CLEANING HANDGUNS
CLEANING HANDGUNS If you take pride in your firearm, then you know how important it is to properly maintain your weapon. With good, consistent care, you not only make your gun look good on the outside, but you also keep the mechanics clicking smoothly and efficiently on the inside. The importance of a clean firearm cannot be overstated. In truth, a weapon s malfunctions are most often caused by dirt, rather than a more serious problem with the gun s internal mechanics. By learning the proper way to maintain your firearm, you can correct and perhaps prevent some of the common ailments that can affect your weapon s performance. This is especially true with revolvers. Compared to rifles and shotguns, handguns endure the most abuse during a shooting session because shooters typically take 50 to 100 rounds just to get warmed up. Rifle users, on the other hand, typically shoot no more than 20 to 30 rounds per stint. TOOLS YOU WILL NEED > Eye protection > Bore guide > Pull cable > Patches > Cleaning rod (preferably nylon single-piece) > Brushes > Eyelet/jag > Shop cloths > Lead-removing solvent > Cleaner > Lubricant > Chamber cleaning tool kit > Bore light
CLEANING A REVOLVER As a revolver owner, you may have been told that a good way to clean is to disassemble the pistol, place it in a solvent bath and then slather it in oil. But that is not a recommended method. Too much solvent can dissolve gun grease that may be in the mainspring housing area, and heavy oil is a magnet for dirt. Instead, we recommend the following techniques for cleaning your handgun. But first, the most important step: Make sure the handgun is safe to clean. To clear a weapon, open the action of the firearm and visually and manually check the chamber. CLEANING STEPS 1.Cleaning the cylinder requires the > Open the cylinder and scrub it with a solvent. NOTE: Make sure to use a lead-removing solvent to deep clean the forcing cone, barrel and chambers. This is because most revolver ammunition is either semi-jacketed or not jacketed at all. Although other kinds of cleaners can be effective at eliminating powder residue, they may still leave behind flaky, dark debris. A lead remover can take care of it all. > Clean the cylinder stops (notches on the cylinder) by scrubbing the area with a bristle brush. If this is not effective enough, use a brass scrubbing tool or the end of a wooden match to thoroughly remove the powder residue. 2.Cleaning the forcing cone and barrel requires the > The forcing cone receives the most amount of carbon and powder residue, so make sure to clean it with a good solvent. This area also collects a large amount of lead deposits. > After scrubbing the barrel with solvent, dry thoroughly with a patch from breech to muzzle. Keep in mind that placing oil down the barrel is not necessary. 3.Cleaning the individual chambers requires the > With the cylinder open, clean inside each chamber with a brush and solvent. Next, depress the ejector rod and scrub both the rod and ratchet. Once finished, make sure to completely dry the areas with a clean rag. > To remove lead from the chambers, use a brass brush or a jag with a brass screen. Clean the areas with solvent and dry completely. NOTE: You may want to try the Lewis Lead Remover Pistol and Revolver kit, which includes brass patches and a rubber arbor to clean out the lead deposits imbedded in both the chamber and the bore. This product works well with JB Bore Compound. 4.The next step is cleaning the recoil plate, where the firing pin contacts the primer of the round. Wipe with a dry rag to remove the powder residue, and then scrub with solvent to get rid of any carbon. Remember that the heat mark left on the plate near the firing pin is permanent. 5.Detailed cleaning of the revolver requires the > For deep cleansing, you must first remove the crane by unscrewing the crane screw. Clean the crane with solvent and then add a small amount of oil to the crane, as well as to the ejector rod and spring area. NOTE: Be advised that each revolver has a different method of crane removal, so be sure to research the model you are working on. > Next, remove the grip, use solvent to scrub the exposed areas and then dry with a clean rag. If needed, apply new grease to the main spring. > Remove the screws or use a punch set to open the actual frame, and then spray inside with an acetone-based liquid or Gun Scrubber. If any of the internal areas have old gun grease, reapply with new gun grease. Finally, use the pistol s schematic instructions to reinstall all of the components.
CLEANING A POLYMER PISTOL Most weapons owners probably have a modern polymer pistol in their collection. After all, this is one of the most popular styles of handguns on the market. Although some features are common between models, there can be differences when it comes to disassembly and cleaning. Make sure you check the manual on your revolver before you attempt to clean it. CLEANING STEPS 1.Disassembly of most polymer pistols requires the following: > Start by retaining the slide slightly back and holding it to the rear. At the same time, depress the slide lock. > When you pull the trigger, the slide will be released, along with the barrel assembly. > Depress the rod to take out the spring and guide rod. > Remove the barrel assembly 2.Cleaning the barrel requires the > First, scrub the barrel with solvent. Pay close attention to the feed ramp, as there may be excessive copper fouling or carbon buildup that can create feeding issues. > Use a brush, copper solvent and patches to clean the bore and then dry completely. You do not need to put oil in the chamber or bore. > Oil the barrel lug and outside of the barrel. 3.Cleaning the pistol grip and lower receiver requires the > Scrub the receiver with solvent and then dry with an air hose. Make sure you do not apply excessive oil to the internal trigger mechanism. > Place one drop of oil on each of the four slide rail cuts. 4.Clean the slide by removing all of the carbon and dirt from the slide housing. Once complete, apply a small amount of oil to the slide rails. 5.Cleaning the magazine requires the > Using a punch, depress the retaining pin on the magazine to separate the magazine sleeve from the magazine spring. > Scrub the magazine with a brush and solvent and then dry completely. CLEANING A 1911 PISTOL The John Moses Browning design also known as the 1911 pistol is legendary for many reasons, including its specialized mechanics. Because some of its schematics vary greatly from the other semi-auto polymer pistols and revolvers of today, here are the details on how to properly disassemble and clean this firearm. CLEANING STEPS 1.Removing the slide and barrel requires the > First, pull the slide back, locking it in the open position. After you visually and physically inspect the chamber, remove the magazine. > Because the design has a two-piece guide rod, you will need to use a 5/32 Allen wrench to remove the forward piece. > With the slide forward, and facing the muzzle of the pistol, press the recoil spring plug inward until the barrel bushing is free to be twisted clockwise, until it uncovers completely the recoil spring plug. The recoil spring plug is under pressure from the recoil spring, so keep pressure on the plug, and release the spring pressure slowly. Remove the recoil spring plug and the recoil spring. Remove the barrel bushing by twisting it clockwise until it comes off. > Pull the slide to the rear, until the release lever end is aligned with the small circular notch on the left side of the slide.
