Sunfish Pond. Main Area. edition 1.1

Transcription

1 Sunfish Pond Main Area edition 1.1

2 Acknowledgment of Risk Climbing is a very dangerous sport where you may be seriously injured. The information contained in this document is subjective and based entirely on opinions. The information may be incorrect or misleading. Your safety depends on your own good judgment. Take all necessary precautions and evaluate your abilities honestly before attempting a climb described in the document. If you have any doubts, seek professional instruction and training. The author expressly disclaim any and all warranties, express or implied, including, but not limited to implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose. The authors disclaim any and all representations and warranties regarding this guide, the accuracy and reliability of the information contained in this guide, and the results of your use hereof. You use of this guide indicates your assumption of all risks associated with the use of this guide and is an acknowledgment of your own sole responsibility for your climbing safety. NORTHERN PA BOULDERING - SUNFISH POND / MAIN AREA 2

3 Preface The Northern Pennsylvania bouldering experience can be described many ways. To me, I value remote wild that most of these areas are situated. Much of the bouldering is found on the mountain tops, so often times beautiful views come with the climbing experience. The rock quality can be exquisite and the problems range from off vertical technical climbs to near horizontal burly roof climbs. There is something for everyone. WHEN TO CLIMB Any time is good to climb in the region, winter days are possible if you have either 4wd or a daring attitude. The roads do not see winter maintenance but they are passable. Being the boulders are on State Game Lands (SGL), make sure you wear hunters orange during the appropriate months. People do hunt out regularly out here. AMENITIES There really is not much out here the closest town with gas and a store is in Canton 11 miles west on 414. There also is a gas station in Monroeton 15 miles east on 414. At the bottom of Leroy Mountain Rd is a small store with everything from expired hand warmers to local pizza. CAMPING Camping is prohibited on State Games Lands, though tent camping is available at Sunfish Pond park. Please check with Bradford County Parks for more details. NORTHERN PA BOULDERING - SUNFISH POND / MAIN AREA 3

4 STAR SYSTEM The star system provided is a subjective opinion of the quality of the boulder problem. It is based on several things. Quality of the line, aesthetics, purity, history, landing quality, rock quality, etc. 5 stars indicated an amazing boulder problem that is a must do classic on perfect rock, would be considered a classic anywhere in the world. These are rare. On the other end of the scale if there is one or no star the climb might be either: poor, contrived, bad rock, etc. None the less still climbable. ETHICS - LEAVE NO TRACE This means an obsessive effort to erase any sign of human presence among the boulders. These signs include: Chalk: A good ethical norm is to always leave the boulders free of tickmarks, excessive concentrations of chalk on holds, and chalk spills. Chalk is a tool and should be used as such, sparingly and appropriately. Trash and Litter: This should be no-brainer. Pick it all up, including anything you see on the way in and out and put it in the small plastic bag you brought for the purpose. Tape does not just disappear by itself and scraps of food are harmful to wildlife. Chalk spills are litter. Chipping and Brushing: Altering holds so you can climb a problem is called chipping. Glueing holds is unnecessary; if the hold breaks, it breaks. End of story. Brushing to remove lichen, dirt, etc., needs to be thought through carefully. It should be done with low-impact nylon if at all possible and kept to a minimum. If the problem is worthy, the subsequent traffic will clean it up. There is no sense in tearing out moss and lichen for mediocre problems. Using metal brushes on rock is generally speaking a very bad idea. Don t you dare use a blowtorch! NORTHERN PA BOULDERING - SUNFISH POND / MAIN AREA 4

5 Human waste: Empty yourself as much as possible before hitting the trail. Shitting in the woods even relatively distant from the boulders is no longer low-impact in today s bouldering environment. Do not pee in caves or under steep overhangs. GRADES Everyone knows about grades, grades are established to let the climber know how difficult the boulder might be. Grades are based on consensus so what is hard for one may be easy for another, vise versa. Standard grading has been abandoned here for many reasons. Below is a quick reference on the difficulty. If you really wanna know... go to boulderproblems.com and see what others think! E = v0 - v3 M = v4 - v7 H = v8 - v11 HH = v12+ P = project or undone +/- = a problem nearing the next or previous level Final note: This area is very young for climbing. In fact the whole region is. Be on your best behavior and manners, as many local residents have probably never been exposed to rock climbing and don t have an opinion made yet. Please don t give them a reason to have a negative one. At the moment climbing is allowed in PA State Game Lands. If you encounter a hunter or trapper be kind, keep a positive attitude when out at the boulders and remember everyone is entitled to the use of this land. NORTHERN PA BOULDERING - SUNFISH POND / MAIN AREA 5

