INSTRUCTIONS MECHANICAL MODELS MODE D EMPLOI MODÈLES MÉCANIQUES

Transcription

1 INSTRUCTIONS MECHANICAL MODELS MODE D EMPLOI MODÈLES MÉCANIQUES

2 LA MONTRE HERMÈS S.A., CASE POSTALE BIENNE / SUISSE TEL. +41 (0) / FAX +41 (0)

3 YOUR HERMÈS WATCH Your Hermès watch is equipped with a quartz movement. It has been subjected to a full set of quality tests before leaving the Hermès watchmaking workshops in Bienne, Switzerland. Quartz movements Swiss made. The battery life may vary from one model to another depending on the energy consumption required for its various functions, particularly for models with a chronograph or an alarm function. It is worth noting that all movements with a central seconds hand have a battery end-of-life (EOL) indicator. When the seconds hand begins to jump every four seconds, it is time to have its battery changed by an authorised Hermès watchmaker. 44

4 In compliance with European directives, kindly do not dispose of a worn battery along with non-sorted waste. 45

5 Environmental Protection Use Period (EPUP) This product can be used safely during its environmental protection use period of 50 years. For any additional information in this regard please contact our customer service: Part Name Lead (Pb) Mercury (Hg) Cadmium (Cd) Hazardous Substances Hexavalent Chromium (Cr(VI)) Polybrominated biphenyls (PBB) Polybrominated diphenyl ethers (PBDE) Movement (steel alloys) X O O O O O Movement (copper alloys) X O O O O O Movement (high melting temperature type solders) X O O O O O This table is prepared in accordance with the provisions of SJ/T O: Indicates that said hazardous substance contained in all of the homogeneous materials for this part is below the limit requirement of GB/T X: Indicates that said hazardous substance contained in at least one of the homogeneous materials used for this part is above the limit requirement of GB/T

6 Metals used 316L steel: a stainless alloy. DLC coating: the coating of a material with Diamond-Like Carbon (DLC). Gold plating: the steel is coated with a layer of gold at least 10 μm thick. 750 gold and steel: 750 solid gold and 316L steel, or 316L steel coated with a layer of 750 gold at least 250 μm thick. 750 gold: an alloy composed of 75% pure gold, silver, copper or palladium in variable proportions according to its colour (yellow gold, rose gold or white gold). Titanium: 99% pure grade 2 titanium. 950 platinum: an alloy composed of 95% platinum and 5% ru thenium. 950 palladium: an alloy composed of 95% palladium, 2.9% gallium and 2.1% molybdenum. 47

7 Diamonds Whatever their shape, they are of Top Wesselton V.V.S. clarity and F/G colour, apart from brown diamonds. Driven by a constant concern to guarantee its ethical, social and environmental commitment, Hermès helps improve the practises of all actors in the supply chain and commits to promoting them among its business partners, particularly through its membership of the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC). Hermès interchangeable strap system Your Hermès watch may be equipped with an ingenious interchangeable strap system. Thanks to this function, you will be easily able to change straps without having to visit a Hermès point of sale. If you have several straps already fitted with a buckle, you will thus enjoy the multiple pleasures of wearing them as you so wish. 48

8 The tool supplied with your watch enables you to slightly shift the catch on the back of the strap, enabling you to release the strap on one side of the lug and then the other. Perform the same operation in reverse order to fit a new strap. If you have no tool available, you can use the tip of your fingernail to shift the catch. Always check that your strap is properly secured by tugging it lightly before wearing your watch. Hermès cannot be held liable for any incorrect handling when changing strap. 49

9 Double-safety folding clasp Your Hermès strap may be fitted with an articulated buckle that unfolds when opened. It has been specially designed to guarantee maximum security thanks to two devices. 1. It is opened by simultaneously pressing two lateral pushbuttons on either side of the buckle. The device is thus held closed by a click system. 2. A press is also enough to lock the pin into the buckle. CLIC! 50

10 Watch glass Apart from the Kelly watches, all models are fitted with a scratchresistant anti-glare sapphire crystal. Water resistance Water resistance tested to 3 bar for all models equipped with a quartz movement, apart from the following exceptions: Clipper watches are water-resistant to at least 5 bar. Clipper watches equipped with a screw-lock crown or made of titanium are water-resistant to 10 bar. Kelly watches are not water-resis tant. 51

11 It is important to always push the crown back against the case after any handling in order to guarantee water resistance. If your watch is equipped with a screw-lock crown or pushbuttons, it is also important to screw them back in after any handling. The crown and pushbuttons must not be pressed or otherwise handled when in contact with water, including in case of splashing. 52

