FOR PERSONAL USE. Shoreline Erosion BROWARD COUNTY ELEMENTARY SCIENCE BENCHMARK PLAN ACTIVITY ASSESSMENT OPPORTUNITIES. Grade 4 Quarter 1 Activity 9

Size: px
Start display at page:

Download "FOR PERSONAL USE. Shoreline Erosion BROWARD COUNTY ELEMENTARY SCIENCE BENCHMARK PLAN ACTIVITY ASSESSMENT OPPORTUNITIES. Grade 4 Quarter 1 Activity 9"

Transcription

1 activity 9 Shoreline Erosion BROWARD COUNTY ELEMENTARY SCIENCE BENCHMARK PLAN Grade 4 Quarter 1 Activity 9 SC.D The student knows that the surface of the Earth is in a continuous state of change as waves, weather, and shifts of the land constantly change and produce many new features. SC.D The student knows that some changes in the Earth s surface are due to slow processes and some changes are due to rapid processes. SC.H The student knows that a successful method to explore the natural world is to observe and record, and then analyze and communicate the results. SC.H The student knows that to work collaboratively, all team members should be free to reach, explain, and justify their own individual conclusions. SC.H The student knows that to compare and contrast observations and results is an essential skill in science. SC.H The student knows that a model of something is different from the real thing, but can be used to learn something about the real thing. SC.H The student knows that through the use of science processes and knowledge, people can solve problems, make decisions, and form new ideas. ACTIVITY ASSESSMENT OPPORTUNITIES The following suggestions are intended to help identify major concepts covered in the activity that may need extra reinforcement. The goal is to provide opportunities to assess student progress without creating the need for a separate, formal assessment session (or activity) for each of the 40 hands-on activities at this grade level. 1. Ask, Do tides affect erosion in rivers or streams? (Very slightly because there is less water to move; but, where rivers flow into an ocean, tides may have a small but noticeable effect.) What happens to shoreline erosion during the storm surge of a hurricane? Why? (Erosion is greatly increased due to more water moving, higher waves, more wind making waves both higher and moving them faster, the water moving farther inland, and so on.) broward county hands-on science Quarter 1 99

2 2. Use the Activity Sheet(s) to assess student understanding of the major concepts in the activity. In addition to the above assessment suggestions, the questions in bold and tasks that students perform throughout the activity provide opportunities to identify areas that may require additional review before proceeding further with the activity. 100 activity 9 Shoreline Erosion

3 activity 9 Shoreline Erosion OBJECTIVES Students investigate the erosion that occurs along a shoreline as a result of tidal and wave action. The students simulate the erosive effect of wave action in their stream tables compare the erosion caused by large and small waves predict and then observe the effects of a breakwater on shoreline erosion SCHEDULE About 30 minutes VOCABULARY breakwater tidal action wave MATERIALS For each student 1 Activity Sheet 9 1 pair safety goggles* For each team of four 1 container, 1-L 1 bag sand (from Activity 6) 1 stream table (from Activity 7) 1 tray, plastic For the class 1 roll aluminum foil 1 bag, plastic, resealable 1 block clay, modeling 1 pkg nylon mesh pebbles, assorted sizes* photographs of breakwaters (optional)* 1 pair scissors* 24 sticks, wooden water, tap* DSR Erosion *provided by the teacher PREPARATION Make a copy of Activity Sheet 9 for each student. At some point before the activity, you will need to go outdoors and collect several cups of assorted-sized pebbles for students to use in their breakwaters. Place the following items at a distribution station: a roll of aluminum foil, pebbles of assorted sizes, a package of nylon mesh, a pair of scissors, a block of modeling clay, and twenty-four wooden sticks (tongue depressors) Each team of four will need their stream table from Activity 7, a 1-L container filled with tap water, the sand they set out to dry on newspaper after Activity 6, a piece of modeling clay (to fill the hole in the stream table), a plastic tray, and access to the items at the distribution station. BACKGROUND INFORMATION About three-fourths of Earth s surface is covered by water, most of which is in the oceans. If this water were motionless, it would contain little force and have virtually broward county hands-on science Quarter 1 101

4 no effect on the shoreline. However, the water in oceans (and in very large lakes) is constantly in motion in the form of tidal action and waves. As the moon orbits our planet, it exerts a gravitational pull on the surface of the Earth. Although this pull is exerted on both land masses and oceans, only the water in the oceans is dramatically affected. The moon s gravitational pull causes the water to form a single mound of water that travels around the Earth, causing a periodic change in the surface level of the oceans. This phenomenon is called the tide. The energy in this tidal action is great, but because its speed is relatively slow and distributed over large expanses of water, it causes little erosion. However, as tides encounter the shoreline at areas with narrow inlets, such as rivers or streams, some of the water is forced upriver, changing the direction of the current so that it flows inland. This reversal of current causes erosion along the banks of the river. More important when considering shoreline erosion is the effect of the wind-driven waves. As storms travel across the ocean, the wind they generate sweeps across the water s surface. Some of the wind s energy is absorbed by the water, causing waves to form. Much of a wave s energy is below the surface of the water. As the wave rapidly approaches the shoreline, the energy is forced upward by the increasingly shallow depth of the water. The waves become steeper and then break on the beach. Breakwaters are artificial barriers constructed along the shoreline to absorb or deflect the energy of the breaking waves, thereby reducing the amount of erosion. In this activity, the students use their stream tables to observe shoreline erosion caused by waves. They then use materials to construct breakwaters and predict and observe their effectiveness. 102 activity 9 Shoreline Erosion Activity Sheet 9 Shoreline Erosion 1. How much sand was eroded by the small waves? (Use the grid for clues.) All of the sand that the small waves touched moved and eroded a little bit. 2. How much sand was eroded by the large waves? more than by small waves 3. Which size waves caused more erosion? The larger waves caused more erosion. 4. Draw your breakwater design below. Designs will vary. 5. Predict how effective your breakwater will be. Predictions will vary. 6. Record your observations of your breakwater s effectiveness. Observations will vary.

