Samurai Armor Set: Step by Step

Samurai Armor Set: Step by Step Pack 6 Stages -5

Contents Stage Pages 7-76 The tasset plates and shoulder pad Stage Pages 77-8 The tassets, helmet and helmet lining Stage Pages 8-86 The tasset plates and guard pad Stage Pages 87-90 The tassets and mask beard Stage 5 Pages 9-9 The tasset plates, mask beard and moustache Photo credits All photographs copyright DeAgostini Visit our website www.model-space.com Editorial and design by Continuo Creative, 9- North Road, London N7 9DP All rights reserved 0 De Agostini Publishing USA, 95 Broadway, Suite 609, NEW YORK, NY 000 NOT SUITABLE FOR CHILDREN UNDER THE AGE OF. THIS PRODUCT IS NOT A TOY AND IS NOT DESIGNED OR INTENDED FOR USE IN PLAY. ITEMS MAY VARY FROM THOSE SHOWN.

The tasset plates and shoulder pad Your parts Shoulder pad Thread (approx. 500cm) Needle Lace (approx. 50cm) Tasset plate and backing (first) Tasset plate and backing (second) Tasset plate and backing (third) Stage Tools & materials Toothpick Glue Scissors Tape measure Masking tape The tasset plates Cut the lace into three equal lengths and shape each end to a point. Apply each backing to the corresponding tasset plate. Thread the three laces through the bottom inner holes of the lower row of the first plate. Pass the lace furthest on the right straight down, under the second plate and up through the corresponding middle hole in the top row, on the right, as shown. Then pass the remaining lengths of lace through the corresponding holes of the same row. Remember to check the plates against the check sheet. Cross the laces over, thread them through to the back, then back through to the front, as shown. 7

5 Repeat the process in Steps and to fit the second and third plates to the first. 6 Before and after fitting each plate, check its position on the plate check sheet. The shoulder pad Cut the thread to a length of 00cm. Pass it through the eye of the needle and pull it through until the ends are an equal length, then knot them together. Knot Remove the armor from the stand and undo the fastenings under the shoulder plates at the front of the cuirass. Temporarily tape the shoulder pad in place on the inside of the back plate. Thread the needle through the top of the shoulder pad, from behind, in between the two holes on the cuirass plate. Pull the thread all the way through until the knot stops up against the back of the pad. Thread the needle back through the shoulder pad and pass it out of the left hole of the cuirass plate (circled). 5 Pass the needle through the hole on the right of the back plate and through to the front of the pad, then back through the pad. Tie a knot in the thread in between the pad and the back plate to secure. 75

6 7 Cut the thread above the knot, then remove the masking tape. Thread the needle through the upper part of the pad, aligned with the lower hole (circled) of the shoulder plate. 8 9 Thread the needle through the holes and the pad at this point, and secure the thread as you did with the back. Thread the shoulder pad to the shoulder plate at the two circled points. Inside Outside 0 Sew the pad onto the left shoulder plate, at the points circled, following the same process as demonstrated in the previous steps. Assembled parts 76

The tassets, helmet and helmet lining Stage Your parts Tasset plate and backing (fourth) Tasset plate and backing (fifth) Tasset plate and backing (sixth) Lace (approx. 0cm) Yellow lace (approx. 80cm) Large rivets x Small rivets x Suede strip Helmet lining Tools & materials Toothpick Needle Instant adhesive Pen Tape measure Pins Thread (black) White glue Masking tape Tweezers Scissors The tasset plates Fix the three plate backings onto their corresponding tasset plates. Prepare the 5mm lace as before, with one shaped end and one sealed end, for the sixth plate. Thread one length of lace all the way through the third hole on the front side of the sixth plate. Pass the lace from the back through to the front, then through to the back again, and repeat for the entire row. Tie a knot at the end, cut away any excess lace, and apply glue to the knot to secure it. 77 Prepare the length of lace again, and thread it through the bottom hole of the third column of the sixth plate.