6 Area Overview ALL YEAR ACCESS 34 PROBLEMS 5-10 MINUTE APPROACH INTRODUCTION The Main Area at Sunfish Pond offers some amazing bouldering just a short walk from the road. Follow heard path to the Tailspin boulder. The rest of the boulders are surrounding this large boulder. The rock is of great quality. Fine texture, grippy sandstone with little to no contaminants, arguably some of the best stone in the region. The climbing on these boulders tends to be physical so bring your fitness. DIRECTIONS To get to Sunfish Pond travel to LeRoy, PA and turn on to LeRoy Mountain Road (toward Sunfish Pond County Park). Follow this dirt road until you reach a Y in the road and turn right to go to the Sunfish Pond Park (There will be signs). Once you get to another Y in the road take the dirt road on the right to get to gate. Left would take you into the Sunfish Pond Park. Hike the road past the gate for about 5 mins looking to the right for a cairn and herd-path after the dip in the road. Follow the faint herd path to the boulders. Should be a couple minutes hike until the boulders. During the hunting season the gate will be open allowing you to drive right to the herd path. Park on the right side of the road and make sure there is enough room to drive past. NORTHERN PA BOULDERING - SUNFISH POND / MAIN AREA 6

7 NORTHERN PA BOULDERING - SUNFISH POND / MAIN AREA 7

8 E C D

9 TO ROAD A B B APPROACH NOTES: A short walk past the gamelands gate and parking lot, keep your eye on the right for a herd path that enters the forest after the dip in the road. From entering the forest it should be less than 2 minutes until the Tailspin Boulder.

10 A: Goldfish Boulder

11 A: Goldfish Boulder 1 Echo Base v3 Start on crimps and climb straight up. Might be confusing of where it begins, do your best! 2 The Wookie v4 E Sds on a good edge and the sloper pocket. Climb up and finish as Echo Base. 3 Brontosaurus v1 Start on undercling pocket and climb up and right to jugs. Giant folks might find this pointless. 4 Accordion v5 EE Start on the left arete and right hand sidepull. A tricky sequence unlocks this fun compression problem. Lots of moves for such a short block! 5 Goldfish v3 EE Start with a side pull and arete, climb the right arete and seam to a tricky dyno topout. Taller folks can make this static. NORTHERN PA BOULDERING - SUNFISH POND / MAIN AREA 11

12 NORTHERN PA BOULDERING - SUNFISH POND / MAIN AREA 12 B: Tailspin Boulder

13 B: Tailspin Boulder 1 D.A.B. v8 EE Sds down on the top level block with feet dangling start on the lowest reachable holds; good sidepull and right hand edge under roof. Climb the short and low arete. Pretty good for a dirt burglar. 2 Notorious D.A.B. v10 EE Start as Headbanger finish as D.A.B. Hard, don t DAB! 3 Shortbread v4 E Sds the under at the top of the roof on a slopey edge a few feet from the arete finish on D.A.B., strangely popular. 4 Tailspin v9 EEEE Start matched at the obvious black crimp rail, climb right and up out the roof with tricky moves to the technical slab topout. This is THE line of the area. Beautiful and unique. Can also be done from a sit, but detracts quality. 5 Duck Tails v3 EEE Start the same as Tailspin but, instead of climbing out the roof traverse right and finish on Dark Wing. Can also be done from a sit to add difficulty and moves it into the M+ range. 6 Dark Wing v1 E Climb the interesting face over the small pit. A sds can be done for and additional grovel and v3 take away. NORTHERN PA BOULDERING - SUNFISH POND / MAIN AREA 13

14 7 8 9 q w NORTHERN PA BOULDERING - SUNFISH POND / MAIN AREA 14 B: Tailspin Boulder

