UPRISING. Section Meeting- October 12 th Book Launch Edmund Hillary: A Biography by Mike Gill. October 2017

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1 Section Meeting- October 12 th Book Launch Edmund Hillary: A Biography by Mike Gill UPRISING The Monthly Newsletter of the Canterbury/Westland Section of the New Zealand Alpine Club October 2017

2 Contents Uprising Newsletter of the Canterbury/Westland section, New Zealand Alpine Club October 2017 Contributions are more than welcome. Please send to by the 20 th of each month. Thanks! Page Section meetings Club trips and events Reel Rock Film Tour...8 Notices....9 Location: Cashmere Club, 50 Colombo St. Time: 7:30 pm, talk starts at 8:00 pm. October 12 th Book Launch Edmund Hillary A Biography by Mike Gill Join us in the Cashmere Club to enjoy an evening with Aucklander Mike Gill to celebrate the launch in the South Island of his latest book, a biography of his long-time friend Ed Hillary. Mike will treat us to a mini-lecture on Ed and the origins/scope of the book followed by a book signing session. Books will be available on the night for $50 (Normal retail $60) on a CASH ONLY basis. The Cashmere Club bar has eft-post and/or an ATM so you may be able to get cash there. Fruit juice and nibbles will be provided..all alcoholic drinks to be purchased at the bar as usual. November 8 th Reel Rock Film Tour for details see page 8. Cover: Brian Cresswell and Sean Jolliffe climbing above the gap on Rome Ridge. Photo: Chris Osauskas 2

3 Upcoming club trips and events November 4 th (backup day 5 th )- Beginners Rock Climbing Course ( Rock One ) Please contact Clayton on nzacinstructionandgearhire@gmail.com 25 th November (backup 26 th ) - Sport Lead Climbing Course (Rock 2) Please contact Clayton on nzacinstructionandgearhire@gmail.com 23 rd December - Tasman Glacier Climbing Contact Matt Buckley for details at buckmatthews73@gmail.com 6 th October Moonlight Traverse from Mount Bealey to Avalanche Peak - Contact Jonathan Tye at tyster8@hotmail.com for more information. Lead a Trip: If you would like to lead a trip for the club, alpine, rock climbing, cycling or otherwise, contact Andrew Barrett: andrew.barrett@liquidvoice.co.nz Further trip details on following page. Mid Week Rock Climbing A new and exciting format from September (day light savings start) onwards. Instead of one set evening each week, we are hoping to be able to offer people a choice of two nights each week and the nights will vary depending on who is looking after the group. We believe by doing this instead of the old system, it will give people more opportunities to get out climbing and we welcome people of all abilities from beginners to experts. A few things to note when rock climbing with the mid week group helmets are compulsory when climbing and belaying (if you don t have a helmet, please source one or talk to the climbing co-ordinator and they will try and have one available). Also, for those new to climbing and not sure on how to belay, we can assist in this so please ask if you are not sure. We now also have available, two top rope kits (each with a rope, biners and slings), and these will be available each week for the person in charge to use rather than their own equipment and for those climbers who don t want to lead but top rope instead. Climbing will usually run from approximately 4.30 pm onwards (depending on the person in charge on the night), outdoors if fine and during daylight savings hours or indoors if the weather is no good and outside of daylight savings hours. We also welcome and would appreciate people assisting from time to time on a roster basis rather than relying on the same people every week having to look after the climbing group so please contact Clayton if you are able to help out (it s not too much of a difficult task to look after things and we can run through what is required). If you are keen to attend and are on the google climbing group already, we will out at the start of the week with which nights we are running climbing and who is in charge and their contact details. If you would like to be on the group list, please Clayton on claytongarbes@hotmail.com or by texting on All welcome, including non members. 3

4 Moonlight Traverse from Mount Bealey to Avalanche Peak 6 th October Join me on a full moon traverse from Mount Bealey to Avalanche Peak. If it s good weather conditions then we should get some awesome views from the ridge under the moonlight. The plan is to leave Christchurch after work on Friday 6the October around 5 to 5:30pm. On arrival in Arthurs Pass we will drop off our sleeping gear and food at the NZAC lodge. We will be looking to head off about 8pm, going up the Bealey Spur track to Mount Bealye. Here we will gain the ridge leading us onto Lyell peak and then Avalanche peak. There will be a couple of trickier sections on the ridge which will require people to have good crampon and ice axe skills. We will then descend down either Avalanche track or Scott's track back to the NZAC lodge for a good sleep before heading back to Christchurch. I foresee the route taking around 8 or 9 hours so would be back at the hut about 4/5pm. Contact Jonathan Tye at tyster8@hotmail.com for more information. Somewhere on the Avanlanche Bealey traverse. Photo: Jonothan Tye 4

