The American Mountain Guides Association. Climbing Wall Instructors Technical Manual

Transcription

1 The American Mountain Guides Association Climbing Wall Instructors Technical Manual The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) mission is to inspire and support a culture of American mountain craft.

2 For over 25 years, the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) has been dedicated to supporting the mountain guiding and climbing instructor community through excellence in education, standards and certification, to enhance the quality of outdoor services provided to the public, while serving as a resource for accessing and protecting the natural environment. A national non-profit located in Boulder, Colorado, the AMGA is our nation s exclusive representative to the International Federation of Mountain Guides Association (IFMGA,) the international governing body responsible for guiding standards and education around the world. With members all across the country, AMGA represents an incredible variety of professionals, educators, outdoor enthusiasts, and environmental stewards. From the Alaska Range to the big walls of Yosemite, from the diverse climbing areas in the Rockies to the world-class ice and rock climbing of the East Coast, you will find AMGA-trained and certified guides and climbing instructors. Today the AMGA continues to develop its programs to meet changing standards and support the growing community of guides and climbing instructors in the United States. In addition, the organization s members have become a valuable and effective resource for land managers and outdoor industry leaders through our promotion of land stewardship, world-class training, and sustainable environmental practices The AMGA has developed a program to train and evaluate indoor climbing wall instructors. Upon successful completion of the course, the participants will receive the status of AMGA-Certified Climbing Wall Instructor. The course will be a minimum of twenty hours of instruction, skills demonstration, and evaluation. The course will address the technical skills necessary to manage an instructional program at an indoor / artificial climbing wall facility, and will address the following general topic areas: Instructor roles, responsibilities and professionalism Client orientation and instruction Risk management Lesson planning Teaching basic climbing skills, including movement Teaching lead climbing skills Teaching top-rope and lead belaying techniques Use of available equipment and facility Basic rescue and emergency procedures AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%&

3 About This Manual First edition This is the first edition of the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Climbing Wall Instructor Program. It is adapted from the American Mountain Guides Association Climbing Wall Instructor program and The Association of Canadian Mountain Guides CGI manual. Without their support, this manual would not have been possible. Feedback about this manual is welcome. Please feel free to send ideas, content, and corrections to: Ed Crothers, AMGA Climbing Instructor Program Director Joe Lentini, AMGA CWI Discipline Coordinator Acknowledgments Thanks to the following AMGA members who contributed to the editing of the AMGA version: Clint Lockes, John Bicknell,Alain Comeau, Ed Crothers,Andy Loue, Eric DeBurgh and Joe Lentini Thanks to the following ACMG members and gyms instructors who contributed advice: Brian Spear, primary writer for the ACMG John Haigh, Bruce Hendricks, Karl Klassen, Matt Lunny, Chris Miller, Fiona Pinnel, Greg Sadesky, Brian Spear, Colin Zacharias, Dwayne Congdon, Dan Poggi, Andrew Wilson. Copyright All copyrights for this document are held by American Mountain Guides Association. Purpose This manual was written to support the training and certification process for the American Mountain Guides Association Guides. Audience Candidates on climbing gym instructor courses. This manual was written to help candidates prepare for and complete the AMGA Climbing Wall Instructors certification course. AMGA Members: AMGA members may find this a helpful resource for conducting programs in the field. This manual will supplement their previous training and certification. Non-certified climbing gym instructors: Skilled climbing gym instructors and facility managers may find this resource helpful to enhance the risk management and overall quality of their programs. This manual is not a replacement for instructor training and certification. Experienced climbers: This material may be helpful to recreational climbers but is not designed for individuals who are learning to climb without the supervision of a trained professional. This manual assumes a level of knowledge of top rope climbing and lead climbing by the climber. Disclaimer Climbing is dangerous. Individuals using this manual do so at their own risk. The author of this manual, the American Mountain Guides Association Guides and its members, are not responsible for the application of this manual, or for any liability, loss, or injury that results from direct or indirect application of this manual. Use this manual at your own risk AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%'

4 "#$%&'(&)'*+%*+,& AMGA History... 6 AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Certification Program... 8 Certification Program Outline... 9 Rescue and Emergency Procedures Sample Course Format Chapter 1 Program Planning Lesson Plans Topic Plans Selecting Content Goals & Objectives Working with Youth Special Needs Climbers Team Teaching Chapter Two Teaching Skills Introductions Presenting information Presenting information, the Seven Intelligences Coaching Coaching, the five depths of learning Chapter 3 Risk Management Waivers Demonstrated Competence Levels of supervision Chapter 4 Equipment Floor Anchors ANCHORING LEAD-CLIMBING BELAYERS Chapter 5 Top-Rope Climbing Belaying in top-roping Demonstrated competence Some common issues in belaying Chapter 6 Lead Climbing Teaching lead Climbing Belaying skills Lead hazards Errors in leading AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%(

5 Table of Contents Risk management Demonstrated Competence Fall Forces CHAPTER 7 Teaching Movement Movement Balance Risk Management in Bouldering Chapter 8 Working in a Gym Gaining employment Risk management duties Bibliography AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%)

6 AMGA History For over 25 years, the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) has been dedicated to supporting the guiding community through excellence in education, standards and certification to enhance the quality of services provided to the public, while serving as a resource for accessing and protecting the natural environment. As a group the AMGA presents a strong, unified voice for high standards of the professionalism of guiding and climbing instruction in the United States. The AMGA is an organization grounded in powerful tradition that continues to evolve with the ever-changing arena of mountain guiding and climbing instruction. We offer a series of training courses and exams designed to certify guides and climbing instructors to the highly respected, internationally recognized standards of the AMGA. The AMGA is our nation s sole representative to the 21-member International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA,) the international governing body responsible for guiding standards and education around the world. The heart of the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) is its membership. Spread across the country, AMGA members represent an incredible variety of educators, outdoor enthusiasts, and environmental stewards. Just about every aspect of mountain guiding and instruction is represented through the AMGA s vast member base: from the glaciated high-altitude peaks of the Alaska Range to the big walls of Yosemite, from the diverse climbing areas in the Rockies to the world class ice and rock climbing of the East Coast you will most likely find AMGA trained and certified guides or climbing instructors. These professionals could work in any part of the industry from instructors who teach on climbing walls and single pitch cliffs to guides guiding long rock routes, alpine climbs, and ski mountaineering trips. As a collective group, the AMGA is closely connected to almost every issue that faces the industry and our treasured crags, peaks, powder covered slopes, and frozen waterfalls. Guiding in the mountains has been a profession in the U.S. that spans back to the start of the nation. Only in 1979 did a group of 12 guides decide that it was time to formalize an organization to represent the greater guiding community. As a result, the American Professional Mountain Guides Association was born. Over the next few years the P was dropped and the AMGA developed and grew throughout the United States. The organization sharpened its focus of supporting the guiding profession by providing representation for land use access, education, training, and examination based on international standards for guiding. In 1997, the AMGA achieved one of its most notable accomplishments with acceptance into the international federation of Mountain guides associations, IFMGA/UIAGM. As a member of the IFMGA, the organization s educational and certification programs meet the international standards recognized by more than 20 nations worldwide. Today, the AMGA continues to develop its programs to meet changing standards and support the growing community of guides and climbing instructors in the United States. In addition, the organization has become a resource for land managers and outdoor industry leaders by promoting land stewardship, world-class training, and sustainable practices to protect our natural resources. AMGA Mission Statement To inspire and support a culture of American mountain craft. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%*

7 AMGA Climbing Instructor Program The AMGA Climbing Instructor Program consists of two (2) certification streams, Climbing Wall Instructor and Single Pitch Instructor. The Climbing Instructor Program is intended for individuals who facilitate climbing experiences, instruct climbing skills, and/or monitor climbing activities. When individuals sign up to take part in the emotionally and physically demanding sport of climbing it is assumed that their instructors will provide an enjoyable experience while expertly managing the risks that are an inherent part of climbing and while also protecting the finite resource of our treasured top rope and single pitch crags. The AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor and Single Pitch Instructor Programs are designed to enable instructors to proficiently facilitate and instruct the sport of rock climbing. Both programs are for current, active rock climbers that have a real desire to teach rock climbing to novices in an indoor, single pitch or top rope setting. The target audiences of the Climbing Wall Instructor and Single Pitch Instructor Programs include but are not limited to: college outdoor recreation leaders, experiential education program instructors, wilderness therapy staff, camp directors, youth leaders, climbing school instructors, climbing gym staff, and recreational climbers looking to improve upon their technical climbing skills and risk management. AMGA Guide Program The Guide Program consists of three (3) certification streams, Alpine, Rock and Ski Mountaineering. By completing all three disciplines a guide achieves international recognition as an International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA/UIAGM) Guide. This achievement is the highest level of credential attainable by a professional mountain guide anywhere in the world and is recognized in the more than 20- member-countries of the IFMGA. There is no better way to grow as a professional than learning from certified guides with experience from around the world and from a group of your peers with diverse backgrounds. The AMGA strives to incorporate a wealth of knowledge accumulated and polished over decades of guiding experience into its Guide Program. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%+

8 AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Certification Program Introduction This twenty hour course will address the basic skills necessary to manage an instructional program at a climbing facility, and will address the following general topic areas: professionalism and the role of a climbing wall instructor; client orientation and instruction; teaching general climbing skills including movement; teaching top-rope and lead belaying techniques; equipment and facility use; and rescue and emergency procedures; risk management. Upon successful completion of the course the participants will receive an AMGA certification as a Climbing Wall Instructor (CWI.) At a minimum, training for candidates shall occur in each of the following technical competency areas. Candidates shall possess sufficient knowledge, demonstrate skills, and/or demonstrate teaching ability in each competency area (if appropriate to the topic) in order to successfully complete the course. Certification Program Goals: To increase the level of professionalism in indoor climbing in the USA; To improve the level of climbing wall instruction in the USA; To develop a more consistent standard of care for climbing instructors in the USA in the following areas: client orientation and instruction; teaching general climbing skills including movement; teaching proper belaying techniques; teaching proper leading techniques; teaching proper equipment care and use; proper facility use, care, and inspection; and rescue and emergency procedures; to evaluate the skills of climbing instructors in the USA; to provide guidance for further professional development. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%,

9 Movement Pre-requisites for Certification: Certification Program Outline 18 years of age (persons 16 to 18 may take the course and will receive a letter of completion of the course, if completed successfully.) At least one year documented personal climbing experience (a minimum of 20 outings climbing indoors and/or outdoors.) Prior teaching or have observed basic climbing courses are highly recommended. Climbing ability: 5.9 top rope and 5.8 lead for lead certification 5.7 top rope for non-lead certification, on artificial structures. Movement demonstrating calm, confidence, good position, balance, solid base of support, no falls, and general body awareness. Ability to demonstrate a controlled fall, both on a rope and bouldering. Equipment and Facility Care, Use, and Inspection Demonstrate the proper care, use and inspection of personal climbing equipment, including but not limited to: shoes, harness, belay devices, carabiners, rope, cordage, and slings. The candidate possesses adequate knowledge of routine facility inspection practices according to the manufacturer s instructions and employer s policies and procedures. Assess the physical condition and set-up of the climbing facility and take appropriate corrective actions based on this assessment. Belaying Skills Demonstrate proper use of a locking carabiner (or carabiners) for climber belay rope attachment. Tie and evaluate a Figure-eight knot for climber belay rope attachment. Proper set up of belay system using an assisted braking belay device (e.g. a GRIGRI, Cinch, and other assisted braking devices) and a tube or plate type belay device. Perform an effective top rope belay using an assisted braking belay device, and a tube or plate-type belay device, demonstrating proper: technique, position, control, and communication. Perform an effective lead belay using an assisted braking belay device and a tube or plate type belay device, demonstrating proper: technique, position, control, and communication. Criteria for effective belays (all criteria must be met); proper configuration and use of the belay device according to manufacturer s instructions; ability to properly feed rope through the device; maintaining the brake hand on the rope at all times; ability to break at all times; demonstrate an appropriate behavioral reaction to fall (i.e. the belayer must reflexively react to break a fall -- even if stressed, surprised, fearful, etc. Perform an effective self-belay. Orientation and Instruction AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%-

