Knowledge Based Testing. Study Guide. Module 1 Snow and Ice Rescue Revised 11/11/2010

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1 Knowledge Based Testing Study Guide Multiple Choice (Select all that are correct) Module 1 Snow and Ice Rescue Revised 11/11/ abde Heat loss from radiation can be reduced by which of the following measures: a) Covering the victim in dry, insulating material. b) Getting the victim into a sleeping bag. c) Providing warm liquids that do not contain caffeine or alcohol. d) Wrapping the victim in a space blanket. e) Getting inside a shelter. 2 abcde Identify correct statements regarding elements of safe route selection. a) Favor the edges of slopes where avalanches are less likely to occur. b) Safe terrain zones should always be close in case an avalanche occurs. c) Be suspicious of the convex rollover at the top of a slope - a point of stress that can trigger an avalanche. d) Be careful of shaded slopes in winter. e) Be careful of sunny slopes in the spring. 3 abcde Identify the statements that are TRUE concerning avalanche evaluation. a) Most avalanches occur on steep slopes greater than 25-degrees but less than 45-degrees b) The most probable avalanche slope angle is 38-degrees. c) Trees, vegetation and rocks beneath the snow may serve as anchors that tend to stabilize the snow pack, until the snow has covered them. Once covered, these foreign bodies can inhibit the bonding of the snow pack layers. d) Avalanches may be triggered - unexpectedly - from particularly weak snow next to rocks and bushes. e) It is important to realize that the snow is connected and you may trigger an avalanche on a steeper slope above or below you. 4 bce If building an anchor system in the snow with three anchor points, which would be acceptable angles for each leg. a) 110 degrees b) 90 degrees c) 45 degrees d) 120 degrees e) 30 degrees 5 ce Proper rope management for hiking near crevasse is to keep the rope at a) 45 degrees to the crevasse b) 30 degrees to the crevasse c) 90 degrees to the crevasse d) 120 degrees to the crevasse e) right angle to the crevasse 6 c Studies have shown that the average gripping ability on rope In motion with one hand is approximately: a) 15 lb f b) 25 lb f c) 50 lb f d) 75 lb f e) 100 lb f 1

2 7 d The basic winter outdoor clothing system consists of layers. Which of the following statements is FALSE? a) A layer next to the skin which should allow perspiration to "wick" away from the skin because wet garments in contact with the skin can cause heat loss. b) An outdoor shell layer that should provide protection from wind, rain, and sun. c) The layer next to the skin is frequently marketed under the names Capilene, Polypropylene and Smart Wool. d) The layer next to the skin is known as the insulating layer. e) An Insulating layer should trap warm air next to the body. The thicker the layer of trapped air, the warmer you will be. 8 abe The basic winter outdoor clothing system consists of layers. Which of the following statements is FALSE? a) An insulating layer is in contact with the skin and "wicks" moisture away from the skin to outer layers. b) All clothing used for the layering system must be kept absolutely dry. This is the function of the waterproof layer. c) An outdoor shell layer should provide protection from wind, rain, and sun. d) The layer next to the skin is frequently marketed under the names Capilene, Polypropylene and Smart Wool. e) A fleece lined waterproof rain suit provides a good outer layer that will not trap moisture. 9 ce What is FALSE regarding footwear for the alpine environment? a) Alpine footwear is constructed of leather or a composite of leather and fabric, or of plastic with inner insulating boots. b) For technical climbing, boots need to be stiff-soled to allow front-pointing crampon techniques. c) Plastic backcountry ski boots with liners are a reasonably flexible, comfortable, versatile boot, well suited for climbing as well as backcountry skiing. d) Boots should be fitted while wearing the same type of sock and sock liners that will be used in the backcountry. e) Titanium boots with insulating insert are a very lightweight alternative to leather or plastic, but the cost is much higher. 10 bd Which are acceptable dimensions for a snow bollard in hard ice a) 6" deep x 18' wide x 18" long b) 18" deep x 5' wide x 7' long c) 1' deep x 8' wide x 4' long d) 18" deep x 4' wide x 5' long e) 6" deep x 18" wide x 2' long 11 b Which of the following are FALSE statements regarding heat loss and how to minimize the effects of heat loss? a) Heat is lost from the body due to evaporation when we perspire. b) Endo-thermoregulation refers to the body's unconscious control of body temperature. Exo-thermoregulation refers to active measures a person may take to control temperature c) Heat is lost from the body due to radiation when the body generates heat that is not contained by adequate clothing. d) A patient that displays uncontrolled shivering, lack of coordination and mumbling has lost body heat and is displaying signs of hypothermia. e) Heat is lost from the body due to convection when currents of air or water pass over the body. 12 abd Which of the following are parts of an ice axe a) Adze b) Pick c) Handle d) Spike e) Stanchion 13 abd Which of the following are standard MRT uses for an ice axe? a) Boot-axe belay b) Carabiner-ice axe belay c) Avalanche probe d) Dead-man anchor e) Femur Splint 14 ad Which of the following is FALSE regarding the ice axe? a) General mountaineering axes have an adze and a pick, while technical ice climbing axes have a dual adze. b) The adze is used mainly to cut steps in hard snow or ice. c) The flat top of the ice axe provides a firm, comfortable platform for your hand when you are using the self belay grasp. d) An ice axe adze and pick should be sharpened with a grinding wheel at an angle of degrees e) The spike of an ice axe should be kept sharpened with a file. 2

