EIA Wild India - Panna National Park

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1 Naturetrek Tour Itinerary Outline Itinerary Extension Day 1 Depart London Day 9 Transfer to Bandhavgarh Day 2 Delhi Day 10/12 Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve Day 3 Fly Khajuraho; transfer to Panna Tiger Reserve Day 13 Full day Bandhavgarh; overnight train to Agra Day 4/8 Panna Tiger Reserve Day 14 Sightseeing in Agra; evening train to Delhi Day 9 Morning game drive; fly to Delhi Day 15 Fly London Day 10 Fly London Dates 2014 Friday 21st February Sunday 2nd March ,795 Bandhavgarh extension: to Friday 7th March Friday 20th February Sunday 1st March ,795 Bandhavgarh extension: to Friday 6th March Single room supplement 495 (Extension: 295) Focus Mammals and birds Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England T: +44 (0) F: +44 (0) E: info@naturetrek.co.uk W:

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3 Tour Itinerary Eagle Owl on the Ken River, Panna by Bret Charman Introduction Naturetrek brings you this unique 10-day tour. It focuses on Panna (National Park and) Tiger Reserve and offers an unusual opportunity to visit a Reserve that has been at the centre of much Tiger-focused conservation effort and which is also, arguably, India s most beautiful. Panna Tiger Reserve is situated in a stunning location by the Ken River and is a little off the general tourist map, which means we can enjoy its beauty and wildlife to the full in peaceful surroundings. There is plenty of wildlife to see here; in particular Panna Tiger Reserve offers superb birdlife as well as excellent opportunities to see a variety of India s hoofed mammals. We will not spend much time on this tour outside Panna Tiger Reserve, the aim being to make this holiday affordable to as many people as possible, and to satisfy those of you with limited time. However, if you would like to extend your holiday in any way perhaps including other national parks or cultural sites we will be pleased to organise this for you. Tourism & Saving Tigers Tigers are one of the most popular and instantly recognisable animals on the planet and yet they are endangered. At the turn of the century there were believed to be in the order of 40,000 tigers in India 50% of the world population. Today there may be as few as 1,411 in India and 2,500 worldwide. Tourism plays a vital role in helping to protect endangered species and by visiting the Reserve you are making an important contribution to Tiger conservation. Until the last few years, Panna had been a Tiger success story. A 2008 official survey recorded an estimate of 24 Tigers in the reserve however by 2009 the entire Tiger population had been eliminated by poaching with the collusion of Forest department officials. However, in the past couple of years tigers have been reintroduced in Panna from Kanha and Bandhavgarh National parks. At Present there is a healthy population of 5 tigers and around Naturetrek

4 Tour Itinerary EIA Wild India - Panna National Park 10 cubs. Their progress is being regularly monitored by the forest department. This Reserve remains a very special place to see India s wildlife and, though numbers have declined, still provides a chance of Tiger encounters. Day 1 Friday In Flight We depart London in the early afternoon on an Emirates scheduled flight to Delhi, via Dubai (duty-free shopping at Dubai International Airport is amongst the best and the cheapest in the world). We will be in flight overnight. Day 2 Saturday Delhi Our stay in Delhi for this holiday is usually at the 5-star deluxe, Westin, Gurgaon (we cannot guarantee a particular hotel, but always endeavor to book one of a high standard not far from the airport). The hotel features an array of eclectic and exciting eateries. Whether you re looking for a quick bite while you re on the go or a comfortable setting in which to savour a meal, tantalizing options, are at hand. With a varied variety of five restaurants and lounges at Westin, you can indulge in Pan-Asian favourites at Eest or Italian cuisine in an indoor or alfresco setting at Prego. To experience International cuisine with a blend of authentic Indian, Seasonal Tastes is a buffet/ a-la-carte dining area with live kitchens. Evenings cocktails can be enjoyed at Mix Lounge and Bar or by the pool at Splash. We may also make use of its facilities, which include a pool and a spacious spa and health centre before the next phase of our journey. It is situated in the satellite township of Gurgaon in the National Capital Region of Delhi which has many malls and hence provides a lot of options for shopping and fine dining. Our stay in this luxury hotel is well deserved after a long flight! If we do not stay at the Westin, a hotel offering an equivalent standard of rooms and service will be used. Day 3 Sunday Delhi to Panna Tiger Reserve, via Khajuraho This morning we transfer to Delhi airport to catch the flight to Khajuraho, in the state of Madhya Pradesh. After arriving at Khajuraho Airport we will have a sightseeing tour of the historic and ancient city of Khajuraho. There are no finer examples of early Indian art than the magnificent and, it has to be said, erotic carvings which adorn some of the magnificent temples in Khajuraho. The temples are set in lovely parkland and their carvings are frequently depicted in Indian tourist literature, attracting thousands of tourists to the city each year. This is a cultural excursion that even hardened naturalists will not want to miss! After our sightseeing stop in Kajuraho we ll make the short drive (around 45 minutes) to Panna. We will be staying at the Ken River Lodge, situated just outside Panna Tiger Reserve, for six nights. The lodge has a stunning riverside location and offers basic, chalet-style accommodation with private facilities. Plumbing can sometimes be temperamental though! The lodge has a treetop restaurant overlooking the Ken River. Staff are friendly and knowledgeable about the local wildlife, and there is an interesting variety of birdlife in the vicinity. Days 4 8 Monday Friday Panna Tiger Reserve 2 Naturetrek 2013