12 No immersion Splashing Gentle rain Swimming Freediving Windsurfing Surfing Scuba diving Diving Jet-ski Non water-resistant Water-resistant to 3 bar Water-resistant to 5 bar Water-resistant to 10 bar Water-resistant to 20 bar In any case, it is inadvisable to wear your Hermès watch fitted with a leather strap when in contact with water. 53

13 RECOMMENDATIONS General recommendations When storing your Hermès watch, it should ideally be kept in the original box or in a pouch specially designed for this purpose. If you own several watches, avoid direct contact between them in order to preserve their outward appearance. Keep your Hermès watch in a well-ventilated place away from moisture and heat. It is strongly advisable to avoid prolonged exposure to direct sunlight or bright lighting, since ultraviolet rays may produce changes in colour of the dial, hands and strap. To avoid fingerprints or specks of dust on your Hermès watch, use a clean microfibre cloth and never rub hard. 54

14 Regular maintenance of the movement As with all precision instruments, the movement of your Hermès watch must be regularly maintained and tested in order to guarantee its optimal operation. Quartz models should be serviced at least every five (5) years. Recommendations for quartz models Even when you are not using your Hermès watch with a quartz movement, the battery continues to drive the mechanism. When a worn-out battery is still inside the movement, the electrolytic acid present inside the battery could escape and seep into the movement, thereby damaging it. It is important not to keep a worn-out battery inside a movement. 55

15 Preserving water resistance The water resistance of your watch has been tested according to the Hermès production norms applicable to your model. Its water resis tance depends on the hermetically sealed assembly of the parts composing the case, the glass(es) and the winding-crown, as well as on the maintenance of the numerous joints and gaskets. If your Hermès watch is accidentally immersed in seawater, it should be rapidly wiped off with a soft cloth moistened with fresh water and then dried with a soft dry cloth. The use of cosmetic products (shampoo, bodywash, soap) when showering or bathing may damage the water-resistance seals of your watch. It is important not to wear your Hermès watch when engaging in such activities. Magnetism There are an increasing number of magnetic fields present in our environment. These can affect the precision of the movement. We advise you to avoid exposing your watch to high-intensity magnetic fields. 56

16 Such magnetic fields may emanate from various sources, including cellphones and digital tablets, magnetic clasps on handbags or bracelets, refrigerators and microwave ovens, loudspeakers and televisions, blowdryers and electric razors. Physical shocks A sudden strong shock caused by the practice of sports such as golf or an accidental fall to the floor or blow to the case may not only spoil the exterior appearance of your Hermès watch, but also damage its mechanism. Certain parts of the mechanism are less than a tenth of a milli metre in diameter. While damage to these parts may not be apparent from an external examination of the watch, they may be detrimental to the performance of your Hermès watch. 57

17 Thermal shocks The optimal temperature range for your Hermès watch is between 0 to 50 C (32 to 122 F). Prolonged exposure to temperatures below 0 C (32 F) may impair performance (usually a time loss). Prolonged exposure to temperatures above 50 C (122 F) may affect the running of the movement and should therefore be avoided. 58

18 HERMÈS LEATHER Patiently fashioned by passionately dedicated artisans, the leather strap of your Hermès watch is made from a living material that becomes progressively suppler and takes on a distinctive patina over time. Hermès uses exclusively full-grain leathers crafted in such a way as to reveal their natural characteristics. These hides selected for their beauty are not given any excessive protective chemical treatment that might alter their true essence. This is their primary quality that enables them to age gracefully and obviates the need for any standard care products that are not suited to Hermès leathers. To help you take good care of your Hermès leather strap, we invite you to read the following advice carefully. 59

19 When it is on your wrist, protect the strap from natural elements such as water, grease, heat, light, excess humidity and dryness. If it comes into contact with water, rub it immediately with a dry cloth. Do not wear your watch fitted with a leather strap when engaging in physical activity. Some materials can leave an indelible mark on leather, such as ink (felt pens, ballpoint pens), cosmetics or oily creams. Do not wear any jewellery alongside your watch, since it could damage the watch and its strap. When off the wrist, your Hermès leather strap must be stored in a cool dry place away from direct sunlight. Thus safeguarded and pampered, the strap of your Hermès watch will be embellished through extended contact with you and will acquire its own distinctive character as time goes by. 60

