FIT & WEAR TESTING 1. INTRODUCTION:

Transcription

1 HTSCG Limited Section 3: COMMERCIALIZATION Annex II: FIT & WEAR TESTING 1. INTRODUCTION: This Annex outlines the procedures for Fit and Wear Testing. 2. PURPOSE: Fit and Wear Testing are both important faces of the development and commercialization processes. Fit and wear tests are done to ensure that the shoes are made according to the Customer s fitting standards. Fit and wear testing do not take place only in development and commercialization it is an ongoing process that also takes place during manufacturing. 3. TYPES OF SHOES: Fit and Wear Testing applies to all the categories of shoes we make for the Customer, Outdoor, Court, Athletic, Golf, Boot, etc. The principle is the same for any shoe. Depending on the sport played, the mechanics included in the construction of the shoe become more relevant and important for shoes requiring high performance, such as running shoes. For this reason we will discuss how fit and wear testing applies to running shoes. 4. KNOW YOUR FEET: To have a good fit and wear test session, we must select the tester to make sure that his or her feet are a good match for the type of shoe being fitted and wear tested. Everyone is unique, and there is no single perfect shoe, but if the wearer has a serious degree of underpronation, the shoe we want the fitter to fit or wear test may not be the right shoe for him or her. 5. PRONATION: We have already discussed in detail pronation in Annex X, Pronation and Under-pronation; to Section 5, Quality Control. We will briefly mention here how they relate to fit and wear testing. Pronation is the term used to describe the normal motion of the foot rolling slightly inward when the foot strikes the ground. Pronation is essential to shock absorption and forward propulsion. It is when one overpronates or underpronates that one needs to be careful about the type of shoes to select. There are three types or degrees of pronation, See Figures 1 through 3, below: Neutral Pronation Underpronation Overpronation 1 of 12

2 DEGREES OF PRONATIONS Neutral Pronation Underpronation Overpronation Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3 5. ARCH: The arch of the foot plays a major role in pronation and will correspond to the degree of pronation one is most likely to experience. There are three different types of arches. See Figure 4 through 6, below: Normal Flat High TYPES OF ARCHES Normal Arch Neutral Pronation High Arch Underpronation Flat Arch Overpronation Figure 4 Figure 5 2 of 12 Figure 6

3 a. Normal Arch: The most common arch type, the Normal Arch, leaves a wet print with a flare and a broad band connecting the heel and the forefoot. This foot type is a neutral pronator and rolls inward slightly to absorb shock. If you have a normal arch, you re considered bio-mechanically efficient and don t need motion control features. The best part about having a normal arch is that you have more freedom when picking a running shoe. b. Flat Arch: If you see a complete or nearly complete imprint, then you have a Flat Arch. This type of foot is associated with overpronation or an excessive inward roll after heel strike. The flatter the arch, the more support and motion control you need. You ll need shoes with firm midsoles, flatter soles and pronation-control features. Steer clear of highly-cushioned shoes that lack stability features. c. High Arch: The least common arch type, the High Arch, will produce an imprint showing the heel and forefoot connected by only a thin band. This foot type usually doesn t absorb shock well because it rolls outward or underpronates. This is also known as supination. 6. WET FOOT TEST: An easy way to determine one s arch type is the Wet Foot Test. This can easily be done by following the steps below: Wet bottom of feet. Step on concrete, a paper towel, or any surface that will show the imprint of the wet foot. Match the imprint to one of the arch s figures above and determine the degree of pronation. 7. THE SHOE FOR YOU: Shoes used by people with a normal arch will have sole worn equally on both sides. See Figure 7, to the right. Outsole is worn equally on both sides. 3 of 12 Figure 7

4 Shoes used by people with a high arch will have sole with excessive wear on the outside. See Figure 8, to the right. Outsole shows excessive wear on the outside. Figure 8 Shoes used by people with a flat arch will have sole with excessive wear on the inside. See Figure 9, to the right Outsole shows excessive wear on the inside. Figure 9 NOTE: All running shoes are not created equal. The arch type and degree of pronation will dictate the category to wear: Cushion Stability Motion control 4 of 12

5 a. Neutral Pronation: Cushion shoes are the most flexible and encourage natural pronation, with added cushioning and extra shock absorption. These shoes do not have stability or motion control features. Or, Stability Shoes have light support features on the medial side and well-cushioned midsoles to help guide mild-to-moderate Overpronation. Runners with a normal arch can also benefit from light stability features. b. Underpronation: Cushion shoes are the most flexible and encourage pronation. They incorporate extra cushioning and shock absorption, and do not have stability motion control features. c. Overpronation: Stability shoes have light support features on the medial side and well-cushioned midsoles to help guide mild-to-moderate Overpronation. Or, Motion Control shoes incorporate extra stability features on the medial side to help control severe Overpronation. Runners with a severe flat arch are well suited for these types of shoes. Running shoes are made to be flexible and light weight with cushioning to help absorb shock. Some runners benefit from extra cushioning, support, and stability. Figure 10 Trail running shoes have better traction and are recommended for use on rocky, varied terrain and for off-road running, walking and light hiking. Figure 11 Cross training shoes are the most versatile athletic shoe, but aren t recommended for distance running. Designed for low-impact activities that require lateral support, they re excellent for the gym, aerobics or step class, etc. Figure 12 5 of 12

