2016 QLD STATE LEAD CLIMBING CHAMPIONSHIPS

Transcription

1 2016 QLD STATE LEAD CLIMBING CHAMPIONSHIPS

2 THE 2016 QLD STATE LEAD CLIMBING CHAMPIONSHIPS WILL DECIDE THE QLD CHAMPIONS IN LEAD CLIMBING IN ALL OPEN AND YOUTH CATEGORIES. LOCATION The Spot The Rock, 61 Sandstone Pl, Parkinson QLD 4115 Ph: DATES The event will be held on Saturday & Sunday the 7th and 8th May 2016 REGISTRATION ONLINE Pre-registration is recommended. Due to time constraints numbers for all categories will be limited. Entries on the day will be accepted during registration times until the maximum numbers are reached. SIGN-UP HERE SCA MEMBERSHIP All competitors must have a valid 2016 SCA membership; this is an annual membership in which the fees go towards the future development of sport climbing competitions in Australia. If you have not already done so since 1 st January 2016 please follow this link to the SCA website to pay your 2016 SCA Membership. You will have the choice of purchasing a State or National level membership. State membership covers you for ALL competitions held in Queensland in 2016, National membership covers you for ALL competitions throughout Australia in If you have any questions you can contact Sport Climbing Queensland on admin@sportclimbingqueensland.com. COMP DAY For categories that are not at capacity it is possible to register on the day, registration closes 30 mins before the commencement of each session. 1

3 COMP FEE Youth Categories $40 Adult Categories $40 FOREIGN CLIMBERS Foreign climbers are welcome to compete and will be awarded their places and prizes but not an Australian ranking. CATEGORIES Male and female in each of the following: Youth D Born 2005 and after Youth C Born 2003 and 2004 Youth B Born 2001 and 2002 Youth A Born 1999 and 2000 Junior Born 1997 and 1998 Masters Born 1975 and before Youth A, Junior and Masters may also enter OPEN A and if they wish to do so will need to pay the entry fee for both categories. Open C NO lead experience Climbing less than 1 Year Climbing grades up to 20 F, 21 M Open B Lead only Climbing grades F, M Open A Lead only (Born 2000 and before) Climbing grades 24+ F, 25+ M FORMAT OVERVIEW The Lead event will include 2 flash qualifier climbs for each category. This will be followed by one onsight final climb for the top 8 climbers in each category. QLD State Champions in each category will be decided by placing in the onsight final. Count-back to the heats will be used in the result of a tie in the final, if a tie still remains the climbers time on the final climb will be used to separate the competitors, the faster climber placing above the other. QUALIFICATION Categories will be split into gender and will rotate in order. The route setter will forerun each qualifying climb before the first climber starts or a forerunning video of the climbs 2

4 will be running in the warm up area. Competitors will be ranked after their attempts on the two qualification climbs and the top eight climbers from each category will progress to the onsite final round. All climbers tied in places up to eight will be included in the final. FINAL Climbers qualified for the final round will be kept in isolation to warm up before their climb. There will be a 6 minute viewing period for climbers to visualize the final onsite climb. Each climber will be called one at a time from each category to have an attempt on the onsite final route. The last qualifying finals climber will climb the final route first. Climbers in Youth C, Youth D & Open C categories will top-rope all routes. Climbers in Open A, Open B, Masters, Junior, Youth A & Youth B categories will lead all routes. Climbers who are colour-blind need to notify the route-setters via (dtgordon89@gmail.com) at least one week prior to the event. 3

5 AT THE EVENT FOOD AND DRINK Food and drink will be available for purchase from the SCQ (Sport Climbing Queensland) BBQ Stall with funds raised going towards future QLD climbing events and supporting QLD teams representing at national and international events. The menu will consist of meat and vegetarian BBQ options as well as a selection of other healthy snacks. ENTERTAINMENT AND SPONSOR STALLS Entertainment in the form of games and prizes hosted by the sponsors of the Lead Festival will be ongoing throughout the event, especially during the interim periods between rounds and finals. Indoor and Outdoor seating will be available to rest weary legs. Event sponsors will be setting up stalls at the festival in which they will have special event deals on their products. 4