5 1 Guiding the Activity Ask, What are some of the factors that cause erosion along a shoreline? Write the word wave on the board. Ask, How do waves get their energy? Additional Information The constant force of waves breaking on the shoreline. Energy from the wind blowing across the surface of the water is absorbed by the water and forms waves. As a wave nears the shore, the increasingly shallow depth of the ocean floor forces the energy of the wave upward, steepening the wave until it breaks. 2 Ask, What are some factors that affect the size and strength of waves? Write the term tidal action on the board. If necessary, explain that tidal action is the regular rise and fall of the surface level of the oceans. Tell students that the gravitational pull of the moon is responsible for causing the tides. Explain to students that in this activity they will construct a shoreline in their stream tables to observe the erosion caused by waves. Distribute a copy of Activity Sheet 9 to each student. Each team of four will need their stream table from Activity 7, the approximately 6 lb of sand that they set out to dry after Activity 6, a 1-L container filled with tap water, a plastic tray, and a small wad of clay. Have each team plug the hole (in the grommet) in their stream table with a piece of clay and then add the sand to the other end of the stream table. Instruct the students to use their hands to smooth and gently slope the sand so that it covers two-thirds of the stream table. The speed and direction of the wind, whether it is high or low tide when the waves reach shore, how long the wind blows, and the distance of open water the wind blows across. Explain that although the majority of shoreline erosion is a result of the waves breaking on the beach, tidal action causes the breaking point of the waves along the shoreline to change, thereby increasing the total area of the shoreline subject to wave pounding. 3 Note: Unlike in previous experiments, the stream tables will not be elevated at one end during this experiment. broward county hands-on science Quarter 1 103

6 Guiding the Activity Additional Information 4 Instruct the students to pour water from the 1-L container into the empty end of their stream tables so that the water reaches the sand. Have the students dip one end of the plastic tray into the water in their stream table and move it slightly back and forth to create small waves (see Figure 9-1). 5 6 Have them record their observations on Activity Sheet 9 and then smooth the sand back to its original condition. Figure 9-1. Making waves. Have them repeat the wave action, this time increasing the size of the waves. Have them answer questions 2 and 3 on the activity sheet. Ask, How did the erosion caused by large waves differ from that caused by small waves? Ask, What can we do to reduce the amount of shoreline erosion caused by waves? 104 activity 9 Shoreline Erosion sand stream table Students should use the grid in the bottom of their stream table for clues as to how much sand has eroded. water tray The waves should not be so large that they overflow the stream table. Large waves have more volume and more force than small waves and therefore caused more erosion.

7 7 8 Guiding the Activity Write the word breakwater on the board and distribute the photographs of different types of breakwaters. Explain that breakwaters are artificial barriers positioned offshore to deflect or reduce the energy of the waves as they approach the shoreline. In doing so, they limit shoreline erosion. Turn the students attention to the materials that are available at the distribution station: modeling clay, pebbles, wooden sticks, aluminum foil, and nylon mesh. Tell them that they are to design a breakwater and that any of these materials can be used in their design. Have them predict the effectiveness of their breakwaters and record their predictions on Activity Sheet 9. Once they have finished designing their breakwaters and recording their predictions, have the students build them, perform the wave action experiment again, and record their observations. After everyone has finished experimenting and recording, ask, How effective were your designs? Have the students with the most effective breakwaters draw their designs on the board and explain why they were so successful. Ask, What are some of the drawbacks of the materials used in your breakwater construction? Ask, From what you have observed, is there any way to completely stop shoreline erosion caused by waves? As appropriate, read or review page 10 from the Delta Science Reader Erosion. Additional Information The modeling clay can be used to attach breakwater materials to one another and to the stream table. Tell students to draw their breakwaters on their activity sheets. Remind students to use the grid in the bottom of their stream table for clues as to how much sand has eroded. Wood rots, rocks and other earth materials erode, metal rusts, and nylon mesh can ensnare living organisms. No. The strength and magnitude of the water is too great. broward county hands-on science Quarter 1 105

8 R EINFORCEMENT Have the students repeat the experiment to improve on their breakwater designs. Assessment Opportunity This Reinforcement also may be used as an ongoing assessment of students understanding of science concepts and skills. SCIENCE JOURNALS Have students place their completed activity sheets in their science journals. 106 activity 9 Shoreline Erosion C LEANUP Tell students to carefully tip and drain the water from their stream tables into the 1-L containers, then discard the water. Tell them to leave the sand, grid, and clay-filled grommet plug in each table, and to stack them for use in Activity 10. Have the students dismantle the breakwaters and discard all of the materials except the clay and the wooden sticks. The clay should be lumped together and placed in the reclosable bag. Rinse and air dry the other materials and return them to the kit.

9 Connections Science Extension The particles of water in a wave do not move forward with the wave but move upward and downward in a circular motion. Demonstrate this by having two students stretch a long rope along the floor. Then one student should move his or her end of the rope up and down repeatedly. Students will see waves move along the rope. Point out that the waves move forward but the rope itself moves only up and down. If you have a long container such as an aquarium or a wallpapering trough, you also could demonstrate wave action by floating small pieces of cork or aluminum foil on the surface of the water and pushing the water forward with a piece of cardboard at one end to form waves. Students will observe that the cork or foil pieces move up and down in place as the waves move along the length of the container. Encourage students to research wave motion and the terms that scientists use to describe the characteristics of waves. Such terms include crest, trough, wave height, wavelength, and period (the length of time for a wave to pass a given point). Science and Math Tell students that as waves approach the shore or any underwater object in their path, they begin to break when their height is 0.7 times the depth of the water, or when the water depth is 1.5 times the height of the waves. Create (or ask students to create) math problems based on these figures for the class to solve. For example, at what water depth will a 6-foot-high wave begin to break? (6 feet 1.5 = 9-foot water depth) If waves are beginning to break where the water is 20 feet deep, how high are the waves? (20 feet 0.7 = 14-foot wave height) Science and Language Arts Suggest that students write poems comparing a beach or coast on a calm day and during a storm. If students have not personally observed coastal wave action, discuss pictures they have seen on TV, including news reports of coastal storms. Encourage students to use words and phrases imaginatively to create images of the scene in listeners and readers minds. Give volunteers an opportunity to read their poems aloud. Science and Social Studies If global warming were to melt some of the Earth s water now locked in ice caps and glaciers, sea level would rise perhaps submerging major cities located along the Atlantic and Pacific coasts and in the Great Lakes region. Have students research the elevation of the downtown area of major U.S. cities to see how much of a rise in sea level would cause flooding of each city. Science, Technology, and Society Ask students to research and report on the various types of structures that are built to prevent or reduce shore erosion groins, jetties, bulkheads, breakwaters, revetments, and seawalls. Encourage students to make simple models of these structures. In areas directly affected by coastal storms, homes can be damaged or destroyed by battering waves and by the erosion of land. Often the homes are repaired or rebuilt, only to be damaged again in another storm. Ask students to research this issue and then debate whether rebuilding should be allowed in such areas. broward county hands-on science Quarter 1 107