3 15 ad Which of the following is FALSE regarding the use of an avalanche probe? a) Avalanche probes are commercially manufactured rescue tools, but a ski pole with the basket removed is just as effective. b) Spot probing consists of probing at strongly suspected burial locations. c) A formal probe line advances under the command of the probe leader. d) Avalanche dogs are able to provide more accurate victim locations than signals from an avalanche beacon and should be used to narrow the scope of a search once a beacon signal is received. e) Formal probe searches for avalanche victims, using the probe line search, are not effective as they take too much time, even for small areas. 16 be Which of the following is FALSE regarding the use of an avalanche probe? a) Avalanche probes can result in serious injury to a victim. The avalanche probe rule is "Probe onto others as you would like to be probed upon." b) Areas above the reported Point Last Seen (PLS) should never be spot probed, as it is not possible for the victim to be carried uphill by an avalanche c) An appropriate probe technique entails applying pressure to the probe slowly, until resistance is felt. d) In the absence of commercial avalanche probes, use of wands, ski poles and ice axes is an acceptable alternative. e) To assure adequate resources are available to a rescue team, half should carry avalanche probes and the other half should carry shovels. 17 abe Which of the following would be a belay method for the snow that would also be a "MRT standard"? a) Carabiner-ice ax belay b) Hip belay c) Petzl Microcender d) Petzl Grigri e) Boot-ax belay 18 acd You are on a hasty team traveling on snowshoes. The team is moving fast and after 20 minutes of hiking, you're starting to sweat. What are your best courses of action to minimize the risk of hypothermia? a) Ask the team leader to set a slightly slower pace b) Let the team go ahead, but keep moving at a rate that reduces sweating c) Tell the team leader you need to stop briefly to remove one or more layers d) Hydrate to replace the water you have lost through sweating e) Place a water bottle filled with snow inside your clothing to draw off the excess heat 19 abde Which of the following would be considered MRT required winter PPE? a) ice axe b) Crampons c) Snow Flukes d) Winter Gloves or Mittens e) Winter Socks 20 ac Which statements are TRUE in regards to making a self- arresting while on your back a) Keep the axe close to your body b) While turning reach as high as you can with the axe to get as much leverage as possible c) Keep a firm grasp on the head and lower portion of the shaft d) While turning push the spike into the snow as hard as possible to stop your fall e) Dig the heels of your boots into the snow 21 abc Heat loss due to conduction can be reduced by which of the following measures: a) Sitting on your sleeping pad or backpack b) Sit and sleep on forest duff rather than on rock, gravel or snow. c) Purchase high quality winter footwear with thick mid-soles and those with lugged soles (which minimize direct contact with the ground surface). d) Purchase clothing with adjustable cuffs and hems that can be fully opened or fully closed. Clothing with adjustable cuffs and hems that can be fully opened or fully closed e) Avoid over-exerting and perspiring. 22 acde Which of the following would be considered MRT required winter PPE? a) Long underwear b) Matches or Fire starters c) Balaclava d) Hydration system e) Insulated parka or Gore-Tex jacket with fleece liner 3

4 23 d Which of the following is FALSE regarding snow travel in an avalanche prone area? a) Never go into the Backcountry by yourself. Remember you need someone to dig you out if you get buried in an avalanche. b) Always travel one at a time through avalanche paths, start and run out zones. Keeping other team members in a safe area will allow for a rescue if something happens. c) Always plan an escape route before you cross exposed areas, or potential avalanche areas. d) When crossing high exposure zones, try and cross as low as possible. If an avalanche occurs it is better to be in an area where the snow will lose most of its energy. e) If you find yourself on a cornice, stay away from the edge and have your team spread out. 24 bcd Which of the following are considerations for operations in avalanche terrain? a) Obtaining a public avalanche forecast before departure is the single most effective measure against being caught in an avalanche during snow operations. b) When practical, perform a snowpack analysis using a quick shovel shear test. c) Obtain a weather report prior to departure into the backcountry. d) Avalanche transceiver must be tested before deployment. e) Critical separation may change due to changing terrain conditions, rendering the avalanche beacons useless. 25 abcde In building a deadman anchor which are acceptable pieces of equipment or material to use a) Picket b) Ice Axe c) Backpack d) Rock e) Log 26 abcd Which pieces of equipment can be used as a multi point anchor system a) Picket b) Fluke c) Ice Ax d) Back pack e) Snow Bollard 27 bd Choose the correct ways to probe when the rescuer has located the vicinity of the victim with an avalanche beacon and has marked a box where victim will be within. a) Probe each corner first then probe from corner to corner making an "x" pattern. b) Start at the center and probe with a spiral pattern c) It is fastest to randomly probe, time is of the essence. You should not waste time doing a pattern d) Starting at the center probing in a pattern that is right angles to the box until the entire box has been probed e) Probe using concentric circles that are no more than 40 feet apart. 28 ab In the snow when the ropes are wet cold and frozen which type of capture device would be allowable a) Prusik b) Rescuscender c) Microcender d) Mechanical ascender e) Spectra runners 29 abcde What can be used as components of an ascending system when tying in for glacier travel a) Prusik slings b) Etriers c) Texas prusik d) Mechanical ascenders e) Spectra runners 30 abcde When you find yourself in the unfortunate position of have fallen into a crevasse, you should a) Relax b) S.T.O.P. c) Secure your equipment d) Attain upright position e) Rig ascenders 31 abcde What steps should you take if a climbing partner falls in a crevasse. a) Secure a anchor system b) Communicate with the fallen climber c) Devise a plan d) Stop the fall e) Carry out the plan 4

