P r o v i s i o n a l C l i m b e r s G u i d e

Transcription

1 P r o v i s i o n a l C l i m b e r s G u i d e photo: Keith Bosak revised

2 Introduction hose who have climbed or put up new routes in the Bitterroot know that a word or two about T rock fall is obligatory. We repeat the warning in the Falcon Guide, Rock Climbing in Montana I general, the quality of the metamorphic granite found in [Mill Creek] is good. However, due to the underdeveloped nature of the canyon, only fools would venture on any new or multi-pitch route While old pins and bolts scattered here and there serve as scant evidence of the bold efforts of past climbers, all the routes listed in this guide are new. You may be making only the 2nd or 3rd ascent of a line, so expect a little loose rock and lichen, plus the occasional breaking foothold. Be aware that the N R M but it can quickly turn into an alpine setting. Also, because the canyon rim slopes into the top of the rock, strong gusts of wind, wildlife, the rare hiker, or a deranged trundler can send off lose rocks. Incredibly, the remains of an entire ceramic toilet have been found shattered on the slope at the base T F W J A course means to take extra caution about rock fall. Did we mention wearing a helmet? If you climb here from early-april to mid-j L B A B-rated horror T F Y I J J Lost Horse Canyon guide contains some information on ticks and recommendations for living with them (see p.24). Luckily, they are absent most of the year. Also, like all public land in Montana, hunters may be prevalent in the fall. Been wondering what to do with your old neon lycra or gear from the 80s? Consider wearing it during the fall hunting season. Finally, when parking at Cow Creek please notice the residents of Pinesdale have a sign up asking you to take it slow to keep the dust down and their children safe. The parking area is surrounded by homes; the usual common sense politeness will avoid problems and preserve access. (The gate opens in June, knocking a good 10 minutes off the hike.) All ratings are provisional and we appreciate feedback about grades, routes, etc. We also request any information about old routes and past climbers so that we can include it in this guide. Please your comments, first ascents, past ascents, or additional guide requests to: millcreeknorthrim@gmail.com In regards to development, the Lost Horse Canyon guide contains sound suggestions for putting up climbs in the Bitterroots (see p. 26). In addition, local hardman and prolific climber, Levi Parchen, has posted an excellent set of guidelines for bolting on his blog: bolting-etc.html N C W North Rim and have fun! Dane Scott & Ken Turley

3 Michael Moore on Snaggletooth photo: Tim Karst

4 Driving Directions Highway 93 south from Missoula toward Hamilton. Mile marker 54, look for Sheafman Creek Road on the right Turn west and drive 1 mile to the top of a short steep hill Turn sharp left to stay on Sheafman Creek Follow the road a couple of miles including a sharp right curve At stop sign turn left onto Main and drive into Pinesdale A C T Turn right onto West Cow Creek dirt road Drive slowly through the neighborhood Park at gate (1/2 mile), or if gate open, park at right hairpin (1 mile) Approach trail begins at hairpin Eagle Head Buttress Lower Tier / Pie Upper Tier / Proof Tiger Stripe Tick Farm First Sector Overview

5 Approach Trail cairn

6 Tick Farm Tick Farm is the small wall below the large ledge located at the head of the approach gully. Climbs are longer and more involved than they appear. Each is unique and engaging and offers an introduction to N R F -quality routes certainly lie elsewhere. The climbs can be climbed easily with a 60m (or shorter) rope, 6 to 10 draws and a couple pieces of optional gear. Routes finish at Fixe ring top anchors for easy lowering and top-roping. 1. Tick Magnet 5.10a. 4 Bolts. About 30 feet from the left end of the wall. Finish at anchors beneath Shere Khan on main ledge. 2. Involuntary Tick 5.9. Bolts. Finish at anchors on main ledge. 3. Tick Man B 4. Ticked Off 5.10c. 7 Bolts. Delicate old school no-hands stand-up beneath last bolt. Avoid going left before last bolt. 5. Birthday Tick 5.10a. Bolts and one piece of gear at start. Put up with Keith the day after his birthday, hangover and all. Quality fun! 6. Witness the Tickness 5.11a. 10 Bolts. Bouldery start, powerful crux, and plenty of climbing above. Great route!

