Multi-pitch Rock Climbing BOEALPS BRC Jean Ruggiero 30 July 2018

Transcription

1 Multi-pitch Rock Climbing BOEALPS BRC Jean Ruggiero 30 July 2018

2 Some fun multipitch climbs... Sun Ribbon Arête, Temple Crag, Palisades, CA 22 pitches (5 were simul-pitches), 3 Approach pitches, 2 rappels, and a Tyrolean 12 hours on route

3 Some fun multipitch climbs... North Ridge of Stuart, Stuart Range, WA 6 pitches ft of simul-climbing 12 hours on route Carryover Stuart Pass Goat Pass Mt Stuart Summit Ingalls Pass Base of N Ridge Ingalls Creek Longs Pass

4 Some fun multipitch climbs... Favorite Multipitch Matthis Crest, Complete Traverse, Tuolumne, Yosemite, CA 1 mile traverse 10 fixed pitches + 2/3 miles simuling 10.5 hours on route

5 Some fun multipitch climbs... Paisano/Burgundy, North Cascades, WA 12 pitches ~17 hrs car to car

6 Lecture Goals You will (hopefully) learn a little about: 1. How to climb multipitch rock 2. How to climb multipitch rock safely 3. How to climb multipitch rock efficiently How not to be that guy 4. How to be an awesome multipitch partner 5. How to have fun!

7 1. Multi Pitch Climbing It s just single pitch climbing multiple times, right?

8 1. Multi Pitch Climbing Preparing Racking Belaying Following Descending Additional Info Mt Conness, Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite National Park

9 Preparation Research as much as possible: chosen route, descent, alternate routes or peaks Spend at least as much time researching descent beta as ascent beta Come up with an estimated timeline Plan on things taking longer than you think. Start early you won t regret it later Be flexible - Update plan as things change, both before the climb and during the climb

10 Backbone Ridge 6/23/07 Quick work was made of the fourth class wandering traverse, and soon we were up at the base of the off-width. Leaving my pack with Andrew to haul, I began thrutching my way up the crack. Although physical, it was never really hard. Plus it would be pretty difficult to fall out of it. I did manage to somehow tear up my left ankle pretty good. The first half was protected by my #5 EVERETT AND 330 PM PDT SUN MAY TONIGHT...MOSTLY CLOUDY WITH SCATTERED SHOWERS ENDING. LOWS IN THE UPPER 30S TO MID 40S. SOUTHWEST WIND 10 TO 15 MPH SOUTH OF SEATTLE. RESEARCH!

11 Racking Minimize size / weight but balanced against safety and efficiency Select gear carefully Understand route gear recommendations before selecting rack Balance the range of cams against the weight of stoppers Make sure to pack other necessities like: water, snacks, jacket, sunscreen, sunglasses, etc. Have plan for gear transfer Photo by Bill Booth

12 Racking: Harness vs Gear Sling + It s better Harness + Doesn t block view of feet + Gear won t trip you, especially on slabs (hanging below knees) - Harder to transfer gear - Difficult to reach gear in chimneys, or one handed hangs Gear Sling + Can easily swing gear into reach. + Easier to get to in chimneys, overhangs + Easy to transfer gear if climbers are not vastly different size - Can block view of feet or even trip you up - Can swing out of reach - Awkward to climb with

13 Racking, conclusion: Learn your own method Become efficient at your racking Be flexible so you can use a variety of techniques You may learn a new technique! What happens when you forget your helmet... Backbone Arete, Dragontail, Stuart Range

14 Belaying Avoiding tangles and snags Anchoring in Managing the rope Signaling

15 Belaying: avoid tangles and snags! Manage rope to prevent rock-fall and avoid rope eating cracks Butterfly over your PA or use another method On some rock you can trail the rope down the face, but look out for cracks and flakes For leading in blocks (not swapping leads each pitch) you can attempt to flip the rope stack. Best to re-flake rope for tough pitches

16 Yikes!

17 Yes!

18 Belaying: anchoring in Use gear thoughtfully: cordelette vs. three slings; variety of pieces vs. all your medium cams What will be needed on the next pitch? Recommended to belay off the anchor when possible and practical Not always necessary or possible to get three anchor points Don t tie into rap rings

19 Belaying: Can t hear eachother Rope Signals: Often don t work! Friction and drag on dynamic rope dampens the rope pulls. Possible solution - radios: makes communication easy and stress free! Know the usual order of events and timing: - Rope stops for extended time when leader builds anchor - Rope moves steadily while leader brings in slack - After rope comes tight, leader puts second on belay - Leader signals follower: verbally or otherwise (pull rope very tight) - Follower cleans anchor and starts to climb. - Very characteristic belay pattern of rope - WHEN IN DOUBT, BELAY TO END OF ROPE!