5 Cross over to the fourth hole of the middle row and thread back through. Complete the lacing along the two bottom rows of the sixth plate, as detailed on page 0. The tasset and cuirass Pass the lengths of lace through to the back of the sixth plate and tie a ball knot at the end of each length of lace. Cut away the excess, and apply glue to the knots to secure them in place. Retrieve the three plates assembled in Stage and lace the fourth plate onto the other three. Remember to check their positions against the other tassets and the check sheet. Lace the fifth and sixth plates onto the rest of the tasset. 5 Prepare another length of lace and thread it through the second hole from the left at the bottom of the back plate. Thread the yellow laces down both sides of the tasset. Refer to previous stages and the check sheet if necessary. 6 Pass the lace down and through the second hole from the right edge on the first tasset plate. Adjust the distance between the tasset and the bottom of the cuirass. 8 Pass the lace behind the cuirass, through the next hole and back down to the tasset. Repeat Steps 7-8 for the rest of the tasset. 9 7 Thread two lengths of yellow lace from the cuirass to the first tasset plate. Cross the lace down to the second row, then pass it across behind the tasset and back through to the front. Cross it over to the first row, then pass it back up to the cuirass and through to the back. 78

The helmet Prepare one end of the yellow lace. Thread it through the circled hole, from the inside of the helmet. Thread the end of the lace back through the same hole. Pull the lace through the hole until about 5mm remains on the inside of the helmet, and glue into place. Cut the lace so that 5mm is left on the inside of the helmet, and glue into place. 5 Repeat Steps - for the three remaining holes in the helmet. The helmet lining Cut the excess from the helmet lining, in a circle 5mm from the outermost threads. There is a front and back to the lining, as there is to the helmet. There is also a series of loose thread ends on one side of it find the outermost one and pull it. Working around in a spiral, keep pulling the loose ends to shape the lining. When the lining is close to the shape of the helmet, place it over the outside of the helmet to achieve the correct profile. It is recommended that you try it on the inside as well. 79

The lining strip Front Back The suede strip has a front and a back side, shown on the left. Mark a seam line on the back of the strip, 5mm from the edge. Tip If you would prefer not to use a needle and thread, you can use a stapler to attach the strip to the lining. Place one end of the strip inside the lining, with the front side facing inward. Thread the needle through the strip at the seam line, pinning it into place on the lining. Then pin the rest of the strip to the lining, pinning the seam line to the first row of thread. Needle Front Remove the needle and fold the end of the strip over by mm. Thread the needle back through the strip and lining. Running stitch Pull the needle and thread through the strip and lining. Then pass them back through, continuing around the seam line using a running stitch. 6 Cut off the excess strip beyond the stitching (left). 5 Fold the end of the strip over and thread the needle through both ends, joining them together with a running stitch. Secure the end with a knot. 80

Fitting the helmet lining Identify the front of the lining and place it inside the helmet, as shown. Mark and cut a hole in the back of the suede strip of the lining. Put the lining into the helmet, and fit the hole cut in the previous step over the hook at the back. Mark the remaining two hooks onto the strip and cut a hole for each. 5 Mark one of the four holes in the lip of the helmet onto the strip, and cut a hole in the strip where the mark is. 6 Check that the hole is properly aligned, and then mark and cut the remaining three holes. 7 Make a mm cut in the outer edge of the strip in line with each edge of the visor. 8 Apply instant adhesive to the edge of the strip and press down onto the lip. 8

Gap 9 Fold the front of the lining strip over and glue into the gap (dotted red line) between the helmet and the visor. The rivets Stick the four large rivets to some masking tape and fit into the holes around the wing plate. Take the neck guard assembly and place it on the helmet, aligning the four holes of the wing plate with those of the helmet lip. Repeat this process for the remaining three rivets. Apply instant adhesive to one of the large rivets, from the inside of the helmet, and insert a small rivet into the hole in the large one. 5 Mark four rectangles on the excess suede strip, 0 x 5mm in diameter, with slightly rounded corners. Cut them out, as shown. 0mm 5mm 8