10 1. Ability to conduct a thorough patron orientation covering inherent risks of climbing, personal responsibility for managing those risk, and facility rules; 2. Ability to teach proper use of climbing equipment according to manufacturer s instructions: harness, locking carabiner, tube or plate type belay device, assisted braking type belay device; 3. Ability to teach proper use of an auto belay device; 4. Ability to teach basic movement skills; 5. Ability to teach tying a figure eight knot for climber belay rope attachment; 6. Ability to teach basic rope management skills; 7. Ability to teach proper belay skills and technique for top roped climbing; using an assisted braking belay device; using a tube or plate-type belay device; belaying directly from the ground anchor using an assisted braking belay device (not appropriate for all facilities); 8. Ability to teach proper belay skills and technique for lead climbing: using an assisted braking belay device; using a tube or plate-type belay device; 9. Ability to teach lead climbing lesson that includes, but is not limited to clipping, route-finding, and understanding the dynamics of lead climbing. Bouldering and Spotting 1. Ability to teach proper falling techniques. 2. Ability to teach proper spotting techniques, both stationary and moving. 3. Ability to select and use appropriate impact attenuating surfaces for bouldering. 4. Ability to conduct a thorough patron orientation to bouldering facility. Rescue and Emergency Procedures 1. Perform or provide for appropriate technical rescue in a timely manner. 2. Belay escape from tube belay device. 3. Attachment and ascend with assisted braking device. 4. Ability to activate facility emergency procedures if and when necessary. 5. Ability to record and report required factual information pertaining to emergencies. Sample Course Format AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%./

11 Course can also be done in two ten- hour days or any other configuration. First Night (four hours) Introductions Professionalism and the role of a climbing wall instructor Greeting One chance for that first impression Dress Modeling Cross-talk other climbers Gender issues Drugs and Alcohol Risk management theory; See Risk Management elimination reduction transfer, and retention Effective teaching and learning; See the Lesson Plan Objectives Standards Anticipatory set Guided practice/monitoring Closure Independent practice Assess pre-requisite skills 18 years of age At least one year of documented personal climbing experience (a minimum of 20 outings climbing indoors and/or outdoors.) Current first aid and CPR (a minimum of American Red Cross Basic 5.5 to 6.5 hours.) Review lesson plans and pre-assigned work. General overview of today s topics Day 1 (eight hours) Equipment Management: selection, care, use, inspection Is there a facility operations manual? Is there a log of inspection? It should include all of the above. Facility management: facility tour, facility care, routine facility/wall inspection AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%..

12 Is there a facility operations manual? Is there a log of inspection? It should include all of the above. Patron orientation and training Review, demonstration, and students teach: Basic movement skills Top rope climbing and belaying Auto belay device management Evaluation of student skills General overview of today s topics Rescue and emergency procedures Review, demonstration, and students teach: Bouldering and spotting Lead climbing lesson and belaying the leader Review, demonstration, and students practice: Day 2 (eight hours) Technical rescue (belay escape, snatch using an assisted braking type belay device (e.g. GRIGRI, Cinch, etc.) Evaluation of student skills Individual student interviews, review of report card Course feedback and evaluation by students. Required Equipment Equipment choice, quality and condition are areas in which you will be evaluated. Candidates should arrive with appropriate, professional-quality equipment, in good condition. UIAA/CE-approved Climbing Harness 3 or more UIAA/CE-approved locking carabiners 1 tube or plate type belay/rappel device (e.g. an ATC, Reverso, etc.) 1 assisted braking type belay/rappel device (e.g. a GRIGRi, Cinch, etc.) 2 24 nylon slings, or 2 prusik loops (3 to 4 ft of 6mm nylon accessory cord) 1 48 nylon sling Climbing shoes Chalk bag Notebook and pencil/pen AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%.&

13 Climbing Wall Instructor Program Technical Manual Chapter 1 Program Planning Overview: Effective instruction starts with effective planning. Consciously choosing what, how, when, and why to teach, will lead to a better student experience and increased business for the gym. Planning leads to performance Definition Program planning refers to multi-day programs where students return time after time to develop their skills over an extended time frame. Some examples might be: An academic climbing program A youth camp An adult skills course Content of a multi-day plan The multi-day program plan needs to: Fit into the overall needs of the facility Meet the needs of the participants based on their initial skill level and their rate of progress Have clear goals that drive the delivery of the program Have solid objectives that support those goals Be divided into individual lessons, each of which has a logical flow and progresses through the program or camp Connect teaching and practice time in an appropriate balance Practice and review time Multi-day programs introduce the issue of students forgetting material between classes. Some review time may be helpful. Another issue is that students may miss material because they missed a class. Instructors must be ready to handle the challenge of presenting new material and assisting students who missed earlier classes. Definition Lesson Plans Lesson plans are the main functional unit of instruction. Students arrive for a climbing class to learn a stand-alone skill set such as top-roping, advanced movement, or lead climbing. A lesson plan is needed to co-ordinate teaching all the skills that make up that skill set. The class may be one session in length or be part of a multi-class program (see previous.) Many climbing facilities have prepared lesson plans for classes they ask instructors to present. Instructors generally follow those lesson plans closely, making changes only to meet the needs of the group, and usually more in delivery than sequence or content. Experienced instructors may be asked or required to plan a lesson either because a lesson plan does not exist, or the gym owner wants to see growth or change in the course. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%.'

14 Contents A lesson plan needs to have a goal and supporting objectives designed to meet that goal. Each objective may be delivered in a short teaching session called a topic plan, see next page. The Lesson Plan: Closure Clearly states the overall goal and objectives that lead to that goal Begins with an introduction that gives the students an understanding of what they should be able to do by the end of the lesson. Complex multi-skill lessons benefit from a global demonstration. Sequences teaching topics in a logical progression Lists consistent language, themes, and transitions Closure means those actions or statements by an instructor that are designed to bring a lesson or presentation to an appropriate conclusion. A closure is used to help clients bring things together in their own minds, to make sense out of what has just been taught. Any questions? No. OK, let s move on is not closure. Closure is used: to cue students to the fact that they have arrived at an important point in the lesson or the end of a lesson, to help organize clients learning, to help form a coherent picture, to consolidate, eliminate confusion and frustration, etc., To reinforce the major points to be learned...to help establish the network of thought relationships that provide a number of possibilities for cues for retrieval. Closure is the act of reviewing and clarifying the key points of a lesson, tying them together into a coherent whole, and ensuring their utility in application by securing them in the client s conceptual network. Independent practice Once clients have mastered the content or skill, it is time to provide for reinforcement practice. It is provided on a repeating schedule so that the learning is not forgotten. It may be homework or group or individual work in class. It can be utilized as an element in a subsequent project. Failure to do this is a major cause for a student s failure to be able to apply new learning. For example, in a top-roping class, the longer the students can practice top-roping, the better the chances are of them passing the belay test. This is achieved by ensuring that early topics do not take too long, but still having adequate time and content. The lesson needs to end with a conclusion and an indication of what the students will and will not be able to do with the presented information. Definition Topic Plans A topic plan is a portion of a lesson. This is the primary teaching level and the level by which quality of instruction is most commonly judged. A topic is: A skill that does not stand alone, (i.e. putting on harnesses.) Often an objective of a larger lesson plan. Taught by an individual instructor or an instructor and assistant. Typically between a minute and twenty minutes in length. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%.(

15 Contents A topic requires: A topic goal and topic objectives. A list of key information that expands the objectives as much as the situation requires. An introduction, content, practice session, conclusion and a transition to the next topic. A plan to carry out properly. Typically, gyms provide lesson plans to cover a class, leaving the method of presentation of each topic up to the individual instructor. Level of detail: This level of instruction is highly flexible and subjective, depending on the group or individual student. Teaching the Figure-eight knot is a typical topic. What works for a class of eight graders might be inappropriate for a pair of adults The ability to adjust the topic plan if it does not meet needs is important, and a sign of a quality instructor. Caution: A common mistake with inexperienced instructors is to pack the presentation full of information. When this occurs, the key points often get buried and the students leave more confused than informed. Indoor instruction is fast-paced, but teaches the students only what they need to know, and only add peripheral information as questions arise, or as the students seem ready to receive it. Also, focus on hands-on activities rather than just listening. It is important that an instructor pay attention to their students verbal and non-verbal cues, always monitoring whether or not they are still present and focused. Skill-based courses Skill-based courses are: Focused on creating student independence. At any level of skill or student responsibility. Designed for complete skill sets. Selecting Content While no course teaches all of the skills and information of gym climbing in one session, each lesson should build on previous and subsequent lessons and experiences. It is also important that students can continue on to take a related but more advanced course with an AMGA guide in the mountain program with minimal changes in technique and philosophy. Content issues in skill-based courses occur when, for instructional reasons, habits, or laziness, instructors teach skills that are not common. For example, if one uses back-up belayers throughout their programs and cite it as the only acceptable way, the students will be stranded when they leave a course and go to a belay test. Also, if one course uses belay motions and belay signals for top-roping which are not transferable to lead-climbing, then the students will be confused when it comes time to start leading. Experience-based courses Experience-based courses are: Exclusively introductory, such as with bouldering or top-roping. More focused on experience than skills. Not designed for student independence. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%.)

