Lake Constance/Bodensee: A Three Country European Cycling and Swimming Odyssey. 5 th to 13 th September Information Brochure.

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1 Lake Constance/Bodensee: A Three Country European Cycling and Swimming Odyssey 5 th to 13 th September 2018 Information Brochure Introduction On the evening of Wednesday 5 th September 2018, a band of excited and expectant adventurers will gather in the ancient and historic German city of Constance (Konstanz in German) for the start of what will be a week-long cycling and swimming odyssey around Lake Constance and through parts of Germany, Austria and Switzerland amid decent dollops of swimming. It will be a trip to remember for years to come. The tour is being organised by Mark Otter from Otter Aquatics, a small Brisbane Australia-based aquatics company which, among other things watery, leads swimmingbased tours to a variety of exotic locations in Europe as well as at home in Australia. This information brochure contains the following bits of information: A little about Lake Constance A little about the city of Konstanz Arrival and departure arrangements Our hotel in Konstanz Our stops along the way A preliminary trip schedule, and Notes on cycling and swimming and other bits and pieces Notes on travelling to Konstanz Prices. A little about Lake Constance Called Bodensee in German (which roughly translates as the lake at the bottom - not the bottom of the lake), Lake Constance has been described as an El Dorado for cyclists, gourmets, hikers and water sports enthusiasts. We plan to sample all of these over the course of our tour with the possible exception of hiking (unless we break our bikes). Bodensee is enclosed by three countries: Germany on the northern shore, Austria to the east and Switzerland to the south.

2 Lake Constance has an area of 572 km 2 and is central Europe s largest water reservoir. It is 60 kilometres long, 15 kilometres at its widest and 254 metres at its deepest. The shore line is 273 kilometres long: 173 kilometres in Germany, 28 kilometres in Austria and 72 kilometres in Switzerland. From its origins in the Swiss Alps, the Rhine River (Rhein in German) fills Lake Constance then passes through Konstanz with enormous force (check out the current near the Old Rhine Bridge which separates the old from the new city) before making its way to the Rhine Falls and, more than 1,200 kilometres later, into the North Sea at Rotterdam in the Netherlands. Konstanz is normally acknowledged as the start of the Rhine proper; in fact, distance markers all the way to Rotterdam are measured (in Rheinkilometer) from the Old Rhine Bridge, right in the centre of Konstanz. Lake Constance, overlooking Konstanz to the southeast and with the Swiss alps in the background A little about Konstanz We start and finish our tour in the university city of Konstanz, in the German state of Baden-Württemberg. Konstanz has a population of about 80,000 and is the largest city on Lake Constance. It was originally a stone-age Celtic settlement which the Romans fortified. It then became an important trading centre due to its strategic location at one of Europe s major crossroads. It has a modern history dating back to the 6 th Century CE.

3 The medieval city of Constance (Konstanz) - dripping with history Konstanz holds a special significance in the history of the Catholic Church; and, indeed, the geopolitics of what was then called (at least by Europeans) the known world. From 1414 to 1418, the sometimes bloody and otherwise morally questionable Council of Constance was held which ended the papal schism in the church. It resulted in Martin V becoming the only pope with the chief losing candidate, the Antipope John XXIII, fleeing to Schaffhausen. John was tried for piracy, rape, sodomy, murder, simony and incest. Jan Hus, leader of another major antipope movement, was found guilty of heresy and burned at the stake. Nice one! Council documents also claim that there were some 700 prostitutes plying their trade in Konstanz at the time. So that s why it took four years to hold an election! When you get there, check out the story behind the imposing statue of Imperia, reputedly one of those ladies, at the entrance to the harbour. The story is a harsh satire of the morals of the participants at the Council, where Imperia seduces cardinals and princes and holds power over them all. Konstanz is right on the German/Swiss border and is almost indistinguishable, except for currency and prices, from its Swiss twin Kreuzlingen. Across the centuries, Konstanz has flitted between being identified as part of Switzerland and part of Germany. In fact, one

