Quick-Clips NZMGA e-news

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1 President s Update: Hi all, Amazing how things get busy in the "off season". Your committee has been hard at work behind the scenes as well as your Administration officer Sue, and now we have a new training officer Jono Gillan. Thanks a heap Anna for your sterling work as TO and the quick and slick pass over to Jono. The training and certification scheme is a major part of this Association s work and role, so having this sorted in a timely and professional manner was excellent. Please all support Jono in the TO role. SMS, yep this new acrynom is now embedded in our vocabulary. This has brought and brings new challenges to the inter-relationship between workplace/industry and the NZMGA professional, terrain and supervision guidelines - as if we needed to add to our work load eh. Specific work is underway to look at this and being spearheaded my committee member (and new dad) Tim Steward. A special thanks to our TIA representative Rachael Moore. Having Rachael as a conduit into the Wellington and Worksafe space has been a very beneficial thing for me and this Association :-) Work on the "de dauntifying" of the T&C scheme to prospective guides (esp climbing guides) is ongoing with many prongs to this being pursued - everything from avalanche qualifications to IFMGA technical subcommittee clarification to website appearance is being looked at, workshopped and discussed. This all takes time and effort - once again, thanks Committee for this. Martin Hess has been working to make sure that the NZMGA is in tune with the hard Ice guide industry - nice one :-) The Alpine Trekking Guide qualification and its scope is being closely looked at in regards to NZ qualifications and in respect to enquiries made to the TSC for specific endorsed terrain, and generally how it fits into the "whole outdoor guiding/instruction scene". I can tell you, that if you want to keep busy in your "spare time", dealing with a raft of interesting and often quite complicated issues and finding solutions for going forward then the NZMGA committee is the place for you. I am pleased that people are already thinking about the October Annual General Meeting and discussing succession of committee. To all those who continue to do NZMGA training, and place themselves forward for assessment - well done. To all the NZMGA guides working hard in the industry over the kiwi summer, excellent job, and take a breath before a hopefully great winter arrives. I will be heading to Iceland and Switzerland again - will be interesting to see the impacts of global warming on the glaciers and terrain... Stay warm, stay safe. I salute your professionalism Cheers Gary Gary Dickson President of the New Zealand Mountain Guides Association president@nzmga.org.nz mobile:

2 IFMGA Sicily Meeting May 2016 Vice-President Jane Morris in the distinctive NZMGA jacket. Report next issue. 125th anniversary of NZAC Congratulations IFMGA Elke Braun-Elwert Jonathan Gillan In 2016 we celebrate the 125th anniversary of the NZAC. I am delighted to share with you an exciting initiative of the Club in hosting the 3rd global Sustainable Summits Conference in New Zealand in August. The conference is open for registration and the website gives details Assistant Alpine Trekking Guide Bia Bouchinas Kirsten Chalmers Mike Howard Facebook Spread the word, upload the piccies this is the public page. New Articles in DropBox A reminder that the link for these, and other Presentations is: 2