16 A portion of the gym instructor s work tends to be with short programs that do not have skill-building as a goal. Unlike skillbased courses, the purpose of experience-based courses is to give a quick overview of some aspect(s) of climbing and leave the participants with a fun, successful experience so they can choose whether or not they wish to return for more instruction. These private bookings have limited time and, often, younger participants. Frequently, they employ approaches to climbing that are different from that of recreational climbers. For example: harnesses tend to be simpler, students might be tied in by a staff member (or clipped in with a locking carabiner) rather than learning the knot, and belay signals may be changed, reduced, or even eliminated in order to save time for climbing. When planning these courses, consider simplifying systems rather than using unorthodox techniques. This will help the students move smoothly into a skill-based course. (For more information on experience-based courses, see the section on teaching youth courses.) Goals Goals & Objectives The goal of a program, lesson, or topic is a brief statement of what the student should be able to do by the end of that teaching block. It is a general statement of expected competencies. Sample goals Objectives Program goal, CWI Top-Rope course: The candidates will be able to teach top-roped climbing and basic movement on artificial climbing structures. Lesson goal, skill-based course: The students will be able to return to the gym and successfully complete the belay test. Lesson goal, experience-based course: The students will have a positive climbing experience and be able to describe top-roped climbing systems. Topic Goal, harness (basic top-rope course): The students will be able to fit and use our harness and retain enough information to pass a belay test and/or intelligently purchase a harness of their own. Topic Goal, harness (school group): The students will get into their harness properly and efficiently. Objectives are the building blocks of the goals and are action statements that include elements of both quality and context. Sample objectives (Harness lesson for a skill-based course) The students will be able to: Fit the harness on their body, describing appropriate tightness and position of both the waist belt and the leg loops. Identify, use, and safety-check a three-pass buckle. Identify, use, and check a pre-threaded harness buckle. Identify both the belay loop and the tie-in points as secure, appropriate attachments. Identify both the gear loop and the back straps as insecure, inappropriate attachments. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%.*

17 Basic rules for progressions 1. Simple to complex. Choose tasks that are easier to learn, have clear concepts, and are less dangerous before teaching tasks that are more difficult to learn, have less clear concepts and have more serious consequences. e.g. Teach top-roped belaying before lead-climbing belaying. 2. Event sequencing. Before teaching a skill, ensure that other contributory skills have been taught and mastered to a point of competency, e.g. teach the harness before teaching the Figure-eight follow-through knot. 3. Common skills before rare skills. Teach what the students are likely to need before teaching what they will use less frequently, e.g. teach climbing on the inside edge or big toe to novices before showing outside edging. Teach belaying before teaching rappelling. Working with Youth Overview While most facilities staff are over the age of minors, gyms depend heavily on young climbers as both customers and students in programs. Challenges: Maturity Belaying Size Height: Children have reduced reach. Harnesses: Young children may not have the hip definition for sit harnesses. In such a case, a full body harness can be more secure. Anchoring/Friction: if children are belaying much heavier climbers, various techniques may be needed for example floor anchors to keep the child on the ground, additional wraps of the rope around a belay bar, or additional twists in the climbing rope to add friction. Waivers: Young children require parents or legal guardians to sign waivers. Other relatives or temporary child-care workers are not able to sign waivers. Attention Span: Young children may lack the attention span and/or comprehension of cause-and-effect to ensure proper belaying and lowering practices. Supervision: Excitement often overrides the judgment of young children. Young children (12 years old and under) may have their needs best met by having them tied in and belayed by an adult (parent or facility staff.) Children under age 13 can accomplish the skills of belaying but most require higher supervision. Facilities may limit belaying by these individuals during supervised programs. After age 14, most children can handle the responsibilities of belaying. Birthday parties This is a very common program not limited to young children. Gym staff should generally take full responsibility for harnessing, tying knots and belaying. This leads to quick, fun climbing experiences and better risk management, but requires a high degree of energy from the staff. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%.+

18 Experience-based courses Most facilities depend on these courses as a major stream of financial support. While they are often top-rope courses, they differ from traditional top-rope programs by: Group size. Experience-based courses may have as many as 30 children. This requires a more complex supervision pattern. Duration: Courses may be as short as an hour, compared to two hours or longer for most skills-based courses. Attention span: Children may be eager to climb and be lost when asked to attend to the finer details. Try to get them climbing within a half hour of arrival. Variance in ability: Some children in the group may have never climbed, while others may be much more experienced. Goals: Often, the program goal is to get children excited about climbing rather than them achieving independence. Children who wish to pursue climbing should be directed to more skills-based programs offered at the facility. To get youth groups climbing quickly. Set Tone. Explain, during the introduction, that by listening quietly and minimizing goofing off, they will get to climb sooner. Focus. Instruct key elements of each topic. Cut out non-essential details. Flow. Keep the class rolling along. Make sure every instructor is aware of their job and does it efficiently and consistently. Consider tying or clipping the students in for the first part of the lesson, teaching the knot in the middle of the class or in a later class. This leads to better belaying as the focus is on belaying, not knots. Overview Special Needs Climbers Climbing facilities are usually designed for fit, able-bodied climbers; they can also be used by more challenged individuals to meet their own goals. Obese climbers May not fit into the facilities harnesses. Extreme cases may require a body harness. May prefer vertical walls with larger holds. May require their belayers to be anchored. Blind climbers Require more coaching and supervision. Require a more quiet environment while climbing so that coaching can be effective (use their names) Will be challenged to check systems or notice developing hazards. Extra attention is needed if lowering off of complex terrain (quick draws ledges and overhangs.) Wheelchair bound climbers Can climb if they have appropriate upper body strength. Prefer slightly overhanging walls with good holds. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%.,

19 May require a body harness. May require foam padding to protect the legs. May require a helmet. May need to be belayed from a floor anchor. Can belay other climbers, usually from a floor anchor. Deaf climbers Focus on visual and kinesthetic demonstrations. Global demonstrations are very helpful. Require rope- tug signals rather than belay calls. May require laser pointers for movement coaching. (Caution:eye hazard) Team Teaching Skilled instructor teams deliver more than excellent content; they deliver a focused, consistent course where all elements intertwine to create a unified whole. Planned approach Although climbing gyms often have lesson plans in place for instructors to use, it is ultimately up to the team to determine how the lesson plans will be delivered. Things to consider: Consistency Roles: Will there be a lead instructor or will all be co-instructors? Themes and language:(see below) Who teaches what: How will the teaching roles be distributed/shared? Often one instructor will teach the first topic and the others will cycle through. Standards to maintain: i.e. back-up belayers, depth and breadth of instruction. The value of consistency is that the instruction team seems together. If all the instructors agree on what to do, then it must be the best way to go. This is done by: Develop concepts (or themes) that connect multiple topics or elements, and refer to them often (i.e. Buddy checks in systems, or efficiency in movement..) Climbing jargon is introduced as needed and is applied consistently.( i.e. if the first instructor calls something a carabiner, subsequent instructors do not refer to it as a snap link or even a biner.) Supportive team-teaching Effective co-instructors make each other look good. The students respect a professional team: If an observing instructor disagrees with what is being taught, they rarely interject (and do so politely as in another way to look at this is:.) It is best to wait until the speaker asks for input. For supportive team teaching: Invite other instructors to add material or a different perspective when wrapping up a topic.when coaching, support the method that was taught, and introduce alternate techniques only when needed.refer back to topics taught by other instructors; foreshadow what others will teach. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%.-

20 Chapter Two Teaching Skills Overview: Climbing gym instructors teach physical skills that involve risk management. It is essential that instructors develop their skills of presenting material and conducting practice sessions. Teaching with patterns is an effective way to ensure quality of delivery. Preparing to instruct Assess Student/Student needs. A professional instructor delivers a quality, modern program that meets the needs and expectations of the students (people in the class,) and whoever is paying the bill. Students come to a gym with expectations. They should either get what they expected, or be educated (gently) on more realistic expectations. Consider: Some programs (i.e. school groups) have a leader/organizer who has goals for the group that must be considered What are the goals of the students? Realistic? What are the capabilities of the group physically, developmentally, and cognitively? How do you accommodate different learning styles? Are fears or other anxieties holding back one or more students? How will you bring down the stress level so they can more comfortably learn? Plan the lesson Once you know the needs of the group: Identify the goal of the presentation. Outline objectives of the presentation. Plan delivery (A written topic or lesson plan is helpful for inexperienced instructors or new topics.) Coordinate with co-instructors. Create a learning environment While it is obvious that one cannot teach climbing without something to climb, it is still valuable to prepare your teaching environment in order to maximize learning. Consider: Terrain: Is it appropriate for a successful, well managed, and focused practice session? The more advanced the skill, the more important it is that you choose the correct terrain. Consider specific route setting for advanced programs. Flailing on a tight rope is NOT climbing Stage : Is your teaching area free from distracting clutter, activities, sights, and sounds? Are students watching you or the climbers in the background? Equipment: Do you have what you need on-hand or will you have to go looking for equipment? Are your equipment choices modern and effective? AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%&/

21 Introductions Purpose The introduction creates a context for learning. The learner needs to find out what they will learn, why they need to learn it, and how it connects to past experiences. The learner will then be ready to organize and assimilate the new information. Global Demonstrations Global demonstrations are effective to introduce complex, multi-skill tasks to students with very limited contexts for the experience. In a global demonstration, the students observe an individual or team of individuals doing the task that they are about to learn. For example, before a top-roping class, students would watch a pair of instructors top-rope a route and lower off. This would create a context for subsequent instruction in harnesses, knots, and belaying. A global demonstration: Shows a complex multi-skill task that the students will learn. Displays clear, confident, and effective skills. Minimizes talk or teaching to avoid interrupting the flow of the global demonstration. Relevant review Relevant review is useful for drawing out past experiences and showing the connection to the new skill at hand. For example, if teaching the belay tube to a group that has worked with GRIGRIs, point out the similar hand motions. Goals and objectives Stating the goals of the presentation, the objectives, and the purpose of the skill creates context and aids instruction. The students need to know what they will learn, and why they need to learn it. For example, before teaching the figure- eight knot, explain to the students that they are about to learn the most common knot in climbing and one that will keep them securely attached to the rope high off the ground Overview Presenting information Once the students have had the topic introduced to them, they are ready to have the material presented. This is the stage of the teaching process when the greatest volume of information is transferred from the instructor to the student. There are many ways to present material to a group of students. Typically the inputs are a mixture of audio, visual, and kinesthetic types of instruction. Audio Instruction Audio instruction refers to spoken instruction. It is one of the most common forms of presenting, as it is the easiest to present. For people skilled in listening or with experience in the topic presented, it is reasonably effective, but most learners need visual or kinesthetic input to anchor the learning. To be effective with audio instruction: Select a teaching area without competing noise. Carefully introduce new terms and language (i.e. this is a carabiner.) Speak slowly, clearly, and with a range of tones and volumes. Select and emphasize only key points in order to minimize chatter. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%&.