5 Beginners Rock Climbing Course (Rock One) November 4 th (backup day 5 th ) A course designed for either those making the transition from indoor top roping to outside climbing or for complete beginner climbers. This will be a full day course on the Port Hills of Christchurch under the tuition of qualified volunteer instructors and a cost of $50 for NZAC members or $75 for non members and open to all ages from 16 upwards. The course will cover the following only: Balance, movement and technique on rock. Safe belaying. Top rope climbing. Abseiling. Equipment and its use. Course equipment required as follows: Harness. Rock shoes. Climbing helmet ( not a kayak or bike helmet ). Belay device and screw gate carabiner ( HMS or Pear shaped ). Safety chain or anchor chain and extra screw gate carabiner. Prussic 1.25m total length. You must have at a minimum, your own harness and rock shoes, with the C/W Section able to provide all other equipment on the list if requested but this is in limited supply and on a first come basis so we encourage you all to source as much equipment as possible. Upon your first contact please provide your full name, address and phone number and if you are a member or non member of the NZAC and a brief bio on your climbing ability. A registration form, gear list and bank details for payment will then be sent if there are still spaces available ( there is a maximum of 8 spots only for this course ). You must also be available for the back up day in case weather postpones the original day and a full refund will only be given if you have to withdraw, if we are able to find a replacement in time for your spot. Please contact Clayton on nzacinstructionandgearhire@gmail.com 5

6 Sport Lead Climbing Course (Rock 2) 25 th November (backup 26 th ) A course designed for those making the transition from indoor or outdoor top rope climbing to sport lead climbing. This course IS NOT a beginners course and a knowledge of lead belaying ( not with a gri gri ) would be preferred but this can also be taught or refreshed for you on this course. This will be a full day course on the Port Hills of Christchurch under the tuition of qualified volunteer instructors and a cost of $50 for NZAC members or $100 for non members and open to all ages from 16 upwards. The course will cover the following only: Balance and movement on rock. Placing gear. Lead belaying. Sport lead climbing. Setting up sport anchors. Transition at the anchor station. Abseiling. Equipment. Course equipment required as follows: Harness ( please provide yourself ). Rock shoes ( please provide yourself ). Climbing helmet ( not a kayak or bike helmet ). Belay device ( not a gri gri ) and screw gate carabiner ( HMS or Pear Shaped ). Safety chain or anchor chain and extra screw gate carabiner. Prussic 1.25 m total length. Third ( smaller ) screw gate carabiner. You must have at a minimum, your own harness and rock shoes, with the C/W section able to provide all other equipment on the list if requested but this is in limited supply and on a first come basis so we encourage you all to source as much equipment as possible. Upon your first contact please provide your full name, address and phone number and if you are a member or non member of the NZAC and a brief bio on your climbing ability. A registration form, gear list and bank details for payment will then be sent if there are still spaces available ( there is a maximum of 8 spots only for this course ). You must also be available for the back up day in case weather postpones the original day and a full refund will only be given if you have to withdraw, if we are able to find a replacement in time for your spot. Please contact Clayton on nzacinstructionandgearhire@gmail.com 6

7 This course is limited to 8 participants, aged 16 and over with current NZAC members getting first priority, after this, non NZAC members will be allowed on if spots available. The cost of the course will be $50 for NZAC members / Students and $80 for non members and is non refundable if you have to withdraw without enough time to find a replacement for your spot. Please contact Clayton on claytongarbes@hotmail.com with details of your climbing level, membership details if current and any other relevant details. A registration form will be sent out to those accepted onto the course and the course fee must be paid upon returning the form to guarantee your spot. This course is only available to those in the Canterbury / Westland section area. Tasman Glacier Climbing Trip 26 th December 3 rd January The Upper Tasman Glacier is home to some of the most impressive summits in the Mount Cook National Park. Peaks such as Elie de Beaumont, Malte Brun, The Minarets and De La Beche line either side of the Tasman Valley and provide excellent climbing opportunities for those who venture to its upper reaches. The plan on this climbing trip will be to fly to the head of the Tasman Glacier where we will be spending the week climbing some of the National Park's significant Photo: Matt Buckley peaks before an enjoyable walk out via the Tasman Glacier. Sleeping arrangements will include staying in huts and bivvying. As numbers for this climbing trip are limited all climbers must pay flight costs (approximately $150) in advance to reserve their places. All climbers also should have sound NZ mountaineering skills such as experience with glacier travel, building snow anchors and a solid crampon/ice axe technique. If interested please contact Matt at buckmatthews73@gmail.com 7

