of eight or stopper knot in the end of the clew outhaul and then ease the clew outhaul completely and take the boom off the gooseneck. Rotate the mast in its step to roll the sail up. You can only reef as far as the top batten (unless you previously capsized the boat to remove it) or to the limit of the clew outhaul line. Having rolled up the sail, replace the boom on the gooseneck and the vang on the boom, tighten the Cunningham, outhaul and vang, and sail away.
ADVANCED SAILING TECHNIQUES This section amplifies the most important basic sailing techniques summarized earlier sail setting, boat balance, fore and aft trim, centreboard position and course made good. These advanced techniques will help you learn to sail to best advantage. Your skill level is easily determined by sailing a circular course. A short explanation follows the discussion on sailing techniques. As your skill develops you may find it useful to know how to sail backwards. This manoeuvre is not taught at Sail RA, but many of our more experienced sailors can use the technique. A short explanation of the manoeuvre is provided to help anyone practicing the manoeuvre. The section also introduces spinnakers. Spinnakers are not fitted on dinghies at Sail RA; however, you may encounter them if you sail elsewhere. Sail setting Every sail, whether mainsail, jib or spinnaker will set best when eased until it just starts to flap along the luff and then pulled in just enough to stop the flapping. At this point there is an even flow of air across both sides of the sail. As an aid to sail trim, the flow can easily be monitored by the use of telltales; lengths of wool or nylon strips sewn into jib or mainsail luffs and onto mainsail leeches At the first level of their use, telltales give a clear indication of whether the airflow at that point on the sail is smooth or stalled. They are most commonly seen on jib luffs and used as shown in the diagram. At another level of use, jib luff telltales will indicate whether the sheeting angle is correct. If it is, all of the telltales will respond to a change in unison. If the sheeting angle is too far aft, the top telltale will lift before the others and conversely if the sheeting angle is too far forward, the bottom telltale will lift first. Similarly, mainsail leech telltales indicate whether the sail is over sheeted and if sail twist is right for the conditions. When the sail is set properly, all the telltales stream together. If the leech is too twisted the top telltale win stall first and vice versa. Vang adjustments control the twist. Boat balance Dinghies sail fastest when they are upright, but advanced sailing skills need to move beyond that simple truth. Exception to the rule is in very light winds, when some heel may help.
Heel reduces the wetted surface area of the hull and friction, the predominant drag component at slower speeds. It also allows gravity to help the sail to take up its designed shape creating an efficient aerofoil for what little wind there is, even a heeled rig presents less effective sail area. Use boat balance to make your manoeuvres smoother. In particular, heeling the boat to windward in stronger winds makes bearing away look simple. The manoeuvre is almost impossible in a dinghy heeled lo leeward. Active use of body weight is the key to boat balance. Fore and aft trim Advanced techniques move beyond just keeping the boat flat to active use of body weight to optimize sailing performance. Sailing to windward, crew weight should be concentrated forward in all conditions. In light weather, weight forward also reduces wetted surface area and drag. In stronger winds, weight forward promotes bow immersion and prevents the bow being knocked off to leeward by waves, decreasing leeway. Offwind, crew weight is moved progressively aft depending on hull shape, wind direction and strength. The stronger and freer the wind, the further aft you sit. Most dinghy hulls are designed with flat aft sections for planing in moderate or strong winds; to promote planing you need to get the bow sections clear of the water. Moving weight aft also helps steering and counters any pitching moment of the rig trying to make the dinghy nosedive. Whether sailing upwind or down, the crew should work as a team concentrating body weight together. This reduces windage and any pitching caused by waves. Centreboard position Every alteration of course should be matched by an almost instinctive change in centreboard position. In stronger winds it is better to raise the centreboard a little, even when beating, in order to reduce heeling forces; this increases speed and effectively reduces leeway. Course made good Plan your route to take the greatest advantage of favourable factors while avoiding the effects of contrary factors. Wind shifts occur on any water; the most efficient course made good should take advantage of lifts and avoid headers. The best course made good downwind in the absence of a strong current or waves, and free of obstructions to water or wind, will probably be a straight line between departure and destination. In planing conditions, straight lines may not be optimal. Take advantage of gusts to keep speed to a maximum. At all other times, you ll have to weigh up the relative benefits of different routes. When sailing on still water close to shore, the wind shadows caused by buildings or trees might be your only concern. On rivers, the current is the primary consideration - stay out in the middle