> Push the axis of the slide release lever from the right side of the gun toward the left side. When the lever pops out, pull it completely off the frame of the gun. > Remove the recoil spring guide and rotate the barrel link so it is placed directly on top of the barrel. From here, you can remove the barrel from the slide housing. The weapon is now field stripped. 2.Cleaning the barrel requires the > The most significant difference between the 1911 barrel and others is the unique locking lug feature (also found in the Browning Hi-Power), which is important to the short-recoil operation of the pistol. The lugs are located on the top of the barrel and should be thoroughly clean with solvent and a brush. > Clean the bore with a set of brushes and patches, and make sure to keep the barrel and chamber dry. Apply a small amount of lubrication to the locking lug area and barrel. 3.Cleaning the slide requires the > Using solvent, clean the recess lugs inside the top frame and then dry completely. Always inspect if the lugs or the recess areas are worn. > Next, clean the breech face, where erosion can quickly occur. Scrub with solvent and dry completely. You can ignore any heat marks that will typically stain this area. > Clean the slide rails with solvent and run a patch to completely dry the area. Oil this area lightly. > Keep the extractor and extractor channel dry and free of lube. 4.Cleaning the frame requires the > Start by scrubbing the magazine well with solvent and then drying with an air hose or with a clean rag. > After cleaning the rails with solvent, make sure they are completely dry and then apply a small amount of oil. 5. Advanced cleaning requires the > First, remove the grips with a slotted screwdriver or Allen wrench, and then spray the frame with Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber or another aerosol cleaner/degreaser. > Every so often, it s important to clean the firing pin area and extractor: > Depress the firing pin, and remove the plate. NOTE: A newer design of the 1911 is commonly referred to as the Series 80, which includes a firing pin block in this area. The Series 70 does not have this feature. To remove the plate, depress the safety plunger at the same time that you depress the firing pin. The plate should be easy to remove at this point. Make sure these small parts are placed in a magnetic dish or on a dry towel. > Remove the firing pin and extractor from the rear of the slide. > Depress the extractor on the front of the breech face and the firing pin block should just fall out. > Clean these small parts with solvent and completely dry. BASIC STEPS TO PROPER FIREARM MAINTENANCE > Clean barrel and metal parts with a good commercial solvent. > Clean bore until dry patch comes through as clean as possible. > Run oily patch through barrel. > Bore should be cleaned through breech end where possible. > All metal parts should get light coat of oil. > Store in horizontal position. > After storage, run clean patch through bore before firing. > Remove all excess grease and oil.
CLEANING A BREAK-OPEN ACTION SHOTGUN Break-open action shotguns are often the oldest and/or most valuable firearms in an owner s collection. As a result, they typically need a higher amount of care. It is not particularly difficult to clean a break-open shotgun. Most shooters focus on the bore, chamber and choke areas for general maintenance. That s because detailed cleaning of the firing mechanism may not always be necessary. It is separated in large part by the breech block and does not collect a lot of carbon or dirt. In addition, a general rule for any shotgun with a wooden stock (especially ones with ornate engraving) is to never apply solvent to a non-metal part of the firearm. 1.General cleaning tips: 1.Most break-open barrels can be easily removed by using a snap lever at the forend. 2.Hold the barrel and press the release lever as if you are loading the shotgun. This should remove the barrel. 3.When the barrel is detached, the shotgun will be in its three main pieces. 4.If you are performing general bore cleaning, use the same procedure as outlined for autoloading shotguns. 5.After each use, apply new grease to the hinge pin, knuckle, cocking lever pin and front lug. 6.If there are wooden parts, treat the stock like any other wooden piece of furniture by wiping it down with a clean cloth and using wax or polish for a final shine. Note: Be careful not to apply too much petroleum-based gun oil or mineral spirits. Over time, it will ruin the wood s finish. 2. Detailed cleaning tips: 1.If a shotgun has been used in inclement weather, it is recommended that you dissemble the extraction lever from the barrel assembly. Be aware of your model because many require specialized tools. 2.After removing the extractor, scrub with a brush and solvent, preferably acetone-based because that is best for deep cleaning. Soak any rusted parts. 3.Another aspect of deep cleaning is the disassembly of the stock so you can reach the trigger assembly and internal parts. Some gunsmiths recommend this type of maintenance be done once a year. However, it takes special knowledge and tools to remove this part of the shotgun. If you attempt this process, it is advised that you strip the old gun grease with solvent, dry thoroughly and then reapply new grease. 2014. All rights reserved. Except for use in a review, no portion of this book may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form without the express written permission of Sonoran Desert Institute. The scanning, uploading, and distribution of this book by the Internet or any other means without the permisson of Sonoran Desert Institute is illegal and punishable by law. Please respect Sonoran Desert Institute s rights and do not participate in any form of electronic piracy or copyrighted material. Sonoran Desert Institute does not assume any responsibility for the use or misuse of information contained in this book.