6 Court shoes are designed with better traction for tennis and basketball. The sole is sewn to the upper for durability and support. Great for high-impact, side to side motion. Figure 13 Walking shoes are heavier and less flexible than running shoes, usually with leather uppers for easy cleaning. Figure 14 Hiking Shoes are heavier, less flexible, and stiffer. They are usually made with leather for long durability. Many are waterproof shoes. Figure 15 NOTE: While it s beneficial to walk in a running shoe, never run in a walking shoe. It is the responsibility of the QC assigned in the factory to periodically fit shoes of his or her size when a new order is started in the Assembly section. The QC should fit once in the morning and once in the afternoon. The purpose of this quick fit in the Assembling section is to ensure that the workers on the assembly line are processing the shoes according to established manufacturing standards and are not over lasting the shoes. 6 of 12

7 8. FIT & WEAR TEST PROGRAM: As of July, 2009, the Hi-Tec Sports Fit Test Program stated in this document is to be followed 100% by all HTSCG factories across Asia. This is to ensure that we are following the correct process across all Asian regions and continue to run an efficient and effective program that provides the factories with the information they need to make sure that our Customer s shoes are of the best quality during the product creation process. a. Goals: The below goals are very simple in stature and should instantly help the fit testing program in regards to: (1). Receiving the Correct Size, Style, and Gender of a Model. (2). Streamlining information from the factory to Hi-Tec and back. (3). Quick Turnaround of Feedback to Factories. (4). Keep a records file of all models tested for historical reference. (5). A proper commitment to a good fit test program and improving the overall quality of comfort in our shoes. b. Key Items: There are 7 key items to the Fit & Wear Test Program that we need to address to make it a success. They are as follows: (1). Levels / Tiers of models tested. (2). Stages shoes will be tested. (3). Feedback of test s to Factories. (4). Sizes to be tested. (5). Correct sizing on Hangtags. (6). CFM Shoe testing. (7). Shipping information. c. Levels / Tiers of Models Tested: (1). In order to streamline the process and improve the fit testing process, we must first address that every model has a different level or tier of construction and must be identified accordingly to each season. For example, an existing shoe that is color up for the next season would be seen as Tier 4 level product for testing 7 of 12

8 and may not need a formal test; where as a Tier 1 level product would be for example, a product incorporating a sophisticated technology or new last. (2). The purpose of this tier system is to identify which models need more focus on testing than others. Although every shoe must have equal focus on construction, it gives the factory a better idea of what needs special attention in the production process. The tier levels are to be identified after the conclusion of the Proto 2 meeting of that particular season. (3). As mentioned above, the tiers would be identified according to the construction of the model: Tier 1: New Upper on New Bottom with new Features, or New Last. Tier 2: New Upper on New Bottom. Tier 3: New Upper on Existing Bottom. Tier 4: Color or Material Up to Pattern. d. Tech Stages Shoes will be Tested: Although shoes of all levels will always be randomly tested or picked out for testing no matter what stage the shoe is in, we always need to improve the overall efficiency of the Fit Test Program. FIT TESTING: a. Here is a snapshot of the Stages Shoes to be tested: (1). Proto 2 Fit Trails of Samples (2). Line Close (Tech 1) (3). Sample Size Fit Test (Tech 2) (4). Extreme Size Fit Test (Tech 3) (5). Production Trial * (Tech 4) b. Production Trial Models of a Tier 1 & 2 level may need a Fit Test based on Hi-Tec Category Director s direction. c. The first set of testing will occur at Proto 2 Hi-Tec category Directors have confirmed what models will be going forward for a particular season. The purpose of the Proto 2 fit trial is to start making the necessary adjustments to achieve perfect fit during the 8 of 12

