Fatalities in Climbing - Boulder V. Schöffl

Transcription

1 Fatalities in Climbing - Boulder 2016 V. Schöffl

2 Evaluation of Injury and Fatality Risk in Rock and Ice Climbing: 2

3 Climbing: Injury Risk Study Type of climbing (geographical location) Injury rate (per 1000h) Injury severity (Bowie, Hunt et al. 1988) Traditional climbing, bouldering; some rock walls 100m high (Yosemite Valley, CA, USA) 37.5 a Majority of minor severity using ISS score <13; 5% ISS (Schussmann, Lutz et al. 1990) Mountaineering and traditional climbing (Grand Tetons, WY, USA) 0.56 for injuries; 0.13 for fatalities; incidence 5.6 injuries/10000 h of mountaineering 23% of the injuries were fatal (NACA 7) b (Schöffl and Winkelmann 1999) Indoor climbing walls (Germany) NACA 2; 1 NACA 3 (Wright, Royle et al. 2001) Overuse injuries in indoor climbing at World Championship NS NACA 1-2 b (Schöffl and Küpper 2006) Indoor competition climbing, World championships NACA 1; 1 NACA 2 1 NACA 3 No fatality (Gerdes, Hafner et al. 2006) Rock climbing NS NS 20% no injury; 60% NACA I; 20% >NACA I b (Schöffl, Schöffl et al. 2009) Ice climbing (international) 4.07 for NACA I-III 2.87/1000h NACA I, 1.2/1000h NACA II & III None > NACA III (Nelson and McKenzie 2009) Rock climbing injuries, indoor and outdoor (NS) Measures of participation and frequency of exposure to rock climbing are not specified (Backe S 2009) Indoor and outdoor climbing activities 4.2 (overuse syndromes accounting for 93% of injuries) Mostly NACA I-II b, 11.3% hospitalization NS Neuhhof / Schöffl (2011) Acute Sport Climbing injuries (Europe) 0.2 Mostly minor severity Schöffl et al. (WMED 2013) Indoor sport climbing ( Indoor Climbing Wall Visits in 5 Years) UIAA 2 13 UIAA 3 2 UIAA 4 No fatality Schöffl, IFSC MedCom IFSC World Cup all UIAA 2 No fatality

4 Fatalities: Traditional and sport climbing German Alpine Club reported 7 deaths during 2006 and 2007 (no differentiation between disciplines eg. sport, trad, ice). Bowie et al.: 13 of 220 injured climbers died - a case fatality rate of 6%. Bowie`s Yosemite date are in accordance with the results of Hubicka for European climbing areas. Josephsen et al.: prospective study on bouldering reported no fatalities at all. Schöffl et al: Indoor climbing and World Cup 2012 competition climbing: no fatalites Hartmann and Schöffl 2014 (in progress): 584 climbers one year prospectively no fatality, 66 injuries 4

5 German Alpine Club 2012/2013 5

6 German Alpine Club 2012/2013 6

7 German Alpine Club 2012/2013 7

8 Fatalities: Traditional and sport climbing German Alpine Club 2012 Climbing fatalities Overall / 1000h Trad/alpine climbing 3 fall 1 cardiorespiratory distress 1 avalanche 1 sport climbing / bouldering 0 indoor climbing 0 8

9 Mountaineering Schussmann et al.: incidence of 0.13 fatalities per 1000 h DAV 2013: 5 per year, per 1000 h Weinbruch et al.: lifetime risk of a fatal accident for elite mountaineers is 0.203, see also table. 9

10 High Peaks: Weinbruch et al

11 Injuries and Fatalities in Ice Climbing Schöffl et al. Sports Med

12 Drytooling DAV : Rock and Ice Climbing 12.8% of all injuries, Hiking and climbing showed with 0.1 doctor attendances per 1000 h of sport performance the lowest injury risk! Fatalities not further evaluated 12

13 Ice Climbing Accidents US, Canada USA Accidents reported Canada Accidents reported Injured 92 Fatilities 30 (appr. 1/year) Accidents in North American Mountaineering (volume 9, number 1, issue 59, 2006) 13

14 Drytooling Ice Climbing Accidents in Switzerland In 6 years 48 persons registred through mountain rescue 2 deaths through falls 3 deaths through avalanches 1 death through ice fall (appr. 1/year) Mosimann, U. (2006) Notfälle beim Eisklettern. Bergundsteigen. (4):

15 Conclusion Ice Climbing Ice climbing is a discipline with high objective risk potential, but with a low numbers of injuries and fatalities Obviously the higher risk is compensated by the climbers by decreased readiness to assume risk and increased cautioness The risk of fatal accidents can not yet be defined. Canadian and Swiss data indicate one fatal accident per year There is potential to further decrease the incidences Further research necessary, actually UIAA MedCom: Ice Climbing competitions Schwarz, Schöffl

16 Evaluation of Injury and Fatality Risk in Rock and Ice Climbing: 16 Schöffl et al.2010, Sports Medicine

17 Evaluation of Injury and Fatality Risk in Rock and Ice Climbing: UIAA MedCom Score Schöffl et al.2010, UIAA Score 17

18 Evaluation of Injury and Fatality Risk in Rock and Ice Climbing: Fatality risk Schöffl et al.2010, UIAA Score 18

19 Future research Prospective cohort analysis 19

20 Dedicated to many friends lost: We will always remember you, RIP and many more