5 32 bcd Heat loss from convection can be reduced by which of the following measures: a) Separating the victim from the ground with a insulating pad b) Covering the victim in dry, insulating material. c) Wearing clothing with an wind-resistant outer layer d) Getting the victim into a shelter out of the wind. e) Breathing through a balaclava or muffler to warm the air entering your lungs 33 bd While hiking along a ridge major concerns would be a) Seracs b) Cornice c) Snout d) Wind e) Rock Band 34 abd Which of the following would be considered MRT required winter PPE? a) Ski Goggles or sunglasses b) Snow Shovel c) Leatherman or Multi-tool knife d) Insulated boots or plastic mountaineering boots e) GPS or compass 35 abc When determining terrain factors when evaluating avalanche danger, which factors should you consider a) Slope b) Aspect c) Configuration d) Snowpack e) Snow crystal type 36 ace Identify the statements that are TRUE concerning avalanche evaluation. a) Slope aspect - the direction the slope faces - affects the consolidation of the snowpack. b) It is always safe to travel in a tree covered slope that shows no indication of previous avalanche activity. c) Unstable wind slabs often form on the down-wind (lee) side of ridges, so windward slopes tend to be safer than leeward slopes. d) The probable fracture line of a corniced crest can easily be determined by diligent ice axe probing. e) A gully is an example of an avalanche terrain trap. 37 bcde Route finding aids would consist of a) Slopeometer b) Compass c) GPS d) Wands e) Altimeter 38 abcd Which are contributing factors to avalanche hazards a) Snowpack b) Weather c) Terrain d) People e) Automobiles 39 be Identify the statements that are FALSE concerning avalanche evaluation. a) Terrain traps are one of the three main terrain factors that affect avalanche danger. b) Avalanches cannot occur on slopes greater than 45-degrees. This is because it is not possible for snow to accumulate on slopes of that steepness. c) Forested areas with flagged trees should serve as an indicator of potential avalanche danger. d) Avalanches are unlikely to originate in a dense forest, but an avalanche can run through a dense forest from above. e) A south facing slope will always be more avalanche prone than a north facing slope. 40 d Which of the following statements are FALSE regarding avalanche evaluation? a) The "slab configuration" and "composition of the snowpack" are phrases with the same meaning in avalanche evaluation. b) A slab configuration, especially strong layers over weak layers increase the likelihood of an avalanche. c) Small well rounded snow crystals that are densely packed form strong snow pack layers. d) A consolidated snowpack is inherently unstable. e) For an avalanche to occur, something must disturb the balance between snow pack strength and the stresses on the snow pack. 5

6 41 c Which of the following is FALSE regarding an ice axe? a) The main role of an ice axe is to assist balance and help prevent falls b) For self-arrest on snow or ice covered slopes. c) An ice axe may be used as an axe to acquire firewood below the snowline. d) The head of an ice axe consists of the pick and the adze e) The carabiner hole is used to attach an ice axe leash. 42 ac Identify incorrect statements regarding elements of safe route selection. a) The majority of avalanches occur on slopes greater than 45-degrees. b) Avoid gullies, which can be chutes for large quantities of snow that can deeply bury you or sweep you away. c) When selecting a safe route leeward slopes are preferred as they tend to be protected from the unstabilizing effects of the wind. d) Keep aware of the run-out zone below snow slopes and gullies, especially avoiding areas with cliffs below. e) Travel at night or early morning is safer than travel under the mid-afternoon sun. 43 bc Identify the statements that are FALSE concerning avalanche evaluation. a) The safest course along a corniced crest is well behind the probable fracture line. b) Collapsing cornices do not cause avalanches; rather, avalanches typically result in the collapse of a cornice. Thus, travel on or near cornices need not be avoided. c) A ridge should be a route of last resort due to the extremely high potential for avalanche prone cornices that may have been formed by wind. d) The orientation the slope to the Sun and wind has a significant impact on avalanche potential e) A north facing slope may increase avalanche potential. 44 bd Which of the following statements are FALSE regarding avalanche evaluation? a) The weight of a climber can stress the snowpack b) Graupel, or 'soft hail', is a snow crystal that is roughly spherical in shape. Heavy deposits of these BB sized graupel crystals during a storm can significantly increase the probability of an avalanche on slopes as little as 10-degrees. c) When the strength of the snowpack is greater than the stresses from gravity, consolidation, temperature, water content, and weight, then the snowpack is stable. d) When the composition of the snowpack is characterized by weak layers over strong layers the likelihood of an avalanche is increased. e) Faceted or "sugary" snow crystals form weak layers in the snowpack. 45 abcde Which of the following are specific conditions leading to hypothermia: a) Wearing clothes that are not warm enough for weather conditions b) Staying out in the cold too long c) Unable to get out of wet clothes or move to a warm, dry location d) Accidental falls in water or snow e) Physical exercise resulting in dehydration 46 abcde Crevasses form: a) Where angle of slope increases significantly b) From tension on snow and ice c) When glaciers turn d) Where valley walls narrows or expands e) Around bedrock features that obstruct glacier flow. 47 be Which statements regarding avalanche evaluation are FALSE? a) While the formation of either depth hoar or surface hoar does not impose an immediate avalanche danger, once covered by subsequent snowfall, the avalanche danger increases. b) Temperature changes, within the snowpack, result in thawing and refreezing of the snowpack and can reduce avalanche potential within as little as a day. c) The snowpack adapts poorly to sudden changes in the weather, increasing avalanche potential. d) Avalanche danger increases with heavy precipitation either solid (snow or hail) or liquid (rain). e) Although the atmospheric ambient temperature above the snow pack can change significantly, the temperature within a snowpack remains relatively constant due to the insulating properties of snow. 6

