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Contents Parts of a Rope 1 Bends Carrick Bend 2 Fisherman s Bend 4 Hunter s/rigger s Bend 5 Sheet Bend 7 Hitches Clove Hitch 8 Highwayman s Hitch 9 Italian Hitch 11 Marline Hitch 12 Round Turn and Two Half Hitches 14 Timber Hitch 16-2 -
Knots Alpine Butterfly 17 Bowline 18 Bowline on a Bight 20 Portuguese Bowline 21 Spanish Bowline 22 Triple Bowline 24 Figure of Eight 26 Double Figure Of Eight 28 Figure of Eight Rethreaded 29 Klemheist Knot 30 Monkeys Fist 31 Overhand Knot 32 Prusik Knot 33 French Prusik Knot 34 Reef Knot 35 Sheepshank 37 Stopper Knot 38 Tape Knot 39 Thompson Knot 40 Miscellaneous Improvised Abseiling 41 Improvised Harnesses 42 Lowering Techniques 43 Rope Bridges 44 Rope Stretcher 46-3 -
Parts of a Rope working end: the part of the rope that is actively involved in the knot-tying process standing end: the part of the rope that is not actively involved in the knot-typing process bight: rope that is folded back over itself (like a u-shape) loop: a bight that has been twisted so two adjacent parts of the rope cross over each other o overhand loop: a loop in which the working end is on top of the standing o end underhand loop: a loop in which the standing end is on top of the working end elbow: a loop that has been twisted twice so that the rope crosses at two points - 1 -
Carrick Bend When large hawsers have to work through small pipes, good security may be obtained either by passing ten or twelve taut racking turns with a suitable strand and securing each end to a standing part of the hawser, or by taking half as many round turns taut, crossing the ends between the hawsers over the seizing and reef knotting the ends. This should be repeated in three places and the extreme ends well stopped. Connecting hawsers by bowline knots is very objectionable, as the bend is large and the knots jam. - 2 -
How to tie a Carrick Bend 1. Lay the end of one hawser over its own part to form a bight 'a'. 2. Then pass the end of another hawser up through that bight near 'b'. 3. Then going out over the first end at 'c'. 4. Cross under the first long part and over its end at 'd'. 5. Then under both long parts, forming the loops, and above the first short part at 'b', terminating at the end 'e' in the opposite direction vertically and horizontally to the other end. 6. The ends of a Carrick Knot should be securely stopped to their respective standing parts, and also a stop put on 'd' the extreme end to prevent it catching a pipe or chock; in that form this is the best quick means of uniting two large hawsers, since they cannot jam. - 3 -
Fisherman's Bend The fisherman's hitch is particularly useful in making fast large hawsers. How to tie a Fisherman's Bend 1. With the end of a rope take two turns around a spar, or through a ring. 2. Take a half-hitch around the standing part and under all the turns. 3. Then make a half-hitch round the standing part only and if desired seize the end to standing part. - 4 -
Hunter's/Rigger's Bend One of the few new knots "discovered" in this century. This knot was originally credited to Dr. Edward Hunter in 1970 and called the Hunters Bend. Actually it was published as a Rigger's Bend in Knots for Mountaineers by Phil Smith about 1950. This is an excellent method for joining two ropes. - 5 -
How to tie a Hunter s/rigger s Bend 1. To tie this knot, make a loop in the end of rope which is coming in from the left, making sure that the end curves upward and crosses over on top of the main part of the rope. 2. The end of rope coming in from the right should pass over and then through the loop from the front, then it should curve upward and form a loop with the end crossing behind the main part of the rope. 3. Notice that the two loops are not mirror-images of each other. 4. Bring the end of rope on the left through the centre of the knot (where the two loops overlap each other) from behind, then bring the end of rope on the right through the centre of the knot from the front. 5. Notice in that the two ends of rope are passing through the centre of the knot from different directions (one from behind and one from the front). - 6 -
Sheet Bend The Sheet Bend Knot is structurally related to the Bowline Knot. It is used for tying two ropes of different diameters, is considered an essential knot to know and is more secure than the Reef Knot. How to tie a Sheet Bend 1. Pass the end of one rope through the bight of another. 2. Go around both parts of the other and under its own standing parts. - 7 -