8 Reel Rock Film Tour Less than 1 week after the US premier, The Canterbury / Westland section of the New Zealand Alpine Club is proud to be screening REELROCK12. Now in its 12th year, REELROCK is one of the most popular film tours in the World specialising in climbing movies and has been a sell out across the Globe since its first year. Wednesday 8th November, 7.30pm start, Middleton Grange Auditorium, 50 Acacia Avenue Riccarton. Once again, all proceeds from the REELROCK Christchurch screening will be donated towards the 2018 NZAC Youth Rock Climbing Camp. Your support and turnout is appreciated so spread the word and bring your kids along to see some fantastic climbing movies. Ticket prices: NZAC Members, Students, Flying Gecko Club members: $15. General Public: $18. Tickets available at: Online at Eventopia (booking fee applies) The September and October Canterbury Westland Section meetings at the Cashmere Club (Cash Only) Bivouac Tower Junction YMCA Adventure Centre (ROXX) Limit of 6 tickets per purchase. 8

9 Notices NZAC Canterbury/Westland Youth Climbing Scholarship To encourage and promote climbing the Canterbury/Westland section is funding one male and one female climber between and including the ages of (as from 1 st October 2017) for a youth Climbing Scholarship. If you love climbing and fit this age group range or know someone who does, then please write to us answering the details and questions below. Send your applications to cw.chairperson@gmail.com by the 30th of October The winner will be announced in the December Newsletter. The successful applicant, will receive Macpac backpack, $400 towards NZAC instruction courses, and free gear rental for one year from the Canterbury Westland Section and one year s free membership. Apply addressing the following: -Name -Address - -Age -Give a brief resume of your tramping and any climbing experience to date. -Outline your climbing goals, interests and ambitions. -Why are you applying for this scholarship? What instruction would you put the money towards? -Why should you be awarded the scholarship? (200 words) -Provide proof of your age (driver s licence, passport etc): -Please provide a letter of endorsement from an established climber or NZAC member confirming your passion to be a climber. Arthurs Pass Hut Lodge Bee Date set for 28/29 Oct (same day as NZAC CCM) electrical work, usual clean and scrub, 8-10 people for the weekend would be good. Contact John Henson if you d like to lend a hand: hensonj@xtra.co.nz Black Diamond Swift ski touring boots for sale Woman size 25. Great condition with just a few scuffs. Dynafit binding compatible. $ Can be tried in Chch. Ring or Yvonne or Yvonne.pf@gmx.at.

10 UIAA News The UIAA has put in place the provisional calendar for the 2018 UIAA Ice Climbing season. The 2017 Mountain Protection Award has just announced 26 projects from 15 countries who have applied - in case you are interested to see what other countries are doing. Historic ascent of Shispare northeast face Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima successfully summited the 7611m peak of Shispare, Pakistan, via a new route of the northeast face at 14:30 on 22 August. This is considered to be the first ascent of the northeast face of Shispare and becomes one of the stand-out mountaineering achievements of the year. Summer Photography Workshop NZAC photo workshops are club events aimed at beginner-intermediate photographers wanting to improve their outdoor photography skills. Based at Aoraki/Mt Cook, at the height of the early summer flowers, this course will offer instruction on macro and landscape photography and an overnight visit to Mueller Hut if weather allows. Additional information can be found in the info pack here: NZAC Summer Workshop.pdf Cost: Base cost $890 pp, includes all instruction, accommodation, and three evening meals. Register for the course online here: NZAC membership is required, To join NZAC visit: Kicks off lunchtime Friday 24th November at Unwin Lodge (please arrive at 11:30am). Send an to Ashlee at events@alpineclub.org.nz to express your interest in this amazing opportunity. Applications close 5pm, Saturday 4th November. 10

11 The Cordillera Carabaya Expedition 1967 We have received a letter from David Hodgdon formerly a member of the Rocketdyne Mountaineering Club located in California. The RMC and Sierra Clubs hosted NZAC members on their way through the USA en route to Peru for the Cordillera Carabaya Expedition He has come across a box of colour slides of New Zealand that were left behind by one of the team members and will be sending them back to New Zealand for entry into the Club s Hocken Archive Collection. Can anyone identify the remaining NZAC members in the colour feature image above. We have written to Alex Parton, but if anyone else knows were one of the other surviving team members may be, please let us know are they might be able to provide us with more information about the slides in question? Colour image left to right we believe is eight of the nine Expedition members. Missing is likely to be John Dowd who joined the Expedition later on: Alex Parton;?;?;?; Dave Massam;?;?;?. 11