7 Birthday Tick photo: Keith Bosak Tiger Stripe / Tick Farm

8 Tiger Stripe Tiger Stipe is the orange and black striped wall located above the main ledge that caps the Tick Farm wall. The wall varies from vertical to gently overhanging and offers two excellent, pump-inducing routes, a moderate gear line, and tons of potential for more. Approach by climbing Tick Magnet or diagonal in from the left on the first short pitch of Tick Traverse. 1. Shere Khan 5.11b. 10 Bolts. A contender for the single best pitch at the North Rim! Ninety feet of overhanging rock with few rests. Reminiscent of Back of the Lake at Lake Louise. Bring your endurance. Belayer for leader should be stationed at anchors on ledge. A doubled 70m will reach ground from top anchors and a leader can lower to ledge or to ground and belay second from there. If you have a 60m plan to lower back to ledge then rap. 2. Tiger by the Tail 5.10d. 9 bolts. Stiff section in black rock 1st and 2nd bolts, then pumpy fun to the anchors. Good warmup for Shere Khan. 3. Tick Traverse 5.7. Two enoyable gear pitches to bolted anchors. Rap with 60m to anchors at top of Involuntary Tick. First pitch starts in staging area at left extreme of Tick Farm wall. Avoid going straight up in left-facing corner (big loose blocks). Instead, follow weaknesses diagonally right past a few placements to Shere Khan anchors. 2nd G Tick Traverse P1 Tick Magnet

9 Beginning the Upper Crux, Shere Khan photo: Dane Scott

10 Upper Tier F T F 3rd class moves to gain the next tier and ledge system. Proof of Concept is directly above at this point. There are three routes on the upper tier. The routes are long, sustained and gently overhanging. For single pitch sport, No Drama Obama and Proof of Concept, along with Shere Khan on the Tiger Stripe, are the money routes. Climbs can be done with a 60m, but a 70m is recommended. Include a couple of runners with your draws to manage bulges and rope drag. Bolt counts are believed to be accurate but add a draw or two. 1. Snaggletooth 5.10a. 8 Bolts. Couple small cams or wires. Good intro to the wall 2. No Drama Obama 5.11b. 13 Bolts. An excellent, sustained route. Expect at least a little drama near the top. 3. Proof of Concept 5.11d. 13 Bolts. Belayer knot the rope for lowering! A 60m will not reach ground level below the 3rd class step. This route is highly recommended. The Tempest of the North Rim, but much harder.

11 Pie for Strength 5.11b Pitch 4 18m 9+ Super fun route. Each slightly bulging pitch is quality, challenging and varied. 4 Pitches. A dozen draws. One rope. Can be done with a 60m, but if rapping, be certain to knot your ends! A doubled 60m barely reaches from P3 anchors to P2 anchors. Pitch 3 30m 11a/b (Optional) Access top of 3rd pitch from Upper Tier routes using large ledge system. Pitch 1: 10c. 8 bolts. 20m Pitch 2: 10d. 8 bolts. 20m (keep left last bolt) Pitch 3: 11a/b. 12 bolts. 30m Pitch 4: approx 8 bolts. 18m 10c Pitch 2 20m 10d 10c Pitch 1 20m

12 Route Credits First Sector (Tick Farm through Lower Tier) Birthday Tick Tick Farm. Dane Scott, Keith Bosak, Wylie Carr (Nov 2009) Involuntary Tick Tick Farm. Scott, Kurt Krueger, Tim Karst (Jun 2009) No Drama Obama Upper Tier. Scott & Ken Turley (May 2009) Pie for Strength Lower Tier. Scott & Turley (Mar 2010) Proof of Concept Upper Tier. Scott & Turley (May 2009) Shere Khan Tiger Stripe. Scott & Turley (May 2010) Snaggletooth Upper Tier. Scott, Keith Bosak (May 2009) Tick Magnet Tick Farm. Karst & Michael Moore (May 2010) Tick Man Tick Farm. Scott & Turley (Oct 2009) Tick Traverse Tiger Stripe. Krueger (May 2010) Ticked Off Tick Farm. Scott, Bosak & Krueger (Nov 2009) Tiger by the Tail Tiger Stripe. Scott, Turley & Krueger (May 2010) Witness the Tickness Tick Farm. Scott & Turley (Apr 2010)