Kauai Wave Climate. Jessica Podoski, PE USACE Honolulu District

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Kauai Wave Climate Jessica Podoski, PE USACE Honolulu District

Kauai Wave Climate Overview Study Regions WIS Hindcast Data & Analysis Wave Transformation NearshoreWave Climate

Kauai Study Regions

KekahaWave Climate Wave Information Study (WIS) Hindcast: Pacific Hindcast provides hourly wave parameters for 24 years (1980 2004) Generated using computer models and observed wind fields Compared with actual wave gage data for accuracy Provides a much longer term data set useful in establishing wave climate Station 120 selected for Kekaha WIS Station 120 (3438 m depth)

KekahaWave Climate Kekaha deep water WIS Station: Waves from all directions (NW and trades dominate) and large variation in wave height (2-6m) Captures both tradewind seas (ENE direction) and long-period swells (N&NW as well as South directions) Data was truncated to capture only energy moving toward island (280 through 100 ) Three representative years (1984, 1992, 1994) transformed to 100m contour using linear shoaling & diffraction then analyzed for to select most common wave cases (H/T/θ)

KekahaWave Climate Typical STWAVE Output : Wave Height (m) Kikiaola Harbor N Used STWAVE to transform selected wave cases to shoreline (326 discrete cases for Kekaha) Wave data saved at specific nearshore save points along coastline at areas of interest Results used to develop relationship between offshore/nearshore wave conditions Nearshore time series created using WIS data for 3 selected years and STWAVE results

KekahaWave Climate Wave Rose developed for nearshore locations will help to determine dominant wave direction From this, we can estimate direction of longshore sediment transport at locations along the study region Will add information to sediment budget

PoipuWave Climate Wave Information Study (WIS) Hindcast: Station 119 selected for Kihei Same 24-year period of record WIS station is much more exposed than Poipu area WIS Station 119 (4530 m depth)

PoipuWave Climate Poipu deep water WIS Station: Waves from all directions and midrange wave heights (2-3m) from most directions Captures both tradewind seas (ENE direction) and long-period swells (N&NW directions and South) Data was truncated to capture only energy moving toward island (90 through 270 ) Three representative years (1984, 1992, 1994) transformed to 100m contour using linear shoaling & diffraction then analyzed for to select most common wave cases (H/T/θ)

PoipuWave Climate Typical STWAVE Output : Wave Height (m) Poipu Beach Park N Used STWAVE to transform selected wave cases to shoreline (379 discrete cases for Poipu) Wave data saved at specific nearshore save points along coastline at areas of interest Results used to develop relationship between offshore/nearshore wave conditions Nearshore time series created using WIS data for 3 selected years and STWAVE results

PoipuWave Climate Wave Rose developed for nearshore locations will help to determine dominant wave direction From this, we can estimate direction of longshore sediment transport at locations along the study region Will add information to sediment budget