PRITI & JEFF WRIGHT BOEALPS - BASIC ROCK CLASS (BRC)

Transcription

1 PRITI & JEFF WRIGHT BOEALPS - BASIC ROCK CLASS (BRC)

2 AGENDA Overview & Welcome BRC Handbook Climbing System Knots Review At-Home Skills Practice Outing #1: Leavenworth Questions

3 THE BRC Bridge gap between BCC and ICC Increase your rock climbing skills Increase your rope skills and systems skills Practice, practice, practice Learn lead climbing through following Mock leading

4 BRC SKILLS Rock climbing techniques Intro to natural protection Identify safe anchors, and practice building them Understand topos and route descriptions Understand your mental response to climbing Multi-pitch climbing techniques Gear management and rope management Intro to alpine climbing and planning

5 COURSE STRUCTURE Required: Attending all Outings Outing 1 (Leavenworth) Introductions & Basic Review Outing 2 (Smith) Rock Climbing Techniques Outing 3 (Squamish) Multi-pitch Climbing Outing 4 (Grad Climb) Alpine Climbing

6 WELCOME! Name Background Climbing goal within the next year

7 CLIMBING SYSTEM OVERVIEW Belaying Equipment Attaching the climber to the climbing rope Fundamental Principles of Belay The Belay System Belaying a Top Rope Lead Belaying Use of Ground Anchors

8 BELAYING EQUIPMENT Harnesses Waist belt Tie in points Belay loop Buckles Belay Devices Plate/Tube Devices Assisted Braking Devices Locking Carabiners Climbing Ropes

9 ATTACHING TO THE CLIMBING ROPE Single Pitch Climber ties in; Multi Pitch both tie in Tying the Rewoven Figure 8 Certain gestures create uniformity, so that the knot looks the same every time it is used: The symmetry of the knot is based on having all strands parallel to each other. The gap between the knot and the waist belt is the same size as the belay loop. The knot has about a 6 inch tail. Make you knot neat!

10 FUNDAMENTAL PRINCIPLES OF BELAY Principle #1: Always keep our brake hands on the rope. Principle #2: We only slide out hands when the rope is in the braking position Principle #3: Position our hands according to our natural strength

11 BELAY SYSTEM The Belay System has four essential phases: 1. The Setup - Tie in and get on belay and get ready/ anchored 2. Communication and Double Checks - Make it a ritual 3. Belaying and Lowering 4. Termination - belay off

12 CLIMBING COMMUNICATION It is important to communicate with each other when top-roping. Climbers rely on a checklist of commands for safety. Here's a typical scenario: Climber: On Belay?" Belayer: "Belay on." Climber: Climbing." Rock! Rock If any object is falling. Belayer: "Climb on. The climber begins climbing Climber: Tension. Take. Slack. Up rope. Falling! Belayer: I ve got you. (as required) Climber: Take. Lower. Belayer: "Lowering. Climber: "Off belay? Belayer: "Belay off."

13 DOUBLE CHECKS Buckles Waist Fit Rope Belay Device Locking Carabiners Knot

14 BELAYING Pull-Brake-Under-Slide universal-belay-program

15 CLASS 5 SUB-CATEGORIES : Easy Climbing a steep section that has large hand and foot holds : Intermediate Small foot and handholds. Strength and rock climbing skills required. Low to vertical terrain : Hard Not for beginners. Technical, vertical and may have overhangs. Rock shoes required : Hard to Difficult Not for beginners. Technical, vertical and may have overhangs. Rock shoes required : Very Difficult Not for beginners. Technical, vertical and may have overhangs. Rock shoes required.

16 CLIMBING GEAR Bouldering Sport Trad A PARTNER HARNESS BELAY DEVICE DYNAMIC ROPE QUICK DRAWS ANCHOR SYSTEM: ANCHOR-IN-A-BOX CORDALETTE TWO DRAWS Etc (Aid, Mixed, Ice) ROCK SHOES CHALK BAG OPTIONAL PAD PASSIVE PRO: NUTS HEXES ACTIVE PRO: CAMS IN BETWEEN: HEXES TRI CAMS

17 FALLING Safe falls Unsafe falls Factor 2 Falls Fear of Falling

18 KNOTS Knots must be clean and well-dressed. This not only helps make it easy to check that it is ties correctly, but makes is safer as well. Some knots are much less secure if not well dressed. Knots: Knots are used to form eyes or to secure a rope around an object, such as a package. In other words, the line is bent to itself. Bends: A bend knot is a knot used to join two lengths of rope. Hitches: A hitch is a type of knot used for binding rope to an object.

19 KNOTS Figure Eight We require a finishing (or stopper) knot, like an overhand, or the Yosemite finish Bowline We don t use this to tie in Butterfly Knot We use this to tie in for simul-climbing or middle of glacier rope

20 BENDS Water Knot We usually use this to tie webbing into slings Double Fisherman We usually use this to tie cord into cordelettes and prusiks Overhand AKA EDK We use this when rappelling with two ropes

21 HITCHES Prusik We use this to capture progress on a rope Bachmann We usually use this for a Z-Pulley System

22 HITCHES Münter Hitch We use this for belaying and rappelling Clove Hitch We use this for making and adjustable personal anchor Website for interactive knots: indexclimbing.php

23 ROPE MANAGEMENT Rope Coiling

24 QUESTIONS? COMMENTS?