7 Multiple Choice (Select the single best answer) 48 b A crampon technique in the French style: to rest on high-angle ice with one foot tucked under the buttocks, toes pointed straight down-slope. a) cross stepping b) pied assis c) Rest step d) pied a pointe e) glutes 49 b A crampon technique in the French style: to walk on moderate-angle ice with toes pointed outward; literally, "duck footed". a) Duck stepping b) Pied en canard c) Herringbone d) Off piste e) Opus spicatum 50 c A crevasse that forms where the glacier pulls away from a rock formation. a) Ditch b) Rampart c) Moat d) Channel e) Depression 51 c A flag tree is: a) A pile of dead wood at the bottom of a slope b) A tree with a flag on it. c) A tree that has been hit by avalanches and looks bent downslope d) A species of tree e) A tree that gets hit by avalanches and looks bent upslope 52 e A snow fluke should always be used in combination with a) Another snow fluke b) Picket c) Bollard d) Dead-man anchor e) None of the above 53 b Avalanches are more likely to initiate on or near a) Concave slopes b) Convex slopes c) Sections of uniform slope angle d) Duplex slopes e) equally likely for any slope profile 54 d Bergdchrunds are most commonly found where a) In snow fields b) Along ridges c) Lower end of couloirs d) Upper limit of glacier e) Seracs 55 e List the reasons why a helicopter should never attempt a snow rescue a) Cold temperatures can impede rotor blade function b) Blade wash could cause white out conditions c) Wind from blade wash could blow rescuers or equipment over a crevasse edge d) At higher altitudes cold air is to thin to support helicopters from functioning e) None of the above 56 d Moats are: a) Areas at the bottom of a Glacier basin which has melted and become slushier b) Gullies with crevasses c) Result from glacier runoff d) Occur when snow partially melts and settles away from warmer rocks and trees. e) Associated with lower ends of couloirs, as debris accumulates and runoff accumulates. 7

8 57 e Most, but not all, avalanches (90%) occur on slopes between a) 35-degrees to 45-degrees b) 25-degrees to 50-degrees c) 0-degrees to 90-degrees d) 10-degrees-35-degrees e) 30-degrees to 45-degrees 58 d The best anchor to use for a running belay while traveling, roped in a four man team is a) Deadman b) Fluke c) Bollard d) Picket e) Ice Ax 59 b The most underestimated trigger point is a) Convex area of the slope b) Concave area of the slope c) Single trees d) Cornice e) Rock outcroppings 60 c What is FALSE regarding footwear for the alpine environment a) Boots should have high uppers to support and protect the ankle in rough terrain. b) The sole of the boot should have a Vibram type lug sole for traction on slippery vegetation, mud, and snow c) Breathable, Gor-Tex materials are unacceptable for boots as they will leak during prolonged exposure to snow d) The junction between the sole and the upper should be waterproof e) Boots should be considered that are crampon and snowshoe compatible. 61 e What would be the minimum number of horizontal snow picket anchors required for a snow rescue in accordance with MRT practices? a) 1 b) 2 c) 3 d) 4 e) No minimum (or maximum); it would depend on factors such as snow conditions, slope and the anticipated load 62 d When travel on a glacier with a 3-person team, what is the amount of rope the end persons needs to coil a) 10 ft b) 10 arm lengths c) Amount of rope from middle person to end person d) Amount of rope from middle person to end person plus ten feet e) No coil is needed for glacier travel 63 e When calculating mechanical advantage for a fallen climber in a crevasse you should add what factor to your equation to allow for additional friction of the snow a) 2 b) 3 c) 4 d) 6 e) 0 64 c When ice climbing on steep slopes the preferred climbing technique is: a) Australian b) American c) German d) French e) Bavarian 65 d When ice climbing on gentle to moderate slopes the preferred climbing technique is: a) Australian b) American c) German d) French e) Bavarian 8

9 66 c When it is absolutely necessary to travel through a known avalanche field, and when the conditions are such that there is a "considerable" probability of an avalanche, you should. a) Cross at the lower portion of the avalanche field so you can see the avalanche approaching and have enough time to get out of the way b) Cross in the middle of the field giving yourself a 50/50 chance of the avalanche being above or below you c) Cross as high as possible d) Move up the middle of the avalanche, from the bottom to the top of the field, giving yourself good visibility and the option to move to either side e) Move up the middle of the avalanche, from the top to the bottom of the field, giving yourself good visibility and the option to move to either side 67 d Which is the most important factor to consider when evaluating thermoregulation in relation to proper winter headgear? a) As the body gets cold, it reduces blood flow to the extremities in an attempt to warm the brain and vital organs. b) Warm insulating hats are constructed of wool, polypropylene, or polyester fleece materials. c) Balaclavas are versatile insulators because they can cover your face, ears, nose and neck. d) Headgear should be loose and comfortable, as a very tight fitting hat reduces upper body and cranial blood flow to a degree that can be is as detrimental as no hat at all. e) A hat with a bill provides sun protection and can keep rain & snow off goggles or glasses. 68 c Which of the following are FALSE statements regarding heat loss and how to minimize the effects of heat loss? a) Avoid dehydration; if you do become dehydrated, replenish fluids. b) Have adequate insulation. c) Our body temperature can be reduced due to conduction when we become wet and are exposed to a windy environment. d) As rescuers we can actively rewarm a hypothermia patient by applying an external heat source to the body. e) As rescuers we can warm the central core of the body by applying heat packs to the lateral chest, neck, armpits, and groin. 69 e Which of the following is a FALSE statement? a) A safe route would be on ridge tops, slightly on the windward side b) Avoid cornices from above or below. c) Since most avalanches occur within twenty-four hours of a storm and or at midday, avoid moving during these periods. d) Take advantage of dense timber, ridges, or rocky outcrops as islands of safety. e) If you must traverse a slope, pick a line where you can traverse uphill as quickly as possible. 70 e Which of the following is a FALSE statement? a) A safe route would be out in the valley, far from the bottom of slopes. b) Should you encounter a dangerous slope, either climb to the top of the slope or descend to the bottom - well out of the way of the run-out zone. c) Moving at night is tactically sound and may be safer. d) Spend as little time as possible on open slopes. e) When you must descend a dangerous slope, glissading directly down the center distributes stress throughout the slope. 71 d Which of the following is FALSE regarding the use of an avalanche probe? a) At the site of a suspected 'hit', the probe should be left in the snow and the snow around the probe removed. b) Commercially available ski poles, specifically designed to connect together to form an avalanche probe, are a poor substitute for a commercially available avalanche probe. c) Probe lines are formed with about 20 people in a single file line, abreast of one another d) When fewer than 20 personnel are available, the distance between probers should be increased to assure the same coverage per unit of time as a 20-person probe line e) Suspected 'hit' locations should be dug out by shovel teams separate from probe line personnel. 72 e Which of the following is NOT a consideration for operations in avalanche terrain? a) If an avalanche is observed nearby, there is an increased likelihood that nearby unstable areas have been relieved of stress and are inherently more stable following the avalanche. b) Constantly reassess the environmental conditions. c) Obtain the weather forecast for the area of operations. d) Assure all members are trained and equipped for winter operations. e) When traveling in an area with a high probability of avalanche activity, you should carry your shovel in your hand to assure you have the means at hand to assist in digging yourself out should you get trapped in an avalanche. 73 a Which of the following is NOT a factor to consider as related to the Layering System for cold weather operations? a) Layering clothing will result in the least weight and bulk possible. b) Layering makes it easier to adapt to fluctuating temperatures and conditions in the mountains. c) Layering provides a means to keep body temperature comfortable at all times. d) Layering with synthetic clothing will result in greater insulating properties than wool, but wool will keep you warm even when wet, although it is heavier. e) Wicking transports moisture away from your body, but wicking materials do not absorb water. 9