Clove Hitch A more secure knot is the "Clove Hitch", sometimes known as the "Builders' Hitch." How to tie a Clove Hitch 1. Pass the end of the rope around a spar or timber. 2. Then pass it over itself and over and around the spar or timber. 3. Pass the end under itself and between the rope and spar. 4. Tighten. - 8 -
Highwayman's Hitch According to legend, the highwayman s hitch got its name because it was the knot highwaymen used to tie their horses to the carriage they were robbing. The knot is also sometimes called a mooring hitch because it is used when securing a boat to a dock or pier. Its key feature is that it can be released by simply tugging the free end, making it ideal for any situation where it may not be possible to reach the end, or where it would need to be quickly released. - 9 -
How to tie a Highwayman s Hitch 1. To tie this knot, pass a bight (a doubled rope) around an object. 2. Then take the main part of the rope and push a bight through the first bight. 3. Now take the end of the rope and push a bight through the second bight, 4. Tighten the knot. 5. When you need to untie the hitch, simply pull the end of the rope and the quick-release knot will completely fall apart. - 10 -
Italian Hitch The Italian Hitch is an extremely useful knot as it can be used for Belaying, Abseiling, and rigging. It is a friction device which creates friction by rubbing on the hardware or object, usually a Carabiner, so the descent can be controlled in a belay mechanism. But since this knot leaves a lot of bends in the rope, the Italian Hitch is used only as back-up or for emergency situations. As a belaying knot, this hitch allows great flexibility in system design and operation. The knot is controlled from the front, as opposed to a belay plate which must be controlled from behind. Maximum breaking is obtained by having the ropes parallel on the load side of the carabiner. How to tie an Italian Hitch 1. Run the rope through the opened carabiner. 2. Make a loop in the rope. 3. Pass the carabiner through the loop. 4. Pull to tighten and close the gate of the carabiner. - 11 -
Marline Hitch A marline hitch was originally used to lash long objects such as a yardarm on a sailing vessel. This hitch also was used to tie wire trees before the invention of the tie wrap. Today, the marline hitch most common use is to secure long bundles of brush for disposal. The following steps will show how to tie a marline hitch. - 12 -
How to tie a Marline Hitch 1. Assume that you are tying to a horizontal pole and that the standing end of the rope is on your left. Hold a section of the standing end horizontally along the front of the pole. 2. Bend the rope upward at a right angle and wrap the working end over the top of the pole. Pull it back up from the bottom of the pole and bring it over the horizontal section formed in Step 1. 3. Push the working end under the turning made in Step 2 at the right angle and dress the marline hitch by pulling the working end tight. 4. Make a series of marline hitches as this knot is not used individually. The marline hitch is not a secure knot and is distinguished from a simple overhand knot only by the horizontal section of rope separating the knots. A row of marline hitches must be started and ended with a securing knot such as a constrictor, timber or double marline hitch. 5. Observe the advantage of a row of marline hitches. The hitches can be tightened with a single horizontal pull on the working end, although each hitch should ideally be tightened individually. - 13 -
Round Turn and Two Half Hitches A very useful knot, even though the only people who seem to have heard of it are sailors and Boy Scouts. It can be used to tie a swing to a branch or an oil tanker to its quay. The classic knot has only one "round turn", but it can have as many as you need. Greater loads need more turns, but not more hitches, as all they do it lock the knot in place. With practice, you can tie this knot one-handed, allowing you to hold onto your mule with one hand, while you lash it to a hitching post with the other. - 14 -
How to tie a Round Turn and Two Half Hitches 1. First, loop a "turn" of line around the post. The line should go around the post at least one full turn, but more can be added (if, for instance, you have a particularly poorly-behaved mule). 2. Pass the loose end over the line, then back through between the loose end and the loaded end. 3. Pull tight, and repeat the half-hitch in the same direction you tied the first. - 15 -
Timber Hitch The Timber Hitch is even better than the Clove hitch. It is easily made by passing the end of a rope around the spar or log, round the standing part of the rope and then twist it three or more times around, under and over itself. How to tie a Timber Hitch 1. Take the end a of a rope round a spar. 2. Then round the standing part b. 3. Then several times round its own part c, against the lay of the rope. - 16 -