22 Ask students questions or have them repeat key points. Use humorous examples and stories to anchor key points, but be careful not to bury those points Visual Instruction Visual instruction refers to the actions and objects that students see. Generally, visual instruction is an effective teaching method, but most learners benefit from supporting visual with and /or kinesthetic inputs to anchor the learning. To be effective with visual instruction: Select a teaching area without competing scenes, lights, and motions. Ensure that all students can see the demonstration. Ensure that all students are paying attention. Direct students to watch important actions. (For example, while demonstrating belaying, have them watch your hands. While demonstrating footwork, have them watch your feet.) Keep demonstrations simple, slow, perfect and clear. Be cautious about demonstrating errors; on a subconscious level, students do what they see If demonstrating an error, CLEARLY correct it verbally & visually. Kinesthetic Instruction Kinesthetic instruction refers to what the learners physically do and experience. It is the backbone of practice sessions but it is often difficult to work into demonstrations. It is the effective style, especially when anchored by audio and visual inputs To be effective with kinesthetic instruction: Maximize your quality practice sessions. When possible, have the group mimic key actions. Describe how things feel when done properly. Presenting information, the Seven Intelligences Presenting information to students must be done in a way that the students are able to memorize, comprehend, and apply that information. Teaching using the auditory, visual and kinesthetic instruction is effective, especially for individuals who learn through those modes. Educational researcher Howard Gardner identified seven types of intelligence (see below.) While each form of intelligence is valid in its own right, and each individual has some skill in each types, our society tends to reward those with skills in linguistic and mathematical intelligence more frequently. The skilled instructor will attempt to reach all seven intelligences in a presentation. 1. Linguistic Individuals who are linguistically intelligent are effective with words they understand verbal instruction and are able to clearly express their thoughts and feelings through spoken language. Individuals with linguistic intelligence respond to: Spoken or written instructions. Opportunities to speak before the group. Mnemonics and checklists. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%&&

23 2. Mathematical logical #6789:#;%mathematically intelligent are effective with figures, facts and numbers - they understand complex cause/effect relationships and are able to clearly express principles and formula. Individuals with mathematic intelligence respond to: Facts. Numbers and formulas that compare and contrast. Cause and effect relationships. Quantifiable information. 3. Visual/spatial Individuals who are visually intelligent are effective with learning through watching they understand spatial relationships. Individuals with visual intelligence respond to: 4. Physical Clear demonstrations, especially ones with minimal talking. Colors and images. Seeing items and actions as they are named #6789:#;%<9=73>#66=31?%663$%1?#;%%@@%>?34%with learning by doing - they quickly develop muscle memory. Individuals with physical intelligence respond remove to: 5. Musical Practice and experimentation time. Being told how things will feel when done properly. Individuals who are musically intelligent are effective with learning through sound and rhythm they learn through music. Individuals with musical intelligence respond to: Rhythms in language. Rhyming instruction. Background music. 6. Interpersonal Individuals who are interpersonally intelligent are effective with learning through group activities they prefer to discuss and experiment as a group. Individuals with interpersonal intelligence respond to: Group problem-solving activities. Teamwork. Identifying roles and responsibilities. Time spent discussing with others. Teaching others. 7. Intrapersonal Individuals who are intrapersonal intelligent are effective with self-directed learning they prefer to reflect and find meaning. Individuals with intrapersonal intelligence respond to: AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%&'

24 Finding relevance in the activity. Quiet reflection time. Being challenged to find solutions to problems. Being given questions, not answers. Coaching Since we primarily teach physical skills, demonstrations only go so far in helping the students learn. Students need practice time, initially to anchor the learning, and subsequently to refine and develop the skill. Each practice session needs to be Effective, Relaxed, and Coached. Effective Effective practice means that the session needs to be set up for success. Just teaching a huge block of information and walking away saying go practice now is ineffective (and possibly dangerous) for beginners and rarely effective for advanced students with well-developed contexts. To set up an effective practice session: Frequency: Insert practice sessions frequently through the presentation. Relaxed Focus: Minimize the number of new things that students need to try out. Set the stage: Tell the students what they will practice, what they should look for/focus on, and how long the practice session will be. If it is critical that they get staff feedback, (e.g. first-time belayers,) indicate this. Wrap up and conclude: Check in to see if the practice was effective (e.g. What did you notice about weight shifts? or What was the most helpful thing you found? ) Initial practice sessions: Should be simple. Add complications (e.g.. belaying a fast climber) only during subsequent practices. When learners are fearful or stressed, learning slows or even stops. This is not to say that a frightened student should not be involved; they can do simple tasks and be effective (as thousands of terrified first time rapellers have proven.) The experience, however, is usually a blur for them. In order to actually learn the skills and be independent, they first need to calm down. To reduce stress: Ensure that they wish to do the task. If they feel trapped, their stress will skyrocket Coached Minimize both the perceived risk and the real risk in initial practice sessions. Transfer responsibility to the students as they gain confidence. If the real risk is low but their perceived risk is very high, then let them know that it is OK to be anxious. Stress may be compounded if they feel foolish. Be relaxed and friendly they will take emotional cues from you While learners, especially advanced ones, may be able to practice and self-evaluate, your feedback as the instructor is key during initial practice and highly valuable in subsequent practices. To be effective with coaching: Build some rapport with the students. Learn their names Observe before giving feedback. Be positive: congratulate them on what they are doing well. Frame their errors in a positive way. Assess carefully to find the source of the error - Are they frightened? Did they forget the information? Are they rushing the skill? Is the climber sabotaging the task by climbing faster than the belayer can keep up? AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%&(

25 Coaching, the five depths of learning It is not enough for an instructor to merely present skills; students must retain what is taught, to a depth of understanding that will allow them to accomplish tasks. 1. Memorization This is the shallowest level of learning in this stage, students learn words, facts, or ideas by rote and are able to repeat the material when asked. This is rarely a satisfactory level of learning for students and is often only a first step to deeper learning. Memorization applies to conceptual rather than physical skills. Examples of an effective use of memorization: Belaying (the brake hand.) An instructor uses memorization when he tells students that they must keep a brake hand on the rope at all times and asks them to repeat it back. The students hear this, memorized this, but may not truly understand this. Belay signals. The instructor calls out signals while her partner climbs, having the students repeat them as she does so. The students can memorize the signals while they are still trying to comprehend them. 2. Comprehension This is the second level of learning. At this point, students have learned by memorization and are developing cognitive understanding of the material. When asked, they can explain ideas or concepts. Examples of comprehension: Belaying (the brake hand.) An instructor uses comprehension when he shows the students the effect of letting go - rope runs easily. The students comprehend the importance of the brake hand in a more meaningful way than just memorization. Belay signals. During a second demonstration, the instructor has her students repeat the signals (memorization) and asks individuals why the signal is used, what it means, and what actions are required (the last three show comprehension.) 3. Application This is the third level of learning and the most common target depth for a lesson. Students are expected to apply what they have learned in the way that they have been taught. Examples of application: Belaying (the brake hand.) The instructor observes the students practicing belaying while keeping the brake hand on the rope. The students continue demonstrating their competence at this task through increased levels of responsibility (see demonstrated competence.) Belay signals. The students use belay signals while they climb. Coaching is required as students may still be memorizing or comprehending the signals. 4. Generalization This is the fourth level of learning and often beyond what is expected of students or even new climbing instructors. At this depth of learning individuals take the knowledge they have learned and can apply it to novel situations. The individual can recognize that a situation is new, identify the principles at play, and can create innovative solutions. Generalized knowledge is an important target for risk management. Train advanced students and new instructors to recognize hazards by principal rather than by reading off of a check list. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%&)

26 Examples of generalization: Belaying (the brake hand.) The individual figures out how to belay with a different belay system, for example, the Munter-hitch with its braking direction being forward. Belay signals. The individual creates a system of belay signals for deaf students or translates signals into another language. 5. Systemization This is the deepest depth of learning. Individuals at this level innovate and create entire systems of knowledge. They create new techniques and equipment. They open new sports. Conclusions Purpose The purpose of a conclusion is to wrap up the session or course. Conclusions are important but are often under-used. They serve to summarize and create a transition to the next topic. Summarize Summarizing is important to anchoring learning. In the preceding examples, the learners saw, heard and experienced a myriad of things. An effective introduction would have given them the context to notice the most important elements, and an effective summary would have reminded them to organize the experiences so they could be able to remember and replicate the key points. It is important to remind them how the information will help them in the future. Transition Transitioning to the next topic is valuable so they can ready themselves for more learning. If the next topic is related to the past one, mention which points will reappear. Turn the students over to the next instructor. Lesson or program end If the class is over (final wrap-up) then: Thank them for participating. Revisit the goals. Inform them of what they can and cannot do with their current skill level. Inform them of their current skill level. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%&*

27 Overview: Chapter 3 Risk Management Reducing the chance of injury or loss to both the student and to the facility is one of the most important roles of the climbing instructor. While risk can never be eliminated, it can be reduced. Legal Risk Management Climbing gym instructors manage many risks, one of which is the risk of the facility being sued in the aftermath of an incident or accident. Orientations, safety talks and waivers protect both the instructors and facility and by making participants aware of the risks, and they also serve as effective tools in accident prevention. Risk management is the process of doing everything you can to protect people, property, and assets from losses. Legal risk management refers to your role in protecting yourself and your facility from lawsuits should your regular risk management fail. The five most common complaints of a lawsuit against recreation service providers are: 1. Clients were not adequately warned of inherent dangers. 2. Clients did not receive proper instruction on skills or use of equipment. 3. Programs were held in the wrong place or at the wrong time. 4. Instructor used bad judgment in the conduct of the program. 5. After an accident, rescue was delayed, complicated, and subjected the injured to undue pain and suffering. Warn of inherent dangers Our first line of defense against this issue is an effective safety talk and pre-waiver briefing. Essentially we need to ensure that before participants engage in climbing activities, they know what risks they are facing. In addition to protecting the organization legally, a good safety talk prepares the participants to keep an eye on their own well-being and underlines the value of the skills the class or course are teaching It is crucial to give a thorough safety talk. Use an outline or video to maintain continuity and assure that all points have been covered. Elements of a safety talk Tell participants to listen and think, as responsibility is shared. Describe inherent dangers. Give proper instruction As climbing instructors, we need to ensure that participants are able to manage the skills we teach. Often that is the reason they signed up for our program To manage this element: Introduce the skill: what is the purpose of learning the skill? Introduce the equipment required. What are its limitations for this program? Teach the skill with both demonstrations and practice sessions. Ensure they understand their role in an emergency. Have the students demonstrate competence before taking on increased responsibility. Prepare time and place To manage this element: Ensure that the facility you are using is in good repair. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%&+

28 Choose terrain that will support your program. Ensure that background distractions do not compromise instruction or application. Check in on students learning state. Are they ready for this yet? Use good judgment Climbing is a complex activity. Putting students into climbing and belaying terrain always creates potential for an accident. Professional climbing instructors reduce risk substantially, but can never absolutely remove risk. To manage this element: Be conservative. Follow the risk management policies and guidelines of your gym. Treat and evacuate injured students smoothly and professionally. To manage this element: Use the plans established by your facility. Call an ambulance if there is any question of whether or not one is needed. Be aware of locations, phones, first aid supplies, and paperwork. Know policies and procedures for dealing with extreme injury or death. Furthermore: Do not make promises about speedy evacuation or recovery; you are doing the best that you can. Empathize but do not admit guilt. Make notes as soon as you can, including witness accounts. Purpose of Waivers Waivers A waiver is an important document that outlines the transfer of risk from the facility to the individual climber or student. Details about waivers and waiver design is beyond the scope of this book. However, in general, by signing a waiver, the individual: Recognizes that climbing has inherent hazards that may lead to personal injury or loss. Accepts responsibility for any personal injury or loss that may occur. Agrees to not take legal action against the facility or staff of the facility. Signing Waivers This is an important stage of the risk management process. The instructor of a course is often responsible to conduct a waiver signing in advance of a course, the procedures involved are many and varied. Follow the protocols of your facility. General principles of waiver signing: Keep your tone professional and polite. This may be the student s first impression of your level of professionalism. Do not discuss the language of the waiver or debate the effectiveness of waivers. They have to accept the conditions put forth in the waiver or seek professional counsel. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%&,

29 Students should be told: To read the waiver. To fill in all important information, especially name and contact information. To check or initial any boxes placed to indicate that a section has been read. To sign in the presence of a witness. Indicate whether gym policy is to have a staff member or non-staff member witness the waiver. Minors and Waivers Individuals under the age of majority (minors) may not sign their own waivers. Waivers for these individuals may have different wording and possibly even a different title such as Informed consent form or Acknowledgement of risk. Signing authority for minors can be: A parent. A legal guardian appointed by the courts. Signing Authority cannot be: Other relatives including brothers, sisters, even grandparents unless they are also appointed by the courts. Friends or neighbors School teachers or youth leaders. Definition Demonstrated Competence In climbing programs, the well-being of one student is eventually entrusted to the skills of another. Demonstrated competence is the principle and process for doing this consciously. Before we give a student responsibility they should demonstrate that they are capable of handling that responsibility. Demonstrated competence is for: Planning Spotting. Belaying top-rope climbers. Lead-climbing belays. Clipping quick draws. What should a student be able to do before managing a risky situation? Understand the responsibility they are undertaking. Have a functioning level of the basic skills. Know their role in an emergency. Have practiced skills in steps of incremental challenge. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%&-