10 74 e Which of the following is NOT a TRUE statement regarding heat loss, and how to minimize the effects of heat loss? a) Avoid being exposed to the wind. If you cannot, at least get out of the wind as soon as possible. b) Heat is lost from the body due to conduction and convection when we are inadequately dressed. c) Heat is lost from the body due to respiration when we exhale warm air. d) Avoid becoming wet. If you do get wet, get out of the weather and into dry clothes. e) You find that you are becoming overheated in the early afternoon sun, and have already removed your outer shell and your fleece insulating layer. Eating a handful of freshly fallen snow will cool your core, resulting in hypothermia. 75 e Which of the following would be considered MRT required winter PPE? a) Helmet b) Gloves c) Sunscreen d) Hydration system e) Compass 76 e Which of these is NOT a terrain trap? a) A steep, narrow sided gully b) A cliff band c) A crevasse d) A short steep slope above a body of water e) A flat run-out below an obvious avalanche track 77 a You are on a night winter search. Air temp: 28 F, Wind: 20 mph. Your team decides to rest until dawn. You unroll your foam pad and place it under your sleeping bag. The foam pad protects you from heat loss via which mechanism? a) Conduction b) Convection c) Radiation d) Evaporation e) Respiration 78 d You are on a search roped up in a team of three. The climber in front of you disappears in a crevasse. What is the first action you take a) Communicate with the fallen climber b) Devise a plan c) Secure a anchor system d) Stop the Fall e) Radio for help 79 c You are rescuing a climber who has fallen into a crevasse, the edge of the crevasse is 90 degrees. The load on the rope the climber is on is 1kn. What is the force on the edge where the rope is going over the edge of the crevasse. a) 0.7 kn b) 1.0 kn c) 1.4 kn d) 2.0 kn e) 2.4 kn 80 e You are setting up a rescue system in the snow, your ropes are cold and wet, what would be the minimum strength reduction you would subtract from the strength of the rope for a knot a) 30% b) 15% c) 50% d) 20% e) 25% 81 d While using a hip belay in snow the proper way to catch a fall is a) Lean straight back allowing the body to absorb the impact b) Lean straight back, allowing the force of the fall to drive the elbow of the braking arm into the snow c) Turn into the fall keeping the break arm elbow bent to prevent any damage to the elbow. d) Turn into the fall,pull break arm across body keeping elbow straight, otherwise breaking arm may be pulled into helpless position e) Turn away from fall, lean back using both hands on rope 82 a Which of the following is FALSE regarding the ice axe? a) Longer shafts provide better leverage in self arrest of a fall and are used on steeper slopes. b) The head of an aluminum or titanium ice axe should be made of steel alloy c) The ice axe leash can be short for attachment to the wrist, or long for attachment to the sit harness d) The spike is the metal tip at the bottom of the ice-axe shaft and should be sharp enough to readily penetrate snow and ice. e) The leash is attached to the ice axe shaft using a gigure-8 on a bight. 10