4 would think that the old city should geographically be part of Switzerland as it s actually on the southern side of the lake and the Rhine. During the Second World War, Konstanz residents tricked allied bombers into thinking it was in neutral Switzerland in order to avoid being bombed. Arrival and departure Travel arrangements for getting to and leaving Konstanz are your own responsibility but you will be in my hands once we meet in Konstanz on the first evening. While there are a number of ways to get to Konstanz, depending on where you are coming from (as my Irish friends would say), the closest international airport is Zürich. While this is in Switzerland, it is only about one hour by train from Konstanz. There is a railway station at Zurich airport with its entrance right in the terminal buiilding. The Zürich-Konstanz train is a regional train, meaning that you cannot pre-book your seats. You can, of course, book your journey if you wish but that is unlikely to be necessary. I plan to simply descend the escalator within the shopping precinct at Zürich airport to the railway station, buy a ticket and jump on the first available train going to Konstanz, which is the end of the line. It will cost you about SFr45 per person. An alternative gateway, especially if you are coming from northern Europe or elsewhere in Germany, is to fly or go by train to the region s second largest city, Friedrichshafen, and then take the one hour trip by fast catamaran ferry to Konstanz. Our hotel in Konstanz Our base in Konstanz will be the Hotel Halm which is right over the road from the Bahnhof (railway station) - so no one can get lost. The Halm is a new building, built in 1874 in Gothic Revival style. It has free Wi-Fi and lots of other things to be expected of a four star hotel - including a sauna of course and a Frühstück (breakfast) to die for. The Frühstück Zimmer (breakfast room) is the lavishly decorated Maurischer Saal ( Moorish Hall ) really something to feast your eyes on over your cornflakes. It really takes less than a minute to cross the road from the station and is no more than five minutes from the harbour. Here are the Halm s contact details: Hotel Halm Konstanz Bahnhofplatz Konstanz Phone: Fax: info@hotel-halm.de

5 Hotel Halm Konstanz Other stops on our journey As we cycle around Lake Constance, we will spend four nights in good standard hotels all with ensuites, wifi, restaurants, included breakfasts and most with saunas. Closer to the time, I will advise which towns and which hotels we will stop in, including contact details, but the choice of towns will be something like the following. They are all at least three star standard. In Germany: Überlingen, Meersberg, Immenstaat, Friedrichshafen, Lindau In Austria: Lochau, Bregenz, Hard In Switzerland: Rorschach, Arbon, Romanshorn, Güttingen General view of Lake Constance/Bodensee showing Zürich and Schaffhausen in blue and some possible overnight stops along the way in red

6 Approximate schedule To give you some idea of what s in store, here is a tentative schedule: Wednesday 5 th September. 6pm. We will meet in the foyer of the Hotel Halm in Konstanz over welcome drinks to meet your travel companions for the next week and to go over details of the week s program. I will also issue you with your pannier bags, handlebar bags, maps and cycling directions for the week Thursday 6 th September. Free to get over jetlag, discover this delightful old city and perhaps go for a swim in the lake (I can take you to an excellent open water swimming venue in one of Konstanz s suburbs) Friday 7 th September. We embark on a boat from nearby Konstanz harbour for a day-long trip to the town of Schaffhausen, at the western end of the lower lake (Untersee), including the Rhine Falls. The boat trip will take about three and a half hours. The sights to be seen from this trip are amazing! We can get lunch on the boat or in Schaffhausen. The boat leaves Konstanz at 9am every day and gets to Schaffhausen after criss-crossing many times between the Swiss side and the German side of the lake. After a couple of hours taking in the sights and lunch, we will take a Swiss Railways (SBB) train for the hour-long trip back to Konstanz via Keuzlingen Saturday 8 th September. We collect our rental bicycles from the premises of our partner organisation, Radweg-Reisen, on the outskirts of Konstanz, have any adjustments made by their expert mechanics and start cycling Sunday 9 th September. We will pass through the German states of Baden- Württemberg and Bavaria Monday 10 th September. We will cross the Austrian border and spend a night in one of the towns in the Austrian state of Vorarlberg. Tuesday 11 th September. We will continue on our way, passing across the Swiss border at the Alps Rhine and spending the night in Switzerland Wednesday 12 th September. This will be our last day of cycling when we continue along the southern (Swiss) coast of Lake Constance, re-cross the border into Germany and return to Konstanz. When we have recovered from our week-long exertion, we will gather for a farewell dinner Thursday 13 th September. Our holiday will now be over and you may choose to depart Konstanz this day or spend one or more days checking out all the places

7 we missed earlier. Extra night s accommodation at the Hotel Halm will be available at a discounted rate. Cycling The cycling will be easy. This will not be an athletic event, rather it will be a cultural, historical and sightseeing tour which we just happen to do by bike with frequent plunging of ourselves into the lake. We will traverse between 30 and 50 kilometres per day, mostly on the flat as the cycleways skirt the lake shore for the most part. If you are moderately fit and occasionally get in the saddle, you will have no difficulty. The group will ride at the pace of the slowest cyclist; we will never leave anyone behind. However, if you wish to extend yourself, there will be plenty of opportunities to break from the pack to explore further afield (I can offer some suggestions) and we can arrange to meet up further along the way. Our bikes will be hybrids (see the photo below). They will have 24 speed derailleur gears of the European type with front and rear brakes (which are on the opposite handlebars to those in Australia). They are not what we Australians call road bikes and not built for speed but they are tough, comfortable and perfectly adequate for our purposes. They are all quite new Radweg Reisen has a policy of replacing them every three years. They have ordinary pedals meaning that they are not suitable for the clip-on type of cycle shoes and they do not have toe clips. All bikes have lights powered by hub dynamos. The bikes have comfortable saddles but, of course, if you haven t done much cycling recently, you may need to break in your backside before you leave home. This is a step-through bike. Cross-bar bikes are also available as are e-bikes You may prefer to wear cycling shorts ( knicks ), complete with chamois inserts, in order to protect your vulnerable bits. It really does make a difference if you are cycling for extended periods. If you don t want to be identified with the lycra set and are embarrassed