5 Tour Itinerary Panna Tiger Reserve encompasses 543 square kilometres of varied habitats and extends along the Ken River, which flows north to join the Yamuna River, a tributary of the mighty Ganges. The region, which is famous for its diamonds, is also home to some of the best wildlife species in India. A former hunting preserve of the Panna family, the Tiger Reserve comprises large tracts of riverine forest providing perfect cover for both predators and prey. There are Leopard and Wolf in the Reserve, though both species are elusive. Herds of Spotted Deer inhabit the Reserve, as well as Nilgai, Chinkara, Sambar and the shy Chousingha. Together, these species form the principal prey for the Tigers. Along the Ken River, near the spectacular Raneh Falls, there is a Gharial sanctuary and hopefully we ll be lucky enough to see a number of these endangered fish-eating crocodiles basking on the muddy banks. Over 200 species of birds have been identified in Panna Tiger Reserve and we are likely to encounter more than 100 species around the reserve to augment our mammal observations. There is a good variety of birds of prey, including Black-shouldered Kite, Crested Serpent Eagle, White-eyed Buzzard, Shikra, and several species of vulture. In the forests Malabar Pied Hornbill, Black-headed Oriole, and a selection of flycatchers, babblers and warblers add yet more exciting possibilities for bird enthusiasts. One of the reasons why Panna is such an excellent Reserve for birdlife is that it has maintained high levels of biodiversity. Its central location makes it a wonderful place for passage migrants, too. We will make daily visits to Panna Tiger Reserve and our aim will be to observe, enjoy and photograph the Reserve s many species of mammals and birds. Naturally, we ll spend a great deal of time looking for Tigers, though Tiger numbers have decreased in Panna over the last few years due to poaching, there is scope for numbers to increase again as they did before. Tiger sightings can never be guaranteed. However, it is one of the best times of year for seeing them and we ll be in the Reserve for a relatively long period of time, both of which will increase our chances. After that, it s a question of luck! Our explorations inside the Tiger Reserve will involve a mixture of early morning and afternoon jeep drives, as well as the possibility of short trips on elephant back. We might also take a morning boat ride. If so, these will be taken in small boats, which are low to the water, and offer a unique and very atmospheric way to watch wildlife. In particular we will be looking out for birds and crocodiles! This will provide a unique opportunity to see some of Panna s more elusive nocturnal animals. Outside Panna Tiger Reserve we ll be able to enjoy the area s birdlife on foot. Walking is not allowed inside any of India s Tiger reserves for obvious reasons! We ll aim to leave our lodge each morning at about 5.45am, taking a picnic breakfast with us to eat at one of the designated stopping places. Then we ll stay in the Reserve for around four hours until it closes during the hottest part of the day. Lunch will be eaten back at the lodge, after which there will be time for a siesta or to go on short birdwatching walks in the grounds. We will return to the Reserve when it opens again at 3pm and stay there for a couple of hours. Day 9 Saturday Panna to Delhi, via Khajuraho Naturetrek