10 108 activity 9 Shoreline Erosion

Chapter 10 Lecture Outline. The Restless Oceans

Chapter 10 Lecture Outline. The Restless Oceans Chapter 10 Lecture Outline The Restless Oceans Focus Question 10.1 How does the Coriolis effect influence ocean currents? The Ocean s Surface Circulation Ocean currents Masses of water that flow from one

More information

page - Laboratory Exercise #5 Shoreline Processes

page - Laboratory Exercise #5 Shoreline Processes page - Laboratory Exercise #5 Shoreline Processes Section A Shoreline Processes: Overview of Waves The ocean s surface is influenced by three types of motion (waves, tides and surface currents). Shorelines

More information

OECS Regional Engineering Workshop September 29 October 3, 2014

OECS Regional Engineering Workshop September 29 October 3, 2014 B E A C H E S. M A R I N A S. D E S I G N. C O N S T R U C T I O N. OECS Regional Engineering Workshop September 29 October 3, 2014 Coastal Erosion and Sea Defense: Introduction to Coastal Dynamics David

More information

Chapter. The Dynamic Ocean

Chapter. The Dynamic Ocean Chapter The Dynamic Ocean An ocean current is the mass of ocean water that flows from one place to another. 16.1 The Composition of Seawater Surface Circulation Surface Currents Surface currents are movements

More information

LAB: WHERE S THE BEACH

LAB: WHERE S THE BEACH Name: LAB: WHERE S THE BEACH Introduction When you build a sandcastle on the beach, you don't expect it to last forever. You spread out your towel to sunbathe, but you know you can't stay in the same spot

More information

Unit 11 Lesson 2 How Does Ocean Water Move? Copyright Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company

Unit 11 Lesson 2 How Does Ocean Water Move? Copyright Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company Unit 11 Lesson 2 How Does Ocean Water Move? Catch a Wave A wave is the up-and-down movement of surface water. Catch a Wave Catch a Wave (wave effects) Surface waves are caused by wind pushing against

More information

The Composition of Seawater

The Composition of Seawater The Composition of Seawater Salinity Salinity is the total amount of solid material dissolved in water. Most of the salt in seawater is sodium chloride, common table salt. Element Percent Element Percent

More information

UNDERSTANDING STORM SURGE

UNDERSTANDING STORM SURGE The Education Program at the New Jersey Sea Grant Consortium 22 Magruder Road, Fort Hancock, NJ 07732 (732) 872-1300 www.njseagrant.org UNDERSTANDING STORM SURGE ACTIVITY 6 SURGE OF THE STORM http://secoora.org/classroom/virtual_hurricane/surge_of_the_storm>

More information

Lecture Outlines PowerPoint. Chapter 15 Earth Science, 12e Tarbuck/Lutgens

Lecture Outlines PowerPoint. Chapter 15 Earth Science, 12e Tarbuck/Lutgens Lecture Outlines PowerPoint Chapter 15 Earth Science, 12e Tarbuck/Lutgens 2009 Pearson Prentice Hall This work is protected by United States copyright laws and is provided solely for the use of instructors

More information

Environmental Geology Chapter 11 COASTAL PROCESSES and RELATED HAZARDS

Environmental Geology Chapter 11 COASTAL PROCESSES and RELATED HAZARDS Environmental Geology Chapter 11 COASTAL PROCESSES and RELATED HAZARDS Introduction >50% of world population concentrated in the coastal zones ~75% of U.S. population living in coastal states Coastal hazard

More information

Oceans in Motion: Waves and Tides

Oceans in Motion: Waves and Tides Oceans in Motion: Waves and Tides Waves Waves are among the most familiar features in the ocean. All waves work similarly, so although we are talking about ocean waves here, the same information would

More information

Directed Reading. Section: Ocean Currents. a(n). FACTORS THAT AFFECT SURFACE CURRENTS

Directed Reading. Section: Ocean Currents. a(n). FACTORS THAT AFFECT SURFACE CURRENTS Skills Worksheet Directed Reading Section: Ocean Currents 1. A horizontal movement of water in a well-defined pattern is called a(n). 2. What are two ways that oceanographers identify ocean currents? 3.

More information

Shorelines Earth - Chapter 20 Stan Hatfield Southwestern Illinois College

Shorelines Earth - Chapter 20 Stan Hatfield Southwestern Illinois College Shorelines Earth - Chapter 20 Stan Hatfield Southwestern Illinois College The Shoreline A Dynamic Interface The shoreline is a dynamic interface (common boundary) among air, land, and the ocean. The shoreline

More information

Deep-water orbital waves

Deep-water orbital waves What happens when waves approach shore? Deep-water orbital waves Fig. 9.16, p. 211 Wave motion is influenced by water depth and shape of the shoreline wave buildup zone surf zone beach Wave base deepwater

More information

The Surge of the Storm By Margaret Olsen and Katie Greganti

The Surge of the Storm By Margaret Olsen and Katie Greganti The Surge of the Storm By Margaret Olsen and Katie Greganti Grade Level: 5-12 Type of Activity: Hands on Focus Question: How does a hurricane s storm surge of a hurricane affect the low-lying areas along

More information

Modeling Beach Erosion

Modeling Beach Erosion Ocean Lecture & Educator s Night May 16, 2012 Modeling Beach Erosion Below is an overview of the activity Modeling Beach Erosion (New Jersey Sea Grant Consortium, Education Program) to incorporate information

More information

Imagine that you can see a side view of a wave as it approaches a beach. Describe how the wave changes as the wave approaches the beach.