30 Sequencing While sometimes a student can demonstrate competence in one step (i.e. they set up and belay while an instructor watches,) for most students the same skill will require a detailed break-down of the skill into very small incremental steps. Consider: The previous experience the student has in an activity. The age of the student. The quality of the instruction leading to the practice session. The cognitive/emotional state of the student. Break down the skill to the minimum that you are confident the student can handle, and then build up in measured steps. Re-assess constantly. Should it be sped up? Slowed down? Backed up? System Checks Indoor climbing relies on the proper set-up of many systems, especially tie-ins and belay systems. Initially, the instructor is responsible for the set-up of all systems. On multi-session courses, the students may take on more responsibility. Having an instructor check done is a shared responsibility. The students need to call an instructor over. Systematic checks: Good habits are created by doing each check the same way every time. There are two types of habitual checks: Mnemonics such as H.A.D. (for Harness, Anchor, and Device ) work to serve as a reminder. This works to manage complex systems more effectively than simple systems. Linear Checks that start in one place and work along (i.e. harness buckles, waist belt, tie in points, eight knot, etc.) work better for the simple systems of climbing. Often these checks begin with the harness and work outwards. Pre-climb checks (Three, in order): 1) Self-Check. 2) Partner Check. 3) Instructor Check. Levels of supervision While novices require constant close vigilance, more advanced students may have a lower level of supervision. In deciding on an appropriate level of supervision, consider; Policies of the climbing facility or program. Is student independence a program goal? Do the students have the maturity and ability to handle such responsibility? Have the students clearly demonstrated competence over time? AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%'/

31 Team supervision While the number of ropes an instructor can supervise varies, it has been found useful for each individual instructor to take responsibility for certain rope teams Supervision ratios There is no formula for how many rope teams an instructor can supervise as the number is based on a multitude of factors. Two to four ropes are a general guideline. If the instructor feels overwhelmed, they must keep some teams on the ground while they supervise to their level of comfort. Older students. Students are skilled belayers. Students have GRIGRIs. Instructor is experienced. Can watch fewer ropes. Younger students. Students are new belayers. Students have belay tubes. Instructor is inexperienced. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%'.

32 Overview: Chapter 4 Equipment Climbing equipment are the tools of the trade for indoor instructors. Faced by a range of options, the instructor needs to be able to choose equipment that will meet the needs of the student. All equipment should be used with knowledge of the manufacturer s use recommendations. Overview To select and use harnesses, the climbing gym instructor needs to know: Types of harnesses; Parts of the harness; and Risk management considerations. On completion of a harness lesson, the students should (when appropriate) know: The standards for the harness (tightness, fit, position.) How the buckles are made secure. Where to tie in and where to clip belay carabiners. Insecure parts of the harness (gear loop and butt straps.) If the harness is simplified for instructional reasons. Types of harnesses Sit Harnesses: Commercially manufactured sit harnesses are the primary style used in a climbing gym. They are in common use based on their combination of comfort, security, and function. Many gyms have two basic harness types on hand: a harness for skill-based courses, and a simpler harness for experience-based courses. To choose: Skill-based courses: Choose harnesses that reflect the majority of harnesses in use in the real world and that require standard skills (and buckles.) Experience-based courses: Select harnesses that are simple and easy to use. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%'&

33 Body Harnesses Body harnesses are not in common use for indoor climbing as they are difficult to use (the belay attachment is too high) and uncomfortable (the face is drawn too close to the wall during falls and lowering.) The body harness is valuable for people with high centers of gravity and who lack the hip definition needed for sit harnesses. This group includes very small children, pregnant women, and the obese. Improvised or modified harnesses. These harnesses are not in modern indoor climbing practice but may be needed to provide extra harnesses or for extreme body sizes. This is a decision to be made by the gym and the gym must train its staff accordingly. Parts of climbing harnesses Tie-in points: The modern standard for harnesses is to have two tie-in Points: one for the leg loops and one for the waist. Harnesses with single (typically horizontal) combined tie in/belay points are effective for experience-based courses, but do not represent common use, and so are not recommended for skills-based courses. Belay/Rappel loops: (hereafter called belay loops) Join the leg loops and waist belt. They are modern and recommended for skill-based courses. Harnesses without vertical belay loops are more difficult to use for the recommended AMGA belay technique. Clipping a carabiner through the tie-in points to belay or rappel is not a modern application, and according to PETZL, is inappropriate for use with a GRIGRI. Buckles: Buckles hold together the harness and are typically of either the three-pass design or pre-threaded (i.e. PETZL) design. Consider using the pre-threaded on harnesses for experience courses and three-pass buckles on skills courses where students will need to be able to recognize, use, and check this commonly-used system. Gear loops: They provide storage for gear. On experience-based courses they are rarely of value. If the harness has gear loops, the students should be warned that the loops are too weak for belaying or anchoring. Risk Management considerations Students/student s personal harnesses: Students and other gym students may bring their own harnesses. This is acceptable based on the instructor s decision regarding: Wear and tear (thread damage and fading.) Harness design and function for the activity. Commercial design. (Homemade harnesses are not permitted in most facilities.) Checking harnesses The level of supervision is based on the ability level of the student. On introductory courses, the instructor is responsible for determining whether the harness is being used properly during each climb. For large groups, an initial mass harness check after the teaching of the harness may be valuable. Large groups There are two ways to check large groups without missing anyone; Have the group stand, then tell each student to sit down only after their harness has been checked. Have the group move past a control point where an instructor checks harnesses. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%''

34 Tying In The figure-eight follow-through: This tie-in is in common use as it is strong, secure, and easy to recognize. It generally is taught on all skills courses so students can use it and can check their climbing partners. The features of a good figure-eight, or eight, are: Tied in to the tie-in point(s.) Knot is tied close to the harness. Looks like an eight. Five parallel lines of rope. Knot is tidy and tight, no twists or air spaces. 5 to 8 inches of extra tail to the knot. Alternatively: fist and a thumb or two fists of tail. The tie-off or back-up knot of a single or double barrel (fisherman s) knot is not a required feature as the figure-eight is stable and secure. Individual gyms, at their discretion, may require it. When teaching the figureeight, consider doing a global demonstration before working through the steps. One of the big challenges is tying the starter knot. Have a primary method and several alternates for students who are unable to learn your primary methods. Clipping into a figure-eight-on-a- bight The figure-eight-on-a-bight type of tie-in is not in common indoor use and not the preferred technique. It is infrequently taught except to save time on very short experience-based courses. Use of this tie-in is to be decided on a gym by gym basis. Ensure that students realize that it is a shortcut and not the normal method. Alternate tie-ins (e.g. Bowline, water knot, Yosemite-finish eight) These tie-ins are not in common indoor use and should not be taught initially on skill-based courses. Students need to be able to recognize and use the standard figure-eight follow-through. These tie-ins may, however, be used on a case-bycase basis by instructors trained in them to their facility s satisfaction when a specific goals is to be met. Figure 4.2: The figure-eight follow-through is the most common tie-in used for indoor and outdoor climbing. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%'(

35 The GRIGRI This belay device is in common use indoors. Advantages: Tends to capture the brake strand if the belayer lets go (but still requires a brake hand.) Easy to hold the weight of a resting climber. Adds security to young belayers or belayers lighter than their climber. Aids in the supervision of large groups. May reduce the chance of a belayer losing control of the climber. Disadvantages: Difficult to transfer use into belaying lead-climbers. May lead to sloppy belaying. Many recreational climbers prefer the belay tube. Lowering mechanism can be difficult to master, particularly for beginners. The Belay/Rappel Tube These belay devices are in common use indoors. Advantages: Translates easily into lead belaying or rappelling. Inexpensive (a tool the students are likely to buy post-course.) Students kinesthetically feel the holding power. Disadvantages: Belayer must hold the brake strand to hold the fall. Belay plates (rather than tubes) provide uneven/jerky belaying and lowering. The Munter Hitch This belay system is not common in indoor use. Advantages include Very inexpensive/ requires little gear. Very good holding power. Disadvantages: Twists the ropes. Requires an opposite braking direction Very confusing Inappropriate for rappelling. More difficult to reverse rope travel direction. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%')

36 Other There are many belay devices that do not fit into the above, including figure-eight devices (used either in rappel or sport mode.) They are not commonly used indoors and are generally taught only after more common systems have been learned. Purpose Floor Anchors Anchoring the belayer is occasionally done in top-rope climbing to secure a belayer who is less than two-thirds the weight of their climber. Method: Typically a sling or daisy chain is girth-hitched from the floor anchor. This is clipped to the belay loop of the belayer s harness with a locking carabiner. The belayer is careful not to straddle the anchor sling. Generally, avoid belaying directly off the floor anchor independent of the belayer s harness. Choosing to anchor: There are advantages and disadvantages to anchoring a belayer. The advantages: Novice belayers will not be thrown around, which could increase the chance of losing control of the climber. Belay teams can be selected independent of individual weights. Climbers can be educated on proper anchoring. Control over where the belayer stands. The disadvantages: It is often not required. Done improperly (including belayer out of direct anchor belayer climber) it can lead to false confidence and the belayer being thrown off-balance. It can create a psychological dependence on anchoring that will be detrimental when switching to lead belaying. The belayer will be unable to move to keep the rope off the climber. Many gyms have too few anchor points. Many modern gyms do not have floor anchors. Instead other methods are used to increase belay friction/ belayer weight. The alternatives: Team the students by weight (a climber can be belayed by someone 2/3 their weight.) Position belayers close to the wall for vertical routes (with one foot braced against the wall.) Position belayers beneath the anchor for overhanging routes. Consider using GRIGRIs or back-up belayers for the first round or two until the belayer is used to being lifted. If using a belay bar, an additional wrap can be added to increase friction. Wrapping the belay strand around the climbing strand of the rope can also increase friction; more wraps, more friction. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%'*

37 ANCHORING LEAD-CLIMBING BELAYERS One of the most important ways that force is absorbed in a lead-climbing fall is by lifting the belayer. When this occurs, the belayer only needs enough holding power with the belay device to clamp their body weight to the rope. Unanchored belayer: With the GRIGRI, the belayer may be lifted, resulting in a dynamic absorption of forces and a more elliptical (desirable) fall arc. With the belay tube, the results are slightly improved from the above due to slight rope slippage. This is typically less than 2 inches and rarely results in rope burns. Anchored belayer : Rock Shoes If the belayer is anchored, then the fall is not stopped by the counterbalance of the belayer s weight but rather the belayer s ability to resist the rope s passage through the device. With the belay tube, the rope may slide through until the fall forces are below 400lbs, the average holding power of the belay tube. This could be greater than 8 inches and will result in slight dynamics and a more elliptical fall, but also introduces the potential for rope burns on the belayer s hands. Gloves are recommended. Shoes specifically designed for rock climbing make climbing easier and more enjoyable. They are recommended for all skill-based courses, especially those with a movement component. Fitting It is recommended that students wear socks with rental rock shoes to reduce the chance of infection. Rock shoes should fit snugly with minimal chance of the foot sliding in the shoe. Rock shoes for programs should not be fitted to a painfully tight fit as students rarely benefit from that security and could negatively affect the student s experience AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%'+