15 B: Tailspin Boulder 7 Sloppy Feet v0 Follow the seam from a stand on the far left to the right arete and topout. Chris Chilas did this in sanuks for the cleaning beta. 8 Rescue Rangers v1 EEE Start on a good edge at head height and climb straight up. Can feel scary up there. 9 Chip & Dale v1 Sds under the small roof and climb crimps up the slab. Smaller folks can sandbag taller folks with a lower start. q Head Banger v1 E Start before the big wedged stone on a big undercling. Traverse left and finish as Chip & Dale. Fun movement, shitty everything else. w Con Huevos v3 EE Climb the tall face from crimps. Sketchy but safely padded and spotted. As the name implies. NORTHERN PA BOULDERING - SUNFISH POND / MAIN AREA 15

16 1 NORTHERN PA BOULDERING - SUNFISH POND / MAIN AREA 16 C: Le Roy Boulder

17 C: Le Roy Boulder 1 Le Roy aka The King v8 EE Start on a right hand crimp and the arete. Squeeze block and make a big power move to the lip and mantle. Starting squeezing the block and toe hooked is the incomplete line and a shameful circus trick. NORTHERN PA BOULDERING - SUNFISH POND / MAIN AREA 17

18 NORTHERN PA BOULDERING - SUNFISH POND / MAIN AREA 18 D: Libations Boulder

19 D: Libations Boulder 1 Dead Homies v3 E Climb the left arete with sidepulls, low pedestal block OFF! 2 Libations v7 EEE Start on the right side of the boulder right hand on the slopey arete and left hand sidepull. Make one very hard move to the left arete and then finish as Dead Homies. Can be done from a sit for a H- variation and a star in quality. 3 Libations Dyno v4 Start with the triangle block and sidepull, toss to the top and mantle. Can be started as Libations SDS for extra mario coins. 4 Strange Vibrations v8 EE From a sds at the triangle pinch, climb up and right following the shelf to the back of the boulder topout at the end. Cruxy. 5 Genuine Imitation v3 From a sds on poor crimps make a long lockoff move to the lip and topout. Not recommended but available. 6 C.C.C. v5 Shamefully scrunch up into the small overhang. Make sad moves to victory. A.k.a. Chris Choice Choss. More fun when no one is looking. NORTHERN PA BOULDERING - SUNFISH POND / MAIN AREA 19

20 NORTHERN PA BOULDERING - SUNFISH POND / MAIN AREA 20 E: The Cave

21 E: The Cave 1 Bail Bondsman v2 EE Sds on a big jug at the far left side of the roof climb straight up on good holds to finishing on a perched block. Kinda dabby on feet at first low block on. 2 Trials of the Past v7 EEE Start as Bail Bondsman and climb the roof out and left on incut crimps finish on the big shelf and mantle like Word is Bond. 3 Chinese Water Torture 10+/- EEE Start as Word as Bond and climb left on crimps to link up to Trials of the Past. Currently most difficult in the region. 4 Word is Bond v3 EEEE Start on a big jug in the back of the roof and climb left with big move on crimps topout via the big shelf. 5 Vagabond v7 EEEE Start as Word is Bond but once at jug climb right to finish on Tree Line. Incredibly beautiful traverse line. Reverse problem finishing on Word is Bond is Desperate Housewives, and is a grade easier and a star less. NORTHERN PA BOULDERING - SUNFISH POND / MAIN AREA 21

22 q NORTHERN PA BOULDERING - SUNFISH POND / MAIN AREA 22 E: The Cave

23 E: The Cave 6 James Bond v2 Start below crimps on broken mini jugs. Move out via small crimps and climb right and finish as Tree Line. Also goes direct on crimps at M. 7 Tree Line v0 E Start low on large holds and climb the break up and left. Low starts are possible but often wet. 8 Chad v2 EE Start as Tree Line and climb up and right to finish via jugs to the left of Heather. 9 Heather v2 EE Climb the face to the between Tree Line and Rising Sun. It is often noted that everyone wants to do Heather. q Rising Sun v1 EEEE Climb the easy face on beautiful sculpted edges to the left of the tree growing into the rock. Careful of that tree up there! NORTHERN PA BOULDERING - SUNFISH POND / MAIN AREA 23

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