Alpine Butterfly The Alpine Butterfly is generally considered to be one of the strongest and most secure loop knots. It is strong, secure, and easily tied. It can be tied in the middle of a rope when you don't have access to the ends. It can be pulled in two or three directions without distorting, and it can be used to strengthen a damaged rope by isolating the damaged area. These things make the Alpine Butterfly a very versatile and valuable knot to know. How to tie an Alpine Butterfly 1. Twist the rope to form a loop. 2. Form another loop by twisting the loop that you made earlier. This creates two loops which resemble the number 8. 3. Bring the second loop (the one at the top) down and underneath the rope. 4. Pass the second loop through the first one. 5. Pull the two ends of the rope in opposite directions. - 17 -
Bowline This is a most useful knot employed to form a loop which will not slip. Running bowlines are formed by making a bowline round its own standing part. It is the most common and convenient temporary running noose. The sailor's knot par excellence, is the "Bow-line" and wherever we find sailors, or seamen, we will find this knot in one or another of its various forms. When you can readily and surely tie this knot every time, you may feel yourself on the road to "Marline-spike Seamanship," for it is a true sailor's knot and never slips, jams, or fails; is easily and quickly untied, and is useful in a hundred places around boats or in fact in any walk of life. - 18 -
How to tie a Bowline 1. In A the rope is shown with a bight or cuckold's neck formed with the end over the standing part. 2. Pass A back through the bight, under, then over, then under, as shown in B. 3. Then over and down through the bight, as shown in C and D. 4. Draw taut, as in the first image above. - 19 -
Bowline on a Bight The "Bow-line on a Bight" is just as easily made and is very useful in slinging casks or barrels and in forming a seat for men to be lowered over cliffs, or buildings, or to be hoisted aloft aboard ship for painting, cleaning, or rigging. How to tie a Bowline on a Bight Knot 1. Fold your rope in half. 2. Make a loop in one side of the rope. 3. Feed the other end through the loop. 4. Pull the pulled through loop over the top and behind the large loop. 5. Pull tight. - 20 -
Portuguese Bowline The Portuguese/French Bowline is sometimes used to lift or hoist injured personnel. It has two loops which are adjustable, so even an unconscious person can be lifted safely. One loop serves as a seat for the person, while the other loop goes around the body under the person s arms. The weight of the person keeps both loops tight and prevents the person from falling. How to tie a Portuguese Bowline Tie as a normal bowline, but add in an extra loop where shown below. - 21 -
Spanish Bowline The Spanish Bowline is useful in rescue work. It may also be used to give a twofold grip for lifting a pipe or other round object in a sling. Many people prefer the Spanish Bowline to the Portuguese or French Bowline because the bights are set and will not slip back and forth when the weight is shifted. How to tie a Spanish Bowline 1. Take a bight and bend it back away from you (view 1), forming two bights. 2. Then lap one bight over the other (view 2). 3. Next, grasp the two bights where they cross at (a) in view 2. Fold this part down toward you, forming four bights (view 3). 4. Next, pass bight (c) through bight (e) and bight (d) through bight (f) (view 4). 5. The complete knot is shown in view 5. - 22 -
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Triple Bowline The triple bowline knot ties three loops with one knot. It is a more difficult variant of the more traditional bowline knot. Used in rock climbing and boating, the triple bowline knot is a staple that can be mastered with a little determination and practice. - 24 -
How to tie a Triple Bowline 1. Fold a length of rope in half. Pick up the looped portion of the rope, known as the bight, and hold it in your right hand. Hold the doubled section of rope in the left. 2. Make a loop in the rope and thread the bight through it. Do not pull it tight at this point. 3. Pull the bight up and behind the rope. Then, guide the bight back through the same loop you threaded it through to begin with. 4. String the bight down until it's even with the longer loop. Pull the rope above the knot to tighten it. 5. Separate the two loops near your bight to create three separate loops. These loops can be used as a cradle or a sling, depending on the rope's weight rating and how well it is secured to the rock you're climbing. - 25 -
