The Mileposts of Morvern

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1 The Mileposts of Morvern Paula Martin Approaching Morvern from the Corran Ferry, one starts along the Parliamentary Road to Kinlochmoidart, built during the first two decades of the 19th century. Along it can be seen several granite milestones. One just before the turning at Inversanda says Strontian 8, Corran Ferry 7. Another before the turning left to at the head of Loch Sunart, says Strontian 2, Corran 13. The road via Kingairloch was half a mile shorter, and seems originally to have been the main road to from the Fort William or Oban direction, but the modern main road, running from the other end of Glen Tarbert, is wider, and may well by now have lost that extra half mile through realignments. Both roads have some survivors of a set of cast-iron mileposts (Tables 1 and 2). The posts are of a simple design, with no maker's name or date. They have two arms, angled to face the approaching traveller, each with one place-name and the distance to it. A set of a different design can be found on the old road from Drimnin to Doirlinn (Table 5). Without damage from modern traffic, these have survived well. After the two roads join, between 12 and 11 miles from, the set continues (Table 3). After the series continues to near the end of the public road (Table 4). One side still measures the distance from Corran, but the other arm gives the distance to Bonnavoulin (meaning, at the time they were erected, the post office above the pier at what we now call Drimnin). 22

2 How can these mileposts be dated? Milestones have been in use for a very long time, but probably increased in number as roads were turnpiked during the late- 18th and early-19th centuries, at which date cast-iron seems to have been preferred to stone. Many cast-iron examples in Scotland can be dated to the 1840s and 1850s, but on minor roads or in remote areas they tend to be later. In 1890 all public roads in Argyll were taken over by the new County Council, who may well have felt a need to erect markers on roads where they did not already exist. The first edition of the Ordnance Survey 6" to a mile (1:10,560) map, surveyed in the early 1870s, marks milestones (MS) in the locations of the present mileposts, on the main roads in Morvern. These roads were laid out between 1857 and The second edition, surveyed in 1897, notes most but not all of them as mileposts (MP). The most likely explanation is that the original milestones were replaced by mileposts in around 1897, and the surveyors caught the process not quite completed. This would fit well with the management of the roads being taken over by the County Council. No milestones or mileposts are shown on the maps on any of the minor roads, with one exception. The road from Drimnin to Doirlinn, where there was an inn and a ferry to Ardnamurchan, has a set, of different design. These mileposts have a maker's name, but no date. The design, however, matches some examples on Mull which bear the date This road was built in the 1870s. There are no mileposts marked on the 1897 map, but they were probably put up soon after that, when the road was (briefly) adopted by the County Council. The posts are numbered from the Doirlinn end, so might be associated with an attempt to restore or promote the ferry route from Glenborrodale. This design, produced by a foundry at Blaydon, near Newcastle, was used over a wide area. As well as examples on Mull, Seil and Luing, they can be seen in Ardnamurchan, and in Berwickshire and west Fife. Early cast-iron mileposts were usually individual castings. In Fife there are many cast-iron caps on stone posts, dating to before 1855, which use very attractive curly lettering, and every cap was individually cast. Later examples, however, look as though the basic post was mass-produced with the two place-names, and the numbers were added individually, as there are examples where numbers have become detached, as for instance the post just outside, which says Corran 1 where it should say 31. Roads in Morvern Old Pier built, and a section of road at Bonnavoulin Achranich to Caolas Ferry (private) Inversanda to Achagavel, Achagavel to Kiel, Kiel to Bonnavoulin, and Head of Loch Sunart to Achagavel. 1860s Road to Rahoy Crosben Road (Black Glen), and Achranich to Tearnait. c.1880 Drimnin to Doirlinn steamer pier and road link All public roads taken over by the County Council Road along the western shore of Loch Aline (private). pre-1914 The half-mile loop at Uileann was replaced. 23