20 ADJUSTING THE HOURS, MINUTES AND DATE IMPORTANT Kindly take the following steps to ensure the smooth running of the movement. The time may be set at any time. To avoid any risk of damaging your watch, kindly avoid making any other adjustments between 9 p.m. and 2 a.m. Your watch guaranteed water-resistant to 10 bar may be equipped with a screw-lock crown. In order to release the crown for winding and setting, it must be unscrewed by turning it counter-clockwise between thumb and forefinger. It is important to screw it back in after any handling, so as to guarantee water resistance. The crown and pushbuttons should not be pressed or otherwise handled under water. The pushbuttons must not be pressed or handled when the crown is pulled out, since this might de-index the chronograph hands. 61

21 If your watch has no date indication, proceed to step Normal operating position Crown in position 1 (initial position) The crown is completely pushed up against the case, i.e. the normal position when the watch is worn. If your watch has no date indication, its crown has no intermediate position 2. 62

22 2. Preparing the movement for correction Crown in position 3 (fully pulled-out position) Pull the crown to position 3; all hands stop. Then turn the crown counterclockwise until the date changes (date jump) so as to determine that it is midnight (and not noon). Continue turning the crown counter-clockwise to position the hands at 3 a.m. in order to make the following adjustments. You are thus outside the time-slot (between 9 p.m. and 2 a.m.) in which you risk damaging the movement. 3. Setting the time Crown in position 3 (fully pulled-out position) Pull the crown out to position 3. Then turn the crown counter-clockwise to set the time. If your watch does not have a date indication, proceed to step 5. 63

23 4. Setting the date Crown in position 2 (intermediate position) The date must be adjusted at the end of each month of 28, 29 or 30 days. Place the crown in position 2. Turn the crown clockwise to set the date. Do not set the date between 9 p.m. and 2 a.m. 5. Preparing the watch for wear Push the crown back in to position 1 (initial position). The movement starts running and water resistance is guaranteed. If your watch is equipped with a screw-lock crown, screw it back in by pressing it and simultaneously turning it clockwise. 64

24 ADJUSTING THE HOURS AND MINUTES FAUBOURG MANCHETTE WATCH IMPORTANT No pressure must be exercised on the pushbutton on the back of your Faubourg Manchette watch when in contact with water, including splashing. We recommend that you handle the pushbutton exclusively using the correcting tool supplied with your watch. 65

25 1. Setting the time Your Faubourg Manchette watch is not equipped with the traditional winding crown for setting the time. This operation is done by means of a pushbutton on the back of the case. One short press (< 2 sec) moves the minutes hand one minute forwards. One medium-length press (< 4 sec) moves the hands one full hour forwards without losing track of the minute. One protracted press (> 4 sec) keeps the hands moving forwards until the pushbutton is released. 66

26 45 15 CHRONOGRAPH FUNCTION Display with 1/10-second function Chronograph hands 30-minute counter Central seconds hand 1/10-second counter Pushbutton A Crown Pushbutton B Hours hand Small seconds Minutes hand Date window Watch hands 67

27 Display with alarm function Chronograph hands 30-minute counter 12-hour counter Central seconds hand Alarm subdial Alarm minutes hand Pushbutton A Alarm hours hand 24 Crown Pushbutton B Minutes hand Small seconds Hours hand Date window Watch hands 68

28 TIMING AND TOTALIZER IMPORTANT Before performing any timing operations, the chronograph hands must be reset to zero. If necessary, do this using pushbutton B. The crown and pushbuttons should not be pressed or otherwise handled under water. The pushbuttons must not be pressed or handled when the crown is pulled out, since this might de-index the chronograph hands. 69

29 Your chronograph enables you to measure the elapsed time (timing) and to add up various periods of time (totalizer). Contrary to the SPLIT function described hereafter, the movement does not continue timing when you stop the hands. Crown in position 1 (initial position) Pushbutton A: Chronograph START/STOP Starts or stops the central seconds hand and the counters. The movement ceases timing. Each new press will start or stop the chronograph hands. Pushbutton B: zero-reset Resets all chronograph hands. The central seconds hand must first have been stopped using pushbutton A. 70

30 TIMING INTERMEDIATE (SPLIT) TIMES When you activate the SPLIT function by pressing pushbutton B once the chronograph is activated, the chronograph hands stop to enable you to read off the elapsed time, while the movement continues the timing operation. Pressing pushbutton B once again makes the chronograph hands rapidly catch up with the time that has elapsed meanwhile. Crown in position 1 (initial position) Pushbutton A: Chronograph START Starts the central seconds hand and the counters. Pushbutton B: SPLIT The hands stop but the movement continues the timing operation. Intermediate or split-time readoff. Pushbutton B: catch-up The hands quickly catch up with the time elapsed. 71

31 Other split times may be timed so long as you continue pressing pushbutton B. Pushbutton A: Chronograph STOP The hands and the timing stop. Read-off of the last split time. Pushbutton B: zero-reset Resets all chronograph hands. 72