Imagine that you can see a side view of a wave as it approaches a beach. Describe how the wave changes as the wave approaches the beach. Geology 101 Name Reading Guide for Ch. 19: Shores and Coastal Processes (p. 612) Waves, Currents, and Tides (p. 614) Waves and Currents (p. 614) Imagine that you can see a side view of a wave as it approaches

More information

OCN 201 Tides. Tsunamis, Tides and other long waves

OCN 201 Tides. Tsunamis, Tides and other long waves OCN 201 Tides Tsunamis, Tides and other long waves Storm surges Caused by winds and low atmospheric pressure associated with large storms Can raise sea surface by up to 25 ft, bottom contours magnify effect

More information

The Movement of Ocean Water. Currents

The Movement of Ocean Water. Currents The Movement of Ocean Water Currents Ocean Current movement of ocean water that follows a regular pattern influenced by: weather Earth s rotation position of continents Surface current horizontal movement

More information

Chapter 22, Section 1 - Ocean Currents. Section Objectives

Chapter 22, Section 1 - Ocean Currents. Section Objectives Chapter 22, Section 1 - Ocean Currents Section Objectives Intro Surface Currents Factors Affecting Ocean Currents Global Wind Belts (you should draw and label a diagram of the global wind belts) The Coriolis

More information

DUNE STABILIZATION AND BEACH EROSION

DUNE STABILIZATION AND BEACH EROSION DUNE STABILIZATION AND BEACH EROSION CAPE HATTERAS NATIONAL SEASHORE NORTH CAROLINA ROBERT DOLAN PAUL GODFREY U. S. DEPARTMENT OF INTERIOR NATIONAL PARK SERVICE OFFICE OF NATURAL SCIENCE WASHINGTON, D.

More information

Overview. Beach Features. Coastal Regions. Other Beach Profile Features. CHAPTER 10 The Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes.

Overview. Beach Features. Coastal Regions. Other Beach Profile Features. CHAPTER 10 The Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes. Overview CHAPTER 10 The Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes Coastal regions constantly change. The beach is a dominant coastal feature. Wave activity continually modifies the beach and coastal areas.

More information

Oceans - Laboratory 12

Oceans - Laboratory 12 Oceans - Laboratory 12 (Name) How do ocean waves form? All waves are disturbances of a fluid medium through which energy is moved (Davis, 1997). Ocean waves travel on the interface between oceans and the

More information

Vanishing Coast: Erosion

Vanishing Coast: Erosion Vanishing Coast: Erosion Overview: Students learn about erosion by observing two classroom demonstrations and listening to an Elder share local history. Objectives: The student will: identify erosion from

More information

The movement of ocean water is a powerful thing. Waves created

The movement of ocean water is a powerful thing. Waves created 16. Waves and Tides Section 16. 1 FOCUS Key Concepts From where do ocean waves obtain their energy? What three factors affect the characteristics of a wave? How does energy move through a wave? What force

More information

Chapter 12: Coasts (after a brief review of Tides)

Chapter 12: Coasts (after a brief review of Tides) Chapter 12: Coasts (after a brief review of Tides) 1 Questions from previous classes: What happens when a wave meets a current? wave = people walking current = bus If wave goes with the current, the wave

More information

Fast or Slow? BROWARD COUNTY ELEMENTARY SCIENCE BENCHMARK PLAN. SC.C The student understands that different things move at different speeds.

Fast or Slow? BROWARD COUNTY ELEMENTARY SCIENCE BENCHMARK PLAN. SC.C The student understands that different things move at different speeds. activity 40 Fast or Slow? BROWARD COUNTY ELEMENTARY SCIENCE BENCHMARK PLAN Grade K Quarter 4 Activity 40 SC.C.1.1.1 The student understands that different things move at different speeds. SC.C.1.1.2 The

More information

Different Size, Same Shape

Different Size, Same Shape activity 3 Different Size, Same Shape OBJECTIVES Students experiment with objects of the same shape and material but of different sizes, in order to discover whether size is a factor that affects buoyancy.

More information

Reading Material. Inshore oceanography, Anikouchine and Sternberg The World Ocean, Prentice-Hall

Reading Material. Inshore oceanography, Anikouchine and Sternberg The World Ocean, Prentice-Hall Reading Material Inshore oceanography, Anikouchine and Sternberg The World Ocean, Prentice-Hall BEACH PROCESSES AND COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS COASTAL FEATURES Cross section Map view Terminology for Coastal

More information

Chapter - Oceans and Coasts

Chapter - Oceans and Coasts Chapter - Oceans and Coasts Discussion: What do oceans contribute to the environment of Earth? How do Earth s major systems relate to the oceans? Oceans and Coasts Oceans are important - Thermal regulation

More information

What is a wave? Even here the wave more or less keeps it s shape and travelled at a constant speed. YouTube. mexicanwave.mov

What is a wave? Even here the wave more or less keeps it s shape and travelled at a constant speed. YouTube. mexicanwave.mov Waves What is a wave? Waves transmit a disturbance / energy from one part of a material to another. The energy is transmitted without substantial movement of the material. Waves occur in lots of places,

More information

Organize information about waves. Differentiate two main types of waves.

Organize information about waves. Differentiate two main types of waves. Lesson 1 Waves Scan Lesson 1. Read the lesson titles and bold words. Look at the pictures. Identify three facts you discovered about waves. Record your facts in your Science Journal. What are waves? Organize

More information

Garrett McNamara, Portugal, 30 Jan What is a wave?

Garrett McNamara, Portugal, 30 Jan What is a wave? Waves Garrett McNamara, Portugal, 30 Jan 2013 What is a wave? Waves transmit a disturbance / energy from one part of a material to another. The energy is transmitted without substantial movement of the

More information

Chapter 20 Lecture. Earth: An Introduction to Physical Geology. Eleventh Edition. Shorelines. Tarbuck and Lutgens Pearson Education, Inc.