9 development process. The fit trials will occur right after the Proto 2 meeting and feedback sent within a week s time. d. The first fit test report will take place after the Line Close meeting. The actual Line Close Sample will be tested. Feedback will immediately be sent back to the factories so they can apply any necessary changes for the Global Launch and Sales Samples. If the Line Close sample quality is not acceptable for testing, the factory will have to remake and send a sample immediately for approval as an approved fit remark must take effect on the sales samples. NOTE: The turnaround time of feedback of the fit test shoes is 2 weeks. WEAR TESTING: a. After the Line Close meeting, certain styles (primarily from a Tier 1 or 2 Level) will be chosen to go through extensive wear testing. The Category Director will order additional 4 pairs with the Bulk Sales Samples coinciding with the material purchases. These shoes will have a special hang tag applied as well as clear packaging identification so there is no risk of mixing these shoes with sales samples. A wear test Form must also be included in the package. NOTE: Upon receipt of the shoes, feedback to the factories will take place 30 days after receipt. b. Feedback of Test s to Factories: As mentioned in the previous page, based on the arrival of samples, the goal is to send out Test Reports for Fit Testing in two weeks and for Wear testing in 30 days. The information will be sent on the Hi-Tec Test Report via to the factory that is pending a result. c. Sizes to be Fit Tested: Currently, we are receiving different sizes from all factories when it comes to fit testing Hi-Tec shoes. This needs to stop immediately. Please make sure that you follow these guidelines from this point forward as this is to reflect all Hi- Tec s footwear categories. We will not fit test the shoes if the below is not followed 100%: Sample Size Fit Test: Men s: USA 9 Women s: USA 7 Junior s: USA 4 Children s: USA 13 Extreme Size Fit Test: Men s: USA 8, 9, 10, & 12 9 of 12

10 Women s: USA 6, 7, 8, & 10 Junior s: USA 3 & 4 Children s USA 11 & 13 Production Trial Fit Test: Men s: USA 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, & 13 Women s: USA 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, & 10 Junior s: USA 2, 3, 4, 5, & 6 Children s: USA 10, 11, 12, & 13 d. Correct Sizing on Hang Tags: We receive too many test shoes with the incorrect hangtag information. As we now have an official Hi-Tec hangtag being used, we must use this format when sending fit test samples back for approval. The following must be indicated on the hangtag, and note the last line of the hangtag. Se Figure 16, below: FIT TEST HANGTAG Sample Type: Sample Size Fit Test Sample Finished: January Model Name: Lava Run Category: Outdoor HT Reference #: HU-RO A Colour: White/Black/Red Season: SS 2006 Last/Size/gender: HT-87 / 8UK = 9US men Figure 15 NOTE: The last line must indicate the sizes in US. Also, you must list the Factory that has made the shoes on the back of the hangtag. e. Confirmation Shoe Testing: There has been great debate to the value of the CFM shoe being tested as some view the CFM shoe more for the material confirmation and overall 10 of 12

11 look of quality rather than the fit. However, as some categories do fit test the CFM shoes, we do need to address the situation. f. Authority: In the end, the Confirmation Shoe does represent what should be representing out of production. In order to maximize efficiency, any model that the Category Director has deemed a Tier 3 or Tier 4 level of testing may require the Confirmation Shoe to be tested. However, the Category Director does uphold the right to formally choose any model at a Confirmation Shoe stage and fit test them if the person has some legitimate concerns. 9. FITTING TIPS: In order to get accurate feedback from the fit and wear testers, here are some tips to ensure that we are providing a proper fit for the selected testers: Testers must have their feet measured on a Brannock Device. This will determine if the test specimen is a good fit for the tester. Shoes should be fitted while wearing a medium weight wool sock. Heavy duty boots and winter boots should be fitted with the tester wearing heavy weight wool socks. There should be enough room in the toe box for the tester to wiggle toes. There should be ¼ of an inch between the longest toe and the end of the shoe. This measurement must be taken while the fitter is standing, not sitting. The fitter must always fit both feet and not just the right or the left. Fitters with feet which are not similar in length, width, and arch, usually do not make good fitters. 10. REFERENCES: The following reference is attached to this Annex: Fit and Wear Test Program: Appendix I Fit and Wear Test Report: Appendix II 11. SUMMARY: In summary remember that: Fit and wear tests are done to ensure that the shoes are made according to the Customer s fitting standards. Fit and wear testing do not take place only in development and commercialization it is an ongoing process that also takes place during manufacturing. 11 of 12

12 To have a good fit and wear test session, we must select the tester to make sure that his or her feet are appropriate for the type of shoe being fitted and wear tested. Everyone is unique, and there is no single perfect shoe, but if the wearer has a serious degree of underpronation, the shoe we want the fitter to fit or wear test may not be the right shoe for him or her. Pronation is the term used to describe the normal motion of the foot rolling slightly inward when the foot strikes the ground. Pronation is essential to shock absorption and forward propulsion. It is when one overpronates or underpronates that one needs to be careful about the type of shoes to select. There are three different types of arches, Normal, Flat, and High. There are 7 key items to the Fit & Wear Test Program that we need to address to make it a success. They are as follows: Levels / Tiers of models tested. Stages Shoes will be tested. Feedback of test s to Factories. Sizes to be tested. Correct sizing on hangtags. CFM Shoe testing. Shipping information. As mentioned above, the tiers would be identified according to the construction of the model: Tier 1: New Upper on New Bottom with new Features, or New Last. Tier 2: New Upper on New Bottom. Tier 3: New Upper on Existing Bottom. Tier 4: Color or Material Up to Pattern. Sample Sizes to be fitted and wear tested include: Men s: USA 9 Women s: USA 7 Junior s: USA 4 Children s: USA 13 Make sure the information on the hangtag is correct. 12 of 12