20 Belaying: rope signals If leader asks for rope and doesn t get it, they must set up an anchor and belay follower up. If leader keeps trying to climb past the end of the rope, belayer may have to break down the anchor and start simuling Always discuss overall plan before leaving the ground Always discuss plan before starting each pitch

21 Following Everything you learned for single pitch climbing plus: Multipitch Specific tips: Leader should place first piece quickly leaving a hanging belay, or clip a piece on the anchor Leader should communicate fixed gear Safety over style Following is about efficiency Use spare moments at belays wisely

22 Descending

23 Descending Spend at least as much time researching descent beta as ascent beta Down climbing easier terrain can be faster than rappelling. Inspect rap anchor, slings, rap rings Back up rap anchor, last person down pulls backup First person down carries rap anchor material and extra rope to leap-frog raps Before last person comes down do a pull test Rope throwing use two coils Saddle bag technique (when not to throw?)

24 Descending, continued To tie end knots or not to tie? Don t rappel past the highest tangle or end of rope Don t get rope stuck but it will probably happen Always check / untie knots before pulling Rope pulling techniques: Whip wave right as rope comes through anchors If caught work both sides, then try weight and release When climbing back up to get the stuck rope, belay leader with what tail you have Last resort cut rope

25 Additional Info Leading in blocks Climbing in groups of three Simul-climbing Soloing French Free / Russian Free / Aid Be courteous to other parties

26 Leading in Blocks Swapping Leads +/- Mental + Belay transfer is simpler + Can flow well - Can get cold +/- Mental Leading in blocks + If climbing on a team of three + Can better distribute pitches - Belay transfer is more complicated

27 Climbing in Groups of Three Recommended: Lead on two ropes, belay both climbers up at same time using guide mode, climbers ~10+ ft apart vertically Two is more efficient than three in most cases. Times to climb in groups of three: That s how many people you have Not enough leaders Bigger climbs, big walls, first ascents, expeditions, etc.

28 Simul-Climbing A useful and sometimes necessary tool to complete a route in a timely manner Compromise between pitching it out and soloing in terms of speed and safety West Ridge of Forbidden, North Cascades, WA Photo by Jason Curtis

29 Simul-Climbing Plan when to simul and when to pitch it out Efficient transitions are key Shortening rope for longer simul sections Stronger climber follows for harder simuling Follower keeps belay device on rope, leader can lead through harder sections, follower can belay from a good stance or piece, then be belayed up through the harder section Microtraction or similar device can protect hard sections Stretching Pitches If the beginning and end of a pitch are easy, can stretch a pitch by simuling a short section

30 Soloing Can be more efficient than simuling on really easy terrain If no gear is available Take into account time to put away and take out rope Be very intentional about what terrain you solo Know where you are and what s ahead of you Don t climb up anything you wouldn t down climb comfortably

31 Aiding Safety is more important than style French free Russian free Aiding Washington Column, South Face Yosemite Valley

32 Be courteous to other parties Let fast, safe parties pass (hard to assess) Don t feel pressured; they could have gotten an earlier start or chosen another route Consider discouraging passing on routes with high rockfall danger: you got there first to minimize your exposure! If you want to pass, be courteous - ask

33 2. Multipitch Climbing Safely Be able to trust your partner Good Communication If you don t know how to do something, ask If cannot communicate, stick to the plan Avoid unintentional free soloing Preparation and route research, know bail options, climb commitment grade Always double check systems and knots, with partner if possible, especially when tired

34 2. Multipitch Climbing Safely Know your fitness Know your limits Know when to push your grade and when not to Know when to bail It s not over until you re down Be efficient!

35 3. Multipitch Climbing Efficiently Preparation and route research Climbing within your limit Fitness Decisiveness When to transition between climbing modes Which way to go Belays Climbing ability Climbing with the same partner Speed vs. Style Constant evaluation and reflection Bring a timekeeping device!

36 3. Multipitch Climbing Efficiently Be efficient, but don t sacrifice safety for speed Take breaks for sunscreen, water, food, bathroom, etc.

37 4. Be an Awesome Partner! Be involved in all portions of the climb Expect shenanigans Problem solve now, criticize later Positive interactions Communicate Know your strengths and weaknesses Be efficient Be honest but don t whine Be a team player Don t talk about post-climb food too early Ask how you can be a better partner

38 5. How to have fun! Be safe Be efficient Be a good climbing partner Trust your climbing partner Know when to relax

39 Review Stoke/Intro How to Multipitch Climb Preparation, Racking, Belaying, Leading/Following, Descending, Additional Info How to Multipitch Climb Safely How to Multipitch Climb Efficiently How to be an Awesome Partner How to have fun

40 Get Stoked!

41 Get Stoked!

42 The End Questions?