6 Apply glue to the front side of one of the suede pieces, and place it over one of the holes in the lining strip, to cover the rivet. Assembled parts 7 Repeat for the other three rivet holes. 8

The tasset plates and guard pad Stage Your parts Tasset plate and backing (first) Tasset plate and backing (second) Tasset plate and backing (third) Lace (approx. 70cm) Guard pad Tools & materials Toothpick Glue Awl Scissors Measuring tape Needle Thread (black) Ballpoint pen The tasset plates Cut 0cm of lace and put to one side. Then cut the remaining length into three equal strips. Fit the tasset plate backings onto the corresponding plates. Thread the three laces through the bottom inner holes of the lower row of the first plate. Pass the lace furthest on the right straight down, under the second plate and up through the corresponding middle hole in the top row, on the right, as shown. Then pass the remaining lengths of lace through the corresponding holes of the same row. Remember to check the plates against the check sheet. Cross the laces over, thread them through to the back, then back through to the front, as shown. 8

5 Before and after fitting each plate, check its position on the plate check sheet. 6 Fit the second and third tasset plates to the first. The guard pad Apply glue to the open end of the guard pad. Hold the guard pad up against the cuirass, over the front and left side plates, with the wider end on the front plate. Use an awl to create a hole through the border at each marked point. Mark the locations of the three sets of holes on the cuirass (circled, left) onto the border part of the guard pad. You may need to mark the two sets at the corners of the border rather than the sides. 5 6 Prepare the 0cm length of lace, with a pointed end and a knotted end, and thread through the left hole in the front plate of the cuirass Thread the lace through the hole in the top corner of the guard pad. Left hole 85

7 Pass the lace back into the pad and then the front plate, through the hole on the right. Pull the lace through to bring the pad up against the plate, and then secure with a knot (circled) and cut off the excess. 8 Following the same process, lace the rest of the pad to the cuirass. 9 Pass the needle and thread through the hole in the front plate of the cuirass where the yellow laces are knotted, and then through the bottom left corner of the guard pad. Assembled parts 0 Pass the needle back through the pad and into the hole next to the one in the front plate with the yellow laces. Secure the ends with knots. Use the same process to secure the middle and other end of the bottom of the pad to the cuirass. There are no specific holes you should use, but make sure there is always a space between them. 86

Stage The tassets and mask beard Your parts Tasset plate and backing (fourth) Tasset plate and backing (fifth) Tasset plate and backing (sixth) Lace (approx. 00cm) Yellow lace (approx. 70cm) Beard hair bunch Tools & materials Toothpick White glue Instant adhesive Scissors Thread (white) Tweezers Swab The tasset plates Fix the three plate backings onto their corresponding tasset plates. Prepare the 5mm lace as before, with one shaped end and one sealed end, for the sixth plate. Thread one length of lace all the way through the third hole on the front side of the sixth plate. Pass the lace from the back through to the front, then through to the back again, and repeat for the entire row. Tie a knot at the end, cut away any excess lace, and apply glue to the knot to secure it. Prepare the length of lace again, and thread it through the bottom hole of the third column of the sixth plate. 87

5 Cross over to the fourth hole of the middle row and thread back through. Complete the lacing along the two bottom rows of the sixth plate, as detailed on page 0. The tasset Pass the lengths of lace through to the back of the sixth plate and tie a ball knot at the end of each length. Cut away the excess, and apply glue to the knots to secure them in place. Retrieve the three plates assembled in Stage, and lace the fourth plate onto the other three. Remember to check the positions against the other tassets and the check sheet. Lace the fifth and sixth plates onto the rest of the tasset. 5 Prepare another length of lace and thread it through the second hole from the left at the bottom of the back plate. Thread the yellow laces down both sides of the tasset. Refer to previous stages and the check sheet, if necessary. 6 7 Pass the lace down and through the second hole from the right edge on the first tasset plate. Adjust the distance between the tasset and the bottom of the cuirass. Cross the lace down to the second row, then pass it across behind the tasset and back through to the front. Cross it over to the first row, then pass it back up to the cuirass and through to the back. 8 Pass the lace behind the cuirass, through the next hole and back down to the tasset. Repeat Steps 6-7 for the rest of the tasset. Thread two lengths of yellow laces from the cuirass to the first tasset plate. 88