38 Overview: Chapter 5 Top-Rope Climbing The most common instructional program in climbing gyms is the top-rope course. Top rope courses can either be skillbased, or experience-based, but in both cases the techniques will be similar. Overview Belaying in top-roping Top-rope belaying is one of the most important elements in an introductory course. While many climbers have belayed successfully for years in the traditional style (where both brake and guide hands meet in the non-brake position and pinch before sliding the brake hand back,) the recommended technique shown below has been found more effective for belaying with the belay tube or GRIGRI because: Stage 1 It is easier to teach and learn. The brake hand is in the brake position for most of the motion. It translates easily into lead belaying. These patterns work well for GRIGRIs, belay tubes, and belay plates. However, they do not work as effectively for Munter Hitches, body belays, or any belay where the direction of braking is forward. Starting Position: The brake hand holds the rope in the brake position, 1 to 3 inches below the device with the palm of the brake hand facing down. The non-brake hand hand is at eye level. Stage 2 Brake hand pulls up as non-brake hand pulls down. Do not linger in this non-braking position. Proceed immediately to: Stage 3 Brake hand arcs down to brake position, in the mid-line. Do not linger in this position. Proceed to: Stage 4 With the non-brake hand, pinch the rope below the brake hand to stabilize the rope. (Variation: Pinch the brake strand just below the device.) Stage 5 Slide the brake hand to within 2 inches of the device. Do not release the brake hand. Stage 6 Return to stage 1. Repeat process as appropriate. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%',

39 Figure 5.1 GriGri Belaying Sequence Figure 5.2 Tube Belaying Sequence Figure 5.3 Tope Rope Belaying Sequence AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%'-

40 Belay Signals Standardized communication is valuable for managing risk and enjoyment. The rapid changes and emerging specialization in climbing have resulted in numerous different systems of signals in different facilities. Despite the relatively simple needs for communication in the gym, it is advantageous to use communication that will transfer to outdoor sport climbing and multi-pitch climbing. A suggested list for indoor belay signals is below. It is appropriate for both skill-based and experience-based courses, and, with the addition of a few extra signals, would be appropriate for outdoors. Of course, if a climbing gym has preferred signals that deviate from this list, the local list prevails. Recommended communication The Belayer The Climber Meaning On belay System is set-up, Climber may begin climbing Climbing Climber is climbing, either from the ground or from a resting position on the route. Climb On Belayer acknowledges climber s command. Up Rope Slack Falling Take Climber has loose rope to be brought up by the belayer. Climber wants a more loose rope. Climber is falling. Climber wants the rope tight so they can lower or rest. Got Belayer has the rope tight. Climber may sit. Lower Climber chooses to lower. Off Belay Climber is on the ground and may be taken off belay. On shorter courses that do not have a goal of student independence. (A.K.A experience-based courses) the calls above may be more than what is necessary. Consider simplifying the above by deleting extraneous calls rather than changing the words. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%(/

41 Demonstrated competence The belay test Most facilities require new students to pass a belay test before climbing independently in the gym. This is similar to a drivers license test in that the belayer has demonstrated competency and effective techniques. Subsequently, gym staff are the traffic cops who educate and correct mistakes. While the standards for acceptable belaying vary from gym to gym, the procedures for testing as described below have been found to be effective. The first-time climbing team This is an important supervision element as the belayer may not have previous experience in this situation. It is strongly recommended that the following pattern be used for novice climbers and is an option for belay-testing more experienced ones. 1) Set the stage for success: Observe the belayer moving rope through the device without a climber on the rope. Hold light tension on the rope to create an authentic feel and motion. Ensure the belayer understands his role in belaying and catching falls. Warn the climber to climb slowly so the belayer will not be frustrated. 2) The first climb: Provide a general safety check by staff to ensure both belayer and climber are set up properly. Consider having the climber only climb to bouldering height before lowering. This reduces stress and the consequences of error, and allows for easier communication. Consider using a back-up belayer for the lowering (or the preceding belay.) This is valuable for young kids, large weight differences between climber and belayer, anxious belayers, or just peace of mind. Back-ups may be used, taken away, or reinstated as needed. Remember that back-up belays are not in common use. If the program s goal is student independence, then the belayers must eventually demonstrate competence independently, apart from a back-up belay scenario. 3) The second climb: Consider practice catching falls (both planned and surprise.) If they have demonstrated competence to your satisfaction, the level of supervision may be reduced. 4) Subsequent climbs Watch belayers for deterioration of skills, especially later in the class as students get tired or overconfident. Belay-test Challenges Not all climbing teams will pass through demonstrated competence smoothly. Some teams will require more focused attention in order to build skills and/or confidence. Remember that challenges may be apparent at the beginning or appear later in the program. If focused attention is required, alert other instructors so that they can cover your supervision duties during your focused intervention. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%(.

42 Some common issues in belaying Frightened climber May climb erratically, if at all. Partner will not be able to practice belaying smoothly. Actions: Calm climber down ensure they feel control over the choice to climb. Consider switching the groups so the belayer can practice belaying/lowering. Frightened belayer May freeze or make errors while belaying. Actions: Attempt to calm the climber. More ground practice could be a help. Instructor proximity and calm coaching may help. Consider switching pairs so the climber can practice climbing/lowering with someone who is more comfortable. Frightened climber-refusing to lower This is common with young children, not unheard of for first time adults.) Actions: Having climber demonstrate willingness to lower from bouldering height often prevents problem from developing. Be trained in some form of counter-ascension/counter-balance lower to bring the climber back to the ground. Fast climber with a slow belayer Experienced climber/novice belayer or short-armed belayer, long-legged climber A rushed belayer will make mistakes. Actions: Slow the climber down. Ensure the climber does not create a dangerous amount of slack in the system. Weight differences Throwing the belayer around may result in decreased confidence and competence. Actions: Carefully position a lighter belayer close to the wall (but outside of impact zone.) Anchoring may be helpful. A GRIGRI adds to comfort in this situation. Increase friction in the system through various methods (wrapping belay bars or climbing stands.) Experienced climber May have experience belaying with different devices or techniques. May have a closed mind to new techniques or be offended that their system is unacceptable. Actions: Acknowledge their experience, even if it appears to be less than they realize. Use good judgment, in some cases the practice is acceptable even if not optimal, knowing when to insist on a new technique is important. When needed, calmly indicate how standards have changed and that the gym has specific protocols. Ask them to try the gym s approaches with an open mind. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%(&

43 Auto-belay Top-Roping Auto-belay systems have become common and very popular in North American gyms. These are units where a climber clips into some form of rope or cable coming from the device. As the climber ascends, the rope pulls into the device automatically. When the climber falls or chooses to lower, the device lets out the rope in a slow and controlled descent. Similar devices have long been in use in the construction industry, their adoption in the climbing wall community is a more recent phenomenon. While the leading manufacturer has recently left the climbing wall market (and recalled all units,) a number of gyms have other auto-belay systems and their popularity with users almost guarantees their continued use. Accidents with auto belays are not uncommon. As the recent recall indicates, a few of these accidents have been due to mechanical failures, but in truth very few. The vast majority of accidents are due to user error. The most common accident, somewhat amazingly, is the unintended solo where the climber (often distracted) simply forgets to clip into the auto belay, or, less commonly, clips in incorrectly. In most incidents, the climber only learns they are soloing as they lean back to descend. Other auto-belay incidents are common to all top-rope systems. For example, the climber on the autobelay traverses some distance to the side of the device. Falling, they swing back across the wall in a pendulum and collide with other climbers. If a gym has an auto-belay program, minimum practices require some form of orientation for members to use the device and signage indicating auto-belay rules and procedures in the facility. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%('

44 Chapter 6 Lead Climbing Overview: Lead-climbing courses, while relatively rare compared to top-rope or movement courses, are part of the indoor climbing environment. This chapter provides material for CWI Lead instructors who teach these courses. Teaching lead Climbing Student Assessment Lead-climbing and lead-climbing belaying are complex activities that both build upon and extend top-rope skills with new techniques, enhanced risk management, and heightened vigilance and anticipation. As such, it is imperative that a thorough assessment of your students take place at the outset of the program and, if possible, before the program begins. Consider: The experience level of the student. The technical climbing standard of the student. The belay style practiced by the student. The goals of the student. Site assessment It is important to choose a well-managed and effective site for teaching lead climbing. First and fore most, the wall must have bolts installed for lead climbing. A hanger bolted to a t-nut is inadequate. Tall walls are preferred so students can get out of ground fall range. Slightly overhanging walls with good holds are ideal. Very overhanging walls are good only if they are easy to climb; most lead-climbing students cannot hang on by one hand to clip. Vertical walls are acceptable for lead climbing, however some risk of hard impact exists. Corners are excellent as stemming permits easy clipping. Ensure the route does not traverse out on the wall with a potential pendulum back into the wall. Easy climbing and clipping holds for the first few bolts reduce the chance of a fall low on the route, with high fall factors and increased chance of impacting the belayer. Lead Belaying Lead-belaying is a significantly more complex activity than top-rope belaying. A successful lead belay builds on, and significantly expands upon, top-rope belaying. Consider: A lead belayer needs to be able to both feed out and take in slack. The belayer must change direction of rope flow quickly and smoothly. They need to be able to catch a much harder fall. They need to anticipate the climber s movements. Belay tube This is the easiest belay system to teach lead climbing belays with and is fortunately the preferred device for many recreational climbers. It is essential that lead-belayers using a belay tube have an ingrained instinct for the brake-hand. Slide non-brake hand near to plate, brake hand away from tube. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%((

45 Push both hands forward drawing rope through the belay device. Be ready to draw excess rope back from either side of the belay device. Common mistakes: Brake hand not in control of rope when rope is paid out. Brake hand is moved only a short way down the rope. Not giving enough rope for the leader to clip. Gri-Gri This is a more difficult device to teach lead-climbing with as feeding out rope quickly without releasing the brake hand is challenging. Novice lead-belayers with a GRIGRI are often unable to feed rope quickly and the chance of a lead fall is increased. Many people mistakenly regard the Gri-Gri as a hands free device. It is not. The brake hand must not leave the brake strand. The belayer holds the break strand with the brake hand and the strand going to the climber with the nonbrake hand. To feed slack, push the brake strand into the device with the brake hand, while pulling the strand going toward climber out with the non-brake hand. To feed rope quickly, slide the brake hand along the brake strand to the device. Manually hold the cam open with the thumb of the brake hand (Figure 6.1) while pulling the climbers' strand through the device with the non-brake hand. The belayer pulls enough rope through the rope to allow the climber to move upward or make the clip. Once enough rope has been fed to the climber, the belayer releases the cam and slides the brake hand along the brake strand, an inch or two, away from the device. Common mistakes: Leaving the cam depressed when not pulling out rope. Letting go with the brake hand to feed out rope. Not giving enough rope for the leader to clip. Note: while there are other devices on the market similar to the Gri-Gri, the Gri-Gri is by far the most common and the only one addressed here. All these devices have their own preferred techniques and it is the responsibility of the user to know them.) Figure 6.1 GriGri Lead Figure 6.2 Lead Feed AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%()