Chapter 20 Lecture. Earth: An Introduction to Physical Geology. Eleventh Edition. Shorelines. Tarbuck and Lutgens Pearson Education, Inc. Chapter 20 Lecture Earth: An Introduction to Physical Geology Eleventh Edition Shorelines Tarbuck and Lutgens The Shoreline: A Dynamic Interface The Coastal Zone The shoreline is constantly modified by

More information

The Case of the Disappearing Shoreline

The Case of the Disappearing Shoreline Name The Case of the Disappearing Shoreline Humans change the earth's climate in many ways. One change is the increase of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere. As we burn more fossil fuels, we release more

More information

Earth Science Chapter 16 Section 3 Review

Earth Science Chapter 16 Section 3 Review Name: Class: Date: Earth Science Chapter 16 Section 3 Review Multiple Choice Identify the choice that best completes the statement or answers the question. 1. The movement of water that parallels the shore

More information

Earth s oceans covers 71 % _ of the planet s surface. In reality, Earth s ocean waters are all. interconnected as part of a single large global ocean.

Earth s oceans covers 71 % _ of the planet s surface. In reality, Earth s ocean waters are all. interconnected as part of a single large global ocean. Ocean Motion Met 101: Introduction to the World's Oceans Produced by The COMET Program Geography: Name Pd. Earth s oceans covers 71 % _ of the planet s surface. In reality, Earth s ocean waters are all

More information

Oceans and Coasts. Chapter 18

Oceans and Coasts. Chapter 18 Oceans and Coasts Chapter 18 Exploring the oceans The ocean floor Sediments thicken and the age of the seafloor increases from ridge to shore The continental shelf off the northeast United States Constituent

More information

Name Class Date. Use the terms from the following list to complete the sentences below. Each term may be used only once. Some terms may not be used.

Name Class Date. Use the terms from the following list to complete the sentences below. Each term may be used only once. Some terms may not be used. Assessment Chapter Test B The Movement of Ocean Water USING KEY TERMS Use the terms from the following list to complete the sentences below. Each term may be used only once. Some terms may not be used.

More information

STATUS REPORT FOR THE SUBMERGED REEF BALL TM ARTIFICIAL REEF SUBMERGED BREAKWATER BEACH STABILIZATION PROJECT FOR THE GRAND CAYMAN MARRIOTT HOTEL

STATUS REPORT FOR THE SUBMERGED REEF BALL TM ARTIFICIAL REEF SUBMERGED BREAKWATER BEACH STABILIZATION PROJECT FOR THE GRAND CAYMAN MARRIOTT HOTEL August 23 STATUS REPORT FOR THE SUBMERGED REEF BALL TM ARTIFICIAL REEF SUBMERGED BREAKWATER BEACH STABILIZATION PROJECT FOR THE GRAND CAYMAN MARRIOTT HOTEL performed by Lee E. Harris, Ph.D., P.E. Consulting

More information

Our Council s Own: Oceanography Cadette/Senior/Ambassador Badge

Our Council s Own: Oceanography Cadette/Senior/Ambassador Badge Our Council s Own: Oceanography Cadette/Senior/Ambassador Badge Oceanography: The science that deals with oceans, the delimitation of their extent and depth, the physics and chemistry of their water, marine

More information

Shore - place where ocean meets land Coast - refers to the larger zone affected by the processes that occur at this boundary.

Shore - place where ocean meets land Coast - refers to the larger zone affected by the processes that occur at this boundary. Waves, Beaches, and Coasts Shore - place where ocean meets land Coast - refers to the larger zone affected by the processes that occur at this boundary. Waves: energy moving through water The height of

More information

Waves, Light, and Sound

Waves, Light, and Sound CHAPTER 14 Waves, Light, and Sound LESSON 1 Waves What do you think? Read the two statements below and decide whether you agree or disagree with them. Place an A in the Before column if you agree with

More information

Waters rise and fall in tides.

Waters rise and fall in tides. Page 1 of 5 KEY ONEPT Waters rise and fall in tides. BEFORE, you learned Wind provides the energy to form waves in the ocean Ocean waves change near shore The ocean is a global body of water NOW, you will

More information

INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL ENGINEERING

INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL ENGINEERING The University of the West Indies Organization of American States PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT PROGRAMME: COASTAL INFRASTRUCTURE DESIGN, CONSTRUCTION AND MAINTENANCE A COURSE IN COASTAL DEFENSE SYSTEMS I CHAPTER

More information

General Coastal Notes + Landforms! 1

General Coastal Notes + Landforms! 1 General Coastal Notes + Landforms! 1 Types of Coastlines: Type Description Primary Coast which is essentially in the same condition when sea level stabilized Coastline after the last ice age, younger.

More information

Ocean Motion Notes. Chapter 13 & 14

Ocean Motion Notes. Chapter 13 & 14 Ocean Motion Notes Chapter 13 & 14 What is a Wave? Wave: movement of energy through a body of water How are Waves Caused? Caused mostly by wind Wind blowing on the water transmits energy to the water Size

More information

COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS. 454 lecture 12

COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS. 454 lecture 12 COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS Repeated movement of sediment & water constructs a beach profile reflecting the balance between average daily or seasonal wave forces and resistance of landmass to wave action Coasts

More information

BEACH PROCESSES AND COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS

BEACH PROCESSES AND COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS BEACH PROCESSES AND COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS COASTAL FEATURES Cross section Map view TOPICS: Terminology Waves Beach Morphology Barriers Coastal Migration Tides Tidal Flats and Marshes Sediment Budgets Human

More information

WIND SPEED LENGTH OF TIME WIND BLOWS (Duration) DISTANCE OVER WHICH IT BLOWS (Fetch)

WIND SPEED LENGTH OF TIME WIND BLOWS (Duration) DISTANCE OVER WHICH IT BLOWS (Fetch) WAVES Up and down movement of ocean surface Transportation of energy across the water over vast distances If not stopped by anything, waves can travel entire oceans Size and speed depend upon: WIND SPEED

More information

OCEANS. Main Ideas. Lesson 2: Ocean Currents Ocean Currents help distribute heat around Earth.