12 Cordillera Carabaya Exp Peru 1967 Image: David Hodgdon The Expedition Report was featured in the 1968 NZ Alpine Journal (pages ) with team members: W Goodfellow, B C Dudley; D G Massam; RG McKenzie; DE Cooper (Leader); Dr G G Jackson; A O Parton; J Dowd and A N H Chinn (Deputy Leader). You can read the article here: Cordillera Carabaya Exp 1967 NZAJ 1968 The black and white image features Gordon Palmer (RMC), Alex Parton; Dave Massam; Unknown; David Hodgdon (RMC) on the far right. (Two identities added thanks to Bob McKerrow with the person 2nd from right still to name). Contact Margaret if you can assist: margaret@alpineclub.org.nz 12

13 Canterbury Westland Section of NZAC Volunteer Instructor of the Year Award At the August C/W Section AGM, a special presentation was made for the first time. In order to honour the late Charlie Catt who was an outstanding volunteer winter instructor for the section for over 10 years, the C/W section committee decided to present an a ward to the volunteer instructor of the year. The choice of a winner in the inaugural year was a really tough one to make as we have so many wonderful volunteers in the section who give their time and in the end, two people could not be separated so it was a joint winner for A huge congratulations to Penny Webster and Nic Harvey for winning the award - both have given a huge amount of their time and passion over recent years with Penny on our winter courses for 3 years and Nic as a rock instructor for over 5 years. To all our other fantastic volunteer instructors - Maike Walter, Anna Brooke, Alex Barclay, Katie Wolf, Lorraine Johns, Craig Hosking, Brian Cresswell, Billy McIndoe, Nick Hanafin, Trevor Heslop, David Sampson, Jim Peterson and Gunther Hammer - this award is just as deserving for any one of you so thank you all so much! And a special thanks also to Carolyn Catt for approving the award to be given and to Adam Humphries and Richard Harcourt in the wonderful job you both did in designing and creating the trophy. 13

14 Canterbury / Westland Section Gear Hire (For NZAC Members only) The C/W Section has a good range of equipment available to be hired to members. Section trips and instruction will take priority but members are more than welcome to hire on private trips and for other people on those trips (members or non members ). All equipment hired is on a cash only basis with a receipt provided and must be paid when picking up (please don t ask to pay online or after the completion of the trip no $ up front, no hire, no exceptions!). Equipment must be returned within 24 hours of completion of hire period or by arrangement, otherwise an additional late return fee may incur. All equipment hired must be returned in a clean and undamaged state and the hirer is responsible for any loss or damage and may be required to cover any repair or replacement costs. Bulk hire or for extended hire periods will get a discount on the daily rate of $10 per day per item and $5 each extra day (for all items unless stated). Equipment List Plastic and rigid leather mountaineering boots (20 pair of limited sizes). Crampons (9 pair fully adjustable). Walking ice axes (9 of various lengths). Technical ice axes and hammers (5 pair of various kinds). Avalanche kits (12 sets of Pieps DSP sport transceivers/shovels and probes). Snow shoes (2 pair). EPIRB (1 x emergency locator beacon). Alpine ropes (6 x 50 metre dry NZAC courses only not private hire). Helmets (6 of various models). $5 per day and $2.50 each extra day. Harnesses (3 of various sizes). $5 per day and $2.50 each extra day. Snow stakes (8 with mid clip wire). $5 per day and $2.50 each extra day. Ice screws (12 x various BD and Petzl). $5 per day and $2.50 each extra day. Trad gear various sizes of cams, hexes and nuts (NZAC courses only not private hire). Price on quantity. Petrol drill (provide own fuel). To arrange hire contact is by two options only text only on for quickest reply or nzacinstructionandgearhire@gmail.com for evening reply. Flexible times are available to hire gear but most evenings from Sunday to Thursday only (please do not contact last minute on a Friday expecting to pick up gear the same day). 20

