TEACHING SPORTCLIMBING. Prof. Marla Mallari- Cuerdo UP College of Human Kinetics

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1 TEACHING SPORTCLIMBING Prof. Marla Mallari- Cuerdo UP College of Human Kinetics

2 Rock climbing ú the activity of climbing cliffs or large rocks, as a hobby or a sport, by means of specialized techniques and equipment.

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5 Sport climbing A form of rock climbing that relies on fixed anchors on the rock for the climber s protection. May be indoor or outdoor

6 Artificial rock climbing Artificial rock climbing (ARC) is the technical term for rock climbing done on man- made walls. Wood, cement, plastic

7 Climbing tower, Wooden and resin panels

8 ARC or Indoor sport/ rock climbing

9 Sport climbing competitions ú Has three basic formats: Difficulty, Speed and Bouldering Goal: to reach the summit or the top of a pre- defined route without falling.

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11 WHY CLIMBING?

12 Why climb? Health related fitness components Cardiovascular fitness Strength Muscular endurance Flexibility Body composition

13 Why climb? Skill related fitness components Power Speed Agility Coordination Reaction time Balance

14 Results from Research Discovered that climbing produced benefits in health and fitness ú Increased cardiorespiratory fitness and muscular endurance (Mermier, et al. 1997) ú Grip strength and improved upper body endurance were identified after 8 weeks of climbing (Baláš, Strejcová, Malý, Malá and Martin, 2009)

15 Results from Research ú Improved core strength and trunk mobility, as well as grip strength found in sedentary young adults after 8 weeks of indoor climbing (Muehlbauer, Stuerchler and Granacher, 2012)

16 UP Female College Students Participation of college females in a four- week climbing program produced significant reductions in waist girth and body fat% Improvements in the upper body strength and endurance, lower body power and core strength.

17 Other Studies: Motivational Current competitive sport skill related programs do not meet the needs or interest of some (Cook, Boyan, Mendelsohn, Green and Woolvett, 2007). Climbing presents itself as an alternative physical activity to both athletic as well as non- athletic students (Lirgg, Dibrezzo, Gray and Esslinger, 2011)

18 Sport climbing is a legitimate educational activity that would encourage the physical, mental, social and emotional growth of each participant (Ceciliani, Bardella, Grasso, Zabonati and Robazza, 2008; Cook, et al., 2007)

19 Climbing is Unique TRAINING FOR CLIMBING By Eric Horst TECHNICAL SKILL MENTAL SKILL PHYSICAL SKILL

20 Course Objectives 1. To introduce a sport or activity that the students may enjoy with their peers during their leisure time. 2. The student will be able to identify the basic climbing equipment used for sport climbing and their uses, and be comfortable using the equipment and safety commands for climbing. 3. To develop and improve the students level of fitness and consider sport climbing as an option to accomplish this. 4. To help the students learn responsibility for their own safety as well as their partner s safety while climbing.

21 SAFETY

22 ABCs of GYM CLIMBING ALWAYS warm up before climbing, and cool down and stretch after climbing to reduce after workout soreness. BE AWARE! Most gym accidents happen during lowering of the person climbing because this is when we are most dependent on the equipment and the skill of the belayer. Concentrate on the task at hand. CLIMBING SIGNALS should be used at all times. This is for the safety of your partner and yourself. DOUBLE CHECK gear, rope and safety system before leaving the ground.

23 ENJOY climbing, relax! Don t forget to breathe while executing difficult moves. FALLING on the rope is an integral part of climbing. Falling to the ground is not. This may result in serious injuries or death. Be aware specially when belaying down your partner. GYM CLIMBING IS NOT THE SAME AS ROCK CLIMBING!

24 Discussion Topics Brief history of climbing Learning the language Climbing Equipment ú brief discussion on the history, types, use, ratings and care for the equipment

25 Climbing equipment in the gym ú climbing wall, ropes, carabiners, belay devices

26 Climbing equipment Kernmantle rope Carabiners

27 REMEMBER Quality control of the ropes used in the gym and your personal rope should be of serious concern. In the gym, always check for rope hazards and correct them before they do damage to your lifeline.

28 REMEMBER Do not drop your carabiners. Check if your carabiner is locked before you start your climb.

29 Common belay devices Eight rings Petzl Grigri ATC or tubular

30 Personal equipment harness rock climbing shoes chalk/chalk bag

31 REMEMBER Your harness must fit snug above your hipbones and all buckles must be fastened properly. DOUBLE- BACK straps that need to be secured. The harder the route, the tighter the shoes!

32 Safety while climbing Climbing signals Belaying Climbing anchors Knot tying Back up

33 REMEMBER Always double- check each other for safety no matter how comfortable you feel with yourself or your partner. Also never release the brake hand when belaying.

34 Other topics include Types of handholds Basic climbing techniques Climbing routes Basic rules

35 Climbing Types & Competition Formats Top Rope Climbing Lead Climbing Bouldering no rope Speed Climbing on top rope Difficulty Event on lead

36 Bouldering

37 Interclass competitions

38 REMEMBER Most climbing accidents happen because of human error, NOT equipment failure. Climbing is dangerous when people get careless.

39 Stack the Odds in Your Favor! Climb Safely!