46 Rope tension A lead-climbing belayer need not keep the rope tight, as the climber will be unable to climb or clip. A slight bow of slack is sufficient. The clip When the leader is clipping a quick draw, they need rope immediately. The belayer needs to provide this quickly or else the leader will struggle and fall immediately or when their last amount strength fades. The stages: 1) Prepare: The belayer sees the climber move into a rest stance close to a bolt. The belayer prepares to give out rope but does not. 2 Give: the belayer sees the climber grab their tie-in. The belayer throws out two or three armfuls of slack rope. A step towards the wall can provide a little extra rope. 3) Compensate: The belayer hears the click of the carabiner. The belayer takes in the excess slack. (A step back can help.) Belaying skills Belayer movement Movement on the part of the belayer can greatly increase the efficiency and security of the lead belay. The Belayer may: Spot the climber to the first quick draw. Increase the slack given to the climber by simply taking a step towards the first quick draw. Decrease the slack by taking a step back Move the rope out of the climber s way so they do not trip on it. Belayer positioning Due to the longer falls and greater forces in lead-climbing, ill-chosen position on the part of the belayer can result in injury for both the climber and belayer in the case of a fall. Error 1: Belayer drifts back The belayer has drifted back. This common error occurs because: They desire for an easier look at the climber. They feel neck discomfort due to looking straight up. They have a habit from top-roping. In the event of a fall they will be dragged violently forward, perhaps losing control. Error 2: Belayer in the drop zone The belayer is positioned directly beneath the climber. A fall could result in a mid-air collision. Clipping quick draws The main new skill that the aspiring lead-climber needs to master is how to correctly clip the rope into the quick draw. Before a climber is ready to lead-climb, they should demonstrate competence by practicing with both hands while still on the ground, and if possible, from bouldering stances. With sufficient practice, most climbers can achieve a sufficient competence in one session. Mechanics of Clipping There are two patterns that must be learned, the Finger Clip, and the Pinch Clip. These clipping methods are named for the manner in which the carabiner is stabilized. Both patterns begin with the same initiation pattern. Initiating the clip Whether employing the finger clip or the pinch clip, the first two steps are the same. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%(*

47 1. Clipping hand cups the knot from below, thumb away from harness. 2. Hand slides out the rope one arm length. Method 1: Finger clip 1. Pinch the rope between thumb and forefinger so that rope is approximately parallel to your fingers. 2. Roll your hand over so back of hand is facing upwards 3. Place the first pad of your middle finger in the bottom of the carabiner and draw the carabiner towards your hand. 4. Push the rope in with thumb. Method 2 Pinch clip 1. Place the rope on the notch between the middle and forefinger and grasp the rope with your remaining fingers. 2. Turn your hand over and stabilize the carabiner by pinching it between the thumb (on spine) and the middle finger (on gate opening.) 3. Push the rope in with your index finger. 4. Both clipping techniques should be extensively practiced with each hand. Figure 6.4 Finger Clip Figure 6.3 Pinch Clip Lead hazards Errors in clipping In addition to the skills mentioned previously, all climbers should be taught to recognize: Back Clips A back clip is when the rope does not run properly from the wall through the carabiner to the climber. The result is a twisted draw that could potentially unclip in a fall. Z Clips A z clip occurs when the lead line zig zags from the highest clipped draw down to the second highest then up to the leader s harness. The rope drag will stall out the leader. The lead climber should always begin the clipping sequence by grabbing the tie-in knot to ensure they are clipping the correct part of the rope. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%(+

48 Errors in leading Clipping too low The climber should only clip quick draws below head height when low on the route. Clipping high introduces extra slack and may lead to ground-fall. Tripping When leading, the climber keeps the rope from passing behind the leg or else a fall will end up tripping the climber. Excessive traversing Traversing too far to the side of the line of bolts can lead to a pendulum fall. Leading above other climbers Avoid leading above other climbers. Lead-belaying Options include: Risk management Observe the climber belaying top-rope while the climber climbs up and down. This assures the belayer can move the rope in both directions. It is also an excellent way to assess their belay technique. With the rope running through the first draw, observe the belayer s ability to give slack, take slack, and lock the device correctly and efficiently. Belay a practicing leader who is independently top-roped. Belay an instructor. In a real lead-belay, a back-up belay from the instructor can reduce stress and keep the rope unsnarled on an initial attempt. Students catch a fall. Demonstrated Competence Lead-clipping Before allowing a student to lead-climb, the instructor should be confident that the student will be able to get the rope into the carabiner with little hesitation. Not every student will lead. Options include: Extensive ground practice, from standing and bouldering stances Mock-leading while top-roping on another rope (preferably a different color.) Ensure they do not clip the top anchor. A real lead belayed by an instructor. A real lead with one or more of the first quick draws clipped to prevent ground fall. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%(,

49 Mock-Leading Cautions: The climber must be instructed to clip the rope that goes down to the lead belayer. Using a rope of another color is helpful. The climber should not clip the top anchors with the lead rope. Two ropes in the top anchor could lead to friction damage. Lowering of the climber should be coordinated between the two belayers. Absorbing fall forces Fall Forces Leader falls generate great force (a mathematical relationship between mass and acceleration.) As this force can be lethal, the question remains, how are those forces absorbed? In order of importance: Rope stretch (calculated as fall factor ). Dynamic belay (counterbalance from the belayer s weight). Friction (minimal on artificial climbing structures). Fall Factor Simply put, the more rope that is in the system to stretch, the better the forces are absorbed. It is recommended that practice lead falls take place more than 15 feet off the ground to reduce stress on the climber, the belayer, the climbing rope, and the anchors. In the event of a leader fall, the belayer will be lifted by the weight of the falling climber, their body weight will slow the climber down over distance. This will greatly reduce remaining forces to the leader s body. Furthermore, the belayer will only have to hold on to the rope tightly enough to stay in place on the rope while their body weight stops the fall. After the fall, the belayer rappels to the ground. When a belayer fights lifting (by anchoring or sitting down) this dynamic element is eliminated. This will increase remaining forces to the leader s body. The belayer must hold on the brake tightly enough to keep rope from running through the device. Significant rope will run and rope burns are a distinct possibility. Advanced dynamics Many skilled lead belayers lock and leap to initiate their counterbalance. While useful for a heavy belayer/light climber team, this is difficult to teach and coordinate. Leaping too early means the belayer could start returning to earth as the leader hits the end of the rope Many old textbooks suggest letting the rope run as the leader hits the end of the rope to slow the fall. While appropriate with low holding power systems and anchored belayers, this is inappropriate on artificial climbing structures. Friction Friction is created by the rope running across carabiners and wall surfaces. Typically, friction is much lower on artificial climbing surfaces than on real rock. This emphasizes the role that rope stretch, fall factors and dynamic belays provide. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%(-

50 Teaching with fall forces Students should be given basic information on forces and how they are absorbed. Potential forces can be reduced by having lower quick draws pre-clipped (also reduces chance of a ground fall or belayer collision.) Encourage teams with equal- or lighter weight belayers. Train heavy belayers in the lock and leap strategy. Discourage lighter belayers from anchoring unless belaying with a better-gripping device (i.e. Jaws or GRIGRI) to avoid rope burns. Practice leader falls should be near the top of the wall. Back up belayers should be used to avoid loss of control on initial lifts. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%)/

51 CHAPTER 7 Teaching Movement Overview: Movement skills are the primary component to achieving fluidity, efficiency, and grace in climbing. This chapter includes some fundamentals in movement instruction but is not a definitive resource. Movement Teaching Movement Movement should be taught in a constant progression. Start with the absolute basics in movement and build up to more advanced skills. As climbers progress from beginner to intermediate and through to advanced, they will have fewer and shorter learning plateaus if they have a solid foundation in basic movement skills. The progression of skills taught therefore needs to be well thought-out and followed. Students should be taught on vertical terrain first, then progress to the steeper terrain. A common term used in climbing movement is the engram. This is a motor learning term, defined as a motor trace. Simply put, it is the neuromuscular memory of a skill. An example of a well-learned engram is riding a bike. Even without riding a bike for years, most individuals can hop onto a bike and do it. To do this, you are drawing upon your motor memory trace, or engram. Prepare to instruct Break the skill down to its fundamental elements. Consider preparing and taping boulder problems that will showcase the technique, preferably with left and right applications. The more advanced the skill, the more important this is to do. Introduce A demonstration is valuable, especially in the first half minute of the presentation. After naming the technique, immediately demonstrate it, telling the students what to watch. Describe the value of the technique. Present Demonstrations of the movement provide a visual picture. To be effective, these must be well-performed on appropriate terrain. Don t sandbag yourself by using non-climbing footwear or by trying a problem you cannot do while speaking Connect the movement to past movements or other sports when helpful (if the students have appropriate context.) Negative demonstrations (the skill done poorly to highlight errors) should rarely be done and if done, be clearly corrected with the proper technique. Keep the demonstration short and get the students practicing right away Coaching Let the students know what to practice, what to look for, and how much time they will have to practice. Ensure there is time for everyone to practice. Attempt to work with each climber during the practice session. Keep an eye on the spotting if spotting is being employed. Detect and Correct Physical guidance. With the student s permission, use your hands and legs to move a student into the proper positions. This develops a kinesthetic feel that the student can use to practice. To be effective, the student must achieve the action, and feel the difference. Verbal guidance. To be effective you must establish and use a consistent vocabulary. Questioning. Ask questions to involve students thinking about movement. To be effective, you must provide students with a stockpile of knowledge or experiences with which they can formulate an answer. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%).