6 Tour Itinerary EIA Wild India - Panna National Park We ll make one last game drive in Panna Tiger Reserve today and hope to end our stay with some special sightings! We leave Panna in the early afternoon, retracing our steps by bus to Khajuraho. From here, we will take our flight to Delhi. Here we will transfer to a 5-star hotel, Westin Gurgaon or in one of the airport hotels for a wash and brush up, (only a few rooms will be booked for the whole group) before we will have a late-night transfer to catch the plane to London. Day 10 Sunday In Flight We depart Delhi in the early hours of the morning on a scheduled flight to London, arriving just after midday. NB. Please note that the itinerary above offers our planned programme of excursions. However, adverse weather and other local considerations can necessitate some re-ordering of the programme during the course of the tour, though this will always be done to maximise best use of the time and weather conditions available. Bandhavgarh Extension The minimum number of people required to run this extension is five; however, we may decide to operate it with fewer people, at our discretion, with local guides.) Extension cost: 995 Single Room Supplement: 295 Introduction Bandhavgarh (National Park and) Tiger Reserve, situated amid the airy Vindhya Hills of Madhya Pradesh, has established a reputation as one of the best places in India to observe Tigers. Although a relatively small reserve when first established in 1968, it was enlarged 20 years later to include adjacent tracts of Sal forest and this extension has proved very beneficial for the Tiger population. Estimates for 2008 suggest that the whole park area could have as many as 47 Tigers, so make sure you have your binoculars at the ready! Formerly the hunting reserve of the Maharajas of Rewa, the area contains much evidence of its royal associations, most spectacular being the ruins of a huge hilltop fort which dominates the centre of the Reserve. Bandhavgarh is somewhat isolated in the rural heart of India, but the long road journey here from Panna Tiger Reserve is well worth the effort and visitors are richly rewarded by a fine selection of wildlife as well as the chance of encounters with the greatest of the big cats. Day 9 Saturday Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve 4 Naturetrek 2013

7 Tour Itinerary After breakfast, we will start our long drive to Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve. The drive, which takes about six hours, is a fascinating opportunity to see rural Indian life. We will pass villages, schools and lovely countryside and there will be chances to make some interesting stops during our journey. During our time at Bandhavgarh we will be staying for four nights at the Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge, situated about 2km from the Reserve. Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge is a comfortable lodge offering spacious, individual cottages with en suite facilities. There is a good restaurant serving mainly Indian food, though a choice is possible on request. Day Sunday Tuesday Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve This morning, we ll take our first game drive in Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve. This will begin our routine of early morning and afternoon visits and we ll make a total of eight during our stay here. Sal forest predominates in Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve, giving way to tracts of mixed forest at higher elevations in the hills. To the north there are expanses of grassland and bamboo. The core of the Tiger Reserve is hilly. It s dominated by a long-deserted ancient fort, which rises 800m above the forest and sits at the top of an impressive plateau. It s a steep climb through dense vegetation to the top, but the rewards are breathtaking views from the ramparts, as well as ancient rock carvings among the ruins. In a region as arid as this the presence of water attracts wildlife. Luckily, the Tiger Reserve contains pools and streams, which ensure that it is frequented by both game and predators. We will explore the Tiger Reserve mainly by following a network of jeep tracks that lead into the forested areas. Our excursions in the Tiger Reserve will be by jeep, but we may also transfer briefly to riding elephants on some mornings. We will, of course, be looking for Tigers in the Reserve. The movements of the resident Tigers are well known to the mahouts and we will rely on their intimate knowledge of the terrain to locate them. If they spot a Tiger they will take us off the beaten track to view it by elephant. Please note that elephant rides, if they occur, are only in the mornings. They depend on availability of elephants and on the successful tracking of Tigers by the mahouts and cannot be guaranteed. Tigers are elusive creatures and quick to vanish into cover, but a huge paw print in the dust or the alarm cries of deer or langurs often betray the presence of an animal. At moments like this it is essential that we are, as a group, both silent and patient. Our reward for this will be, we hope, an unforgettable moment. When the king of the forest saunters into view with scarcely a glance at the human intruders, then walks in a deliberate manner across the track only to disappear again into the undergrowth, it is one of the most thrilling wildlife spectacles in the world. As well as making early morning and afternoon excursions we will have periods of relaxation back at our lodge, which are especially welcome during the midday heat. Although Tigers are the star attraction at Bandhavgarh, there is an impressive supporting cast of mammals and birds, the latter including species such as Grey-headed Fishing Eagle, Plum-headed Parakeet, Malabar Pied Hornbill, Greater Racket-tailed Drongo and Asian Paradise Flycatcher; over 250 species have been recorded in the Reserve. Tour members with an interest in ornithology will value the time between game drives as an opportunity to explore some of the habitats close to our base. There is no shortage of prey in the Reserve for both the Tigers and less frequently seen Leopards. The Spotted Deer, or Chital, is a favourite item on the Tiger menu and several thousand of these delightful deer inhabit the Naturetrek