8 to wear them around town, you might like to include ordinary shorts in your pannier bags to put on over the top when you reach civilisation. You may also want to bring some anti-chafing cream as well as some cycling gloves to reduce the vibration on your hands and arms. The bikes do not have water bottle carriers, so it would be a good idea to put your water bottle in your handlebar bag. On our first full day, we will be fitted with our bikes by the experts at Radweg Reisen. They will take the time to ensure that we have the most appropriate bike for our build and they will brief us on how to ride them. We will do minor maintenance enroute, such as changing a flat tyre or re-attaching the chain. There will be a repair kit for our group and there are a number of bike repair shops along the way. Radweg Reisen will handle major repairs. Most of our cycling will be on cycle ways but not always. Of course, those silly Europeans drive and ride on the wrong side of the road, so we will need to be especially careful when riding on roads and crossing them. We must also stick to the right side of cycle ways. It will be the European summer holidays and Europeans like to go on cycling holidays in summer, so we must expect quite a lot of cycle traffic on our way. Cycling is much more common in Europe than in Australia and there are many more facilities for cyclists than at home. There are, for example, special cycling direction signs on most of the roads and cycle ways but we have to keep a sharp lookout sometimes, such as in a town, not to miss them. There will also be special cyclists pit stops for that all-important lunch, snack or bier/schnapps. You will be issued with a weatherproof pannier bag and a handlebar bag which will be adequate for a day s cycling to carry wallet, passport, camera, jumper, rain jacket, sunscreen, sunnies, a change of clothes, your lunch and of course your togs and towel. Of course, you will also have your Otter Aquatics backpack which you can wear while cycling if you wish. Electric bikes are available as an optional extra. Please let me know if you would like one. Helmets Helmets are not compulsory in Europe and most adult cyclists will not wear one. It is up to you whether you do or not, but your Australian travel insurance company may take a dim view of any claim you may make if you break your head while not wearing one. Check your policy. You will need to bring your own helmet from Australia (or buy one locally). Even if you decide not to wear a helmet, it is a good idea to wear a cap as it will be summer and we don t want to collect a German skin cancer.

9 Swimming We plan to swim in the lake at least once per day. Almost anywhere in the lake is suitable for swimming, except for areas busy with boat traffic. I will select some good swimming spots along the way but all of us can also keep an eye out for good spots as we go along. There are many specially-designated swimming spots (called Strandbads which have toilets/change rooms and often - licensed eateries/drinkeries) all around the lake. But we are not restricted to swimming in them. If you re not used to it, wild swimming is wonderful! How far you swim is totally up to you and, because we may not always be together, water safety will be your own responsibility. It is always a good idea to swim in company especially if you are going offshore for any distance. If we swim in a non-designated area, it is strongly advisable to stay away from boat traffic. Boat skippers will be unlikely to see a head at water level. And do wear one of your Otter Aquatics hi-vis swimming caps. Changing into and out of your togs will often have to be under a towel you might need to get in some practice if you haven t done this since you were a child. All our swimming will be non-competitive (unless you want to challenge one or more of your fellow trippers, that is). The lake water quality is always very good and the water temperature in early September will be warm-ish; about 22 degrees. The maximum air temperature for September averages 25 degrees. Luggage arrangements Our items of luggage will be mysteriously spirited from one overnight stop to another. We will leave them tagged with the name Otter Aquatics each morning at our hotel s reception and they will be at the next hotel on our arrival that night. We must leave our bags unlocked as we do pass through three countries (in the unlikely event that customs do open our bags, we will be informed). We need to keep each piece of our luggage to be transported from one overnight stop to the next to no more than 20 kilograms to save the backs of our couriers. We will have plenty of room in our panniers and handlebar bags to pack our daily needs. Also, we may choose to have large items of luggage left back in Konstanz at the Hotel Halm, just taking the items we need for the week in a smaller bag. Maps and tour booklets I will have these for each of us and I will give them to you with your panniers and handlebar bags at our welcome meeting on the evening of 5 th September. The booklet will have instructions on where to go and how to find our various accommodations as well as some pointers on places of interest on the way.