3 Prusik diameter I have been requested by the NZMGA committee to put together a short summary on Prusik diameter (in the context of backing up an abseil), so here goes historical usage along with recommended cord diameter and number of turns from published sources. For example, the bulk of recommendations for the classic Prusik fall within the range of 5mm to 7mm with 2 to 4 turns. There seem to be a lot of conflicting opinions online as to what an optimal prusik diameter might be. Generally the recommendations fall within 50-70% of the climbing rope diameter. For 10mm ropes, this would equate to 5-7mm Prusik cord; for 9mm ropes, 5-6mm cord; for 8mm ropes, 4-6mm cord and so on the thinner the rope, the thinner the Prusik needed to grip it. The other school of thought is to simply add more wraps to the Prusik knot for more grip. Obviously there is a lower limit on what is deemed thick enough in terms of breaking strain and the condition of the rope and cord being used is also an important factor (age, wet/icy/dirty, etc.). There is more than just the Prusik diameter at play here Also worth considering is that the ropes for which Prusik knots were originally designed behave quite differently from what we typically use today and the breaking strength for a given cord diameter has improved over time thanks to modern fibres. In their testing (performed on 8.9mm, 11mm and 14mm dynamic ropes and 9mm, 11mm and 12mm static ropes), they found a clear preference for 6mm over 7mm cord (5mm cord was never tested), with the auto-block/french Prusik performing better than other knots in all test cases (it should be noted that they placed a strong importance on the Prusik being releasable under load). An interesting article well worth a read is A scientific study of common friction knots by Dr. Ron Farmer. (As a tinyurl The authors aim was to investigate the optimal thickness of accessory cord and the most suitable number of turns within each knot, specifically for the purpose of protecting an abseil with a self-belay for less skilled individuals (in their case local bushwalking club members). They provide a summary of various knots and their Just hanging around on ATG Bia Boucinhas 3

4 Their overriding conclusion is hardly surprising: There is a clear need for detailed examination and checking of one s personal choice [type of knot, cord diameter and number of turns] in any given setup. Their results show that there is a lot of variability within the precise conditions tested and discourage rote memorization of specific setups as this can easily lead to possible subsequent misuse by inexperienced individuals. There is certainly scope for more testing, specifically on thinner modern ropes (dynamic, but also static) typically used in mountaineering today, along with alpine specific conditions and differences in setups such as using a Prusik above and below the belay device. So where does this leave us as guides instructing our clients? The standard advice that a knot should be tested for suitability prior to use, goes without saying, but this also means that we set our clients up with equipment that will work safely in as large a range of configurations as possible (while still being practical). Ensuring clients have a solid understanding of how to test their setup safely before use and how they can improve it if required (add more turns, use a different diameter or type of cord, matching Prusik to different ropes, etc.), beyond just rote learning particular setups, will certainly help. Elke Braun-Elwert Wanaka Rock Roadside Recreation Reserve - Concessionaire Use At a recent meeting with the Wanaka Rock Climbing Club (WRC) it was highlighted that DOC concession holders were unclear on their rights in respect of use of the Roadside Recreation Reserve. I can clarify that the Roadside Recreation Reserve is not closed and Concession holders may use the Reserve under the terms and conditions of their concession. It is acknowledged that Concession holders are responsible for the assessment of the risks - including the natural hazards that exist, and the care and management of those under their supervision while on the Reserve. The Reserve is now managed as a Backcountry Adventures (BCA) site that means the expected visitor group is people with a reasonable level of backcountry skills and experience. Visitors can expect basic track standards and accept a degree of risk and discomfort. The Department will continue to keep you and others users informed of the risks including the natural hazards it is aware of at this site through appropriate signage and information on our website. We ask that you also advise us of any new hazards you become aware of. Signage will be installed this winter advising that natural hazards exist including the unstable rocks and emphasising visitors need to make their own hazard assessment on each visit. The stile and fence will be reinstated in the coming months. Roadside Recreation Reserve Education Provider Use Note that if education providers are contracting external guides/ instructors to conduct the activity, DOC requires the contractor to hold a concession to operate on public conservation lands. We require that the following conditions be adhered to when students are using rockclimbing sites on public conservation lands in Wanaka: 4