3 Table 1. Inversanda to Achagavel All are marked as milestones on the Ordnance Survey 1:10,560 map of , and as mileposts on the OS 1:10,560 map of 1897, the 1:63,360 map of 1954 and the 1/25,000 map of No. Seen Grid Approximate location R/L L side R side Comments by loch R Corran R Corran Kilmalieu bay R [Corran 10] 22] after Kilmalieu R Corran near fish-trap R [Corran ] 20] narrow stretch R Corran Glengalmadale R Corran 531 Bridge estate road R Corran above Kingairloch R Corran 531 House end of forestry R Corran before Loch Uisge R Corran top end of Loch R Corran 553 Uisge Top of road R [Corran ] 12] Table 2. Head of Loch Sunart to Achagavel All but no. 18 are marked as milestones on the Ordnance Survey 1:10,560 map of On the OS 1:10,560 map of 1897 nos 15 and 16 are milestones but 14, 17, 18 and 19 mileposts. By the 1:63,360 map of is not marked, and the rest are mileposts. By the 1/25,000 map of , 16 and 19 are not marked. No. Seen Grid Location R/L L side R side Comments 14 Lochhead R [Corran 14½] 18] opposite Strontian R Corran 15½ 17 L arm broken Achleek R [Corran 16½] 16] Upper Liddesdale Cottage R Corran 17½ Allt na Meinne R Corran 18½ R [Corran 19½] 13] 24

4 Table 3. Achagavel to Kiel All are marked as milestones on the Ordnance Survey 1:10,560 map of , and as mileposts on the OS 1:10,560 map of 1897 and the 1:63,360 map of By the 1/25,000 map of and 28 are not marked. No. Seen Grid Location R/L L side R side Comments opposite Achagavel R Corran N of Beach R Corran S of Beach R Corran N of Uileann R [Corran 24] 8] 24 S of Uileann R [Corran 25] 7] E of Uladail R Corran W of Uladail R [Corran 27] 5] Claggan R Corran 28 4,? Larachbeg R Corran 29 3 slightly Kinlochaline R Corran 30 2 slightly? N of R Corran [3]1 1 number lost slightly? Table 4. Kiel to Bonnavoulin (former Post Office, above pier) All are marked as milestones on the Ordnance Survey 1:10,560 map of On the OS 1:10,560 map of 1897, are mileposts and milestones. They are all marked as mileposts on the 1:63,360 map of 1954 and the 1/25,000 map of No. Seen Grid Location L/R L side R side Comments Kiel L Corran 32 Bonnavoulin 10¼ relocated Achabeg R Corran 33 Bonnavoulin 9¼ Savary Bridge R [Corran 34] [Bonnavoulin 8¼] Fiunary Farm R Corran 35 Bonnavoulin 7¼ Fiunary caravans R Corran 36 Bonnavoulin 6¼ end of L arm broken R Corran 37 Bonnavoulin 5¼ Castle of the R Corran 38 Bonnavoulin 4¼ Dogs Killundine Bridge R [Corran 39] [Bonnavoulin 3¼] before Glenmorvern R Corran 40 Bonnavoulin 2¼ and set back below old church R Corran 41 Bonnavoulin 1¼ 25

5 Table 5. Doirlinn to Drimnin This set is not marked on the Ordnance Survey 1:10,560 map of , or the OS 1:10,560 map of 1897, or the 1:63,360 map of All but 41 are marked on the 1/25,000 map of No. Seen Grid Location L/R L side R side Comments Doirlinn L Drimnin 6¾ Dorlin = Druimbuidhe L Drimnin 5¾ Dorlin after Druimbuidhe Bridge L [Drimnin 4¾] [Dorlin 2] Portabhata L Drimnin Dorlin 3 3¾ before Auliston R Drimnin 2¾ Dorlin after Auliston L Drimnin Dorlin 5 1¾ behind Drimnin L Drimnin Dorlin 6 Ho. ¾ at road junction L Drimnin = Dorlin 6¾ missing 1997 has been While one can be sure if a milepost is in situ, it is much harder to be sure it is not. That is why these tables note whether a stone has been seen recently. The road from to Drimnin, for example, underwent major clearance of roadside vegetation in 2009, with the result that more mileposts are now visible. Hunting them is also complicated by the fact that having apparently been from the old road to the new in the early 1970s, some are no longer exactly a mile apart from each other. Coincidentally, after this paper was written, an article appeared in Milestones and Waymarkers, the journal of the Milestone Society, volume 3, 2009, 27 36, by Mervyn Benford, Ian Jolly and David Viner, who had separately visited the area in 2003, 2005 and 2008 respectively. I have included their observations for the few posts which I have not seen myself. 26

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