8 Tour Itinerary EIA Wild India - Panna National Park Reserve. Other species found here in varying abundance include Chinkara, Chousingha, Wild Boar, Sambar, Muntjac and Nilgai. There used to be herds of Asian Bison, or Gaur, in the Reserve. However, no Gaur have been seen at Bandhavgarh since 1998, though there are plans for a reintroduction programme. A hunting pack of Indian Wild Dogs, or Dhole, is seen occasionally. Mammal sightings always require a degree of luck, particularly when a species is essentially nocturnal or reclusive, but each outing in the Reserve provides a chance to meet one of its rarer inhabitants such as Sloth Bear, Indian Fox, Jackal, Wolf, Ratel, Striped Hyena, Jungle Cat or Indian Pangolin. Wild Boar are frequently heard as they root among the vegetation. Other animals present in larger numbers in the Reserve include several species of mongoose, Rhesus Macaque, Indian Hare and the delightful Palm Squirrel lively little animals that seem to be in a constant state of agitation. Common Langurs are also plentiful, sitting with an elevated view of the forest as they devour their favourite leaves. This gives them an excellent vantage point for spotting predators and they are often the first creatures to bark out warning of a Tiger below. We are never short of wildlife to watch in this gem of a reserve and we will doubtless have many unforgettable encounters with the creatures that flourish within the protection of the Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve. Day 13 Wednesday Overnight Train to Agra We ll have our final game drive in Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve this morning and hope to see something special to mark the end of our trip! Later in the day we drive to Katni Rail Station and board the overnight express to Agra. We ll have air-conditioned sleeper compartments for this journey. Day 14 Thursday Agra & Delhi We arrive in the fascinating Moghul city of Agra in the morning. After refreshing ourselves at a city hotel we will head straight for Agra s most famous monument, the Taj Mahal. We will spend the whole morning enjoying the magnificent atmosphere of the Taj, its splendid gardens with their backdrop of the Yamuna River and the bird life within the grounds. Later, after tearing ourselves away from the magical Taj, we will visit Itmad-ud-Daulah (meaning baby Taj ), the mausoleum of Mirza Ghiyas Beg (the grandfather of Mumtaz Mahal, the lady of the Taj). This monument is as magnificent as the Taj Mahal itself and set in idyllic riverside gardens. Agra Fort, too, is a marvellous structure, with towering walls 2½km high. By the time we are ready to board our evening express train to Delhi, we ll have had a wonderfully cultural day. Arriving in Delhi three hours later, we will be transferred straight to the airport for our return flight to London. Day 15 Friday London We depart Delhi in the early hours of the morning on an Emirates scheduled flight to London, arriving just after midday. 6 Naturetrek 2013

9 Tour Itinerary Grading A (easy). It is a safari-style mammal and birdwatching tour and transport will be in jeeps with the possibility of a brief transfer to elephant back. The level of walking on this tour will not be strenuous. It focuses on a lengthy study of one national park and Tiger reserve and avoids the tiring travelling that is a necessary component of more typical wildlife tours of India, though it has to be said that travel by road and rail in India is always a bit of an adventure! Clothing A separate clothing list will be sent to you on booking. Please inspect it thoroughly. Weather The weather should be mostly fine and sunny by day with temperatures in the region of C. Please note that at night and during early morning game drives it can be bitterly cold. On morning drives temperatures will rise only as the sun gathers strength. November tends to be cooler than February. Food & Accommodation All accommodation and meals are included, except for any meals required in Delhi (the range of restaurants here is exceptional and well worth taking advantage of). We ll be staying at the Ken River Lodge in Panna. For the extension trip to Bandhavgarh, accommodation will be at Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve Both lodges are set in attractive grounds and offer individual rooms/cottages with en suite facilities. Extra Expenses Please note that we do not include the following in the cost of this holiday: all lunches and dinners in Delhi and all items of a more personal nature such as drinks, laundry, souvenirs and tips for guides and drivers (allow 40 in total for tips. More detailed information about tipping will be provided on booking). Flights We use scheduled Emirates flights for all our tours to India, because this airline offers an excellent all-round service, including departures from Manchester, Birmingham and Glasgow. Please note that departures from regional airports may be subject to an additional charge. If you would prefer to travel from one of these regional airports please let us know at the time of booking so that we can make the necessary arrangements and obtain a competitive fare. The sole disadvantage of Emirates flights to India is a 3½-hour transit time in Dubai on the outbound flight, and a 2-hour transit time on the return flight (these transit times are less if you are travelling from Heathrow). If you would prefer a direct flight you can opt to travel with British Airways, Air India, Virgin Atlantic or Jet Airways. We will gladly arrange a direct flight for you, but please give us plenty of warning. Expect to pay approximately an extra 200 and 250 for direct flights. If you decide to fly direct an extra night might need to be added at the beginning of the tour due to difference in timings. Expect to pay an extra 95 to 125 for a night s city Naturetrek