OCEANS. Main Ideas. Lesson 2: Ocean Currents Ocean Currents help distribute heat around Earth. Oceans Chapter 10 OCEANS Main Ideas Lesson 2: Ocean Currents Ocean Currents help distribute heat around Earth. Lesson 3: The Ocean Shore The shore is shaped by the movement of water and sand. OCEANS SO

More information

1 Shoreline Erosion and Deposition

1 Shoreline Erosion and Deposition CHAPTER 12 1 Shoreline Erosion and Deposition SECTION Agents of Erosion and Deposition BEFORE YOU READ After you read this section, you should be able to answer these questions: What is a shoreline? How

More information

Coasts. 1. Coastal Processes. 1.1 Coastal erosion. 1.2 Sediment transport. Coastal Processes and Landforms. i. Hydraulic action

Coasts. 1. Coastal Processes. 1.1 Coastal erosion. 1.2 Sediment transport. Coastal Processes and Landforms. i. Hydraulic action Coasts Coastal Processes and Landforms 1. Coastal Processes 1.1 Coastal erosion i. Hydraulic action When waves strike against a rock surface, the waves trap air in the rock joints. This air is compressed

More information

Coastal management has lagged behind the growth in population leading to problems with pollution

Coastal management has lagged behind the growth in population leading to problems with pollution Fifty percent of the population of the industrialized world lives within 100 km of a coast. Coastal management has lagged behind the growth in population leading to problems with pollution and natural

More information

The ocean water is dynamic. Its physical

The ocean water is dynamic. Its physical CHAPTER MOVEMENTS OF OCEAN WATER The ocean water is dynamic. Its physical characteristics like temperature, salinity, density and the external forces like of the sun, moon and the winds influence the movement

More information

Name Class Date. What is a wave? How do waves form? How are transverse and longitudinal waves different?

Name Class Date. What is a wave? How do waves form? How are transverse and longitudinal waves different? CHAPTER 15 1 Types of Waves SECTION Waves KEY IDEAS As you read this section, keep these questions in mind: What is a wave? How do waves form? How are transverse and longitudinal waves different? What

More information

Nearshore Sediment Transport What influences the loss of sediment on Beaches? - Waves - Winds - Tidal Currents - River discharge - Runoff

Nearshore Sediment Transport What influences the loss of sediment on Beaches? - Waves - Winds - Tidal Currents - River discharge - Runoff Tides & Beaches Nearshore Sediment Transport What influences the loss of sediment on Beaches? - Waves - Winds - Tidal Currents - River discharge - Runoff Oceans Ocean Topography Physical Structure of the

More information

Define the key terms: - Abrasion - Attrition - Hydraulic action - Solution. Y11 Coasts

Define the key terms: - Abrasion - Attrition - Hydraulic action - Solution. Y11 Coasts Define the key terms: - Abrasion - Attrition - Hydraulic action - Solution Abrasion caused by waves picking up material which is forced against the cliff face wearing it away Attrition where stones and

More information

Ocean Waves. Capillary. Gravity. Wind generated. Tides Tsunamis Seiches

Ocean Waves. Capillary. Gravity. Wind generated. Tides Tsunamis Seiches Ocean Waves Capillary Wind generated Gravity Tides Tsunamis Seiches Capillary waves are driven by the surface tension produced by electrically polarized water molecule San Pedro Lighthouse Waves are alternate

More information

Full STEAM Ahead: Waves. Version 1 25 April 2018

Full STEAM Ahead: Waves. Version 1 25 April 2018 Full STEAM Ahead: Waves Version 1 25 April 2018 Full STEAM Ahead! Welcome to Full STEAM Ahead! Today you will be experimenting with the physics of waves. This is a directed and self-directed, self-paced

More information

3.9 FROM ISLANDS TO ATOLLS

3.9 FROM ISLANDS TO ATOLLS 3.9 1 3.9 FROM ISLANDS TO ATOLLS OBJECTIVES The students Listen to a description of the formation of volcanic islands, fringing reefs, barrier reefs, and atolls. Observe and participate in a simulation

More information

Tides Unit III: Real Tides (2 pts)

Tides Unit III: Real Tides (2 pts) T. James Noyes, El Camino College Tides Unit III: Real Tides (Topic 7A-3) page 1 Name: Section: Tides Unit III: Real Tides (2 pts) Real Tides Real tides can differ significantly from the predictions of

More information

Water on Earth. How do oceans relate to weather and the atmosphere? Solar Radiation and Convection Currents

Water on Earth. How do oceans relate to weather and the atmosphere? Solar Radiation and Convection Currents Earth is often called the Blue Planet because so much of its surface (about 71%) is covered by water. Of all the water on Earth, about 96.5% is held in the world s oceans. As you can imagine, these oceans

More information

Beach Profiles: Monitoring Sea Level Rise. Student Activity Sheet. Name Date Class

Beach Profiles: Monitoring Sea Level Rise. Student Activity Sheet. Name Date Class Beach Profiles: Monitoring Sea Level Rise Student Activity Sheet Name Date Class A shoreline is the area where the water and land meet. This is where we find beach: areas where sediments (sand or other

More information

Waves. Unit 14. Why are waves so important? In this Unit, you will learn: Key words. Previously PHYSICS 305

Waves. Unit 14. Why are waves so important? In this Unit, you will learn: Key words. Previously PHYSICS 305 Previously From Page 288 Sound waves travel through the air from a vibrating source. From Page 294 Light can travel through empty space. Unit 14 Waves Why are waves so important? We can use the idea of

More information

4/20/17. #31 - Coastal Erosion. Coastal Erosion - Overview

4/20/17. #31 - Coastal Erosion. Coastal Erosion - Overview Writing Assignment Due Monday by 11:59 pm #31 - Coastal Erosion Beach front property! Great View! Buy now at a great price! See main class web pages for detailed instructions Essays will be submitted in

More information

170 points. 38 points In your textbook, read about modern oceanography. For each item write the word that meets the description.