6 INTERIM TIMETABLE The following timetable is a draft and subject to change. Times are approximate and will vary depending on the running of the event. All climbers are advised to be at the event and ready to climb at all times. SATURDAY 7TH MAY * The following timetable is a draft and subject to change. ** Times are approximate and will vary depending on the running of the event. All climbers are advised to be at the event and ready to climb at all times. SESSION 1 QUALIFICATIONS Categories Youth D (Top rope) Youth C (Top rope) Registration Briefing Qualifications 1+2 Qualification results Appeals period closes 7.30 to 8.15am 8.30am 8.45am to 12.00pm 12.15pm 12.30pm Categories Youth B (Lead) Youth A (Lead) Junior (Lead) Registration Briefing Qualifications 1+2 Qualification results Appeals period closes 7.30 to 8.15am 8.30am 8.45am to 1.00pm 1.15pm 1.30pm 5

7 SESSION 2 - FINALS Categories Youth D (Top rope) Youth C (Top rope) Isolation Competitor viewing climbing Finals Finals results Appeals period closes Presentations 12.30pm to 12.45pm 1.15pm 1.30pm 2.30pm 2.45pm 3.00pm Categories Youth B (Lead) Youth A (Lead) Junior (Lead) Isolation Competitor viewing climbing Finals Finals results Appeals period closes Presentations 2.30pm to 2.45pm 3.15pm 3.30pm 4.30pm 4.45pm 5.00pm 6

8 SUNDAY 8TH MAY * The following timetable is a draft and subject to change. ** Times are approximate and will vary depending on the running of the event. All climbers are advised to be at the event and ready to climb at all times. SESSION 3 QUALIFICATIONS Categories Masters (Lead) Open C (Top rope) Open B (Lead) Registration Briefing Qualifications 1+2 Qualification results Appeals period closes 7.30 to 8.15am 8.30am 8.45am to 12.00pm 1.15pm 1.30pm Categories Open A (Lead) Registration Briefing Qualifications 1+2 Qualification results Appeals period closes 7.30 to 8.15am 8.30am 8.45am to 12.00pm 1.15pm 1.30pm 7

9 SESSION 4 - FINALS Categories Masters (Lead) Open C (Top rope) Open B (Lead) Isolation Competitor viewing climbing Finals Finals results Appeals period closes Presentations 2.00pm to 2.15pm 2.45pm 3.00pm 4.00pm 4.15pm 6.15pm Categories Open A (Lead) Isolation Competitor viewing climbing Finals Finals results Appeals period closes Presentations 3.45pm to 4.00pm 4.30pm 4.45pm 5.45pm 6.00pm 6.15pm 8

10 OFFICIALS AND RULES Rules for the event will be detailed in the briefing period before the commencement of each session of competition. Any questions or clarification regarding the rules must be asked during this time. EVENT OFFICIALS Event Organiser Sponsorship co-ordinator Head Judge & Jury president Head Route Setter Registration Safety and belay officer Volunteer co-ordinator David Rowland and Graeme Mendonca Lauren Walker Roger Brandon Robert Parer, Daniel Gordon, Kurt Doherty Jin Chan Paul Slatterly and Andrew Lightfoot Paige Erpf OFFICIALS Officials will be selected closer to the event. However, any complaints or contests can be directed to the acting head Judge on the day. Queries regarding routes and technicalities can be directed to the Jury president. Questions regarding format, registration and any other queries can be directed to the event organiser. CLIMBING RULES To compete in the competition the climber acknowledges all information detailed in this handbook and agrees to abide by SCQ and the rocks procedures. The competition will use the IFSC rules 2016 as a guideline. A copy of these can be downloaded from: The competition will use the SCA competition policy. A copy of these can be downloaded from: /Comp%20Policies/General%20%20-%20Ranking,%20titles%20and%20medals.pdf Please Note: SCQ has introduced a $50 appeals process as of 13 th April It will cost competitors a $50 deposit to make an appeals claim either after their qualifying rounds or their finals rounds. If a competitor s appeal is successful they will receive their deposit back. By registering for this competition, the climber authorises The Rock, SCQ & SCA to the use of images/photographs/movies that may be taken at the event. To revoke authorisation of the use of personal photographs taken from the event, the climber must submit in writing no later than the 22nd of May. 9

11 RESULTS Results in each category will be decided by ranking in the on-sight final. Count-back to the precedent rounds will be used in the result of a tie in the final. If results are still tied, time on the final route will be used to decide the places. BELAYERS & JUDGES Only designated volunteer SCQ belayers & judges will belay/judge for the event. VOLUNTEERING The QLD State Lead Climbing Titles are a big and exciting event made possible only thru the generous efforts of sponsors and volunteers. We are always looking for volunteers to help as judges, belayers and general helpers. Even if you are competing it is possible to volunteer at other times during the weekend and volunteers who help out for more than a single session over the course of the weekend will receive one of the highly sought after competition volunteer shirts. If you are interested in volunteering for this year s QLD State Lead Climbing Titles please contact the SCQ at: volunteer@sportclimbingqueensland.com. EVENT SPONSORS 10