32 INDEXING THE CHRONOGRAPH HANDS IMPORTANT Your chronograph water-resistant to 10 bar may be equipped with a screw-lock crown. To adjust the chronograph hands, the crown must be unscrewed by turning it counter- clockwise between thumb and forefinger. After such an operation, screw the crown back in by pressing it and turning it clockwise. The crown and pushbuttons should not be pressed or otherwise handled under water. The pushbuttons must not be pressed or handled when the crown is pulled out, since this might de-index the chronograph hands. 73

33 After a battery change or exceptionally in case of a shock or exposure to a significant magnetic field, the chronograph hands may not return to their initial position. This minor issue may be resolved by following these instructions. Display with 1/10-second counter A short press on pushbutton A or B makes an incremental adjustment. Prolonged pressure keeps the hand turning so long as you do not release pushbutton A or B. Crown in position 3 (fully pulled-out position) Pushbutton A: adjusts the central seconds hand by successive presses. Pushbutton B: adjusts the 1/10-second counter hand by successive presses. Crown in position 2 (intermediate position) Pushbutton B: adjusts the 30-minute counter hand by successive presses. 74

34 Crown in position 1 (initial position) Screw the crown back in again by pushing it and turning it clockwise. Display with alarm function Crown in position 3 (fully pulled-out position) Press pushbuttons A and B simultaneously for at least 2 seconds. The central seconds hand turns 360 to signal that the adjustment mode is activated. A short press on pushbutton A makes an incremental adjustment. Prolonged pressure keeps the hand turning so long as you do not release pushbutton A. Pushbutton A: sets the central seconds hand. Pushbutton B: changes the hand to be adjusted. Pushbutton A: sets the 30-minute and 12-hour hands (the two hands are connected). Crown in position 1 (initial position) Push the crown back in to position 1 (initial position). 75

35 SET THE ALARM IMPORTANT The crown and pushbuttons should not be pressed or otherwise handled under water. The alarm cannot be set while the chronograph is in operation. 76

36 When the crown is in position 1 (initial position), the alarm subdial hands display the alarm time. When the crown is in position 3 (fully pulled-out position), the alarm subdial hands display the alarm reference time. 1. Setting the alarm reference time In parallel with the current time, the reference time serving as the basis for the alarm time turns in the background. It is thus vital to adjust the reference time to the current time after any adjustments of the latter. Crown in position 3 (fully pulled-out position) To set the reference time to the nearest second, pull the crown out to position 3 (fully pulled-out position) when the small seconds hand indicates 60 seconds. Press pushbutton B for at least 2 seconds. The alarm minutes hand moves 1 minute forwards to show that the adjustment mode is activated. A short press (less than 1 second) on pushbutton B makes minuteby-minute adjustments. 77

37 A medium-length press (1 to 2 seconds) on pushbutton B makes hourby-hour adjustments. A prolonged press (more than 2 seconds) keeps the hands turning so long as you do not release pushbutton B. Crown in position 1 (initial position) Push the crown back in to position 1 (initial position). 2. Setting the alarm time Crown in position 1 (initial position) After setting the reference time, keep the crown in position 1 (initial position). The alarm may be set a maximum of 12 hours prior to the required alarm time. Press pushbutton B for at least 2 seconds. The alarm minutes hand moves 1 minute forwards to signal that the adjustment mode is activated. 78

38 A short press (less than 1 second) on pushbutton B makes minuteby-minute adjustments. A prolonged press (more than 2 seconds) keeps the hands turning so long as you do not release pushbutton B. 3. Activating or deactivating the alarm Crown in position 1 (initial position) The alarm is activated or deactivated by a short press (less than 1 second) on pushbutton B. Two audible signals indicate that the alarm is activated. One audible signal indicates that the alarm is deactivated. When the alarm is activated, it will sound for a full 20 seconds. It will sound again every 2 minutes until you press pushbutton B. 79

39 ROTATING BEZEL FUNCTION IMPORTANT Your watch with a rotating bezel is a model intended for sports and leisure use. It may not under any circumstances be considered as a diving instrument for professional use. For this reason, it must never be used to check the duration of an underwater dive. You must always use equipment that is duly certified and specially designed for this purpose. 80

40 Your watch may be equipped with a unidirectional notched rotating bezel serving to measure the time elapsed since the start of your activity. At the start of the activity, turn the bezel counter- clockwise and place the starting index facing the minutes hand (figure 1). You can check the time elapsed at any time (figure 2). Figure 1 Figure 2 60-minute index 60-minute index minutes 81

41 HERMÈS, JANUARY 2017, PRINTED IN SWITZERLAND

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