11 83 a Which aspect is most likely to develop persistent weaknesses and remain potentially hazardous in winter? a) Northerly b) Southerly c) Easterly d) Westerly e) All 84 c A crampon technique in the French style: to climb on high-angle ice with feet flat on the ice (as opposed to frontpointing). a) Off piste b) Rest step c) Pied à plat d) Vandi e) opus spicatum 85 e Which of the following is a FALSE statement? a) Once you have crossed an avalanche zone, get out to the way of any avalanche track/path, or runout zone into an area of safety. b) Snow on north facing slopes is more likely to slide in midwinter. c) South facing slopes are most dangerous in the spring and on sunny, warm days. d) Slopes above 60 degrees often do not build up significant quantities of snow because they are too steep. e) Slopes on the leeward side are generally more stable than windward slopes. 86 c When using a hip belay in the snow, the proper way to belay is: a) Place one hand on the other side of the body and take up the slack. Once slack has been removed place hand back to original position. b) Use one hand on the rope going to climber (feeling hand) the other hand on the opposite side of the Body (break hand). When feeling hand reaches the body let go with break hand and slide hand back to the body c) Use one hand on the rope going to climber the other hand on the opposite side of the body (break hand). When feeling hand reaches the body slide hand up past break hand, grab both ropes with feeling hand then slide break hand down to the body d) Use one hand on the rope going to climber (feeling hand) the other hand on the opposite side of the body (break hand). When feeling hand reaches the body simultaneously slide both break hand and feeling hand back to original position e) Use one hand on the rope going to climber (feeling hand) the other hand on the opposite side of the body (break hand). When feeling hand reaches the body slide break hand back to the body then slide feeling hand up 87 e A Nunatak could be used for a) Securing your pack b) A replacement for an ice ax c) Assisting in crossing a crevasse d) Etriers e) Navigating 88 b What is the body's most effective method of generating heat? a) Shivering b) Food metabolism c) Respiration d) Goose bumps e) Anabolic protein refill 89 e What best describes couloirs a) Shoulder b) Ridge c) Crevasse d) Snowfield e) Gullies 90 d Which of the following would NOT be considered MRT required winter PPE? a) Ski goggles or sunglasses b) Snow shovel c) Insulated boots or plastic mountaineering boots d) Dynamic rope for roped travel e) Insulated winter gloves 91 c Which types of slopes are more likely to be hazardous in spring, and at what time of the day? a) southerly, late night b) southerly, anytime c) southerly, late morning to night d) northerly, late morning to night e) northerly, late night 11

12 92 c You are traveling in snow on a 4 man rope team. You stumble and twist your ankle, the best remedy for this would be a) Take your boot off to allow for the swelling to occur b) Take your boot off wrap the ankle, put your boot back on c) Leave the boot on put a snow pack on the ankle to keep the swelling down d) Keep walking the constant weight on the ankle will stabilize it e) Leave the boot on, wrap your ankle to your crampons to support ankle 93 c Which is FALSE regarding a Snow Shovel? a) Uncovering an avalanche victim is an important use of the snow shovel. b) Snow shovels can be used in the construction of an emergency shelter. c) Snow shovels make an excellent platform for a campfire. d) Snow shovels can be used to perform a snow pack analysis test, such as the Shovel Shear Test. e) All SAR personnel are required to carry a snow shovel during winter operations and training. 94 c When using a hip belay in the snow, the proper way to belay is: a) Use both hands on the rope going to the climber, while taking slack out of the rope take one hand place on the other side of the body and take up the slack. Once slack has been removed place hand back to original position. b) Use both hands to keep slack out of rope. When feeling hand reaches the body let go with break hand and slide hand back to the body c) Use both hands to keep slack out of rope. When feeling hand reaches the body slide hand up past break hand, grab both ropes with feeling hand then slide break hand down to the body d) Use both hands to keep slack out of rope. When feeling hand reaches the body simultaneously slide both break hand and feeling hand back to original position e) Use both hands to keep slack out of rope. When feeling hand reaches the body slide break hand back to the body then slide feeling hand up 95 c To ascend or descend an avalanche slope: a) Use the center of the slope b) Traverse back and forth to make the climb easier c) Use the edge of the slope d) Don't ascend or descend the slope. Turn back. e) Ascend on edges, descend on the center 96 a What type of snow is prone to avalanches at lower slope angles? a) Wet b) Wind slab c) Soft d) Hard e) Dry 97 c Identify incorrect statements regarding elements of safe route selection. a) When selecting a safe route, avoid previously avalanched slopes and run-out zones. b) Previously avalanched slopes are identified by sparsely treed slopes, or broken off trees or limbs. c) Choose the most direct route that will get you to your objective, minimizing your exposure to an avalanche. d) Avoid leeward slopes where winds have deposited snow slabs. e) When selecting a safe route, select the least steep slopes that will get you to your objective. 98 e Route selection begins: a) When you approach the first non-flat terrain b) On the climb up c) When you begin to snowshoe or ski down d) At the trail head or parking lot e) At home 99 a Which statement regarding avalanche evaluation is FALSE? a) Wind can form cornices that overhang the windward side of a ridge. b) Depth hoar results from temperature differences between the ground and the snow surface. c) Cornices can break and fall triggering an avalanche. d) Temperature changes, especially the temperature differentials with the layers of the snowpack, affect the consolidation of the snowpack and can affect avalanche potential within a few hours. e) Wind can form cornices that overhang the lee side of a ridge. 100 d Which of these types of slopes are generally more hazardous and what indicates them? a) windward, cornices b) windward, hard surfaces c) windward, trees d) lee, cornices e) lee, hardpacked surface 12