of the river when it helps, keep to the edges when it hurts. Avoid the faster current around bends in the river; it is usually faster on the outside of the bend. At sea, the tide is a factor. The basic principle of staying in a fair tidal stream and out of a foul one is clear enough; it is similar to river current. Advanced sailors should be thinking about how to use or avoid the tidal stream. They flow fastest in channels and around headlands, so plan your route accordingly. Assuming you can tack efficiently, it always pays to take shorttacks along the shore in shallow water rather than long tacks out into the current. Sailing Backwards Properly done, this technique appears elegant, but it is not simply a matter of pushing the boom as far forward as you can and holding it in position. Remember three important points: Concentrate crew weight well forward in the boat. This lifts the stern clear of the water, reducing drag and making steering easier. Don t forget to raise the centreboard, it is not needed to prevent leeway and its presence will exaggerate course corrections. Keep a firm hand on the tiller. The rudder is effectively at the front of the boat and as you gather speed the water pressure on either side will be substantial. Only very small tiller movements are needed to control your course; remember that the rudder works in reverse going backwards. When you have sailed backwards far enough, choose the way you want the dinghy to sail off. Unless hazards restrict the choice, it is easier to get out of this manoeuvre by pointing the tiller towards the boom. That way, the boat will turn so that the mainsail will end up to leeward without the boom moving right across the boat in an inadvertent gybe. Measuring your skill sailing a circular course This exercise is very popular with Instructors and Coaches; it provides a very compact way of practising or assessing boat handling. You should aim to complete a neat circle repetitively around a stationary, free floating object, the radius of the circle being no more than three boat lengths. With practice you should be able to bring the radius down to one boat length, still meeting the criterion that should the action be frozen at any moment everything should be perfectly suited to the point of sailing. The exception to this will be the centreboard. As the circle becomes smaller, the crew will have to leave the centreboard in one position. Each tack and gybe should be smooth and the boat should remain upright throughout. If you have good control of tacking and gybing, you can continue circling almost indefinitely. If you are not totally in control of the tacking and gybing, the result will be a tangle of tiller extension and mainsheet.
Spinnakers an introduction Spinnakers add considerably to the enjoyment of sailing. Unfortunately, the Albacores and Lasers at Sail RA are not equipped with spinnakers. With practice, it is not a difficult sail to use; however, it is only connected to the boat at three points. The diagram showing a boat with a spinnaker is intended to familiarize you with the essential terms used for a spinnaker. You may find them useful if you have an opportunity to sail a boat with a spinnaker.
BOAT HANDLING IN ADVERSE CIRCUMSTANCES Sailing without a centreboard A centreboard is vital to minimize leeway. When sailing without a centreboard the aim is to minimise the loss of pointing ability. To a certain extent, hard-chine dinghies respond to being heeled to leeward so that a chine is immersed to provide lateral resistance. Unfortunately, this technique is useless on both Albacores and Lasers. Try moving crew weight well forward to immerse the vee sections of the bow. This will also increase lateral resistance but could result in a lee helm. Making windward progress is possible. Accept that pointing will be poor and sail fast and free to minimise leeway. Make the most of wind shifts and any current differences but above all make extra allowance for obstructions. If in doubt about the boat s course made good, sail to leeward or down current of any hazards. Sailing without a rudder Once basic techniques are mastered, sailing without a rudder is one of dinghy sailing s most satisfying skills. When learning the technique, prepare the boat and choose your weather well. The basic principle of sailing without a rudder is to steer using the sails, boat balance and trim. Sailing without a rudder is easiest when variables are reduced to a minimum. Keep all weight well forward and have the crew sit motionless on the boat s centreline only moving if directed. Knot the jib sheets together to make them easier to control. Raise the centreboard by a third to move the centre of lateral resistance aft. This will reduce the sensitivity of the boat to crew movement Sail to a clear stretch of water, then with the mainsheet in one hand and the jib sheets in the other begin. Start on a reach and find out how changes in sail trim affect the course sailed. Every type of boat responds differently, but the mainsail has far more effect in causing a dinghy to luff into the wind than the jib has in causing a dinghy to bear away. This is the main reason for adjusting the centreboard position. Sheeting in the mainsail alone will be enough to tack, but gybing requires the combined effect of sheeting in the jib and windward heel. With practice, the dinghy can be handled on any point of sailing. To a distant observer, the proper technique should make it appear that the rudder is still in place. Positive boat handling should permit sailing to windward, tacking or gybing.
