First studies with the high-resolution coupled wave current model CWAM and other aspects of the project Sea State Monitor

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First studies with the high-resolution coupled wave current model CWAM and other aspects of the project Sea State Monitor Jens Kieser, Thomas Bruns German Meteorological Service (Deutscher Wetterdienst, DWD) Anja Lindenthal, Frank Janssen, Thorger Brüning German Maritime and Hydrographic Agency (Bundesamt für Seeschifffahrt und Hydrographie, BSH) Arno Behrens Helmholtz-Zentrum Geesthacht (HZG) Xiao-Ming Li, Susanne Lehner, Andrey Pleskachevsky German Aerospace Center (Deutsches Zentrum für Luft- und Raumfahrt, DLR)

Structure of the presentation: Motivation and intention of the project "Sea State Monitor" Model development CWAM Model validation using in-situ measurements using TerraSAR-X The influence of currents and water depth on sea state Summary, conclusions, and outlook

Motivation and intention: DWD: operational sea state forecast using global and regional wave forecast models (e.g. GWAM, EWAM). BSH: operational sea current and water level prediction using ocean circulation models (e.g. BSH CMOD, HBM). Users of forecasts: e.g. commercial shipping, recreational craft, coastal protection, offshore industry

Motivation and intention: Offshore industry is very active in German coastal waters. Photos from Global Tech I Offshore Wind GmbH They need very exact forecast in the range of low and moderate wave heights.

Motivation and intention: Offshore industry operates in sea areas with complex topography and strong currents, where conventional prediction exhibits significant uncertainties. Planned or existing wind farms within the German Bight Typical shipping routes of the offshore industry within the German Bight

Motivation and intention: improvement of the operational sea state, sea current, and sea height forecast for the German coastal waters Main parts of the project: development of the high-resolution, coupled wave current model CWAM for the German Bight and the western Baltic Sea development of algorithms in order to derive meteo-marine parameters from radar satellite observations creation of new forecast products combining model and satellite data

Coastal Wave Model (CWAM) NEW! increment longitude: 0.01389 increment latitude: 0.00833 coupled with the ocean circulation model (HBM) that provides current and water depth European Wave Model (EWAM) CONVENTIONAL wind input from COSMO-EU, spectral resolution: 36 directions, 30 frequencies increment longitude: 0.1 increment latitude: 0.05

Comparison between CWAM, EWAM, and in situ measurements at two positions within the German Bight significant wave height in situ observation, EWAM, CWAM

water depth 25m comparison model vs in situ measurements:

water depth 25m comparison model vs in situ measurements: significant wave height at buoy position close south of the island Helgoland EWAM: European Wave Model

water depth 25m comparison model vs in situ measurements: significant wave height at buoy position close south of the island Helgoland EWAM: European Wave Model CWAMN: fixed depth, no current

water depth 25m comparison model vs in situ measurements: significant wave height at buoy position close south of the island Helgoland EWAM: European Wave Model CWAMN: fixed depth, no current CWAMC: variable depth, current

water depth 30m comparison model vs in situ measurements: significant wave height at offshore research platform FINO 1* (* The FINO project is promoted by the German Federal Ministry for Environment, Nature Conservation, and Nuclear Safety and by the Projektträger Jülich.) EWAM: European Wave Model CWAMN: fixed depth, no current CWAMC: variable depth, current

Comparison of TerraSAR-X (satellite) observations with CWAM results: Significant wave height computed by CWAM and derived from highresolution TerraSAR-X observation using XWAVE algorithm (Bruck and Lehner 2012) asterisks: TSX contour: CWAM

influence of water depth and current on the wave height:

influence of water depth and current on the wave height: significant wave height water depth relative to reference depth current

influence of water depth and current on the wave height: significant wave height water depth relative to reference depth current

influence of water depth and current on the wave height: significant wave height water depth relative to reference depth current

influence of water depth and current on the wave height: significant wave height water depth relative to reference depth current

CWAM has been developed Summary and conclusions: Comparison with buoy measurements shows: general improvement of wave height prediction due to higher model resolution and more detailed representation of topography First studies indicate: potential improvements in near shore areas when time varying water depth and currents are taken into account effects of currents are highly localized, but affected areas are highly frequented by offshore industry (main beneficiary of improved forecasts)

Outlook: Interactive coupling of CWAM and the ocean circulation model HBM Extension of the operational forecast time range to 48 or 72 hours Refinement of algorithms to derive meteo-marine parameters from TerraSAR-X satellite measurements Validation of model results with space-borne SAR data covering large areas

THANK YOU

Scatter Index as used by Ris et al. 1999: SI=rms error /X rms error = 1/N (X n -Y n ) 2 X n : observed values Y n : computed values N: number of observations X: averaged observed value N