10 Travel insurance Travel insurance is compulsory and is your own responsibility. I will ask you to provide me with a copy of your policy before we start (you may it to me before leaving Australia to save time and trouble later). You may need to double check your own policy document but non-competitive cycling and swimming are covered in most travel insurance policies. Smart Traveller I recommend that you register with the Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade s Smart Traveller service ( You will receive up-to-date ed travel advisories on the countries you will be visiting and the department will know where you are should you require Australian diplomatic missions to provide consular assistance. Registration and indemnity When you register and pay your deposit, I will ask you to complete a form for each guest so that I have details of your contact details back home. Also, while Otter Aquatics has adequate insurance, on your registration form I will ask you to certify that you undertake the activities at your own risk and that you accept responsibility for any injuries you may suffer in the course of the tour. Power supplies in Germany, Austria and Switzerland Power in all three countries is 230V 50Hz so your Australian appliances will be compatible. However, you will need a Type F adaptor this is the standard European two round pin system. Contacts I will probably not have a local SIM card for my mobile phone so I will be able to be contacted on my Australian number ( ). I expect to be able to access my address (mark@otteraquatics.com.au) every evening. It is strongly advisable to switch off data on your Australian mobile while you are overseas. But do have global roaming switched on. A text message or short phone call does not cost the earth. Price and payments These prices are an indication only at this stage - I will have firm prices when I ask you for the balance of your fees. The basic price per person will likely be A$2,000. This assumes twin or double share accommodation. Single accommodation will attract a supplement of $500. Electric bikes will attract an extra fee of course. As soon as you indicate to me your commitment to the trip, I will invoice you for a deposit of 50% of the fee, payable by 31 st December I will issue invoices for the

11 balance in mid April 2017, payable by 31 st May. The amount of the balance will depend on whether you opt for single accommodation and whether you would like an electric bike. What things are included in the price? Bicycle hire. See above for details of our chariots for the week. Or you may bring your own bike if you wish (there will be a reduced price in that case) Accommodation. Eight nights accommodation: 5 th to 12 th September inclusive Day trip by boat and train on Friday 7 th September to the northern Swiss town of Schaffhausen at the western end of Lake Constance and then onto the Rhine Falls (Rheinfall), the largest and most spectacular falls in Europe Guidebooks and maps Mysterious spiriting of our luggage from one night s accommodation to the next Welcome drinks on the evening of Wednesday 5 th September and a farewell dinner on the evening of Wednesday 12 th September Boat trip Wallhausen to Überlingen in order to get ourselves and our bikes to the northern shore of Lake Constance Otter Aquatics t-shirt, backpack, cap and swimming cap Australian German-speaking guide (well, he remembers a bit of German. But don t worry, we ll muddle through somehow). What are the extras that you will have to provide/pay for yourself? Getting yourselves to and from Konstanz from Australia or wherever You may choose to take a train or a boat for any leg of our tour (bikes are permitted on trains and boats, sometimes with an additional charge) All lunches and evening meals, except for the farewell dinner on our last night. As a guide, you should budget for for an evening meal and a little less for lunch Electric bikes are available for hire from Radweg Reisen (no value judgements will be passed if you chose to hire an electric bike in fact, I may borrow it from you at some stage) Swimming gear, goggles, hat/cap, sunnies, sunscreen, jumper/jacket, towel, walking shoes, camera Clothes, medications and personal stuff. Cancellation policy As this trip is conducted under a special arrangement with Radweg Reisen, no cancellations will be possible. Substitutes, however, will be accepted right up to the start of the trip. I will provide a more complete program closer to the start of our trip as well as some language notes.

12 A little about me and Otter Aquatics I retired from my serial careerist occupations of naval officer, diplomat, academic and international environmentalist in 2010 and decided to stay in one place for a while and do something that I enjoy doing. So I took my lifelong interest in swimming and became a swimming instructor, coach, surf lifesaver and water safety trainer. I set up Otter Aquatics in 2012 to concentrate on teaching adults, especially adults with a fear of the water. I encourage my students, once they become confident in the pool, to get into real swimming, i.e. the open water. It then seemed logical to organise tours to wonderful parts of the world and to see these places from the vantage of the water. Having taken part in international swimming tours myself (especially the Hellespont, aka the Dardanelles, in Turkey in 2014), I decided to organise international swimming tours of my own. Lake Orta in 2015 was the first one and Lake Constance in 2016 was the second. Also, through our counterpart, Strel Swimming Adventures, I organised ocean swimming tours of the Dalmatian Coast of Croatia in 2015, the Fjords and Coves of Montenegro in 2016 and Slovenian Lakes and Rivers as well as Lake Constance again as well as Italy s Lake Orta - in Don t hesitate to contact me if you have any questions. Ich freue mich darauf Sie in den Bodensee im Jahr 2017 zu sehen! Mark Otter mark@otteraquatics.com.au

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