CAPSIZE RECOVERY - ALBACORES The majority of sailing dinghies used for training are stable designs. Capsize is something some novices worry about unnecessarily, and so capsize recovery drill is part of Sail RA training. The Golden Rule is Stay with the Boat. The following method of righting is an alternative six-step scoop method advocated by the RYA in Britain. It will work in most conditions but, even if you cannot get sailing again, don t be tempted to swim for the shore. The boat s inherent buoyancy will keep you afloat and out of the water, and it s much easier for others to see a capsized dinghy than a head in the water. Step 1. Both the crew and the helm swim to stern where the helm checks that the rudder is secure and not floating off. The crew finds the of the mainsheet and gives it to the helm who, using it as a lifeline, swims around the outside the boat to the centreboard. The crew then swims along the inside of the boat to the centreboard case. the end of Step 2. The crew checks that the centreboard is fully down and the helm holds onto it to prevent the boat inverting. Step 3. The crew finds the top (weather) jib sheet and throws it over to the helm who confirms that he has it. Step 4. The crew lies in the hull facing forward and floats above the side-deck, sure not to hang on (his extra weight won t the helm right the dinghy and may make it impossible). being help Step 5. The helm either lies back straight in the water with his feet on the boat s gunwale and hauls
on the jib sheet or climbs onto the centreboard, keeping his weight as close to the hull as possible to avoid breaking the board, and hauls on the fib sheet to right the dinghy with the crew Step 6. With the jib backed the dinghy is hove-to and the crewman then helps the helm aboard. In fact, the helm may find that he may be able to get halfway into the boat as it comes upright. The Albacore dinghy it usually comes up full of water. The water must be bailed out. Keep the boat level and start bailing. Work fast and keep the water level below the top of the centreboard case. A bailer is an essential part of the dinghy s equipment. The worst bailer is the one that floats away from the capsized boat, so make sure it is tied on. Some dinghies have the buoyancy distributed in side tanks that makes them turn completely upside down easily. To counteract this, you should never hang onto the inside of a dinghy as you capsize, but simply drop into the water. If the dinghy does invert, the easiest way to get it back onto its side is for the crew to press down on one side of the stern white the helm uses his weight and leverage on the centreboard. Then proceed as above. Capsize Recovery Lasers If you are learning in a Laser dinghy, you will probably be briefed about capsize before you go afloat for the first time. Once again, the Golden Rule is Stay with the Boat. If the Laser capsizes to leeward, climb over the edge of the hull and stand on the daggerboard where it emerges from the hull. Hold onto the gunwale, lean back and slowly pull the boat upright. If you can time your re-entry into the boat as the hull comes upright you may not even get your feel wet. In a windward capsize you might be thrown out before the boat stops. Hold onto the mainsheet if possible, swim to the boat and hang onto the daggerboard. Your weight on the daggerboard may be enough to lift the mast and sail clear of the water, when the wind will take over and flip the boat upright. Often the boat will then immediately capsize to leeward; there is no crew weight to counteract the wind pressure from the sail. Then you can continue as for leeward capsize. If your weight is not enough to right the boat, climb onto the daggerboard and pull gently on the hull to lift the mast just clear of the water. Hold the boat balanced in that position and let the wind push the whole boat around until the sail is downwind, when you can continue as for leeward capsize. If the dinghy inverts, pull the daggerboard out as far out as possible. You might be able to right it by standing on the windward gunwale, holding on to the daggerboard and leaning back. Lasers, like may modern designs, will come upright with so little water aboard that you can sail on immediately. The self-bailer in the aft of the cockpit may be used as soon as you pick up speed to drain any residual water.