15 Trip guidelines An important part of the NZAC is volunteer organised trips. Many members will have had their first alpine experiences on club trips. And many will also have organised trips, helping other members enjoy our alpine environment. If you're thinking of joining or organising a trip, here are some guidelines on what to expect. Responsibilities of a Trip Participant You are responsible for your own safety. If you are uncomfortable with any situation it is up to you to let your Trip organiser know straight away. Be prepared to drive or pay transport costs (petrol, wear and tear) as determined by the Trip organiser. Make sure you are as fit and healthy as possible. Make sure you have a clear idea of the trip's goals and what will be required of you to achieve those goals. Obtain a relevant map and know where you are going, what type of terrain is involved, what gear you will need and the knowledge of how to use it. Be honest to your Trip Organiser about how much experience you have and accept that the Trip Organiser might not accept you on the trip if he/she thinks you are not experienced enough. Get in contact with the Trip Organiser as soon as you are confident that you want to go on the trip. If you discover that you cannot go on the trip then let the Trip Organiser know as soon as possible so that another person can take your place. Read, understand and return the signed copy of the NZAC waiver form to the Trip Organiser. Responsibilities of a Trip organiser Trips should be fun for everyone. They are not very hard to organise and can be very rewarding. Choose a mountain, peak, hill, traverse, route, crag, or whatever and get out there and meet some keen club members! You cannot be responsible for the safety of every member of the group, but you should aim to empower every group member with enough knowledge to make their own informed decisions about the proposed trip both before and during the trip. Choose a realistic goal for the time available and give prospective group members an idea of the amount of effort required to achieve the stated goal Set a group size limit based on your experience, the goal, time available and group fitness and experience. Let the group know what skills and equipment are needed when they sign up so that everyone is prepared. Provide the trip Participants with a copy of the NZAC waiver form and have them understand, sign and return it to you in advance of the trip. Organise travel arrangements at the earliest opportunity and let everyone know how much they should expect to pay for transport costs (petrol, wear and tear). Prepare detailed trip intentions and leave them with at least one responsible individual. The intentions should include a latest return time/date which would trigger a search initiated by the responsible individual(s) and involving the relevant authorities (Police, SAR, etc). If someone on the trip voices their concern about the situation it is up to you (with the help of the group) to find a safe solution where possible. This may involve everyone turning around. Give priority to NZAC members Find someone on the trip to write an interesting trip report for the Section Newsletter. Benefits for NZAC members NZAC Membership gives you access to many discounts with the following retailers. You may be asked to present your active NZAC membership. To see full terms and conditions and other benefits of being a member, please visit Cactus 21

16 Section Library Section Library Did you know that the Section has its own library and that unlike the National Office library you can actually borrow the books in the Section library? Every section meeting I will bring a good selection of the hundreds of books in the library, along with the DVDs. The contents of the C/W Section library can be found online here: (Note: There is a list of DVDs on the second tab of the spreadsheet). If you would like to borrow a book or DVD then please me and we ll sort something out. Library policies are pretty flexible You must have a current NZAC membership card to borrow Books are generally to be returned within 2 months, but new purchases will be expected to be returned within 1 month. DVDs are expected to be returned within 2 weeks. When you are ready to return a book, me. John Roper-Lindsay - Librarian, john@roperlindsay.com, NOTE: - You may return books/dvds in one of 4 ways. 1) Return them to next Section meeting. 2) Drop them off at National Office and tell whomever you speak to that they are for C/W library. 3) Drop them off at Boffa Miskell office at 4 Hazeldean Road (near Hagley Park, just off Lincoln Road), marked for Yvonne. 4) /text/phone me to arrange handover some other way NZAC Deceased Members 22

17 Canterbury/Westland Section of The New Zealand Alpine Club Facebook page Section Library Chairperson Jim Petersen Secretary Ashlee Peeters Section Contacts Treasurer John Roper-Lindsay Arthur s Pass Lodge John Henson hensonj@xtra.co.nz Events Adam Humphries adam.b.humphries@gmail.com Accommodation Committee Rep. Philip Tree Philip.tree@taitradio.com Instruction Coordinator Clayton Garbes nzacinstructionandgearhire@gmail.com Recreational advocacy Lindsay Main Lindsay.main@caverock.net.nz Trips Coordinator Andrew Barrett andrew.barrett@liquidvoice.co.nz Online Coordinator Shannon van Til shannonvantil@gmail.com Rock Climbing Coordinator Clayton Garbes claytongarbes@hotmail.com Section Evenings Yanike Sophie Yanikes@gmail.com National Committee Rep. Yvonne Pfluger yvonne.pfluger@boffamiskell.co.nz Newsletter James Thornton nzac.cw.newsletter@gmail.com Library John Roper-Lindsay john@roperlindsay.com Crag Maintenance Grant Piper grant.piper66@gmail.com