13 True or False 101 F Route finding in snow becomes much easier when snow fall is heavy and covers obstacles such as rivers, moats and crevasses, making passage over them easier. 102 F A deadman anchor should never be used in combination with more than one anchor point 103 F A good rule of thumb when evaluating avalanche danger is the steeper the slope the greater the danger. 104 F A piolet is used when tying accessory equipment onto your pack. 105 F A running belay and fixed belay are constructed the same way. The difference is in the rate of speed the rope is feed to the climber 106 F After summiting Denali, you find an area with snow flutings, this would be a good area to glissade down. 107 F At the site of a suspected 'hit', the probe should be removed from the snow, marked with flagging tape, and probing resumed while team members, assigned to shovel, begin digging. 108 F Avalanche terrain characterized by a transition from convex to concave is likely to spontaneously fracture at the low point of the concave surface, due to the compressive stress of the snow. 109 F Because of the urgencies when setting up a rescue system in the snow a 5:1 SSSF is acceptable 110 F The best course of action if a climber falls in a crevasse is to slowly lower them to the bottom of the crevasse 111 F Best way to travel around a crevasse is follow the glacier moraine, a naturally formed basin around crevasse 112 F Convection is the transfer of heat from a warmer body to a colder body 113 F Due to wet cold frozen conditions of a snow rescue, mechanical advantage would double over the same rescue in warm conditions with no snow 114 F The echelon formation allows for team members to be perpendicular to each other and perpendicular to the crevasse 115 F The end person should tie into the rope for glacier travel using the figure-8 on a bight and one prusik sling 116 F Fracture lines frequently occur just above a concave area. Snow in a concave area is compressed and generally under considerable stress. 117 F Gor-Tex clothing can be expensive. An effective alternative to Gor-Tex is leather which is a time-proven waterproof insulator. 118 F Hiking in Seracs would be much easier than hiking in a glacier basin 119 F If a bergdchrund is encountered during travel it is best to rope up and jump over making sure you have a belay 120 F If the victim of an avalanche is known to have been wearing an avalanche beacon, use of a probe line in the absence of a beacon signal is a waste of resources. 121 F In a situation where the last climber in a roped team of three falls into a crevasse, the first person would hold self-arrest and the second person would build the anchors. 122 F In a snow rescue situation where rocks are available as anchors, cams should never be used due to the chance of freezing 123 F In order for a deadman anchor to be effective, it must be built with either snow pickets or ice axes 124 F In the situation where a climber is in a crevasse a mechanical advantage with an odd number (3:1, 5:1, etc) is the only option 125 F In the snow a hip belay is far superior than a mechanical belay. The weight of the body would absorb all the force of a fall and the friction from the rope would dissipate over the entire body 126 F In the winter it is acceptable to wear cotton as a under layer, it is warmer more comfortable than synthetics and is protected from moisture by the insulating layer. 127 F It is best to use down as an insulating layer, it is NOT affected by moisture and is extremely breathable 128 F It is more important to keep hands and arms covered than your head; you lose more heat from your hands and arms than your head. 13

14 129 F It is very unlikely that an avalanche can occur on a concave trigger point 130 F When in the field it is important to keep your Avalanche beacon off until needed in order to conserve batteries 131 F Most deaths from an avalanche occur as a result of hypothermia. 132 F Munter hitches should never be used in the snow. The combination of cold and moisture can cause increased friction on the belay device. Resulting in increased wear on the rope. 133 F Once a climber has fallen in a crevasse the lead climber must remove their coil of rope to assist with the rescue and detach from the main line in order to facilitate getting the rope to the fallen climber 134 F Snow pickets should only be used in a vertical position and best in fresh powder 135 F Snow provides a stable base so when belaying a climber a anchor is not needed as long as both feet are planted into the snow 136 F The formation of either depth hoar or surface hoar imposes an immediate avalanche danger, however, once covered by subsequent snowfall, the avalanche danger decreases. 137 F Time is of the essence in an avalanche burial. When a rescuer with a probe suspects the probe has hit the victim, that rescuer should immediately shovel the site to verify the 'hit'. 138 F Trigger points and waypoints are used in helping to navigate in mountaineering expeditions 139 F Two 8mm prusiks would be used by the middle person on a 8mm glacier rope tie-in 140 F Using the German technique for ice climbing works best with mountaineering boots that are not as stiff as a standard mountaineering boot 141 F Using the ice axe to self arrest, it is important to keep the axe away from your body to protect yourself from being injured. 142 F When a team of three are hiking along a crevasse it is best to always walk parallel to the crevasse. 143 F When a victim of an avalanche has been located with a probe, it is easiest and fastest to start digging from the point where the probe enters the snow 144 F When building a raising system in the snow because of the wet cold conditions a complex pulley system would be the best 145 F When evaluating snowpack it is best to have a strong layer over a weak layer 146 F When glacier traveling, the purpose of the end persons having a coil of extra rope is to allow additional climbers to tie in 147 F When grasping the ice axe to self belay it is best to grasp the shaft with both hands to help stabilize yourself and use the adze to stop your fall. 148 F When planning a winter mountaineering expedition it is good to print out a copy of an "Avalanche Advisory" a week or so before you go so you have it as a reference while on the trip. 149 F When route selecting, look for slopes within the 'safety zone', slopes of degrees; use a clinometer to identify them. 150 F When searching with avalanche beacons its best to use as few beacons as possible so transmissions from one receiver do NOT interfere with the others. 151 F When traveling on terrain where a belay will not be necessary, a kiwi coil is still needed to insure safety 152 F When traveling through avalanche terrain it is extremely important to be tied together in case a member of your group is caught in an avalanche, the rope can be used to locate the buried person 153 F When tying in as a middle person the best knot to use to tie into your harness is a inline figure F When you find yourself in the unfortunate position of having fallen into a crevasse, you should always try and lower yourself to the bottom so you can walk out 155 F Whenever possible you should travel on the leeward side of a slope 156 F While conducting an avalanche search the members who are NOT assigned to the beacon search should start probing in areas missed by the beacon search in order to expedite the search 14