170 points. 38 points In your textbook, read about modern oceanography. For each item write the word that meets the description. Ch 15 Earth s Oceans SECTION 15.1 An Overview of Oceans 38 points In your textbook, read about modern oceanography. For each item write the word that meets the description. (5 points) 1. German research

More information

Marginal Marine Environments

Marginal Marine Environments Marginal Marine Environments Delta: discrete shoreline protuberances formed where rivers enter oceans, semi-enclosed seas, lakes or lagoons and supply sediment more rapidly than it can be redistributed

More information

STUDENT PACKET # 10. Vocabulary: condensation, convection, convection current, land breeze, sea breeze

STUDENT PACKET # 10. Vocabulary: condensation, convection, convection current, land breeze, sea breeze STUDENT PACKET # 10 Name: Date: Student Exploration: Coastal Winds and Clouds Big Idea 7: Earth Systems and Patterns SC.6.E.7.4 Differentiate and show interactions among the geosphere, hydrosphere, cryosphere,

More information

Natural Bridges Field Trip Activity

Natural Bridges Field Trip Activity Natural Bridges Field Trip Activity This is due in class on MONDAY- March 1 - not in sections! Name TA: NOTE ON THE GRADING OF THIS ASSIGNMENT: Many of the questions below (especially in the tidepool part)

More information

consulting engineers and scientists

consulting engineers and scientists consulting engineers and scientists Coastal Processes Presented by: January 9, 2015 Varoujan Hagopian, P.E. F.ASCE Senior Consultant, Waterfront Engineer Living Shoreline Workshop Lets Remember Why We

More information

4/20/17. #30 - Coastlines - General Principles Coastlines - Overview

4/20/17. #30 - Coastlines - General Principles Coastlines - Overview Writing Assignment Due one week from today by 11:59 pm See main class web pages for detailed instructions Essays will be submitted in Illinois Compass (instructions later) Pick one: Earthquakes, tsunamis,

More information

Ripple Tank Exploring the Properties of Waves Using a Ripple Tank

Ripple Tank Exploring the Properties of Waves Using a Ripple Tank Exploring the Properties of Waves Using a The ripple tank is a shallow, glass-bottomed container that is filled with water to a depth of 1 or 2 centimeters. There is a light source that is placed above

More information

Deep Water Currents Lab

Deep Water Currents Lab Deep Water Currents Lab Background: Anyone visiting the seashore is struck by the constant motion of water traveling on the surface of the ocean in the form of waves. But beneath the ocean's surface, water

More information

What are Waves? Earthquake. Waving flags. Vocal Cords Vibrate

What are Waves? Earthquake. Waving flags. Vocal Cords Vibrate Waves Ch. 10 What are Waves? All waves are movement of energy through a medium (air, rock, water) Series of vibrations or undulations in a medium Wave types: ocean, sound, light, seismic Vocal Cords Vibrate

More information

Anatomy of Coastal Regions

Anatomy of Coastal Regions The Coast I. BEACH ANATOMY Anatomy of Coastal Regions Terms for different parts of beaches and coastal regions Are all about ENERGY- ie, where the ocean s energy Mostly through tides and waves, and shape

More information

MAR 110 LECTURE #22 Standing Waves and Tides

MAR 110 LECTURE #22 Standing Waves and Tides 27 October 2007 MAR110_Lec22_standing Waves_tides_27oct07.doc 1 MAR 110 LECTURE #22 Standing Waves and Tides Coastal Zone Beach Profile Figure 22.1 Beach Profile Summer Onshore Sand Transport Breaking

More information

Earthquake Waves. Purpose: To give students a visual example, using a slinky, of how an energy wave propagates through the Earth.

Earthquake Waves. Purpose: To give students a visual example, using a slinky, of how an energy wave propagates through the Earth. Earthquake Waves Grades 4 & 5 Standards: Follows California Earth Science Standards for grades 4 & 5 Purpose: To give students a visual example, using a slinky, of how an energy wave propagates through

More information

Essentials of Oceanography Eleventh Edition

Essentials of Oceanography Eleventh Edition Chapter Chapter 1 10 Clickers Lecture Essentials of Oceanography Eleventh Edition The Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes Alan P. Trujillo Harold V. Thurman Chapter Overview Coastal regions have distinct

More information

ALTERNATIVES FOR COASTAL STORM DAMAGE MITIGATION

ALTERNATIVES FOR COASTAL STORM DAMAGE MITIGATION ALTERNATIVES FOR COASTAL STORM DAMAGE MITIGATION Dave Basco Old Dominion University, Norfolk, Virginia, USA National Park Service Photo STRUCTURAL (changes to natural, physical system) hardening (seawalls,

More information

Coastal Zones. Coastal Zones

Coastal Zones. Coastal Zones Page 1 of 15 EENS 3050 Tulane University Natural Disasters Prof. Stephen A. Nelson Coastal Zones Coastal Zones A coastal zone is the interface between the land and water. These zones are important because

More information

Density-Driven Currents

Density-Driven Currents Density-Driven Currents Objective To demonstrate density differences that exist in open ocean and coastal water masses, and how these differences drive currents. Correlations National Science Education

More information

Lee E. Harris, Ph.D., P.E. Assoc. Professor of Ocean Engineering. Doug Bowlus and Ashley Naimaster Ocean Engineering Graduate Students

Lee E. Harris, Ph.D., P.E. Assoc. Professor of Ocean Engineering. Doug Bowlus and Ashley Naimaster Ocean Engineering Graduate Students FLORIDA TECH OCEAN ENGINEERING PROFESSOR LEE HARRIS AND HIS GRADUATE STUDENTS ASSIST WITH POST-HURRICANE IVAN CORAL REEF RESTORATION IN THE CAYMAN ISLANDS Lee E. Harris, Ph.D., P.E. Assoc. Professor of

More information

TITLE: North Carolina s Changing Shorelines. KEYWORDS: erosion - shorelines - mapping - sustainability

TITLE: North Carolina s Changing Shorelines. KEYWORDS: erosion - shorelines - mapping - sustainability UNC Coastal Studies Institute Teacher Resources 1 TITLE: North Carolina s Changing Shorelines KEYWORDS: erosion - shorelines - mapping - sustainability Changing shorelines impact coastal infrastructure.