12 RULES The following is using the IFSC rules 2016 as a guideline: SCORING AND TIMING The jury for each route shall be a Route Judge, designated on the event day. SCORING On each route, competitors shall be scored as follow: Any competitor who has successfully completed the route shall be scored as such by indicating TOP ; In respect of any competitor who has fallen or had their attempt on the route terminated, the furthest hold held or used in the line of the route shall determine the competitor s score... As determined by the Judge: A hold shall be considered as controlled where a competitor has made use of the hold to achieve a stable or controlled position. The score of a competitor controlling a hold shall be the number assigned to that hold on the route sketch without any suffix; A hold from which a competitor has made a controlled climbing movement in the interest of progressing along the route shall be considered as used. The score of a competitor using a hold shall be the number assigned to that hold on the route sketch with a plus (+) suffix. This score is better than the score for controlling the same hold. Note: A controlled climbing movement may be either static or dynamic in nature and in general will be evidenced by: A significant change in position of the competitor's centre of mass; and The movement of at least one hand in order to reach either (i) the next hold along the line of the route; or (ii) any hold that has been successfully controlled by another competitor from the hold from which the climbing movement has been made. TIMING The climbing time for each competitor is the period between the start and completion of the competitor s attempt on a route, a maximum of 6 minutes. STARTING ORDER QUALIFICATION The starting order of the Qualification round within each Starting Group shall be as follows: The starting order for the first Qualification route shall be randomised. The starting order for the second Qualification route shall be in the same order of the first route but with a stagger of 50%. FINAL STARTING ORDER The starting order for the Final rounds shall be the reverse of the ranking order from the previous round, i.e. the highest ranked competitor shall start last. 11

13 COMPETITION PROCEDURE ISOLATION RULES Once the closing time for the Isolation Zone has passed, Competitors and/or Team officials must remain within the Isolation Zone unless otherwise instructed. Note: Competitors/Team Officials or other persons authorised by the head Judge or head official, to enter the Isolation Zone may choose to leave the Isolation Zone at any time, but having left the Isolation Zone they may not then return once the closing time has passed, and must leave the Competition Area, unless specifically authorised to remain by the head judge or head official. When the Isolation Rules apply, competitors shall have no knowledge of the routes other than that obtained during the official observation period or that communicated to them by the head judge or other judges. PREPARATION PRIOR TO CLIMBING After having received an official instruction to leave the Isolation Zone/Warm-Up area and proceed to the Call Zone, competitors shall not be accompanied by any person other than authorised officials. On arrival in the Call Zone, each competitor shall make all final preparations for their attempt, such as putting on their climbing shoes, tying on to the rope etc., as relevant to the type of competition. QUALIFICATION The Qualification round for each Category shall normally take place on two (2) non identical routes with all competitors in one (1) Starting Group. Other than for supplementary attempts required following an Appeal or Technical Incident, each competitor shall make one (1) attempt on each of the two (2) routes for their Starting Group. The fixed length of the climbing period in the Qualification round shall be six (6) minutes for each route. FINAL The fixed length of the climbing period in the Final rounds shall be six (6) minutes for each route. 12

14 OBSERVATION PROCEDURE GENERAL Each competitor shall be allowed a final observation period of 40 seconds from the time at which the competitor leaves the Call Zone. This final observation period shall not be part of the fixed climbing time for the route and shall be additional to any collective observation period in respect of the Qualification or Final rounds. If the competitor has not started their attempt at the end of this final observation period they shall be instructed to start immediately. QUALIFICATION If video recordings are not possible, a live demonstration of each Qualification route shall be made before the attempt of the first competitor. FINAL A collective observation period shall be held immediately prior to the commencement of the round. The observation period shall be decided by the head judge in consultation with the head Route-Setter and shall normally not exceed six (6) minutes for each route. In the case of unusually long routes, the period may be extended. Team Officials shall not be permitted to accompany the competitors during the observation period. While in the observation area, all competitors remain under the Isolation Rules. Competitors shall remain within the designated observation area during the observation period. Competitors are allowed to touch the first hold(s), without leaving the ground with both their feet. Competitors may use binoculars to observe the route or boulder, and make hand-drawn sketches and notes. No other observation or recording equipment shall be permitted. At the end of the observation period, competitors shall immediately return to the Isolation Zone. CLIMBING PROCEDURE THE START An attempt shall be deemed to have started, and measurement of the climbing time shall start, when every part of the competitor s body has left the ground. COMPLETION OF ATTEMPT An attempt on a route shall be considered successful if the route has been climbed in accordance with these rules and if the rope has been clipped into the karabiner on the final quickdraw of the route within the fixed time period for attempts. For Top- rope categories the final route on the climb but be controlled with one hand. DURING AN ATTEMPT ON A ROUTE The competitor must clip the quickdraws in sequence. 13