15 157 F While crossing over a crevasse which has been bridged with snow, it is important to constantly probe the depth of the snow bridge to insure safety 158 F While ice climbing "piolet traction" is a resting position where the toe of the crampon is dug into the ice with one foot as the other foot rests 159 F While on a search your team is roped up in a group of four. You are crossing a avalanche prone area. It is important to stay roped together while crossing the avalanche zone. 160 F While walking with an ice axe, it should be in your hand with the spike facing to the rear and the adze uphill 161 F You are cold, shivering and feel you have become dehydrated. You have the choice of searching for dry wood to boil some water or eating snow. You know that the reason for NOT eating snow is due to the high levels of bacteria in snow. 162 F You are raising a climber who has fallen into a crevasse. You are using a 5:1 MA. It is snowing and freezing. The climber is not injured, The best method of getting the climber over the edge would be the pick and pivot method 163 F When glissading while wearing crampons you have the advantage of using your heel points to control your speed, often making self-arrest with the ice axe unnecessary. 164 F In a fall, in order to prevent injury, the ice axe should be thrown clear of the climber 165 T A convex slope will trigger more readily than a concave slope 166 T A glacier travels faster in the summer, anywhere from 150 to 1300 feet per year 167 T A good way of detecting crevasses is using pictures and guide books in the planning stages before you leave 168 T A sit harness is considered required winter PPE. 169 T A snow bollard can be used in fresh powder 170 T Always wear a chest harness when glacier traveling 171 T An aperture belay device is just as affective in the snow as self locking belay devices are. 172 T An example of a good outer layer is a Gor-Tex parka with a hood. 173 T An ice axe can be used as edge protection to prevent a rope from cutting into the snow where it goes over the edge. 174 T An unprotected head and neck may lose up to 50% of the total heat produced by the body at 40 F, and up to 75% at 10 F. 175 T As rescuers we can passively rewarm a hypothermia patient by removing wet clothing, and covering or placing the patient in a sleeping bag. 176 T In spite of the urgency when setting up a rescue system in the snow a 10:1 SSSF must be maintained. 177 T Bivouacking next to a buttress would be a good place to be protected from the wind 178 T The boot-ax belay and carabineer-ice ax belay provide the same level of security, but the carabineer-ice ax belay allows easier rope handling 179 T Develop "avalanche eyeballs" by continually evaluating avalanche danger and its potential consequences. 180 T An erratic could be used for a bomb-proof anchor point 181 T For an avalanche danger to exist, three conditions must be met. 1) Unstable snow, 2) Avalanche terrain, 3) People, equipment, and facilities impacted 182 T Clothing should be of a color visible to search planes and helicopters. 183 T Heat is lost from the body due to conduction when we are in direct contact with water or cold surfaces. 184 T Radiation heat loss from the human body occurs primarily due to infrared emission. Radiative heat loss occurs primarily on cold, clear nights, and is readily noticeable after sunset. 185 T Ice axe shafts are made of aluminum or a composite material and are centimeters in length. 186 T If any of several existing stresses overcome the strength of the snowpack, an avalanche is possible. 15

16 187 T If in a snow rescue situation and a load release hitch needed to be constructed a 7/16" rope could be used 188 T A 7/16" dynamic rope has a strength of 22 kn where a 7/16" static rope has a strength of 29 kn 189 T In a Layering System, air warmed by the body is trapped within the fiber material, as well as between the clothing layers. 190 T Insulated bib pants or winter ski pants that are considered waterproof, must also be rated as breathable. 191 T Observe the stability of surface snow conditions such as slabbing and cracking. 192 T Proper maintenance of a rope includes drying the rope after each use. 193 T Select footwear with stiffeners added in the shank, toe, and heel for use with crampons 194 T Ski poles or trekking poles are mandatory when using either snowshoes or backcountry skis in a winter operation. 195 T Slope angle is one of the three main terrain factors that affect avalanche danger. 196 T Snow shovels can serve as a climbing tool. 197 T Snowshoes or Backcountry Skis are the preferred method of travel when searching in the backcountry. 198 T Staying perpendicular to crevasses will eliminate a pendulum motion if a team mate falls into a crevasse 199 T If you have an anchor, you should position your body so that the anchor will be on the side opposite the break hand, when using a hip belay in snow 200 T The bonding ability of the snow crystals affects consolidation of the snowpack. 201 T The main difference between a static rope and dynamic rope is that the dynamic rope will strench approximitly 10-12% under an impact force where a static rope will only stretch approximitly 2-3% under the same impact force. 202 T The major factors that influence the metamorphism deep in the snowpack are air temperature and snowpack depth 203 T The most important considerations for footwear to be used in the alpine environment should be proper fit, adequate insulation and intended use. 204 T The orientation of the slope to wind is one of the three main terrain factors that affect avalanche danger. 205 T The pick of an ice axe is designed with a hooking angle (relative to the shaft) to enable the axe to dig into snow or ice to self arrest after a fall. 206 T The three classic and easily recognizable features of an avalanche path are the start zone, track and run out zone 207 T To convert a 3 point dead man snow anchor from a load sharing to a load distributing anchor you would combine all legs together and tie them into a figure eight knot. 208 T To minimize the amount of radiated heat you lose to your environment make sure all exposed areas of your skin are covered. This includes the head, face, neck, and hands. 209 T Using a hip belay in the snow, friction from the rope could cause burns or damage to clothing 210 T When engaging in a snow rescue a large natural anchor such as a large tree or large boulder would be an alternative to a snow anchor 211 T When roped together for traveling a 7mm prusik could be used on a 7/16" rope 212 T When roping up for glacier travel in the middle position a prusik sling should be tied into the rope above and below your tie in point 213 T When selecting a safe route windward slopes are preferred as they tend to be more stable. 214 T When transporting a subject over the snow a SKED would be more efficient than a titanium litter 215 T When traveling roped together a dynamic rope is superior to a static rope. 216 T When using the avalanche beacon and you are within a meter or two of the victim you should place your beacon close to the ground, using the bracketing method, while moving slowly to get a more accurate reading of the location of the victim. 16