SAILING THEORY AND BACKGROUND Terminology Absolute positions on the boat Fore and Aft In line from bow to stern, on or parallel to the centreline Amidships Bow Stern Quarter Port Starboard In the middle of the boat The forward part of the boat The aftermost part of the boat The part of the boat on each side behind amidships, i.e. the rear corners. The left side facing forward The right side facing forward Position relative to the boat Windward Leeward Abeam Ahead Astern To weather Forward Aft Downwind The side from which the wind is blowing The side away from which the wind is blowing At right angles to the centreline In front of the boat Behind the boat to windward Near or towards the bow Near or towards the stern To leeward Boat Manoeuvres Tacking Also called going about turning the bow of the boat through the wind. In racing terms, a boat is tacking from the moment the bow is head to wind until steadied up on the new course. Gybing Turning the stern through the wind. Strictly, a dinghy is gybing when, with the wind aft, the foot of the mainsail crosses the centreline. The gybe is complete when the sail fills on the new tack. In Irons Stationary head to wind By the lee Running with the wind on the same side as the boom. Planing Sailing fast enough to rise up over the bow wave and sail faster than the hull speed. To luff Turning towards the wind without tacking To bear away Turning further away from the wind
To pinch Sternway Broaching Trying to sail closer to the wind than close-hauled, causing the sails to luff on the leading edges. Moving backwards under control. Uncontrolled movement into the wind. Basic Sailing Theory In order to make communication easier, there is a name for each direction of sailing, and they are all expressed relative to the wind. As we have already explained it is impossible to sail called the No-Go Zone We have also already explained that a sail works best at only one angle to the wind. Without going into too much detail, the easiest way to understand the aerodynamic theory of how a sail works is to think of it as a wind deflector. Wind moves along a sail from front to back. The force that the wind exerts on a sail can be split into two components - lift and drag. Lift is the driving power; drag heels the boat over and pushes it bodily sideways through the water. If a sail works best at only one angle to the wind (to find that position simply sheet in until the sail just stops flapping along the luff), then it follows that every time you alter the boat s course, you will have to adjust the position of the sail. Try to think of this as moving the boat under the sail and it will soon become a natural action. The overall effect of drag on the boat will vary according to the boat s heading relative to the wind. Firstly, drag will push the boat directly away from the wind. If you are running, this does not matter, but when reaching or beating the centreboard must resist it. Drag is clearly most detrimental when you are beating, which is why the centreboard is lowered fully for this point of sailing. By lowering the centreboard, the sideways movement or leeway is reduced or even eliminated. Unfortunately, we cannot eliminate drag. Instead of sideways movement, the drag force and resistance from the centreboard create a moment that acts to tip the boat over. The helm and crew sitting out to balance the boat resist this heeling moment and keep the boat flat. The amount of weight required to balance the boat will vary according to the wind strength and direction. When crew weight alone cannot resist the heeling moment it must be reduced. Since the moment is caused by the combined action of drag on the sail and water resistance on the
centreboard, either the sail must be let out to reduce drag or the centreboard raised to reduce resistance. From all of this, you can see that the helm and crew have to work together to adjust sail trim, balance and centreboard position to get the most from the boat on any point of sailing. Don t worry if it seems complicated at first; with practice it will soon become natural.
INTERNATIONAL REGULATIONS FOR PREVENTING COLLISIONS AT SEA Basic Rules of the Road As with every other form of transport, rules govern behaviour between boats. The rules are called the International Regulations for Preventing Collisions at Sea. Your principal duty is to avoid hitting anything. As a beginner, it is always better to slow or stop the boat by letting the sheets go and turning into the wind. If you turn away from the wind the boat will gain speed and any subsequent collisions will cause considerably more damage than if the boat is slowing. When meeting other sailing boats, there are two important rules to remember: 1. Boats on port tack must keep dear of boats on starboard lack. Starboard tack boats have a duty to maintain their course to allow other boats to keep clear. 2. When boats travel together or converge on the same tack, the boat to windward must keep clear of the boat to leeward Meeting power driven vessels and rowing shells When meeting power-driven craft of similar size, particularly speedboats or personal watercraft, expect them to keep clear. The old adage that steam gives way to sail is true most of the time. One important exception is large power-driven vessels in waters where they must keep to narrow channels to avoid running aground. This applies equally whether the power driven vessel is a ship following a buoyed channel in a large river or lake or a yacht proceeding under power in a narrow channel leading to a marina. The basic principle is that the power keeps out of the way of the sail, but important exceptions exist. Sailing vessels shall not impede the passage of a power driven vessel that can only navigate within a narrow channel. What seems like a wide-open space to you could be a narrow channel to a larger vessel. Remember a dinghy can manoeuvre much faster than most large powerboats. Also remember that rowing shells manoeuvre with difficulty and rowers look backwards. While you may have rights, be considerate of other river users.