52 Video-taping. To be effective, students must feel uninhibited and receive written or verbal feedback. Students will need to be instructed on what to look for in them.this type of instruction is usually not appropriate for beginners. Reciprocal teaching. Pass off coaching to other students in the group. To be effective, students must be specifically instructed on what to look for, and will need a common vocabulary. Show you know. Have students demonstrate back the skill they have learned. Conclude. Again, indicate the value of the technique. Discuss key points. Dynamic balance Balance Dynamic balance refers to movement that relies on motion for balance. An example is walking; most people are unable to stop in place while walking. Dynamic balance is essential for the fluid movements of advanced climbing but is rarely taught to beginning climbers. Static Balance It s hard to believe but many people can t stand on one foot Teaching students how to balance on one foot and find their center of gravity is the first step in creating static balance that can be used for climbing. To effectively teach and develop static balance you must help students become aware of the location of their own center of gravity. The center of gravity for most men is just below the belly button, in the mid-line of the body. For most women this point is slightly lower. For young children, the balance point can be quite high--up to a few inches above the bellybutton, in some cases. Static balance drill: ( see also medial weight shift ) Advanced: Have students stand with their feet shoulder-width apart. Get students to stand in-balance over one foot. Have them describe what creates balance. Have them walk slowly with exaggerated steps so that they can freeze at any time. This can also be done with blocks of wood in a wide pattern as foot-holds (the sumo-block exercise.) Balance Triangle Triangles are a very stable position. A climber with their feet at equal height and wide apart and their hands close together will naturally be in a more balanced, restful position. This is very helpful for beginners. While there are times when a route will force you to be out of a balance triangle, generally this position will be helpful. There are two ways to make a balance triangle: The primary triangle has feet wide and hands close together. It is very secure and easy to move hands. The secondary (inverted) is with the hands wide and the feet close. Moving the hands is difficult as it leads to a swinging barn door. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%)&

53 Stemming Stemming is essentially a very stable balance triangle in a corner or between opposing walls. The climber can rest and find balance. The challenge is to move the feet up without falling over The technique: Find your point of balance. If moving the left foot up, place the left hand on the wall in a down-press, ideally waist-high or below, and lock the arms and shoulder. This should feel like you can replace the function of the left leg with the left arm ( by leaning on the arm.) If possible, move your right hand to the mid-line. Lift the left foot to a higher position. (Generally, a wider stance is better.) Straighten the left leg. Reverse the process for the right foot. Most sports require balance, and climbing is no exception. Climbing has, in fact, been described as moving from one balance position to the next. It is the most important initial building block to develop in your students. Balance is described in two forms: Static balance: The ability to hold a pose in a balanced, on-moving position. Dynamic balance: The ability to fluidly move from one position of balance to another. Weight-shifts Lateral weight shift; (side to side) and the mechanics of lateral weight shift: Students need to understand that in order to efficiently move a foot, you must first un-weight that foot. To do this, the center of gravity must be shifted to your other foot prior to movement. Without a lateral weight shift, a student will have to use upper body strength in order to compensate for being out of balance. The sequence of lateral weight shift: Start in a static, balanced position on one foot. Spot the next foot hold for the moving foot. Place the moving foot onto the hold. Shift hips over the new foothold until a static balanced position over the new foothold is achieved. Note: Side-pulls may be used to draw their weight over the foot that they will be pushing with next. Medial weight shift (in-and-out); The mechanics of medial weight shift (in and out) and the mechanics of medial weight shift: A climber with hips pressed to the wall can rest and see handholds, but has difficulty seeing or moving their feet. In order to see a foothold, the climber needs to shift their weight out from the wall momentarily and then shift back in once they have placed their foot on the next hold. The sequence of medial weight shift Start in a static balanced position on foot holds. Press hips against the wall, arch back, and look for next hand holds. Shift hips out from wall and look down between legs for next foot hold. Spot the next foot hold. Place the foot on the hold and shift the hips in and over that left foot until in a static balanced position over the left foot. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%)'

54 RELAXATION Have you ever watched a top-level climber? Notice how smooth and effortless their climbing looks even when they are climbing at their limit. This is because they have learned to be as relaxed as possible on a route. Relaxation tips; Consciously relax your grip on every hand hold you use, to the point of just falling off. Use slow breathing patterns. Practice slow-motion climbing. Basic Footwork The ability to decide how best to use a foothold is helpful for efficient climbing. Initially, most beginners place their foot on a hold in the arch area of the shoe, like a stirrup. Getting them to use different areas of the shoe will be like turning on a light Initially, climbers must concern themselves with basic foot placements: Inside edging. Outside edging. Smearing. Foot switches. Inside edging The climber stands on the big toe part of the shoe. Inside edging is effective for beginners and most climbing on vertical walls as it is easy, balanced, and keeps the climber facing the wall. It also allows for the hips to be placed directly over a foot, in a resting position. It also increases the lateral reach of the climber. To do an inside edge; Get in balance over the other foot. Move the new foot to the new hold smoothly and directly (visual cues are key.) Make contact, then experiment with foot, heel, and ankle positions until it feels the most secure. (This may not always on the top of the hold.) Weight shift over the new foot, maintaining the foot position. Push up. Outside edging Figure 7.1 Toe Hold The climber uses the small toe part of the shoe on the hold, turns their same hip to the wall, and presses up. Outside edging is effective for intermediate climbers, and for most climbing on overhanging walls as it misbalanced, and efficient, especially when enhanced with a drop-knee or twist. On steep walls climbers can dramatically increase their reach. The sequence is similar to inside edging. Smearing Smearing is not a primary skill in an indoor facility where most walls are vertical or steeper. Smearing is however great tool for climbers to: Use as an intermediate step to avoid a high step. Create a balance triangle where there are no foot holds. Assist in foot switches. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%)(

55 To do a smear: Grab a good hold and lean back on it. Step up high with one foot, press it against the wall in line with the climber s mid-line, toe up, heel down. Weight shift over the new foot maintaining the foot position. Straighten the leg and rotate with the shoulders. Push up. Matching/foot switches Climbers often find themselves in situations where they have the wrong foot on a foot hold to complete the next move efficiently. This is more common on traversing or moving diagonally on walls. There are four ways to accomplish a foot switch: The Step-through The Hop Stacking Smearing If the hold is big enough, an easy way to match is to bring one foot through to another part of the same hold. Can be done by bringing the foot through either in front of or from behind. Very popular method with beginners. Works best on larger foot holds and with larger handholds. Un-weight the original foot by hopping slightly in the air, and replace it with the new foot on the same hold. Center of gravity must remain directly over the foothold being matched. One foot knifes down on the other foot. Start with the toe front pointing on the hold, the other foot is placed directly over the top of with the toes pointing ballerina-like. As the upper foot makes contact with the lower foot, the lower foot is taken away. Smear the replacement foot and transfer weight to it. Smear the foot from the foot hold and transfer weight to it. Place the new foot on the foot hold. Basic handholds Jug-hold This is the easiest handhold to use. The fingers of the hand can wrap down inside the hold. These holds can be set for all directions of pull. Jug-holds requiring a downward pull are recommended for starting, finishing, resting, and clipping hand holds. Flat-hold A flat edge that does not allow wrap-around. More pumpy and less secure than a jug-hold, especially on steep walls. Sloping hold A hold that the hand tends to slide off. A sloping hold requires finger-strength, skin friction, and steady smooth movement to work. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%))

56 Pinch holds A hold that juts out where the fingers squeeze in the opposite direction of the thumb. This type of hold is very tiring. Crimp A small edge. The fingers stack up to apply force. The thumb may press down over the fingers. This position naturally applies more force and power to a small hold, but may lead to tendon injuries. When more finger strength is developed the open handhold is equally powerful and less prone to injury. Open-hand hold This is a method of holding on to the same small edge as the crimp. When a climber develops strength in this type of hand hold, the results are nearly equal and the chance for injury is reduced. Pocket Holes in hand holds allow the climber to hold on by a finger or two. Although it is intuitive that the index finger is stronger, for one-finger pockets the middle finger is preferred as it pulls in line with the tendons of the arm. For two finger pockets choose the middle and ring fingers. Under-cling This is a powerful movement where the climber pulls back on an inverted jug while pushing with their feet. This creates a stable position. While an under cling can be used on holds near or slightly above head level, it is most powerful below chest level. Side-pull A hold that is pulled towards the midline of the body. Helps with weight shifts. Gaston A hold that is pulled away from the midline of the body. Requires power. Intermediate moves Layback The layback is most commonly used in corners. The body is sideways to the wall, hands are side-pulling or under clinging and the feet smearing. This technique requires great effort. Diagonal tension This is most effective on steep terrain. One hand holds on with the thumb pointing up or back to the climber. The opposite foot outside-edges directly below or beyond the handhold. This allows the free hand to reach further. Back-step One hand holds on, the same-side foot inside edges while the opposite foot outside edges. This gives stability and increases reach. Drop knee Similar to back-stepping except that the opposite foot holds is pushing away in a stem. The knee often points down. This creates lower-body stability on very steep ground. Heel-hook Creates stability between a high foot hold and hand hold between reaches. Can also be used as a side-pull to create stability when balance is compromised. Toe-hook Draws hips close to the wall. Can also be used as a side-pull to create stability when balance is compromised. AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%)*

57 Flagging Allows reach and balance when a foot hold is on the same side of the body as the hand hold. The free foot crosses behind the active foot hold. Teaching Movement Conclusion: Movement techniques have been presented here more to create a common vocabulary than to truly teach movement. Learning (and teaching) climbing movement can be lifetime endeavors far beyond the scope of this book and whole books have been devoted to the topic (several of the best of these are referenced in the bibliography.) While books can certainly help, climbing movement cannot be truly learned from a book, but only with immense practice, trial and error, and hopefully good coaching from skilled professionals. Figure 7.2 Finger Lock Figure 7.3 Hand Pull Figure 7.4 Hand Jam Figure 7.5 Side Pull Risk Management in Bouldering Despite bouldering s reputation as the safest form of climbing, injuries do occur. In fact, many gyms indicate that most of their injuries occur while bouldering. These injuries can be severe. Most are to the extremities (lower legs, ankles, and arms,) but some do occur to the neck and spine. The increased interest in bouldering (partly due to climbing media coverage) has led to more frequent injuries, both from trauma and over-use. Careful tone setting by the instructor (do not describe the activity as safe) and supervision, set the stage for effective teaching and practice. Site preparation Show the maximum bouldering height and any areas that are off-limits for bouldering in the facility. Remove items such as water bottles or climbing holds from the bouldering area. Though incidents involving jewelry getting caught while climbing indoors are rare, it may be worth having students remove jewelry when possible. Falling The one truth of bouldering is that every fall hits the ground. Indoors, modern flooring systems do a great deal to attenuate impact and lessen injuries, but teaching and learning how to fall is far and away the most important technique in reducing injuries while bouldering. Gyms with large bouldering programs often run multi-level (basic, intermediate, and advanced) programs designed specifically to teach falling skills. Some key points: If landing on your feet, stay relaxed but absorb the impact thru your entire body. Flex your knees. If the impact is great, roll back after landing (if room is available) to absorb even more. When not landing on your feet, try to spread the impact over as much core surface area as possible. Never try to stop a fall by sticking out an arm or hand This is a leading cause of injury. Your torso is a lot less AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%)+

58 fragile and absorbs impact much better. A key skill is developing awareness for both how you are likely to fall and how and where you are likely to land. Once this is developed, learning the specific falling technique is comparatively simple. Most climbing gyms have both built in flooring systems to absorb impact and moveable bouldering pads to soften landings even more. These definitely soften landings and can lessen injuries. Be aware, however, that they sometimes cause them. Injuries to the lower leg and ankle are often caused by landing on flooring or pad seams and rolling over. Pads are particularly tricky in this regards. A harder fall on a more uniform surface is often less hazardous than a soft fall where the chance of rolling over a seam is greater. Spotting Spotting is where one individual tries to direct the fall of another. It is generally taught in gyms and often over emphasized. Spotting is most appropriate when there is a risk of the falling bouldering hitting and injuring their head or neck. Spotting is not without risk to both climber and spotter. Spotters are at risk of injuring hands, wrists, and backs (for the latter, particularly if they confuse spotting with catching the falling climber.) Collisions between spotter and climber do not always go as planned. Spotting should be taught to students as an advanced skill with uses and applications. It may be unnecessary in many instances, particularly in indoor settings. Some other tips: Pair students by weight and size. Team spot where needed. Spotters should be attentive with their hands out (thumbs in) to guide the hips (vertical walls) or shoulders (caves) of the falling climber. Consider instructing climbers on landing properly by flexing their knees. A practice session where the climbers climb up, step off, and are spotted down may be helpful. This is an example of demonstrated competence. Warming up This is valuable both as an instructional tool and injury prevention. Consider using a warm-up/stretching session before a physically intense movement session. Figure 7.6 Spotting in Bouldering AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Technical Manual "#$%),