The mask beard Remove the nose from the face mask. Remove 0-50 lengths of beard hair from the bunch. Stack the 0-50 lengths together and trim any that exceed 0cm in length. Tie the lengths together in the middle with some thread. Apply some glue to the knot to prevent the thread from coming undone. Hold the two ends of the thread together and insert 5 from the front into the hole on the right side of the chin. 6 7 Pull the thread through until the first hairs show and apply instant adhesive to them. 8 Pull the threads through the hole until the knot passes into it and folds the lengths of beard hair in half. Before the glue dries, pull the beard back through a little so it dries to the face mask. Then cut off the knot. 89

9 Your mask should now look like this. 0 Following the same process, thread the remaining lengths of beard into the mask. To create a neater looking curve, cut the lengths from cm at the sides down to.5cm in the center. Trim the lengths of beard to cm long. Assembled parts Spread the hairs around to create a more even-looking coverage. 90

Stage 5 The tasset plates, mask beard and moustache Your parts Tasset plate and backing (first) Tasset plate and backing (second) Tasset plate and backing (third) Lace (approx. 50cm) Beard/moustache hair bunch Tools & materials Toothpick Glue Instant adhesive Thread (white) Black paint Scissors The tasset plates Attach the backings to the three tasset plates, making sure to line up the holes on each part. Next, cut the lace into three equal lengths, with sharpened and glued tips, as you have done for previous tasset laces. Thread the three laces through the bottom inner holes of the lower row so that your tasset looks like the photo to the right. Next, thread the laces through the holes in the second tasset plate, referring to the tasset check sheet to ensure you have the correct space between plates. Then, cross the two ends over, pass through the holes in the next row down, and pull back through to the front. Your first two tasset plates should look like this, with the laces protruding over the front of the second plate, ready for the third. Double check that yours looks exactly like the ones in the photo. 9

5 Use the tasset check sheet to line up the third tasset plate, then lace through the holes accordingly. 6 This stage is complete, and your set of three tasset plates should look like this. Check against the tassets you have built previously, and the check sheet, that you have assembled the tassets correctly. The mask beard Remove the wire from the middle of the hair bunch, and select roughly 0-50 strands. Stack the bunch together and trim any hairs that exceed 0cm in length. Tie in the middle with some thread. Apply some glue to the knot to prevent the thread from coming undone. Hold the ends of the thread together and insert from the front into one of the holes on the face mask directly below the mouth. 5 As you did with the lower part of the beard, pull the threads through the hole until the lengths of hair fold in half and enter the hole themselves. Using a toothpick, dab the knot with some instant adhesive, then pull the hairs from the front so that the knot rests against the inside of the mask. 6 Cut the thread with scissors, leaving only the knot visible inside. 7 Repeat Steps -6 for the remaining two holes beneath the mouth. Using 8 scissors, trim the beard to about.5cm. 9

The moustache Remove the nose from the face mask. Add the hairs of the moustache in exactly the same way as you did for the beard on page 89, cutting the excess thread and dabbing the knot with glue. Repeat for all the remaining holes. Trim the moustache with scissors to a length of around cm, shortening to.5cm in the middle to achieve an even curve. Mix glue with black paint to a ratio of 0:. Assembled parts 5 Paint the white knots on the inside of the mask with the black mixture. 6 Leave the mixture to dry before reattaching the nose and mouth plates of the face mask. 9

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