More information

Shorelines Earth Chapter 20 Chapter 20 Shorelines The Shoreline: A Dynamic Interface Cape Cod and Point Reyes Hurricane Sandy

Shorelines Earth Chapter 20 Chapter 20 Shorelines The Shoreline: A Dynamic Interface Cape Cod and Point Reyes Hurricane Sandy 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 Shorelines Earth Chapter 20 Chapter 20 Shorelines The Shoreline: A Dynamic Interface The interface is the common boundary where different parts of a system interact. The Coastal

More information

Duckies have been found in Hawaii, Alaska, S. America, Scotland, Washington state and Australia as of 2012.

Duckies have been found in Hawaii, Alaska, S. America, Scotland, Washington state and Australia as of 2012. Duckies have been found in Hawaii, Alaska, S. America, Scotland, Washington state and Australia as of 2012. We learned that it takes 3 years to complete one circuit of the North Pacific Gyre flow in the

More information

OIMB GK12 CURRICULUM

OIMB GK12 CURRICULUM 2 nd Grade 45 minutes SAND DUNES Oregon Science Content Standards: 2.1 Structure and Function: Living and non-living things vary throughout the natural world. 2.2 Interaction and Change: Living and non-living

More information

There are many different kinds of beaches which are generally characterized by the dominance of waves, tides, rivers and currents, and in particular

There are many different kinds of beaches which are generally characterized by the dominance of waves, tides, rivers and currents, and in particular Fig. 11-11, p. 253 There are many different kinds of beaches which are generally characterized by the dominance of waves, tides, rivers and currents, and in particular differ by the amount of energy, which

More information

OCEAN WAVES NAME. I. Introduction

OCEAN WAVES NAME. I. Introduction NAME OCEAN WAVES I. Introduction The physical definition of a wave is a disturbance that transmits energy from one place to another. In the open ocean waves are formed when wis blowing across the water

More information

Unit VI Detecting Coastal Change with Lasers. Modern Coastal Studies

Unit VI Detecting Coastal Change with Lasers. Modern Coastal Studies Unit VI Detecting Coastal Change with Lasers On the cutting edge Barrier Islands provide natural protection against the destructive wind, waves, and tides that wash the shores of coastal communities. As

More information

3/9/2013. Build house on cliff for a view of the ocean - be one with said view Pearson Education, Inc. Shorelines: summary in haiku form

3/9/2013. Build house on cliff for a view of the ocean - be one with said view Pearson Education, Inc. Shorelines: summary in haiku form Introduction to Environmental Geology, 5e Edward A. Keller Shorelines: summary in haiku form Chapter 11 Coastal Processes Lecture Presentation prepared by X. Mara Chen, Salisbury University Build house

More information

Tidal energy is produced by the surge of ocean waters during the rise and fall of tides. Tidal energy is a renewable source of energy.

Tidal energy is produced by the surge of ocean waters during the rise and fall of tides. Tidal energy is a renewable source of energy. Encyclopedic Entry For Educator tidal energy For the complete encyclopedic entry with media resources, visit: http://www.connectenergyed.org/education/encyclopedia/tidal-energy/ Tidal energy is produced

More information

Tidal Energy. Definition of Tidal Energy. Tidal energy is energy derived from the movement of the ocean tides.

Tidal Energy. Definition of Tidal Energy. Tidal energy is energy derived from the movement of the ocean tides. Tidal Energy Definition of Tidal Energy Tidal energy is energy derived from the movement of the ocean tides. Water has mass. When it moves, it has kinetic energy which can be harnessed. Kinetic energy

More information

1.5 How do ocean waves and currents change the face of coastal areas? (Chapter 3)

1.5 How do ocean waves and currents change the face of coastal areas? (Chapter 3) 1.5 How do ocean waves and currents change the face of coastal areas? (Chapter 3) 1. Hydraulic Action/Pressure - air being forced into crack in rocks. 2. Corrosion (Solution) Minerals such as calcium carbonate

More information

Engineering Design Challenge. Mapping the Ocean Floor

Engineering Design Challenge. Mapping the Ocean Floor Engineering Design Challenge Project Title: Project Source: Project Submitter: Mapping the Ocean Floor NOAA, http://tinyurl.com/boydlek STEM Improvement Lesson Development Team Grade Level/Subject: Math,

More information

/50. Physical Geology Shorelines

/50. Physical Geology Shorelines Physical Geology Shorelines Multiple Guess: (You know the drill 2 points each) 1. The path of movement of a water particle in a wave at sea is 1. circular 2. horizontal 3. vertical 4. elliptical 5. none

More information

Ch19&21 Test. Multiple Choice Identify the choice that best completes the statement or answers the question.

Ch19&21 Test. Multiple Choice Identify the choice that best completes the statement or answers the question. Ch19&21 Test Multiple Choice Identify the choice that best completes the statement or answers the question. 1. A large body of saline water that may be surrounded by land is a(n) a. submersible. c. global

More information

ALTERNATIVES FOR COASTAL STORM DAMAGE MITIGATION AND FUNCTIONAL DESIGN OF COASTAL STRUCTURES

ALTERNATIVES FOR COASTAL STORM DAMAGE MITIGATION AND FUNCTIONAL DESIGN OF COASTAL STRUCTURES The University of the West Indies Organization of American States PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT PROGRAMME: COASTAL INFRASTRUCTURE DESIGN, CONSTRUCTION AND MAINTENANCE A COURSE IN COASTAL DEFENSE SYSTEMS I CHAPTER

More information

What Causes Weather Patterns?

What Causes Weather Patterns? What Causes Weather Patterns? INVESTlGATlON: Water on the Move If you ve ever been soaked in a rainstorm or even surprised by a thundershower in the desert, you know that water is a big part of the weather.

More information

SURFACE CURRENTS AND TIDES

SURFACE CURRENTS AND TIDES NAME SURFACE CURRENTS AND TIDES I. Origin of surface currents Surface currents arise due to the interaction of the prevailing wis a the ocean surface. Hence the surface wi pattern (Figure 1) plays a key

More information