10 Tour Itinerary EIA Wild India - Panna National Park accommodation. These prices are only approximate and may vary according to availability and season. We will be pleased to approach the respective airline for you and offer a quote on request. If you would prefer to travel Business Class or First Class, please call us for competitive quotes. National Parks remain closed to public access on Wednesdays afternoons The National Parks Authority for Madhya Pradesh have announced that all National Parks in the State will remain closed to public access on Wednesday afternoons until further notice. This order will affect Pench, Kanha, Bandhavgarh, Satpura and Panna Reserves. The inconvenience caused to Naturetrek tour participants is regretted but unfortunately there is nothing we can do to facilitate entry during these closures. On occasions when our tour itinerary would normally include entry to one of these reserves on a Wednesday afternoons we will arrange alternative natural history activities either around the periphery of the National Parks or in nearby wildlife habitats. Extensions You can opt to extend this tour with visits to other wildlife areas in India. Choices include: Kanha or Ranthambhore Reserves to increase the chances of Tiger sightings, or Bharatpur for the birdlife. We will be glad to discuss options with you and provide quotations as required. The airfare is not affected by staying longer in India since the only additional costs are for the ground arrangements. Holi Departure Among India s innumerable festivals, Holi ranks as the most colourful. It celebrates both the arrival of spring and death of the demoness Holika. It is a celebration of joy and hope, which provides a refreshing respite from mundane normality as people from all walks of life enjoy themselves. Holi is celebrated with great vigour throughout India. Countless Hindi films have brought the vibrant colours of the festival to the screen and Indians all over the world eagerly await this festival, as bonfires are lit to banish the cold dark nights of winter and usher in the warmer spring. Dhuleti, the day after Holi, is the Festival of Colours, when everything (and everyone!) in sight is covered in a riot of colours. It is customary for celebrants to soak each other with water, coloured dyes and even paint, so it is advisable for anyone venturing out during Holi to wear their oldest clothes! There is a boisterous atmosphere to the streets of most towns, and tourists are by no means immune from receiving a soaking! In tight-knit communities, it also provides a good excuse for letting off steam and settling old scores, without causing physical injury. The Festival in 2014 falls on Monday, 17th March and in 2015 falls on Friday, 6th March and will have some impact on the operation of our tour at that time. Unfortunately, Tiger Reserves will be closed to visitors for one day, so we will not be able to undertake game drives on that day. We apologise for this interruption to our programme of visits to the reserve but as compensation you may wish to observe the Holi celebrations in one of the nearby villages. Holi is a very important cultural event in the Hindu year and it can provide tourists with a chance of seeing an uninhibited aspect of the Indian character that is not so apparent at other times. Tour members seeking a quieter day can opt to relax around the lodge or do some birdwatching locally. Road travel is discouraged on Holi day, so we are unable to offer any alternative excursions. 8 Naturetrek 2013

11 Tour Itinerary Entry Requirements All UK passport holders and most other nationalities require a visa for India, which is obtainable in advance from your nearest embassy. No vaccinations are mandatory for entry, but as recommended in our brochure we think it is wise to also be protected against TB, polio, typhoid, tetanus and hepatitis A and take malaria prophylactics. Above all, it is essential to also consult your GP about your individual requirements as soon as possible before travelling. How to Book Your Place! In order to book a place on this holiday, you will need to read our main Naturetrek brochure and complete and return the enclosed booking form, together with a deposit of 20% of the holiday cost. If you do not have a copy of this brochure, please give us a call on and we will gladly post one to you. Alternatively, you are welcome to book online at or by calling on If you would like us to call you, please send us an on info@naturetrek.co.uk or rajan@naturetrek.co.uk and we will call you right back. Please book as early as possible to avoid disappointment. Please provide us with your passport details (passport number, date of issue, date of expiry and your date of birth) at the time of booking. Early Booking on Tiger Tours is essential! Our past winter season of 'Tiger tourism' started badly due to the Indian courts' indecision over an interim ban on tourism to India's Tiger Reserves which lasted from July until October When the ban was finally lifted, as we'd always expected it to be, our Naturetrek clients visiting between October and January were able to enjoy the luxury of low tourist numbers in the reserves. By February however, the Tiger Reserves were busy again - although new regulations, including a drastic reduction in the number of jeeps and visitors permitted to enter such popular reserves as Bandhavgarh, Kanha and Pench each day, meant that those booking late could often not be accommodated. The simple fact is that the number of beds available at the lodges servicing each of these parks now far exceeds the tiny number of visitors permitted to enter each day. We cannot therefore emphasise strongly enough that early booking is essential. You really do need to book now if you are to secure a place on a tour that visits one of these Tiger Reserves next season. This past winter some permits have sold out 5 or 6 months in advance. Naturetrek