Nico Ritschel, January 5 th Not Afraid of Heights: An Introduction to Rock Climbing
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1 Nico Ritschel, January 5 th 2018 Not Afraid of Heights: An Introduction to Rock Climbing
2 Some Basic Terminology Bouldering Climbing
3 Some Basic Terminology Bouldering Climbing Indoor Outdoor
4 Some Basic Terminology Mountaineering (outdoor only)
5 Some Basic History As mode of transportation Existed for 1000s of years As sport Surprisingly new (late 19 th century) Indoor climbing Very recent (1964 in Europe, 1987 in the US) Made climbing become a mainstream sport Lead to drastic improvements of performance
6 Equipment Climbing Shoes Sticky rubber sole Very tight fit Bent slightly downward Harness Falls generate significant forces (up to 5kN) Needs to resist impact force and spread it Higher price for more comfort or style
7 Equipment Climbing Rope Needs to be dynamic (stretchable) Diameter ranges from 8.9mm to 10.7mm Lengths range from 20m (indoor) to 100m (outdoor) Carabiner Special climbing-grade carabiners Protected against usage mistakes
8 Equipment Belay device Dozens of different models General trade-off: Higher price/complexity for more comfort and more protection against mistakes Other devices Quickdraws Nuts and Hexes Braking resistors
9 Belaying Rope is running through belay device Belay device is connected to carabiner Carabiner is connected to harness Climber is directly connected to rope through harness End of rope is secured using a special know (e.g. figure eight knot )
10 Top Rope vs Lead Climbing Top Rope Rope is already set up at top Belayer pulls rope as climber ascends and slowly releases it to let them back down Lead Climbing Climber clips rope into quick draws while ascending Belayer gives just enough rope for climber to continue but be safe in case of a fall
11 Difficulty Grades Standardized
12 Difficulty Grades Standardized Most common in North America: YDS Two numbers: X.Y X = Level of danger : 1 = walking 3 = scrambling 5 = climbing Y = Difficulty of climb: = rather easy = intermediate = advanced 5.10 and higher have sub-grades with letter suffixes
13 Record Categories On-sight Finish route on first try with no breaks and without any prior knowledge Flash Finish route on first try with no breaks Redpoint Finish route with no breaks Hangdogging Finish route with breaks or after falling
14 Some Techniques Crimping
15 Some Techniques Crimping Pinching
16 Some Techniques Crimping Pinching Crack climbing
17 Some Techniques Crimping Pinching Crack climbing Flagging
18 Some Techniques Crimping Pinching Crack climbing Flagging Hooking
19 Some Techniques Crimping Pinching Crack climbing Flagging Hooking Smearing
20 Some Techniques Crimping Pinching Crack climbing Flagging Hooking Smearing Stemming
21 Some Techniques Crimping Pinching Crack climbing Flagging Hooking Smearing Stemming Dynamics (Dynos)
22 Action Directe(5.14d) First Redpoint: Wolfgang Güllich (1991)
23 La Dura Dura (5.15c) First Redpoint: Adam Ondra (2013)
24 Silence (aka Project Hard, 5.15d) First Redpoint: Adam Ondra (2017)
25 Try It Out: Where? Indoor Climbing UBC Aviary ($10 per day, free first-time rentals, $25 for whole term) Commercial gyms (closest one: Cliffhanger, $19 per day, $10 rentals) Indoor Bouldering Commercial gyms (closest one: The Hive, $21 per day, $5 rentals) Outdoor Climbing/Bouldering Tons of great spots around Vancouver and Squamish Technically free, but often not beginner-friendly ØShould go with experienced partner or book (commercial) day trip
26 Try It Out: How? Bouldering Technically no course needed, but without (experienced) partner(s) getting started might be rough ØCommercial gyms offer rather cheap beginner technique courses Climbing Needs partner and basic top rope belay knowledge required ØUBC Aviary offers free lessons ØCommercial gyms offer rather cheap lessons or belaying by staff Typically no techniques covered, but additional courses offered by commercial gyms
27 Questions?
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An Illustration of Crevasse Rescue Revision 4. Jan 6th, 2018 Author: Deling Ren http://www.mountaineers.org Copyright 2018 Seattle Climbing Committee, the Mountaineers. All rights reserved. Page 1 of 12