15 Note: Clipping the first quickdraw from the ground is permitted. Note: A competitor shall be allowed to un-clip and re-clip the last clipped karabiner. The competitor must remain in a legitimate position at all times, this will be the case if: The competitor s entire body has not moved beyond the karabiner at the lower end of the next unclipped quickdraw; or The competitor is able to touch the next unclipped quickdraw with a hand (without it being necessary to haul up the quickdraw with a foot). The Jury President may rule that one or more quickdraws must be clipped from a particular hold or earlier. In which case this information shall be announced to all competitors prior to the start of the round and the particular hold(s) and the quickdraw(s) shall be clearly marked, preferably with a blue cross, and pointed out during the route observation. Any movement of a competitor beyond the legitimate position to clip shall not result in a higher score. If a competitor clips the rope into a karabiner, but a Z-clip has occurred, the competitor shall correct the Z-clip. The competitor is permitted to un-clip and re-clip (if necessary, by down-climbing) any of the karabiners involved. After correction, all the protection points shall be clipped in. The Judge may order that a competitors attempt be terminated if they decide that further progress on the route would be dangerous. A competitor may ask at any time during their attempt on the route how much of the fixed climbing time remains, and the Judge shall immediately inform, or give instruction to inform, the competitor of the remaining time. When the fixed climbing time has ended, the Judge shall instruct, or give instruction to instruct the competitor to stop climbing. The attempt of a competitor on a route shall be considered unsuccessful if the competitor: Falls; Exceeds the fixed climbing time for the route; Uses any part of the wall, holds or features demarcated using continuous and clearly identifiable black tape (or if another colour is required to be used, as specified by the head judge in a technical briefing to competitors); Uses with their hands, holes provided in the climbing wall for the placement of bolt-on holds; Uses the side edges or the top edges of the wall for climbing; Makes use of hangers (including its bolts) or quickdraws for climbing; Fails to clip a quickdraw in accordance with the rules; Returns to the ground with any part of the body after having started their attempt; 14

16 RANKING AFTER EACH ROUND GENERAL On any route, each competitor attempting the route shall be ranked using the following criteria: First, all competitors scored as TOP ; Following a), all competitors who have fallen or had their attempt on the route terminated, in descending order of the score awarded to the competitor with the highest number in accordance with scoring. FAILURE TO START If a competitor fails to start: Both Qualification routes, they shall not be ranked; or One of their Qualification routes or the Final route, they shall be ranked last on that route. TIES If any competitors are tied following the ranking, then the ranking of these competitors from the previous round shall be used to break the tie ("count back"). Tied competitors shall be ranked relative to each other in ascending order of their ranking from the preceding round. If following the count back process competitors remain tied: If the tie relates to the results of the Final route, the relative ranking of these competitors will be determined by the climbing time for each (lower times are better); or Note: If the recorded time of any/all tied competitors is equal, then these competitors shall be ranked equal. If the tie relates to any other competitors, the relevant competitors will be given an equal ranking. 15

17 TECHNICAL INCIDENTS DEFINITION A Technical Incident is defined as any occurrence that results in a disadvantage or unfair advantage to a competitor which is not the result of an action on the part of the competitor, including: A broken or loose hold; An improperly positioned quickdraw or karabiner; A tight rope which either assists or hinders a competitor. The Judge, if necessary in consultation with the head Route-Setter shall make the confirmation or non-confirmation of a Technical Incident. EFFECT ON RESULTS Where, following the occurrence of a Technical Incident, the relevant competitor: Chooses to continue their attempt in the circumstances described above, the result of this attempt shall stand; Is afforded a further attempt on the route, the competitor shall be recorded as having achieved the best result of their attempts on the route. 16