Figure of Eight The figure of eight knot (also known as Listing's knot) is used to prevent ropes from unravelling; it forms a large knob and is a very important knot for both sailing and rock climbing as helps to stop ropes from running out of their retaining devices. Below is a representation of two figure of eight knots on one strand of rope. - 26 -
How to tie a Figure of Eight 1. Cross the end of the rope over the top of the remaining rope making a q shape. 2. Pinch the top of the loop and twist it away from the tail of your q. 3. Pull the end of the rope or the tail of the q up through the upper loop from behind. 4. Pull both ends of the rope to tighten forming a figure eight. - 27 -
Double Figure of Eight The double figure eight, also known as the "Bunny Ears", is handy when equalising two anchors using the rope. Many top ropers are fond of this knot. The "ears" can be elongated or shrunk with a little adjustment making equalisation of the load fairly simple. How to tie a Double Figure of Eight 1. Start with a figure eight on a bite in the end of the rope, leaving a large loop sticking out the top. 2. Feed this large loop back into the figure of eight as to leave the twin "ears" behind. 3. Now tuck the large loop upwards, under the knot and finally over and around the twin "ears". 4. Pull the "ears" tight, and clip each on to your anchors. You can now adjust the tension, equalising the anchors by elongating one ear, and thus shrinking the other ear. - 28 -
Figure-of-eight Rethreaded The rethreaded figure-of-eight knot is an essential knot to know for a couple of applications. It is used around trees for setting up abseil anchors, and it is used by climbers to tie into the end of the rope. It is very easy to recognise when it has been tied correctly, so is easy for a leader to check. How to tie a Figure of Eight Rethreaded 1. Start with a figure-of-eight knot in the rope and feed the free end through or around the object that the knot will be anchored to. 2. Begin retracing the original knot starting from where the free end emerges. 3. Continue retracing the knot until you reach the end. 4. Pull tight. - 29 -
Klemheist Knot The Klemheist Knot is a relative of the Prusik Knot. Like the Prusik, this knot is a friction hitch often used for climbing and descending ropes. The Klemheist Knot will grip a rope when weight is applied, but it will also slide in the opposite direction whereas the Prusik knot will not. How to tie a Klemheist Knot 1. Tie the ends of a length of rope together. This makes a "Prusik" loop. Place the Prusik loop underneath the main rope. 2. Wrap the Prusik Loop around the main rope three or more turns. 3. Pull the knot of the Prusik loop through its opposing loop - 30 -
Monkey's Fist This knot is used to tie the end of a climbing rope into a tight ball so the rope can be thrown. How to tie a Monkey s Fist 1. To start tying the monkey's fist, you need about 10 feet of rope. You need this much! Wrap 3 times around your fist then pull the end inside and through the loops. 2. Wrap three loops on the outside of the first set of loops 3. Pass the end back into and through the first set of loops. 4. Wrap the second set of loops 3 times inside the first set of loops 5. There should be about 2 feet left over. Pull the end back and tie a stopper to the long end. - 31 -
Overhand Knot The overhand knot is used at the end of ropes to prevent their unravelling and as the commencement of other knots such as a simple noose, overhand loop, angler's loop, fisherman's knot and a water knot. It is a very secure knot and should be used when you want a knot that is permanent. While it seems so simple this knot is important, as it is frequently used in fastening the ends of yarns and strands in splicing, whipping, and seizing. How to tie an Overhand Knot 1. Make a loop with your rope 2. Take one end of your rope and stick it through the loop you just made. 3. Pull both ends of the rope tight. - 32 -
Prusik Knot A Prusik Knot is used in ascending a rope or as backup in abseiling. This knot is also useful in holding onto a vertical rope and hauling up load or another climber. How to tie a Prusik Knot 1. Tie the working end and standing part together to form a loop. For added security, you can tie a Fisherman's or Double Fisherman's Knot to create the loop. Pass the knot around the rope. 2. Make a second turn around the rope and then pass the knot through the loop you made. 3. Pull the knot to tighten. - 33 -