5 1. The development of new rock climbing routes and areas on the land requiring the use of fixed protection (i.e. rock bolts, pitons and anchor chains) requires prior approval from DOC and could involve consultation with the Wanaka Rock Climbing Club. 2. That size of groups to be restricted to 12 per crag in total. 3. Toilets within the area are to be used. 4. The rights of other members of the public, to use and enjoy these areas, are to be respected. 5. Cutting any vegetation on/to existing sites is not permitted. Students are not to interfere with, remove, damage, or endanger the natural features, animals, plants or historic resources in any area administered by the Department. 6. All rubbish is to be removed from the area and be disposed of in an environmentally sound manner. 7. If sites of cultural or historical significance are located, the Department reserves the right to prohibit or restrict any activity relating to those sites. Please contact me if you have any questions. Kind regards Annette Auditing of Adventure Activities - Technical Experts TIA s contract with WorkSafe includes goodpractice workshops for technical experts (auditors are welcome too), which I ll be facilitating. The aim is to build consistency in the auditing of adventure activities. The workshops will discuss sector good practice how to determine it, what written sources we should use to measure activities against, and what weight to give the various types of documents. The workshops are free but participants will need to arrange their own travel. The details are: 24 May Queenstown Airport 12-3pm Remarkables Boardroom (upstairs) 27 May Christchurch Airport 1 4pm The Meeting Rooms 10 De Haviland Way Room 2 If people can make it, they should respond to me at: stu.allan@tianz.org.nz NOLS First Aid Annette Grieve Senior Ranger/ Supervisor Community Te Papa Atawhai / Department of Conservation Central Otago District (Wanaka office) P.O. Box 93, WANAKA Phone: (03) Conservation for prosperity Tiakina te taiao, kia puawai < NOLS NZ will be offering a Wilderness First Responder Refresher Course at our campus in the Aniseed Valley, Richmond from 7-9 September, at a cost of USD 300 (tuition only). Further information and sign up at We will also offer a Bridge Course upgrading the PHEC to a full WFR. This will run from 5-9 September at a cost of USD jorn_haack@nols.edu 5

6 For Sale Health and Safety at Work Act in force from 4 April 2016 Zamberlan Denali-6000m Double Boot Size: EU45 30 days +/- Antarctic Use, in good clean condition. They are nice ridged platforms for winter ice and standing around instructing and the like. They are too large for me and hence I need to move them on. The Health and Safety at Work Act (HSWA) came into force on 4 April 2016, replacing the Health and Safety in Employment (HSE) Act There are a number of important changes which operators, audit bodies, and auditors should be aware of. RRP$1000NZD I need to sell them soon! 1. For Sale $ [+ Free Postage in Sth. NZ] Gideon Geerling <gideon.geerling@gmail.com> Adventure Activities Regulations 2016 new offence added Changes to Reporting Requirements Changes to Audit Standard Clarification About Snow Activities Lower Whanganui River Bia Boucinhas 6

7 Situations Vacant Situations Vacant Mountain Guide Alpine Guides is inviting applications from IFMGA or climbing guides for full-time seasonal positions for the coming summer. Employment is from November 2016 to 28 February Dates are flexible around personal circumstances/bookings. Work will be varied, including technical ascents of up to grade 3+, and the ability to coordinate and run instruction courses, and supervise junior guides. Accommodation is available at Aoraki Mount Cook for those wishing to live here Hard Ice Guide Alpine Guides is inviting applications from NZMGA qualified Hard Ice Guides for a full-time seasonal position for the coming summer. Employment is from November 2016 to March Dates are flexible around personal circumstances/bookings. Work will mainly be heli-hike guiding on the Tasman Glacier. Applicants with NZMGA Alpine Trekking qualifications will have an advantage and possibilities for a greater variety of work. Accommodation is available at Aoraki Mount Cook for those wishing to live here. Applicants for this position must have NZ residency or a valid NZ work visa. Please send your CV and details to Guiding Director: Dave McKinley: dave@alpineguides.co.nz Position available with Southern Alps Guiding - Aoraki Mt Cook over the winter months from early July. The job would require the assistant guide to work in the following disciplines: Assistant Ski Guide (Heliski and Tasman Glacier Skiing) Snowshoeing half-day trips Heli Hiking Tasman Ice Accommodation available. Send CV to Charlie at mountcook@xtra.co.nz Thanks all for this issue: For Admin issues/queries please contact: Sue Atkinson admin@nzmga.org.nz For Training contact Jono Gillan training@nzmga.org 7