French prusik Knot The French prusik, or autoblock, is another in the family of slide-and-grip knots that includes the standard Prusik knot and the Klemheist. The main difference between the French prusik and the other ones is that the French prusik can be moved while weighted. How to tie a French Prusik Knot You need a relatively short length of accessory cord to tie this knot. Too long a cord will introduce too much slack into the system. We will assume that the cord has already been tied into a loop. 1. Start by taking the end of the cord furthest from the knot and passing the loop around the rope at least three times. 2. Clip a carabiner through both ends of the loop. - 34 -
Reef Knot The true "Reef Knot" is merely the square knot with the bight (loop) of the left or right end used instead of the end itself. This enables the knot to be "cast off" more readily than the regular square knot. This knot is so named from being used in tying the reef-points of a sail. As you can see from the images above and below, the differences are very slight between the true reef knot and the square knot. - 35 -
How to tie a Reef Knot 1. Form an overhand knot. 2. Then take the end 'a' over the end 'b' through the bight. 3. If the end were taken under the other end, a granny would be formed. 4. Pull it tight - 36 -
Sheepshank Sheepshanks are widely used for shortening rope, especially where both ends are fast, as they can be readily made in the centre of a tied rope. There are several forms of these useful knots. How to tie a Sheepshank 1. Make a long bight in a topgallant back-stay, or any rope which it is desirable to shorten, and taking a half hitch near each bend, as at a. 2. Rope yarn stops at b, which is desirable to keep it in place till the strain is brought on it. 3. Wire rope cannot be so treated, and it is injurious to hemp rope that is large and stiff. - 37 -
Stopper Knot The Stopper Knot (Basically a double overhand knot) is used to prevent the rope from pulling through a belay or rappel device. There are many cases the stopper knot will prevent the rope from pulling through a device. The stopper knot should also be used with the figure 8 and bowline knots. This knot will help prevent the short end of the rope from pulling through the knot. It should be used anytime the end of the rope could possibly be pulled back through a knot. How to tie a Stopper Knot 1. Start the knot by making a loop, and wrap the short end of the rope around itself twice. 2. Send the short end through the knot 3. Tighten the stopper knot evenly. - 38 -
Tape Knot The tape knot (or water knot if tied with rope), as its name suggests, is used to tie the ends of tape (webbing) together, usually into a loop for an anchor. It is actually just an overhand bend tied in tape, but rarely known as such. How to tie a Tape Knot 1. Start by tying an overhand knot in one piece of tape, making sure not to introduce any twists. 2. Starting from the free end, retrace the original knot with the second piece of tape. 3. Pull tight - 39 -
Thompson Knot This knot is often taught to climbers. It is very simple, but does use a lot of rope. How to tie a Thompson Knot 1. The rope is flaked out to form four loops, one for each limb. 2. The whole bundle of rope is then gathered together and tied with an overhand knot in the middle. - 40 -
Improvised Abseiling 1. Grab your rope and position it like in the picture below. 2. Attach one end of the rope to a sturdy object like a pole, tree trunk, tree branch, etc. 3. Use the method in the first step to rappel. You can slow your descend by holding onto the rope tighter with your right hand This is a rappel without any equipment, this technique should be only used on gentle slopes and rappels that are short and do not require a harness. - 41 -
Improvised Harnesses Some examples are: Triple Bowline, Portuguese Bowline, Spanish Bowline, and Thompson Knot. - 42 -
Lowering Techniques There are three main way to get down from a climb, Walking: Often, climbers get down from the tops of climbs by walking. It is especially common to do this with top-roped climbs, since most have a way to hike to the top to set the anchor. Most multi-pitch lead climbs do not have a way to walk down from every belay station, but there is often a way to walk down from the top. Lowering: Lowering is a Rock Climbing Technique to descend or get down from a climb. It is one of the common methods of getting down wherein a belayer at the bottom ensures that the climber is safely lowered. Abseiling/Rappelling: Abseiling or Rappelling is the technique of descending through the use of a fixed rope. This is either done after a climb (going back to the base of the climb), in trying new climbing routes, or where there is difficult access (e.g. sea cliffs) to the start of the climb. - 43 -
Rope Bridges - 44 -
One Rope Two Ropes - 45 -
Rope Stretcher - 46 -